Hydrangea leaf garden planting and outdoor care

Do you want to decorate your garden with an unusual shrub? Try planting a hydrangea flower, planting and caring for which in the open field is simple, reproduction and growing of hydrangea can be done even by novice gardeners. You can find a fantastically beautiful flower by reading the description of the variety and considering its combination with other plants in landscape design. In the photo, the hydrangea looks like the queen of the garden.

Varieties and varieties of hydrangea

Hydrangea is an undoubted favorite among flowers in summer cottages. A long flowering period, a variety of shapes and tones attract special attention to it from gardeners and designers; more and more often, various varieties of this perennial are used in landscape design.

Blue hydrangea

Hydrangeas can be spherical, racemose, and white, lilac, red, two-colored in color. The most common in our latitudes is the tree hydrangea. Unpretentious, fairly easy to care for and grow, the plant is recommended for novice gardeners. Several varieties of shrubs have been bred by breeders:

• Bella Anna - a new variety of tree hydrangea, has rather large spherical inflorescences, the crown grows up to three meters in diameter, the color of the petals is from pale pink to purple-pink, blooms throughout the summer season and September;

Bella Anna variety

• "Anabel" - a lush blooming, spreading shrub about 1.5 m high, inflorescences in the form of a ball of snow-white color, blooms in early July and retains its color throughout the summer season until September. After the end of flowering, the leaves of the plant remain bright green throughout the fall. Variety "Anabel" is adapted for wintering, does not require special shelter for the winter, frost-resistant;

"Anabel"

• "Grandiflora" - differs in large crystal-white inflorescences, blooms for 4 months;

"Grandiflora"

• "Invincibel Spirit" - a new variety of hydrangea with pink petals;

"Invisibel Spirit"

• "Sterilis" - a variety with hemispherical, dense, heavy inflorescences, during the flowering period - from July to October - the petals radically change color: from pale green to crystal white.

"Sterilis"

Also, a fairly common perennial variety - Panicle hydrangea, planting and caring for which is quite simple. This flower is attractive with inflorescences of an unusual - paniculate - shape, frost-resistant, is distinguished by its rapid recovery even in unfavorable climatic conditions. An interesting feature of this hydrangea variety is the particularly long flowering period, during which the inflorescence changes its color. Does not need mulching for the winter. The most common varieties of panicle hydrangea are:

• Vanilla Fraze - variety with pale white and pink petals;

"Vanilla Fries"

• "Limelight" - the plant blooms in autumn, differs in large inflorescences of a pale lemon shade;

"Limelight"

• "Pinky Winky" - hydrangea with soft red petals.

"Pinky Winky"

How to plant correctly

Growing hydrangeas in the open field is possible even for novice gardeners. If a hydrangea is chosen for a flower garden, planting and caring for it will never be a burden, they will become favorite activities. The correct location should be chosen for planting the shrub. Hydrangea does not tolerate long shading, the best place to plant it is on the sunny side. Hydrangea propagation is carried out by separate bushes or cuttings. It is recommended to plant a flower in spring (in May) or in autumn (in warm September).

Even a novice gardener can plant a hydrangea.

To plant a hydrangea with a bush in the open field, you need to dig a planting hole about 60 cm deep, about half a meter wide and long. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters. A flower, growing with proper care, will occupy a much larger area than when planted. The pits should be filled with a special mixture, including peat, sand, soil, humus (1: 1: 2: 2) and fertilizers (landscape design experts recommend combining 20 g of urea, potassium sulphide each, add about 60 g of superphosphate in granules and 10 kg of humus ).

Attention: do not add lime to the soil mixture for hydrangea - it is detrimental to this plant.

When planting, it should be borne in mind that the root collar of the plant should be at ground level. After planting the hydrangea in open ground, it must be watered abundantly.

Tip: For the first two flowering seasons, it is recommended to pick off the inflorescences. The root system of the plant will get stronger and grow, which will subsequently give the bush strength and splendor.

Suitable care

Hydrangea care consists in weeding and loosening the soil around it, organizing a timely and correct watering regime. In addition, to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture, it is recommended to mulch the bush in early summer with peat or sawdust.

Fading flowers must be cut off so that they do not pull strength from the plant.

A perennial needs proper pruning. The plant should be pruned in the spring before the beginning of the growing season, removing old shoots and leaving young and strong ones, shortening them by 3-5 buds. Faded and dried bush inflorescences must be removed. Old perennial bushes must be cut almost at the root, leaving only low stumps, from which young shoots will develop.

Fertilizing and fertilizing hydrangeas

The hydrangea planted in prepared and fertilized soil for the first two years can not be fertilized or fed.
Then the procedure for feeding hydrangeas is as follows:

• in the spring it is necessary to apply a complex fertilizer containing micro- and macroelements (phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen) under each bush;
• the second time in a season, top dressing (potassium sulfate together with superphosphate) is applied during the period when buds appear on the bush;
• a couple of times it is advisable to feed the perennial with diluted chicken droppings or cow dung.

Hydrangea responds very well to feeding

Caution: Excessive fertilization of nitrogen can lead to greening of hydrangea petals and problems with the wintering of the plant.

It should also be borne in mind that hydrangea responds well to lactic acid, therefore it is important when growing it to periodically water the bush with soaked sour bread, milk whey, sour milk, kefir.

Propagation of hydrangea

Like other perennial shrubs, hydrangea can be propagated vegetatively (by cuttings, dividing the bush, layering) and seeds.

To grow shrubs from cuttings, it is necessary to cut the tops of young non-lignified shoots in mid-July and root them in specially prepared soil, consisting of coarse sand and peat. Experts recommend taking measures to increase soil moisture under the cuttings. For this, sphagnum moss is added to it. Cuttings are planted in such soil a little at an angle, at a small (up to 5 cm) distance and provide them with a temperature regime in the range of 16-20 ° C. 4-5 weeks are enough for rooting. After that, the hydrangea is planted in a permanent growing area and provided with proper care.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

When the hydrangea propagates by dividing the bush, part of it is separated, while it is important that there are 2-3 buds on the young shoots, they are dug up and transplanted to a new place.

For the propagation of hydrangeas by layering, it is necessary to bend one of the young shoots of the growing bush to the ground and dig it into a previously dug hole (up to 15-20 cm deep). To prevent the shoot from straightening, it can be fixed with staples. Experienced gardeners recommend making an incision on the part of the shoot that will be in the ground to speed up the rooting process. It is necessary to regularly water the branch, it can also be mulched. After the formation of its own root system at the branch, it is separated from the mother bush and planted in a new place.

Propagation of hydrangea by layering

Diseases and pests

As a rule, hydrangea is quite resistant to all sorts of pests and diseases. However, it can also become infected with chlorosis, downy mildew, spider mites, and green leaf aphids can appear on it.

Chlorosis is expressed in a sharp lightening of the leaves of the plant, the loss of their natural color. The reason for its development is the excessive content of lime or humus in the soil. To eliminate chlorosis, it is enough to water the plant with solutions of nitric acid potassium and copper sulfate in turn with an interval of three days.

Hydrangea disease - chlorosis

The cause of hydrangea disease with downy mildew is excess air humidity. For treatment, it is recommended to treat the hardwood surface with a solution of copper sulfate with the addition of soap.

Garlic infusion will help drive aphids from the plant. It is necessary to prepare a garlic infusion (200 g of chopped garlic in a bucket of water, let it brew for 2 days), add laundry soap (40 g) and irrigate the perennial with this infusion every 5-7 days until the aphids are destroyed.

Hydrangea: combination with other plants

In a flower garden or garden, hydrangea is quite effective both by itself and in combination with other flowers. For example, panicle hydrangea looks great next to clumps of purple-leaved barberries, viburnum vesicle. The beauty of the tree-like hydrangea is emphasized by daylilies, sheared barberry, undersized juniper.

Hydrangea in the design of the flower bed

Hydrangea in landscape design

Hydrangea is a fantastically beautiful flower that inspires beautiful compositions in landscaping. Taking into account the climatic conditions, in our latitudes it is recommended to plant a tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangea. Hydrangea looks magical in the photo in large compositions when it grows in the squares, surprising everyone with the size and beauty of its inflorescences.To emphasize the beauty of hydrangeas, you can surround it with borders of spirits, cotoneaster, and other shrubs. The hydrangea should be planted in a flower garden in the background so that it does not obscure other plants.

Hydrangea in landscape design

It is not recommended to combine hydrangea with yellow, red, orange flowers. Plants with bluish flowers, needles or leaves can successfully shade a shrub - for example, clematis, cereals, hosts, low-growing junipers.
The combination of hydrangea with pink phlox with a round shape of inflorescences, thujas, microbiota is considered a classic of landscape design. Also hydrangea is used in mixborders to create compositions along garden paths, can be grown as a hedge.

Hydrangea is the foundation of a beautiful garden. With proper care, it will delight you for years to come. Experiment with different varieties of this shrub, try to decorate your gazebo with climbing hydrangea, plant a tree-like one along the paths, create a living fence using a paniculata.

Garden hydrangea care: video

Garden hydrangea: photo

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, treelike, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid fertilizing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud a bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the foil and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

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Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND THE BEST VARIETIES OF HORTENSIA WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

Even in a very large garden area, it is impossible not to notice a flower bed decorated with large and multi-colored hydrangea caps. This wonderful beautiful plant is so mesmerizing to the eye that you simply cannot pass by it. Hydrangeas have more than 35 species, among which there are varieties that grow well and winter in the Urals and Siberia. But in whatever latitude of our country your garden is, before buying a beauty, you need to study all the features of planting, caring for and growing it.

Garden hydrangea: photos, types, varieties

Most hydrangea species are shrubs, but there are vines and small trees. All of them have beautiful large or small leaves, and flowers collected in paniculate or corymbose inflorescences. All inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots and have sterile or fertile flowers. Most often, their color can be white, pink or blue.

Among them, only tree hydrangea and paniculate hydrangea are grown as perennial plants in the gardens of central Russia.

Hydrangea tree - photo

The shrub, which grows up to one and a half meters in height, has large oval leaves, the length of which reaches 20 cm. Slightly pubescent leaf plates are distinguished by a heart-shaped notch at the base and jagged edges along the edges. From above they are green, and from below they have a bluish tint. Large sterile and small fertile flowers are collected in corymbose inflorescences, which bloom in the first half of July.

Most suitable for planting in the garden the following varieties of hydrangea tree-like:

1. Variety "White House" is a bush with a height of one to one and a half meters. At the ends of its shoots, large thyroid inflorescences are formed, consisting of snow-white sterile and creamy white fertile flowers.
2. InvincibelSpirit grows up to 0.9-1.2 m. Its large inflorescences consist of sterile flowers. At first, they have a bright pink color, and over time they fade to light pink.
3. Variety "Incrediboll" is a bush that reaches a height of 1.2-1.5 m, and has large spherical white inflorescences.
4. Heis Starburst is a short bush with slender shoots that can break under the weight of large inflorescences. The inflorescences, consisting of double flowers, reach 25 cm in diameter.
5. The Annabelle variety blooms with white sterile flowers, which form large inflorescences with a diameter of up to 25 cm.

Hydrangea paniculata - varieties, photo

Panicle hydrangea differs from tree hydrangea in inflorescences, which consist of large sterile and small fertile flowers, and grow up to 20-25 cm in length... During flowering, they can change color. For the first time days, the petals of flowers are white, after a while they acquire a pink tint, and by the end of flowering they turn green. Large leaves of paniculate species are distinguished by an ovoid or elliptical shape. Below they are heavily pubescent, and slightly above.

Garden varieties bloom from June to July, and bloom for a long time. Among them are:

1. Variety "Vanilla Freise" grows up to two meters and is distinguished by a conical inflorescence, on which flowers of a strawberry-pink color are densely located.
2. The Phantom variety is a bush with a spreading crown, growing up to 2.5 m. Its pyramidal large inflorescences have a creamy white hue at the beginning of flowering, and turn pink by autumn.
3. Variety "Pinky-Winky" is a bush up to 1.8 m high, on the shoots of which openwork conical purple-pink inflorescences are formed.
4. The Limelight variety is distinguished by dense greenish inflorescences, which turn pink by the end of the season.
5. The variety "Grandiflora" has been known among gardeners for a long time for its dense inflorescences, which consist of sterile flowers.
6. The Vims Red variety is a beautifully shaped bush that reaches a height of 2 m. From the ground to the very top, it is covered with delicate inflorescences that bloom in June. At first they have a white color, then they become deep pink, and after a while - burgundy-red.
7. The variety "White Lady" is distinguished by white inflorescences, which consist of a few flowers with jagged edges. Grows up to two meters.
8. The Kiushu variety is a bush with delicate inflorescences and erect shoots up to 2.5 m high.
9. The Great Star variety is a plant up to two meters in height. Its shoots are strewn with inflorescences, which consist of white flowers with petals in the shape of a "propeller".
10. Earley Sensation is distinguished by its early flowering and dark purple shoots. On its openwork, wide-cone-shaped inflorescences, purple-pink flowers are formed.
11. The variety "Diamond Rouge" is a bush up to 1.8 m high. Its dense, large inflorescences very quickly acquire a red hue.
12. The Daruma variety is a low-growing shrub with reddish leaves and small openwork inflorescences.The dark pink flowers become reddish over time.

Features of growing garden hydrangea

Those who decide to grow a hydrangea on their garden plot need follow certain rules her planting, placement and care. It should be remembered that only treelike and panicle hydrangeas grow in Siberia.

Planting and leaving

The plant loves well-lit areas with little shade. In sunny areas, hydrangeas grow well and bloom quickly, but from excessive heat they suffer from drying out of the soil and lose their turgor. Small inflorescences are formed in full shade.

The soil for planting shrubs must have an acidic reaction. Alkaline soil plant will suffer from chlorosis and bloom poorly... Neutral soil for hydrangea is unacceptable.

Hydrangeas planted on nutritious loams will take root well and will grow. Therefore, it is recommended to add clay during planting at the bottom of the pit.

Hydrangea belongs to moisture-loving plants, however, it is not recommended to plant it in areas with a high groundwater level. In addition, the wintering of the shrub directly depends on the moisture intake of the plant roots. The less moisture they accumulate in the fall, the better the plant will overwinter. That is why in autumn the soil around the bushes must be partially covered from precipitation.

Planting garden hydrangeas is done in the spring in pits, approximate the dimensions of which should be 50x50x70 cm... The plant is planted after the last frost has passed.

Store-bought plants with a closed root system can be planted until the end of summer, preparing deeper and wider pits for them. After planting, the bushes are well watered, and the soil around them is 6 cm covered with sawdust or peat mulch.

The distance between plants should be between one and one and a half meters. If the group planting was conceived as a "hedge", then the bushes are planted more densely.

Watering and feeding

During the season in the open field, the bushes are watered once a week. In hot months, the frequency of watering increases up to 2 times a week.

Hydrangea care includes mandatory feeding, which produced twice a year:

1. In May or June, during the budding period, the plant is fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
2. In summer, the bushes need potassium, which is added according to the instructions.

It is better not to apply ash under hydrangea bushes, since it reduces the acidity of the soil.

Pruning hydrangea

When caring for a hydrangea, you need to be especially careful about pruning a shrub. Pruning is done every spring. Some growers cut the bushes very short, as a result of which they are removed most flower buds... This cannot be done. It is recommended to approach each bush individually.

First of all, the frozen parts of the shoots are cut out from the plant. If after this there are enough powerful shoots, then last year's branches can be cut to the upper branch. With a small number of annual shoots, only inflorescences are removed from the faded branches.

Too old and thickening shoots are completely cut out. Annual shoots are not recommended to be cut out at all. It should be noted that inflorescences for bouquets can be cut during the entire period until autumn.

What to do to make the hydrangea change color?

Experienced flower growers know that by feeding bushes with pink inflorescences with certain fertilizers, as a result, you can get a plant, blooming with blue or blue flowers... To do this, starting in September, once every two weeks, the following is added to the soil:

• aluminum alum solution (2 pcs. for 1 liter of water);
• iron or aluminum sulfate (20-50 g).

If fertilizers are applied irregularly, then both blue and pink inflorescences will begin to form on the shrub.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Unfortunately, without shelter in the Urals and Siberia, hydrangea will not be able to overwinter.Therefore, caring for her in regions with cold winters includes preparing bushes for wintering.

Before sheltering the plant, it is necessary to feed it with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and remove all the leaves from them, leaving only the upper ones. This will help speed up the process of lignification of the shoots.

Paniculate and tree hydrangea grown in the southern regions can be simply huddle high or cover with peat... For regions with unpredictable and cold winters, you can choose one of the proposed methods:

1. Cover the trunk circle with spruce branches. Bend the shoots away from the center, secure with staples and cover with spruce branches. Cover the center of the bush with peat. Lutrasil is laid on top, which is pressed with bricks or boards.
2. Young small bushes are tied with a rope and carefully, without haste, are attracted and tied to boards lying on the ground, into which nails are driven. From above, the plants are thrown with sawdust or spruce branches, and covered with spunbond, lutrasil or a sheet of iron.
3. It will be difficult to pull powerful bushes to the ground, so a different method of shelter is used for them. The shoots are wrapped in lutrasil, fixed with tape or rope. A metal mesh is installed around the bush. Dry leaves are thrown inside the armament, and everything is covered with polyethylene or roofing felt from above. The frame should be 10-15 cm higher than the bushes.

When growing hydrangeas, you should know that every year it winter hardiness increases... Therefore, in some regions, over time, you can refuse to shelter bushes for the winter. But it is imperative to cover young plants.

Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests, however, may be amazed:

1. Aphids, which can be driven away by infusion of garlic. To do this, 200 g of chopped garlic is infused in a bucket of water for two days. You can add 40 g of laundry soap to the solution, and spray the plant once every 5-7 days.
2. Powdery mildew infects hydrangeas with excess air humidity. When it appears, the plant is treated with a solution of copper sulfate with soap or special fungicidal agents.
3. Sharply clarified hydrangea leaves indicate plant chlorosis. The leaves can lose their natural color due to the excessive content of humus or lime in the soil. Chlorosis is eliminated by alternately watering the plant every three days with copper sulfate and potassium nitrate.

The most beautiful hydrangea plant is excellent suitable for single and group plantings, goes well with low conifers and looks great against the background of stones. With proper planting and caring for it, you can admire the magnificent flowering and be proud of your flower garden all summer until autumn.

Garden hydrangea

In the literature, you can find the name hydrangia petiolaris - this, translated from the Latin language, is petiolar hydrangea (curly).

Climbing hydrangea is used as a hedge, to create pergolas or as a ground cover plant. This decorative liana is adapted for growing in the middle lane, so many varieties are wind-resistant and frost-resistant.

Such representatives are hydrangeas of the "Miranda" variety - a yellowish border on the leaf blade and the "Teik e Chance" variety - the color of the leaves is white marble.

Choosing a site for planting hydrangia petiolaris

Hydrangeas prefer places with diffused light, grow well in partial shade. Avoid planting these vines in the vicinity of large trees or bushes.

Light, loose, moderately moist soil with drainage is suitable.

It grows poorly on sandy soil and does not tolerate calcareous soils at all.

It is interesting: the color of hydrangea inflorescences depends on the pH of the soil. On neutral soils - white flowers, with an acid reaction, blue shades will be observed, and with an alkaline pH, the inflorescences turn pink.

It is good to use a mixture of humus, peat, fertile soil and sand as a substrate in a ratio of 2: 1: 2: 1.

Landing

Young plants are planted at the age of 2-3 years in open ground. This is done in early April or autumn.

This type of hydrangea is a climbing plant, so it is worthwhile to provide a support in advance. When group planting hydrangia, it is necessary to observe the interval between them. Usually one meter is enough.

A hole is dug half a meter deep, 50 cm wide, a drainage layer 5–10 cm thick is placed on the bottom. Broken brick, gravel, pebbles, expanded clay can be used as drainage. This is followed by a ten-centimeter layer of fertile soil. The roots of the seedling are carefully spread in the hole, they will grow in width.

Then they fill up the earth. The root collar should be at ground level.

It's important to know: hydrangea is a poisonous vine. It contains cyanogenic glycosides.

The basis for caring for hydrangeas is their timely pruning. But ground cover hydrangia only need sanitary care.

Watering

After planting, the plants are watered abundantly. For one plant about 20 liters of water.

The water should be soft, slightly acidic. Rainwater works well. It is necessary to water hydrangeas every week - this is a moisture-loving plant. In addition, seedlings need to be watered every other day, especially in dry weather.

Bloom from June to August, depending on the variety.

Note: an important step is mulching. The ground is covered with peat chips or sprinkled with crushed bark or sawdust. This procedure is needed to retain moisture in the soil.

Care

Further care of the seedlings includes:

• top dressing. It is recommended to apply complex mineral fertilizer 2–4 times per season. In the autumn, add 100 g of wood ash per square meter;

• loosening the soil. Usually carried out in parallel with weeding several times per season;

• pruning. To create powerful shoots in young hydrangeas, formative pruning is carried out in early spring, when the first buds have just appeared.
  For old vines, you can carry out anti-aging pruning.

Subject to all growing conditions and proper care, climbing hydrangea will delight with its motley colored leaves and fragrant abundant flowering every year.

From this video you will learn about the varieties and types of hydrangea:

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In the natural conditions of Sakhalin and Japan, this hydrangea - a deciduous liana with aerial roots and suckers, capable of climbing rocks and trees, and on open flat areas - creeping along the ground. The length of its shoots reaches 25 meters.

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Description and features of the variety

In culture, this plant - windproof, easily tolerating a gas-polluted atmosphere - a wonderful vertical "greenery" with fragrant honey inflorescences. In autumn, the foliage takes on a pale yellow color.

The cultivated "rock climber" is represented by a variety of decorative, abundantly flowering and variegated forms, including frost-resistant ones.

So, the foliage of the climbing hydrangea Miranda decorated with an irregular yellow or yellow-cream border, and Take a Chance has a white border or white marble color of the entire sheet plate. Both varieties are resistant to the typical temperature conditions of midwinter winters.

Planting and caring for climbing hydrangea

Seat selection

The place for planting climbing hydrangea for vertical gardening should provide for appropriate support (wall, arch, tree trunk) and enough good lighting - not only direct, but also diffused light, up to partial shade.

Due to competition for soil moisture, the proximity of large trees and garden shrubs is undesirable.

This flowering vine can also become a ground cover that strengthens the slopes.

Priming

The soil must be sufficient light, fertile, well-drained, acidic - for example, you can use a mixture of peat, humus and garden soil or mix humus, fertile soil, peat and sand in proportion 2:2:1:1.

Landing

The best time to land in open ground is early spring or autumn... The best option is two to three year old seedlings. The distance from one plant to another in a group planting is one meter.

The planting hole should be sized to provide sufficient space for the seedling's root system to grow. The usual scales are 40 cm long and 50 cm deep.

A ten-centimeter drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay, brick or ceramic battle is laid at the bottom.

In the prepared planting pit, a layer of soil mixture with a thickness of 10-15 cm is placed, and then a carefully spread moist root system, which will grow mainly in breadth.

They fill up the soil, carefully compacting it. As a result the root collar should be flush with the soil surface - but not deeper.

ATTENTION: Water abundantly, then the surface of the earth is mulched peat chips or crushed bark. This last operation is necessary in order for the soil under the bush to retain moisture longer.

Watering

IMPORTANT: Optimum irrigation the water should be soft, the ideal option is irrigation with rainwater.

Water from the water supply network should settle well and warm up, and from time to time it is useful add a small amount of lemon juice or vinegar.

In dry summers, systematic abundant watering is necessary: ​​two buckets of water for each liana weekly.

Spraying

In a dry summer, young seedlings need, in addition to watering, regular spraying.

Top dressing

Plant during the period of active growth responds well to monthly feeding complex mineral fertilizers that can be supplemented with organic compounds.

Growth and pruning

Young plants develop slowly and only by the age of three do they begin to form really long, powerful shoots.

An adult liana growing rapidly along vertical supports (up to a meter per season) regular intensive shaping pruning is necessary... In this case, the main stems are properly guided and tied up, and the "wrong" ones are cut, stimulating the further growth of new shoots in the right direction.

To ensure maximum coverage and powerful inflorescences, vigorous pruning is carried out in early spring, leaving some of the shoots with only two to six buds.

If this hydrangea is used as a ground cover plant, it is not subjected to targeted pruning, but only damaged, dried, weak shoots are removed.

Wintering

Adult curly hydrangeas do not need winter shelter, but young plants better bend to the ground and cover with spruce branches... It is also useful to mulch the root system area with peat chips.

Bloom

Blossoming season - summer: June July.

Coloration inflorescences depends on the acidity of the soil: flowers that are white in neutral ground take on blue tints in an acidic substrate.

This property of hydrangeas is widely used, especially since acidified, soft water is beneficial for plants.

Flowers are also "blue" with a special soil dye, which is available commercially.

Reproduction

Seeds of climbing hydrangea, as a rule, ripen in the middle lane, however, the seed method of reproduction is rarely used due to the short period during which the seeds remain viable. Sowing falls, in this case, in the fall. As a result germinating seeds and preserving seedlings requires a lot of effort maintaining light, temperature and humidity conditions. Therefore, these hydrangeas practically multiply. vegetatively: layering and cuttings.

• Reproduction by layering. In early May or August, the lower branch is bent to the ground, slightly incised in the middle and fixed. Then it is slightly buried and added dropwise in this place.The top of the branch is tied to a support to give it an upright position. By the next spring, the buried part forms a sufficient root system and then the new plant can be separated from the mother.
• Propagation by cuttingsand. Summer, June, cuttings up to 15 cm long are cut from lignified shoots. The lower sections are treated with a rooting stimulant. They are planted obliquely in a nutritious soil and covered; maintain humidity, ventilate and, before the formation of the first new shoots, protect from direct sunlight. Rooting usually takes no more than a month.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea in an area with optimal conditions for it is resistant to diseases.

If the soil is limescale or oversaturated with humus, the plant may develop chlorosis, in which the leaves, with the exception of the central vein, become yellow-light.

In this case, watering is carried out potassium nitrate solution with a concentration of 4g / l, and after 3 days - ferrous sulfate solution the same concentration.

Downy mildew, in which dark oily, gradually spreading spots are formed on the leaves and stems, it affects the hydrangea at a temperature of 18-20 degrees in combination with high atmospheric humidity.

An effective remedy for this disease is spraying with copper-soap solution: 15 g copper sulfate and 150 g green soap in a bucket of water.

Gray rot, which also develops in summer with high air humidity, requires the removal of affected leaves and shoots, followed by treatment of the bush fungicides.

If the air humidity is low, the plant settles aphids and spider miteswhich can be removed with soapy water.

However, the most effective in such cases is the use of systemic insecticides.

As a preventive measure, you should get rid of weeds that serve as a haven and breeding ground for these pests.

Climbing hydrangea (petiolate, climbing) is one of the few frost-resistant vines that bloom profusely in the cool summer of the middle zone.

The cultivation of spectacular variegated, aromatic honey varieties in garden culture is not very difficult.

A plant planted in acidified, fertile, drained, well-hydrated soil responds to optimal conditions with lush growth and lush flowering.

Photo

For more photos of curly hydrangea, see below:

Useful video

You can look at the petioled hydrangea in the video:

Helpful information

You can familiarize yourself with other materials about garden hydrangea:

1. How to properly care for Bobo panicle hydrangea? Growing and preparing for winter
2. How to properly care for my Limelight hydrangea?
3. How does Oakleaf hydrangea winter?
4. Frost-resistant Pinky Winky hydrangea on your site
5. Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora - features of care and reproduction in the garden
6. Hydrangea tree annabelle - a snow-white decoration of your site
7. Tree hydrangea in your garden - planting and care, reproduction, wintering
8. How to make friends with a serrated hydrangea?
9. Japanese hydrangea Kyushu in your garden
10. Frost-resistant hydrangea large-leaved
11. How to properly care for a phantom panicle hydrangea? Planting, wintering, reproduction
12. How to properly care for panicle hydrangea vanilla fries?
13. Fragrant "princess" hydrangea paniculata in your garden: care features
14. Breeding secrets of garden hydrangea
15. Garden hydrangea: planting and care, neighborhood in the garden
16. Don't let your garden hydrangea freeze! How to cover a hydrangea for the winter?
17. How to protect your garden hydrangea from diseases and pests?

Hydrangea creeping or petiole is an unusual plant. She smells of honey, grows up to 10 m, and is beautiful both in the photo and in the garden. She needs proper care to grow well. The article will tell you about the nuances of planting and growing hydrangeas.

Varieties and varieties of petioled hydrangea

This plant is a subspecies of garden hydrangea. And in the photo and in reality, it looks like a liana, which can braid trees and various objects in the garden, decorate a hedge, grow along the wall of the house. Aerial roots and special suction cups help her in this. Stalked hydrangea is characterized by high winter hardiness, adult bushes can withstand not long-term frosts down to -30 °. Thanks to its dense foliage, this plant shades windows well, not letting the summer heat into the house.

The most popular are the following varieties of petiole hydrangea:

• Miranda. Has a sweet smell. The leaves are dark, light green, with white veins, wide, pointed in shape;

Variety Miranda

• Curly liana. It has an interesting feature: with the help of various dyes, the white flowers of this hydrangea can be given any shade;
• Cordifolia. Its inflorescences look like small panicles and smell delicious of honey;

Cordifolia variety

• Petiolaris. A favorite of landscape designers. This is the tallest variety of petioled hydrangea, it grows up to 25 m. It spreads along the ground or braids trees.

Planting a plant

• The best time for this is spring. The place should be protected from wind and direct sunlight. Absolute shade will not work as the hydrangea will not bloom abundantly.
• Choose a loose, moist, slightly acidic soil. Its optimal composition is peat, sand and earth, in which the plant was located before planting. Mix everything in equal parts.

Attention! A planting hole for a hydrangea, which is rooted from a container, should be 2 times the size of the container.

• The roots should be spread in different directions. Deepening the root collar when planting a seedling is permissible only by 2-3 cm. Otherwise, the plant will develop poorly.
• The ground around must be carefully tamped in order to prevent the appearance of empty spaces: because of them, the roots may be deficient in moisture.

Planting hydrangeas in the spring

• After planting, the bush needs to be watered well. Hydrangea loves moisture very much, so it is advisable to saturate the soil with water to a depth of about 0.5 m.
• The plant will gratefully respond to mulching with peat or, for example, bark. The approximate layer thickness is 7-10 cm.

Advice. The best time to apply mulch is late spring. In the fall, add it after a stable subzero temperature is established.

Hydrangea care

The basis of caring for this plant is watering about once every 10-15 days. In the first year, it must be very thorough. Hydrangea roots cannot take enough moisture from the soil. Therefore, saving on watering, you run the risk of ruining a young seedling.

Advice. In the warm season, petiole hydrangea requires a particularly large amount of moisture and air. If possible, install a sprayer next to the seedling.

If your plant, as if in a picture or photo, spreads over a beautiful carpet, you do not need to cut it off. You should only periodically remove dead or diseased processes. If the hydrangea grows vertically, its shoots must be regularly shortened, directed their growth in the right direction and be sure to make support for them. Pruning promotes abundant lateral branches, which create a dense canopy.

Hydrangea tolerates haircuts very well

Despite the fact that the petioled hydrangea is considered to be quite resistant to frost and is grown even in Siberia, young plants in the first few years still need to be covered for the winter. To do this, shoots should be carefully laid on boards and covered with spruce branches or fallen leaves. This is especially true for those owners of personal plots who live in the northern regions.

Fertilizing and feeding petiolate hydrangea

In order for the liana to bloom magnificently and develop well, it needs top dressing with organics and minerals. You can use special ready-made fertilizers for hydrangeas.They contain a lot of magnesium and iron, thanks to which the plant grows quickly, and its foliage has a rich color. It is useful to apply fertilizers before planting, as well as during intensive development.

Feed your hydrangea several times per season

Plan the first feeding in late spring or early summer. To do this, use 1 part poultry manure diluted with 10 parts water. Also add a mineral fertilizer consisting of superphosphate, potassium nitrate and urea to the soil. The proportions are 2: 1: 1. Re-apply top dressing, observing the interval of 1 time in 2 weeks.

Advice. To make the hydrangea woody for the winter, stop fertilizing it from late summer or early August.

Plant propagation

Hydrangea breeding methods are traditional, as for many horticultural crops:

• division;
• cuttings;
• reproduction by layering.

If a bush gives abundant growth, good seedlings can be obtained by separating young shoots from it. They need to be shortened to several buds, and the root should be cut a little and treated with potassium permanganate. Having planted the shoots in the holes, they should be abundantly moistened within a month. The best time for this is spring.

It is most convenient to propagate hydrangea by layering.

When choosing a grafting method, use a maximum of 15 cm cuttings that are lignified. The beginning of summer is optimal for this breeding method. From the shoot, which has 2 nodes, you need to cut off the top and remove a couple of lower leaves. The stalk treated with a growth stimulant is placed in a box with peat and sand. It is necessary to monitor the moisture content of the mixture, and cover the container itself with a film. It is removed when the plant gets stronger.

For reproduction by layering, you need to very carefully pin the lower branch to the ground. Please note that the soil must be moist and loose. Where the branch touches the ground, an incision is made and mulched with peat. It is better to do this in early May or August.

Diseases and pests of hydrangea

If the leaves of your plant have lightened, it is likely that chlorosis has overcome it. This disease occurs if the soil contains a lot of humus. Another reason is the excess of lime in the ground. Hydrangea is very sensitive to this component. Sometimes the vine is damaged by powdery mildew or gray rot. To prevent this, do not overdo nitrogen fertilization and watering, especially during the rainy season. To fight diseases, you can use, for example, Bordeaux liquid.

Hydrangea bloom

Hydrangea is susceptible to insect attacks, including spider mites, thrips and aphids. The latter is more prevalent in indoor plants. To destroy pests, you need to apply insecticides. Every season, do 2 treatments at intervals of a week. By following all the recommendations, you will get a healthier and more beautiful plant that will become a luxurious accent of your garden.

Hydrangea in the garden: video

Types and varieties of hydrangea: photo

Curly hydrangea is currently very popular. The plant is quite wind-resistant and is an excellent vertical gardener of the garden with fragrant inflorescences. In the autumn, the leaves have a pale yellow tint.

In natural conditions, it grows on Sakhalin and Japan. It is a deciduous vine with aerial roots and suckers, capable of climbing trees and rocks, and on open flat surfaces - to creep along the surface. Shoots can be up to 25 meters long.

Manifold

There are many decorative forms of this plant, abundantly flowering and variegated, as well as frost-resistant.

Known species:

• "Miranda" - has foliage with an uneven yellow border;
• "Take a Chance" - has a white border or white - marbled foliage.

These species are quite resistant to the natural conditions of central Russia.

Pick-up location

Before planting a climbing hydrangea in your garden, you need to worry about the presence of a support nearby, for example, a wall or an arch.The site chosen for planting must be well lit.

It must be remembered that hydrangea loves moisture very much. Therefore, it is better to avoid the presence of other neighboring plants next to it.

When growing, it is worth considering the nuances that will help avoid rotting or drying out of the plant.

This flowering vine can also become a groundcover that strengthens the slopes.

Planting soil

Hydrangea prefers light, well-drained, fertile soil with an acidic reaction. Acidification ensures the introduction of peat or humus.

Landing

The best time to plant hydrangeas outdoors is early spring or early fall. The planting hole should be deep enough to allow the free position of the root system. Its dimensions should be at least 40 x 50 cm. To ensure good drainage, pebbles or expanded clay should be laid at the very bottom.

A soil mixture is placed on top with a layer of 10-15 cm, the root system is carefully placed on it and the soil is poured. At the end, it is well sealed. The root collar should be at ground level, not deeper. The planted plant is watered abundantly, and the surface of the soil is sprinkled with crushed bark to maintain moisture for a long time.

For group plantings, the distance between seedlings should be at least 1 meter.

Care

Plants should be watered with soft water, which is why rainwater is the best option. The water from the well must certainly be warmed up. To acidify it, you can add lemon juice or a small amount of vinegar. In summer, hydrangea should be watered abundantly. In addition to watering, the plant also needs daily spraying. The plant should be fed with complex mineral fertilizers - once a month, organic compounds can also be used. Educated Long, powerful shoots of hydrangea should be pruned regularly to stimulate further growth and formation of the vine. The main shoots are tied up and properly guided.

June - July is the most blooming season for hydrangeas. It is at this moment that she will delight you with her amazing colors and will serve as an excellent decoration on your site.

The color of the inflorescences directly depends on the acidity of the earth. For example, white inflorescences in neutral soil take on a bluish tint in an acidic substrate. Flowers can be tinted with a special potting dye available from the store.

Reproduction

Curly hydrangea can reproduce:

• Seeds;
• Layers;
• Cuttings.

The seed method is rarely used due to the fact that hydrangea seeds quickly lose their germination.

Reproduction by layering as in Kampsis. At the very beginning of May or at the end of summer, bend the lower branch to the ground, cut it a little in the middle and fix it. Then they are buried in this place. The very top of the plant is fixed to the support. The next spring, when the buried part forms the root system, the daughter plant can be separated from the mother and planted separately.

Propagation by cuttings. In June, cuttings up to 10-15 centimeters long are cut from the shoots. The lower, cut parts are treated with a root formation stimulator.

Then, the cuttings are planted in a nutritious soil and covered with a film. Rooting takes place within 30 days.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is quite disease resistant. The most common ones are:

• Chlorosis - occurs when the soil is oversaturated with humus; characterized by the appearance of light yellow foliage;
• Downy mildew - appears at a temperature of 18-20 degrees and high humidity; characterized by the appearance of dark oily spots on the leaves and stems;
• Gray rot - develops in high humidity.

In the fight against diseases, help:

• Solutions of potassium nitrate and ferrous sulfate with chlorosis;
• Copper-soap solutions for downy mildew;
• Fungicides for gray rot.

In cases where the air humidity is low enough, then there is a high probability of being affected by aphids and spider mites. They are removed with soap solutions or systemic insecticides.

For the prevention of diseases, weeds should be got rid of in time.

Wintering

An adult climbing hydrangea does not need shelter for the winter, and young plants must be bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches.

Thus, the cultivation of a variegated, fragrant beauty as a garden crop is not very difficult. And for the care and optimally created conditions, the hydrangea is responsible for lush growth and lush flowering.