Blueberries planting and care in the open field in the suburbs

Blueberry is an incredibly healthy berry, thanks to its rich composition, it has gained immense popularity among adherents of a healthy diet. For a long time, blueberries were considered a northern exotic., but thanks to the work of breeders who bred garden varieties of plants, everyone can now grow this berry on their site. To do this, it is necessary to consider the features of garden blueberries, the rules of planting and care, as well as the varieties most suitable for growing in the Moscow region.

How is garden blueberry different from its wild cousin?

Wild blueberries grows only in the northern hemisphere, it can be found in Iceland, Great Britain, North America and in the northern and Far Eastern regions of Russia. The plant is very unpretentious, and in nature it prefers to grow in swampy areas. Easily withstands low temperatures, so it feels great even in the tundra.

Unpretentiousness and frost resistance are also inherited by garden blueberries. Besides, some characteristics of the plant have been improved by breeders:

1. Escapes became taller (70 cm instead of 25-30 cm), and the number of berries on one stem increased, which had a positive effect on the yield of the plant. It reaches 12 kg per bush.
2. Home berries are large and fleshy, you will not find this in nature.
3. Garden varieties begin to bear fruit already for 2-3 years, the wild variety bears fruit only for 15 years of life.
4. Bred varieties differ resistance to pests and diseases.

But in some ways the garden plant is inferior to its progenitor:

1. The usefulness of fruits... Berries grown in natural conditions will always contain more vitamins than homemade ones.
2. Life span... The wild blueberry bush bears fruit for more than 50 years, but the garden blueberry cannot boast of such longevity. A home plant must be transplanted every 6 years with cutting of new cuttings, otherwise the yield will drop sharply and the fruits will shrink.

In any case, planting blueberries in your garden is a profitable event, especially when you consider the market value of fresh berries. And in the care of the plant is absolutely not capricious.

Planting garden blueberries in spring and autumn

The success of the landing depends, first of all, on the correct location. Where to plant this plant? Choose an area with good light and wind protection for blueberries.

Many gardeners mistakenly believe that since a wild berry grows in swamps, then in the garden for the plant, you need to choose the wettest and most shaded place, for example, under a tree. But in such conditions, if home blueberries do not die, then they will definitely not give a good harvest.

Be sure to check the acidity level of the soil. The plant requires an acidic soil with a pH of 3.5-4.5... If your soil is inadequate, it can be acidified. Colloidal sulfur or battery electrolyte (sulfuric acid only) is suitable for this. 1 ml of electrolyte diluted in 1 liter of water lowers soil pH by 2 points.

Another important point - the site should be rested, that is, for the past several years, nothing should have been grown on it.

Both spring and autumn are suitable for planting. But spring planting is preferable, as it allows the plant to grow strong enough for the winter.

When planting blueberries in the spring, you need to have time to do this before the buds swell. For the Moscow region, this is mid-April. It is better to buy a seedling in a pot, its root system will be more viable. Place the pot in a container of water for 30 minutes before planting., then take out the young plant, straighten the roots and carefully clean them from the ground.

Planting garden blueberries

The landing procedure itself is as follows:

1. Dig a hole 50 cm deep... When planting several plants at once, it is necessary to make a distance of 50 cm between the holes for undersized varieties and 1 meter for tall ones.
2. Loosen the bottom of the hole and put the peat bog there, mixed with sawdust and needles. Then add sulfur in an amount of 50 g and mix everything thoroughly again. This will create ideal acidic conditions in which blueberries will thrive.
3. Place a seedling in the hole, straighten its roots and cover with soil.
4. Water and mulch liberally using coniferous sawdust.

In the future, the seedlings need watering every 2 weeks. In this case, the water must be enriched with citric acid or apple cider vinegar (20 g per 5 liters of water).

If you nevertheless decide to plant the plant in the fall, then you need to do this a month before the stable cold weather, that is, during October. Autumn planting technology includes all the same actions, only at the end, pruning of a one-year-old seedling is still required. Remove weak branches with pruning shears, and shorten the strong ones in half.

If you have purchased a 2-year-old seedling, it does not need to be pruned after planting.

If all the conditions are met, blueberries will grow rapidly and next year we will delight you with the first small harvest. And in order for the yield to reach a high level in the future, the plant must be provided with proper care.

Adult plant care, cultivation features

Blueberry care includes standard procedures.

Watering

It is needed every 2 weeks, even if the weather is rainy. And in the hot dry period, the plant needs to be moistened 2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening, when the sun's rays are not too scalding. Water rate - 1 bucket per bush.

Loosening the soil

It must be done several times per season. It should be borne in mind that the root system of blueberries is located close to the surface, about 20 cm.Therefore, you should not penetrate deeper than 10 cm into the ground.

Weeding

Weeds prevent the root system from getting enough nutrition, get rid of them regularly.

Top dressing

Fertilizers should be applied in early spring. The easiest way to stimulate plant growth is with superphosphate., zinc sulfate, ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate.

In the first year after planting blueberries, it is enough to use mineral fertilizers, applying them in early spring

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in 3 stages:

• during the period of swelling of the kidneys in early spring;
• in early May;
• At the beginning of June.

For blueberries, only mineral fertilizers with an acid reaction are suitable, organic fertilizers will be destructive for it.

If you carefully observe the plant, then it will tell you what fertilizers are needed. If the leaves turn red in the spring, phosphates are required. The foliage is shredded and faded - a sign of a lack of nitrogen... If the upper leaves turn black, there is little potassium in the soil, and yellowness indicates a boron deficiency.

Pruning

In order for the crop to be there every year, during the period of bud swelling, it is necessary to prune the plant. Bushes aged 2-4 years are subject to mandatory spring pruningso that a strong skeleton is formed, and during fruiting, the branches do not break off under the weight of the fruit. All branches with fruit buds are subject to pruning.In plants from 4 years old, all old branches and growths at the base are removed. In summer and autumn, you can additionally get rid of diseased branches. And for annual bushes, flowers must be removed in the spring.

Protection from pests and diseases

Blueberries are most often attacked by kidney mites, aphids and flower beetles. Effective protection against kidney mites there will be processing of bushes before bud break with Nitrafen, according to the instructions on the package. To combat aphids the plant needs to be sprayed several times with "Confidor" or "BI-58". Treatment should be started after swelling of the kidneys every 2 weeks. Flower beetle will help to defeat the drugs "Inta-Vir" and "Fufanon".

Blueberry diseases include:

1. Gray rot... Develops in high humidity. The processing of branches with "Eurapen" helps (for 1 liter of 2 g of the product). For prevention, it is necessary to cut and replant shrubs in a timely manner.
2. Moniliosis... Infected blueberries look like they have been damaged by frost. First of all, it is necessary to remove all the affected parts of the plant, and then treat it with Topaz according to the instructions.
3. Physalosporosis... These are small reddish spots that appear on young twigs. To stop the disease from progressing, prune and burn any diseased shoots.
4. Stem cancer... It starts with the appearance of small red spots on the leaves, which grow over time and acquire a brown tint. And ulcers later begin to appear on the shoots, which also gradually increase in size. The fight against the disease is timely pruning and destruction of diseased branches, as well as treatment with fungicides - "Fundazol" or "Topsin". You need to do 3 treatments before flowering (every 7 days), and 3 more after harvest.

Preparing for winter

Blueberries are cold-resistant and can easily withstand down to -35 degrees, but shelter for the winter, nevertheless, will not hurt her. This is especially true for tall plants, in which branches may freeze during a snowless winter.

Blueberries are frost-resistant, but winter preparation is essential.

As a shelter, spruce branches, spunbond, burlap, or any other material, but not plastic wrap, are used. The covering material is stretched over a frame made of arcs or pegs.

It happens that the gardener has planted according to all the rules, and properly cares for the plant, but there is still no harvest, or the plant dies. The reason for this may be the wrong choice of seedling.when the variety is not adapted for growing in your area. Therefore, further we will consider what varieties of blueberries will actively develop and bear fruit in the Moscow region.

The best yielding blueberry varieties for the Moscow region

For a dacha near Moscow, it is worth choosing tall varieties that easily tolerate adverse weather conditions. American blueberry varieties are ideal for this region.

Bluecrop

Garden blueberry Bluecrop

Mid-season variety with a yield of up to 9 kg per bush. The bush is erect and tall, the height of the shoots reaches 2 m... The berries are large, light blue in color with a tart taste. Resistant to frost, can withstand temperatures down to 35 degrees. Also survives drought well.

Patriot

Garden blueberry Patriot

Medium early grade. Bushes grow up to 1.5 meters... The berries are very large and have a pleasant taste. The variety is high-yielding, prone to fruit overload and thickening, therefore it needs frequent pruning. Self-pollinating, but when other varieties grow nearby, cross-pollination is possible, which has a positive effect on productivity. Winter hardiness is high (up to -37).

Northland

Garden blueberry Northland

The variety is undersized (1-1.2 m), but with powerful and spreading bushes. Differs in a good stable harvest, ripening by mid-July. Up to 8 kg of fruit can be harvested from a bush... Berries are medium in size, sweet in taste, suitable for long-term storage. Small compact bushes have high decorative properties, while they are unpretentious, and are suitable for growing in northern regions.

Northblue

Northblue garden blueberry

Small (0.6-0.9 m) and dense bushes are valued not only for tasty berries, but also for their high decorative effect. Fruits are large, up to 18 mm in diameter, dark blue, their ripening ends by the beginning of August. They have a dessert taste and a long shelf life. The variety's resistance to frost is good, withstands up to -35 degrees.

Any of these varieties will feel great in the climate near Moscow, and with proper care, it will provide you with bountiful harvests the most useful berries for many years.

Blueberries appeared relatively recently in our garden plots, they are grown in different climatic zones. The article is devoted to the issues of planting and caring for blueberries in the Moscow region.

The best blueberry varieties for the Moscow region

In the climatic conditions of the Moscow region, only early and mid-early varieties have time to ripen. Preference should be given to winter-hardy varieties with increased frost resistance, not susceptible to diseases. Below is a description of several varieties that can give a good harvest in the conditions of the Moscow region.

Table: blueberry varieties, characteristics:

Variety	Ripening period	Frost resistance, ° C	Height, m	Berry size, cm
Bluecrop	Early august	-34	2,0	2,0
Jersey	Mid august	-35	1,6 – 2,0	1,5
Northland	July, middle and end	-40	1,0 – 1,2	1,5 – 2,0
Northblue	End of July - beginning of August	-35	0,6 – 0,8	1,5 – 1,8
Patriot	Mid july	-34	1,0 – 1,4	1,5 – 2,0

Productivity, from one bush:

• Bluecrop, up to 9 kg.
• Patriot, up to 9 kg.
• Northland, 5 - 8 kg.
• Jersey, 4 - 6 kg.
• Northblue, 1.5 - 2 kg.

Bluecrop

A tall shrub can be grown on a trellis. It blooms with small white flowers with a greenish tint. The plant needs cross-pollination, you need to plant at least 2 blueberry bushes.

Jersey

A tall, spreading bush must provide suitable conditions for development. Jersey produces a consistently sweet, firm-skinned berry that can be transported and frozen. Jersey is one of the best pollinators.

Northland

A medium-sized dense bush with spreading shoots is planted on alpine hills. Fruits with a dense skin are not damaged during transportation and retain their shape well when frozen.

Northblue

The undersized variety is preferable for growing in small garden areas. The berries grow small, but of excellent taste.

Patriot

The medium-sized variety has large and tasty fruits with a delicate skin; it is recommended to process them immediately after removal from the bush. The variety is self-fertile and fruitful.

Most blueberry varieties are self-fertile, but planting several varieties side by side is recommended to increase the yield. All of the above varieties are relatively resistant to disease.

When to plant?

You can plant garden blueberries in both spring and autumn. In the conditions of the Moscow region, this procedure is best done in the spring. Over the summer, the seedling will get stronger and it will have a better chance of surviving the winter.

In the spring, the seedling is planted in the ground in mid-April, until the buds are swollen. Autumn planting is planned to be carried out a month before the onset of stable frosts, in October. If the plant is purchased in a container, it can be planted during the summer.

Site selection and soil preparation

For planting blueberries, choose an open place away from large trees. It must be protected from drafts and illuminated throughout the day.

Blueberries react poorly to their predecessors. It is advisable to leave the place intended for growing blueberries fallow (do not sow for a year).

In a blueberry bush, the diameter of the root system can exceed the width of the crown. For planting, an area of ​​the appropriate size should be reserved: for a low-growing bush, you will need to allocate 1 square meter. m of land, for a tall one - at least 2 sq. m.

Blueberries grow well and develop in acidic soils with pH 3.5 - 5. The soil should be loose, peaty-sandy or peaty-loamy. When planting in clay soil, it is necessary to ensure good drainage; blueberries do not tolerate stagnant water.

With a high occurrence of groundwater, it is better to plant the plant on ridges from specially prepared soil, which includes:

• peat - 3 parts;
• garden land - 1 part;
• sand - 1 part;
• rotted needles.

Selection and preparation of seedlings

It is better to purchase blueberry seedlings in specialized stores and nurseries. It is advisable to buy two-year-old plants with shoots 35-50 cm long in containers.

Before planting, the container with blueberries should be placed in water for 15 minutes - half an hour. When the ground is soft, carefully remove the plant and spread the roots. It is strongly not recommended to "transfer" blueberries from the container to the planting pit, its weak roots will not be able to straighten out on their own, and the plant will develop poorly.

How to plant?

Photo of the scheme:

Blueberries are planted in rows from north to south. A distance of at least two meters is left between the rows so that the plants develop fully. For better pollination, it is advisable to plant 2 - 3 varieties of bushes nearby.

Planting instructions:

1. We dig holes for planting with a diameter of 60 cm and a depth of 50 cm.The distance between the holes depends on the blueberry variety: for undersized ones - 60 cm, for tall ones - 150 cm.
2. We loosen the walls and bottom of the pit to ensure good air exchange.
3. We lay a substrate made from peat, sawdust, pine needles and sand on the bottom of the pit; add 50 g of sulfur.
4. We compact the substrate.
5. We place a seedling in the hole, carefully spreading its roots.
6. Carefully pour the substrate into the pit, deepening the root collar of the seedling by 3 cm.
7. Watering.
8. We mulch the soil surface with needles, rotted sawdust or peat with a layer of 12 cm.

Care after

When planting in autumn, all weak shoots should be removed from a one-year-old seedling, the rest should be shortened by half. A two-year-old seedling does not need to be pruned.

After planting, during the entire growing season, blueberries are looked after using the usual agricultural techniques:

1. Blueberries have a root system close to the surface. We loosen the ground carefully to a depth of no more than 10 cm.
2. We regularly remove weeds that weaken young plants.
3. After planting, we make sure that the ground is constantly wet. We water in the morning and in the evening, in hot weather we spray.
4. In the first year after planting, blueberries are not fed so that their root system develops better.
5. Young blueberry bushes are not pruned. It is permissible to cut out sick, weak, frozen and broken branches in early spring.
6. We fight pests in traditional ways. Before wintering, we carry out a standard prophylactic treatment to combat diseases.

The varieties recommended in the article are winter-hardy and frost-resistant, adult plants can not be covered for the winter. It is advisable to protect young plants in the year of planting from frost:

• mulch the soil in the root area with a thick layer of needles;
• we bend the shoots to the ground and fix them with staples;
• cover the bush on top with spruce branches.

If the blueberries are provided with the conditions necessary for their normal development, in the conditions of the Moscow region, the shrub will bring a stable harvest of tasty and healthy berries.

The article describes in detail the process of planting garden blueberries, promising varieties. All the subtleties of caring for her in the suburbs, provided with a photo. The information is based on feedback from experienced gardeners, for convenience, it is supplemented with a thematic video. Also in the material you will find important little things that help you get an excellent berry harvest.

Description of the main varieties and varieties

Blueberry (Vaccínium) is a plant species belonging to the Heather family. It is a shrub or semi-shrub 30-180 cm tall.Sometimes blueberries are confused with blueberries, but after looking at the photo, it becomes clear that these representatives of the same genus have a number of differences.

Blueberries are a very tasty and healthy berry for the whole family.

In nature, the species is very common, found in almost all regions where the climate is cold or temperate. On the territory of our country, it grows in the tundra, in the foothills of the Caucasus and Altai, in the forest-steppe zone, in swampy forests, often in swamps and along river banks. In the middle lane, in conditions of a fairly short growing season, the danger of frosty and snowless winters, early maturing frost-resistant species should be chosen. Currently, there are many forms, zoned for temperate latitudes and in particular the Moscow region.

Bluecrop variety - very valuable, known since 1952. Forms a tall bush, erect stems reach a height of 1.5-1.8 m. Large berries (up to 2 cm in diameter) are blue with a blue bloom, form small clusters. Ripening occurs in late July - early August. The variety shows excellent resistance to disease, drought and frost.

Bluecrop variety

Variety Patriot appreciated primarily for the excellent taste of berries. Bushes up to 1-1.5 m high (less often up to 1.8 m). Ripening in the conditions near Moscow begins in mid-July. Slightly flattened fruits 1.5-1.8 cm in size are collected in dense brushes. This variety is frost-resistant and immune to a number of diseases.

Variety Patriot

In addition to the listed varieties, they show excellent results near Moscow:

• Rankocas;
• Berkeley;
• Blue Ray;
• Northland;
• Spartan.

Planting blueberries

You can plant blueberries in a permanent place in autumn and spring, but spring planting is preferable. So young seedlings will have time to get stronger and better endure the first winter. Educationally, before starting planting work, familiarize yourself with the video materials. An open, lighted area, protected from strong winds, is chosen for the shrub. Blueberries will grow in the dense shade of trees, but in such conditions the berries become smaller, their taste deteriorates.

Advice. Blueberries love soil that is acidic. Most horticultural crops feel oppressed on such soil. Owners of summer cottages and gardens with an acidified substrate and a close occurrence of groundwater should pay close attention to this culture.

Ideal soils are peaty, peaty-sandy or loamy, well-drained. The planting pit is prepared with a depth of 50-60 cm, peat is poured with the addition of sawdust, needles, sand. If necessary, acidify, add sulfur, malic, oxalic or citric acids.

According to experienced gardeners, sour peat can be purchased without neutralization. No organic matter is added. Maintain a distance between the bushes of about a meter. It is very important to carefully spread the roots of the seedling, the planting should not be deep. It is better to mulch the plantings; for blueberries, grass mulch, peat or sawdust are preferable.

Attention! Blueberries have a unique property, they do not accumulate salts of heavy metals and radioactive substances. Therefore, its fruits are rightfully considered the most environmentally friendly and absolutely safe.

Care, fertilization and fertilizing

Freshly planted young plants must be weeded thoroughly. From time to time, the soil is loosened, but not deeply, since the root system is shallow. An important point in the cultivation of blueberries is to prevent the earthen coma from drying out. The first time after planting, you need to keep the soil in a state of constant moisture. But you cannot swamp the area: avoid stagnant water. An integral part of blueberry care is pruning. It is recommended to carry it out in early spring, before the start of sap flow. The cropping procedure becomes clearer after watching the video.

Blueberries should be fertilized with minerals, organics have a bad effect on the plant. In the conditions of the Moscow region, two spring dressings are required.The first is carried out during the swelling of the kidneys, the second at the end of May. The older the shrub, the greater the dose of complex fertilizers applied under it.

Blueberries are notable for the fact that the appearance of the plant clearly signals the need for certain substances.

1. With a lack of nitrogen, growth slows down, leaves turn yellow.
2. If there is a deficiency of phosphorus, then the leaf blade rises to the stem and becomes reddish.
3. When the need for potassium substances is high, the tips of leaves and shoots turn black.
4. In the magnesium deficiency mode, the edges of the leaves turn red.
5. With a shortage of boron, the young tops turn blue.

Observing the condition of the plant, you can determine the needs and feed the bush in a timely manner.

Mulching is very beneficial for blueberries.

Reproduction of garden blueberries in the suburbs

In conditions of private cultivation, it is advisable to propagate blueberries vegetatively. Lignified cuttings cook in winter. Annual shoots 7-15 cm long are cut and stored in a cellar or refrigerator. Rooting of blueberries is not an easy process, it is recommended to use special stimulants that activate root formation and do it in greenhouse conditions. Peat, a mixture of sand and peat is suitable as a substrate, bark and sawdust can be added. It is imperative to maintain high humidity. For at least 60 days, cuttings are watered, ventilated, if necessary, treated with fungicides. Next, you can remove the film, but be sure to irrigate and feed the already rooted cuttings.

Blueberry cuttings

To propagate blueberries in summer green cuttings they are not cut off, but cut off so as to preserve on them particles of last year's ripened wood (heel). This can be done from the end of June to August. It is recommended to remove the lower leaves. How a viable stalk should look can be seen in the photo. To improve rooting, root formation stimulants are used, such as Kornevin. The cuttings are best placed in a greenhouse, where they form roots after 45 days. Constant care is required, including watering, weeding, ventilating and processing with agrochemicals. At the beginning of autumn, the film is removed from the greenhouse. For the winter, the plantings are covered. Although propagating blueberries by cuttings is very laborious, it is the most promising method.

Green blueberry cuttings prepared for planting

But you can also get a new plant using layering... To do this, the shoot is laid on the ground, pinned and covered with a thick layer of sawdust. No sooner than 2-3 years later, the roots of a young shrub will form.

The most common diseases and pests

It is affected by fungal diseases, such as:

1. Stem cancer.
2. Gray rot.
3. Moniliosis of fetuses.
4. White leaf spot.
5. Double leaf spot.

To combat these unpleasant phenomena, you need to cut out the affected branches and dispose of them. Treat with appropriate fungicides. Sometimes blueberries suffer from viral and mycoplasma diseases. In this case, the plant will have to be completely removed and the soil disinfected. Pests rarely attack blueberries, only some caterpillars and leafworms eat them. But birds can do much harm by pecking berries. Against birds, you can try to stretch a thin net or agrospan over the bushes.

Ring spot on blueberry leaves

Although cultivating blueberries is a laborious process, the valuable berries are worth it. The fruits are used in cooking (including for the preparation of compotes, jams and preserves), medicine, and are consumed fresh. It must be remembered that it is important to acidify the soil. Given the subtleties of cultivation described in the article, it is quite possible to get a rich harvest.

How to properly grow garden blueberries: video

Garden blueberries in the Moscow region: photos

Blueberries are an extensive genus that includes both tall (under 2 meters) and dwarf forms.In areas with a lack of heat in summer and severe frosts in winter, common blueberry is considered the most promising cultivated species, which adapts well to climate conditions.

It is resistant to cold weather and the effects of fungi, but it also has its drawbacks, which are manifested in low growth (up to 1 meter) and a weak yield (up to 1 kg per bush). Nowadays, complex blueberry varieties are being actively studied in order to adapt them in various geographic zones of the Russian Federation.

Common blueberry grows in natural form practically throughout the entire territory of the Russian Federation. It prefers illuminated areas and is able to grow both on wetlands and on dry mountainous soil (and even very poor and acidic soils are suitable for it), showing greater cold resistance compared, for example, with blueberries.

The shrub is highly branched, has erect branches with brown or dark grayish bark and green shoots. Its bell-shaped flowers up to 6 cm in length droop on the tops of last year's branches. Blue berries appear every year, different in shape, mostly elongated, one and a half months after flowering.

Common blueberry is characterized by a long life of the bush - about 100 years. She begins to bear fruit, reaching 11-18 years, 200 g per bush.

Tall blueberry - "sister" of common blueberry, growing in North America in wetlands and humid areas. This species is distinguished by its higher growth (up to 2 meters) and productivity (10 kg per bush in the USA, 0.5-7 kg - in our conditions), and therefore in its homeland this species is widely used both in industry and in the gardens. Americans value this very tasty and beautiful berry even more than black currant.

Blueberry bluecrop - the most valuable and popular variety, characterized by fruit ripening in the second half of summer and strong pruning requirements. Shows resistance to frost, but slightly susceptible to drought, reproduces well. The berries are large, in the shape of a ball, covered with a light blue bloom, form tassels and are very tasty, both in their natural form and after processing.

Blueberry patriot - a very rich early ripening variety. During abundant fruiting, the yield can reach 7-8 kg per bush. The large, fleshy fruits are distinguished by their outstanding taste, while the bush itself is relatively short and strong.

This blueberry can withstand temperatures as low as -35 ℃ and its flexible branches do not break under the weight of the snow, making it the preferred blueberry for cultivation in the eastern regions with difficult winters. The variety takes root worse on heavy and wet soil.

Blueberry duke - also an early and high-yielding variety, but with a lower frost resistance indicator in comparison with the previous one - up to -29 ℃. In good growing conditions, it reaches a height of 1.5-1.8 meters.

To maintain the size of the fruit, this variety needs to be pruned regularly - more often than others. The delicious berries are evenly sized and suitable for freezing. Duke blueberries can be grown in large areas.

Blueberry spartan matures late and is characterized by loose bushes with tall stems. Despite the difficulties in reproduction associated with a small number of stems, the variety is resistant to cold weather. Fruits in mid-summer with large and very tasty light blue berries with an abundant bloom, which must be picked at least once every 7 days to prevent shedding.

Blueberry toro - 2-meter bush with large fruits and high yield. Able to withstand cold temperatures down to -30 ℃.

Blueberry Nelson - tall and widely spreading, ripens in the last month of summer. Bears abundantly in large, flattened-ball-shaped berries that can hang on the bush for a long time without crumbling. The bush is highly decorative.

Northland blueberries Is an early ripening variety that fully lives up to its name due to its ability to withstand cold up to -40 ℃. Small in height (1.2 meters) bushes, nevertheless, can boast of a stable yield of rather small (up to 17 mm), but no less tasty fruits from this.

Blueberry Chandler - a highly branching medium-late ripening variety. The diameter of tasty flattened berries can be up to 3.5 cm, which can be verified during abundant yields at the end of the first half of summer.

Blueberry Elizabeth - one of the most aromatic and tasty varieties, which is characterized by an average ripening period. Bushes up to 1.8 meters high give fruits alternately, prolonging the opportunity to enjoy fresh berries for as much as 2 weeks. The variety reproduces well, but this does not apply to depleted and alkaline soils, where its development is significantly hampered.

Blueberry Chippewa very winter-hardy - its indicator is -38 ℃. Moreover, the variety is self-pollinated and can be grown in a container.

Darrow blueberry 1.5-2.1 meters high, ripens in the second half of August. It does not differ in the stability of the harvest, however, from 4 to 8 kg of delicious berries can be harvested from the bush. The fruits are very fragrant, reach 2 cm in diameter and burst easily.

Blueberry Bluegold Is a high-yield variety that ripens early. Forms one and a half meter spreading bushes, which must be trimmed regularly. The 1.8-centimeter berries are characterized by a deep blue shade with a bluish surface coating, a bright aroma and excellent taste, which can be felt from the middle of summer.

Due to its excellent winter hardiness, the variety bears fruit even in the northern regions, while one of its distinctive qualities should be noted, which is the rapid withering of the fruits, especially when it comes to regions with a dry and hot summer climate. For this reason, the crop must be harvested on time, avoiding over-ripening and subsequent loss of taste and shedding.

Blueberry nord country is a strong dwarf hybrid, not exceeding a height of 1 meter and producing ripe fruits in the middle of summer. Sweetish brightly colored fruits with an attractive aroma are collected in the amount of 2-2.5 kg from one bush.

The variety is very resistant to pests and cold. Also, it is not whimsical in terms of the soil and has a delightful decorative quality at the onset of autumn to paint the foliage in beautiful wine tones.

Blueberry Blurry with a characteristic average ripening period, it forms large brushes of light blue fruits, which begin to be harvested in mid-August. One bush yields up to 2.7 kg of delicious 1.7-centimeter-diameter fruits. The bush itself grows up to 1.8 meters in height.

Planting blueberries in the garden predetermines the preparation of a site that is not very similar in terms of conditions to the natural habitat of this plant.

The fact is that "home" blueberries do not like stagnant surface water, unlike wild specimens. This means that drainage may be needed, or better yet, plant the blueberries on a raised, small slide.

Watering is recommended with acidified water, consisting of 1 teaspoon of citric acid diluted in a bucket of water. Blueberries especially need moisture from mid to late summer, when the fruits are ripening, but you should not overdo it here, since this can cause rotting of the roots.

In a non-rainy autumn, it will not hurt to carry out water-charging irrigation, which will saturate the entire root-inhabited soil with moisture, in the case of blueberries it is 40 cm.This means that you need to pour about 60 liters of water under each bush.

For blueberries, breathable, acidic (pH 3.8-5), loose, peaty-sandy soil is well suited. The favorable conditions for the growth of blueberries in a particular soil can be indicated by indicator plants, which in this case are horsetail, mint and sorrel.

The above range of soil acidity is extremely important, since even if the pH level is 6, blueberries will grow at a slower pace, which is further aggravated on neutral and, even more so, alkaline soils.

If it becomes necessary to transplant an adult fruiting plant, it is imperative to carry out a preliminary deep digging of the soil and check the level of acidity of the soil in the place reserved for transplantation.

The dimensions of the planting pit should be at least 60x50 cm, and the bottom and walls should be thoroughly loosened. For the potting mix, it is recommended to apply about 50 g of sulfur. After completing the transplantation procedure, it is worth taking care of protecting the plants from the sun's rays and watering it very abundantly.

It is advisable to combine the cultivation of blueberries with the introduction of fertilizers, which are based on minerals, while organic matter in large quantities is strictly contraindicated.

Usually, 50-60 g of superphosphate, 15-35 g of magnesium and 1-2 g of a mixture of trace elements are allocated for each plant. Nitrogen is especially important, and they need to be fed in 3 sets - 40% in the spring (before the buds open), 35% in early May and the remaining 25% after summer.

Moreover, if the mulch contains fresh sawdust, then nitrogen must be added in double quantities. Potassium in the form of sulfate is also useful for blueberries, which is quite enough in quantities of 30-45 g per bush.

Tall blueberries are pruned in early spring or in autumn after the leaves have fallen. Only those bushes that have reached the age of 6-7 years should be rejuvenated, leaving at least 5 1-year-old shoots.

A heavily overgrown bush must also be thinned out. Taller varieties of blueberry are pruned even more to stimulate growth.

The winter hardiness of many blueberry varieties is so high that they can easily endure cold times with temperatures of -25 ℃ and below. Moreover, this indicator can be further increased by observing a reduced dosage of nitrogen when applying top dressing, especially when flowering ends - this will prevent stem growth in late autumn.

Protection may be required only for late-ripening varieties, the berries of which can be damaged by frost, and to avoid this, the bushes are covered with a light non-woven material. In cases of particularly harsh snowless winters, you can tie the stems with spruce branches or cover them with burlap.

Seed propagation of blueberries is carried out using seeds obtained from good, fully ripe berries. After the separation of the seeds, they are dried, and in the fall they are planted on the site in shallow furrows.

Before the seedlings grow up (after a couple of years), the sprouts should be steadily weeded, moistened and fed, and after that the young plant is transplanted to a permanent place.

Reproduction by root cuttings begins with their preparation in late autumn. Having separated the stalk from the parent, it is placed in the sand and placed in a cool place. After 2 years, with careful care, the stalk will turn into a good seedling, having planted it in open ground, you can expect a harvest next year.

The most common blueberry disease is stem cancer caused by a specific fungus. A characteristic sign of such a defeat is the appearance of small red spots on shoots and leaves, which, over time, expanding, acquire an oval shape and a brown-chestnut color.

The result can be the death of the stem. The manifestations of this disease are especially noticeable in summer, when the effect of the fungus causes the appearance of round brownish spots on foliage with a bright crimson-red halo. Most often, it is cancer that causes the death of young animals.

It can be prevented by not planting blueberries in waterlogged areas and without applying excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizers, as well as by stable pruning of bushes and burning infected stems.

In the fight against this disease, treatment with a 0.2% topsin solution and a 0.2% euparen solution with three sprays with a frequency of a week before flowering and the same amount after harvesting the fruits showed itself well. Good results are obtained by double-triple treatment with Bordeaux liquid in the spring before the leaves blooming and in the fall after their fall.

If blueberries do not grow, showing signs of dwarfism, this may indicate that the plant is affected by one of the viral or mycoplasma diseases. In this case, complete removal of the diseased specimen is required, followed by its burning.

The peculiarity of the composition of blueberries is due to the presence in them of many vitamins important for humans, including BUT, IN 1, AT 2, PP, TO, R and ascorbic acid... Special mention should also be made of anthocyanins, of which blueberries are much higher than blueberries.

These compounds give blueberries anti-cancer and anti-aging properties. However, for people who suffer from diseases of the biliary tract, the intake of blueberries in food is not recommended.

"Finnish" blueberry pie will decorate any table with its presence, and, besides, it does not require large investments.

• 150 g blueberries (fresh or frozen),
• 150 g flour
• 150 g almonds
• 100 g butter
• 100 g of cottage cheese,
• 100 g sugar
• 200 g sour cream (fat content 20-30%),
• 1 egg,
• 3 egg yolks,
• 1 pinch of salt and half a pinch of vanillin.

To get the dough, you need to grind and pour flour, cottage cheese, butter, almonds and salt into a bowl, then mix them with a mixer and add an egg. The resulting dough should be poured into a mold on baking paper, pierced in several places and refrigerated for 40-60 minutes.

The filling is prepared in a plate based on three yolks, sour cream, vanillin and sugar and poured onto the dough, then blueberries are scattered over it. In this form, the pie is sent to bake in an oven preheated to 180 ℃ for 30-40 minutes. The frozen filling will indicate that the cake is ready, but it needs to cool down a little before eating.

Blueberry jam requires very little ingredients:

The berries should be well washed, ripe, but not overripe. They are put in an enamel container, wait until the sweet composition based on water and sugar is cooked.

After the berries are poured with a hot composition and the mixture is allowed to brew for 2 hours. Then the container with berries is brought to a state of readiness on a burning stove. It is recommended to seal jars of jam while it is still hot.

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