Hydrangea miss saori planting and care in the open field

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The usual habitat of this amazingly beautifully flowering plant is gardens; for growing in the form of a room culture, only one variety is used - garden, or large-leaved, characterized by a rather compact form.

In Japan, this plant is usually called the violet sun, scientists call it Hydrangea, which in Latin means "a vessel with water". To flower growers, she is more familiar as Hortense. This name is also difficult, it is consonant with the name of the princess of the Roman Empire.

Biologists attribute Hydrangea to the genus of flowering plants, representatives of hydrangea are very numerous, they include about eight dozen flowering shrubs.

Content:

1. About large-leaved hydrangea - more
2. What is attractive about the variety
3. Hydrangea Miss Saori care
4. Hydrangea Miss Saori winter hardiness

About large-leaved hydrangea - more details

Large-leaved hydrangea is the most interesting member of the family, which can grow to the size of a small shrub and still have a very refined appearance. To do this, you just need to create the most favorable conditions for the growth and development of Saori.

France can be considered the birthplace of hydrangea. It was the French breeders who made every effort to create such a beautiful species of plants, which, with its appearance, conquered not only foreign inhabitants, but our domestic nature lovers.

The main differences between Miss Saori and other representatives of the species include the rather large size of the ovoid leaves of a rich green color. It is worth noting that the foliage has this color only in the spring and summer. With the arrival of autumn, it begins to acquire a red tint.

The exquisite large-leaved shrub blooms in rather large inflorescences, the diameter of which is approximately 30 cm. The main colors of the inflorescences are pink and white. A little less often you can find plants blooming in a gentle blue color.

What is attractive about the variety

Hydrangea Miss Saori is a very unusual variety, it is interesting for its sophistication. A distinctive feature is an interesting play of colors: large white matte flowers, placed on powerful beautiful stems, look very harmonious against the background of rich green foliage with a slight purple tint.

Interestingly, Miss Saori retains its color range regardless of the acidity of the soil in which it is planted. The decorative time is very long and lasts from June to September inclusive. The height of the shrub can reach one meter and therefore can become a very extraordinary decoration of any personal plot or greenhouse.

Hydrangea Miss Saori care

It is possible to grow a luxurious hydrangea that attracts attention and arouses admiration only if the process is approached correctly, i.e. certain knowledge of agricultural technology and care will need to be obtained. The first condition that needs to be met is the correct choice of location.

It is better to choose a place for planting in the shade, or where sunlight will fall on the plant only in a diffused form.

In principle, Miss Saori can also tolerate direct sunlight painlessly, but only if one condition is met: regular and high-quality watering.

The ideal soil for planting Miss Saori hydrangeas is slightly acidified. When disembarking, without fail, it is worth observing the distance between the bushes. It must be at least 1.5 meters. The plant is moisture-loving, so it should be watered regularly and with sufficient water.

If a sufficient amount of precipitation falls during the decorative period, the amount of watering of the flower can be reduced.

Feeding hydrangeas will not be superfluous. She will gladly accept all its types. It is better to apply fertilizers in early spring, when the plant is just beginning its active growth; then during the period of bud formation and towards the end of the summer period, so that the plant has enough strength to painlessly endure the winter period.

With regards to wintering: for the winter, the plant must be covered and high-quality mulching is performed, which will help to retain the required amount of moisture. If the flower bushes are still very small, you can simply cover them with dry earth. Larger plants are bent to the ground, a spanboard or lutrasil is used for cover.

Hydrangea Miss Saori winter hardiness

Representatives of winter-hardy varieties of hydrangea conquered gardeners in our regions at the end of the last century. Today the number of such varieties has reached twenty. It should be noted that each of these varieties differs from each other not only in the size and color of the inflorescences, but also in other characteristics.

For example, winter-hardy varieties can be used as a supplement to a seasonal rabatka. Or, for example, as the main material for creating an unusual design in the garden, planting exclusively remontant representatives of the variety.

The maximum subzero temperature that a hydrangea can easily survive can also fluctuate. North American breeders have developed varieties that can safely tolerate temperatures as low as -15oС.

Their European colleagues managed to achieve an even better result. They got varieties that can withstand frost around -20oС.

It should be noted that the specified temperature range is not a limit. There are several varieties that do well at lower temperatures. The most frost-resistant variety among hydrangeas is the Miss Saori variety.

It is quite possible to recommend it for growing to amateur gardeners living in geographical conditions with rather low winter temperatures.

We watch a video about the features of hydrangea care:

Large-leaved hydrangea is one of the most popular plants among gardeners. According to the description, it belongs to the hydrangea family. In addition to the large-leaved variety, there are paniculate, treelike, broad-leaved. Usually the plant looks like a small tree or shrub, but there are also vines. In the wild, large-leaved hydrangea is found in eastern and southern Asia, North America. It is grown as a house and garden plant. Hydrangeas need a minimum of conditions, so even a novice florist can take care of it.

1 Description and varieties

Large-leaved hydrangea is a bush that reaches a height of 20 to 80 cm. Leaves are bright green in color. The plant has low cold resistance, since the shoots of the current year are herbaceous. Inflorescences develop at their ends. They have a hemispherical, umbrella shape. The plant blooms in different ways, since the color depends on the level of acidity of the soil.

There are many varieties of large-leaved hydrangea:

Name	Peculiarities	Photo
Avantgarde	Inflorescences are large - up to 30 cm in diameter. They are green, white, blue, lilac
Blushing Bride Endless Summer	The flowers are semi-double, snow-white, but gradually turn pink. Because of this, the people also call the plant the reddened bride.
Blaumise	The bush reaches a height of 1.2 m. The inflorescences are lacy. Their diameter is up to 15 cm.The color is blue, but due to the soil it can turn pink or lilac with tints
Hot Red	The shrub usually does not grow more than 1 m.It has large fiery red inflorescences
Camilla	This is a relatively new ornamental variety. Shoots are located straight. Leaves are egg-shaped. Inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter, have a pinkish-red tint with a white edging. Due to the acidity level of the soil, it can acquire a pale purple color. The bush itself is up to 2 m high, but it can be grown in containers. Then its maximum height will be 60 cm.
General Vovomtesse de Vibraye	Spreading shrub, up to 2 m high. The crown has a spherical shape. All inflorescences are delicate pink or watery blue

Winter-hardy varieties are very popular, since they can be grown in the Urals, in the Moscow region, Siberia. These varieties include the following plants:

Name	Peculiarities	Photo
Nikko Blue	Suitable for growing in the garden, at home. The bush usually reaches 150 cm. The inflorescences are spherical. The color changes from snow-white to rich blue, and the grower can independently regulate it, lowering or increasing the level of acidity of the soil
Miss Saori	This variety is considered one of the newest - it was bred in 2014. The flower is the most cold-resistant: it can withstand up to -26 degrees. It does not react to the acidity level of the soil. Inflorescences are dull-whitish with pink edging. Suitable for growing in flowerpots on the street, veranda
Masya	This variety is considered to be remontant. Bushes up to 120 cm high, bloom from mid-summer to late October. The petals are bright, crimson, their edges are jagged. The variety is also susceptible to the level of acidity of the soil: in order for the inflorescences to remain saturated, the indicator should be 5.5
Romance Pink	This is a very showy variety. The bush grows rapidly and reaches 150 cm. The flowers are large, bright pink. The plant is frost-resistant and can withstand up to -25 degrees. The only drawback is the short flowering.
Tugese (Y & Me Tugese)	This is a variety with double inflorescences. The bush is very compact - only 90 cm high. At first, the flowers are green, then they turn blue and pink. It is unusual that different shades are found on the same plant

Another interesting variety is Aisha. In the wild, the bush can be up to 4 m, but when grown in the garden it reaches only 150 cm. Flowers change color depending on the level of acidity: they are blue, pink with red dots.

Alpengluchen is a cultivar with red buds. The bush grows up to 130 cm. Flowers on neutral soil have a dark pink color. The buds open in the first half of summer.

2 Planting and reproduction

Hydrangea can be grown by seed. Usually this method is used if it is not possible to get ready-made seedlings or cuttings, as well as for breeding purposes. It is recommended to grow seedlings at home first. You need to start work in the spring:

1. 1. Prepare a wide container. Make holes in its bottom for excess moisture to escape.
2. 2. Put a layer of drainage in the pots. Its thickness should be no more than 3 cm. It is recommended to use expanded clay, but it can be replaced with various small stones - pebbles, gravel, broken bricks and others.
3. 3. Fill the container with the substrate. It is recommended to mix 4 parts of leafy soil with 2 parts of peat soil and 1 part of coarse river sand. The soil needs to be moistened.
4. 4. Spread the seeds evenly over the substrate and sprinkle with the same mixture. The top layer should be very thin. It must be moistened with a spray bottle.
5. 5. Cover the container with transparent plastic wrap. It will have to be removed periodically to ventilate, remove condensation and moisten the substrate (it should always be slightly wet).

The optimum temperature for germination is + 15 ... + 20 degrees. Usually shoots appear in 1-1.5 months.In this case, the film must be removed. Plants will have to dive twice. The first time this should be done when the cotyledon leaves appear, and the second time - in May. At the last transplant, which is carried out when the plant has already had time to fully develop, it can be identified in open ground or in a pot and left at home.

When picking, you will need a separate container with a diameter of 7 cm. It is recommended to put young plants outside during the day. It is better to keep them in a place where there is no direct sunlight, draft and rain. In the evening, the seedlings need to be taken indoors. At home, hydrangea will grow for 2 years. In winter, you need to keep it in a bright, cool room. The buds that appear must be cut off so that they do not weaken the young plant.

The grown seedlings can be placed in open ground in a permanent place in the fall - 2 years after planting the seeds. When choosing a site for a large-leaved hydrangea, you need to take into account that it loves a lot of light, although it feels good in the shade. The soil should be loose, air and water permeable, fertile, with a large amount of organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic reaction. It is necessary to ensure that there are no tall trees or shrubs next to the hydrangea, since large plants will shade it, compete with it for moisture and nutritional components.

Landing in open ground is carried out as follows:

1. 1. Dig up the ground on the site and form holes. They should be 2 times larger than the earthen lump of the seedlings.
2. 2. Add peat, organic and mineral fertilizers to the pit, which are mixed with the garden soil.
3. 3. Remove the seedling together with the earthen clod from the container, shake it gently and lower it into the hole. Spread out the roots and sprinkle them with a substrate. It is best to use a mixture of garden soil and compost. The root collar should be slightly higher than ground level.
4. 4. Water the area abundantly and compact the soil.

Additionally, you can mulch the site. For this, bark or needles are suitable.

3 Care rules

Caring for large-leaved hydrangea is simple. It is enough to follow the minimum of mandatory rules:

1. 1. Watering. It is one of the most important conditions, since hydrangea is a moisture-loving culture. Watering should be regular and moderate. For each adult plant, you will need from 30 liters of liquid. It is recommended to use separated or filtered water at room temperature for irrigation. Rainwater is also suitable. It is best to water the flower 2 times a week if the summer is too hot.
2. 2. Loosening of the soil. This improves the access of the roots to oxygen.
3. 3. Top dressing. It is recommended to use complex mineral fertilizers. They are especially necessary during the formation of green mass, as well as during the formation of buds.
4. 4. Pruning. Inflorescences are formed on one-year-old shoots, so they cannot be pruned. It is imperative to remove frostbitten, dry, diseased branches, as well as all wilted buds. After a few years, you can rejuvenate by cutting off the branches completely.
5. 5. Shelter (preparation for winter). If the varieties are winter-hardy, then it will not be needed at all. In other cases, it is necessary to use spruce branches, dry leaves, peat and special insulation materials used in agriculture.

It is very important to prevent diseases and attacks of parasitic insects. This requires fungicidal agents (Fitoferm), insecticides (Aktellik).

author Arkatov I.S., photo of the author and Tim Bebel

Hydrangeas of different types are becoming more and more accessible to Russian plant lovers every year. In the species assortment of hydrangeas, large-leaved hydrangea attracts special attention of gardeners. It is presented on the modern market with many new varieties with various colors of inflorescences.

In recent years, there has been an abundance of materials on growing large-leaved hydrangea, but gardeners continue to ask me many questions about planting hydrangea seedlings and caring for the plant.Therefore, in this separate article, I want to draw the attention of readers of the Gardenia website. ru on the main points of agricultural technology of hydrangeas.

Planting seedlings of large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangeas should be planted in such a place in the garden that their bushes are illuminated by the sun only in the morning and in the evening (at least 6 hours a day).
In the direct midday sun, the leaves and inflorescences of the large-leaved hydrangea droop. With a drop in temperature in the evening and with sufficient soil moisture, the foliage of hydrangeas usually restores turgor, but the flowers may no longer recover ...

When planting a potted hydrangea in a garden, you need to do the following.

1. It is desirable that the young roots of the hydrangea seedling germinate as quickly as possible in the garden soil. Therefore, it is necessary to fill the planting hole with a nutritious and loose organic mixture composed of peat, humus, coniferous litter and garden soil. Before planting a seedling, you must decide in advance what color of inflorescences you want to have in the planted hydrangea. Later, after planting the seedlings, it can be difficult to change the acidity of the soil under the hydrangea.
To obtain pink and red inflorescences in a large-leaved hydrangea: the PH of the earthy mixture should be about 6.0-6.2 (if more than 6.4, the hydrangea may begin chlorosis due to a lack of iron in an accessible form).
To obtain blue, blue and purple inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangea: the PH of the earthy mixture should be about 5.2-5.5. Aluminum sulfate should be added to the soil. Water the plants with soft water with a pH not higher than 5.6.
It must be remembered that red and pink large-leaved hydrangeas in acidic soil, respectively, will have dark pink and pink-lilac flowers; they may not achieve the pure red and pure pink color of their varieties.

In the photo: red hydrangea "Red Sensation" in the garden; pink hydrangea "Early Sensation"

Hot weather also does not favor the development of red color in hydrangea inflorescences. Large-leaved hydrangea with white flowers does not change the color of the inflorescences (its flowers can turn pink only in autumn).

2. If your garden has clay soil, then in order to avoid stagnation of water near the roots of the hydrangea, make drainage at the bottom of the planting pit.

3. Before planting the hydrangea, very carefully, without injuring the young roots, straighten as many roots as possible from the seedling, curled around a clod of earth (after soaking it in a bucket of water).

4. When planting hydrangeas, carefully remove the old soil (as much as possible) from the top of the seedling pot to the young roots, replacing it with a prepared earthen mixture.

Watering a large-leaved hydrangea

When watering a garden hydrangea, remember that it is a very moisture-loving plant.
It is necessary to constantly keep the soil under the hydrangea and around the bush moist. This is facilitated by mulching the earth (with coniferous litter or bark).

It is necessary to spill the soil so that not only the soil around the hydrangea is moist, but also the clod of earth in which the hydrangea grew in a pot is saturated with water - where, after planting, its main root system is still located. Otherwise, this clod of earth (its composition differs from the planting mixture you have prepared) will remain dry in the planting pit!

If possible, use drip irrigation to care for your hydrangeas in your garden.

Pruning large-leaved hydrangea

For the first three years, the newly planted hydrangea is not pruned, except for pruning dried branches. Do not expect a lush flowering from a young plant until the bush takes root well.

Three years after planting the seedlings, ordinary (not remontant) large-leaved hydrangeas are pruned in Russia in the spring (unlike the Tim Bebel method). At the same time, the old hydrangea inflorescences left for the winter are cut off to the first living bud. Do sanitary pruning of dried branches.

If, in the spring, you cut off last year's branch from a remontant hydrangea, depriving it of the upper (apical) bud, then a little later, several peduncles are formed from the lateral buds on the same branch in the current season.
This way you can increase the number of inflorescences only in the remontant hydrangea. The same operation with ordinary hydrangea will bring the same result only next year.

Thus, you can determine which hydrangea is growing in your garden - repair or not.Indeed, among the old varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas with lost names, there are remontant ones.

Change in color of inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangeas with pink and red inflorescences can change the original color of their flowers to blue, blue and purple. Although there are varieties of hydrangeas with pink flowers that do not stain blue well.

To change the color of the inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangea, the soil under the seedling must be acidic.
Water the plant with a solution of aluminum sulfate (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) every week throughout the season.

Such hydrangeas are fed with fertilizers with a low phosphorus content (N: P: K = 25: 5: 30), because Excess phosphorus binds aluminum in the soil, preventing the color of large-leaved hydrangea from changing to blue or purple.

In order for hydrangeas to remain with their original pink or red color of flowers: it is necessary that the pH of the soil is 6.0-6.2. If necessary, alkalize the soil with dolomite flour or ash.
It is necessary to use fertilizers with a high phosphorus content (N: P: K = 10: 40: 10).

In the photo: hydrangea of ​​the Stargazer variety with different colors of inflorescences

The intensity of the color of the inflorescences in large-leaved hydrangeas is associated with the presence of different amounts of delphinidin pigment in different varieties.
When the color of the inflorescences changes, - during the transition from pink to blue, - the hydrangea inflorescences undergo a stage of lilac color.

All about hydrangea on the site

Planting varietal bushes of large-leaved hydrangea is a real opportunity to decorate your garden. However, often amateur flower growers, acquiring such a coveted seedling and planting it, are disappointed in the plant. And all because hydrangea has many features in growing and wintering, which you definitely need to know.

Choosing a place and planting large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved macrophyllas hydrangeas) must be planted so that the sun hits them only in the morning and evening (at least 6 hours).

Fill the planting hole with a nutritious and loose mixture of high peat, humus, coniferous litter and soil (2: 1: 1: 2).

If the site is clayey, drainage must be done to avoid stagnant water at the bottom of the planting pit.

Before planting, soak the root ball in a bucket of water and gently straighten the roots.

Carefully remove the old soil (as much as possible) from above the root system of the seedling to the young roots, replacing it with a prepared earthy mixture.

After planting, spill the soil so that not only the soil is moist, but also the clod of earth in which the hydrangea grew. Otherwise, this lump, which differs in composition from the planting mixture, will remain dry, which will destroy the seedling.

The plant is moisture-loving and it is important to keep the soil under the hydrangea and around the bush moist. Mulching with coniferous litter or bark also helps in this.

Reference by topic: Large-flowered hydrangea and panicle hydrangea - varieties

Crown formation

Many do not prune macrophylls, but only remove old and weakened branches, and at any time. However, there are rules. 1st year. After planting in the fall or early spring, the main growths are shortened by a strong bud (or two), the weak roots are cut out and mulched with humus. October-November: several strong growths and side branches of shoots have formed at the base over the summer - only the weakest and most asymmetrical are cut off. 2nd year. June - after flowering, strong shoots are formed from the base of the bush. In July, they need to be cut to the new powerful growths that have grown below.

3rd and all subsequent ones. In July, immediately after flowering, all faded shoots are removed to the healthy growths located below, and the weak ones are cut out. If the bush is thickened, cut out a quarter of all old shoots.

In hydrangeas blooming on last year's shoots, the inflorescences with four leaves are pruned at the end of July. In August, she begins to lay flower buds of the next year.If such a hydrangea is pruned in late autumn or done too radically, there will be no flowering next year.

Two ways to winter hydrangea shelter

In early November, in dry weather, bend the stems to the ground, placing spruce branches or covering material under the branches. Spread them around the perimeter of the bush, pinning them to the ground. Then - a covering material and a 10-20 cm layer of peat or compost soil. Above - a sheet of slate, so that it was relatively dry under the shelter, but there was enough ventilation. The tops of the shoots, where the flower buds are located, need to be insulated most carefully.

Build a frame over the bush. Cover the hydrangea with pine needles or dry leaves, and wrap the frame with non-woven material in two layers. Cover this structure from above from excess water. In the spring, open the bushes in stages, finally - after the spring frosts.

Reference by topic: Hydrangea (photo) cultivation and species

Forcing large-leaved hydrangea

For the plants brought to the house in January, I wash the branches from the mold with soapy water, my container. I transplant it into pots without drainage, so that there is close contact of the soil mixture with the pallet. Small plants are best planted in flowerpots with a volume of 3 liters.

Before awakening and deploying the buds, the bushes occasionally spray, otherwise some buds may dry out.

It is advisable to lengthen the daylight hours by additional lighting to 14-16 hours.

The apical bud should be left for the hydrangea to bloom. You can leave 2-3 side ones - inflorescences will appear on them later. I cut out the excess shoots on the bush, using them for cuttings.

A week after the transplant, I begin to feed with a weak solution of complex fertilizers, water with acidified water.

Remember, the cooler it is, the longer it will bloom. The best place is the north window.

If the flowers do not stain for a long time, the plant needs to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

Some varieties acquire their characteristic color only at pH 4.5-5.0.

Such hydrangeas bloom for 2-3 months, then begin to grow intensively. Faded inflorescences of hydrangeas, even before drying out, can be cut out along with a two-year-old branch. On a two-year hydrangea, I leave 4-5 branches, I delete the rest.

ON A NOTE

• With strong yellowing of the leaves, I focus on nitrogen fertilizers; if chlorosis does not disappear, I add trace elements;
• leaves turn purple - there is not enough phosphorus;
• if there is a burn at the edges of the sheet, it means that there is a lack of potassium.

Read also:

Pruning repair hydrangeas

Apical buds (first wave) bloom in them, then buds from lateral perennial and annual shoots and the last ones to appear below ground level. In July, branches without apical flower buds are cut off, leaving one lateral bud on each branch (closer to the ground). This stimulates the formation of flower buds, which will ripen by spring, and the formation of buds on the roots.

The following spring, this bush is fed weekly until August with fertilizers with trace elements and a high nitrogen content (NPK = 30: 10: 10). For the winter they fall asleep just above the cut branches. By the way, in cold regions, such pruning will allow less frost-resistant non-remontant varieties to bloom well.

Tub plant

It is important for the plant to overwinter in the cool, which is the key to the ripening of the shoots and good flowering in the next season. The air temperature should be no higher than + 5 degrees.

The tub hydrangea sheds its leaves in late autumn. After that, it can be transferred to the basement or left in the same room in the light.

Watering is rarely necessary, it is only important that the earthy clod does not dry out, otherwise the plant will die. The hydrangea comes out of dormancy in late February and early March. New leaves appear. If transferred to a warmer place, the bush will grow quickly. In March, you need to start feeding - once every 10 days.

Such a plant blooms in May, then you can put the tub in the garden, gradually accustoming you to the open sun. And all summer - a bush in bloom.

Many cuttings

A healthy hydrangea with a closed root system (in a pot), with proper care for the season, develops well. And by the fall, it has good roots and strong shoots. At the end of August or September, I remove all inflorescences and leaves from the bush.

The shoots must be ripe! Therefore, I cut off weak and unripe branches beforehand, otherwise they can rot. And then the whole buried bush can get sick.

I dig a trench and lay the bush at an angle of about 35 degrees, the roots are below the crown. I fall asleep the rhizome with loose fertile soil and compact it well for reliable contact, water it. I add some more soil and compact again. After that, I lay out each branch in the trench separately (in a fan) and cover the whole bush with earth. In the spring, when the soil warms up, young shoots will go from this bush completely buried in the ground. There will be as many separate stems, future bushes with independent roots, as there were buds on the mother plant. It remains only to divide the bush into divisions and plant. As a rule, all young hydrangeas obtained by this method bloom in the same year.

Propagation of hydrangea

Hydrangea layering

To do this, in the spring, you need to bend the young external flexible shoots from the growing bush and pin them with staples in a hole 15 cm deep.At the same time, at the point of contact with the soil on the underside of the shoot, you need to make an oblique incision with a length of 2-3 cm and insert a match into it. Damage to the tissue will accelerate root formation at this site. Tie the tops of the shoots to the pegs. Sprinkle the bases of the pinned shoots with a light mixture of soil and peat. Moisten the ground regularly (cover with foil to retain moisture). They can be detached and planted next spring.

Hydrangea seed

They are very small in hydrangea. I sow them in March without stratification.

Summer cuttings

Usually, from mid-June to mid-July, in cloudy weather or early in the morning, I cut green cuttings - annual shoots 10-12 cm long. I remove the lower leaves, a pair of upper leaves with full-fledged buds remain on the cuttings. For better rooting, I put them in the Kornevin solution for an hour or two. I plant it obliquely in a mixture of turf, peat and sand (1: 1: 1) to a depth of 5 cm.

It is advisable to root it in a cuticle, which will provide high humidity. Otherwise, you will have to spray the cuttings at least once a day. At a temperature of + 15-25 degrees, the roots appear after a month.

Autumn cuttings

At the end of September, there is still time for cuttings. I cut twigs (with 3-4 internodes) from ripe young shoots of the current year.

I make the lower cuts at an angle of 45 degrees, and directly under the kidney, and the upper cut is 1.5-2 cm above the kidney.The length of the cuttings is 25-30 cm, and the thickness is not thinner than a pencil, so that there is enough plastic mass and nutrients ... This allows for faster callus formation. I remove one or two pairs of leaves from the lower part of the cutting. If the upper leaves are large, I shorten it by half.

I put it in the root formation stimulant solution for 2-4 hours. You need to root in loose, humus-rich soil. Mature compost can be used. When planting the cuttings at an angle, I bury them in the soil by 10-12 cm. I water them, cover them and watch the humidity until the cold weather. Then I insulate it.

Reference by topic: Hydrangea (photo) - care and pruning

Hydrangea remontant varieties - photo and description

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Propagation of hydrangea with paniculate cuttings: How to propagate hydrangea with paniculate cuttingsV ... Pruning a hydrangea - how to correctly: How and when to prune a hydrangea View ... Growing hydrangea (photo) types and varieties: Hydrangea - planting and care, ... Hydrangea - growing and care: A few tips for flower growers on care ... Winter cuttings of hydrangeas - an unusual way: Unexpectedly: we root cuttings of hydrangeas in winter! Way, ... Hydrangea (photo) cultivation and types: Growing hydrangea and its varieties ... Hydrangea (photo) - care and pruning: Pancake hydrangea and petiolate gotensia ...

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