Beans climbing planting and care in the open field

Beans are among the top ten most useful vegetables, so when choosing crops for growing in your garden, they always have a place. In order for the time and money spent to be rewarded with a generous harvest, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of agricultural technology, planting and care for open field cultivation.

When to plant beans outdoors

The planting of beans is planned for May month. You should focus on weather conditions and the correct temperature regime in the soil, which is indicated by indicators 12-15 degrees (at a depth of 10 cm). According to the popular calendar, this period coincides with the flowering of chestnuts.

Erect varieties need to be planted first, and after a week you can start climbing varieties. They plan to plant a bush type of legumes at the beginning of July... This can be done on the beds from which the harvests of early-maturing vegetables have already been harvested.

Experienced gardeners carry out planting work in several stages: from mid-May to early July with an interval of at least 10 days.

A bush bean variety must be sown in the ground in early July

To speed up the harvest, it is recommended to cover the soil in advance with plastic wrap to warm up. After planting the seeds, cover the garden bed again until the night temperature is at least 12 degrees.

Are beans afraid of frost

Beans are a thermophilic culture, so planting is best done in spring. in the second half of Maywhen the threat of frost has passed. Young shoots are afraid even of cold winds, which is why many gardeners find its place under apple trees or along the fence.

The minimum temperature that bean sprouts can withstand does not exceed the mark -3-4 degrees... If the frosts were short-lived, the beans will survive, but their development will be slowed down and yields will decrease.

Agrotextile or film, which are used for construction, will help to change the situation. temporary shelter.

The most popular varieties for planting

Varietal diversity complicates the choice. If there are difficulties in determining the range, it is recommended to give preference to proven varieties that are adapted to the climate and weather conditions of the region.

The best varieties for the Moscow region, Ukraine and Belarus

Moscow White Green Pod 556

Moscow White Green Pod 556

Plant mid-early ripening period, from sowing to harvesting 100 days... The bush is formed at a height of only 25 cm, the fruits have a parchment layer, but very thin. The culture is unpretentious, resistant to a humid environment and drought.

Nomad

Curly variety mid-early ripening.The egg-shaped bob is ocher in color with a pale purple pattern. The fruit is free of parchment and fibers, which makes the structure tender and soft. The plant is tolerant to anthracnose, gray rot.

For the Urals and the middle lane

Oran

She R - early maturing ripening beans 80-90 days, recommended to plant in a country house in central Russia. The height of the bushes is from 35 to 56 cm, the fruits are distinguished by high taste.

Productivity from 1 m2 within 200 grams.

Pink

Pink

Harvesting begins in 65-85 days after seed germination. The climbing bush reaches a height of up to 3 m, so it needs support.

The marbled pink beans are free of parchment and fibers, which gives them a delicate texture. Purple streaks and streaks are visible on the fruit. The application is universal, in any form the beans retain their unique taste.

For Siberia

Winner

Winner

Culture is different high yield and the nutritional qualities of the fruit. The length of the pods is about 30 cm, the beans are large. Cold resistance and strong immunity make it possible to cultivate and grow a plant in Siberia.

Feature: lashes with beautiful fiery red flowers can be used as a decorative hedge.

Oil king

Oil king

Bush type of beans with a ripening period 1.5 months... Delicate and pleasant taste of tubular fruits will not leave indifferent any gourmet. The length of the pod part is about 25 cm. The use of the crop is universal: dry harvesting, freezing, canning.

Planting rules and cultivation techniques in the open field

Seed preparation

To obtain quick shoots and protect young shoots from diseases, the seeds should be prepared before planting.

Soak first in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for about 20 minutes. After the procedure, the beans are washed with clean water and again need to be soaked in infusion of wood ash for 2 hours.

At night before sowing, the pea beans are wrapped in a damp cloth for germination at home. And 5 minutes before sowing into the soil, they are dipped into a boric acid solution. This will protect the plant from diseases and pests.

Preparing the soil and choosing a place for sowing

For planting a crop is selected well lit place, but without drafts and strong winds, planting through seedlings is practically not used. The type of soil does not play a big role, but experienced gardeners noted that beans develop worst of all, they can germinate and bear fruit poorly on clay soils. This is due to poor moisture permeability, which causes the seeds and roots to rot.

In general, the preparatory process for the formation of the garden consists in digging the soil to the depth of the shovel bayonet... At the same time, fertilizers are introduced: per 1 m2 add 4 kg of humus or compost, 2 tbsp. l. dolomite flour, 1 tbsp. l. ammonium nitrate and 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate.

When preparing the soil, you need to dig it up to the depth of the shovel bayonet

Another option for enriching the soil with nutrients involves the use of ½ compost (humus), 30 gr. superphosphate, 20 gr. wood ash per 1 m2.

When determining a place for planting beans, those crops that were grown on it last season are taken into account.

Ideal predecessors are: potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, eggplant.

Planting scheme and depth

Shrub varieties of culture are planted according to the scheme:

• seed placement depth - somewhere 5-6 cm;
• distance between holes in a row - 20-25 cm;
• aisle - 40 cm.

Curly varieties are planted in a slightly different way:

• seed placement depth - 5-6 cm;
• spacing between holes in a row - 25-30 cm;
• aisle - 45-50 cm.

When planting beans, 5-6 seeds are immersed in each hole

5-6 seeds are immersed in each hole.After formation on the seedlings, one leaf at a time, you need to leave only 3 seedlings, remove the rest or carefully transplant.

According to lunar calendar for 2018 planting beans is recommended:

• March - 20-23 days;
• April - 6-9, 19, 20, 23-26;
• May - 7-10, 19-24;
• June - 4-7 numbers.

Leaving after disembarkation

Unpretentious beans do not require much attention to themselves, but they still need the basic rules of agricultural technology.

Germinating bean seeds

Bean seeds begin to sprout later 7-10 days after disembarkation... If the air and soil temperature is below the recommended values, then the first shoots will germinate after 5-7 days.

The germination process can be accelerated if the seed is soaked in growth stimulants at home. Covering the beds with a film also contributes to this.

Young shoots must be spud to make them resistant.

Watering rules and conditions

The plant loves water, so you should not break the watering regime. It is especially important to moisturize the soil during the period of pod formation.

The rate of water per bush is determined by eye, the procedures are carried out Once a week, the main thing is not to let the soil dry out. The best irrigation liquid is rainfall. Experienced gardeners use settled water, the temperature of which not lower than 18 degrees.

Beans love water, so the soil should not be allowed to dry out.

What top dressing to use in the garden

The culture is responsive to fertilizers. After preparing the soil for planting, you will need to make at least 3 dressings.

The first procedure is performed 3-4 weeks after germination. It is ideal to use a complex fertilizer rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Superphosphate is also suitable at the rate of 30-40 grams per 1 m2.

After 3 weeks, you need to feed a second time, this is necessary for the formation of fruits (10-15 grams of potassium salt per 1 m2). The third time the nutrients are administered after 3 weeks.

You should not overdo it with fertilizers, you can provoke the growth of tops and reduce the ovary of pods.

Pests and prevention

Beans are one of the few crops that do not attack pests... Only slugs can appear.

Their invasion can be prevented by timely weeding, since weeds grow and create a favorable habitat for parasites. If slugs are found, you can set several traps, from which you need to periodically remove insects for disposal.

The correct timing of harvesting in the country or in the garden

Harvest time depends on the type of crop

Harvest time depend on varieties and types culture. Asparagus beans should not be overexposed in the beds, as the product loses its value when dried.

If you plan to preserve the legume crop, then you can use any unripe fruits. But for winter preparations, it is better to wait for the pods to dry. The main thing is not to be late, so as not to collect beans from the ground later.

You should not pluck all the pods at the same time on the same day if there are completely dry and greenish ones among them. In the shade of its own tops, some ovaries could develop weaker, it is better to leave them to ripen.

To quickly extract the beans from their "houses" it is not at all necessary to sort each one by hand. The stick will do the job, you can knock out the harvested crop.

To do this, only dried pods are laid out on the bedspread, along which you need to walk with a simple tool with moderate effort. It remains only to remove the dry part of the beans. The selected beans are still being dried and only after sorting are they sent for storage.

The agricultural technology of beans is simple, even a novice gardener can sow and grow it in the Moscow region, in the Ukraine, the Urals or Belarus. By completing all the procedures in a timely manner, preparations for the winter are provided with an incredibly healthy and nutritious product, which also diversifies the menu.

Hello dear readers! I think we're used to the fact that in my blog every time I introduce you to something new and exciting. Today I want to talk about a culture that has recently taken root on my site, but has won the main place in the garden, and in our family menu. Of course, these are curly beans, planting and caring for which at first caused a lot of difficulties and mistakes. To prevent this from happening, I will share my experience gained through experiments.

Short description

You don't know yet what it looks like, I will describe it a little. It belongs to the perennial family, but in most cases it is grown as an annual. Beautiful scarlet and white inflorescences, emerald foliage contribute to the fact that many summer residents have a decorative curly hedge.

Most often, for cultivation, supports are needed, as which you can use twine or wire stretched on pegs. Unknowingly, I planted a plant near a tree, it was beautiful, but picking cherries became very problematic. I do not recommend planting a plant near trees.

For those who do not want to bother themselves with a garter, I advise you to purchase dwarf bean seeds. It grows low, the bushes reach only 50 cm, so no support is needed.

There are many varieties of such a wonderful plant:

• Gerda (early);
• Violetta (mid-season);
• Fatima (mid-season);
• Mauritanian (mid-season);
• Melody (late);
• Lambada (late);
• Turkish woman (late).

I would advise, if you only plan to breed on your site, to buy mid-season. Then, when you gain a little experience, do the later ones.

Correct fit

So, we got acquainted with the plant itself, you can proceed to growing. I want to warn you, curly beans, as well as asparagus, are very afraid of the cold, night frosts will destroy all work. Plant on the site only after stable warm weather is established.

Strong winds can also damage sensitive tender shoots, also take into account when choosing the right place for your delicious beautiful culture. The site must be well protected from harmful gusts of wind.

When growing outdoors, pay special attention to soil preparation. I did this: I dug deep trenches, filled them with a mixture of manure and compost and sprinkled them with a thin layer of rotted leaves and earth. Half a month before planting, I introduced a little nitrophoska (up to one hundred grams per square meter).

Since my plot is not small, I constantly forgot to feed the beans. Despite this, the correct preparation of the soil provided the plant with all the necessary elements, and the harvest was excellent.

It is better to plant seeds at the end of May. Draw small grooves, the distance between them depends on what kind of support you are going to put. Sow seeds deep, up to 6-7 cm. Leave up to 20 cm between plants, promotes good development and growth. Thickened rows threaten to get small green blades, the beans will also not please in size.

Seedling method

You are a happy owner of a greenhouse, you can try to grow beans in a seedling way. There are several advantages here - night frosts will definitely not harm, and you can harvest the first crop much earlier.

Before planting seeds in pots, you need to soak them for 24 hours in water, and then put them between several layers of gauze. Water the fabric periodically. Place the container with seeds in a warm place. After a few days, you will be surprised to notice that the roots begin to sprout. Do not miss the moment, there is no need to wait for the roots to grow large.

Fill pots or plastic glasses with nutritious soil (compost, peat, black soil). Do not save space, plant one plant in one container. From my experience I know that several are cramped in a pot.

When the beans have grown, the threat of frost has passed, they can be planted in the soil prepared with the help of manure and compost in early spring.A secret that will help seedlings take root without loss is to add a few tablespoons of wood ash to each hole.

How to tie

In order for the lush green mass to curl beautifully and not be injured, simple ropes will not work, you need to take it seriously. I tried different supports, and I want to tell you how to tie in the form of a tent. I like this method most of all due to the fact that the culture takes up little space, it is easy to water and harvest.

Bury a few thick planks in the ground so that they stand firmly, tie the tops. Now it remains only to plant a plant near the base of each plank and guide it upward as it grows.

A secret that does not hurt to know is that you only need to twist the beans on the supports counterclockwise. If you don’t, you will have to fiddle with long shoots falling to the ground almost every day.

Care Tips

The cultivation of such a culture does not present many difficulties even for novice gardeners. The most important thing here is proper watering, regular loosening of the soil. Pests rarely attack the plant, I have not come across them for the entire time that I grow.

An interesting point - watering the plant should be started only during the flowering period. Do it earlier, it will actively grow lush green foliage.

It is often not necessary to feed, you can apply organic fertilizers once a month. When the fruits are already starting to set, it does not hurt to feed with wood ash several times. Mulching and weed control have an excellent effect on growth and yield.

Delicious recipes

I can't help but share a few of our family's specialties, in which beans play the main role. I think the hostesses will appreciate the recipes and write them down in their notebook.

Most often, we cook beans in pots. Boil, cut the meat into cubes and fry. Make the onion in half rings. Fold everything in layers in pots, pour over the broth and bake for half an hour in the oven.

For the holidays, we have an amazingly tasty salad on our table. Boil the beans, combine them with diced cucumbers and smoked chicken. Chop the green onions, add to the salad. Season with mayonnaise.

I almost forgot, you can try soaking dry beans not in water, but in beer. Haven't heard of this yet? I recommend that the taste after it becomes unusual and piquant, and the alcohol evaporates during cooking.

That's all for today, it's time to say goodbye. You can watch an entertaining useful video, which I have selected specifically on the topic. If you want to know a lot of interesting things, be sure to subscribe to the news, share with your friends on social networks. I think it will be interesting for them to get acquainted with useful tips and secrets in planting and caring for all familiar cultures. All the best and see you soon!

Ornamental beans are an excellent plant for decorating a summer cottage. Caring for her is simple, and the bright flowers are fragrant for a long time. The plant climbs on any supports, it can decorate a gazebo, a wall of a house, just hide any unsightly structures. In many varieties, the fruits are even edible.

Description and characteristics of the plant

Most often on our sites you can find decorative beans with purple and bright red flowers. But the variety of its colors is much richer. It is believed that the purple color of the flowers is inherent in several varieties of beans, while the fiery red is a separate variety. Currently, it is believed that this is not entirely true: the variety of new varieties covers all conceivable color variations.

Beans are great for vertical gardening

Beans grow very quickly, many varieties reach a height of 5 m, and along this entire length, the shoots are trying to grab onto something. This is a thermophilic culture, but it does not require special conditions, it grows well in any sunny area. In the shade it feels a little worse, but it also pleases the owner with very beautiful flowers.The fruits of many varieties are edible, however, few of the summer residents eat them, preferring to plant grain or asparagus varieties separately on a small garden bed.

Like any other beans, ornamental beans saturate the soil around themselves with nitrogen, absorbing it from the depths of the soil and from the air and transferring it into digestible compounds that accumulate on the root nodules. In this regard, at the end of the season, the plants are not pulled out: they are cut off at the soil surface, leaving the roots in place.

Potatoes planted nearby significantly increase their yield due to the property of beans to improve soil fertility. And the green mass of decorative beans removed in autumn is sent to the compost pit, where it enriches the composition of the collected plant waste with a large amount of nutrients.

Solanaceous plants growing near beans are not affected by late blight. The Colorado potato beetle does not like its aroma.

Homeland of decorative beans - Latin America, its original name is translated as "sailing ship", which is due to the shape of the flower. Ripe fruits are large, rough beans. It is them that are collected in order to repeat the planting the next year or build a flowering wall on a new site.

Video: All About Beans Turkish Beans

Decorative bean varieties

Currently, more than others are known and find their application in decorating areas of the variety:

Some varieties of asparagus beans, such as Golden Nectar, are also often marketed as decorative. There is little confusion in this matter, due to the fact that many climbing varieties of vegetable beans can act both as a decoration for a garden or as a crop grown for consumption as a food product.

Planting ornamental beans

In most cases, beans are grown by sowing seeds directly into open ground. After all, there is not much sense in spending energy on seedlings here, beauty can wait for warm days, and such beans are not specially grown for food. However, the seedling option also exists, they resort to it in regions with a harsh climate and in those cases when you want to create a beautiful wall in the country as early as possible. True, you will have to tinker with the seedlings, remembering, among other things, that the beans are extremely painful for any transplant.

Video: Dolichos bean bushes on the site

Landing dates

It is not possible to sow seeds in open ground very early, the soil should be warmed up for sowing: the seeds begin to germinate at a soil temperature of 8-10 ° C, and the seedlings are very sensitive to frost and die at -1 ° C. The optimum temperature for its growth is considered to be 20–25 ° C. In the central region, planting dates are mid-May, in the north - early June. In the south, all kinds of beans are sown in April. If seeds are sown in cold soil, their germination capacity is sharply reduced, and sometimes they completely die. A rough guideline is the time when cucumbers are sown, which, like beans, are afraid of frost.

They begin to grow decorative beans for seedlings at the very end of March or early April, in the northern regions - towards the end of April. If it turns out that the sowing was carried out too early and the seedlings have outgrown, you will have to arrange a support for it, to which long stems are tied. For this purpose, you can gently stick, for example, a pencil next to the sprout.

Planting seedlings

Seedlings will have to stay at home for about a month, they will normally grow in soil of any composition, except clay, but it is better to mix turf and sand in a ratio of 2: 1 and add a handful of wood ash to a bucket of mixture.

It is imperative to sow seeds for seedlings in individual pots: beans cannot tolerate transplanting with root damage. You can also use disposable ones with a removable bottom, but the best option would be peat ones - then planting in open ground will be completely painless. You can also use large peat tablets.

The best option for growing bean seedlings is peat pots

The seeds of beans are large, and before sowing, they are easy to calibrate, throwing out the smallest and most infested with pests. Then it is recommended to soak the seeds in water until they swell (for 12-16 hours), without waiting for pecking.

Some gardeners pre-pickle them in a solution of potassium permanganate and even soak them in growth stimulants. All this, of course, can be done, but it is not necessary to engage in optional operations in the case of growing an ornamental crop.

Ornamental bean seeds come in a variety of colors, but they are always large and easy to handle.

The beans are sown to a depth of about 2 cm. Usually it grows well, so it is enough to put one bean in a pot or a tablet, but if there are a lot of them and there are doubts about germination, you can spread it out in 2-3 pieces, and then carefully remove the excess shoots.

The temperature at which the seedlings should be grown is 18-22 ° C, but after the emergence of seedlings it should be reduced by several degrees for 3-4 days. Growing seedlings does not require any special worries, except for periodic watering. Bushes do not have to be shaped by pinching or trimming. No additional feeding is required for this month.

If the soil was very thin and it turns out that the seedlings are growing slowly, you can water it with an infusion of wood ash.

It is possible to transplant seedlings into the garden no earlier than two real leaves develop. It should not be kept at home for too long, but if the transplant is carried out with a peat pot, then there is no risk. Only a week before planting, it is necessary to prepare the bushes, taking them periodically to the balcony and accustoming them to fresh air.

A common bean box is not the best option: it will be very difficult to remove the seedlings without damaging the roots

Planting seedlings in the garden

Ornamental beans are less demanding on conditions than vegetable varieties. But still, the garden bed should be prepared in advance by adding the usual doses of fertilizers. It can be humus or compost, but not fresh manure. Any mineral compositions with an emphasis on phosphorus and potassium are also suitable: a lot of nitrogen is not required in beans. This item causes excessive growth of vegetative mass to the detriment of intense flowering.

If there is clay on the site, when digging, you need to add sand, if the soil is too acidic - chalk.

The scheme for planting decorative beans is any, since its main purpose is to decorate the site. Therefore, the owner decides for himself whether it will be a garden bed or one row along a wall or fence, but a distance of at least 20 cm, and preferably 30-40 cm, must be left between the plants. If there are several rows, then between them leave from 40 to 50 cm, in depending on how it turns out to build the supports.

The technique of planting seedlings is usual: in selected places, holes are dug in the size of a pot and seedlings are buried in them almost without deepening, after which they are watered abundantly with warm water and the soil is mulched.

Sowing seeds in the ground

Sowing seeds directly into the garden is the most common way to plant ornamental beans, and this is most often done. In the case of light and warm soil, the beans are sown on a flat surface.

If groundwater is close, they build an elevated bed.

The sowing pattern is the same as when planting seedlings: distances from 20 to 40 cm are left between the holes. A denser planting gives a solid blank wall, but the plants develop worse, they do not bloom so gracefully. 2-3 beans are sown into each hole to a depth of 1.5–2 cm, then abundantly water the garden bed from a watering can with a strainer and mulch the soil with any loose material. If the threat of frost persists, crops are temporarily covered with spunbond. Excess seedlings are carefully cut off a few days after their appearance.

Bean seeds are not sown very deeply, you can do 2-3 pieces per hole

Care

Caring for beans is simple and includes systematic loosening of row spacings, weeding, feeding and watering. Loosening is performed after each watering and rain, it is combined with the removal of weeds. With the growth of the bushes, it will be more and more difficult to loosen it, so it is advisable to mulch the garden bed. When the bushes grow up to 12-15 cm, they are slightly covered with earth.

Beans are a thermophilic plant, therefore, if they are planted too early, at first you need to monitor the weather and, possibly, cover the plantings with non-woven materials. Alternatively, you can build a small temporary greenhouse. Mature plants can withstand temperatures close to 0 ° C.

How to water beans

All types of beans, including ornamental, are watered infrequently and in moderation, not allowing the soil to dry out. This should be done at the root, in the evenings, with water that has been settled and warmed up by the sun during the day. In case of dry weather, watering is required twice a week.

It is advisable to direct the water directly to the roots, especially taking care not to soak the flowers and buds. Therefore, a strainer is often removed from the watering can so that water gets between the rows or, in a single-row planting, closer to the base of the bushes.

Immediately before flowering, the soil can be slightly dried for several days: this causes the appearance of more buds, but then watering continues as usual. It is better to mulch the soil around the beans with any loose material (peat, humus, sawdust, chopped straw) in order to better retain moisture.

Top dressing

Ornamental beans are fed with any mineral or natural fertilizers, except for fresh manure. Florists advise to fertilize it only twice:

1. With the growth of two true leaves (1 g of urea, 15 g of superphosphate and 10 g of any potassium salt are added per 1 m2).
2. At the moment the buds appear (the same composition, excluding urea).

If it turns out that the flowering is not as lush as expected, perhaps the soil is depleted, and in this case, additional feeding should be given by stirring a handful of wood ash and a couple of tablespoons of superphosphate in a bucket of water, then let it stand for a day, diluted in 2 more –3 times with water and pour over the planting solution with this solution.

Garter

After the beginning of the intensive growth of the beans, the shoots only need to be directed in the desired direction, and they themselves will quickly entwine the existing support. In this way, you can create any convenient composition by constructing artificial obstacles. It can be a wall, pyramid, cone, cylinder, or even a ball.

Beans like wooden supports, for some reason they twist metal worse and very badly - plastic ones, so sometimes she has to help her to do this. If it turns out that the beans refuse to wrap around plastic objects, you just need to tie up its shoots with a soft twine in 2-3 places, and then it will most likely go where the gardener wanted.

Beans can be used to construct figures of any shape.

When the beans have faded and formed pods, they can be collected in bunches - they also look quite impressive. After drying, they are collected to peel them into seeds, which, after a short drying, are poured into paper bags and stored in a dry place.

Ornamental beans are one of the easiest plants to grow, allowing you to transform your summer cottage with minimal labor and financial investment. It allows you to build a shaded corner on the site, decorated with colorful flowers. This culture is rightfully popular and is found in most suburban areas.

Plant beans (lat.Phaseolus) belongs to the type genus of the Legume family, which includes about 90 species growing in warm regions of both hemispheres. From the Greek, phaseolus translates as “boat, boat”, apparently because the beans are shaped like a boat.The Spanish Franciscan monk and missionary Bernardino de Sahagun, who lived and worked in Mexico in the 16th century, in his opus "General History of New Spain Affairs" described the Aztec testimonies about the properties of beans and the diversity of its species, since the native land of this plant is just Latin America. Beans were brought to Russia from France and Turkey in the 16th century and were first grown as an ornamental plant. And today in horticultural floriculture, multiflorous beans, or fiery red beans (Phaseolus coccineus), with attractive fiery flowers, which are most often called Turkish beans, are in demand. In the 18th century, beans began to be grown already as a garden crop. Of the varieties of beans cultivated today, the common bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) with all the variety of its varieties and varieties, which are grown for the sake of fruits and seeds. Beans are included in the top 10 most useful vegetables, and their simplicity makes growing beans in the open field affordable even for a novice gardener. However, planting beans in the ground, fertilizing beans, harvesting beans have their own characteristics, and you need to know them.

Vegetable beans - curly or erect herbaceous perennial or annual with feathery leaves, each of which has a stipule. Flowers collected in a brush develop in the axils. The fruits are bivalve beans containing large beans, separated from each other by incomplete spongy septa. The weight of each bean is approximately 1 g. Doctors call beans the meat of healthy people, since they are not only nutritious and rich in protein, but also healthy.

Beans are a short-day plant, that is, in order to ripen and give a high yield, they need no more than 12 hours of light daily. In addition, the advantage of beans is their self-pollination: you can grow different varieties of crops in the same area and not be afraid that they will be pollinated among themselves. We will tell you everything about growing beans from seeds: how to fertilize beans, when to dig up beans, how to store beans, and we will provide a lot of other information with which you can easily grow the harvest of this valuable vegetable crop.

Begin sowing beans in May, when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12-15 ºC. It is advisable to wait until the spring frosts have passed. A sign that will tell you that it's time to plant beans is a chestnut blossom. Curly beans are planted a week later than erect beans. Bush beans can be grown as a second crop after harvesting vegetables that are ripe by early July. Beans can be sown in several steps: every 10 days from mid-May to early July. Many grow beans and peas around apple trees, which protect the legumes from the cold wind. Before planting beans, it is necessary to carry out preparatory processing of the soil and seed. On the eve of planting, the seeds are sorted out, soaked in water for swelling overnight, and in the morning, just before planting, they are dipped for 5 minutes in a boric acid solution (1 g per 5 l of water) - this measure will protect the seeds from insect pests and many diseases.

Beans do not grow well on clayey soils, through which water seeps slowly, and too moist soil of beans is harmful. Dislikes beans and soils overloaded with nitrogen, since she herself is able to extract it from the air. It is best to choose sunny, wind-protected areas for beans with light, fertile, permeable soil, deep groundwater and a pH of 6-7 units. If your garden has areas of depleted soil that has not been fertilized for a long time, plant beans there, as they, like many legumes, are an excellent green manure and a precursor for all vegetable crops.

Soil for beans is prepared in the fall: the site is dug to the depth of a shovel bayonet, adding 4 kg of humus or compost for each m², 2 tablespoons of dolomite flour, one spoonful of ammonium nitrate and double superphosphate, half a tablespoon of potassium chloride or potassium soda ... Or: half a bucket of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of wood ash per 1 m².

Beans grow well after crops such as cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, peppers and cucumber.It is undesirable to plant beans in areas where legumes grew (peas, lentils, soybeans, peanuts, beans and beans themselves) - after such predecessors, beans are planted on the site no earlier than three to four years. Good neighbors for beans are carrots, beets, onions, as well as tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage.

Bush beans are sown to a depth of 5-6 cm with an interval of 20-25 cm between bushes and row spacing up to 40 cm wide. Curly varieties are sown less often: after 25-30 cm between specimens and aisles about half a meter wide. Put 5-6 beans in the hole. When shoots appear, leave only three strong seedlings in the bush, and transplant the rest. After planting, the garden bed is watered and the soil is compacted with the back of the rake. If you are worried that night frosts may return, cover crops with foil.

The emerging seedlings are huddled to give them stability. In the future, caring for the beans includes regular watering, weeding, hilling bushes, loosening the soil, feeding, tying shoots to supports, as well as pinching the ends of the stems to enhance their branching and accelerate the ripening of beans.

Before budding begins, the beans are watered as needed - once a week or less. It will take a lot of water, but the exact amount is difficult to name: it all depends on the weather and soil. The soil should be moderately moist. When the seedlings develop 4-5 leaves, watering is stopped altogether. From the beginning of flowering, the moistening of the beans is resumed, and then the amount of water poured under the bush and the frequency of watering are gradually doubled. The best water for beans is rainwater, but if not, pour tap water into a large container and let it sit for at least 24 hours before watering the beans. After watering, it is most convenient to weed the weed and loosen the aisles. The first shallow loosening is carried out when the seedlings reach a height of 7 cm, after two weeks the soil is shallowly loosened for the second time, at the same time hilling the bean bushes. The third time they loosen the soil and huddle the bushes before closing the rows of beans.

After the formation of the first true leaf at the seedlings, they are fed with superphosphate in an amount of 30-40 g per m², and during the budding period, potassium salt is added at the rate of 10-15 g per the same unit of area. During the ripening period of the beans, wood ash can be added to the soil. It is better not to feed the growing beans with nitrogen fertilizers: firstly, they are able to get nitrogen for themselves, and secondly, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers can provoke a violent growth of greenery, and the yield of beans will be more than modest.

When planting for curly beans, supports up to one and a half meters high are installed, on which a wire or rope is horizontally pulled. These stretch marks will guide the curly bean shoots. You can grow beans in nests: do not thin out the sprouted seedlings, leave them to grow in a dense bush, and drive in a wooden stake next to which the bean stalks will curl. Or stick 3-4 guides up to 2 m high around the bush and tie their tops so that the shape of the support resembles an Indian wigwam. Do not use metal or plastic supports as stakes, as the beans will not climb over them.

Most often, the plant is damaged by the bean weevil, cabbage and garden scoops. Scoops lay eggs on the ground parts of the beans, and the larvae hatched from them begin to devour the greens, flowers and fruits of the plant. Bean weevil is a bug that enters the soil along with the seeds and destroys the beans from the inside.

What is the problem with beans? With poor care and violation of agrotechnical conditions, beans are affected by anthracnose, bacteriosis and viral mosaic. Bacteriosis is dangerous in that its pathogens not only harm the plants and even lead to their death, but can also remain viable for many years and develop in plant residues of culture and in the soil.Anthracnose appears as brown depressed spots of an irregular or rounded shape on seedlings, the veins on the leaves become brown, the plates turn yellow, holes form on them, and they die off. Red, reddish or brown spots appear on the fruits, turning into ulcers with the course of the disease. The mosaic is characterized by the appearance of necrotic spots on the bean leaves and discoloration of the veins.

When asked how to process beans from a viral mosaic, we sadly answer: nothing. A viral disease cannot be cured, but it can be avoided if you organize proper care of beans, observe crop rotation and take seed preparation seriously. As for anthracnose and bacteriosis, proper care plays an equally important role in the fight against these diseases, and you can get rid of diseases by removing and obligatory burning of diseased plants or their affected parts and processing the beans and the site with one percent Bordeaux liquid. But before treating the beans with a fungicide, think, maybe it is better to make it a rule to carry out prophylactic spraying of beans and an area from fungal diseases? The processing of beans and the soil around it with Fitosporin is carried out in the spring, when the seedlings reach a height of 12-15 cm, and after harvesting. This measure, subject to your agricultural practices and crop rotation, can make your beans invulnerable.

As for the fight against insects, the appearance of scoops can be prevented by deep digging of the soil on the site in the fall, but if they nevertheless appeared in the spring, and there are a lot of them, you will have to process the beans with a one percent solution of Bitoxibacillin or a half percent solution of Gomelin, which are bacterial drugs. And you can prevent the appearance of a bean weevil on the site by carefully sorting out the seeds before sowing, soaking them for swelling and subjecting them to pre-sowing treatment with boric acid.

If you want to eat young beans, you can start harvesting them two weeks after the flowers appear, when the fruits reach their maximum size and the highest taste. Cut the pods with scissors every two days in the morning, while they are still saturated with the moisture and coolness of the night. They use young beans in salads, vegetable stews, soups, stewed as a side dish for meat and fish. Unfortunately, fresh beans are not stored for long. If you want to eat them in the winter, you will need to freeze or canned the beans.

If you grow beans for grain, then you can harvest once, when the beans are ripe and the pods are dry. The stems are cut off at the very ground, tied in bunches and hung upside down in a dry, ventilated place - in the attic or in a dry shed. Two weeks later, when the seeds are ripe and dry, they are husked from the pods and sent to storage in glass containers with a metal twist lid, which are kept in a cool room. Bean roots remain in the ground, decompose and enrich the soil with nitrogen.

The first few pods from the bottom of the bushes are left on the seeds, dried, beans are husked from them, which are stored in the lower drawer of the refrigerator at a temperature of 5-6 ºC. Seed germination lasts up to ten years.

Bean varieties for open field are classified according to different characteristics. For example, according to the ripening period, the beans are divided into early ripening, ripening within 65 days, medium early, the ripening period of which is from 65 to 75 days, medium with a ripening period of 75-85 days, mid-ripening, which takes from 85 to 100 days to reach ripeness, and late, ripening for 100 days or more.

According to the shape of the ground part, the beans are divided into bush or curly beans.

According to their taste and purpose, beans are divided into three groups: shelling or grain, sugar or asparagus and semi-sugar.

It is grown for grains because it has a parchment layer inside the pod that does not allow it to be used in food with the shell, like asparagus varieties. In the middle lane, it makes no sense to cultivate such beans, since they do not ripen, and in an unripe form, shell beans are inedible. In warmer regions, beans are grown quite successfully. The best varieties of shelling beans:

• – Gribovskaya 92 - bushy, moderately branched variety of average maturity (reaches biological ripeness in 90 days), with green xiphoid pods up to 12 cm long;
• – Chocolate girl - medium late bush beans up to 60 cm high with straight, medium length brown pods, resistant to shattering;
• – The mistress's dream - mid-season bush variety with wide, long yellow pods containing white seeds with a high protein content;
• – Ballad - short bushes of medium ripening with green pods and beige grains in a purple speck. The variety is drought tolerant and has a high protein content;
• – Golden - bushes up to 40 cm high with curved golden-colored pods and high-palatable yellow seeds rich in protein;
• – Ruby - mid-season bush beans with narrow pods, which contain cherry-colored seeds with high palatability.

In addition to those described, shell beans of the varieties Oran, Varvara, Sirenevaya, Nerussa, Schedraya, Yin-yang, Pervomayskaya, Geliada, Svetlaya, Belozernaya, Ufimskaya and Palevo-variegated are popular.

does not have a parchment layer inside the pod, like a variety of grain beans, so it can be eaten even with a pod. This is the most delicious beans of all varieties and is often included in diet menus, as it has the ability to remove excess moisture from the body. The color of the pods of sugar beans can be green, brown, white or various shades of yellow. The most popular varieties of this group:

• – Purple queen - unpretentious, resistant to viruses and very productive bush variety of medium maturity with dark purple pods up to 15 cm long;
• – Crane - compact, high-yielding and unpretentious bush up to 50 cm high with green, delicate, fiberless pods;
• – Melody - early ripening climbing variety, requiring a garter, with almost flat green fruits up to 13 cm long. 8-9 pods are formed on the stem;
• – Oil king - bush early ripening fruitful variety with yellow pods of delicious taste;
• – Hell Rem - a curly variety with a pleasant mushroom flavor and pinkish grains. This fruit soup has the aroma and taste of real mushrooms.

Also in demand are the asparagus varieties Pobeditel, Panther, Oleniy Korol, Caramel, Fatima and Saksa 615.

differs in that the parchment layer inside its fruits is not as dense as in the pods of the peeling varieties, or it is formed late. At an early stage of development, the pods are edible, but later they develop unpleasant tough fibers. The most famous varieties of this group:

• – Second - early maturing bush variety with green pods up to 10 cm long with 5-6 yellow-brown seeds inside. In the phase of technical ripeness, there are no dense partitions in the pod, but when biological ripeness occurs, dense fibers are formed in the fruits;
• – Welt - high-yielding bush variety resistant to ascochitosis and anthracnose with green pods about 13 cm long, which contain 5-6 seeds of pinkish-lilac color;
• – Indiana - early maturing bush variety with white seeds in red patterns. In the southern regions, these beans bear fruit twice a season.

Among the varieties of semi-sugar beans, in addition to those described, such as Antoshka, Fantasy and Nastena are known.