Flowers for garden planting and outdoor care

More and more gardeners prefer to grow exotic plants on their site. Among them there are real unpretentious specimens that can bloom in any conditions, for example, yucca (yuca).

Yucca is a spectacular flower that is resistant to climatic conditions and soil quality. Subject to the rules of planting and proper care, the garden yucca blooms profusely and for a long time, quickly grows and develops in a new place. From the article, you will learn how to grow this unusual plant outdoors in your backyard.

Description of the plant

Garden yucca is an exotic plant of the Agave family. It is represented by a perennial tree-like shrub. The leaves are xiphoid, the growth of which follows a spiral and forms a characteristic rosette. They are painted in a rich green or bluish color, capable of growing up to 100 cm. During the flowering period, a peduncle of a white or beige shade is formed in the center of the rosette, slightly drooping down.

In one season, 80-170 bell-shaped flowers can bloom, reaching a length of 7 cm, a width of up to 5 cm. Flowers can be used for food, they are often used in cooking and to create animal feed. In comfortable conditions, yucca forms a seed fruit. For growing in the garden, two varieties of this plant are used:

• Yucca gray... It can be distinguished by its long leaves and short stem. Thin green leaves have a slightly white border. Flowers are represented by long and small-branched inflorescences of a yellowish tint (see photo). The plant is unpretentious to the quality of the soil, it can grow calmly even in sand. Tolerates the most unfavorable climatic conditions, but can die at high humidity;

• Yucca filamentous... The leaf plate is xiphoid and up to 70 cm long. At the edges, the pours are framed with beautiful protruding threads and are slightly bent. (see photo) The peduncle can reach a length of up to 2.5 m, represented by drooping flowers of a light color. This is a frost-resistant variety of culture, the plant is able to withstand cold up to -20 ° C.

Even when buying planting material, you need to carefully read the description of the species and variety, and also look at the photos. As a rule, a description of the plant is presented in detail on the package with seeds and seedlings. This is only important for the choice of appearance, caring for yucca varieties is no different.

Choice of place and conditions of detention

Yucca is one of the most unpretentious garden plants. It is able to bloom and bear fruit in drought and frost. To achieve abundant flowering, vigorous growth and rich color, it is extremely important to comply with planting conditions and proper care. Below we will look at the key points of growing street yucca.

Lighting and location

Yucca, like other members of the family, prefers well-lit places, but it can bloom in partial shade, especially when planted in sunny regions. Lack of light negatively affects the state of the leaves - they stretch up strongly, the structure of the leaf plate changes.

In variegated yucca species, with a lack of lighting, the leaves may begin to fade and the rosette may become loose. In addition, protection from the wind is required, since this is a tall plant that can break down with strong gusts.

There are no requirements for the soil for planting, yucca is unpretentious in the quality and composition of the soil, but when planting in acidic substrates, the quality of flowering deteriorates. Before planting, it is advisable to add organic matter to which the plant reacts well. With a lack of minerals in the soil, flowering can be delayed for several years.

Temperature

Like other exotic plants, yucca thrives best when the air temperature is stable (15-22 ° C). However, most plant varieties can tolerate extreme heat and cold. Before planting, it is advisable to wait until the end of spring, when the air temperature reaches a stable level of 10 ° C.

The quality and abundance of flowering depends more on proper care and timeliness of fertilizing. Despite the fact that yucca is a frost-resistant plant, it is recommended to cover the bush in winter, especially when grown in cold regions with high air humidity (Siberia, Ural or Karelia).

Air and humidity

Drafts and high humidity are major problems when growing yucca. The plant does not tolerate wet soil and air poorly - the growth rate deteriorates, the leaves begin to change their structure and color.

It is for this reason that it is advisable to plant the flower next to the fence, as well as add sand to the soil when planting. The amount of watering depends on the growing season, but the yucca must absolutely not be poured.

Priming

Yucca blooms can be achieved in any soil. An important condition is that the root system has access to air, so you should not plant in a dense substrate or on a clayey area. Before planting in the ground, you need to add clean river sand, and then dig it up to the depth of the shovel bayonet.

Drainage (expanded clay, sand or gravel) should be added to the planting hole to avoid moisture stagnation. It is not recommended to plant a flower in a lowland and next to a reservoir, where there is an increased soil moisture and density of the earth.

Care

Yucca is considered one of the most unpretentious exotic garden plants. Even in unfavorable conditions, active growth and lush flowering can be achieved. To make the flower look healthy and regularly delight you with its beautiful flowers, you should follow the minimum care.

Watering

When growing street yucca, you should be careful about watering. The plant does not tolerate high humidity, reacting to excess water by changing the color of the leaf plates and deteriorating the structure of the rosette. Watering should be moderate as the topsoil dries. With an excess of moisture, root decay occurs, and with a lack of moisture, the leaves curl, in filamentous varieties the threads droop.

You can use rainwater, thawed water or leftover water at a warm temperature. To enhance growth, a little biostimulant with an increased nitrogen content can be added every 2 weeks. It is advisable to water the plant at the root so that there is no excess moisture on the surface. During flowering and in dry weather, it is recommended to additionally spray the leaves with cool water.

Top dressing

In the first two years of life, it is necessary to use complex mineral supplements for succulents or exotic plants. For the first time, fertilizer is applied in May before the beginning of the growing season, and then in the fall after the end of flowering. This scheme must be followed for the first two years of growing a flower.

Starting from the 2nd year of life, organic matter can be introduced (solution of mullein or bird droppings, compost). An adult yucca is fed in the second half of April, and a few weeks before the growing season (first decade of June), 30-40 g of superphosphate should be poured over the root. It is not necessary to water the mixture, since after rain it will naturally fall into the ground.

Pinching, pinching and pruning

The pruning procedure is necessary to rejuvenate the plant, as well as stimulate active growth. In addition, the shoots and seedlings after pinching can be used for subsequent planting - the yucca takes root well under the temperature conditions.

Pruning is desirable in the spring after removing the winter shelter, or in the fall after the end of flowering. Since there is only one growth point on the plant, when the stem is trimmed, its development stops completely, but starts again when the dormant buds awaken. Step-by-step trimming algorithm:

1. Watering should be completely stopped two days before the procedure.
2. The trunk is cut off with a clean and sharp knife or pruner so that the bark is not disturbed at the cut site. The incision should be made 7-9 cm below the level of leaf growth.
3. After 10-15 minutes, the cut should be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with charcoal. It is also recommended to apply a garden varnish to reduce the chance of infestation.
4. New shoots should normally appear after 14-20 days. In comfortable conditions, up to 5 young shoots appear on the plant.

The trimmed part can be used for later planting. To do this, the process is transferred to a less illuminated place and deepened into sandy soil. After rooting, the seedling is transplanted to a permanent place.

Loosening, mulching

The area next to the yucca needs to be loosened regularly and weeds removed. The procedure is important for the root system, since the flower does not grow well in dense soil. Loosening is carried out at least 3 times per season, as a crust forms on the surface of the soil.

At the same time, mulching can be carried out to retain moisture and reduce the growth of unnecessary plants nearby. Sawdust or fallen leaves are used as mulch.

Transfer

To enhance growth and abundance of flowering, an adult plant that has been in one place for more than 3-4 years must be transplanted to a new place. You can understand the need for transfer by the state of the outlet and sheet plates. They become dull, the severity of the color decreases. The rosette becomes loose, wrinkles and filaments appear.

The procedure is best done in spring or autumn, so as not to disturb the yucca during the growing season. Dig up the flower very carefully so as not to damage the powerful root system. It is best to transfer the plant along with a lump of earth to a pre-prepared planting hole. After transplantation, you should fertilize the yucca with a complex composition. Flowering after that will only be the next year.

Reproduction

Yucca can be propagated by seed or vegetatively. The use of seeds is less effective, since they do not always germinate, the plant develops slowly and does not bloom for a long time. Vegetative propagation is possible in the following ways:

• Dividing the bush... The simplest method, often used during transplantation. The procedure is carried out only on an adult plant. The optimal time is late spring (late April - early May). In the process of transplanting, you need to separate the root processes and shoots and roots, and then plant in a new place.
• Cuttings... As a planting material, you need to use strong and healthy apical shoots of a small size, since the large top of the stem does not root well. In the spring, a healthy shoot is cut at an acute angle and the cut is treated with a fungicide. After that, it is dried for up to 30 minutes in the shade and planted in moist prepared soil in a large container. From above you need to cover with glass or film. Rooting takes place up to 20 days, after which the yucca can be transplanted to a permanent place.

After transplanting, the plant should not be fed for 14 days, so as not to worsen the rooting process. However, moderate watering should be observed, as well as cover the plant when frost occurs. Growing plant care is standard for this flower.

Landing

Yucca is planted by cuttings or shoots in the spring, when there is no threat of night frosts, or in the fall. In this case, the flower must be prepared for winter. It is not recommended to propagate by seeds, since it is difficult to achieve harmonious growth in the middle latitudes of Russia. Landing Algorithm:

1. After purchasing the planting material, the plant must be pre-hardened. To do this, the seedling is taken out into the street or balcony, first for 1-2 hours, gradually increasing the time by 1 hour every 2 days.
2. Yucca is planted in individual pits 70x70 cm and up to 50 cm deep. Drainage (gravel or coarse sand) should be laid on the bottom and 50 g of wood ash should be added. Then the bush is carefully planted in a prepared place and covered with a substrate.
3. After planting, the young plant should be watered moderately and mulched.

The work should be carried out in tight gloves to avoid injuries and cuts - the yucca leaves are very sharp. In a favorable climate, the plant can comfortably stay in one place for up to 15 years. Flowering begins only at 2-3 years of age.

Diseases and pests

Yucca is highly resistant to diseases and pests. In comfortable conditions and subject to the rules of care, problems during cultivation are extremely rare. The most dangerous insects for a flower are mealy worms, spider mites and scale insects.

The presence of pests can be determined by the characteristic brown or white spots on the leaves, growth retardation and lack of flowering. When the first signs of pests appear, you should thoroughly wipe the leaves and treat the plant with a complex contact insecticide.

Fungal infections are the most common diseases. They lead to a softening of the stem, the appearance of small spots on the leaf plates. It is advisable to remove the affected parts of the yucca, and then treat the soil and leaves with a synthetic fungicide.

Wintering

Shelter of garden yucca for the winter is required only when grown in conditions of middle and latitudes, as well as in the north. In warm regions, the plant calmly tolerates mild frosts. Winter preparation process:

1. At the end of October or the beginning of November, you need to collect all the leaves and cover them with a ribbon along the entire length so that a volumetric column is obtained.
2. The flower is wrapped in a dense cloth, agrofiber or burlap. It is recommended to put on a narrow wooden box without a bottom on top.
3. From above and from all sides, the box must be surrounded by hay, spruce branches or shelves.
4. The structure needs to be covered with foil, especially if you start the gardening season late.
5. A plant up to 2 years old is very sensitive to moisture, so in early spring it is necessary to remove excess snow, avoiding water entering the root system.

The winter shelter from the yucca is removed from the second half of March, when the snow begins to melt. Dry leaves left over from winter can be used as mulch.It is recommended to leave burlap until April, when stable warm weather is not established.

Reviews

Garden yucca is increasingly found in household plots throughout Russia. Florists note the plant's unpretentiousness, as well as resistance to unfavorable climates and soil quality.

Starting from the second year of life, yucca blooms profusely and for a long time, complementing the exterior of the site. It can be planted separately or as part of mixborders. The flower looks especially beautiful next to conifers.

The main disadvantage of this plant is its demand for moisture. Some growers note a deterioration in the condition of the leaves and a complete absence of flowering when planting in lowlands, areas with low-lying groundwater.

Tips

Yucca, with proper care, will become a real decoration of the personal plot. Experienced gardeners recommend observing the following rules when growing this unusual plant:

• transplanting should be carried out only in summer and early autumn, so as not to disturb the plant during the growing season;
• when digging, you need to carefully work with the root system, which can go into the ground up to 70 cm;
• the shoot that appears on the bush can be cut off and used for propagation;
• the new transplant site should not differ from the old one in terms of soil composition, soil quality and protection from drafts.

Garden yucca is the best choice for decorating a personal plot. Subject to the rules of care, it does not cause any problems, it blooms profusely and for a long time. The plant is unpretentious to the soil, withstands low temperatures and rarely becomes infected with diseases and pests. It is considered one of the most successful flowers for beginner gardeners.

Of the large number of ornamental plants that modern gardeners grow, garden camellia stands out for its delicate flowers and evergreen waxy leaves.

The plant cannot be called unpretentious.

To achieve a good result, the correct planting and care of the garden camellia must be organized.

Preparing for planting garden camellia

The preparatory work prior to planting a plant in the garden includes the correct choice of a place for its further growth, an appropriately prepared soil and healthy seedlings. Winter-hardy varieties are suitable for growing outdoors in the Moscow region.

Choosing a place on the site

The right location of the camellia will guarantee its growth and lush flowering. Bright sunlight is unpleasant for this plant. It should penetrate to the flower through the lace of the branches, illuminate well, but not burn.

The eastern or western part of the garden will be convenient. When located on the south side, the camellia is planted among trees and bushes, in their light shade.

The danger is posed by strong wind and draft acting on the camellia bushes. It is necessary to provide protection against such influences. It is unacceptable to plant a flower in places with close occurrence and stagnation of water.

This causes root decay and the plant dies. Camellia is planted on small elevations so that the roots do not get wet.

It is convenient to plant a plant along the fence of the site or at the eastern or western wall of the house. It is appropriate to plant a climbing curly camellia here. She will gracefully decorate even an unsightly fence, decorate a gazebo or a terrace.

Soil preparation

Camellias need acidic soil. When preparing a site for its landing, this must be taken into account. For planting flowers in containers, use soil purchased in specialized stores.

Suitable for azaleas and rhododendrons.

The best would be a composition of equal parts:

• high-moor peat;
• humus;
• coniferous land;
• sand;
• vermiculite or perlite.

When planting in the ground, you need to provide the same soil. For drainage, expanded clay and fine gravel are added to the garden bed. They monitor the acidity of the soil. For acidification, the bush is mulched with a pine or spruce needle or crushed bark of these trees.

Selection and preparation of planting material

When buying planting material, the following conditions should be observed:

1. Purchase seedlings in specialized nurseries and garden centers. The cultivation of the plant should be carried out by specialists.
2. The selected material should be 4 years old and have lignified shoots.
3. Choose varieties that are suitable for growing in your climate. For the middle lane, winter-hardy varieties are chosen, if you do not plan to transplant the flower into pots for the winter and move it indoors.
4. Carry out an external examination of the seedling. There should be no signs of disease on it, the leaves are clean and green. When buying a potted plant, make sure that the root system surrounds its entire volume.

Technology of planting garden camellia in open ground

The flower is planted in open ground from April to mid-June. By the onset of cold weather, the plant will gain strength and take root well.

Dig planting holes in the prepared bed. Their volume should be twice the volume of an earthen coma with plant roots. At the bottom we lay a drainage layer of expanded clay or fine gravel 20 cm thick.

Next, we fill in a pile of earth of the required composition. We place a seedling on it, carefully spread the roots and sprinkle with a layer of earth. The root collar of the seedling should not be covered with soil.

We compact the soil near the trunk and water it with water. We mulch with peat.

Garden camellia care

Planting and caring for a garden camellia must be carried out in compliance with certain rules. Let's consider them in more detail.

Watering rules

The plant needs regular watering. This is especially important in summer, in dry and hot weather. You don't need to keep the soil constantly moist. In extreme heat, camellia is sprayed.

This must be done with care so that no water droplets fall on the flowers.

Water for irrigation is not used hard, well-settled. It is useful to combine watering with top dressing. To do this, use a weak fertilizer solution.

If the plant is transplanted into a container for wintering and stored in a cool room, care must be taken to ensure that the soil does not dry out. Watering is not needed often, but it is still necessary.

Loosening and mulching

Loosening is carried out after watering, this helps to avoid the formation of a soil crust. So that the earth does not dry out in summer, it is useful to mulch it with mown grass, humus, bark or sawdust.

These materials increase the acidity of the soil, which is very beneficial for the plant. In any case, the root collar must be open so that it does not rot.

Selection and timing of fertilization

Camellia has a good root system that effectively absorbs nutrients from the soil. This crop requires a minimum amount of fertilizer.

Overfeeding will do the flower more harm than good. Before feeding, be sure to water the soil with water.

It is necessary to fertilize in April, when the plant begins to grow rapidly and new shoots are formed. For this, a complex composition of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur is used.

Moreover, the solution should be prepared twice as weak as indicated in the instructions for the composition. A good feeding would be an infusion of chicken manure. Formulations intended for rhododendrons and azaleas are suitable.

Fertilize the plant twice a month until the end of summer. In the fall, top dressing is unacceptable. Enhanced nutrition will cause vigorous growth of shoots. They will not have time to woody before the onset of cold weather and will die off. A young plant may freeze.

Pruning

Cut camellias for crown formation, better branching and a beautiful shape. This is done in the spring, pinching the tops of the shoots.

To stimulate the growth of axillary buds, autumn pruning of shoots is performed. This allows you to get a beautiful ornamental shrub.

Along with bush varieties, tree-like camellias are also used. The beautiful tree reaches a height of 15 m. Pruning for these varieties is done in a similar way.

Pruning of branches can be done after the end of the flowering period. Do not prune the plant too hard. This will weaken him and it will take more care.

"Particular attention should be paid to trimming the curly camellia."

Another important point when caring for camellia is its transplant. An indoor flower needs to move from pot to pot every two years. When growing in a garden, this condition is optional.

The plant should be transplanted if it shows weak growth and flowering, perhaps you have chosen the wrong place for it. The transplant is carried out during the resting period of the plant. The best time will be late autumn before the onset of frost.

Preparing for winter

In the southern regions, camellia can easily winter in the ground without shelter. Even blooming in winter is possible. The middle lane and Siberia will require more careful plant care.

Some gardeners transplant the flower into containers and transfer it to winter indoors or in a warm greenhouse.

An insulated balcony or terrace is suitable for the winter existence of a camellia. Daytime temperature should not exceed + 120C, and at night it should vary from 0 to 50C.

Under such conditions, camellia can please with flowering, which looks very beautiful in a snowy and frosty winter.

If you leave the plant for the winter in the ground, you should take care of the shelter. If it is not possible to observe the camellia constantly, mulch the soil around the bush with peat, bark or leaves.

In winter, covered with snow, it will be well preserved and will decorate the garden with a green oasis. In case of a winter with little snow, it is necessary to provide additional cover with lutrasil or dry grass.

Diseases and pests

Disease is easier to prevent than to cure, so pay close attention to your exotic flower. At the first manifestations of the disease or harmful insects, treatment should be carried out and the damaged parts of the plant should be removed.

Among pests, camellia is besieged:

Aphid. Small insects stick around shoots and leaves, which dry out from this. With a large number of aphids, the plant may die completely. There are various ways to remove the pest.

The easiest one is to wash it off with soapy water. It should be fed to the plant under pressure. You can use a biological solution of fitoverm.

Spider mite. Covers the plant with cobwebs containing small larvae. They damage the leaves, causing them to dry out. The tick multiplies quickly, and if you do not get rid of it in time, the plant will die.

It is preferable to use biological preparations phytoverm, bicol, bitoxybacil, created on the basis of bacteria and microorganisms that are not dangerous to humans, to combat ticks.

It is possible to use acarin. It is a fast-acting, low-toxicity chemical.

An unpleasant phenomenon when growing in a garden for camellia can be the appearance of various fungi on the leaves and shoots. It is difficult to deal with them. To prevent diseases, it is necessary not to overmoisten the soil and provide ventilation of the bushes.

With the onset of winter, it is good to treat the camellia with copper sulfate, Bordeaux mixture, and Saporol.

Reproduction of camellia garden

Camellia breeding methods are no different from those for other horticultural crops. Flower cultivation is possible:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• layering;
• vaccinations.

Let's consider the most commonly used ones.

By cuttings

In early August, half-lignified shoots are cut from the bush. The stalk should be no more than 8 cm long and have five leaves. In the future, the shoot needs to be rooted.

For this, a substrate is prepared, consisting of a mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions. Rooting is best done in separate pots.

The soil is well moisturized. It is useful to dip the tip of the cutting into phytohormone. The required soil temperature is 25 ° C. Cover the planting with a transparent container to create a greenhouse effect and facilitate the formation of roots.

After two months, the shelter is carefully removed and they continue to care for the camellia as a house plant.

Seed

Camellia seeds ripen in mid-October. They immediately begin to plant them.

You should know! "That camellia seeds contain a lot of essential oils, which is why they take a long time to germinate."

For sowing seeds, use wooden boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand. Peat creates the necessary acidic environment, and sand provides soil looseness and drainage.

For active germination of seeds and their further growth, it is necessary to maintain a room temperature of 20 ° C. This process lasts for a year. Only after the appearance of two leaves, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots, 7 cm in diameter.

Camellia seedlings obtained from seeds are much more resistant and adapt well to further growth. They bloom in the fifth year, but there have been cases of earlier flowering - after three years.

Frost-resistant varieties of camellia

A very beautiful exotic flower could not fail to attract the attention of breeders. Varieties have been created that can withstand winter frosts down to -20 ° C when growing flowers in the open field.

Consider the best frost-resistant camellia varieties. They begin to bloom in early spring and retain their green leaves in winter frosts.

Donation is an ornamental shrub with fragile delicate pink purple flowers. The rounded shape of the petals is reminiscent of orchids.

The bush grows slowly, but allows slight flaws when growing. Even an inexperienced gardener can take care of him. The bush has a lush dark green crown, covered with large bright flowers.

Debbie camellia bears deep purple-pink flowers. The shrub grows rapidly and blooms profusely. It has double, rounded petals similar to Donation flowers.

The plant of this variety is resistant to the surrounding climate, not afraid of precipitation and frost in late spring. Suitable for people who first encountered such a plant.

Japanese breeders' variety Hagoromo blooms with pearl pink buds. These flowers are chameleons. As they bloom more and more, they turn white. A beautiful and delicate flower.

FreedomBell bears flowers of a coral red shade with an overflow, decorated with bright stamens. It has large decorative glossy leaves. This variety tolerates pruning well, shoots can be greatly shortened when freezing.

Any type of garden camellia, whether it be a bush, a tree variety or a climbing liana, will decorate your home garden. This gorgeous plant is a winning accent in any landscape design.

Camellia is called "the empress of garden flowers" for a reason. You can create a secluded gazebo entwined with a climbing camellia. The bushes planted along the fence form a natural hedge.

A bush or gorgeous tree will create a striking accent in the lawn. In winter, on the white snow, the bright greenery of the evergreen shrub will look fabulous and unique.

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Coreopsis perennial

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Dacha is not only garden beds, berry bushes and fruit trees. Perennial flowers help to create beauty on the site. For a garden, unpretentious long-flowering plants are indispensable, as a magnificent frame for a canvas created by the labor of a summer resident.

It may seem to novice gardeners that breaking up a flower garden and caring for it is too troublesome. But with the right choice of crops, taking care of flowers will not take much time, and the buds will open from early spring to late autumn.

The most unpretentious flowers for spring

Early spring in the middle lane does not please with colors. Annual flowers have not yet been sown, even the most unpretentious perennials for summer cottages are just showing up from under the ground.

Are there really plants that are ready to bloom in the first warm days? Yes, wintering bulbous crops have formed the rudiments of buds since autumn and in the spring they are the first to illuminate the flower beds with all shades of the rainbow.

Crocuses

Crocus corollas of white, blue, yellow and even striped colors appear practically from under the snow. Plants with a height of 7 to 15 cm bloom from March to May, and after the withering of the flowers they retire. Planting of bulbs is carried out in the traditional terms for spring bulbous plants, from August to September. The best place for crocuses is in well-lit areas or partial shade, for example, under the crowns of shrubs or trees that have not yet blossomed.

Bright crocus flowers look great in group plantings, forming spectacular spots among stones, on alpine slides or in flower beds. Single plants enliven the look of a spring lawn.

Muscari

From April to almost the end of May, low, from 10 to 20 cm, stems appear on the flower beds, crowned with inflorescences of small, bell-shaped flowers. This is muscari or mouse hyacinth. A modest ornamental bulbous plant can rightfully be included in the list of unpretentious flowers for summer cottages and gardens.

Once having planted very small bulbs somewhere under the crowns of garden trees, under large bushes of lilacs or mock-mushrooms, you can observe the charming flowering of muscari for many years, of which there will be more and more every year.

You can plant overgrown clumps of muscari in June, when the elongated linear leaves and blue or blue flowers fade.

Planting is carried out in late summer or in the first weeks of autumn.

During the flowering period, plants need moisture, but it will be better to accumulate muscari forces in a well-heated dry ground.The advantage of these unpretentious perennial flowers is stable flowering in one place, undemanding care and excellent combination with other primroses.

Pushkinia

Incredibly beautiful and fresh green clumps of Pushkinia with blue, white and blue inflorescences rising above the foliage.

This bulbous species blooms in April and May. Plants up to 20 cm in height love the sun or light partial shade, look great in mass plantings, as well as in the vicinity of primroses, medium-sized varieties of daffodils, carved green dicentra and stonecrops wintering under the snow.

Tulips

Tulip is not only the most common perennials in summer cottages, but also the most unpretentious flowers. Today, lovers of spring flowers have hundreds and thousands of magnificent varieties at their disposal. However, not everyone knows that these garden plants belong to several species, differing both in appearance and in the timing of flowering.

Skillfully choosing varieties, with the help of tulips alone with a height of 10 to 50 cm, you can decorate an area from flower beds to an alpine slide. The first tulips start blooming in March, and the latest varieties wither at the end of May.

Tulip bulbs are planted in the first half of autumn in sunny areas with loose, nutrient-rich soil.

During growth and flowering, plants need regular watering, which is stopped in the summer when the bulbs are resting.

Garden tulip species react differently to frost. If in the southern regions the most lush terry and lily varieties can be considered unpretentious plants for a summer residence and a garden, in the northern regions the common tulips of Greig, Gesner and Foster need annual digging.

Botanical tulips or Kaufman tulips that winter easily in any climate will help to replace them.

Daffodils

Together with tulips, daffodils appear in garden beds. Flowering lasts from April to the last days of May, while flowers illuminate the garden not only with bright sunny shades, but also with an exquisite aroma.

Depending on the variety, the plants reach a height of 30 to 60 cm. Flowers can be either simple or double, with a short or long crown. Daffodils prefer areas with loose, fertile soil. They grow well in the sun and under the crowns that open at this time. The main thing is that the soil in which the bulbs were planted in autumn should not be oversaturated with moisture.

Daffodils are long-blooming, unpretentious garden flowers that are successfully used in mixed plantings with tulips, incense, garden fern varieties, dicentra and other plants. Daffodils for several years feel great in one place. Growing up, they form very dense clumps, which are planted after the foliage has wilted, that is, at the beginning of summer.

Overwintering bulbous cultures, appearing from nowhere in the spring, are unpretentious and bright, but at the same time their foliage cannot retain decorativeness for a long time. It dies off, exposing the place in the flowerbed, so in advance it is worth taking care of planting a number of "replacement" crops, for example, peony bushes, perennial poppies or aquilegia.

Periwinkle

It's one thing to pick up long-blooming perennials and unpretentious flowers for a garden in the sun. Another is to find the same plants for both open and shady areas.

There are not so many shade-tolerant horticultural crops - a striking example of one of them is periwinkle. A groundcover or small shrubs bloom in the midst of spring and spread quickly, rooting without difficulty upon contact with the ground.

Periwinkle cultivars create spectacular clumps of fresh greenery, spotted in all shades of blue, white, pink and purple. At the disposal of gardeners, specimens with simple and terry corollas, smooth and variegated foliage.

Dicenter

Many ornamental plants are associated with romantic legends.Dicenter is no exception, which, thanks to such a story, is better known not by its real name, but as a "broken heart".

Thanks to the powerful rhizomes of the dicenter, it tolerates winter cold without loss. Foliage dying off in autumn with the arrival of heat again rises above the ground, in different varieties reaching a height of 30 to 100 cm. In May, a spectacular plant is covered with white, pink or two-colored corollas of bizarre, heart-shaped, collected in racemes. Flowering lasts about a month, and under the transparent shade of young foliage, drooping inflorescences of an unpretentious plant for a summer residence and a garden look brighter and last longer.

Dicentra will be indispensable in a flower bed in the vicinity of primroses and daffodils, muscari, ferns and ornamental varieties of onions.

The flowering plant is worthy of admiration in a single planting, and after the withering of the inflorescences, it will become an excellent background for other flowers.

Lily of the valley

The classic spring flower bed is forest lilies of the valley that bloom in May. Thanks to the creeping rhizomes, the plants hibernate. In the spring, leathery leaves rolled into dense tubes first appear on the flower beds, then peduncles up to 30 cm high rise above the unfolded rosettes. Each inflorescence contains from 6 to 20 white or pinkish, fragrant bells. Flowering lasts until the beginning of summer, and then red rounded berries appear in place of flowers.

The advantage of these unpretentious garden perennials is flowers that do not lose their beauty in the sun and in the shade, the ability to grow in one place for up to 10 years.

Kupena

In the forest, next to the lily of the valley clumps, you can see graceful kupena plants. Blooming from May to June, the perennial is not as bright as other spring flowers.

But in shady areas, near conifers and shrubs, a culture from 30 to 80 cm high with drooping white or greenish bell flowers is simply irreplaceable.

Brunner

May is the month of the brightest greenery and unusually lush flowering of garden perennials.

At this time, under the crowns of trees, near paths and reservoirs, under the protection of walls and fences, blue Brunner flowers appear. Plants with a height of 30 to 50 cm, with decorative pointed-heart-shaped foliage, prefers to settle in partial shade, where there is enough moisture and nutrition for lush deciduous rosettes and inflorescences towering above them.

Delicate blue unpretentious garden flowers enliven the most shady corners, do not require special care, thanks to attractive, often variegated foliage, they protect decorativeness for a long time and can do without transplanting for many years.

In favorable conditions, brunner grows excellently and reproduces by dividing the bush.

Summer, beautiful and unpretentious flowers for giving

Bright, rapidly growing annuals within 1-2 months after sowing flower beds in the most incredible colors. But autumn comes and the plants complete their short life. The next spring, the summer resident begins with the selection of annual, ornamental crops, sowing and caring for young seedlings. This takes a lot of precious time, which could be devoted to vegetable seedlings, caring for fruit and berry plantings.

Long-flowering perennials specially selected for the garden, unpretentious flowers that bloom in different seasons and do not need painstaking care will help to save time and effort. Although they bloom only in the second half of summer or in the second year, they live in one place for several years without a transplant.

Summer is the most fertile time for flowering plants. An incredible number of species are ready to give their flowers to the summer resident. The main thing is to choose from them those plants that can rightfully be called non-capricious and beautiful.

Aquilegia

When late tulips and daffodils bloom in the garden at the end of May, the ornamental foliage of aquilegia or watersheds begins to rise above the ground.The whimsical bells of this one of the most unpretentious perennials for giving, as in the photo of flowers, are revealed on high erect peduncles.

Flowering lasts almost without interruption from the end of May to September. And even without flowers, plants do not lose their charm. Their leaves take on purple and purple tones by autumn. Depending on the variety, aquilegia can grow from 30 to 80 cm in height. All perennials of this species grow well in the shade and in open areas. Already from the name it is clear that the catchment loves moisture, but even with a shortage of irrigation, it is able to find water thanks to its powerful rod rhizomes. Aquilegia grows best on light drained soils.

Flowers appear in the second year of life. Mature plants can be divided. This can be done in early spring or autumn.

Although under favorable conditions aquilegia reproduces by self-sowing, this method does not allow preserving the properties of hybrid and varietal specimens. Seedlings are most often purple or pink in color and can become a kind of weeds if immature seed pods are not removed in time or flower beds are not weeded.

Swimsuit

The bathing suit, beloved by many summer residents, also belongs to the moisture-loving unpretentious garden flowers.

Its yellow or orange flowers open in May and, with regular watering, do not disappear until the second half of summer. The plant, with a height of 50 to 90 cm, is noticeable enough to lead in group plantings near water bodies and in shady corners of the garden. Tall flower stalks will be safe next to fences and ornamental shrubs.

Arabis

Although the flowering of arabis begins in the second half of spring, this unpretentious perennial can rightfully be considered a summer one, since its flowering does not end until the very frost.

A groundcover or creeping plant with stems 20 to 30 cm long, the planting field quickly forms dense, pillow-like curtains covered with clusters of small white, pink or purple flowers.
Trimming helps to prolong flowering and maintain the shape of the plantings. Arabis feels best in open areas with light, aerated soil. This culture with variegated foliage is indispensable when decorating borders, slides and other parts of the garden.

Doronicum

At the junction of spring and summer, many rhizome perennials take the baton of flowering in bulbous plants. Not an exception - a bright doronicum with large yellow inflorescences-baskets, reminiscent of chamomile. Flowers open on erect, bare or leafy stems 30–80 cm high. Unpretentious flowers for summer cottages and gardens are planted in the sun or in a transparent shade, but not under tree crowns.

Doronicum plants love moisture, in order to preserve it in the soil under light green foliage, the soil is mulched.

When the bloom ends, the greens also wither. To hide the gap formed in the flowerbed, decorative ferns, curtains of nivyanik and aquilegia will help, with which doronicum is perfectly combined.

Astilba

It's amazing how one kind of perennial can decorate an entire garden. This is within the power of the numerous varieties of astilba that bloom from June to September. Lush inflorescences that are racemose or panicle-like are not the only decoration of this plant. The shade-tolerant carved foliage of astilba enlivens the site no less. To do this, you just need to cut off the peduncles with dead inflorescences in time.
Depending on the variety and species, the height of the plants ranges from 40 to 120 cm. Astilbe blooms better with regular moistening of the soil, but they do not like stagnant moisture. In garden plantings, these beautiful and unpretentious flowers for summer cottages look great against the background of conifers, and they themselves will be a luxurious frame for low-growing plants.

Geranium

Many cultivars of garden perennials are descendants of wild-growing species, which can be found literally behind the fence of the summer cottage.

From May until the end of summer, the flowering of amazingly quivering geraniums continues.Corollas of all shades of pink, purple, lilac and blue, isolated or collected in inflorescences, are short-lived. All day long, and a new one appears in the place of a withered flower.

When the flowering season is over, the garden is not empty thanks to the decorative cut foliage of the geraniums. By autumn, it is painted in bright golden, orange and purple tones and revives faded flower beds and hills right up to the snow.

The height of the most unpretentious perennial flowers for a summer residence, depending on the type, is from 10 cm to a meter. All plants are unassuming and do not impose special requirements on the soil; they grow in the light and under the crowns.

Loosestrife

If there is room for a creeping perennial in the garden, or you need to plant a tall plant with bright flowers and the same decorative leaves, there may be one answer - a loosestrife!

How is this possible? We are talking about different types of loosestrife, equally unpretentious and suitable for decorating a plot.

Depending on the variety and species, flowers that easily adapt to different conditions have a height of 20 to 80 cm.

For shady corners and partial shade, a monetaceous or meadow loosestrife with long recumbent stems covered with coin-like rounded leaves is perfect. This culture is indispensable next to the reservoir, in wet areas, which will be successfully revived by light green foliage and yellow flowers.

To decorate flower beds, mixborders and rocky hills, erect types of loosestrife with green or variegated foliage and yellow flowers are used, forming spectacular spike-shaped inflorescences in the upper part of the stem. All loosestrife is unpretentious, tolerates frost perfectly and is rarely affected by pests.

Perennial cornflower

Annual cornflowers relatively recently moved from the meadow to the garden. They were followed by their perennial relatives. Plants blooming from June to September form spectacular, thanks to the carved, rich green foliage of curtains with a height of 40 cm to a meter.

One of the most unpretentious perennial flowers for summer cottages, cornflowers grow well both in the sun and in partial shade. They do not have any special requirements for the soil, they get along well with other crops and will be an excellent background for peonies, cornflower, undersized flowering and ornamental-deciduous plants in flower beds.

Today, gardeners have varieties of perennial cornflower with flowers of violet-pink, lilac, purple and white at their disposal. The large-headed cornflower has fluffy flowers of an original yellow color.

Turkish carnation

In June, the multi-colored caps of the Turkish carnation are revealed. The bright flowers with jagged petals are very small, but collected in dense inflorescences, they will perfectly revive the summer cottage, create a summer mood and paint the flower beds in all shades from white to deep purple.

A distinctive feature of the plant is flowering that lasts until September, the possibility of self-seeding and incredible color combinations. The height of a Turkish carnation, depending on the variety, ranges from 40 to 60 centimeters. Plants demonstrate maximum decorativeness in the light or in partial shade, if they are planted next to decorative leafy crops.

Lupine

Lupins are not only among the most unpretentious garden flowers. This perennial crop alone can bloom an entire site. Blue, white, pink, purple and bicolor spike-shaped inflorescences appear in the first half of June, and then re-flowering begins in the second half of summer.

Plants up to one meter in height bloom luxuriantly in the sun, do not like too fertilized soils and, thanks to their powerful rhizome, are able to survive in conditions of moisture deficit. In the garden, lupines are an ideal neighbor for a cornflower, multi-colored aquilegia, perennial poppies.

Poppy

By the splendor of flowering, perennial poppies can only be compared with peonies. Just one plant with corollas of scarlet, pink, white and purple color is enough to change the appearance of the most inconspicuous corner of the garden.

Despite the exotic appearance, poppies are completely unpretentious. They are not afraid of frost, grow excellently on any soil and tolerate drought without loss. But they react negatively to excessive moisture. Once settled on the site, with the help of very small seeds, the poppy can settle on its own, creating spectacular clumps of densely pubescent carved foliage.

Irises

There are more than a hundred species of irises in the world, many of which are actively used as ornamental plants. The flowering of garden varieties begins at the border of spring and summer, and continues until mid-July.

With a difference in color, size, habitat, these perennial rhizome plants have in common the appearance of pointed xiphoid leaves, collected in flattened bunches, as well as the graceful shape of flowers. Although the corolla of irises, opening for a day or a little more, cannot be called long-livers, the amia plants bloom profusely and for a long time thanks to the many simultaneous rising peduncles.

In the garden, irises are favored by light or barely shaded areas with light, loose soil.

During the growing season and flowering, plants need regular soil moisture. But you need to carefully intervene in the development of the curtain. Loosening and weeding can affect powerful rhizomes close to the surface.

The flowering shoots of irises rise 40–80 cm above the ground. White, yellow, pink, purple, cream, blue or light blue flowers are perfect for decorating the garden and are ideal for cutting.

Nivyanik

Chamomiles, along with cornflowers, are traditionally considered a symbol of Russian open spaces. Garden varieties of daisy are the same daisies, only much larger and more expressive. Simple and double inflorescences-baskets are crowned with erect stems with a height of 30 to 100 cm.

In the garden, the sycamore plant prefers to grow in open, well-lit areas with loose, nutrient-rich, but not too light soil. The plant responds to the lack of moisture and organic matter with flowers that shrink over time and the rapid withering of baskets.

Eurasian tree propagates by seeds, dividing adult clumps, and also by self-sowing. This must be taken into account if all crops have clearly defined boundaries in flower beds and mixborders. For the most lush flowering, it is advisable to divide the rosette of the daisy every few years.

The best neighbors for one of the most unpretentious perennials for a summer residence, as in the photo, are lupine flowers, gypsophila, bright poppies and bells. White inflorescences look great against the background of carved greenery and cornflowers inflorescences, next to decorative cereals and onions.

Bell

It will not be difficult even for beginners to grow bells in the country. Plants are unpretentious, resistant to diseases and pests, winter well without shelter. The only thing that interferes with the perennial is an excess of moisture and dense, poorly drained soil.

In nature, there are many types of bells with simple, semi- and double flowers in white, blue, lilac, pink and deep purple tones. Plants from 20 to 120 cm in height, depending on the type and shape, find a place on slides and as part of group plantings with cornflower, pyrethrum, lush peonies and strict cereals.

Stock-rose

Easily tolerating drought, with luxurious ornamental greenery and racemose inflorescences, the stock-rose can rightfully be considered the queen of the suburban area. Plants up to 2 meters high are among the largest in Russian gardens. They rise above other flowers and even fruit bushes.

Stock roses or mallow can easily create a living wall or become the center of a lush flower bed. Beautiful, unpretentious flowers for summer cottages grow on light, well-drained soils, propagate by seeds, including self-seeding. But moving a large plant to another place will be problematic. The transplant is hampered by powerful long rhizomes, damage which leads to the weakening and even death of the mallow.

Simple and double, white, yellow, pink and red, burgundy and bright crimson flowers on powerful erect stems are used to decorate hedges and walls, in flower beds and flower beds, as background plants. The group plantings of mallows of different shades are incredibly beautiful. In front of them, you can plant the same unpretentious phloxes, bells, decorative forms of onions, cornflowers and undersized varieties of spirea, as well as any summer season.

Spicy-aromatic unpretentious perennials for summer cottages

When choosing long-blooming, unpretentious flowers for the garden, one should not overlook the plants that are often popular as spicy, medicinal or fragrant herbs. Moreover, many of them are in no way inferior to flowering perennials, their flowers will decorate flower beds and can be used for cutting.

Today, many varieties of mint, lemon balm, catnip are available to gardeners. On the site, if desired, you can plant hyssop, thyme and even lavender. These plants look great in a separate, "pharmacy" bed, but they can be easily imagined as part of a mixborder, in a rural-style flower bed or in the form of free clumps near a hedge or wall of a house.

Unpretentious and useful perennials, thanks to lush greenery, are decorative from spring to frost. And during flowering, they attract a lot of bees and other pollinating insects.

Oregano

Oregano is a native inhabitant of the European part of Russia. The plant, familiar to many for its characteristic aroma of greenery and pink-lilac caps of inflorescences, prefers to settle in open, well-lit areas with light soil. In nature, oregano can be seen in clearings and forest edges, in oak forests and in dry meadows.

The first oregano greens appear in March, literally from under the snow. By June, the plant forms a lush cap of densely leafy shoots 20 to 50 centimeters high. And a month later, stems with delicate inflorescences-baskets rise above the greens.

The entire aerial part of the plant, incredibly revered in France, Italy, and the USA, has a spicy aroma. Here oregano is grown as a natural seasoning for sauces, salads, pasta and poultry, baked goods, in particular, pizza. Tea with herbs and oregano flowers is no less tasty. Collecting oregano or oregano is carried out from July to October, while the perennial blooms.

The herbaceous shrubs of oregano strewn with flowers are magnificent in the company of cornflower, lupines, rudbeckia, clouds of pink-white gypsophila and cereals.

Lofant

Lofant or multiforme with lilac-purple or white spike-shaped inflorescences is one of the most noticeable medicinal and ornamental perennial plants. In the garden, the culture easily settles in the lightest areas, does not feel discomfort even in the sun itself and winters well, already from early spring showing everyone the first greens with a purple or bluish tint.

Lofant is so unpretentious that it grows and blooms not only with a lack of moisture, but also on poor soils. Simple care and a little attention - and an unassuming plant will generously share with the summer resident a fragrant, smell reminiscent of anise or licorice, a herb rich in essential oils and useful for colds, diseases of the digestive system and urinary system.

In the garden, the spectacular inflorescences of the lofant will not go unnoticed by either people or bees. The plant, which blooms from June to late summer, is suitable for decorating front gardens and easily tolerates cutting.

Monarda

Monarda with white, pink, lilac and purple inflorescences is also a resident of sunny, sheltered from the wind corners of the garden with light soil.

For decorative purposes, this fragrant perennial is planted next to other similar plants, as well as in the vicinity of coreopsis and rudbeckia, nivyanik and low-growing annuals, for which a monard up to a meter high will be a luxurious background.

An interesting combination of this plant with an annual delphinium, blue and white large-flowered bells, stonecrops and other crops, allowing you to imitate a corner of a wild meadow in the garden.

In summer cottages, you can often find lemon monarda. Its greenery during the flowering period, that is, from July to September, accumulates a lot of essential oils close to the oils of lemon balm, hyssop, basil and other spicy-flavoring and medicinal plants of their Yasnotkov family.

Unpretentious autumn flowers: long-flowering perennials for the garden

With the onset of September, autumn comes into its own faster and faster. But it is too early to part with the beauty of the garden. Until the snow falls, the curtains of garden geraniums amaze with the play of bright colors, the badan dresses up in purple tones, and on the slides and curbs they amaze with the bizarre forms of stonecrop. There are a lot of unpretentious garden perennials in the garden.

Phlox

One of the brightest "stars" of the autumn flower bed is phlox. These plants winter excellently in most regions, form green clumps in spring, and bloom in the second half of summer, practically until October, retaining an incredible variety of colors and splendor of inflorescences.

Depending on the type and variety, phloxes will be indispensable on alpine slides and traditional flower beds, near small ponds and near buildings, which tall plants perfectly decorate at any time of the year.

In the list of cultivated phlox today there are more than four dozen species, among which only Drummond's phlox is an annual. All other creeping, bushy, semi-lying forms with stems from 20 to 150 cm in height are ready to settle in the garden of a lover of decorative and unpretentious perennial flowers for many years.

Perennial asters

Annual asters are the constant leaders in the list of garden summer cottages and gardens. However, true or perennial asters are often and undeservedly forgotten.

From August until the snow, these plants bloom, illuminating the entire area with flashes of blue, white, pink, purple hues. There are more than 200 types of perennial asters, differing in size, lifestyle and shape. Alpine aster is quite small, and its inflorescences-baskets are located on herbaceous erect stems, resembling the familiar chamomile. And in the Italian variety - the form of a herbaceous, densely leafy shrub, completely covered with medium-sized flowers. Moreover, all types are extremely decorative and not capricious.

The height of perennial asters varies from 20 centimeters to one and a half meters. Flowers can be not only of different colors, but simple and double. These perennials form dense dark green clumps in spring, easily tolerate excess light and moisture deficit in summer, and completely transform the garden in autumn.

Shrub forms lend themselves to shaping, with their help you can create dense living borders and picturesque groups with other autumn plants.

The only drawback of perennial asters is inherent in many perennial crops. A plant that takes root in the garden begins to multiply uncontrollably, quickly mastering new territories. So that the previously colorful flower bed does not turn into the "kingdom" of asters, you will have to monitor the settlement of the shrub and regularly remove the shoots.

Each of the 30 described ornamental plants can claim the title of the most unpretentious perennial flower for a summer residence. All of them are beautiful and amazing in their own way. In fact, the list of non-capricious cultures requiring minimal attention and generously sharing their beauty is not three dozen, but much more. One has only to look around, notice and transfer an interesting plant to the garden, choosing a suitable place and neighborhood for the flower.

We invite you dear readers to share information about your favorite perennial plants.

Video about ground cover perennials in the garden