Hydrangea panicled planting and care in the open field pruning

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1.And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid fertilizing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot.Use only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest.Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud a bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the foil and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

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Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excess direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENZIUM WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

Common name "hydrangea" these plants were given 300 years ago in honor of the princess who bore that name. The type of "princesses" with paniculate inflorescences emits a wonderful fragrance during the flowering season.

Smell exactly the same panicle hydrangeas at home, in Japan, China and Sakhalin, where they grow as perennial deciduous bushes and trees up to three meters high.

Thanks to painstaking and long-term selection, frost-resistant plants with luxurious, white and pink flowering were obtained from the original forms.

…

Varieties that can withstand thirty-degree cold, develop successfully and bloom profusely in the open ground of the middle lane.

Outdoor care

Seat selection

Adult plants of this species do not tolerate transplanting well, so the place where the seedling will grow and develop must be constant.

The landing site must be protected from strong wind and well lit; slight shading possible.

The landing site should not be subject to the danger of snow layers coming off the roof: fragile wood will not withstand the additional load.

Priming

The soil should be slightly acidic, moderately loose and sufficiently nutritious.

Its composition can be as follows: peat, humus, sod, leafy soil and sand in equal amounts.

They also use an "equal" mixture of peat, humus and garden soil.

Landing

The best time to land in open ground is Spring... Bushes that have wintered in the ground can be planted immediately after the soil thaws, and greenhouse ones with leaves - only at the end of spring, after the end of frost.

The planting hole should be sized to provide sufficient space for the seedling's root system to grow. The usual sizes are from 0.5 to 0.8 meters in length and width. The depth may be slightly shallower, as the roots of paniculate hydrangeas grow in breadth rather than in depth.

If the soil is clay, a drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay, brick or ceramic broken is laid on the bottom.

Sandy soils, on the other hand, are compacted with a layer of clay at the bottom of the planting pit.

If the groundwater is high, landing on a hill is mandatory.

In the prepared planting pit, place a layer of soil mixture and carefully spread the moistened root system.

They fill up the soil, carefully compacting it. As a result the root collar should be flush with the soil surface - but not deeper.

Watered then the surface of the earth is mulched peat chips or crushed bark. This last operation is necessary in order for the soil under the bush to retain moisture longer.

Watering

Optimal irrigation the water must be soft, the ideal option is irrigation with rainwater.

Water from the water supply network should settle well and warm up, and from time to time it is useful add a small amount of lemon juice or vinegar.

Panicle hydrangea, unlike many other species of this plant, is relatively drought-resistant, however, in dry summers, systematic abundant watering is necessary.

Top dressing

The plant responds well to mineral feeding with a complex for heather, rhododendrons and azaleas. The best option is special mixtures designed specifically for hydrangeas... You can get them from time to time supplement with organic compounds.

The timing of fertilization takes into account the main phases of growth and development:

• spring feeding promotes the formation of young shoots;
• june promotes abundant bud formation;
• summer, during the flowering period, prolongs flowering and is carried out twice a month. The potash and phosphorus components should be added to these dressings, and the nitrogen component should be reduced.
• Autumn, before the rest period, consists of superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Pruning

These fast growing bushes can and should prune in both autumn and spring, as flower buds open on the shoots of the current year.

Moreover, strong pruning up to the level of four to six or even up to two or three kidneys stimulates the mass formation of powerful shoots with large inflorescences.

Clever pruning also helps to form this hydrangea as attractive trees.

In this case, a vertical leading shoot and 4-5 lateral ones are chosen on a young plant, the remaining shoots are cut out, the left side ones are pinched and the “leader” is allowed to grow 1-1.5 meters.

After that, its top is cut off, stimulating the formation of skeletal branches of the crown, and the lateral "support" is removed.

How to shelter for the winter?

Adult panicle hydrangeas do not need winter shelter, but young plants better bend to the ground and cover with spruce branches.

For mature busheshaving fragile wood, heavy snowfalls are dangerous.

To prevent the branches from breaking off, they are tied together and attached to a reliable support.

Bloom

Abundant flowering of fragrant "brooms" begins in the middle of summer and lasts until autumn

Coloration inflorescences depends on their age (the older, the pinker) and on the acidity of the soil: flowers that are white in neutral ground take on pink shades in an acidic substrate.

This property is widely used, especially since acidified, soft water is beneficial for plants.

Some varieties do not form lush inflorescences at a young age, however, with age, flowering increases and reaches its proper forms.

The blossoming "panicles" stand in the cut for a long time. Even when dried, they retain their shape, color and partly their aroma.

Required pruning all inflorescences before the first heavy snowfall, as the heavy snow caps on these "panicles" will create a load that can become unbearable for fragile branches.

Reproduction

Seeds of panicle hydrangea often do not ripen in the middle lane, and their germination capacity lasts no longer than a month. Therefore, they multiply it vegetatively: layering and cuttings.

Reproduction by layering. In the spring or at the end of summer, a suitable branch is bent to the ground, fixed in the middle, slightly deepened and buried in this place. The top of the branch is tied to a support to give it an upright position. Within a year, the buried part forms a sufficient root system, after which the new plant can be separated from the mother plant.

Propagation by cuttingsand. This method has two optimal periods: spring, in which cuttings are harvested from waste after pruning, and summer, June.

• Spring cuttings cut into 3-5 internodes from selected branches previously kept in water for two to three days. The lower sections are treated with a root formation stimulator and planted in a mixture of sand and peat, deepening by about two-thirds of the length. The planting is covered with plastic wrap, moistened, ventilated and kept at a temperature of 14-17 degrees. Rooting usually occurs within a month.
• Summer cuttings - a more risky material for rooting, since at this time the plant tissues contain much less moisture. Nevertheless, the period from 10 to 15 June is considered the most successful for this type of breeding. The material for ten-centimeter cuttings is young shoots without flower buds in the lower part of the bush. They are broken out with a "heel" and the core is treated at the fracture with a root formation stimulator. Save 3-4 top sheets, and remove the bottom ones. Planted in the ground and covered; maintain humidity, ventilate and, before the formation of the first new shoots, protect from direct sunlight. Rooting usually takes 20-30 days.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea in an area with optimal conditions for it is resistant to diseases.

If the soil is calcareous or oversaturated with humus, the plant may develop chlorosis, in which the leaves, with the exception of the central vein, become yellow-light.

In this case, watering is carried out potassium nitrate solution with a concentration of 4g / l, and after 3 days - ferrous sulfate solution the same concentration.

Downy mildew, in which dark oily, gradually spreading spots are formed on the leaves and stems, it affects the hydrangea at a temperature of 18-20 degrees in combination with high atmospheric humidity.

An effective remedy for this disease is spraying with copper-soap solution: 15 g copper sulfate and 150 g green soap in a bucket of water.

Gray rot, which also develops in summer with high air humidity, requires the removal of affected leaves and shoots and treatment of the bush fungicides.

If the air humidity is low, the plant can settle aphids and spider miteswhich can be removed with soapy water.

However, the most effective in such cases is the use of systemic insecticides.

As a preventive measure, you should get rid of weeds that serve as a haven and breeding ground for these pests.

Panicle hydrangea is one of the most unpretentious and hardy "princesses" in open ground. She withstands not only winter cold, but also significant gas pollution of the atmosphere.

A suitable planting site, easy maintenance and sufficient watering will provide a long, perennial, fragrant flowering of these tree bushes in open ground in the middle lane.

Photo

Photos of hydrangea paniculata, see below:

Useful video

Watch the planting and grooming video:

Hydrangea, planting and care are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to diseases and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, after planting, you need to take care of the shrub correctly in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant a hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the earth thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn is in the month of September. When choosing a place for an ornamental deciduous plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since the bright sun causes slower growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangeas can be grown in open, sunny areas, but abundant watering is required. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and strong winds. It is not recommended to be placed under trees that strongly absorb water.

The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moistened, consisting of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand (2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil has a negative effect on development. The soil should have a Ph level of about 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas outdoors

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangea in open ground in the spring, in the southern regions, including the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a planting hole for a beautiful shrub, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and a depth of 0.4-0.5 m.When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of the hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo

It is necessary to introduce the prepared soil mixture into the hole and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root collar, which should be flush with the soil. A slight deepening is permissible, but not more than 20-30 mm; too deep landing can subsequently lead to decay of the neck.

The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well tamped. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to the depth of the roots of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.

Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds and protects the roots from overheating.Peat chips, wood chips or bark are used as a mulching material, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulch is best laid in late spring, when the ground is already well warmed up but still damp.

watering hydrangea - pictured

So that the shrub grows well and pleases with abundant flowering, the garden hydrangea is fertilized when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - early June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken droppings diluted 1:10 with water. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium nitrate and urea each. Subsequent feeding of hydrangea is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to woody by the winter period.

For strong and flexible shoots, an ornamental shrub is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate of a weak pink color. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which the plant needs.

mulching hydrangea with wood chips - pictured

Panicle hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover are predominantly pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly related to the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and crimson; on acidic soils, the hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline earth, the shrub is watered with solutions of iron salts. To obtain a more intense blue color, rusty metal cans should be buried under the hydrangea.

Pruning hydrangeas - continue to groom

Do I need to prune a hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that pruning of hydrangea large-leaved, serrated, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut off old branches and weak ones, to strong buds.

Pruning hydrangea paniculate and tree-like involves removing old and faded shoots, also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners do not recommend removing a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. The main branches, as a rule, are not touched, only those that are bad and grow inside the bush are cut off.

autumn pruning hydrangea - pictured

You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but it is preferable in the fall, since sap flow slows down, and a haircut will contribute to lush flowering in spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow down growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, the processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In the spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.

Pruning hydrangeas for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them overwinter without surgery, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all difficult, will certainly delight with its lush flowering, if you suddenly decide to grow an unpretentious plant in your garden.

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Large-leaved hydrangea, planting and care

Hydrangea is a lush blooming shrub with unusually delicate and beautiful flowers that reigns in the garden from spring to late autumn. That is why it is very popular among gardeners.In order for the hydrangea to become a real decoration of the site, and to please the eye with its flowering as long as possible, it should be provided with proper care at all stages of development: from planting to shelter for the winter.

Common types of hydrangeas and their characteristics

Hydrangea belongs to the genus of flowering plants (Latin Hydrangea), separated into a separate family of Hydrangea plants (Latin Hydrangeaceae). The genus consists of more than seventy species, most of which are ornamental shrubs and small trees, less often lianas.

Garden hydrangea is a wonderful ornamental shrub

They mainly grow in the countries of East Asia and Europe. Only a few varieties have adapted to the climatic conditions of our country:

• tree-like;
• large-leaved or garden;
• paniculate.

Treelike hydrangea (lat.Hydrangea arborescens)

One of the most popular types among Russian flower growers. This is due to its abundant flowering, relative cold resistance and unpretentiousness. Basically, there are shrubs with a height of 1 to 3 m, having a rounded crown and slightly drooping stems. The flowering period lasts from mid-summer to late October. On annual shoots, white or cream-colored flowers are formed, collected in spherical inflorescences with a diameter of 15-25 cm.

Hydrangea tree varieties Pink Anabel

Looks great both in single and in group plantings: compositions of ornamental shrubs, perennial flowers and trees, hedges. Combines effectively with lilies and daylilies, clematis, roses.

Panicle hydrangea (lat.Hydrangea paniculata)

The panicle hydrangea is quite frost-resistant, planting and caring for which is quite simple. This is a rather large shrub or tree, reaching 3-5 m in height. Shoots have time to turn stiff in one season, so the plant tolerates negative air temperatures up to 30 ° C well and does not need shelter for the winter.

Hydrangea paniculata Limelight

Panicle hydrangea blooms for a long time - from July to the end of September. The inflorescences are quite large - up to 50 cm, shaped like a pyramid. During flowering, the flowers change color - after the blooming of the buds, they are green or white, and by autumn they become purple or red.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Latin Hydrangea macrophylla)

A beautifully flowering ornamental shrub, up to 2 meters high. This species does not tolerate low temperatures, so caring for the garden hydrangea is somewhat difficult. Most gardeners do not risk growing it outdoors. But thanks to the efforts of breeders, it was possible to breed varieties that can withstand frosts up to 25 ° C without shelter for the winter, and even lower temperatures, while under covering material. These include all varieties of the Forever & Ever and Endless Summer series.

Hydrangea large-leaved Papillon

The peculiarity of this species is that the laying of flower buds occurs both on old shoots and on growths of the current year, which allows them to bloom almost continuously. The inflorescences of these varieties are medium in size - 20-25 cm, but the flowers are quite large - up to 3.5 cm in diameter, capable of changing color depending on the level of soil acidity.

Hydrangea planting rules and place

A delicate hydrangea can dilute the palette of flowers blooming in the summer-autumn period and give any garden a touch of aristocracy, planting and caring for which in the open field is easy. Subject to the purchase of high-quality seedlings, the right place and the observance of all stages of planting in 1-2 years, the young plant will delight you with its abundant flowering.

Selection of seedlings

The adaptability of the plant to the climatic conditions of the area, growth, development, splendor and duration of flowering depends on the correct choice of a seedling.

Optimal planting time for hydrangeas

It is believed that the best time to plant shrubs is late May or early September.Saplings bought and planted in spring will have time to take root and get stronger before the onset of cold weather, which means they can easily overwinter. But if you want to decorate your palisade with plants with a certain color of inflorescences, then it is best to buy them in summer or autumn - during abundant flowering.

It is most convenient to buy hydrangea seedlings during flowering

In spring, the seedlings are delivered to store shelves with an open root system, in containers. The first thing to look for when buying is the condition of the roots. Carefully remove the plant from the container along with the soil, and inspect the roots. It is necessary that they be moist, but free from mold and rot. It is equally important that outwardly the seedling has no signs of disease, looks healthy and has several shoots growing symmetrically relative to the trunk.

Recommendations for choosing hydrangea seedlings

When purchasing planting material in summer, in June - July, choose plants with bright green elastic leaves. If they are brown or slightly wilted, then most likely the seedling is infected with bacteriosis. It is not worth buying it, even if the inflorescences have a healthy and fresh look.

Seat selection

The site for planting should be chosen well-lit or slightly darkened. Also, it must be reliably protected from sunlight, wind and drafts. Hydrangea is very moisture-loving, so it is not advisable to plant it next to trees and bushes that require abundant watering.

The culture prefers a light soil, well absorbing and retaining moisture, nutritious with a significant humus content and with a slightly acidic reaction. Loamy, podzolic or sandy soil is perfect.

Change the color of the hydrangea as desired

This plant is able to change the color of flowers depending on the acidity of the soil: if it is increased, the inflorescences become blue, and if, on the contrary, it is low, they become pink. The optimal acidity index is 5-6 pH. It can be increased with peat additives or potassium chloride, and decreased with liming.

Hydrangea panicled planting and care

Regardless of what type of root system - open or closed, hydrangea is purchased, planting and caring for it in spring and autumn is carried out as follows.

Planting panicle hydrangea in open ground

• Dig a hole 50 * 50 cm in size and the same depth. If there are several seedlings, then the distance between the pits is 1-1.5 m.
• Organize drainage from gravel, crushed stone, broken brick.
• Fertile soil is poured on top, consisting of turf and sand, peat and humus, mixed in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 2.
• The bush is planted so that the root collar is at ground level, and gently fall asleep.
• After completing the planting, watering and mulching with a layer of peat, at least 6-8 cm, is carried out.

Features of summer landing

If the seedlings were purchased during flowering, it is not necessary to wait for autumn to plant them in open ground. They will quickly take root and adapt to new conditions even in July. Gently transfer the plant from the pot to the previously prepared planting hole. After that, be sure to create a shade for the bush so that the young leaves do not suffer from the scorching summer sun, and water abundantly.

Care and cultivation after planting

Caring for hydrangea after planting consists in organizing regular watering, timely fertilization, mulching the soil. Pruning and preparation for winter are also of great importance, since it depends on them how abundantly and for how long the bush will bloom.

Hydrangea, care after planting

Watering

Hydrangea loves water very much, so the soil around the shrub should never dry out. The plant should be watered weekly; during the dry season, 25-30 liters of water per 1 sq. m. area. After watering, the soil is loosened, weeds are removed and periodically mulched with dry leaves or sawdust, they retain moisture well.It is also recommended to water the bush several times a season with a solution of 1% potassium permanganate or 2% iodine to increase the elasticity and reduce the fragility of the shoots.

Top dressing

Young plants are fed the next year after planting.

Preparation of fertilizers for summer hydrangea feeding

• In the spring, during the period of strengthening and development of the seedling, 1 sq. m. planting make a mixture of fertilizers, consisting of urea (20-25 g), superphosphate (30-40 g) and potassium sulfate (30-35 g).
• During the budding period, one more top dressing is carried out by adding superphosphate (60-80 g) and potassium sulfate (40-45 g);
• The next two, supporting top dressing, are carried out in the summer: a month after the beginning of flowering, after another two weeks. As a fertilizer, organic matter is used - a solution of chicken manure or cow dung (1 kg per 10 liters of water).

Pruning

To get a large and lush blooming bush, it is imperative to prune. But since the large-leaved hydrangea lays flower buds on two-year-old shoots, and paniculate and tree-like on annual ones, they should be cut in a slightly different way.

Removing last year's hydrangea inflorescences

Garden hydrangeas, planting and caring for which are carried out in the same way as for other species, are recommended to be pruned in the spring. In this period:

• healthy inflorescences shorten the first strong buds without signs of damage and disease;
• also cut off the tops frostbitten during the winter;
• completely remove weak and poorly positioned, protruding and loose branches.

Paniculate and tree-like varieties are pruned according to the classic scheme: last year's shoots are removed completely, leaving one pair of buds. In late autumn, faded inflorescences and non-lignified parts of the shoots are cut off from shrubs, which definitely do not overwinter.

Pruning hydrangeas before winter shelter

Hydrangea care and shelter for the winter

It is recommended to cover only the large-leaved species, as it has a reduced cold hardiness. Hydrangea is tree-like, planting and caring for which is quite simple, as well as paniculate - no shelter is required. They can only be slightly huddled with garden soil.

First, be sure to remove all thin and intersecting shoots, collect not fallen leaves. Next, the bush is divided into parts, tied, bent to the ground and fixed. Covering material (lutrasil, agrospan) is thrown over and a thick layer of dry leaves is laid.

Hydrangea - planting and care in Siberia and the Urals

The climatic conditions of Siberia and the Urals, where winter temperatures often drop below 35-40 ° C, are not suitable for all varieties of hydrangeas. In these regions, only paniculate and tree-like bushes are widespread. But they also require careful handling and careful observance of all rules for planting and growing.

Hayes Starburst hydrangea tree planting and care in Siberia and the Urals

In order for hydrangea to take root and bloom profusely in Siberia, planting and caring for it must be well organized.

• You should buy seedlings only zoned, grown in specialized nurseries. A prerequisite is that the roots of the plant are not overdried, otherwise this will lead to its death after transplanting into the ground.
• The area of ​​the garden chosen for planting must be well protected from the winds. For this purpose, the walls of buildings, a fence or a hedge can serve.
• Planting seedlings should be done only in late spring, when the threat of frost has passed.
• Rooted plants need to be watered abundantly, especially in summer, which is often dry in these regions. With insufficient moisture, hydrangea in the Urals, the cultivation of which will require a lot of effort, can freeze out in winter.
• Pruning in early spring. In low-growing varieties of paniculate hydrangea, the height of the shoots after shortening should be about 10 cm, and in tall and tree-like varieties - 20-30 cm.
• After the onset of frost, the plants should be carefully covered: first, cover the root part with dry leaves, and then cover the bushes with agrofibre.

Outcome

Due to its magnificent appearance, unusually bright and lush flowering, hydrangea is able to decorate your favorite garden, even if the site is located in the climatic conditions of Siberia and the Urals. The main thing is to properly organize planting and care throughout the vegetative period.