Delphinium planting and care in the open field in the Urals

 

Delphinium (larkspur, burgundy) perennial is a tall herbaceous crop belonging to the buttercup family. The stem of the flower is hollow, it can reach a height of 2.5 m. Due to its spectacular bright inflorescences, the delphinium looks good as a distant plant in group flower plantings. In addition to its beauty, the delphinium is very unpretentious in care, drought and frost-resistant, blooms again after cutting off faded inflorescences, pleases the eye for several years without needing a transplant.

   

Popular varieties of delphinium

 

In nature, there are many species of this plant, it is not possible to describe all of them. Below we list only the most beautiful and popular varieties widely used by gardeners in landscape design:

 

Delphinium Leroy

Tall culture that came to us from hot Africa. The flower is very thermophilic, its inherent advantage over many other species is a magnificent sweetish smell, somewhat reminiscent of the aroma of vanilla. The stem of the Leroy delphinium reaches 1.5 m in height, the buds are painted in snow-white, sometimes in a greenish tint.

 

Delphinium pyramidal

In the wild, it grows in mountainous areas - this is what determines the ability of the plant to tolerate cold and frost well. This variety can easily withstand temperatures down to -20 ° C, the Himalayas are considered the birthplace of the plant. This variety is completely undemanding to the soil, it grows well even on poor rocky soils. From about July to September, the delphinium produces inflorescences covered with small flowers, up to 3 cm in diameter.

 

Delphinium terry

Perennial is loved by many gardeners for its long and abundant flowering. This culture pleases the eye with its bright buds from May to August, the length of the stem of the plant reaches 1-2 m. The variety of shades is very great, the predominant colors are blue and purple tones. However, breeders are not satisfied with what has already been achieved and are bringing out all new hybrid varieties. At the moment, in the gardens of Russia, you can find terry delphinium in black, red and even yellow shades. This perennial crop can grow in the same place for 8 years.

 

Delphinium rare

It is a medium-sized plant, the stem of which does not exceed 75 cm in height. The Altai Territory is considered the birthplace of culture. The lower part of the stem is covered with long hairs, the upper part is practically naked or with a short edge. Leaves are hard, pubescent, divided into uneven lobes. Inflorescences are loose clusters on the tops of the main stems, rarely on the branches. The flowering period is July-August.

 

Delphinium Bruno

It is a thermophilic flower that does not tolerate frost. As a rule, this variety is found in warm climates: in Tibet, in the Pamirs, India, Afghanistan. Nevertheless, in Russia, some gardeners plant this plant in flower beds, and with the arrival of the first cold weather, the culture is insulated with a covering material. Stem height - up to 50 cm. Flowers are blue-violet or blue, collected in panicles of 5-10 pieces.

 

Delphinium high

Herbaceous inhabitant of the Mongolian steppes and forests of Siberia. A tall glabrous or slightly pubescent bluish stem can grow to gigantic sizes - up to 3 m, on average its height is 100 cm.The leaves are glabrous or partially pubescent up to 16 cm wide, dissected into 3 parts. The flowering period is only 20-25 days in the middle of summer. The flowers are deep blue, collected in cluster-like inflorescences of 10-60 pieces. Delphinium tall is one of the most popular plants in breeding and has been cultivated since the second half of the 16th century.

 

Delphinium holosteel

It is a medium-sized crop, which reaches a height of no more than 1 m. The flowers of this variety are painted in a red-orange hue, the flowering period of the buds falls in June and July. This heat-loving plant is best grown in pots, storing them in a warm place for the winter.

 

Delphinium blue

A low-growing perennial plant, the inflorescences of which have a rich blue tint and a dark core. This variety also belongs to heat-loving crops, therefore, with the arrival of winter, shrubs are transplanted into pots and brought into a warm room. If this is not done, new seeds will sprout in the flowerbed next year, but they will bloom no earlier than a season later.

 

Delphinium labiate

Perennial with a height of absolutely smooth stem up to 95 cm. It has a very attractive and unusual appearance. The flowers of this variety are painted in two colors: one surface of the petals has a blue-green tint, and the other is grayish-gray. The buds are collected in a cyst-shaped inflorescence.

 

Delphinium Kashmir

The stems are low - up to 40 cm, with serrated leaves, divided into 5 parts. Differs in an unusual flower shade - light purple with a black center. There may be other colors in the culture. The diameter of each bud is up to 5 cm.

 

Delphinium short spindle

Refers to undersized crops. The height of its stem does not exceed 20-30 cm. This variety can be found in Alaska, in the Arctic and in some regions of Russia. This is a frost-hardy plant that can easily endure winter cold.

 

Delphinium: reproduction and planting

 

Choosing a place for planting a delphinium

 

The landing site for the delphinium should be well lit, but shaded from direct sunlight at noon. In an area unprotected from the sun, the delphinium flowers will fade and lose their decorative effect.Due to the fact that tall shoots of a delphinium can easily be damaged by a strong wind (they easily break off at the base), a less blown and open place for planting it is chosen: under the crown of trees or next to shrubs, a fence, a house wall. Delphinium grows well on loose fertilized soils. On light sandy loam, flowering will be paler and less abundant. Sand and humus must be added to heavy clay areas. Acid waterlogged soils are not suitable for growing delphinium.

 

Planting delphinium seeds in open ground

 

In open ground, seeds are sown in May or September (under the film). To do this, shallow grooves are made in the prepared soil in the garden bed and seeds are sown, sprinkling them with a thin (no more than 5 mm) layer of sand or earth. If the planting was carried out in the fall, then the seeds will undergo natural stratification and the germination percentage will be higher. Seedlings appear in 3-4 weeks.

 

Planting delphinium seeds for seedlings

 

In room conditions, seeds are sown for seedlings in March. The soil for this is taken loose and nutritious. After distributing seeds on it, they are sprinkled with a layer of earth of 3 mm and compacted so that they do not float up during the first watering. Watering should be done carefully, preferably through a strainer. After that, the bowl with the plantings is covered with a dark film or other covering material, because the delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark.

The optimum temperature for germination is + 10-15C. To accelerate the emergence of seedlings, stratification can be carried out (exposure to cold): a container with seeds is placed in a refrigerator or balcony for a week at a temperature of + 5C. After that, it is rearranged again on the windowsill. During this period, one must not forget to ventilate the crops, remove excess condensate from the film, and moisten the ground in time.

Seedlings appear within 1-2 weeks. It is important not to miss this moment in order to remove the covering film. A pick is carried out in the presence of 1-2 true leaves. In open ground, seedlings are planted in late May - early June. Such plants will bloom in August.

 

Planting rhizome divisions of the delphinium

 

For reproduction of delphinium by rhizome, bushes 3-5 years old are used. The division is carried out in early spring before the start of active growth or in late August-early September after the end of the first wave of flowering. Rhizomes are divided into parts so that each of them has at least one growth bud. The sections are dusted with charcoal powder.

In the selected area, holes are dug 50x40 cm. The removed soil is mixed with humus and peat, and poured back. 50 g of mineral fertilizers and a handful of wood ash are added to each hole. When planting, the root collar is left at ground level. After that, the plants are watered, weeds are regularly weeded and the soil is loosened. The distance between the bushes is planned based on the variety and type:

✿ 50-60 cm - for tall hybrid (height more than 1.5 m)
✿ 40-50 cm - for medium-sized (1.2-1.5 m)
✿ 30-40 cm - for undersized (0.8-1.2 m)

Planting delphinium cuttings

 

For cuttings, young shoots are used that have reached 10-15 cm in height. In spring, the cuttings are broken out together with the "heel" at the base of the plant and rooted in a mini-greenhouse at a temperature of + 25C and bright diffused lighting. After the cuttings have taken root (about 3-4 weeks), they are planted in open ground.

 

Long-term delphinium:
outdoor care

 

Delphinium is unpretentious in care and cultivation. Caring for him consists in watering, weeding, early thinning, fertilizing and tying up.

 

Delphinium watering

 

Delphinium is quite drought-resistant and does not like excess moisture, however, during the period of inflorescence formation, it must be watered abundantly so that not only the upper, but also the deeper layers of the soil are saturated with moisture. Here we must act according to the rule: quality is better than quantity. It so happens that with abundant watering and intense heat, bald (without flowers) areas may appear in the inflorescences.The use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers during the budding period will help to minimize such manifestations.

 

Delphinium thinning and pruning

 

In the second year of the growing season, the delphinium gives a lot of growth, therefore, in order for it to bloom profusely with large flowers, it is necessary to thin out the plant bush. This is done in the spring when the stems reach 20-40 cm. 5-10 (depending on the variety) strong shoots are left in the bush. For better air circulation, first of all, unproductive stems in the inner part of the bush are removed.

Instead of such thinning in the fall, you can cut off excess growth buds. As a result of this procedure, food in the spring will flow to the remaining kidneys, which will develop at an accelerated pace. If the shoots are removed with a heel (a piece of rhizome), then they can be used as cuttings for reproduction of larkspur.

In order not to stimulate the growth of new shoots in the current year and thereby weaken the plant before wintering, in the summer the inflorescences on the shoots are cut off as they bloom. In the fall, after the plant has faded and its leaves dry, the stems are cut completely at a height of 30 cm from the ground. If you cut them off shorter, then the likelihood of root decay increases - the delphinium stems have a hollow structure and after pruning in the spring, melt water easily flows down them to the rhizome. To prevent this, experienced gardeners cover the top of the cut with clay.

 

Delphinium garter

 

The delphinium has its own Achilles heel - this is the junction of the stem and rhizome, which easily breaks in strong winds. Therefore, as it grows, the bush is tied up in 2 places: at a height of 0.4-0.5 m and 1-1.2 m. Varieties with heavy inflorescences are also tied up in the middle part (0.7-0.8 m). Rings on racks work well as support.

 

Preparing the delphinium for winter

 

Delphiniums easily endure winter, withstanding frosts down to -40 ° C under the snow. But the alternation of thaws and frosts has a detrimental effect on this culture - its root system is located close to the surface of the earth and easily blows out. In the absence of snow cover, delphinium bushes can be covered with spruce branches or non-woven covering material.

 

Perennial delphinium: feeding

 

During the entire growing season, delphiniums are fed three times.

The first feeding is carried out in early spring, when the shoots have reached 15-20 cm in height: per 1 sq.m. you will need 10-15 g of ammonium nitrate, 20-30 g of potassium chloride and 30-40 g of ammonium sulfate. Fertilizers are mixed and scattered around the delphinium bushes. Instead of these fertilizers, you can use mullein infusion (1:10) as a source of nitrogen - 1 bucket per 5 adult bushes. During the formation of buds, plants need potassium, but the nitrogen content should be reduced.

With the second feeding for 1 sq. m of soil, the doses of superphosphate and potassium are doubled in comparison with the first application.

For the third time (at the end or after flowering), only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with microelements without nitrogen are applied under the bush bushes.

 

Delphinium: pests and diseases

 

Delphiniums are especially strongly affected by various diseases under unfavorable weather conditions: prolonged rains, prolonged drought. Therefore, the fight against pests and pathogens begins at the first signs of their appearance.

The palm in terms of prevalence is powdery mildew... It progresses rapidly at high humidity and low air temperatures. Its signs are a mealy whitish bloom on the leaves, which later turns brown. To combat this disease, plants are sprayed with fungicidal preparations (copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur, Fundazol, ProfitGold, Topaz, Fitosporin-M).

Another common disease of fungal etiology is ramulariasis... It is characterized by the appearance of a large number of brown spots on the leaves of the delphinium. With the further development of the disease, the spots become light gray with a dark rim along the edges and merge, forming extensive necrotic areas on the foliage.As a result, the leaves die off prematurely, the plant is inhibited. Spores of the pathogen overwinter on plant debris, so they must be collected and burned.

If various black spots appear on the delphinium bushes, then these are signs of a bacterial disease - black spot... Spots are formed first on the lower tiers of leaves, gradually "rising" up the plant. The stalks of the larkspur turn brown and dry out. Early treatment will help save the plant. It is sprayed three times with copper-containing preparations: Oxyhom, Bordeaux liquid, Previkur, Fundazol, Topaz. Between treatments, the soil under the bushes can be shed with a solution of Fitosporin-M, and the ground part of the plant with Baikal-M.

Of the viral diseases on the delphinium, it is often found ring spotwhich looks like yellowish spots in the form of irregular rings. The leaves become chlorotic. This disease cannot be treated, so the diseased plant is removed and burned. Aphid is the carrier of ring spot. To combat it, insecticides are used (Iskra, Fitoverm, Inta-vir, karbofos, biotlin, etc.).

Another malicious pest of this culture is delphinium flythat lays eggs in buds. After hatching, the larvae spoil the flowers, feeding on stamens and pistils. Damaged flowers fall off prematurely and do not bear fruit.

As a result of parasitism delphinium (spurnik) tick bulges appear on the leaves of the plant, they deform and die off. The delphinium acquires a "curly" appearance, no inflorescences are formed on it, growth stops. Seedlings and juicy young shoots of delphinium are severely damaged slugs and snails... To combat them, traps are used, mechanical barriers are arranged around the beds, and granular metaldehyde is used from chemical preparations.

 

WHERE TO BUY DOLPHINIUM SEEDS

 

The Scientific and Production Association "Sady Rossii" has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years. In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory for microclonal reproduction of plants has been created. The main tasks of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, onions, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post. We are waiting for you for shopping: NGO "Gardens of Russia"

 

Delphinium, also known as larkspur or larkspur, is especially loved by gardeners - it is one of the few herbaceous plants for open ground, the flowers of which by nature itself are painted in various shades of blue.

Planting and caring for a perennial delphinium requires increased attention, careful preparation and constancy. Difficulties are surmountable if you use the proposed instructions and advice.

Preparing for planting a delphinium in open ground

The spur is considered a capricious flower, the success of the cultivation of which depends on the correctly carried out preparatory measures.

Landing dates

Plants can be planted / transplanted in spring (April-May) or autumn (from late August to mid-September).

Growing delphinium seedlings is the most optimal method suitable for any region. Sowing seeds is carried out two months before the expected transfer of young plants to flower beds. So, for the middle zone, the best time is mid-March, in the southern regions - the second half of February, Siberia and the Urals - early April.

Gardeners of the south do not bother with germination for seedlings, carrying out direct sowing of seeds in open ground. The first half of April or from the second half of September to mid-October is considered a suitable time for sowing.

Choosing a place on the site

If you choose the right place where it is better to plant a delphinium, an openwork handsome man will show himself in all its glory:

1. Good lighting. It is better to plant where the sun shines in the morning and late afternoon, and there is a shadow at noon. Delphinium perfectly tolerates the heat, but the flowers of brightly colored varieties fade under the sun, lose their attractiveness and decorativeness.
2. Wind protection. Most varieties are tall, the hollow stems of these plants break easily under gusts of wind. However, almost all garden flowers do not like places that are blown through.
3. No moisture stagnation. Rain or melt water, which does not absorb into the soil for a long time, contributes to root rot.
4. Soil preparation
5. The ideal soil for larkspur is moderately moist loam or sandy loam, rich in organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic.

Soil preparation

Clay areas are corrected: sand is taken 1-2 buckets / m2, mineral complexes - 50-80 g / m2, compost or humus - 20-25 kg / m2.

Depleted soils are ennobled per square: minerals - 40-50 g; organic matter - 10-15 kg.

The acidic soil is limed, granular sulfur (30-50 g / m2) is added to the alkaline one.

Experienced gardeners recommend preparing the soil for planting a delphinium using the following method:

• dig up the soil on the bayonet of the shovel;
• lay out a 20 cm drainage layer;
• mix the excavated soil with rotted compost (1 bucket), ash (2 cups), bone meal (1 cup) and superphosphate (2 tablespoons) per 1 sq.m.

The flowerbed turns out to be sublime, which delphiniums like.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Spurnik is planted by seeds or vegetatively, that is, cuttings or "cuttings" of rhizomes. The vegetative method unambiguously produces pure-breed offspring. It is better to buy seeds for sowing from well-known producers: agrofirms "Aelita", "Gavrish", "SeDek", "Poisk", etc.

Cuttings and cuttings are taken from 2–3-year-old mother plants.

Seed preparation algorithm:

1. Disinfection in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, preparations "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" for 20 minutes.
2. The treated seeds are washed with running water.
3. Then soaking with water for a day with the addition of a few drops of "Zircon" or "Epin". Preparations can be replaced with folk remedies - aloe, honey.
4. The soaked seeds, wrapped in a damp cloth, are placed in a container and removed for stratification (i.e., in a refrigerator). The napkin in which the seeds are wrapped must remain moist, but not "float" in the water, otherwise the seeds will suffocate and die.
5. Stratification continues until seed hatching. Then the bundle is moved to a well-lit windowsill and kept under a phytolamp for several days.
6. Then the material is sown in seedling containers or in open ground.

Another method for preparing seeds: after disinfection, they are wrapped in a damp cloth, packed in a plastic bag and dropped on the site for a couple of weeks. The method is applicable at low (in the region of 0 ° C) temperatures.

Landing technique

Successful germination of seeds and further care of seedlings completely depend on the accuracy of the technology.

Sowing seedlings

In order for the capricious "king of the flower garden" to please with rapid flowering from the first year, follow these instructions in sequence:

1. Sowing dates are determined. Sowing begins in February, if there is equipment for additional illumination of seedlings, otherwise they are waiting for an increase in the duration of daylight hours.
2. Pre-sowing seed treatment is carried out.
3. Select containers for sowing. Rapidly decaying individual pots where a single seed is sown are not the best option. The root system of the seedling will not immediately master the soil, which can lead to acidification. Optimally sow in shallow seedling containers with drainage holes.
4. On a note! Disposable food packaging is a good option. If it has already been used, it must be disinfected.
5. Prepare the substrate. Purchased soil is suitable: universal for seedlings or for succulents. Peat, garden or garden soil, humus or compost, sand (2: 4: 2: 1) are mixed independently.The mixture is sieved, perlite is added (1 glass / 10 l of soil mixture).
6. The soil is disinfected by heating in the oven for an hour. Purchased soil is spilled with a solution of "Fitosporin" or "Fitolavin".
7. The containers are filled with the prepared substrate, lightly ramming it.
8. The seeds are laid out on the surface, without deepening, without pressing down.
9. Sprinkle with a thin layer of soil mixture or vermiculite.
10. Cover or tighten with cling film.
11. The container with the crops is placed in a dark, cool place.

Spur shoots appear by the middle of the 2nd week. Gardeners advise checking the crops daily from 6-7 days in order to immediately transfer the seedlings to a warmer place. The film or cover can be removed.

Seedlings are grown under the following conditions:

• moistened soil;
• the duration of daylight hours is 12-14 hours;
• temperature regime 18-20 ° С.

Seedlings dive at the stage of two true leaves. Place the sprouts in separate small cups. The substrate is taken as for germination, adding a full mineral complex to it, 2 tablespoons / 10 liters of substrate.

After the pick, the temperature and light conditions are not changed. The first watering of seedlings is carried out in a week, if during the transplanting the soil was abundantly moistened.

Before planting on a flower bed, seedlings are fed with complex mineral fertilizers (Agricola, Fertika Plus, etc.) every two weeks.

Attention! Top dressing is root, when the solution gets on the leaves, it must be immediately washed off with water.

Sowing in the ground

Direct sowing of burgundy seeds is carried out from the second half of April. For this, a special school bed is prepared:

• the soil is dug to a depth of about 30 cm;
• make complex fertilizers;
• make shallow, about one and a half centimeters of the groove;
• spill abundantly with water;
• seeds are laid out in the grooves;
• sprinkle with dry substrate.

In order for the seeds to sprout faster and more amicably, the crops are covered with agrofibre or a black (dark) film. Crops are periodically moistened, preventing the soil from drying out. The shelter is removed after the emergence of shoots - at 3-4 weeks. In the first season, seedlings are watered moderately, fed twice a month, loosened the soil and remove weeds. For the winter, the school bed is covered with spruce branches so that the young plants do not freeze. In the spring of the second year, young shoots of burgers are transplanted to a prepared permanent place.

Outdoor delphinium care

The activities associated with caring for the plant do not differ in complexity, the main rule is regularity.

Watering

During the growing season, one plant needs 65 liters of water. With a low amount of precipitation in summer, 2-3 buckets of water are poured every week under each bush. More frequent, but less abundant watering is required at the stage of inflorescence formation. With a lack of moisture, some of the buds do not develop properly, empty spaces appear in the inflorescence.

Note! The delphinium is watered strictly at the root, surface watering does not bring benefits to the plant. It is undesirable for water to get on the green parts of the plant - stems, leaves.

In late autumn, if there is little rainfall, they are watered abundantly so that preparation for winter goes without complications.

After each watering, when the soil dries up, loosening is carried out.

Pruning

The first time pruning is done when the stems grow up to 30 cm. The peduncles are thinned according to the following scheme: 2 stems are left for the plants that bloom for the first time; adults - 4-5.

Side shoots are removed for specimen plants. Delphiniums growing in mixed plantings are left.

Faded shoots are removed so that the plant does not expend energy on the formation and maturation of seeds.

Before winter, the last peduncles are cut off at a height of 30 cm.

Top dressing

During the season, fertilizing is applied twice:

• early spring - urea (2 tablespoons), potassium sulfate (2 tablespoons) and superphosphate (1 tablespoon) per square;
• before flowering, 1 tbsp. l. potash and phosphate fertilizers per sq. m;

Since August, feeding is stopped so as not to stimulate growth and continued flowering, but to allow the plant to lay flower buds of the next season.

So that the root system, located close to the surface of the earth, does not get burns from fertilizers, it is recommended to dig out special grooves, where to pour the nutrient solution.

During budding, burgundy leaves are sprayed with boric acid solution (50 g / l).

Preparing for winter

Upon completion of flowering and drying of the leaves, the stems are cut at a level of 30-35 cm above ground level. The inner cavities of the shoots are covered with garden pitch or clay so that moisture does not get into them, does not penetrate the roots and does not provoke rotting.

Frost-resistant delphiniums do not need shelter for the winter, they cover only young plants. If forecasters promise frosts and little snow for the winter, it is advisable to cover the bases of the delphinium bushes with spruce branches or straw.

Experienced growers also dig grooves around each plant before winter to drain rainwater in autumn and thawed water in spring.

Note! “When the stems are 60 cm tall, the plant needs to be tied up.

To do this, three pegs are driven into the ground around it and the peduncles are fixed with a wide braid or ribbon. "

Reproduction methods

Like all herbaceous plants for open ground, delphinium can be grown from seeds, cuttings and a "cut" of rhizomes.

Reproduction of a perennial delphinium by division

Dividing the rhizome of a mature burgundy is the simplest, and therefore popular, method. The age of a plant suitable for division is 3-4 years. Older or younger bushes tolerate the procedure worse.

The division is carried out:

• in spring, when fresh leaves begin to sprout;
• in the fall, when the seeds begin to ripen (and new foliage grows again).

The root is carefully removed from the soil, keeping the largest earthen lump as possible. Break or cut it with a sharp instrument, leaving a bunch of roots, one young shoot and one dormant bud on each division. This is enough for the young plant to quickly build up its green mass and prepare for flowering.

"Delenki" are seated in prepared places. Until autumn, they are carefully looked after, and covered for the winter.

Reproduction of a perennial delphinium by seeds

A description of the process of growing a burgundy from seeds is given above. Let's add a few words about the collection and storage of seeds.

Delphinium seeds are easy to tie, but of different quality.

To minimize the loss of time and effort for germinating unpromising seeds, they resort to the following technique: 10-15 lower flowers are left in each inflorescence candle, the rest are cut off. So that the ripe seeds (they should ripen at the root) do not crumble, the peduncle is wrapped in a thin cotton cloth or gauze in one layer. Ripe seeds are stored in glass jars or foil bags at a reduced temperature.

Seeds collected on their own do not always inherit the varietal qualities of the parent plants; for fans of experiments and surprises, this serves as an additional incentive.

Reproduction of delphinium by cuttings

Apical cuttings are taken for reproduction. Prepare them in the spring, cutting out young 10-centimeter shoots. Separate from the uterine bush at the very root collar with a piece of root tissue.

Larkspur cuttings are rooted in a substrate consisting of peat and sand in a 1: 1 ratio. Deepen by 2 cm and cover with a transparent cap. Conditions for successful rooting: shading, temperature 20-25 ° C, high humidity. The process takes about 5-6 weeks.

The cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place in the spring.

Note! "In the case of group cultivation of delphiniums, the distance between the plants is maintained at least 30 cm."

Diseases and pests

Black spot - black spots appear on the lower leaves, gradually rising up the stem. For treatment, spray with tetracycline solution (1 tablet / 1 liter of water). Powdery mildew is a gray-white bloom on the leaves, darkening to brown over time. Plants are treated with a solution of "Fundazol", "Topaz" or other fungicides. Ramulariasis - the leaves become covered with small spots, dry up, fall off.Treat with antifungal agents. Ring spot - the appearance of yellow spots of irregular shape on the leaves. A viral disease, there are no reliable means of struggle. Plants are dug up and destroyed.

Forbia (delphinium fly) lays eggs in unpainted buds. Control measure - spraying with insecticides ("Prometrin", "Iskra") at the budding stage. Spider mites attack plants when the air is too dry. Pest prevention and extermination - green soap, Fitoverm. Aphids - processing of plants is carried out from the first days of spring. In addition to ready-made insecticides, folk remedies are used: infusions of tobacco, garlic, onions. Slugs are most dangerous for young seedlings. It is optimal to use traps or sprinkle the soil with dry mustard, eggshells, hot pepper.

Remember! Most often, delphinium diseases are the result of violations of the rules of care or adverse weather conditions, such as: prolonged rains, high humidity, poor air circulation between plants.

Popular types of delphinium

More than 400 species of one- and perennial delphiniums are known. They differ in height, color and structure of the flower, flowering period. Domestic gardeners enjoy several types of love.

Delphinium hybrid (Delphiniumhybrids)

A group of tall delphiniums - from 1 to 2 m and more. The rhizome is short, the stem is hollow, erect. Flowers of irregular shape - simple, semi-double and double - form a grape-like inflorescence. Flowers are painted in various tones of blue, blue, lilac, purple, pink and white. Blossoming in July, in the southern regions again - in September.

Preference is given to the varieties "blue lace", "daughter of winter", "king arthur", "pushkin", "pink sunset", "lilac spiral".

On a note! The “black knight” variety with large double flowers of a thick ink color is very effective.

Delphinium Belladonna

Graceful plants with loose panicle inflorescences. Bloom begins in June, the second wave falls in mid-late August. The flowers are simple and semi-double, color from white to deep blue with all shades. They are considered ideal for beginners as it is easier to care for this group of varieties.

Bright representatives of "berghimmel", "casablanca", "lamartin", "piccolo".

Delphinium grandiflorum (Delphiniumgrandiflorum)

The standard height of the species is up to 80 cm. The stem is straight, branched. The color of the flowers is saturated, blue, pink or white. The size of the flowers is average, the inflorescence is racemose. Blooms from the second half of July.

The varieties of large-flowered delphinium loved by summer residents are “pink butterfly”, “blue butterfly”, “white butterfly”.

Field delphinium

Annual plant up to one and a half meters high. The flowers are simple, double and semi-double, in pink, blue, lilac and white shades. Blooms from June to September.

The following varieties have become widespread: FrostedSky, QisRose, QisDarkBlue.

Delphinium high (DelphiniumElatum)

A tall (up to 180 cm) line of varieties with dense pyramidal inflorescences, the length of which reaches 40 cm. Flowers are often semi-double, large - about 8 cm. Flowering falls in the second half of June - early June. Blooms again towards the end of summer.

The best varieties: Agenwade, Finstearon, Sungleam.

On a note! In addition to those listed, Pacific and New Zealand hybrids are also popular, which are distinguished by a variety of colors and tallness, and domestic breeding hybrids - Marfinsky.

Delphinium in landscape design

Slender elegant delphiniums are used in the background of mixborders; next to decorative tall evergreen or early flowering shrubs; for decorating the walls of outbuildings and fences; to accent the center of the flower bed; when decorating borders and ridges (undersized species); on alpine slides (miniature varieties); as tapeworms on lawns or among ground covers.

When planting together, the spur looks spectacular with phloxes, roses (including climbing ones), lilies.

Planting and caring for a perennial delphinium requires the application of certain efforts, it is not for nothing that it is called the "king of flower beds". The hassle and time spent is fully repaid by the enchanting beauty of blooming inflorescence candles. In addition, you value more what you put your soul into, willy-nilly.

In order to settle a perennial delphinium on your site, planting and care will be more difficult than with classic letniki, so seed stratification should be carried out at the initial stage, you need to know how to grow seedlings, at what time and time to transplant to a permanent place, than fertilize flowers and when, whether pruning is needed, how to sow before winter, etc.

Varieties and types of perennial delphinium, growing conditions

Delphinium is a magnificent perennial that can decorate open areas, shade shrubs, give a noble look to an area with a gazebo or a pond. The perennial subgroup of delphiniums, in contrast to annuals, forms larger flowers and taller inflorescences.

1. Delphinium Scottish - beautiful plants with super-double flowers, crowning peduncles 120-160 cm high, this variety stands for a long time in the cut and reproduces well by seeds. At the same time, the plants retain all varietal qualities.
2. Delphinium Marfinsky - flowers of this group are famous for their high resistance to freezing, they fell in love with gardeners for large double or semi-double flowers with a large contrasting eye. When propagated by seeds, Marfin delphiniums do not retain varietal qualities, therefore they are more often propagated by dividing the bush
3. Delphinium New Zealand - the largest plants from perennial delphiniums, their peduncles grow up to 3 m in height, and flowers reach 10 cm in diameter, are frost-resistant and immune to fungal infections, they stand for a long time in the cut

For such a complex plant as a perennial delphinium, planting and care must obey the basic requirements of the culture for growing conditions. In nature, they prefer to settle in open areas, on hills, hillsides. It is very important for perennial delphiniums that the plants are constantly blown through - stagnant air and its high humidity are detrimental to this culture. Therefore, before growing a perennial delphinium from seeds, it is important to choose the right place, which should be:

• slightly elevated so that moisture does not linger in the soil for a long time
• open and without drafts, so that under the gusts of wind, hollow peduncles do not bend or break
• protected from direct sunlight in the afternoon for longer flowering
• with moderately loose and nutritious soil, well permeable

Where a perennial delphinium will grow, melt or rainwater should not stagnate. The correct choice of planting dates and competent care will serve the full formation of the plant, thanks to which the bush will calmly endure even a frosty winter.

To get a viable perennial delphinium, planting and caring for seedlings should begin long before the onset of constant heat, so in the middle lane and the Moscow region - mid or late March, in Siberia and the Urals - the first decade of March, and in the southern regions sow perennial delphinium for seedlings possible in the first and second ten days of February. Before planting in the ground, the delphinium culture is perennial - the seedlings should have 4-6 true leaves.

Before growing a perennial delphinium from seeds, they must be carefully processed and subjected to stratification - a special temperature effect that increases germination. Delphinium seeds are placed in a bag or gauze knot and dipped in a bright pink manganese solution for 20 minutes. After that, the seeds are washed directly in the bag and immersed in Epin's solution (diluted with 2 drops of the stimulant in 120 ml of water) for 10-12 hours. After this treatment, the seeds are dried. The soil for sowing seeds is prepared from the following components:

They are taken in equal parts and coarse sand (0.5 parts) or perlite (for 5 kg of soil mixture no more than 0.5 kg) is added to them. The seedling containers are filled with soil and the prepared seeds are spread over the surface. Planting ends with watering and filling the seeds with sifted soil with a layer of 0.5-1 cm.

Containers with crops are covered with a light-impenetrable film and put them in a refrigerator or on a loggia for a couple of days. The temperature there can drop to -6 ْ С. In such conditions, the stratification of delphinium seeds will take place - they will be hardened, and the seed shell will become thinner. After that, the containers are transferred closer to the window or to a place where the temperature is kept at +11 ْ + ... 15 ْ С.

Good results are obtained by planting a delphinium with seeds before winter - the seeds are sown with the onset of constant cold weather in October (in the southern regions in November) to a depth of 2-4 cm, the plantings are mulched with humus and covered with non-woven material. In winter, more snow is thrown over them to prevent severe freezing of the soil.

In such conditions, the seeds of the perennial delphinium will begin to germinate 7-10 days after planting. Care at first consists in watering and periodically turning the seedlings relative to the light source. There is no need to feed the delphinium at this stage. After the appearance of the first leaves, once every 2 weeks, Agricola or Solution is added to the water for irrigation in accordance with the instructions on the package. At the same time, the temperature of the content is increased to +21 ْ С.

The time when to plant a delphinium in open ground, in the Moscow region and the middle lane, comes in mid-May, in Siberia and the Urals, planting in the ground is carried out in early June, and in the southern regions it is possible to relocate a perennial delphinium to the beds in early May or late April.

For a perennial delphinium culture, planting and care in the open field are decisive in terms of future flowering. Plants are planted on pre-prepared beds, seasoned with humus (1 bucket per 2 m2), peat (1 bucket per 1 m2) and sand (1 bucket per 4 m2).

Planting of a perennial delphinium is carried out in holes located according to a scheme of 20-30 x 40-50 cm. Plants are watered and mulched with peat with a layer of at least 3 cm. Caring for a perennial delphinium consists in weeding and abundant watering (at least 2 times a week). When the perennial delphinium bush grows to 35 cm in height, it is thinned out, removing weak shoots. Leave no more than 6 shoots per bush. As the shoots grow, they are tied to supports.

After the formation of inflorescences, caring for a perennial delphinium consists of abundant watering. It is necessary to feed the perennial delphinium twice a month with mullein infusion, diluting a liter of the product in a bucket of water, you can also use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (20 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt per 1 m2). Towards the end of summer, plants are treated with Fundazol (according to the instructions on the package) to prevent the spread of powdery mildew.

In autumn, after the shoots have dried, they are cut off at a height of 30 cm above the soil, and with the onset of cold weather, the soil surface under perennial delphiniums is covered with spruce branches or straw. Perennial delphiniums do not need a film shelter.

In the gardens, the perennial delphinium, planting and caring for which was carried out according to the described rules, blooms magnificently and for a long time. Once every 4-6 years, the plants are separated and transplanted to a new place so that the flowers do not become smaller.

Greek legend says that once upon a time there lived a gifted young man in Ancient Hellas, who sculpted his deceased beloved from memory and breathed life into the statue. For this insolence, the gods turned him into a dolphin. Once a reborn girl came to the seashore and saw a dolphin in the waves, which swam to the shore and laid a delicate flower emitting an azure light at the feet of her beloved. It was a delphinium flower.

The name is associated with the shape of the flower.The Greeks, in particular Dioscorides, (in the 1st century in his main work "On Medicines" he described all the known medicines of plant, animal and mineral origin) compared the buds with the head of dolphins (delphinos). In Russia he was called "spurnik", in Germany - "knightly spurs", in England - "funny spurs", and in France - "lark's legs".

Types and varieties of delphinium

Delphinium Ajax, or garden (D. ajacis), an annual hybrid, the result of a cross between the species is dubious and oriental. Height from 20 to 100 cm, taproot, strongly dissected leaves, flowers up to 5 cm in diameter. Blooms from early summer to autumn. It has been used in culture for several centuries, has many varieties and garden forms, among which are tall, up to 1 m, terry delphiniums with dense inflorescences of hyacinth-like flowers, and dwarf, no higher than 30 cm, plants. The latter include Dwarf Hyacinth-flowered cultivars with double pink, crimson, white and purple flowers.

Fresh articles about garden and vegetable garden

Delphinium high (D. elatum L), a native of the northern mountains of Europe, Siberia and Mongolia, up to 1.5 m high with bare or slightly pubescent stems, and blue flowers, collected in sparse brushes. In culture since 1578, it is often used to create hybrids. There is a giant form up to 3 m high.

Delphinium labiate (D. cheilanthum Fischer), another plant of northern origin, which is the progenitor of cultivated varieties. Height from 45 to 95 cm, bare stems, leaves green above, gray below, densely pubescent. Blue flowers form a simple raceme.

Delphinium large-flowered or Chinese (D. grandiflorum L., D. chinensis), grows in Eastern Siberia, Korea, China, Mongolia. The plant has straight, often branched stems from 20 to 50-80 cm in height, with white pubescence, trifoliate leaves divided into narrow lobes and large bright blue, sometimes white or pink flowers. In the gardens, simple and double forms are grown, the undersized, up to 30 cm, variety Blauer Zwerg is popular.

Delphinium Belladonna (D. belladonna Bergmans), varieties that appeared in the 19th century, hybrids of large-flowered and labiate species. They are characterized by low (up to 1.5 m) growth, deeply dissected leaves and branchy paniculate inflorescences with simple, non-double flowers. Most of the varieties included in the group are blue and blue delphiniums (Piccolo, Capri, Arnold Becklin).

Delphinium cultural (Delphinium cultorum Voss), includes the rest of the varieties bred by hybridization of tall, large-flowered, Barlow delphiniums. These are plants from 20 to 150 cm in height with simple, semi-double and double flowers of various colors, collected in pyramidal brushes. The following groups of hybrids are distinguished.

Planting delphinium seeds for seedlings

Consider how to plant a delphinium with seeds - spread the flower seeds evenly over the prepared soil. If you are using granulated seeds or a small amount of seeds, spread them out with tweezers. Delphinium variety labels will help you avoid confusion in growing a delphinium from seed. Sprinkle the sown seeds on top with soil, about 3 mm. Compact the sowing of the delphinium with seeds - pat your palm on the soil so that they do not float when watering. Spray the crops evenly with warm water from a spray bottle and cover the crops.

Since the delphinium grows better in the dark, there are two ways to cover the delphinium seedlings:

• black film or covering material;
• with an ordinary plastic bag and put in a dark place until the first shoots.

For germination, seeds do not need a high temperature, +10 degrees is enough. Sometimes at high temperatures, +20 seedlings may die. Plants respond well to cold, so for hardening when growing seeds, you can alternate the temperature regime - cold / heat. Seeds sprout 7 - 10 days after planting. Do not miss this time - you will need to remove the cover from the top.To grow a delphinium, with the appearance of real leaves, planting must be dived.

Delphinium care in the open field

1. The seedlings of the delphinium at the time of disembarkation in open ground are not yet large, but the distance between them is large (up to a meter), taking into account the future dimensions. After planting, the soil surface is mulched with compost or humus.
2. For grown plants, a support must be built, otherwise the tall stems may break - by the wind or under the weight of flowers. In the first year of cultivation, the delphinium does not need to be fed.
3. Sometimes you need to gently loosen the soil compacted after watering or additionally mulch it. Closer to autumn, well-grown bushes can be fed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate so that they winter better.
4. After flowering, the peduncles are cut, and after the first frost, all the shoots are cut. But the shoots of delphiniums are hollow, after cutting, water can stagnate in the stumps and cause rotting of the root collar. To prevent this from happening, the hemp is split to the ground.
5. Thin frost-killed shoots can simply be bent to the ground and cut out in the spring. For the winter, the delphinium does not require shelter, but it will not be superfluous to mulch the root zone with compost, fallen leaves.

Planting a delphinium rhizome cut

For reproduction of delphinium by rhizome, bushes 3-5 years old are used. The division is carried out in early spring before the start of active growth or in late August-early September after the end of the first wave of flowering. Rhizomes are divided into parts so that each of them has at least one growth bud. The sections are dusted with charcoal powder.

In the selected area, holes are dug 50 x 40 cm. The removed soil is mixed with humus and peat, and poured back. 50 g of mineral fertilizers and a handful of wood ash are added to each hole. When planting, the root collar is left at ground level. After that, the plants are watered, weeds are regularly weeded and the soil is loosened. The distance between the bushes is planned based on the variety and type:

• 50-60 cm - for tall hybrid (height more than 1.5 m.),
• 40-50 cm - for medium-sized (1.2-1.5 m.),
• 30-40 cm - for undersized (0.8-1.2 m).

Fresh articles about garden and vegetable garden

Planting delphinium cuttings

For cuttings, young shoots are used that have reached 10-15 cm in height. In spring, the cuttings are broken out together with the "heel" at the base of the plant and rooted in a mini-greenhouse at a temperature of + 25C and bright diffused lighting. After the cuttings have taken root (about 3-4 weeks), they are planted in open ground.

Delphinium garter and pruning

Delphinium flowers are tied up twice, at a shoot height of 40-50 cm and 1-1.2 m, then the wind or rain will not break the shoots and inflorescences. Place several stakes up to 1.5-1.8 m long near each bush. Use cut strips of fabric as a garter material.

Pruning delphiniums is required for the development of peduncles. To do this, you need to remove all thickening, weak shoots, when the height of the stems is 20-30 cm, leaving an average of 3-5 of the most powerful shoots. Remove overgrowth in a timely manner. Delphiniums will bloom again in August-September if faded inflorescences are cut off in time. But such actions weaken the plants before the main summer flowering next year.

For a good wintering of flowers in a personal plot, in the fall, when the leaves begin to fade, the ground part is cut off, leaving only 20-30 cm of the stem height. The sections are covered with clay or plasticine so that water does not get into the cavity of the stem when the snow melts, thereby causing the rhizome to rot. Cut off parts of delphiniums are burned.

Delphinium watering

Delphinium planting and care also consists in abundant watering, since the delphinium is considered a moisture-loving plant. One plant needs about 60 liters of water per season. He needs a lot of water during the budding period. Excessive moisture in spring has a negative effect on plant development.Watering should be carried out, guided by the needs of the delphinium. During a prolonged drought, two to three buckets of water are poured under each bush once a week. Weak watering is less beneficial, as only the top of the soil is moistened.

Such watering contributes to the development of a superficial root system, which in case of drought cannot provide plants with moisture. After each watering, the soil is loosened to a depth of three to five centimeters, which delays moisture evaporation.

In dry autumn, watering is carried out, since moisture is necessary for the development of wintering organs. In autumn, when the first frosts come, the delphinium stems are cut at a height of 30 centimeters, and dry leaves and debris are removed and burned.

Delphinium thinning

In the second year of the growing season, the delphinium gives a lot of growth, therefore, in order for it to bloom profusely with large flowers, it is necessary to thin out the plant bush. This is done in the spring when the stems reach 20-40 cm. 5-10 (depending on the variety) strong shoots are left in the bush. For better air circulation, first of all, unproductive stems in the inner part of the bush are removed.

Instead of such thinning in the fall, you can cut off excess growth buds. As a result of this procedure, food in the spring will flow to the remaining kidneys, which will develop at an accelerated pace. If the shoots are removed with a heel (a piece of rhizome), then they can be used as cuttings for reproduction of larkspur.

Delphinium feeding

I feed the plants before flowering and during flowering.

Top dressing: I feed an adult delphinium for the first time in April - 2-3 tablespoons of azofoska or 1 tbsp for a bucket of water. spoon of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, 1 tbsp. spoon of urea and water 2 liters per bush.

Fresh articles about garden and vegetable garden

The second feeding in the budding phase is for a 1 liter bucket of water. mullein, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of complex fertilizer and under a bush of 2.5-3 liters. After the first flowering, I cut off the peduncles (I leave the stump no more than 5 cm above the ground), I reduce the watering in order to prevent decay of new shoots.

When the new growth of peduncles (5–8 cm) begins, I remove the old leaves, increase watering, feed systematically after 8–10 days, the composition of the fertilizer, as in the first feeding. Flowering continues until frost.

Delphinium pests and diseases

Delphinium fly - this is the main and worst enemy! It hibernates in cocoons near the roots, and in May lays eggs at the base of the delphinium stem. To destroy it, you need to knowingly add a special preparation against this evil spirits to the soil, as well as study the root collar during transplantation and treat it with this agent if a fly is found.

Powdery mildew. A fairly common disease (not only delphinium is affected, but also mirabilis, evening primrose, roses, limonium, phlox, cosmea and other garden flowers). It is better to warn him by treating the plants with special preparations. If you don't like any kind of chemistry, you can make an iodine solution (5 grams per bucket) and treat the flowers with it once a week. Three procedures will be enough. For prevention, you can water the plants with onion husk tincture.

Delphinium care before winter

In order for the plant to successfully overwinter and the next year to please with beautiful flowering, it must be prepared for winter. This is especially needed for young crops and those planted in autumn. Since they have not yet taken root. But plants at the age of 2 years can already easily withstand frosts down to -25 degrees of cold, and under snow and up to -50 degrees of frost.

The worst thing for a delphinium is the thaw. At the end of autumn, during the period when the first frosts begin, cut off the stems and leave a distance of up to 40 cm from the soil. Then cover it with a layer of fallen leaves.