Black currant planting and care in the open field for beginners

Description and varieties

Currant is a berry shrub from the gooseberry family, of medium height (20-40 cm) with characteristic leaves. The currant belongs to a fast-growing shrub and begins to bear fruit a year after planting.

Its life span is 20 years for red currants, 15 years for black currants, however, the shrub is able to multiply rapidly. The main types of currants are black and red, which differ in the color of the berries and the characteristic smell inherent in black currants, due to the content of essential oils in it. However, there are other varieties: yellow currant, bred on the American continent, white currant and many crossed species.

Breeders have bred up to 700 species of various varieties of berries that are resistant to pests and diseases, resistance to powdery mildew, spotting, spring frost resistance and increased productivity, which allows it to be cultivated in various regions of the Russian Federation.

Currant, has a lot of useful qualities, which determines the use of the berry itself, its leaves, twigs for:

1. Improving the elasticity of the vascular system.
2. Reducing the concentration of sugar in the blood.
3. Treatment of dermatitis and eye diseases.
4. Therapy for atherosclerosis, lowering blood pressure; increasing the strength of the capillaries of the circulatory system.
5. Treating sore throats and coughs.
6. Therapy for colds and infectious diseases.
7. Treatment of inflammation in the urinary tract area and as a diuretic.

How to properly plant currants in the open field

In general, the shrub is quite unpretentious to growing conditions, however, in order to obtain a high yield with the best vitamin and nutritional characteristics, a number of rules must be observed.

The shrub is sensitive to the water-air regime of growth, since the length of its roots, up to 50 cm, is located in the upper layer of the soil and cannot consume moisture from the deep layers of the soil. This must be taken into account when choosing a place for planting, since too wet soil is a dangerous factor, and too dry requires frequent watering.

1. Site selection and soil preparation

The best conditions for growing currants is considered to be a well-lit area of ​​soil, representing a lowland, slope or hill with an average degree of moisture. The degree of illumination is determined by a measure of how long during the day the currants are exposed to direct sunlight.

The duration of the illumination of the shrub by the sun's rays should be at least half a day for black currants; for red - at least 2/3 of the day.

The measure of the moisture content of the site is assessed by the level of groundwater in a nearby well, which should not be higher than 0.5-1 m. The requirements for the acidity of the soil are also clearly regulated; soils of a neutral and slightly acidic reaction are chosen for it. It is best to place currants in a place of some elevation of the relief, containing up to 0.5 m of a fertile layer with protection from both direct exposure to wind currents and from stagnant air.

2. Timing of boarding

The shrub can be planted in the spring from the onset of warmth to the period of bud opening with cuttings or grown cuttings and in autumn in September-October. The autumn planting method is considered the best, since when using it, the best conditions are created for the plant to survive and emerge with the beginning of spring in the phase of rapid development.

3. Treatment and preparation of soil

It is better to plant shrubs with a distance of 1 m from neighboring bushes and at a distance of 1.5-2 m and 3-4 m from other shrubs and fruit trees. The required number of shrubs for planting is determined from the condition that, with normal care, currants give from 2 to 3 kg per bush.

4. Soil for currants and fertilizers

As a planting material, it is better to choose seedlings 15-20 cm long with a well-branched root system, no signs of pests and diseases. The dimensions of the pit for planting are 40 * 40 * 40 cm, it is better to dig up the pit either a few weeks before planting or in the fall of the previous year to create the necessary soil sediment.

It is necessary to prepare two layers of soil for planting a bush:

1. The first consists of earth dug out of a pit, mixed with peat, compost or fertilizers with the addition of small doses of mineral additives and has a high biological value; serves to feed the roots, located below them in level.
2. The second also consists of a fertile layer of soil removed from the pit without fertilizers.

5. The process of planting in open ground

The shrub, holding with one hand, is placed over the first layer of soil, so that the roots feel free. Further, sprinkle with a second layer of soil, given that the bush should protrude above the surface. The planted bush is watered abundantly with water, even if planting is done on a rainy day.

Around the planted bush, a near-stem circle is formed, with a diameter of 40-50 cm, a layer of mulch, peat or sawdust is applied, without affecting the planting itself.

After planting, the currant bush is pruned to a level of 7 cm above the ground. This measure is necessary to bring the aerial part of the plant into conformity with the root system.

Currant care 1. Watering

The shrub is characterized by a fairly high moisture consumption, for which it competes, spending the energy necessary to form the crop. For adult shrubs, the maximum moisture consumption occurs during the growth of shoots, during the period of berry formation (June) and after harvesting to store moisture for the formation of the next harvest (September).

It is important to provide a sufficient amount of moisture during this period, since otherwise the berries will be small, and unripe berries will shatter.

To reduce the effect of drought periods on currants, it is necessary to maintain it by watering with 1.5-2 buckets of water per bush. It is also necessary to carry out measures to retain moisture in the soil, for which a layer of mulch, up to 10 cm thick, consisting of fallen leaves, weeds, finely chopped thin twigs, is introduced around the circumference under the shrub.

2. Top dressing

In the case of correct planting of the shrub, fertilizing in the form of fertilizers is not required for several years. Further nutrition is carried out by introducing 4-5 kg ​​of fertilizers or peat and 40 g of mineral fertilizers of a complex composition, superphosphate (100-150 g) and calcium chloride (30-40 g) under a bush in early spring or autumn before loosening.

In the absence of plant nutrition, the berries become small over time and contain fewer nutrients.

3. Pruning currants

The best time for pruning a shrub is considered to be the period of late autumn, after leaf fall, when sick and damaged shoots are clearly visible. Carrying out pruning for currant bushes begins with the removal of old and damaged shoots at ground level with a covering with a special decoction.

The next step in pruning is to remove young, poorly developed or disease-damaged branches. Further, the shrub is diluted by removing from 15 to 30% of shoots of various ages to direct moisture and nutrients not to the growth of young branches, but to the formation of a crop on mature cuttings. Ideally, after pruning, the bush should represent 12-15 healthy shoots of various ages.

When pruning, it must be borne in mind that excessive spreading of the bush is inconvenient and causes contamination of the berries during bad weather. To give the plantation a well-groomed and cultured look, props are made, trellises and stretched twine are used. However, the "matched" bush should not be overly tightened to exclude damage to the branches and disruption of sap flow.

4. Transplant

The transplant is carried out in cases of the need to rejuvenate the currant, the lack of necessary nutrients at the site of the previous growth for the growth and development of the plantation, the need to plant rooted young shoots, cuttings or cuttings. The rules for making a transplant in terms of time, choice of soil, watering and feeding do not differ from performing a normal planting.

5. Diseases and pests

1. American powdery mildew, which poses a danger to young leaves and shoots of black currant, manifests itself in the appearance of white blooms on their surface, the leaves weaken, darken and deform. Treatment is carried out by removing and burning the affected leaves and shoots and applying autumn Topaz.
2. Anthracosis, septoriasis, represent two types of a disease caused by the action of a fungus, as a result of which spots of dark and brown colors are formed on the surface of the leaves, which later turn into a brown shade. The affected shrub is more susceptible to frost, is characterized by a decrease in yield and early leaf fall. Treatment is carried out by removing the leaves with embedding in the soil, the plant before bud break, before and after flowering, it is recommended to treat with preparations based on copper.
3. Terry, manifests itself in the deformation of young leaves, their acquisition of an elongated shape with a further deterioration in the appearance of flowers, the appearance of terry and the death of a shrub. The affected shrub must be dug up and burned.
4. A kidney mite manifests itself in a strong swelling of the buds, which, together with the adjacent branches, are removed and burned before the shrub leaves the budding stage. The remaining bush before and immediately after flowering is sprayed with Aktellik, if there is no effect, the bush must be dug up and burned.
5. Glass currant damages currant branches, which outwardly manifests itself in their lethargy, drying out and their increased fragility. It is possible to diagnose damage to the currant by the glass by examining the cross-section of the branch. In case of damage, there are quite wide passages-voids of a dark color on it. After the detection of the disease, all affected shoots are removed and burned, after flowering, the shrub is processed by Aktellik.
6. Gooseberry shoot aphid is manifested in the fact that aphid larvae born during the period of bud swelling attack young shoots and leaves, sucking out juices from them. Aphid damage leads to a change in the shape of the leaves, increasing the risk of damage during wintering by cold. For the treatment of the disease, the shrub is treated with Aktellik during bud break.
7. The red-headed aphid is expressed in the appearance of leaf swelling on the affected areas. The fight against aphids consists in processing the currants with Aktellik before the budding period, after flowering and in August-September.

Seasonal care and landing

Caring for shrubs includes periodically loosening the root area throughout the season. Insecticides, manual weeding and mulching are used to control weeds. Weed control is carried out twice a year in the fall, after harvest, or in the spring along with fertilization. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 8-10 cm using a pitchfork, shovel or hoe.

During the growing season, it is necessary to closely monitor budding, where a sign of their defeat by a mite will be their swelling, but the absence of disclosure. If more than 3 buds are damaged by a pest, the entire branch is removed. During the season, it is necessary to spray the shrub 2-3 times with a 1-2% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate.

Reproduction

Using cuttings, which are prepared as follows. A shrub shoot with a thickness of more than 7 mm and a length of 20 cm, containing at least 4-6 buds on its body, is cut off from both sides. The lower cut is made at an angle of 45 °, the upper one should have a right angle, then the cutting is sent to a container of water overnight.

Then the cuttings are planted in the soil with a distance of 10-15 cm between them, so that at least 3-4 buds remain above the ground. The soil around the planted cutting is watered, compacted and mulched with peat or compost to a depth of 4-5 cm. This method of shrub propagation is well suited for the formation of hedges.

With the help of horizontal layering performed in the spring, during the ripeness of the soil. The soil near the plantation should be loose and provided with fertilizers. Young, healthy branches of currants are buried in pre-prepared grooves 5-7 cm deep.

The young vertical shoots that appeared after a while, 6-8 cm high from the ground level, are loosened and spud with a mixture of earth with humus, with a frequency of 2-3 weeks. In the fall, the rooted cuttings are transplanted, carefully separated from the planting and transplanted.

Answers to frequently asked questions

1. When placing currants in place with a predecessor from vegetable, flower plants, the planting will be provided with nutrients for a sufficiently long time and will bear fruit better, since it will be located on unexhausted soils.
2. It is not recommended to plant a shrub on the site of a previous cultivation of gooseberries or currants, since the soils can get tired of monoculture for several years and produce an accumulation of toxins.
3. For more active pollination of currants with insects, it is recommended to spray during the flowering period with a solution of 1 liter of water from 1 tbsp. l honey.
4. It is recommended to plant currants in groups of bushes next to each other, rather than individual bushes, since in the first case, better pollination of the bushes is ensured, which increases their fertility.

Great yield of black currants thanks to proper planting and care

Black currant is one of the favorite berries of gardeners. The secret of popularity: in the natural richness of vitamins and the undemanding culture of the growing conditions. Caring for black currants has its own characteristics, but it will not cause any particular difficulties if you choose and prepare a place for planting correctly, as well as cut and process the crop from parasites and fungal diseases in time.

Currant - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before sap flow begins and the buds bloom, while the soil may not have time to warm up enough and the plant will die.

A sunny place, protected from the wind with a well-drained non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5), is chosen for the currants. Fertile light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the earth, add up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m.

Deacidification of land for planting currants with dolomite flour

Propagate currants using cuttings or dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. Cultivation of black currants will be successful if you choose two-year seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long, they take root best. Consider how the planting of currants is carried out in stages.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, the rhizomes of the weeds are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the site is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug to a depth of 40 cm.The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planting in rows - up to 3 m.

Three quarters of the pit is covered with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

Planting black currant

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This promotes the growth of basal buds and the further development of a powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, then the bush will be formed with a single stem.

Currant seedling planting scheme

Planting currants ends with watering 5 liters per hole and another 5 liters on a circular hole around it. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil: up to 8 cm in depth - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

After completing the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. The cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, sprinkled with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with a film or plastic container for rooting and engraftment. Pruning stimulates vigorous plant growth.

Scheme of cutting currant seedlings after planting

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant black currants in the summer. Most often this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This planting is also called deposition or simply breeding.It is performed after the end of fruiting: for early varieties - in July, and for late varieties - in mid and late August.

Black currant: growing and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to provide proper care for black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currant

Before the appearance of buds, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut to a healthy stem, the wounds are covered with garden var. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After feeding, the soil is dug up and watered.

Sanitary currant pruning

At the time of the formation of the ovary until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. This is done in the evening using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius), at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water ingress on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

Watering a young currant bush in spring

To improve the moisture resistance of the soil, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspaper. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Summer currant care

In the first half of June, organic feeding should be carried out: up to 15 kg of humus per 1 bush, or liquid feeding (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water a week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of berries, and is done every 5 days.

Currant care in June also includes pinching the young stems of the tops by 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of the pinching is postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During the ripening of the fruits, foliar dressing is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of ferrous sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately, and then mix together in a 10 L bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

Spraying and caring for currants in summer

After fertilizing or watering, it is recommended to remove weeds and gently loosen the soil up to 5 cm so as not to touch the root system of the plant located at a depth of 30 cm.The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 cm.

Harvesting berries must be done by the piece, and not plucked in a bunch. This is less likely to damage the plant. Watering and fertilization is completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Care for currant bushes in autumn

After completing the harvest, starting in mid-August and throughout September, watering is carried out once a week, with loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, organic matter (4-6 kg of poultry droppings) must be introduced, or fed with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, 200 g of wood ash is added when fertilizing. After that, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting for the next year.

Feeding currant bushes with organic matter

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots from different years of life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

With proper care, currants rarely get sick, there are such diseases: terry, anthracnose, gray rot, powdery mildew.Of the parasites, the kidney and spider mites, fruit sawfly, glass, and moth are dangerous for her.

Moth caterpillars on currant leaf

To protect the plant from diseases, preventive measures are used. In the spring, before the buds awaken, the bushes are watered with hot water at a temperature of plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment against pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of the bushes in order to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

Also, until the spring swelling of the buds, the currants and the soil under it are treated every 10 days. To do this, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% solution of Nitrafen or Karbofos. These drugs are also used when signs of diseases or parasites are detected, in which case caring for black currants in summer includes spraying 3 weeks before picking berries. This will help protect the crop from septoria, brown spot, glassfly and aphids.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: ​​Alirin-B, Gamair, Prognoz, Topaz, Glycoladin - from rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of a kidney mite on currants in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of black currants includes preparing for winter. The soil under the bushes is weeded and the fallen leaves are removed.

Scheme of strapping a currant bush for the winter

After the onset of the first frost, the bush is pulled together in a spiral upward with a rope, clamping it at the top with a clothespin. The ground is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation falls at the base of the bush, a snow pillow 10 cm high is made, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Outcome

Growing currants on the site will only bring pleasure, since the culture is not demanding and bears fruit perfectly. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant so that you always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then the black currant, which is taken care of according to all the rules, will thank you with a magnificent harvest and a large berry.

There are many types of berry bushes found in summer cottages. But in the list of preferences of their owners, black currant is in the first place: its planting, like caring for plants, does not cause difficulties, it is not afraid of harsh winters, it begins to bear fruit early and thanks the owner for years for taking care of generous harvests. It is easy to propagate it, and you can do it in different ways. And everyone knows about the benefits of its berries and leaves.

Soil and lighting requirements

Black currant is one of the most viable crops. It can grow almost anywhere. On the sand, in thick shade or in flooded lowlands, its bushes will turn out to be less lush, but even in such conditions they will not die. The plant will be most comfortable in areas open to sunlight with moderately moist soil, protected from wind and drafts.

A shrub is also planted in light partial shade. But in this case, expectations about the harvest should be reduced: the lack of light will make the black currant berries more acidic and reduce their number. To understand whether the chosen place is suitable for the plants, their appearance will help. In favorable conditions, they branch well, and their leaves are rich in color and look healthy.

Planting currants in fertile loose soil will be productive. It should freely allow air to flow to the plant roots and retain moisture. Light loam is an ideal option for a shrub. In dense soil, its development will slow down and yield will decrease. It is important to consider the reaction of the soil. It should be slightly alkaline or neutral. Currants do not like sour soil. Such soil will have to be limed before planting.

The culture is hygrophilous, but it grows and bears fruit poorly in swampy soil. It is best to plant shrubs on gentle slopes.It will be unsuccessful to place it in closed lowlands or on sand, as well as on lawns. The distance to groundwater should be at least 0.5-1 m.

Landing time and scheme

Black currants are planted in spring and autumn. Basically, summer residents prefer the second option. Bushes placed on the plots in the spring begin to grow quickly, so it is more difficult for them to root. There is one trick in which planting black currants at this time will be successful. For her, you need to choose plants whose root system is closed. They take root easier and faster in the open field if they are watered abundantly. You can place them in summer cottages at almost any time.

Autumn planting in the middle lane is usually carried out in early October, at the latest in the middle of the month. Under the weight of the snow, the earth around the currant bushes will be compacted in a natural way. In the spring, they wake up early and show rapid growth.

Planting black currants in a row has already become a tradition. This placement makes it easier to care for her bushes and saves space on the site. 1-1.25 m are left between neighboring plants. Some summer residents increase this distance to 2 m. It is important to take into account the proximity of other shrubs and trees when planting. At least 1.5-2 m retreat from the first, 3-4 m from the second. Currants grow quickly. When only 3-4 years have passed, the seemingly bare area will be unrecognizable.

Advice

If you want to get the harvest earlier, you can leave less space between the bushes (70-80 cm). With a dense planting, they will begin to bear fruit after 2-3 years, but fewer berries are formed on them, and they will grow old faster.

Having decided to place the currants near the fence or walls of buildings, you need to leave enough space for it. The minimum distance to them is 1.2 m. It will not be possible to harvest from the branches pressed against the fence.

Seedling selection and site preparation

Preparing a place in the country for currant bushes will not take much time. If earlier this site was used for growing vegetable or flower crops, it is simply well dug up, going deeper by 1 bayonet of a shovel and picking out the roots of perennial weeds from the soil. Deep depressions or pits are covered with soil, carefully leveling the surface.

Planting black currants correctly means taking into account the peculiarities of crop rotation. In order for the plants to have enough nutrients and they are less sick, the culture is returned to the previous site only after 3 years. The same recommendation is adhered to if gooseberry bushes used to be at the planting site.

For those who don't have time to wait, there are 2 options:

1. find another site;
2. depart from the old at least 1 m.

When choosing a seedling, they carefully examine it. A viable plant has lignified and branched roots. 3-5 of them should be skeletal and at least 15-20 cm long. A quality seedling has 1-2 (or more) 30-40 cm branches. The plant should look fresh and free from signs of infection and pests.

Pay attention to the specific characteristics of the variety:

• its compliance with the climate of the area;
• the presence of immunity to diseases;
• frost resistance.

The harvest will be more plentiful, and the berries will be larger if you plant several varieties of crops in the country. This rule applies even to self-fertile blackcurrant species. Planting in areas of plants with different flowering periods will help to insure against recurrent frosts. So even in a cold spring, it will be possible to get a harvest from at least a few bushes.

How to plant currants correctly

Planting currants begins with the preparation of the pit. It is usually made shallow (35-40 cm) and wide (50-60 cm in diameter). If the soil in the country house is poor, the size of the pit is increased so that it can be filled with a nutritious substrate. Lay it out in 2 layers. Fertile soil is poured at the bottom, adding the following components to it:

• compost;
• rotted manure (peat can be used instead);
• wood ash or potassium sulfate;
• superphosphate.

About ¾ of the pit volume is filled with this mixture. It should be under the roots of the seedling. The rest of the deepening will be occupied by simple fertile soil without fertilizers. Having sprinkled a nutritious substrate with it, they begin to plant a plant.

Its roots are examined. If damaged or dry areas are identified, they are trimmed to healthy tissue. With proper planting, the bush will be 5 cm below the mark at which it grew up to it. The root collar should be underground (at a distance of 6-8 cm from the surface). This will give an impetus to the intensive formation of basal buds, and the bush will grow lush.

The next step is abundant watering. ½ a bucket of water is brought into the pit itself and the same amount into the hole, which is made at the landing site. Then the soil under the bushes is mulched without covering the plants themselves.

As mulch, you can use:

• peat;
• compost;
• straw;
• sawdust.

The recommended thickness of a mulching layer made of organic materials is 5-8 cm. If they are not at hand, use dry soil. It is poured in a thinner layer (1-2 cm). Planting ends with pruning of the plant. Only a stump is left from it, which should rise 7 cm above the soil surface.Do not spare the seedling. Already next year it will turn into a small but branched bush. Without pruning, it will take a season longer to wait.

Soil processing and watering

Legends can be made about the unpretentiousness of black currant. But so that the plantings do not overgrow, and the yield does not fall, you still have to take care of them. The bush does not like the neighborhood of weeds. They are its main competitors in the fight for moisture and nutrients. Best of all, currants feel on a soil clean from any other plants.

It is impossible to spray herbicides near currant plantations, so there are 2 ways to remove weeds:

1. weeding;
2. mulching.

"General cleaning" of competing plants is carried out twice a season: in spring, when fertilizers have already been applied, and in summer, when the last berries are harvested.

Black currant responds well to soil loosening. Any garden tools are used for him: a hoe, a shovel, a pitchfork. Near the root collar, the soil is cultivated to a depth of 6-8 cm. Under the bushes, loosening is made more intense, affecting a 10-12-centimeter layer of earth. If the trunk circle is mulched, the soil remains moist longer and the frequency of loosening is reduced.

The roots of the shrub are located shallowly - only 50 cm from the soil surface. Therefore, currants cannot do without watering for a long time. Saplings and young bushes especially suffer from lack of water. Adult plants need regular moisture in June, when shoots are actively growing and berries are poured, and in late summer-early autumn, when flower buds of the next season are laid. Drying out of the soil during this period will lead to shedding of unripe berries and crushing of the remaining ones. It will also negatively affect the harvest of the next year.

If the summer is dry, the plantings are watered often (at intervals of 7-10 days) and abundantly. For each plant, they spend 1.5-2 buckets of water. It is more convenient to water in the grooves. They are dug around the bush, stepping back 20-25 cm from the tips of its shoots. If it rains periodically, 4-5 waterings per season will be enough for adult plants. Loves currants and leaf spraying. On hot days, it is better to spend them more often.

Top dressing

With proper preparation of the planting pits, the cultivation of black currants on the site in the first 2 years does without feeding. When this milestone is passed, the plants will have to be fertilized annually. Some summer residents feed the plantings less often - once every 2 years. Currant reacts equally well to mineral and organic compounds. They are brought in mainly in the fall or early spring. Spreading humus or compost (4-5 kg ​​per plant) and complex mineral fertilizer (about 40 g) under the bushes, they loosen the soil.

Closer to the end of spring (but before the beginning of summer), when the currant bushes enter the phase of active growth, one more root dressing is carried out. To do this, it is good to use one of the following means:

• manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 8;
• poultry manure solution (1 part fertilizer per 10 parts water);
• infusion of herbs.

The nutrient composition is poured into the grooves, immediately sprinkling them. Each plant takes 1.5-2 buckets. The introduction of complex mineral fertilizers at this stage will be less useful, but you can use it as well.

With the onset of flowering, currant bushes are watered with infused potato peel. The starch contained in it will increase the productivity of plants. A solution is prepared from dried potato peelings. They are added to boiling water (in a ratio of 1:10), covered with a lid and, having wrapped the container well, left to cool completely. For each currant bush spend 1 liter of the resulting composition.

Advice

In September, plantings are fed with phosphorus-potassium preparations. They will help plants survive the winter with minimal damage.

Pruning

Growing black currants in the country involves regular pruning. It is most convenient to carry them out in the fall, when the bush is completely naked, exposing old and unnecessary branches. Young (less than 5 years old) shoots are left on an adult plant. Old branches are cut strictly at the level of the soil, leaving no stumps. The wound is treated with garden varnish.

Young shoots are disposed of only in extreme cases - if they:

• injured;
• are sick;
• poorly developed;
• thicken the bush.

Young plants also need pruning. In the first years of life, a bush is formed in a permanent place, shortening its shoots to 10-15 cm. After the procedure, 2 to 4 developed buds should remain on them. The next year, they get rid of small shoots, simultaneously removing weak branches. The skeleton of the bush begins to form, leaving a maximum of 4 well-developed zero-order shoots.

A year later, the main focus is on the branches of the first order. Of these, the 5 most powerful are kept on the plant, and the rest are removed. By the age of 4-5, the currant bush should have 15-20 skeletal branches. In the future, the task of the gardener becomes their sanitary and rejuvenating pruning, which is carried out annually.

Supports and preparation for winter

In many varieties of currants, the bushes grow sprawling. This makes it difficult to care for them and leads to the fact that part of the crop is soiled in the ground. It is convenient to put props under such bushes. You can buy ready-made in stores or make them yourself. The easiest option is to drive stakes around the plant and pull off the branches with twine. But here it is important not to overdo it. Currant shoots should not be pressed against each other. That's right, if there is a lot of free space between them.

After the autumn feeding, the planting is spud. If the soil in the area is heavy, it is better to dig it to a shallow depth without breaking lumps. This will keep more moisture in the ground. Light and loose soil in the near-trunk circles can simply be loosened well by 5-8 cm. But you cannot do without digging the row spacing (by 10-12 cm). Watering is also required at this time, especially if the autumn is dry. Under each plant, add 20-30 liters of water.

Before the onset of cold weather, it is advisable to tie the bushes with a rope or twine so that the branches do not break and do not bend to the ground under the weight of the snow. You can build a kind of fence of stakes around them. In winter, the bushes are covered with a thick layer of snow.

With the arrival of heat, the plants need to be carefully examined. Frost-beaten branches are cut out, and the remaining ones are treated with Bordeaux liquid (1%). It is worth paying attention to the swelling kidneys. They can be infected with a tick. Signs of its presence are a strong enlargement of the kidneys, their inflated, rounded shape. You cannot leave such shoots on the bush; they must be immediately removed and burned.

Agrotechnology of black currant is simple, but its observance will allow you to get rich yields of tasty and healthy berries. From planting this particular shrub on the site, inexperienced summer residents should start their experiments. Currants, like no other culture, are tolerant of the mistakes of the owner. Neither overflow, nor lack of nutrition and moisture, nor frosty winters, nor improper pruning will be able to ruin it.

The reproduction of the bush will not bring trouble either. 6-year-old plants are the most productive, therefore, professionals in summer cottages do not allow plantings to grow old. When the currant bush reaches 3 years of age, cuttings are cut from it or the branch is bent to the ground and added dropwise to obtain layering. They are deposited in a separate area. By the time the yield of the mother plant decreases, the first berries will already be tied on young bushes.

Currants are good for everyone: they are beautiful, tasty and do not require special care. Know yourself, remove the weeds, and put the berries in your mouth. For which gardeners love it, growing almost everywhere, from the Kuban to Siberia. But, you can significantly increase the yield, provide yourself with berries, and sell the surplus. True, for this it is necessary to select suitable varieties, and strictly observe agricultural technology. Read our article and find out how to surprise yourself and your neighbors with rich currant crops.

There is a rule: "To fix something, you need to know how it works." This also applies to the cultivation of currants: in order to achieve high yields, you need to know the biological characteristics of the plant. There are three types of currants:

• black;
• red;
• golden.

The species are similar in principles of agricultural technology and biological characteristics. As part of the article, we will consider black currants, and we will tell you the nuances of growing red as necessary.

Biological features of currants

Currant is a perennial shrub, the height of which does not exceed 1.5-2 m. A feature of the plant is the absence of buds on the roots.

Take a look at the image. The growth of basal shoots (1) begins from the zone of the root collar (6). It is in this way that a currant bush is formed, because it does not give growth. The next year, after the emergence of zero-order shoots, two-year branches appear (2), then three-year branches (3).

This feature of the currant must be taken into account when planting a bush.

Root collar

should be about 10 cm below the soil surface.

In this case, many shoots of the zero order appear, the bush is easier to form, and over time it is possible to rejuvenate without problems. Most gardeners do not know about this, and many Internet resources do not provide such information. Meanwhile, the correct location of the root collar of the bush is the key to the strength of the plant and a bountiful harvest.

Features of the development of stems

Currants differ in the nature of the development of the stem. Conventionally, the plant can be divided into three groups:

1. Many annual branches, but few perennial ones. In the currants of this group, the fruits live for a year or two, then they die, and new ones are formed in their place. After 4-5 years, new fruit branches stop forming and yield decreases. The situation can be corrected by pruning branches older than 4 years "per ring". The most famous variety of black currant of this species is September Daniel.
2. There are few basal shoots, but perennial stems branch well. Fruits on such bushes live for a long time, on average 4-5 years, therefore the bush bears fruit for 6-7 years. If the branch is older, the fruits on it become smaller, the yield decreases. The solution to the problem is the annual cutting of 2-3 perennial branches. This stimulates the growth and development of basal shoots, the bush is renewed in a timely manner, the yield does not decrease. A variety of this type is Pamyat Michurin.
3. In this group, the varieties occupying an average "position" between the previous ones. In other words, both the number of basal shoots and the degree of their branching have an average value. The fruiting period is 5-6 years.It can be increased by shortening the branches to the first strong bud. One of these varieties is Success.

In the picture you can see how fruits are formed on branches of different ages in black currant.

As for the red currant, it has more durable fruits. Subject to agricultural technology, red currants give a greater yield than black currants for 8-10 years. Pruning is mainly aimed not at rejuvenating the bush, but at reducing the degree of thickening.

Currant morphogenesis

If you are scared and decide to quickly scroll through this item - we hasten to reassure you. We will not tell you all the biological subtleties. But knowing the timing of the morphogenesis of currants and what it affects will help to take the necessary measures in a timely manner to increase yields.

Scientists have found that the process of laying a crop begins a year before fruiting. This year, the yield will depend on how the currant developed in the last season. And it is morphogenesis (kidney differentiation) that is the most important stage. The timing of the process is different, depending on the following factors:

• type and variety of currants;
• air temperature;
• the amount of precipitation;
• the number of sunny and cloudy days;
• other conditions.

It was found that in dry and sunny weather, morphogenesis proceeds faster than in cloudy and rainy ones. In terms of timing, we can only say for sure that the beginning of kidney differentiation is from July 12, and the end is in the spring of next year. In some years, morphogenesis can begin in early August.

Surprisingly, it is during this period that most inexperienced gardeners calm down, and limit themselves only to weeding and waiting for the harvest. Meanwhile, efforts must be redoubled and the observance of agricultural practices must be monitored.

Currant bushes should receive the required amount of nutrients, water, light. It is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the leaves. Disease-damaged or underdeveloped leaves do not provide high-quality photosynthesis. The significance of this process for plant life is known from the school course in biology.

Different types of currants

Check out the main modern currant varieties of different types. You can enlarge the photo by clicking and view everything in more detail. The varieties listed below are approved by VNIISPK and zoned.

Smolyaninovskaya currant

One of the few modern varieties that have white fruits. As a result of selection, scientists have obtained a shrub that not only possesses such unusual berries, but also has a high resistance to diseases.

The Smolyaninovskaya variety is easy to care for, it is not afraid of frost, the berries are juicy, with a characteristic sourness. At the same time, a good yield was achieved: if you follow agricultural techniques, then you will receive up to 5 kg of harvest from one bush! It is possible to grow this variety in open ground in the Urals, the Volga region and in the central regions of Russia.

Currant varieties Karaidel

The variety is intended for cultivation in the Urals, but is also suitable for other regions of Russia. The bush is compact, it is not difficult to care for it. Of the amenities - a low degree of infection by fungal diseases, winter hardiness.

The berries are large enough, fragrant, with dense pulp. There are few seeds, you can safely use it for making jams. The only drawback is that it requires regular pruning due to the strong growth of basal shoots.

Dutch red currant

One of the oldest currant varieties. It is known that it was grown in Europe as early as the 17th century. The currant bush is high, the crown density is increased, but at the same time not very spreading. Fruits are dense, with a characteristic sour taste. The seeds are dense, large, therefore the main purpose of the variety is processing and conservation.

Dutch red currant has excellent resistance to fungal diseases. The plant is suitable for growing outdoors in the North-Western regions of Russia, but it does not take root well in the Urals or Kuban.

Currant Krasa Altai

Are you looking for a variety of currants that can be grown outdoors in the Urals and Siberia? Pay attention to the Beauty of Altai. The plant is susceptible to powdery mildew and some pests, but, with timely preventive treatments, it will delight you with yield.

The variety perfectly tolerates severe frosts, self-pollinates. A pleasant addition - the berries are firmly adhered to the branches and, after ripening, do not crumble. At the same time, the taste of currants is pleasant, with a slight sourness. Suitable for food both fresh and for preservation.

Currant Ural beauty

Despite the fact that the variety is zoned for Western Siberia, it is successfully grown in the Urals, in the Moscow region and in other regions of Russia. The variety attracts gardeners with its high yield and large, sweet berries. The Ural beauty tolerates severe frosts well, and the medium-sized size of the bush facilitates the process of caring for the plant.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out a weak resistance to some pests. You can fight them, and successfully. Subject to the recommended agricultural practices, the variety will delight you with regular and abundant harvests.

We have described for you only some of the modern varieties of currants. If you are interested in earlier breeding, which were cultivated in the USSR, see the table.

Belarusian sweet	Average	Black, large, weighing 1-1.2 g	High	2.5-3 kg / bush
Grape	Early	Black, large, weight 1.3 g	Excellent	3-6 kg / bush
Leningrad giant	Average	Black, with a thin skin, weighing 1.2-2.2 g	Good	3-5 kg ​​/ bush
Stakhanovka Altai	Average	Black, dull, do not crumble, weight 0.7-0.9 g	High	1.5-3 kg / bush
Chulkovskaya	Early	Red, small, weighing 0.4 g	Average	4-6 kg / bush
Sugar red	Early	Juicy, sweet, weighing up to 1 g	High	4 kg / bush
Versailles white	Average	Yellow, transparent, large, weight up to 1.5 g.	Average	3-4 kg / bush

Remember that you need to buy currant seedlings of any kind in nurseries. Buying at the market or from a "familiar gardener" is fraught with unpleasant consequences. The fact is that some pathogens and parasites of currants have an incubation period of 1-2 years. Outwardly, the seedling may look healthy, but after a while the disease will manifest itself. When buying planting material in nurseries, there is no such risk.

Currant planting rules

The yield of any kind of currant depends on the conditions in which it grows. The landing site must meet the following requirements:

• the site is flat, or a small slope (no more than 50);
• planting on hills or depressions is not recommended: in the first case, the plant will suffer from cold wind, in the second - from the accumulation of cold air;
• any soil, but their acidity is not lower than 4.5 pH;
• the depth of the groundwater is at least 1 m.

Having found a suitable place, proceed to the next stage. Remove all weeds, apply fertilizer to the soil according to the following scheme:

• manure or compost - a bucket per square meter;
• lime - 2-6 kg / m2 (dosage depends on the pH level);
• superphosphate - 500-700 g / 10 m2;
• potash salt - 200 g / 10 m2.

After fertilizing, dig up the soil onto the bayonet of the shovel. Remember that soil preparation should be done approximately 2 months before planting.

The size of the planting pits depends on the quality of the soil. The optimal values ​​are 40x40 cm, if the land is scarce in nutrients - do not be lazy and dig large holes. The currant will thank you with enhanced growth and high yields.

You can see the layout schemes in the table.

Single	1	1,8-2
Tape	0,6-0,8	2

The belt scheme has an advantage over the single one: already in the first years, the yield increases significantly. The disadvantage of this method is that fungi and viruses are actively developing in a thickened environment, which requires additional care. The choice of the currant planting scheme is up to you.

Plants can be planted in autumn, but the best survival rate is obtained with spring planting.The seedlings need to be prepared. How to do it?

Cuttings must be kept in water at a temperature of 460C for 13-15 minutes. The purpose of this procedure is to kill the currant kidney mite. Be careful about the water temperature, lower values ​​will not give the desired result, higher values ​​will ruin the cuttings.

Purchased seedlings need to be pruned, if this was not done in the nursery. Leave 3-4 buds on the branches, remove the rest. This activity stimulates the development of the bush in the first years of life. See the photo for an example, the branches to be removed are marked in red.

Now you can start planting currants. Make a soil mixture using the following recipe:

• a bucket of soil;
• humus bucket;
• 200 g of phosphate fertilizers;
• 40 g of potassium preparations.

Mix well and pour on the bottom of the planting hole. To protect the roots of currants from burns with fertilizers - make a small mound of clean earth on top of the mixture. As a result, you should have a mound at the bottom of the hole.

Now you can proceed directly to planting:

1. Pour a bucket of water into each well to form a liquid mud.
2. Place the seedlings. An important condition: they should be located at an angle, and the root collar is 8-10 cm below the soil surface. This planting stimulates the rapid development of basal shoots. We wrote about this at the beginning of the article. If your site has loamy soils, then the depth of the root collar should be no more than 5 cm.
3. Spread the roots, make sure that they do not bend upwards, this will worsen the survival rate.
4. Fill in the soil and compact it so that there are no voids around the roots. At this stage, it is important not to overdo it, so control yourself. Just tug lightly on the seedling: it should not be pulled out, but also not "sit" firmly in the ground.

Water the plant well for the first 5 days after planting. The norm is 3-5 liters per bush. If the weather is rainy, there is no need to water.

Outdoor currant care

Pay special attention to weed control, they must be removed regularly. For the development of beneficial soil microorganisms, loosening must be carried out. Do this carefully so as not to damage the roots. The depth of loosening at a distance of 30 cm from the bush is 4-6 cm, further 30 cm - up to 12 cm. This technique, in addition, will not allow weeds to multiply. In the early years, you can grow lettuce or dill between rows.

Don't forget about mulching. It will help to retain moisture, protect against weeds, and increase yields. Use humus, peat, foliage, or plastic wrap. The width of the mulched circle in the first years of the life of the currant is 50-70 cm, later - 1.25 m. The thickness of the mulch is 4-5 cm.

As for watering, it is necessary during dry periods, during the growth of the bush, and after harvesting. The norm is 30 l / m2. Remember, if the year is rainy, you do not need to water the currants.

Top dressing and fertilizers for currants

Do you want to increase the yield of currants by 30%, or even 50%? This is possible if fertilizers and fertilizing are applied correctly. In the first year, if you planted the plant according to the rules, the seedlings do not need to be fertilized. Enough introduction of urea, in a concentration of 0.3% - this will improve the development of the seedling in the growth phase.

Starting from the second year of the currant's life, begin to apply fertilizers. Remember that in early summer, the plant requires nitrogen fertilization to stimulate leaf growth and increase ovary formation. Towards the end of summer, especially after harvest, when morphogenesis is most active, currants need potash fertilizers. For drugs and their dosage, see the table.

1-3 years	Ammonium nitrate	100-100
	Superphosphate	200-300
	Potassium nitrate	100-150
4 years and older	Ammonium nitrate	200-400
	Superphosphate	300-600
	Potassium nitrate	150-300

Ammonium nitrate is a nitrogen fertilizer, superphosphate is a phosphorus fertilizer. This information will help you determine when to apply. These substances can be added both in dry form and in solutions; the method will not affect the effectiveness.

Important:

Try not to use potassium salts: currants react badly to them. For red currants, it is generally better to replace mineral potash fertilizers by adding wood ash in the same dose.

Organics can also be used as root feeding:

• slurry - dilute with water 5-6 times;
• bird droppings - dilute with water 10-12 times.

Not only dosage and timing affect the effectiveness of fertilizer use. The important thing is how they are entered. For example, if you simply dig up the soil along with the preparations, they will remain in the top layer of the soil. Roots that are deeply located will not receive nutrients. Therefore, this method can be used with a single landing pattern.

Better results are obtained by the method that our grandfathers used. Dig circular holes along the projection of the bush. They should be narrow, but at least 25 cm deep. After applying top dressing - fill the holes with earth.

A good result when growing currants in the open field is given by foliar dressing, which is carried out by spraying. We recommend using one of two recipes:

1. 1.3 g of potassium permanganate and boric acid per bucket of water - spray the plants in the flowering phase.
2. 30 g of ammonium and 25 g of potassium nitrate, 100 g of superphosphate, 10 liters of water - for spraying bushes.

Top dressing is done early in the morning, it is desirable that the leaf is wet. You cannot hold such events at lunchtime: you can burn the foliage.

Mineral fertilizers are good, but don't forget about organics. The introduction of humus, peat, compost as a top dressing will not only provide the plant with the necessary substances, but also enrich the soil with beneficial bacteria. Such feeding should be carried out every two years, in late autumn.

Currant pruning

We already spoke about the technique partly at the beginning of the article, now in more detail. The purpose of pruning is sanitary and bush formation. The yield of the plant largely depends on how correctly the currant pruning was done. What do you need to pay attention to?

1. You have already pruned the branches when planting. Now you need to choose and leave two or three powerful root shoots every year, remove the rest. This will create a strong and productive shrub.
2. Cut the left branches to ¼ of the original length.
3. Cut branches that are more than 5 years old. It is easy to get ahead of them: the tops of the shoots dry out, the growths are weak.
4. Prune diseased branches in time.

For red currants, the pruning technique is the same. The exception is on two-year-old shoots and older, the tops cannot be cut off.

How can currant propagate

Have you bought currants, got your first harvest and thought about how to propagate the bushes? Use a vegetative method, it is he who allows you to preserve the parental qualities of the plant.

1. Woody cuttings.
2. Green cuttings.
3. Green apical cuttings.
4. Layers.

Each method has its own nuances, we will tell you about them, and you choose the technique at your discretion.

Propagation by woody cuttings

The method impresses with its simplicity and worthy results. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology. Read carefully and memorize.

1. Select the bottom or middle part of the annual branch. The length of the harvested cutting should be 15-20 cm, thickness - 6 mm. The number of buds on the handle is 4-5 pcs. Material procurement time is the second half of September.
2. Place the cut material in a container with wet sand and place it in the basement. If possible, the cuttings can be kept under the snow, this method of wooding is preferable.
3. Treat the cuttings with root growth promoters before planting in spring. Use "Kornevin" - 5g / 5L or heteroauxin - 100-150 g per liter of water. Keep the cuttings in the solution for a day, while they should be 2/3 immersed in the liquid. The air temperature should not be lower than 230C.
4. Transplant the cuttings into potting soil.After about 12 days, seals will appear on the bottom, which signal that the cuttings can be planted in a permanent place in the open ground.
5. While the cuttings are in the pots, prepare the soil at the planting site. To do this, add 8 kg of compost, 40 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of wood ash for each square meter. Dig up and moisten the soil.
6. Cuttings should be planted in early spring at an angle of 450, leaving one bud on the surface. This planting contributes to the rapid growth of the root system. The distance between the cuttings in a row is 10 cm, the row spacing is 25 cm.
7. An important condition is abundant irrigation after planting in the amount of 30 liters of water per square meter.

A good result is obtained by planting cuttings under a film. To do this, spread the material over the garden bed, dig in the edges. The planting scheme with this method is 8x15 cm. To get rid of weeds that can grow under the film, sprinkle the aisles with earth in the summer.

With this method of propagation, the bush is obtained with one stem. To get several branches - pinch the top as soon as it grows 8 cm. You will get 2-3 shoots.

Propagation by green cuttings

One of the simple and reliable breeding methods, which is suitable for both a novice hobbyist and an experienced gardener. Cutting is carried out as soon as the desired shoots reach a length of 20 cm. This usually happens by mid-summer, but the timing for each region is different. To have a clear idea of ​​the method - see the schematic image.

1. Select branches that are 2 years old with developed second-order shoots (1).
2. Cut the cuttings according to the scheme, the lower leaves can be removed.
3. Remember that there should be a small patch of 2-year-old wood on the bottom.
4. Plant in the ground (3), the distance between the cuttings is 5 cm, in the row spacing is 15 cm. The planting depth is 3-7 cm, but the longer the cutting, the greater the value.
5. Water abundantly, about 3-4 times at knocks. In case of heat - 5-7 times.

Further care of cuttings consists in timely weeding, loosening and fight against diseases.

An interesting way is used by some gardeners, we hasten to share it with you. The technology is the same, but the cuttings are grown not outdoors, but indoors under plastic wrap stretched over arcs. Gauze is pulled from above to protect the plant from sunburn. Before closing the bed, it is watered abundantly.

Now you can rest for 15 days. Watering the cuttings is carried out by means of condensation, and the increased air temperature contributes to the rapid rooting of the cuttings. A month after planting, remove the film and continue to grow young bushes in the usual way.

Propagation by green apical cuttings

The method is rather complicated; special equipment is required. For its implementation, a greenhouse or greenhouse and a fogging installation are required. This technology is available to specialized gardens and nurseries, so let's talk about it briefly.

Cuttings are planted in a specially prepared substrate consisting of soil and peat in a 1: 1 ratio. Then, using the installation, a fog is created, the humidity of the air must be at least 90%. With this method, the cuttings take root after 2 weeks.

Reproduction by layering

The method is simple, it is used often. It is based on the ability of currants to "put down" roots from shoots. The technology is simple:

1. In early spring, bend annual shoots to the ground, fix them with wooden spears, as shown in the figure.
2. As soon as the shoots grow 10 cm, make the first hilling 4 cm thick. The soil must be moist.
3. After 20 days, repeat the hilling, the layer thickness is 10 cm.
4. In the fall, cut off the shoot from the base of the bush, select the strongest shoots and transplant to a permanent place. Do not touch weak shoots, let them grow.

The survival rate of cuttings is high, you can easily propagate the variety you like.

Diseases and pests of currants

Even modern varieties of currants of different types can be damaged by diseases or diseases.

See tables for signs and treatments.

Currant pests

Currant kidney mite	The kidneys enlarge, become rounded. In the spring they are deformed, take the form of a head of cabbage. Leaves and inflorescences are not formed.	1. Wood cuttings are disinfected with hot water (read in the article), green cuttings with black tea. 2. Before flowering treatment of buds with karbofos (30g / 10 l of water). 3. Spraying the bushes with garlic infusion (100 g / 10 l). 4. To destroy heavily affected bushes.
Spider mite	Damages foliage, which first brightens, then turns brown and falls	Treatment, as in the case of a currant mite. Prevention - timely cleaning of fallen leaves
Gooseberry shoot aphid	The leaves on the tops of the branches curl, the young shoots are curved.	Spraying with nitrafen (300g / 10 l). Infusion of tobacco 400 g / 10 l.
Willow shield	Larvae appear and firmly attach to the bark. As a result, the branches weaken and can dry out.	Nitrafen treatment 300 g / 10 l.
Leafy currant gall midge	The parasite larvae eat the leaves. Damages appear, the leaves turn brown and dry.	Prevention: mulching with peat and autumn digging of the soil. Treatment: 0.3% karbofos emulsion.
Stem currant gall midge	The parasite larvae destroy branches and young shoots.	The measures are the same as for leaf gall midge. Re-processing is needed after harvesting.
Currant kidney moth	The caterpillars of the parasite are red or green in color, the head is black. They bite into the buds of the currants and eat them away from the inside.	Timely cutting of dry branches and stumps, followed by burning. Treatment of the bush with a nitrafen solution (300 g / 10 l).
Gooseberry moth	Caterpillars of the butterfly are dark green in color, the head is black. They parasitize the fruits of black currant.	Hilling currants in the fall with a layer of soil up to 10 cm. Spraying with infusions of wormwood or tobacco.

Currant diseases and their treatment

Powdery mildew	A light white bloom appears on the shoots and fruits. Further, it thickens, changes color to brown. Leaves and shoots stop growing and die.	Spraying before flowering with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g / 10 l) After flowering, 4-fold treatment of the bushes with a solution of soda ash and soap (50 g / 10 l each). In case of severe damage, spraying with colloidal sulfur 1% (50 g / 10 l).
Terry black currant	Leaves lengthen, become asymmetrical, the number of veins decreases. The inflorescences become purple in color. The bushes are thickened.	Purchase planting material from nurseries. Destroy diseased bushes. There are no effective control measures.
Anthracnose	Yellow spots appear on the leaves and shoots, which change color to brown. Over time, the lesions grow and merge. The leaves take on the appearance of burnt and fall off. Brown bumps may appear on the berries.	Prevention: timely collection and destruction of fallen leaves. Treatment of planting material with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g / 10 l). For treatment, spray the bush with Bordeaux liquid 1%. Double processing: before flowering and after harvesting.

Red currants are not affected by the described pests and are less sick. But, if suddenly a disease has arisen, the control measures are the same.

Conclusion

Now you know not only how to plant currants, but also the basics of proper care for a high yield.

Note that many modern varieties may have slightly different requirements for agricultural technology, so check the nuances of care when buying seedlings.

When writing the article, the following literature was used:

1. Shaumyan K.V., Kolesnikov E.V. 'Yagodniki' - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1981 - p. 64.
2. Glebova E.I., Dankov V.V., Skripchenko M.M. 'Berry Garden' - Leningrad: Lenizdat, 1990 - p. 205

If you still have any questions - ask in the comments, we will answer them. Did you like the article? Share it with your friends on social networks.

Great yield of black currants thanks to proper planting and care

Black currant is one of the favorite berries of gardeners. The secret of popularity: in the natural richness of vitamins and the undemanding culture of the growing conditions. Caring for black currants has its own characteristics, but it will not cause any particular difficulties if you choose and prepare a place for planting correctly, as well as cut and process the crop from parasites and fungal diseases in time.

Currant - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before sap flow begins and the buds bloom, while the soil may not have time to warm up enough and the plant will die.

A sunny place, protected from the wind with a well-drained non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5), is chosen for the currants. Fertile light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the earth, add up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m.

Deacidification of land for planting currants with dolomite flour

Propagate currants using cuttings or dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. Cultivation of black currants will be successful if you choose biennial seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long, they take root best. Consider how the planting of currants is carried out in stages.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, the rhizomes of the weeds are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the site is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug to a depth of 40 cm.The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planting in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the pit is covered with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

Planting black currant

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This promotes the growth of basal buds and the further development of a powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, then the bush will be formed with a single stem.

Planting scheme for currant seedlings

Planting currants ends with watering 5 liters per hole and another 5 liters on a circular hole around it. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil: up to 8 cm in depth - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

After completing the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. The cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, sprinkled with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with a film or plastic container for rooting and engraftment. Pruning stimulates vigorous plant growth.

Scheme of cutting currant seedlings after planting

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant black currants in the summer. Most often this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This planting is also called sedimentation or simply breeding. It is performed after the end of fruiting: for early varieties - in July, and for late varieties - in mid and late August.

Black currant: growing and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to provide proper care for black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currant

Before the appearance of buds, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut to a healthy stem, the wounds are covered with garden var.Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After feeding, the soil is dug up and watered.

Sanitary currant pruning

At the time of the formation of the ovary until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. This is done in the evening using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius), at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water ingress on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

Watering a young currant bush in spring

To improve the moisture resistance of the soil, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspaper. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Summer currant care

In the first half of June, organic feeding should be carried out: up to 15 kg of humus per 1 bush, or liquid feeding (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water a week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of berries, and is done every 5 days.

Currant care in June also includes pinching the young stems of the tops by 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of the pinching is postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During the ripening of the fruits, foliar dressing is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of ferrous sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately, and then mix together in a 10 L bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

Spraying and caring for currants in summer

After fertilizing or watering, it is recommended to remove weeds and gently loosen the soil up to 5 cm so as not to touch the root system of the plant located at a depth of 30 cm.The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 cm.

Harvesting berries must be done by the piece, and not plucked in a bunch. This is less likely to damage the plant. Watering and fertilization is completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Care for currant bushes in autumn

After completing the harvest, starting in mid-August and throughout September, watering is carried out once a week, with loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, it is necessary to introduce organic matter (4-6 kg of poultry droppings), or feed them with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, 200 g of wood ash is added when fertilizing. After that, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting for the next year.

Feeding currant bushes with organic matter

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots from different years of life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

With proper care, currants rarely get sick, there are such diseases: terry, anthracnose, gray rot, powdery mildew. Of the parasites, the kidney and spider mites, fruit sawfly, glass, and moth are dangerous for her.

Moth caterpillars on currant leaf

To protect the plant from diseases, preventive measures are used. In the spring, before the buds awaken, the bushes are watered with hot water at a temperature of plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment against pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of the bushes in order to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

Also, until the spring swelling of the buds, the currants and the soil under it are treated every 10 days. To do this, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% solution of Nitrafen or Karbofos. These drugs are also used when signs of diseases or parasites are detected, in which case caring for black currants in summer includes spraying 3 weeks before picking berries. This will help protect the crop from septoria, brown spot, glassfly and aphids.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: ​​Alirin-B, Gamair, Forecast, Topaz, Glycoladin - from rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of a kidney mite on currants in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of black currants includes preparing for winter. The soil under the bushes is weeded and the fallen leaves are removed.

Scheme of strapping a currant bush for the winter

After the onset of the first frost, the bush is pulled together in a spiral upward with a rope, clamping it at the top with a clothespin. The ground is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation falls at the base of the bush, a snow pillow 10 cm high is made, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Outcome

Growing currants on the site will only bring pleasure, since the culture is not demanding and bears fruit perfectly. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant so that you always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then the black currant, which is taken care of according to all the rules, will thank you with a magnificent harvest and a large berry.

Reproduction of black currant cuttings in spring

Similar articles

Reproduction of black currant

You can bend one of the lower branches, pin it to the soil with wooden slingshots, after making a few scratches on the bark. The place of the digging should be sprinkled on top with moist soil and covered with a film so that it does not dry out. The upper part of the dug-in branch is not cut off. The next year, the rooted branch is separated from the mother bush and transplanted into place. The cuttings bloom in the same year.

1. To the content
2. See you soon, dear readers!
3. The upper part of the arcuate cut does not stop growing and developing above ground level.
4. ♦ Horizontal.
5. Planting petioles is carried out in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Under favorable living conditions (the required air / soil humidity), the roots will begin to form after two weeks.
6. Twigs need to be planted in greenhouse, greenhouse conditions under a cozy film.

Propagation of currants by cuttings

The material is planted in a "stalk" prepared in the fall (it looks like a V-shaped pothole). The pit is filled with a composition of fertile soil, rotted manure and compost.

We delicately select the seeds, put them on a paper sheet and dry them well.

Breeding currants

The whole complexity of this process will consist only in the correct choice of timing and compliance with each step. Reproduction, taking into account the region of growth of black currant, will occur with the harvesting of its green cuttings, and at different times. But in any case, this is a period of melting snow and swelling of the buds.

Next time we will talk about diseases and pests of black currant.

Hello dear readers!

Currants are regularly watered all spring and early summer, especially in dry and windy weather - at least 2-3 buckets under a bush per week in the absence of rain. All plants should be watered in the evening so that moisture can penetrate into the root zone during the night.

Few people at their summer cottage have no black currant bushes. Many consider currants to be a plant that requires almost no maintenance, and only think about pruning the bush and controlling pests when the yield is greatly reduced.Yes, black currant is unpretentious to the soil, withstands severe frosts, but needs the attention of a gardener, especially in spring. We'll tell you where to start.

In the fall, the rooted twig is cut off with a pruner, carefully removed together with the earthen lump, where the roots are and planted in a permanent place.

The most common and popular ways. The event should be carried out before the leaves begin to bloom.Leaving.We plant the petioles in the soil by 4 cm. The soil consists of identical parts of peat, sifted sand and mature compost. After planting, cover the seedlings with a top of plastic bottles or glass containers.

Cuttings are planted in early spring 20 cm deep (2-3 buds should remain above ground level), a distance of 10-15 cm is maintained between each seedling.We hide the seeds until the spring season.And get to know them briefly.

Of the tools we need only a sharp and of course clean garden knife, a couple of half-liter cans and fertilizers. So, let's take a step-by-step reproduction by this method in the spring, how exactly black currant pruning takes place, and the preparation of cuttings in water:

• Black currants reproduce very well and quickly with woody annual cuttings. Cuttings are taken from pure-grade high-yielding mother bushes. To do this, annual mature shoots are harvested from the mother bushes, usually growing from the base of the bush at the very surface of the earth.

Do not pour water into the center of the bush. Firstly, there are no sucking roots, and secondly, gaps are formed in the soil around the stems, through which water penetrates in autumn and then freezes in frost, which will have a bad effect on the health of the plant. Watering should be done along the perimeter of the crown.

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Propagation of currants by seeds

The downside of this method is that this method is able to give gardeners only one new plant.

Choose a healthy, sturdy shrub with regular, bountiful yields. Then pick up a 1-2 year old twig and bend it to the ground.

We water young shoots often, make sure that not only the ground is wet, but also the plant itself (carry out regular spraying). As soon as our roots grow, the watering intensity needs to be reduced, but you will have to water more abundantly. During this period, also increase the airing time of the disembarkation.

• Our cuttings need to be sprayed regularly (they need constant, high humidity). Moisten the shoots themselves 5-6 times every day during the propagation of currants for 3 weeks.

Before planting, the soil is carefully dug up and moistened (moist soil contributes to the faster development of roots). The surface is mulched with hot humus or peat bog on a layer of 3-5 cm (the mulch will perfectly keep the soil moist).

In March, we begin to prepare the material for sowing: we soak for 20 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

1. Problem for gardeners
2. The length of the blanks will be in the range of 10-15 cm. As for the apical cut, it should be done at a distance of about 10 mm. We always remember that we cut at an angle at the bottom, and straight at the top.
3. Shoots are cut either in the fall, when the leaves fall, or in early spring, before the buds begin to swell.
4. Stop watering only after the ovaries have fully grown and started to stain. At this point, watering is harmful, since the berries can crack right on the bushes from excess water in the cell sap.
5. It is better to do all pruning in spring or at the very beginning of summer, but not in August or early September, because with early autumn pruning, young shoots will grow at the ends of the branches, which will die in winter. With late autumn pruning, in November, frostbite of wood may occur through the wounds. In either case, the ends of the branches will have to be cut off again next spring. Why do double work? But in October, pruning can be done.
6. Performing this method of propagating currants will be more difficult than separating cuttings from a bush. But on the other hand, this method is faster, and the procedure will not require additional measures for stronger rooting of seedlings.
7. Prepare the trenches for the shoots in advance (the groove should be located radially and have a depth of 5-7 cm). Fill it with a nutrient mixture of organic and mineral fertilizers.
8. A month after planting, the seedlings will begin to grow actively. At this time, they need to be fed with liquid fertilizers once every 2-3 weeks.
9. Hide the young plant from the rays of the sun for the first time. After a few weeks, the cuttings will take root firmly.
10. Useful advice.
11. They are sown in a wooden container / box filled with fertile soil.

Breeding currants

Further, in the spring, our black currant stocks are placed in half-liter jars filled with water for reproduction. Do not try to make too many blanks and save space by placing more cuttings in each jar. If there are more than five or six of them, nothing good will come of it, because they will literally begin to oppress each other.

Propagation by lignified cuttings

They should be of healthy wood, over 5mm thick.

Currants do not like drying out of the top layer of the soil, so the soil under the bushes must be kept in a loose state. The easiest way is to mulch the soil under the bushes in the spring - you can use peat, sphagnum moss and even just newspapers.

If the branches grow inside the bush, then they only thicken the bush, but do not bear fruit, therefore, they should be cut out. If the branches overlap, then one of them should also be removed.

Experienced gardeners recommend using this breeding method if you need to get new plants as soon as possible, but there is no time for this at all.

Place the twig (the top of it should be cut off) in the prepared groove and pin it with a bow. Our layers will need to be sprinkled with soil twice:

• You can use complex additives ("Zdraven Turbo", "Fertika Lux"). They are diluted in a teaspoon per 5 liters of water.

At this time, we will reduce the frequency of watering and begin to feed the plantings with nitrogen-containing additives.

You can use a dark film that covers the landings. It will save not only the moisture of the earth, but also protect young cuttings from weeds.

• Immediately after sowing, fill them with a layer of soil, water and cover with a film (you can use glass). We put it in a shaded place.

In modern times is much sharper than even a few years ago. More and more new diseases appear, dangerous pests become more active.Now let's touch on the issue of feeding black currants, because in the issue of reproduction this is not the last point. It is clear that I want to get the most healthy and strong blanks for planting for the next season. However, with excessive introduction of fertilizers, the roots will simply die. This is also called puckered roots.

Shoots affected by pests - glass, have a brown or back door in the core and are not suitable for planting.

• When mulching with newspapers, you can also fight pests at the same time. The soil should be covered with newspapers during the period of the appearance of a green cone and the separation of buds (this simple technique will not allow pests to leave the soil after wintering). At the time of flowering, the newspapers should be removed, since at this time beneficial insects come to the surface of the soil. After flowering, the newspapers are returned under the bushes, but in order to prevent the evaporation of moisture from the soil. Newspapers can be replaced with black lutrasil, which prevents weeds from growing and allows watering directly over the material.

If root shoots do not grow, then it is necessary to make a strong pruning of several branches, shortening them by about a third of the length.If such a shortening pruning does not help, the balance between the aerial part and the roots should be disturbed by cutting one or two weak branches to the ground. The roots will turn out to be more powerful than the aboveground part, and, in order to restore balance, a new root shoot will immediately be pushed out of the soil.

Currant bushes must be separated with a saw or with a sharp pruner, while making sure that each section of the culture has a sufficient number of developed branches and roots.

Reproduction of currants by green cuttings

When the shoots grow 12-15 cm.

The concentration should be gradually increased (up to a tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

A month later, young seedlings can already be exposed to the sun (open them).Holes are cut in the cover above the young seedlings in order to monitor the reproduction of the currant and its development.

We regularly wipe the glass or film from condensation and moisten it by spraying.

To get, to collect a lot of fragrant berries - you need to pay close attention to this event.

• Conditionally, we will divide the entire breeding period into two stages: first, you keep the green cuttings in water, then transfer them to the soil suitable for black currants. In cans of water, the blanks will stay for about three weeks. Until the length of the roots reaches 15 mm.

The harvested shoots are cut into cuttings 18-20 cm long.

To the contentAn adult blackcurrant bush (which is 5-6 years old) should have about 12-15 shoots of different ages. How can this be achieved? Regular (annual) cutting of obsolete stems. As soon as you cut the old stem to the base, without leaving a hemp, a new root shoot appears from the soil, which must be shortened next spring, leaving only three or four buds above the ground. If too many root suckers appear, then no more than two should be left annually, the rest should be removed.

And keep in mind that the chances of perfectly taking root in the divided parts of the plant are much less than with the same cuttings.

• 2-3 weeks after the first hilling.

All feeding should be stopped in mid-August. And already next fall (stronger petioles can be planted in summer or spring), our shoots will be transferred to their permanent place in the garden.

Petioles are grown in planting pits in the spring, and by autumn they can already be transplanted to a personal plot.

This is how the blackcurrant varieties are cultivated. But it is better to postpone the selection of red species to the beginning of October. If the reproduction of red currants is done later, you can lose part of the planting material.

As soon as we see young shoots, we remove the cover. We move the containers closer to a bright place and keep them at room temperature.

Remember - a rich harvest begins with healthy seedlings obtained with competent selection!

Propagation of currants by apical cuttings

Further, in spring reproduction, the soil stage begins for cuttings, when the blanks of black currant are transferred into the soil, consisting of a mixture of peat and sand with humus. The first three parts, the other two - one at a time.

The top of the shoots usually does not go into planting, since for the most part they remain unripe.

• Firstly, immediately when planting a bush, I put 1 glass of "Aquadon", 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granular AVA fertilizer and 1 glass of ash. Then I water it well, but so that all this is not washed off with water. I plant the bush obliquely to give an opportunity for the growth of basal shoots, and again, gently, slowly, I water it.

How to distinguish an old stem from a young one?

It is possible to separate the shrub for reproduction in the autumn and spring months. This is usually done when transplanting currants to a fresh place.

1. Moisten them regularly by sprinkling them with moist soil (especially in dry, hot weather), remove weeds and mulch the soil.Do not forget to prepare the planting places with a dressing mixture and water the young currants abundantly at first.
2. This method is used for the cultivation of fragrant berries of any kind.When the seedlings are planted in spring before the autumn period, gardeners get already perfectly formed young shrubs.
3. When the cuttings of currants reach a height of 15 cm, we dive them in different pots.Currants are bred in various ways, and although this process is not so difficult, many gardeners, especially beginners, make a number of mistakes in the reproduction of culture.
4. We planted the first three days with intensified watering, we apply fertilizers. We take a nitroammophoska and introduce five grains each. About a month in cups, and your blanks are strong enough to plant in the soil. In advance, we prepare your cuttings obtained in the spring, gradually taking out blackcurrant seedlings to the street, this is the last stage of reproduction. Well, then the hardened planting material can be planted in a prepared place.The cuttings are buried in the sand in the basement or stored under the snow until planting.

"Aquadon" gives me the opportunity not to think about watering anymore for three weeks, and AVA fertilizer is generally applied once every three years, so I no longer worry about fertilizing, including microelements.

First, it has an old, gray bark. Secondly, there are practically no berries on the old shoot. This is clearly visible in the spring, since there are no flower brushes on the old shoots. Rings are visible on the branches - indicators of the number of years. Branches older than 5-6 years must be removed annually, otherwise the harvest will fall.

The plant is carefully dug out together with the root system, the roots are freed from the soil. Based on the size of the parent culture, the bush can be divided into 2, 3 or 4 parts.

We will dig out horizontal layers after they are thoroughly consolidated in the ground and turn into independent, strong seedlings (usually this happens in September-October).

Cutting propagation of currants is excellent for breeding all varieties of culture. The method has a very important advantage: the survival rate of seedlings in this case is 100%.

Breeding by layering

The green apical petiole is the upper part of the young one-year growth. This breeding method is quite complicated and troublesome.

They are transplanted from "cuttings" to their permanent place. Weaker plants can be left for next season.

• After the onset of stable warming (the second May decade), young currants can already be planted on the site (before planting, the plants are hardened for 8-10 days, arranging airing for them).

Our article will help you figure out how to choose a way to get strong young.

Currants are one of the healthiest berries. Black currant contains a huge amount of vitamin C. If you eat 20 berries every day, then the daily need for this vitamin will be provided. Every gardener tries to have this berry on his site.

It is recommended to arrange snow heaps from the side of the northern buildings. For a longer preservation of snow, the heaps are covered with manure, humus or sawdust, with a layer 30-40 cm thick.

I do not mulch the soil under the bushes and do not apply organic matter under them in the fall. Why? Yes, because I do not pull out the weeds, but cut them off with a Fokin flat cutter, burying it in the soil by about 2 cm.I leave the cut weeds right there, under the bushes and around them, just raking them a little from the center of the bush to its periphery. For this work, you can use any other suitable tool, only it must be well sharpened.

• Black currant bears fruit mainly on the growths of the previous year. They are clearly visible - they are lighter than the rest of the branches.The main indicator for cutting currants in the spring is the increase in the last year. If it is weak and small (about 10 cm), then you need to go down the branch to the place where a lot of fruit grows or a strong top grows (it always appears if things are not going well in the upper part of the branch), and cut off the upper part of the branch to of this place.

Do you know how best to feel how many parts a plant can be cut into? Slightly wiggle the bush to move the roots and twigs and listen to your feelings. You will understand by the vibration where the zones are located in which the bush should be cut for the propagation of currants.

♦ Vertical.

It is carried out by sprinkling 2-3-year-old cuttings from the mother plant in the spring.To successfully carry out such an event, you need a soil prepared in advance and special equipment capable of creating air humidity from 90%, soil from 80% in the place where the petioles will live.

If you have not kept up with the cultivation of a beauty with woody petioles, it does not matter. There is an opportunity to hold such an event with non-lignified green twigs.

• We prepare planting pits 40x40 cm in size, we place them in one row, a meter apart from each other in a sunny area.

Experienced gardeners do not recommend growing a black-eyed beauty using this method; seed selection is used by specialists to develop new species.

1. Cuttings are harvested in early autumn, and currant propagation by cuttings is carried out in the second half of September or in spring, in March, April.
2. Before planting cuttings, the soil is well fertilized and loosened. Blackcurrant cuttings are planted in spring and autumn. The best results are obtained from the autumn planting, since the plants start growing very early in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. In spring, cuttings should be planted before bud germination.

What does it give me? Cut weeds become a kind of mulch and protect the soil from drying out, and me from unnecessary watering. The cut topsoil replaces loosening the soil under the bushes. The weeds left under the bush, gradually rotting, provide organic fertilizer, and I do not need to apply organic matter under the bushes in the fall. Plus, I don't have to weed out the weeds and carry them onto the compost heap.

Black currant is quite frost-resistant. Its crown and growth buds are able to withstand frosts down to -40 degrees. Flower buds - up to -35 degrees, but the roots can withstand only -15 degrees of frost. The buds are kept up to 5 degrees below zero, and open flowers - up to 3 degrees. The most vulnerable are young ovaries, which can withstand only 2 degrees of frost.

Before doing this, free the culture from old, frail roots, shorten all young shoots to 30 cm.These shoots will give more new plants during the propagation of currants. They begin to grow from buds located in the lower zones of the shrub.

To achieve the best engraftment, the shoots are laid in dug grooves to a depth of 10-15 cm. The pits are made in the form of rays extending from the currant-mother. They are carefully sprinkled with soil. The trenches are filled with a mixture of muted humus, compost and peat in equal proportions.

• For the soil, it would be ideal to use a mixture of sown cleaned river sand and peat in equal parts.

Please note that the desired material should be flexible enough, not to break when bent. The breeding procedure is carried out in the following stages:

Once the sprouts are planted, water them abundantly. We moisten our plantings until the seedlings take root and begin to actively grow.

The culture obtained from seeds is not stable in its own biological characteristics: the taste, the size of the berries can deviate in any direction (most often for the worse).For cuttings, take annual basal shoots or annual growths. Cuttings up to 20 cm long are prepared from them.The upper part of the shoot is not used. Each cutting should have 5-6 buds. The upper cut must be made oblique above the kidney, the lower one - also oblique, but under the kidney. It is advisable to use a garden knife to cut the shoots so that the cuts are even and smooth. Before planting, cuttings should be kept in water or a cool place.

Cuttings are planted in rows, at a distance of 75-90cm and between plants in a row of 10-15cm. If the planting is carried out on the ridges, then the distance between the plants remains the same and between the rows - 20 cm. Cuttings are planted obliquely, approximately at an angle of 45 degrees, along the row, immersing them in the ground so that no more than two buds remain on the soil surface.

To the content

If, after a frosty winter, the wood on the cut is dark, then it died from too low a temperature, and the branch should be cut off gradually, until healthy, white wood.

Plant the divided parts in prepared planting areas and water them abundantly. The harvest from new plants can be obtained after a year (currants need time to recuperate).

Breeding by dividing shrubs

Choose a healthy crop and cut off the main part of the branches (10 cm from the soil level). This radical pruning stimulates the active growth of fresh branches.

• For reliability, the branches, from which we want to get young plants, are pinned with small wire or wooden segments (they need to be bent in V form and sprinkled with soil on top).

The prepared substrate is laid in a layer of 3-4 cm on peat-humus or sod-humus soil.

♦ Procurement of material.

This method is much more effective and efficient. With its help, it is possible to obtain several magnificent, strong petioles from one annual branch at once.

Typically, seedlings do not get the qualities of a mother plant.

• The cuttings are planted in prepared moist and loose soil at an angle of 45 degrees. Above the ground, you need to leave 2 buds, and the lower one should be at the level of the soil. By autumn, annual seedlings with several shoots grow from the cuttings. They can already be transplanted to a permanent place. In order to obtain biennial seedlings, you need to cut off annual shoots next spring, leaving 2-4 buds on each.

After planting, the ground around the cuttings is tightly squeezed. In an inclined position, it is easier to plant the cuttings at the desired depth, and in addition, the ends of the cuttings during this planting fall into the warmer soil layer, which is why they form roots faster.

Black currants are propagated by seeds, last year's cuttings (lignified cuttings), green cuttings that have grown in the current year, layering. Let's talk about the most common and reliable methods.

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Experienced gardening tips

To more clearly represent this method of breeding currants, I suggest watching a short video on this topic.

The vertical version is especially suitable for cultivating red currant varieties, its branches are not so elastic and do not bend down to the ground unimportantly.

When young shoots get stronger, take root and hit their growth, the potholders can be removed.

The process itself takes place in the following stages:

It is best to go looking for twigs in the early morning on cool days.

Cuttings are harvested in spring and autumn. In the spring, the reproduction of currants is usually done together with the cutting of the bush.

But you can experiment! This method helps to acquire improved, new plant configurations for your garden plot. Subsequently, they are bred already vegetatively.

Reproduction of currants by cuttings is simple, convenient and effective!

Currant pruning: how to do it right

When planting in autumn, the cuttings are slightly spud in order to avoid squeezing them on the ground during the winter - spring period.In the spring, after the soil has thawed, all cuttings planted in the fall are checked and corrected by those that have been squeezed onto the soil surface. During the entire period of growth of cuttings, the soil under them should be kept free from various weeds and in a loose state both in the aisles, as well as in the rows between plants. Watering them with liquid fertilizers has a great influence on the growth of bushes from cuttings. Watering rate is one bucket for 40-50 plants.

Propagation by cuttings.

If the bush is more than 20-25 years old, then it must be uprooted and burned, no rejuvenation will help. If the bush is about 15-17 years old, then first you need to cut out about a third of the stems, to the very base. Of the replacement shoots that appear, the three strongest should be left, the rest should be cut out.

How to propagate currants without mistakes. If you are new to this business, remember one important rule: the healthier, stronger the offspring will be, the richer and more abundant you should expect from him a harvest.

As soon as the vertical layers grow by more than 20-25 cm, the soil near them will need to be loosened and half-covered with well-moistened soil.By the fall, young, not yet strong roots will give layering. At this time, they should be carefully separated from the mother bush.

Procurement of material.

If the weather is cloudy, rainy, it allows you to harvest cuttings for propagation of currants at any time.

Cuttings are cut only from healthy annual shoots. We look after branches with a diameter of 6-9 mm and a length of about 25-30 cm for pruning.

When the shrub begins to bloom actively, shake it often (but very carefully). By doing this, you will achieve better pollination and an increase in the number of ovaries, fruits and seeds for the propagation of currants.

How to rejuvenate an old bush?

If you want to replace old, already poorly fruiting currant bushes on your site, or simply increase the number of bushes on your plantation, then you do not have to buy seedlings from nurseries.

By the fall of the cuttings, quite strong bushes are obtained, with two or three shoots and a strong root system. At this time, at the beginning of leaf fall, the plants are dug out of the nursery, with the strong ones being planted, and the weak ones can be transplanted for growing next year.

Cuttings of the last year are taken in early May from the ends of the branches, that is, from last year's increments. They should be as thick and as long as a pencil. The lower end is cut obliquely, and the upper end is cut straight. Remove all the leaves. In a specially prepared cuttings, they are planted obliquely, burying the three lower buds in the sand. Then all the cuttings are covered with a film stretched over arcs.

Then next year it is necessary to cut out another third of the old branches and again leave no more than three new shoots of replacement. And only in the third year, remove all other old stems. It is undesirable to cut off the entire bush at once, although it is possible.

It was guided by this statement that agricultural technicians were able to breed and obtain elite varieties of currants.

Care consists in the timely loosening of the soil and watering. In the fall, already rooted plants can be cut off and transplanted.

Currant care

And next spring, transplant new plants to permanent places.

The petioles for propagation of currants must be prepared at the moment when the one-year-old shoots acquire the necessary flexibility. The most suitable time for this: the beginning and the second half of June.

The length of the branches should be at least 15 cm with 3-4 leaves.

The branches should have healthy, intact buds. The branches are cut with a sharp knife or pruner at a distance of 1 cm above the bud (apical cut).

The action plan is as follows:

You can do the propagation of your favorite currant varieties yourself, while significantly saving your budget.

How do I care for black currants

In the same way, but with a smaller yield of planting material, red currants also multiply.If the black currant gives 100% rooting of the planted cuttings, then the red currant takes 40-50% rooting. Therefore, the method of reproduction by hilling the bush is often applied to red currants. This method is as follows. In early spring, before the buds begin to swell, the red currant bush is cut off near the surface of the ground, leaving 4-6cm stumps. New young shoots appear from these stumps.

The cuticle should not be exposed to the sun, and it should contain constantly moist air and soil. This can be achieved by building a self-made device for autowatering, or simply watering the sand every evening and sprinkling the cuttings with water. As soon as new leaves appear, the cuttings have taken root, and the film can be removed. In the fall, they can already be transplanted into place.

If frail basal shoots grow in the center of the bush, then they must be cut out immediately without leaving hemp. Weak, thin branches must also be removed by cutting them out to the point of attachment to the thicker branch.

Regardless of which way you will propagate your fragrant favorites, monitor the conditions for their maintenance (timely get rid of weeds, pests, monitor temperature conditions, watering, loosening, fertilizing).

♦ Arcuate.

Propagation of currants by cuttings and cuttings

Reproduction of black currant in this way will take only a year to get a new plant. But white and red forms will need more time for this (about 3 years).

Cut.The upper edge is carried out over the bud most from the top of the shoot (2 cm above it), the lower one - under this bud just below. When planting the branch in the ground, cut off the lower leaves.

We also need to completely remove the non-lignified top. An oblique cut is cut off the part under the lower kidney.

In the summer season, we look after bulk berries and select the strongest and largest ones.

In addition, you can always ask your friends or neighbors for a few branches of the vending and already proven varieties. I think they will not refuse.When these shoots become 10-12 cm in height, they are covered with loose, well-fertilized soil. In the future, as the young shoots grow, they are spud two or three times during the summer. The shoots housed in this way form roots in the ground along the entire length of the hilled part. In the fall, after the passage of leaf fall, such bushes are carefully huddled once, and each rooted shoot is cut out at the base along with the roots.

How to make a cutter? Choose a suitable place in the shade or partial shade. Dig up by selecting the roots and rhizomes of perennial weeds. Add well-rotted compost or manure. Water abundantly. Pour washed sand about 10–12 cm high on top. In this sand we will stick the cuttings.

Now you should take a close look at this branch, more precisely, at its upper part. If the upper part of the stem has few fruit (small fruit branches located throughout the stem), then it must also be cut off.

Harvesting cuttings of black currant for further reproduction

1. And then your efforts and care for the black-eyed beauty will pay off in full with an abundant tasty harvest!
2. With the arcuate method, the branch for propagation is bent to the ground in the form of an arc.
3. Before a responsible event, the soil near the bush selected for obtaining layering must be thoroughly loosened, nutritious additives must be added and watered abundantly.
4. The desired branches are cut early in the morning. They are kept moist until planting. The length of the planting material should be about 10-12 cm. The lower cut is made under the nodal bud (where the wood is denser to the touch).
5. Before planting, you need to soak the planting material in a growth stimulator (you can use butyric indolinic acid or "Heteroauxin"). We keep our shoots in this composition for about a day.
6. Reproduction of currants by cuttings occurs by the formation of roots in the area between the cutting nodes and the buds.

We wash the fruits under running water, and soak them there for a while.

Planting black currant cuttings

Now let's talk about what methods exist

With good care and proper hilling, from each bush, you can get from 20-50 pieces of annual rooted shoots. Cuttings of red currants, harvested from annual woody shoots, give good rooting when planted in autumn, in September. With such a planting, cuttings of red currants are rooted by almost 100%.

Reproduction by layering.

The bush grows old if new root shoots (shoots of zero order) do not appear from the ground. Strong pruning causes them to appear. After any trimming, all cut off parts must be burned immediately!

I found another great video about currants, which briefly tells about all stages of the life of this delicious berry and about its reproduction as well. Please take a look. In the next articles we will talk about the diseases and pests of our currants.

Red currant propagation tips

The most convex arcuate part of the shoot is laid in a prepared trench (its depth should be about 7 cm, and a diameter of 35 cm) and fastened with arches.

Reproduction of currants by layering can be carried out in three variations:

Rooting.

♦ Planting cuttings and care.

Planting and caring for black currants requires certain knowledge and skills. To get a rich harvest, it is important to comply with all the recommendations for planting and caring for young blackcurrant seedlings as much as possible.

Planting black currant

Blackcurrant bushes are planted in spring or autumn. In spring, the process is carried out before the juice starts to move in the plant and the buds open. In the autumn, the crop is planted in the ground in September or October. Autumn is considered the ideal time for planting currants, because a plant planted at this time of the year actively grows in spring.

Soil selection

The culture is considered unpretentious in terms of soil and a certain area in the garden. It will thrive well in the sun, in the shade and on wet soils (they should not be waterlogged).

However, it is better to find the optimal comfortable place for the shrub in order to get more harvest.

People choose:

1. Fertile land.
2. Protected from the wind.
3. A place with ample space, but also a bit darkened.
4. Allowed to land on a hill.
5. Requires soil with an acidity level of 6 - 6.5 pH.
6. It is not recommended to select too moist soils where groundwater flows close to the surface.
7. You can plant a crop separately from other plants, or you can allocate a place for it between the rows.

How to choose seedlings?

When buying, pay attention to the root system. It should be strong and strong, with two or three main branches up to 25 centimeters long.

There should be no dry and diseased roots with damage. Quality seedlings have fresh, wrinkle-free bark. Pinch off a little bark: if there is a green trunk under it, then the seedling is alive, and if the trunk is brown, you are offered an already dead plant.

Planting instructions

The preparatory work and the planting process itself include the following steps:

1. Dig holes 40 by 40 centimeters in size, about a meter apart.
2. Add a bucket of humus, 150 grams of superphosphate, 300 grams of wood ash, and limestone to the pit.
3. Mix all fertilizer with soil and water.
4. Lower the seedling into the prepared hole, tilting it at an angle of forty-five degrees.
5. Spread out the roots.
6. Cover the root system with an earthy mixture, making sure that all the voids are filled.
7. Pour ordinary earth on top of the hole.
8. Water the planting and mulch.

Spring care

The awakening of black currants from hibernation occurs very early, so the gardener must catch the time before the buds swell in order to get rid of damaged and diseased branches, as well as remove the buds injured by the kidney mite.

In spring, in addition to sanitary pruning, pruning is performed, with the help of which the bush is given the necessary shape. If hilling was carried out before winter, now you need to remove the soil from the trunk circle.

The soil is carefully dug up and covered with mulch with a layer of 5 - 10 centimeters. As a mulch, you can use humus or manure, which is laid out around the plant, observing a distance of 20 centimeters from the branches of the bush. Germinating weeds are promptly removed.

Black currant belongs to moisture-loving crops, so it must be watered regularly, especially in case of snowless winters and dry springs without precipitation. After watering, it is convenient to immediately weed and loosen the soil. Loosening is carried out about two to three times a week, but the mulched soil can be loosened less often.

Since currants wake up early, they are threatened by recurrent spring frosts. Gardeners protect crops from sudden temperature changes with polyethylene film.

After the beginning of flowering, the bush is carefully examined for the subsequent removal of branches that were struck by terry (the flowers changed shape: instead of bell-shaped ones, they became dividing ones). Supports are installed if the shrub clearly needs them.

Summer care

Summer care includes timely watering, followed by loosening and weeding. At this time, organic fertilizers are applied at the root.

You can resort to spraying the leaves with special foliar fertilizers: currants respond well to such feeding. In different containers, 3 grams of boric acid, 5 grams of potassium permanganate and 40 grams of copper sulfate are diluted in water.

Then all the components are mixed together in 10 liters of water and poured into a bottle with a spray bottle, with which the bushes are thoroughly sprayed. The procedure is carried out in the morning or in the evening, treating the leaves well on both sides.

If you notice traces of a moth moth on the currant, immediately destroy its nests. Be prepared for the invasion of sawflies, from which they are saved by treatment with special preparations, for example, "Aktellik" or "Karbofos".

Two milliliters of Actellic are dissolved in two liters of water. This solution is sufficient for a spray area of ​​ten square meters. A clear sign of the presence of parasites: deformation of the berries and premature staining in a brown color.

In July and August, it is time to harvest a juicy crop. The technology for picking black currants is different from the principles of harvesting red berries.

The fruits of black currant ripen at different times, so the crop is harvested selectively, and not with whole clusters. Select the container carefully. Wide baskets and boxes with a shallow depth are preferred so that the berries do not crumple under their own weight. After the harvest is complete, the bushes are watered abundantly, and after the soil dries out, they are thoroughly loosened.

Autumn care

In September or October, the currants are fed with fertilizers of a mineral or organic nature, then watered abundantly, and then dug up so that the fertilizers get into the soil. Autumn time involves the implementation of sanitary pruning.

Remove branches that thicken the shrub. They will serve as an excellent planting material that can be rooted in the fall. At this time, they are planted on a permanent plot of layering, dug in in the spring.

If there is little rainfall in the fall, water it abundantly before the onset of winter so that the plant can stock up on life-giving moisture.

Watering features

Black currant grows well in loose soil, which acquires such a structure with abundant watering, combined with loosening.If the shrub receives an insufficient amount of moisture, shoots and branches cease to grow, the crop becomes shallow and crumbles.

Watering at the beginning of summer, when the bush is actively growing and forming ovaries, is of great importance. During the period when fruits appear, that is, in June and July, great attention should be paid to watering. The soil should be moistened by about 35 - 45 centimeters, that is, to the entire depth of the root system. About 20-30 liters of water are consumed per square meter of land.

Around the bush, at a distance of 30 - 40 centimeters from the base, they dig peculiar grooves to a depth of 10 - 15 centimeters. If the currants are planted in rows, furrows can be made along the row spacing.

Water is poured into these grooves and beards during irrigation. After the soil dries up, it is loosened. The mulched area has to be loosened, weeded and watered much less often.

Nuances of feeding

In the planting season, if the hole was prepared according to all the rules, feeding will not be required. Starting from the second year of growth, it is necessary to add 40-50 grams of urea under each bush.

You can treat the bushes themselves with a 7% concentration of urea solution, but only before the juices begin to move through the plant. Adult shrubs, which are more than four years old, are fertilized with less urea. Under each bush, 25 to 40 grams of urea is applied, distributing this volume into two doses.

In the autumn, they resort to the use of organic fertilizers, applying 10 - 15 kilograms of manure, compost or poultry droppings per crop. From fertilizers of a mineral nature, 10 - 20 grams of potassium sulfate and 50 grams of superphosphate are consumed for each plant.

If in the spring the site was mulched with organic fertilizer, in the fall, the application of this type of fertilizer can be neglected. In the case when the currants were fed with humus in the fall, nitrogen fertilization is passed in the spring.

How to prune black currants?

The newly planted plants are shortened so that no more than two or three buds remain on each branch. On a culture that has been growing for the second year, from three to five of the strongest and most powerful shoots should remain, which in the future will form the skeleton of the bush. The remaining small and weak branches are cut off.

In the middle of the growing season, that is, in the summer, pinching is carried out on exactly two buds. This is necessary so that new shoots grow actively and fruit branches appear. In three-year and four-year-old bushes, currants are left from three to six of the strongest branches, the rest are removed.

The tips of the shoots that grew last year are pinched. When the fourth year of the life of the currant culture comes to an end, the bush is considered an adult and fully formed. After the fifth year, the plant requires anti-aging pruning, which consists in cutting out the oldest shoots.

If in the spring you have done all the necessary pruning, in the fall you just have to remove the damaged and diseased branches, that is, to carry out pruning for sanitary and thinning purposes.

If in the spring it was not possible to carry out all the measures, prune according to the above scheme in the fall, when the currants have lost all the leaves. Dried branches are allowed to be removed at any time of the year, but it is recommended to pinch the tops in the middle of summer. For pruning, use sterile pruning shears, garden knives or brush cutters.

Reproduction

You can propagate a culture in several ways: by cuttings, layering and dividing the bush. With the help of seeds, you can also grow a new bush, but there is no guarantee that it will inherit all the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. In addition, this method takes much longer than the ones listed above.

Cuttings

Cuttings are most often used to get a new currant bush.Shoots of the first year of life, growing at the very roots, are suitable for making cuttings. Cut the cuttings 15 to 20 centimeters long, making sure that the branches are at least 7 millimeters thick.

The process is recommended to be carried out in the fall, when the culture is already immersed in a dormant period. Using sterile garden shears, the cutting is trimmed one and a half centimeters above the bud.

In the same autumn, the cuttings are placed in the ground. If during this period it is not possible to find a new place for future young plants, planting can be postponed until spring.

The tips of the planting material should be dipped in a garden pitch, the cuttings should be tied together, put in damp paper and plastic wrap, and then stored in the refrigerator or buried in the snow.

In spring, cuttings are planted in open ground using the same technology as for adult currants. A polyethylene greenhouse is being built over them and waiting for rooting. Cuttings, which already have roots, are regularly watered, preventing the soil from drying out. As soon as they have one or two shoots, the cuttings are moved to a permanent place.

Layers

The method of propagation with the help of layering is considered the simplest and most effective, since the gardener manages to obtain seedlings with a strong root system in just a year.

In early spring, next to the currant bush, dig a hole 10 centimeters deep. On the side of the bush, select a powerful, healthy branch that is already two years old, lower it to the ground and place the middle of the branch in the hole, making sure that 20-30 centimeters of the shoot remain above the surface.

To prevent the escape from getting out of the ground, fix it with a wire and cover it with soil. The cuttings need to be watered regularly, then by the fall it will have a developed root system and two thick branches. Such a strong young plant can be separated from an adult bush and planted in a new place.

Dividing the bush

They are engaged in dividing the bush in the spring or autumn, when they are going to transplant an adult specimen. The bush is removed from the ground and, using a sterile ax, is divided into several parts. Each division must have a developed and powerful root system and strong shoots.

Places of cuts are treated with charcoal, young shoots are shortened by 30 centimeters, and diseased and damaged roots are removed. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered abundantly. The harvest from such young plants can be obtained after a year.

Black currant is considered a relatively unpretentious plant, therefore, with a minimum amount of effort, you can get a rich harvest of sweet and healthy berries.