Garlic before winter planting and care in the open field

Garlic is a close relative of onions. Like any vegetable crop, it has its own characteristics of planting, care, harvesting and storage. Planting garlic, growing it is no big deal. We'll figure out.

Distinguish between shooting and non-shooting, winter and spring varieties - it depends on the biological characteristics of the plant. Non-firing garlic reproduces only by chives, and archerous garlic, plus air bulbs.

Shooting varieties are winter varieties. They give a good harvest when planted before winter. Among the non-shooting varieties there are winter and spring varieties. Planting spring garlic in the fall leads to poor rooting of cloves, thinning of crops, and a lack of harvest. However, there are varieties that grow well in autumn and spring planting.

The main thing when growing winter garlic is to create conditions for a good overwintering. This is ensured by the correct choice of the planting site, sowing time, seeding depth. The culture should be placed on fertile land with a flat surface, clean of weeds, not flooded by autumn or melt water. The best predecessors are crops that vacate the field early, under which organic fertilizers are applied: cucumbers, zucchini, early cabbage, lettuce, legumes. Garlic is a good precursor for all crops except onions, since they are affected by the same pests and diseases.

Garden bed preparation

The soil on the bed is treated in advance so that it settles somewhat. Directly for plowing or digging, humus (40-60 t / ha), mineral fertilizers can be applied. The rate of mineral fertilizers per 1 hundred square meters: 30-40 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate, 15-20 g of potassium chloride. Saltpeter is not brought in in the fall, only in the spring.

↑ to contents ↑ Preparation of planting material

For planting winter or spring garlic, three types of planting material are used:

• teeth,
• air bulbs (bulbs);
• sevok (one-toothed bulbs grown from air bulbs).

Only garlic heads with healthy teeth are selected. All diseased, shriveled or sprouted bulbs are discarded. Large or medium-sized teeth are the most suitable material for planting.

The teeth prepared for planting are etched, disinfected with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or a 3% suspension of TMTD for 10-15 minutes. If disinfection is not carried out, then it is useful to soak them for 12-24 hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Such preparation helps to improve the health of the planting material, protects it from diseases.

↑ to content ↑ Planting garlic before winter - terms

In order for the garlic to take root, but not sprout, it must be planted before winter two to three weeks before the onset of a stable cold snap. The optimal time for planting winter varieties of garlic before winter is the third decade of October in the Kuban. With an earlier planting, for example, in September, the sprouted teeth leave before winter with 2-3 true leaves. So that the leaves do not suffer from frost or cold winds, hilling of plants is carried out, and in early spring, cross harrowing in order to release the neck of the plants.

At a later planting, the cloves do not have time to take root - there is a large sparseness of crops from the influence of cold winds and frosts.

Check the timing of planting garlic with the lunar sowing calendar for 2017.

Air bulbs are sown in autumn or early spring. From them, the so-called sevok grows - these are not cloves, but roundish small onions. If you plant air bulbs in the fall, then most of them will give arrows in the summer, and during spring planting, there is no shooting, but round one-tooth bulbs (apples) are formed. They are planted in the fall, as they are poorly preserved until spring.

Spring varieties are planted in early spring, as soon as there is an opportunity to go out into the field, since they are very demanding on soil moisture, low temperature at the beginning of growth. With a delay in planting, growth and development of plants are delayed, the yield decreases, and the marketable quality of products deteriorates.

If the planting material is stored at a temperature of 0 ° to + 5 ° C, it is planted in early spring, then under this condition, mostly single-tooth bulbs are formed.

↑ to content ↑ Rate and scheme of planting garlic

Garlic is usually planted in rows, the distance between which is 20-30 cm. The teeth are placed at a distance of 6-8 cm, but this distance depends on their size: for large - the distance is greater, for small ones - they are planted closer to each other. One to two days before planting, the heads should be disassembled into teeth. If this is done, for example, a week before sowing or even earlier, then they will lose some percentage of germination.

How many cloves will be needed to plant, for example, 1 sq. meter of garden, it's hard to say. The planting rate depends on the size of the teeth you are planting. Usually, agronomists call the figure 130-380 cloves per 1 m2. They get the first figure based on the average weight of one tooth 3 g, and the second - if it weighs 7 g.

Larger heads grow from larger teeth. It is not worth planting teeth weighing less than 3 g, as small heads will grow from them.

How deep should you plant? It depends, firstly, on the size of the teeth, and secondly, on the timing of planting.

In autumn, before winter, winter varieties are planted. Large teeth are planted no deeper than 5-7 cm.Smaller teeth - no deeper than 4-5 cm.But, when planting in spring or in autumn, you need to make sure that the layer of earth on top is at least 3-4 cm.You can cover the beds with a small one a layer (5-7 cm) of mulch - straw or dry grass.

Spring varieties are planted in the spring. Planting depth of spring garlic is 4-5 cm. Also, make sure that the layer of earth above the cloves is at least 3-4 cm. This will provide optimal conditions for good rooting, for the formation of heads of the correct shape.

↑ to the content ↑ Care of crops, feeding

One of the secrets of growing garlic is feeding.

In early spring, after the snow melts, as soon as the first warm days come, it would be nice to feed the crops with nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea (1 tablespoon / 10 l of water). For 1 m2, approximately 5 liters of mortar should be consumed.

In April, when the seedlings grow up, feeding is carried out twice, for example, this is the middle and end of April. The first feeding should contain more nitrogen. Its composition can be as follows: half a liter of chicken manure + 1 tbsp. spoon nitroammophoska in a bucket (10 liters) of water. The second feeding should contain more phosphorus and potassium. The composition is as follows: 1 tbsp. spoon of double superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate + 1 teaspoon of urea in a bucket (10 L) of water. We also consume about 5 liters of mortar per 1 m2.

Be sure to loosen the soil between the rows after feeding the next day, loosen it again after a week and a half, if the soil is dry, water it. Garlic loves loose soil without weeds - oxygen must be supplied to the roots and bulbs of the plant, so loosen the soil between the rows after each watering or after rain. By the way, if there is no rain, then watering should be carried out at least weekly. Water abundantly - 12-15 liters per m2.

Mulching the row spacings can facilitate the work of the gardener. Mulch will retain moisture, and the soil under the mulch always remains loose.

In order for you to grow large heads, the arrows must be broken out in time. Try to break or cut them, and do not pull up - this way you can accidentally pull out the entire bulb or damage its root system. Break the arrows when they have reached a length of 12-15 cm, the breakout point should be as close to the rosette of leaves as possible. If you break it in a shorter length, then it will continue to grow - you will not get a large head.

Breaking out arrows is a special agricultural technique that allows not only to increase the size of the head, but also accelerates their maturation.

By the way, do not throw out the broken arrows - they can be used when preserving blanks, as a seasoning for food.

For example, add finely chopped garlic arrows to boiled potatoes, after you've drained the water and slightly dried them. Add butter or sour cream, stir and serve. Once upon a time, I read this recipe - it was called "Phytoncid potato". Since then, it has been one of our family's favorite dishes.

Finely chopped arrows can be added to boiled hot pasta or noodles - this is also tasty, healthy, especially in spring, when vitamins are so lacking.

↑ back to content ↑ Garlic harvesting

Usually at the end of July, the leaves of garlic begin to turn yellow. This suggests that the time has come for cleaning. Gardeners have an unwritten rule: it is better to harvest sooner rather than later. Even a 5 day delay matters. With earlier harvesting, it is left outdoors under a canopy to ripen. Do not pick off the leaves yet. At the same time, nutrients from the leaves enter the bulbs, which increase their mass. At the same time, the heads are dense, top covered with dry integumentary scales, of a good attractive appearance. And if you are literally 3-5 days late with the cleaning, then the scales covering the heads burst, the teeth crumble, the head itself becomes loose. This garlic will not last long.

But I would like to say separately about the timing of cleaning. There are many varieties that have different ripening periods, which means that they do not need to be removed all at once, but in turn. How many I have not talked with familiar gardeners, almost no one knows what variety they are growing. By the way, me too. But the differences in the variety can be seen by the color of the outer shell of the head, by the number of cloves in the bulb. I try to sort the heads before planting in order to at least approximately plant the varieties separately.

How do you know when it's time to remove garlic from the beds?

Very simple.I always leave a few arrows, not all of them cut off when they start to grow. At first, during the growth, the arrows bizarrely bend, there are curly ones. But as soon as I noticed that the arrow is straightened, it stands vertically upward - this is the first sign that it is time to dig out the garlic.

There is one more sign - flower heads, which have already formed bulbs, have burst - while removing.

Thus, knowing these signs of ripening, wherever you live, you will never be late to harvest the garlic on time. Although the timing of cleaning will be different for everyone.

↑ to content ↑ Replenishing and storage of air bulbs (bulbs)

So that next year you have your own garlic for planting, leave some part of the plants with arrows in the garden, do not break them. These plants with the arrows left should be left in the garden for another one to two weeks after the main harvest. Then the arrows with air bulbs are cut off. You can tie them in small bunches, hang them under a canopy (not in the open sun) to dry. This is how the arrows of garlic with air bulbs are stored for 20-30 days. During this time, there is an outflow of nutrients from the arrows into the bulbs, they are covered with dense scales, they become light straw or purple in color (the color depends on the variety). The bulbs are greatly enlarged, the shell bursts. If you are going to plant them in the fall, before winter, then clean, sort them by size. And if the bulbs are intended for spring-summer planting, then it is best to continue to store them in bunches until spring, since when cleaning, sorting in the fall, the bulbs are injured, they can dry out, and lose germination. Store them in a cool, dark place.

↑ back to contents ↑ Garlic storage

For storage, ripe, mature, well-dried heads with whole intact scales are selected. The best temperature for storing at home is + 18 ° C. It is better to store garlic in mesh bags, pigtails or cardboard boxes.

↑ back to contents ↑ How can you get one clove garlic?

To obtain one-toothed bulbs, air bulbs can be planted in autumn or spring. It should be remembered that during autumn sowing, some of the bulbs freeze and rot. Therefore, sparse shoots are obtained. With early spring sowing, seedlings appear on the 10-20th day, as a rule, amicable. Sowing pattern: distance between rows 20 cm, continuous planting of bulbs along the row. Care consists in watering and the following shallow loosening, top dressing with complex fertilizers. One-toothed bulbs are harvested as soon as the leaves begin to lodge. After ripening (10-12 days), drying, cut off the roots, dried leaves. The one-tooth is stored at a temperature of 16-18 ° C, a relative humidity of 70-75%.

One last thing ... Avoid planting garlic from grocery stores or supermarkets, as growing garlic runs the risk of introducing serious viral diseases to your site.

Planting garlic outdoors

Garlic is a hot spice that is actively used in cooking and traditional medicine.

Growing and caring for garlic in the open field on their own gives gardeners the opportunity to get the maximum benefit from it without harm to health, which the purchased one can bring.

Meanwhile, it is quite easy to grow a culture at home if you know and follow the basic rules of planting and caring for a plant.

Before starting the growing procedure, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the basic rules and recommendations:

1. Garlic beds are best chosen in places well-lit by the sun.
2. Avoid planting a crop in a low-lying area. In such conditions, the accumulation of liquid is possible, which will have a detrimental effect on the condition of the plants.
3. It is important to add natural or synthetic fertilizer to the soil before planting.
4. It is recommended to mulch over the winter bed and cover it with brushwood to delay the snow masses.
5. The sowing depth directly depends on the size of the seed.The largest varieties should be deepened by eight to nine centimeters, the smaller ones by six to seven.
6. Only large seeds should be chosen for planting. Separate them from each other carefully. You do not need to peel the cloves.
7. Do not sow into freshly dug soil, otherwise the tines will be deeper than necessary. Prepare the soil no earlier than a week in advance.
8. The sowing site should be changed regularly (at least once every two years). You can use the same ridge only with an interval of four years.

The correct approach to growing crops will allow you to grow a high-quality and rich harvest, and also significantly reduce the likelihood of disease and plant death during the nursing period.

When to plant garlic outdoors?

There are two options for planting garlic in open ground: autumn (for winter) and spring (for spring).

It is recommended to plant a crop in autumn from the second half of September to mid-October. You can also calculate the timing of the expected frost period, depending on the region. The most suitable time for sowing is 35-45 days before the start.

Spring garlic should be planted when the soil temperature warms up to 5-10 degrees Celsius. As a rule, this time falls on the end of March or the beginning of April.

All sowing dates in spring are relative. In this case, a lot depends on the region. So, in the warmest it is best to plant the crop earlier, in the colder ones - later. The final landing date is the end of April.

The best precursor to garlic is considered to be potatoes. You can also sow a crop in those places where zucchini, cucumbers and peas grew.

The worst predecessor is onion of all varieties and varieties. If you grow garlic the next year after the onion is harvested, you can expect a small and poor quality harvest.

The same goes for tomatoes and carrots.

The culture can also coexist with raspberry bushes, roses, strawberries, currants. In this case, the plant will help repel pests.

Soil preparation

The soil for sowing in open ground should be sufficiently fertile and drained, moisture-consuming. Loam is perfect. It is important that the soil is not dry. The ridge should be prepared for spring sowing in the fall.

To do this, you need to dig up the soil and apply fertilizer to it. For each square meter, you will need twenty grams of potassium salt and superphosphate, as well as a bucket of humus. This procedure can be performed in the spring, no later than two weeks before sowing.

The distance between the finished rows should be d2 decimeters, between other ridges - at least 1.

It is best to plant the teeth in the grooves, but at the same time they should not be pressed into the ground.

Too dense soil mixture will contribute to the freezing of the plant from the roots.

Important: You can neutralize the increased acidity of the soil with dolomite flour, chalk or hydrated lime.

Preparation of planting material

First of all, all potential seed must be sorted out and sorted. Choose for growing only whole, healthy, large seeds. It is they who should be further subjected to pre-planting processing.

Important: the presence of at least one tooth damaged by the disease in the head automatically rejects the entire bulb.

The selected seed must be treated with the antifungal agent Fitosporin. To do this, it is enough to soak the cloves in the drug solution for five minutes. In the absence of this remedy, you can use a pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% iodine solution.

Before direct planting, it is useful to carry out a second processing of the material. To do this, pour half a kilogram of wood ash with a liter of water and boil the composition for half an hour. Each clove will need to be dipped in the cooled solution, and then dried thoroughly.

Sowing is also possible with the so-called bulbs - the organs of vegetative propagation of garlic.

These are small bulbs that form in the seed case on the arrow of the plant itself during ripening.

The system of material selection, planting and cultivation practically does not differ from the system of using cloves.

Landing in open ground

Having prepared the soil and planting material, you can proceed to planting directly.

The procedure will take several steps:

1. Loosen the prepared soil with a spatula, hoe or other most convenient tool.
2. Make grooves with a depth corresponding to the dimensions of the prepared teeth from five to 10 cm. The distance between them should be twenty to thirty centimeters.
3. Place the garlic sprouts down into the grooves, about five centimeters apart. The teeth should be deepened by about half.
4. Fill the grooves with soil, trying not to unnecessarily tamp the ridge. Otherwise, the garlic may not sprout.
5. Smooth the surface of the ridges with a rake, avoiding deep penetration of the tool into the soil.

The soil for sowing in open ground should be moist, but not wet. Therefore, it is recommended to shed it in advance.

Outdoor garlic care

Basic crop care includes four aspects: timely watering, weeding, fertilizing and loosening the soil.

Watering

It is recommended to bring water into open ground regularly, but infrequently (once every one to two weeks).

It is enough to use 10 liters of water per square meter. During the rainy season, the number of waterings should be reduced to a minimum.

At the same time, it is important to periodically loosen the soil so that it absorbs moisture better.

As the ridges mature, they are watered with less and less moisture. Watering is completely stopped 2 weeks before harvesting.

1 time in 10 days, it is necessary to add potash and phosphorus additional fertilizing to the soil. It is important to strictly follow the instructions for use indicated on the package.

In addition, at the very beginning of the growing season and after the seed box is formed, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with natural fertilizers, which you will need to make yourself.

A kilogram of mullein or chicken droppings requires about 10 liters of water. It is important to keep such a solution for 3-5 days for fermentation. After that, each liter should be diluted with a bucket of water and irrigated.

With high-quality processing of planting material, the risk of disease and fungus is reduced.

Additionally, it is useful to disinfect the soil by spilling it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate immediately before planting. It is also recommended to carry out treatment with insecticides and fungicides in the spring.

It is important to weed as needed. Removing weeds once a week is usually sufficient.

Important: as soon as the formed seed pod bursts, it must be removed from the plant by breaking or cutting the arrow.

Harvest

Harvesting garlic should be carried out at a time when the greens turn yellow by about 2/3. As a rule, it takes about 100 days for a crop to mature, and the end of the period falls in mid-September. The ripeness of the crop is indicated by a loose connection of teeth in the head and dry husk.

In order to carry out cleaning, it is necessary to dig up the onion and pull it out by the tops. In this state, the plants should be laid out to dry.

After that, it is important to remove the soil, and move the heads for storage in a cool place. You can trim the roots and tops as early as a week after harvesting.

Conclusion

Growing garlic in the country or in a garden plot in the open field is a useful and interesting activity.

If you use all the rules of sowing and care, you can get a tasty and healthy crop that can be stored for a long time.

Such garlic can be used both in cooking and traditional medicine without fear for the health and quality of the finished product.

Growing garlic outdoors. Garlic: planting, leaving

Garlic is one of the oldest vegetable crops, home to the foothill Central Asian regions. It is a seasoning, a burning spice, and a great medicine. Therefore, no vegetable garden is complete without planting this representative of the Bulbous family.

Growing garlic outdoors is usually not a big problem for gardeners. It is believed that this is not difficult. Still, it's not easy to grow a good harvest.

Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology, technology and planting care is necessary for the successful growth of this wonderful vegetable crop.

Garlic: the history of the plant

It is impossible to establish exactly from what time garlic has been present in people's lives. Already in ancient times, it was grown in India and used as a medicine.

Historians claim that they began to use it for food about 5 thousand years ago: the found manuscripts speak of the cultivation of garlic in Ancient Rome and Greece, Assyria and the Kingdom of Judah, Egypt and Arab countries.

He was found in the tombs of the pharaohs. The Bible and the Koran mention it, which testifies to the high recognition of this magnificent bulb as a spice and medicinal plant for ancient civilizations.

And today it is difficult to do without this culture, so we will deal with the intricacies of growing such a wonderful plant as garlic.

The site for planting is of decisive importance. It should be flat, not flooded by spring floods and located on the sunny side.

It is imperative to observe the order of crop rotation: garlic should be grown in the same place for no more than 2 years.

The ideal plant predecessors are squash, peas, potatoes, cucumbers.

The soil should be moderately fertile, well-drained. The general rule for planting is to observe the intervals: 8-10 cm between the teeth and 18-20 cm between the rows.

Access to air and light is a prerequisite for good crop growth. In addition, such distances are optimal for subsequent fertilization and weeding.

An indispensable rule of quality selection of garlic cloves for planting is the choice of the right variety. There are two types of bulbs - winter and spring. You can plant it in the spring - then you need spring garlic. Planting before winter, of course, involves winter varieties.

Bulbs should be selected large, without damage. Divide them into cloves should be immediately before planting. A feature of winter garlic is that it needs long-term stratification for successful growth, i.e. staying in cold conditions for several months.

That is why it is planted before winter. For high-quality vernalization of garlic at the beginning of development, low temperatures are also required, and this regulates the timing of sowing spring garlic.

It is planted in early spring, as soon as the snow has melted, so that the vernalization time (up to 40 days) passes at an air temperature of + 5–10 ° C.

Planting garlic before winter

Among Russian gardeners, the main representative of bulbous plants planted before winter is winter garlic.

Growing it is a responsible business: it is necessary to work in the fall, observing the conditions of planting, taking into account the time and place, tillage and application of the necessary fertilizers, and in addition, the choice of a suitable variety.

The garden for planting garlic should be started a month before planting. The earth must be well dug up, weeds and roots must be removed.

Then the soil must be carefully leveled and shed with peat-humic fertilizer for nutrition and disinfection. After 10 days, humus or well-aged manure infusion is applied at the rate of 10 liters of fertilizer per 2 sq. m.

The earth must be loosened, shed and grooved, then ash and sand must be added to them to avoid the formation of rot.

Terms and technology of planting winter garlic

A favorable time for planting in non-black earth regions of Russia is the third decade of September.

You cannot plant the garlic earlier - the cloves will have time to release the greens and freeze, and the roots will weaken. If planted later, the garlic will not have time to take root.

Garlic is planted, deepening it by 10 cm, in prepared grooves, well spilled with water in advance.

Important! Growing garlic outdoors suggests some peculiarities.

When planting, it is impossible to press the cloves with force (summer residents often sin with this) - pushing off from the compacted soil, the sprouting roots will begin to push the bulb upward, which will lead to freezing.

The final stage of planting is leveling the soil, mulching with peat, sawdust and warming from above with spruce branches. In dry autumn, garlic should be watered once a week. A large harvest of garlic can be expected during a good winter with snowfalls.

Therefore, if the winter is with little snow, and the planting areas for garlic are small, snow should be thrown onto the beds. Subject to these simple rules, the future harvest of garlic will be reliably protected from adverse influences.

Spring garlic: cultivation and features

To activate the growth processes, the separated cloves are treated as follows: for 10-12 hours they are soaked in a solution of a growth stimulator with the addition of several grains of manganese for the prevention of diseases.

So, having chosen the variety of spring garlic you like, having processed it accordingly, they proceed to spring planting.

Note that the early planting of garlic is also explained by the temporary supply for the complete ripening of the bulbs, which is a guarantee of their high quality and excellent keeping quality.

There is an opinion that spring garlic is more useful than winter garlic and does not lose its medicinal properties and presentation during storage.

Growing garlic outdoors, especially from the early spring days, requires maintaining the same intervals as when planting before winter, and then carefully monitoring the germination and condition of the shoots.

Garlic is extremely sensitive to soil acidity, so fresh manure cannot be applied. Only humus should be used as top dressing. When planting garlic in spring, it is useful to add urea to the water for irrigation at the rate of 30 grams. 10 liters of water.

This amount of solution is enough for 2 square meters. m. In addition to nitrogen fertilizers, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are also needed. The first shoots appear in 12-18 days. During the formation of leaves, fertilizing with wood ash is necessary.

In addition, it is an effective pest repellent.

The agrotechnology of growing garlic is simple. The main condition for the good development of bulbs is timely feeding. But it is equally important to ensure planting with regular watering.

Lack of water has a detrimental effect on the development of the bulb, therefore, the main issue is to ensure optimal plant moisture. It is important not to overdo it - excess water is harmful. Watering in the amount of 10 liters per m² is considered the norm.

By the time the garlic ripens, watering is gradually reduced; in the last 2-3 weeks before harvesting, the need for water disappears. Regular weeding and loosening of row spacings are equally important.

Garlic is harvested at the end of the plant's life cycle - between the yellowing of the leaves and their drying.

Growing garlic from bulbs

The number of cloves in the bulb is limited, therefore the most promising is the propagation of the culture with bulbs or air bulbs.

Their use increases the reproduction rate of garlic several times. In the northern and temperate latitudes of Russia and Siberia, air bulbs are planted in the spring, and it is very important to preserve them in the winter.

They are well stored in inflorescences at a temperature of 15-20 ° C.Two months before planting, in early March, they are moved to a cooler place.

Growing garlic from bulbs predetermines several conditions: the bulbs must ripen and be well preserved.

They are planted in five lines with ribbons, deepening the bulbs by 3 cm, and then mulching the bed with humus. Care for the seedlings is the same as for spring garlic, that is, they are weeded, watered and fed with any organic matter in a timely manner.

In the fall, one-toothed beetles ripen, which are not removed, but left to winter, not forgetting to cover the crops and organize snow retention. In the spring they germinate and harvest in July-August.

Growing garlic from bulbs takes place in a two-year cycle, resulting in an excellent crop.

Rare culture - rockambol

The popular in Europe and Asia culture of rockambol, or hairstyle, is still rarely found in Russia.

But gardeners who have already become acquainted with this culture appreciated its excellent, pleasant taste.

By its biological characteristics, this plant is suitable for growing in all Russian regions.

Rocambol is a representative of the lily family, but outwardly resembles large garlic.

Rocambol, whose cultivation practically does not differ from the usual garlic, also loves fertile neutral soils, responsive to organic fertilizing and weeding. With proper care, the bulbs of this culture reach 250-300 grams.

Diseases and pests

Many pests parasitize plants, causing irreparable harm to garlic. The most common of these are the stem nematode and the garlic mite.

They are able to harm not only during the development of culture, but also during storage. In addition to phytophagous insects, there are also diseases of garlic, the most dangerous of which are peronosporosis, cervical rot, and fusarium.

The main measures to combat diseases and pests are preventive measures: compliance with crop rotation, timely destruction of affected plants and infected bulbs, preparation of planting material.

Careful use of fungicides is also possible. The industrial cultivation of garlic implies a more intensive use of such preparations.

Nevertheless, it is the modest summer cottages that give a healthier harvest, since any gardener is very picky about the use of chemicals, preferring to do with more gentle methods.

Growing garlic in the open field involves simple, but demanding operations, the implementation of which guarantees a good harvest of a wonderful crop.

Growing garlic outdoors or how to get a good harvest from every garden

Garlic is also mentioned in inscriptions left on the surface of the ancient Egyptian pyramids. He managed to find an earthen onion inside the tomb of Tutankhamun himself.

And the world famous Pythagoras called everyone's favorite garlic the king of spices. And it was not in vain that he received such a sonorous name. Although known to the whole world for about 3 thousand.

years, but continues to be popular among the population of countries such as Italy, Korea, India, China.

The gardeners of our country have been successfully cultivating garlic for many years.

Many, especially beginners, are interested in proper planting and care in the open field, so later we will talk about the key points in more detail.

Now you will find out when it is better to plant a crop, how to prepare the beds, how to self-plant.

Disembarkation dates

Nowadays, breeders have managed to breed many excellent varieties of garlic. Among them, you can choose three for growing on your own personal plot.

These are non-shooting winter crops, non-shooting winter crops and non-shooting spring varieties known to experienced gardeners. As for their characteristic features, winter crops ripen early, have large heads and teeth, and have good yields.

But they are not able to be stored for too long. Used for the preparation of various dishes and preservation.

Winter varieties include such as Yubileiny Gribovsky, Komsomolets, Boguslavsky, Gulliver, Petrovsky and others.

Spring varieties require special storage conditions and can be stored for a long time.

Popular types for planting in open ground are Yelenovsky, Ershovsky, Degtyarsky, Gafuriysky, Ukrainian white.

Shooting varieties of winter garlic, which tend to form a bulb with 2 - 6 large teeth, and non-shooting, which form a multi-pronged bulb, are recommended to be planted on the site 35 - 45 days before frost.

This time falls in the second half of September - early October. Before planting, large and medium bulbs are selected, divided into prongs, weighing no more than 6 grams. Bulbs that have 2 to 3 prongs are not used.

It is advised to renew the planting material every 3 to 4 years.

The recommended timing for planting spring garlic is early spring. You can plan planting for the first days of sowing, but no later than the first ten days of April.

Spring bulbs are often multi-toothed bulbs. It is better not to choose teeth that are medium in size for planting.

Garden bed preparation

It is important to properly prepare the land for cultivation. It is recommended to choose an area with fertile soil that has a neutral acidity level. Garlic will grow well in loamy soil.

It shouldn't be too dry. You can not plant the plant in the lowlands. Since there often accumulates rain and water remaining after the melting of snow. The site should be dug up in the fall.

It is required to do this to a sufficient depth. Do not forget to add about 30 grams of superphosphate, 20 grams of potassium salt and 1 bucket of humus per square meter of area.

With the arrival of spring, you only need to level the site using a rake for this purpose.

All cabbage pitchforks, as well as pumpkin, zucchini, beans, peas, green manure are considered excellent precursors for garlic. It is not recommended to plan the planting after carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and garlic.

The neighborhood with garlic is useful for crops such as black currants, potatoes, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, wild strawberries. Garlic will definitely be a reliable protection for them from pest attacks.

How to plant

It is permissible to plant garlic in the presence of a soil temperature of about 12 - 15 degrees Celsius. Then the culture will be able to form a strong root system. This will increase the degree of winter hardiness of the plant.

Before planting, the site must be leveled. The spacing in the row spacings is normally from 20 to 25 cm. The spacing between the teeth is no more than 12 cm. It is permissible to plant them in furrows, but without pressing them into the soil. Planting depth is somewhere around 8 - 9 cm.

To prevent the teeth from freezing, it is advised to use planting material 6 - 7 cm in size. The bed must be mulched. For this, high-quality humus, peat or sawdust are used. The brushwood spread over the site will be able to retain snow in the beds.

Remember to remove the top layer when the spring thaw begins.

Outdoor care

To get a good harvest, it is necessary to regularly water the plantings, carry out weeding and loosening, and make certain top dressing.

You should also remove the arrows that appear, which take away strength and useful elements from garlic, directing them to the formation of planting material.

You also need to know how to help the culture in the event that it is attacked by diseases and pests. Next, we will tell you more about proper watering and fertilization.

Watering

Watering the crop is required as the soil dries up. If the weather is rather dry, it is necessary to carry out abundant watering. Its frequency is usually 10 to 12 liters per square meter.

If it rains constantly, natural rainfall should be enough for the plants.Then it is easier for the gardener, because there is no need for watering at all. Watering must be stopped in August.

At this time, the bulbs already have time to gain sufficient weight and volume. That is, they are fully formed.

Fertilizers and feeding

Garlic gratefully responds to fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. Top dressing is required in early spring. You will need high-quality potash and phosphate fertilizers. To get a good harvest, you need to fertilize three times.

For the first time, superphosphate is used in an amount of up to 100 grams, ammonium nitrate - about 60 grams and the same amount of potassium sulfate per square meter. The second feeding is carried out 1 month after the first. The same fertilizers are used and in the same amount as for the first one.

When the heads are about the size of a walnut, you can fertilize the plants a third time. When feeding in the spring, remember that nitrogen-containing fertilizers are needed only at the beginning of the growth of garlic.

Later, it is permissible to use only preparations containing sufficient quantities of elements such as phosphorus and potassium. Their deficiency can provoke yellowing of the surface of the foliage of the culture. You can feed your favorite culture in the summer.

To do this, in June, a solution of 10 liters of water is added to the soil with the addition of 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, which is watered over the beds.

Diseases and pests of garlic

Of the characteristic diseases for the plant, sulfur, cervical and white varieties of rot are dangerous, as well as fusarium, helminthosporiosis, jaundice, smut, peronosporosis (aka downy mildew), mosaic, tracheomecosis, and rust. Garlic pests are tobacco thrips, stem nematode, onion lurker, cabbage caterpillars, winter caterpillars, garden and gamma scoops, onion and sprout flies, onion moth, long-leg, and bear.

Prevention of the appearance of troubles is the observance of crop rotation and the rules of agricultural technology.

Planting the culture in the old place can be carried out after 4 - 5 years, the crop storage should be treated with a solution of 400 grams of bleach, dissolved in 10 liters of water, a few months before laying the garlic.

The pre-sowing treatment of the bulbs and tines also plays an important role. The teeth are advised to warm up at a temperature of about 40 - 42 degrees Celsius for 10 hours.

For the treatment of diseases, it is customary to use modern fungicidal agents. For example, having identified foci of rust damage to the culture, the gardener can purchase the drug "Hom" based on copper oxychloride.

With which the plant should be processed. In the early stages of defeat, such fungicides as "Kuproksat", "Gamair", "Champion" are effective.

The drugs "Tiram", "Polycarbocin", "Fentiuram", "Arcerida" are effective against peronosporosis. The modern drug "Fitosporin" successfully fights against all fungal diseases.

With its solution, not only the soil should be treated, but also the seeds and storage of the crop.

"When and how to plant garlic outdoors"

In this video, you will learn about when and how to plant garlic outdoors in autumn.

Planting garlic in the open ground in spring - rules that should not be neglected

The upcoming planting of garlic in the open ground in spring is the most important event for every vegetable grower.

This bulbous plant is of great value in cooking, folk medicine, it is used in many dishes and for homemade preparations.

With the right approach, the harvest of this crop is able to bring the owner of the site a regular income.

Planting garlic in spring

On the farm, winter garlic is more often used for processing, selling on the market and preserving; it is distinguished by large cloves and better yields.

If the question arises about long-term storage, then varieties for spring sowing have an advantage. Winter bulbs are normally stored until early January, after which their quality deteriorates, and spring bulbs do not deteriorate until mid-spring.

If there is a spring planting of garlic in the open field, then it is better to purchase the following varieties:

• Gulliver;
• Abrek;
• Sochi 56;
• Aleisky;
• Yelenovsky;
• Victorio;
• Permyak.

The difference between spring and winter garlic:

1. Predominantly spring garlic does not form arrows.
2. Spring bulbs do not hibernate in the open field; they begin to plant it in the spring.
3. In a bulb of spring garlic, up to 30 cloves can be formed, winter garlic has no more than 10 cloves.
4. The cloves of this garlic become smaller towards the center of the head and are arranged in a spiral.
5. Bulbs in winter species grow larger when planted outdoors.
6. Planting garlic in the open ground in spring is carried out with the cloves of the harvest of last year, the propagation of winter garlic can be done with air bulbs.

Planting garlic in the open ground in spring - timing

This culture has little time for the growing season, therefore, in the open field, the timing of planting garlic in spring begins in the southern regions already at the end of March when the soil is heated to a temperature of 5-6 ° C.

For the Moscow region and more northern regions with a cool climate, the work time is shifted, depending on weather conditions, to the third decade of April or even to the first days of May. Try not to delay the planting time.

Delay in timing can lead to a drop in yields by 50% or more in dry years.

Preparing garlic for planting in spring

Bulbous plants in the open field suffer from many diseases, so you need to study well the problem of how to prepare garlic for planting in spring.

To begin with, we disassemble the heads into teeth, selecting the healthy and largest slices, which are often located closer to the edge.

Next, you should process the resulting material in a solution of a proven and available fungicide.

How to process garlic before planting:

1. Soak the cloves in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30-60 minutes.
2. Soaking in 1% copper sulfate solution (for 30 minutes).
3. Use the antibacterial drug "Maxim" or its analogues.
4. Use a strong saline solution in the proportion of 3 tablespoons of salt in a 5 liter bucket of water in the spring, just before planting in the open field. Duration of soaking is 3 minutes.
5. Soak the slices for half an hour in Fitosporin-M, diluted according to the instructions.
6. Use the infusion of wood ash (a tablespoon of this natural micronutrient per liter of water) on the eve of planting garlic in the open field in the open ground, processing time - 1 hour.

Garlic precursors when planting

When working outdoors in spring, it is imperative to observe crop rotation in order to reduce the risk of fungal spread and improve the composition of the soil. Tips for planting garlic experienced gardeners recommend avoiding the predecessors in the form of potatoes, tomatoes and onions.

A garden bed where alfalfa with clover, strawberries, green salad grew last season is perfect. A smart choice of neighbors for garlic, which contains natural phytoncides that help repel pests effectively.

It is advisable to place the beds with bulbs between the plantings of strawberries and carrots.

Ways of planting garlic in spring

The generally accepted rules for planting garlic in the spring always recommend setting a row spacing of about 20-30 cm. We make small holes, we maintain the distance between adjacent slices in rows up to 6-8 cm.

We lay out the slices with the bottom down without pressing into the ground.

To facilitate this process, experienced hobbyists use household hand planters or homemade markers in spring on large areas in the open field.

Planting depth of garlic in spring

For early spring and winter plantings, different rules for growing this crop are used. The planting depth of spring garlic in spring is about 5-7 cm.

For comparison, we recall that when planting before winter, the teeth should be buried in the open ground up to 8-12 cm, depending on the composition of the soil at the site.

Too shallow planting is undesirable, fast-growing roots often push the teeth out, where they die in the heat. Deep deepening will slow down the germination of garlic.

Fertilizer for garlic when planting

It is advisable to use the most fertile soil for garlic, but in the open field it is forbidden to bring fresh organic matter into the holes.

Due to the very early period of work, it is better to prepare the site for winter, always adding nutrients for digging into the ground - humus (up to 5 kg / m2) and superphosphate (15 g / m2).

Fertilizers when planting garlic in spring are allowed to apply the following:

1. The first feeding - 15 days after germination, we add urea in the form of an aqueous solution (1 tbsp. L / 10 l of water).
2. The second feeding - after 12-15 days, it is recommended to use a nitroammophoska (2 tbsp. L / 10 l).
3. The last top dressing in the open field - in the last decade of June, you can apply superphosphate in the form of an aqueous infusion (2 tbsp. L / 10 l) with an application rate of up to 4 l / m2 of the garden.

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Correct planting of garlic outdoors in spring

Garlic is a very healthy and popular crop that every gardener grows. The process of obtaining a rich harvest and planting in spring in open ground is quite simple, and even a beginner can cope with it, the main thing is to follow all the rules.

Recommendations regarding planting will be especially important, because the quantity and quality of the spicy heads obtained will depend on it.

With the help of step-by-step instructions, planting and growing heads of garlic in the country will not be difficult in the Moscow region, and in Belarus and even in Transbaikalia.

Garlic can be planted in both autumn and spring. The specific term will depend from the selected variety.

Experienced gardeners know that such a crop can be represented by winter or spring varieties. These two species differ from each other not only in terms of planting, but also in many other characteristics. You can plant and transplant them at different times, the same applies to sowing seeds for seedlings.

To distinguish them from each other, you need to know the main external signs of each species:

• winter garlic is planted in the fall, it is larger, the lobules are covered with a hard shell. In the middle there is a thick and hard rod, around which the teeth are located;
• spring is placed in open ground in early spring... Such heads are smaller, their skin is soft and resembles parchment. The teeth are small, their arrangement is chaotic.

Differences between spring and winter garlic

Winter garlic is suitable for fresh consumption and conservation, such varieties are stored for only 3-4 months. Spring has a less intense taste, but you can use it until the next harvest.

The specific dates of planting will depend on the climatic conditions of the region:

1. When carrying out an autumn planting, it is worth remembering that by the time the first frosts appear at the beginning of winter, the teeth should have time to form a powerful root system, this process takes 3-4 weeks on average. Based on this, all work should be carried out a month before the onset of frost, that is late September-early October;
2. Spring planting is carried out immediately after the winter snow cover melts, and the garden soil warms up to +6 degrees. Depending on the specific region, this may be April or early May.

When making a choice at what time to plant garlic, you need to think about the fact that not only the process of carrying out the work depends on this, but also characteristics of the resulting crophow it will emerge and whether it will be necessary to transplant in the summer.

The future harvest depends on the time of planting.

Winter garlic	Spring garlic
The taste of spring garlic is less intense, and the heads and cloves are small in comparison with winter varieties.	Winter garlic boasts large prongs that are easy to peel before cooking and have a bright, spicy flavor.
Spring garlic ripens for a long time, the yield of varieties of this type remains at a low level	Winter garlic ripens a month earlier than spring garlic, so you can use fresh tines already in summer, besides, the yield of this species is much higher
Spring garlic is able to maintain its freshness for up to 12 months	Winter garlic is only stored for 3-4 months
Spring planting guarantees a friendly emergence of seedlings and safe growth of plants	When carrying out an autumn planting, it should be borne in mind that there is always a risk of an earlier onset of frost or too much rainfall, which can destroy the planting
When caring for spring garlic, you should take care of sufficient watering during the formation of the teeth.	Winter varieties are formed using soil moisture
Spring varieties of garlic are not afraid of common diseases and pests	Autumn varieties are the most defenseless against various ailments.

The choice of planting dates and the type of vegetable grown will depend on the purpose of the cultivation. Experienced gardeners recommend planting in the beds both winter and spring crops plants.

Gardeners recommend planting those other varieties in the beds.

Each planting date has its own individual characteristics regarding the work. But there are also general rules that should be followed regardless of the time factor:

1. Before planting a vegetable, you must definitely calibrate, that is, to remove too small and somewhat diseased heads;
2. The most common mistake many gardeners make is planting winter crops in the spring. In this case, you can get a harvest, but it will not be as tasty and large as with an autumn planting;
3. In order to get a guaranteed yield, you should purchase zoned varieties... It is also worthwhile to study in advance all the characteristics, technology, how to sow and needs;
4. Once every 3 years, you need to carry out rejuvenation of the variety, that is, instead of the teeth, bulbs will be used as planting material, from which one-toothed teeth ripen in the first season. The resulting crop is used for planting the next year. As a result of such work, the garlic is renewed;
5. In order to harvest a high-quality crop, the deadlines must not be missed. You can identify them by the arrow that should burst. Bulbs should also form;
6. For a richer harvest, garlic feathers should be picked in a timely manner.

Before planting, the seeds need to be calibrated

The most important rule to follow when planting garlic will be deadlines.

In the fall, you cannot plant the teeth too early so that they do not germinate ahead of time, in the spring you cannot delay planting, because then the heads may not have time to mature before the onset of cold weather.

In order for the cultivation to end with success, you need to correctly carry out the planting work. It is also very important to competently look after the plantings and perform the necessary work in a timely manner.

Preparing seedling cloves

In order to get friendly shoots, which will subsequently bring a good harvest, you need to work hard and properly process the planting material:

1. 1. Well-dried garlic heads are divided into cloves without damaging dry scales;
   2. Then spend calibrationselecting large and healthy slices;
   3. Before spring planting, the cloves can be stimulated to a faster emergence of roots, for this planting material wrapped in a damp cloth and put in the refrigerator for several days;
   4. Before planting the teeth in the ground, they must be prepared.

There are three ways to carry out processing:

1. • The slices are soaked in warm water for 10-12 hours;
   • For these purposes, table salt is also well suited, which is diluted in water (3 tablespoons per 5 liters). This procedure is carried out for several minutes;
   • Another way would be chemicals that have a stimulating effect.
2. The last important procedure will be disinfection... To do this, the teeth are immersed in a solution of copper sulfate for 1-2 minutes (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Disinfection is carried out in a solution of copper sulfate

Potassium permanganate solution, Fitosporin-M and ash infusion are also well suited for antimicrobial treatment. In this case, the processing will take 30 minutes.

Garlic is quite capricious about the choice of soil and planting sites. When preparing a site, you should remember about all the preferences of this culture:

• in the best way the vegetable takes root on loamy and chernozem soils with neutral acidity;
• the place should be sunny and open;
• it is not recommended to plant garlic where onions, potatoes and tomatoes grew before it. Desirable precursors include cabbage, legumes, courgettes and cucumbers.

For spring planting, soil preparation is carried out in the fall, and for autumn planting a month before work. This procedure includes deep digging, loosening, removal of weeds and stones.

In order to balance the composition of the soil, clay and sandy soil is diluted with peat, and peaty loam.

Clay and sandy soils are diluted with peat

In order to get a rich harvest, before planting the soil you need enrich... The following fertilizers are applied to one square meter of soil:

• 1 bucket of humus or rotted manure;
• 1 bucket of compost;
• 1 cup dolomite flour;
• 1 tablespoon superphosphate;
• 1 tablespoon of nitrophosphate.

The final part will be the disinfection of the plantings, during which the beds are watered with copper sulfate or a solution of potassium permanganate. Experienced gardeners recommend covering the ridges with foil until the work is done.

Step-by-step instructions and at what depth to plant

The vegetable is planted in rows, the distance between which should be equal 20-25 centimeters... The distance between individual teeth will depend on their size, on average this figure is 10 centimeters.

The teeth deepen strictly vertical... In the spring, the embedment depth will be 5-6 centimeters. In the fall, this figure should be increased to 10 centimeters. This is necessary in order to protect the planting material from freezing.

Autumn, immediately after planting the beds, it is recommended to mulch with straw or dry grass. As soon as the snow melts, the shelter is removed.

Care

Caring for the garlic after planting will consist of timely loosening and cleaning the soil from weeds... Also, do not forget about watering. During the growing season, moisture should be applied abundantly.

Watering is reduced to a moderate amount when the fruit begins to form, because with an excess of moisture, garlic can be susceptible to various diseases. In rainy weather, watering should be reduced. Moisture application is stopped 2 weeks before harvest.

In addition to watering, garlic needs regular feeding:

1. 1 time in 10 days the soil is watered with a solution of phosphorus and potash fertilizers;
2. At the beginning of the growing season and after the formation of the head, the plants are fertilized with infusion of mullein or chicken droppings. 1 kilogram of fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water and infused for several days. After the end of fermentation, 1 liter of top dressing is diluted with 10 liters of water.

For additional protection against diseases and pests, preventive treatments with fungicides and insecticides are carried out in the spring.

To protect against diseases, spraying with fungicides is carried out in the spring.

It often happens that after the autumn planting of garlic, the gardener's plans change dramatically and the beds have to be transplanted to a new place. Many sources do not recommend carrying out such a procedure, because it can damage the root system of plants and destroy them.

But if work is necessary, then the planting is transferred together with a large earthy clod... In this case, losses will be minimal, but in any case, a smaller yield should be expected.

You can plant garlic in spring and autumn. The specific timeframe for the completion of the work will depend on the desired result. The key to successful work will be compliance with all the above rules.

Growing the best harvest of garlic outdoors

Before planting garlic, a growing method should be chosen, which may depend on varietal characteristics or desired harvest time. In the future, garlic, cultivation and care in the open field, for which it is correctly performed, will thank you with a generous and large harvest.

Winter and spring varieties of garlic

The varietal variety of garlic is quite large, since the varieties are divided into two groups, differing in the cultivation method and planting dates:

• Winter crops (shooting and non-shooting);
• Spring (non-shooting).

Winter varieties

They are characterized by larger heads and early ripening. Basically, the cultivation of winter garlic in the open field is carried out for consumption and use in cooking, since it is poorly stored.

Winter garlic variety - Lyubasha

Shooting varieties ripen faster than non-shooting varieties, but require additional labor for breaking arrows. Among the most popular winter varieties are:

• Zubrenok is a fruitful shooting variety with large heads.
• Alcor is a common variety among gardeners. Medium bulbs. The scales of the teeth are pink-violet.
• Lyubasha is a shooting variety with high juicy tops and large flattened bulbs.
• Herman is the most stable of winter garlic varieties with multi-toothed, medium-sized heads.
• The doctor is a non-shooting variety of medium ripening periods. The heads include up to sixteen teeth, transportable.

Spring varieties

Spring garlic varieties do not produce arrows. The teeth of the head are formed in several rows, and the outer ones are always larger and are recommended for further planting. Spring garlic, planting and care in open ground, which differs from winter garlic, has smaller bulbs in comparison with them, but it is stored much longer (up to a new harvest).

Spring Garlic Victorio

• Moskovsky is a large-fruited variety with white heads.
• Gulliver - characterized by dense flattened white heads and keeping quality up to 8 months.
• Victorio is highly resistant to disease. The denticles are yellowish in color. The heads are round, medium in size.

Preparing the beds for planting garlic

The opinion that garlic will grow everywhere is wrong.Large yields are possible only if the area for growing winter garlic or spring varieties is chosen correctly.

Preparation and fertilization of ash soil for garlic from autumn

Soil selection

• Choose a flat, sunny area. Garlic planted in the lowlands will get wet and rot. Its keeping quality is sharply reduced. In the shade, the vegetable will develop poorly and grow bulbs.
• Fertile and moisture-consuming soil is suitable, garlic loves loams, and soils oversaturated with organic matter.

Crop rotation rules for garlic

• It is undesirable to grow garlic after onions, cucumbers, carrots, tomatoes. The most suitable for garlic will be the beds on which grew cabbage, potatoes, legumes, or green manure plants.
• Garlic is a welcome neighbor for strawberries, strawberries, raspberries, roses, gooseberries and currants. It will scare away pests (slugs, borers, caterpillars and moles) from these crops, while developing well and forming a good harvest.

It's important to know

You can grow garlic on one bed for no more than two years in a row. In the future, this area can be returned to garlic only after four years.

Preparing the beds for garlic

The beds should be prepared in advance, digging them up in the fall and mulching with weeds. In the spring, in advance (at least two weeks in advance), you need to dig up the garlic bed on the bayonet of a shovel and add humus (bucket / m²), superphosphate (30g / m²), potassium salt (20 g / m²).

• If the acidity of the soil is increased, lime, chalk or dolomite flour of your choice for deoxidation must be added;
• When the soil is washed out and depleted, you should regularly water the beds with an ash solution, as well as dust the beds before digging in the spring and sprinkle abundantly with ash during autumn preparation.

Methods and timing of planting garlic

Garlic is a seedless vegetable. It reproduces only vegetatively - by cloves or air bulbs formed on the arrows. Therefore, his landing and preparation for it are different.

Bulbs or bulbs (other names - garlic seeds, air seeds, air bulbs) are called organs of vegetative reproduction - small bulbs, which by definition are not seeds. But the air capsule (has the second name - the seed case) on the arrow of the garlic, in which they grow, is called the seed.

Teeth preparation

Preparing garlic for outdoor planting

To ensure that the harvest does not disappoint you, the garlic cloves need to be properly prepared for planting.

• The heads are sorted, choosing the largest ones, and discarding the damaged ones. Even if one tooth with signs of infection is found in the head, the rest are also not suitable for planting.
• Treat the planting material with "Fitosporin" (soak the garlic for 5 minutes) to prevent fungal diseases. Soaking in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% iodine is possible.
• Apply pre-sowing fertilization by dipping the teeth into the ash slurry (pour 0.5 liters of ash into 1 liter of water and boil for 30 minutes). In the future, caring for winter garlic prepared in this way will be easier.

It is necessary to divide the heads of garlic into teeth just before planting. Otherwise, the bottom of the bulbs will dry out and the root system will not develop. It is better to remove the upper husk, since it is in it that pathogens and infections accumulate.

Gardener advice

For planting before winter, the garlic cloves must be well dried. Otherwise, it will start to germinate prematurely and will be damaged by frost.

Planting winter garlic

Winter garlic is planted in the fall, 25-30 days before the onset of stable cold weather. Usually this period falls on the end of September - mid-October. During this time, the teeth will root well, but will not have time to start growing.

• With an earlier fall planting, garlic will begin to grow, which is fraught with frost damage to the tops and a decrease in yield.
• If it is late, the teeth will not take root until the onset of cold weather and will freeze in winter.

Planting winter garlic outdoors

Garlic is planted in open ground in rows according to the scheme: row spacing - 20-25 cm, distance in a row - 8-10 cm.The teeth are stuck into the prepared grooves with the bottom down to a depth of about 5 cm.

The bottom of the groove should be loose so that the roots can penetrate deeply without hindrance. On light sandy and sandy loam soils, it is possible to plant garlic to a depth of 12 cm. There is no need to water the plantings.

When all the tines are planted, the bed is leveled with a rake and mulched with peat. Branches or spruce branches are laid on top. They will keep snow and winter garlic, planting and caring for which were initially carried out according to all the rules, will successfully overwinter.

How to plant winter garlic: growing and care, video

Landing air bulbs

The balloon planting method is used for a two-year crop cycle. This planting of winter garlic has several advantages:

• Healthy planting material. They do not come into contact with the ground, so they are not susceptible to infection by harmful bacteria.
• Saving. The best and most significant part of the garlic harvest is allocated for planting with tines.

Garlic boxes with air bulbs for planting

The air bulbs are planted in the same way as the prongs of winter garlic. In the first year, heads will grow from them into one clove for further planting, in the second - full-fledged bulbs.

Planting "air seeds" and growing garlic in the open field video

Planting spring garlic

Spring garlic is planted in the beds in early spring (early April), as soon as the snow melts, so the preparation of the site should be taken care of in the fall. It is not worth waiting for the soil to mature for comfortable work. The earlier the garlic is planted, the greater the harvest will be.

It is advisable to arrange the rows in the south-north direction so that the plants are evenly illuminated. In this case, the planting of garlic in the spring is carried out according to the same scheme as for the winter one (8-10 cm in a row, row spacing 20-25 cm).

Growing and caring for garlic outdoors

In the spring, garlic is one of the first in the garden to grow. In order for the harvest of garlic to be generous, planting must be given due attention. The care of garlic in the open field is reduced to timely feeding and regular watering.

Growing garlic outdoors

Garlic care in spring

When the first 2-3 leaves of garlic appear, the soil in the aisles must be loosened, and then mulched with peat or humus. Watering the plants begins as soon as the earth dries up. In this case, watering should be abundant (10 l / m²) and regular (once a week).

Lack of moisture negatively affects the yield - the bulbs become smaller or do not form at all. After each watering, it is imperative to loosen the soil in the garden bed.

Rules for watering garlic in spring

In the spring, the following fertilizers are applied:

• In the phase of 3-4 leaves - urea solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Fertilizer is poured over garlic from a watering can (by sprinkling);
• Two weeks later, a solution of nitrophoska or nitroammofoska (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) is added under the garlic.

When applying dressings in the spring, you need to remember that nitrogen-containing fertilizers are needed for garlic only in the initial phase of growth. Later, phosphorus-potassium supplements are needed. Lack of nutrients can cause premature yellowing of garlic leaves.

Important!

For garlic, which is properly cared for, fresh manure, as well as a large amount of other nitrogen fertilizers, must not be applied. This will cause violent growth of the green mass at the expense of bulb formation.

Summer care

In summer, watering of garlic is gradually reduced, and completely stopped at the end of June (2-3 weeks before harvest). Garlic care in June includes the last dressing. To do this, dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. superphosphate and water the garden with this solution.

Winter garlic with arrows

Taking care of garlic in July is necessary, when the arrows of winter garlic reach a height of 10 cm, they are broken out. So the plant will not expend energy on ripening "babies" and the bulbs will be larger.

For the propagation of garlic with air bulbs, it is enough to leave arrows on several plants. The rest of the technology for growing winter garlic and spring garlic is the same.

Protecting garlic from diseases and pests

Garlic is often exposed to fungal diseases, such as:

• fusarium;
• bacterial rot;
• white rot;
• black mold.

It is quite difficult to deal with them and spraying with fungicides (Bordeaux liquid, Fitosporin, etc.) does not always give the desired result. It is easier and more effective to prevent the development of these diseases by etching the teeth before planting and observing crop rotation.

Garlic yellowing problem

No less harm is caused by pests that complicate both the cultivation of winter garlic and spring garlic. The most dangerous of them are:

• stem nematode;
• onion fly.

To combat the nematode, preventive measures are used. Deep digging of the site, destruction of plant debris, planting chicory and calendula on the site will help.

To combat onion flies, root and garlic mites, as well as onion hoverflies, special solutions are used.

Onion fly remedy recipe

Pour a glass of tobacco dust and a few teaspoons of ground pepper with 2-3 liters of boiling water and insist warm for 3 days. Strain the infusion and dilute with water to 10 liters, then sprinkle with garlic. Such spraying should be carried out every 10-14 days.

Cleaning garlic from the beds

The harvest time is different for different varieties of garlic. Basically, harvesting begins in July, but it is better to determine readiness more accurately by yellowed lower leaves and by ripe and opened air capsules with bulbs. It is not worth pulling with the harvesting of garlic until the foliage dies completely. In this case, the heads will disintegrate and poorly stored.

Harvesting outdoor garlic

Advice from the gardener

Dig up garlic only in dry weather. Extracted from moist soil, it will not be stored and will rot quickly. When harvesting, you need to try to damage the roots as little as possible.

Cleaning garlic from the beds

Outcome

With proper preparation of the beds and adherence to planting technology, growing garlic in the open field will only bring pleasure, the plant will be healthy, and the harvest will delight you with an abundance. To preserve the garlic for the winter, the dug out bulbs are hung or laid out to dry in a dry, shaded place. The roots are cut from completely dry bulbs and stored as such.

Do you know which variety of garlic is one of the sweetest, thanks to its 10-12% sugar content? Yes, this is an amazing and wonderful spring garlic. It is, of course, less popular than the winter one, but it has an unforgettable spicy aroma of young greens, a not too sharp taste of cloves, and is perfectly stored (up to 2 years). You will learn about the differences between these two varieties, as well as about the intricacies of planting spring garlic in open ground in spring, about leaving after planting and harvesting from this article.

Spring and winter garlic: differences

Novice summer residents may accidentally confuse winter garlic with spring garlic. To avoid this, you need to know the main differences:

• Outwardly, spring garlic contains a greater number of small cloves (which are arranged as if in a spiral: the closer to the center, the smaller they are). Winter crops, on the other hand, consist of larger ones with a central core (hard arrow).
• Winter garlic is planted in the fall before winter, in the spring it is the spring garlic that is planted.
• Spring garlic propagates only by chives, winter garlic can also be propagated by bulbs (bulbs).
• The yield of winter garlic is much higher than that of spring garlic.
• Spring is better and longer stored (at home from 1 to 2 years). Winter varieties are generally suitable for early autumn canning (average shelf life is about 3-4 months).
• Winter garlic, as a rule, is shooting, spring varieties are non-shooting (with the exception of such a variety as "Gulliver"),
• The taste qualities of spring garlic are more attractive (it is corny sweeter). It is great for use in salads, soups.

Video: how to distinguish winter garlic from spring garlic

Planting winter garlic in spring

If for some reason you decide to plant winter garlic in the spring, then plant it! You should be fine. The following videos prove it.

Video: is it possible to plant winter garlic in spring

When and how to plant spring garlic outdoors in spring

In general, the agricultural technique of planting spring garlic in the spring is similar to the autumn planting of winter garlic, but has several important nuances and differences.

Landing dates

The optimal time for planting garlic in spring directly depends on the climatic characteristics of the region. The cloves should be planted when the soil temperature warms up to + 3-5 degrees, he is not afraid of light return frosts. As a rule, in the conditions of the Middle Strip (Moscow region), this occurs approximately in the second half of April - early May. In the South - already at the end of March and beginning of April. But in Siberia and the Urals, garlic is most often planted in the last spring month.

Preparing the beds and places

A garden bed for spring garlic should be prepared in advance, preferably in the fall. The vegetable loves to grow in fertile land. It is good if it is medium and light loamy soils.

As for the location of the garlic bed, you should choose sunny places where water does not stagnate. Therefore, it is optimal to plant cloves in high beds, in which case you will reduce the risk of fungal diseases due to excessive moisture to the very minimum.

When it comes to crop rotation, green manures (such as a chamber or oats), legumes (peas), pumpkin and zucchini, as well as strawberries (garden strawberries) and cucumbers are good precursors for garlic. You should not plant it in the beds where root crops (potatoes, radishes, beets, carrots, onions) and nightshade crops (eggplant, pepper, tomato) used to grow.

Preparation of planting material

The activities for the preparation of garlic cloves for planting in open ground include the following: selection and calibration of planting material, its stratification, soaking for its disinfection and growth stimulation.

Carefully review all your planting material in advance. Take all specimens showing signs of disease and place them separately. However, you should not immediately separate the cloves from the heads, it is recommended to do this only the day before planting during the procedure of disinfection and soaking in growth stimulants.

Important! If there are only a few cloves in the head, or they are fused (as if doubled), then most likely, by planting such cloves, you are unlikely to get a decent harvest, because these are typical signs of degeneration.

Further processing of spring garlic before spring planting includes all subsequent actions.

About a month before planting garlic in the spring in open ground, it should be placed in a refrigerator or basement (cellar) for stratification, where the air temperature fluctuates around + 1-3 degrees.

Advice! For planting, it is advisable to choose the outer teeth of the first row (they are the largest). The middle part, as a rule, is not used due to the fact that too small bulbs and cloves are obtained from it. Although you can successfully use them for planting on greens (or just leave them for food). Therefore, be sure to separate such cloves and plant them on a separate bed.

Somewhere a day before planting, spring garlic should be taken out, allowed to lie down for a while at room temperature. Divide the heads into teeth, examine them again for diseases.

If the quality of the cloves leaves much to be desired, then on the day of planting it is required to soak them in warm water with the addition of such fungicides as Fundazol, Maxim. If the quality is good, then it is better to just hold it in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (for 20-30 minutes).This procedure is done with the aim of disinfecting the seed so as not to bring the disease to your summer cottage.

You can disinfect garlic before planting in other ways. For example, in an ash solution. Fitosporin, which has long proven its effectiveness and indispensability, is also suitable.

After the disinfection procedure, you can additionally process the garlic heads in one of the growth stimulants. For example, in Epin or Zircon, as well as in the Green Bud (all according to the instructions). Another option for awakening the heads is to soak them in a saline solution (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water) for 1-2 minutes (this will help protect the plant from the wireworm). Such preparation of garlic before planting will significantly increase its germination and increase the rate of its development.

Video: preparing spring garlic for spring planting

Head landing

Highlights when planting garlic in spring (or some sort of step-by-step guide):

• Make ridges and good grooves (at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from each other), into which it is recommended to pour a little vermicompost. Optionally, you can also add Fertik's "Spring-Summer" long-lasting fertilizer. In addition, there will be no excess wood ash (potash fertilizer).
• Spill the wells liberally with plain water. Once the soil has absorbed moisture, you can start planting.
• The planting depth of spring garlic is slightly less than for winter garlic. It should be about 2-3 centimeters. Obviously, overly buried teeth will simply grow slowly.
• You need to plant spring garlic closer than winter garlic (8-10 cm). That is, the distance between the teeth should be about 4-6 centimeters. This is due to the fact that the bulbs of such (summer) garlic grow much smaller.
• It is advisable to mulch the bed with sawdust. This will greatly simplify maintenance, in other words, reduce the number of watering and weeding.

Video: planting spring garlic

Spring garlic care after planting

Spring garlic is grown in much the same way as winter garlic. It requires quite a bit of care, which should include loosening, weeding, watering and feeding.

Naturally, the bed should not overgrow, but always be clean, so it is worth carrying out regular weeding from weeds.

Abundant and frequent watering of spring garlic is required only at the beginning of its formation, so that it, so to speak, has good green foliage. In other words, in May-June, watering of garlic beds should be frequent. When the plant begins to form a bulb, this usually occurs during the formation of 5-6 leaves, watering should be reduced, and closer to August, and completely stop.

Spring garlic must be fed during its growing season. For this, organics are best suited. However, do not overdo it, otherwise overflowing with organic fertilizers can provoke yellowing of the foliage and other diseases. You can also use urea.

It is good to feed the garlic directly to the root in the middle of summer (in July) with Aquarin (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), adding 1 liter of horse manure infusion to this solution. Such feeding will help to enlarge the bulb and provide nutrition for faster ripening. Not only that, you can use potassium-rich wood ash. It is enough for her to lightly powder the planting.

And 3 weeks before the expected date of harvesting, it is appropriate to water the garlic beds with top dressing from a solution of potassium monophosphate.

By the way! Read more about dressing garlic in this article.

Harvesting for storage

In most cases, harvesting spring garlic from the beds begins from the second half of August to the end of September. It is very simple to determine the time when it is worth getting a vegetable by the following signs of its ripening: the leaves begin to lie on the ground, the tips turn yellow, and the lower leaves dry out a little.

After harvesting, it is recommended to dry it a little and put it away for storage, for example, in boxes that can be placed at home somewhere near a window.

Video: harvesting spring garlic

Whatever one may say, but spring garlic quite easily saves any housewife: when there is not enough taste and vitamins, it is undoubtedly suitable for all dishes, except for compote. But it is possible to grow this capricious culture only with knowledge of the peculiarities of planting and caring for it in the spring. So take into account our tips and tricks, and your work on growing garlic will be crowned with success.

Video: briefly about growing spring garlic - from planting to harvest

Gardeners living and gardening in the Urals, especially in the northern regions, should be smart about choosing a garlic variety. The selected variety must fully comply with the climatic conditions of the region in 2018. It is also important to know exactly when garlic is planted in the Urals. More recently, there were no spring varieties of garlic, which are intended to be grown in harsh climatic conditions, and gardeners were forced to sow winter varieties. For the northern part of the Urals, the best variety is the one that throws out an arrow with an inflorescence, because this species is considered winter and it is more resistant to low air temperatures.

Planting garlic in the Urals

Suitable varieties of garlic for the Urals

The main territory of the Urals has a climate where very cold winters are replaced by sultry and short summers. Given this situation, it is necessary to correctly calculate the time when it is better to plant plantings in open ground and which variety of winter or spring garlic to choose.

Varieties for the north of the Urals

• Nazus
• Vyatsky
• Amethyst
• Azure

Varieties for the south of the Urals

• Victorio
• Gulliver
• Dobrynya
• Gribovsky jubilee
• Lyubasha

The southern part of the Urals has a fairly stable climatic regime; therefore, any varieties, including spring varieties, can be planted on this territory. It is recommended to consult a specialist before choosing a variety of garlic for planting.

Landing dates

The time when you need to plant garlic in open ground depends entirely on the climate in one or another part of the Urals. For the northern part of the Urals, planting begins in the middle of the second decade of September, but if it starts getting colder earlier, it is worth planting garlic before the first noticeable frost. As for the southern part of the Urals, the timing and time completely depend on the weather, but as a rule, disembarkation is made closer to mid-October. When we plant garlic, it is very important to take into account the state of the temperature regime. Also, many gardeners rely on folk signs and thus determine the optimal timing.

Folk omens

• Planting of garlic is carried out from the moment the birds migrate to winter mode in warm regions.
• You can plant garlic when your fingers start to freeze on the street.
• If the soil has cooled to such an extent that it is cold to stand on it with bare feet, then this means that you can start sowing.

Lunar landing

If you look at the lunar calendar, you can see that the most suitable time for landing is in mid-August. The terms according to the lunar calendar may vary slightly, but we plant the planting material no later than the period from August to September. For the cultivation of garlic to be successful, you need not only to take into account the dates according to the lunar calendar, but also to comply with the necessary requirements for the care and cultivation of your plantings. Due to the fact that the climate is gradually changing, few people observe the landing dates according to the lunar calendar. To get a good harvest, it is worthwhile to correctly calculate the time for growing planting material. That is, to have time to make a landing before the onset of stable cold weather.

Landing in open ground is done about 30-35 days before the ground begins to freeze.This is done so that the planting material can sprout roots, but does not seek to hatch out of the ground.

You also need to take into account what kind of culture grew in the soil before planting the seeds. You need to be very careful that garlic should not be planted in one place for two years in a row. The bed rest is about 3-4 years. Unfavorable soil is the soil where onions and other root crops used to grow. There are also crops after which the cultivation of garlic is recommended - these are cucumbers, eggplants, peppers and pumpkin. If you plant garlic in a garden bed, where previously favorable crops grew and at the same time observe the terms according to the lunar calendar, you can get a plentiful and healthy harvest.

Preparing garlic for planting

Plant the garlic with cloves

Spring garlic is planted by dividing the head into separate cloves, but winter garlic can be used in two types of planting material, it can be both cloves and seeds that ripen on the arrow. When propagated by seeds, it will take two years for the head to fully mature, and when multiplied by cloves, a formed head grows the next year.

But no matter what method of reproduction is chosen, it is necessary to correctly prepare the planting material. In order for the planting material to subsequently give a good and healthy harvest, disinfection should be carried out immediately before planting in the ground. First of all, you should deal with the bulkhead of the cloves, remove damaged seeds and dried ones, with decay and very small ones. Then you should soak the planting material in the appropriate order in the following solutions:

• In a salt solution - at the rate of 3 tablespoons per 5 liters of water. Leave the seeds in it for 2 minutes.
• In a solution of copper sulfate - 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water. Soak the seed in the solution for 1 minute.

But these two procedures can be replaced with one, in the presence of furnace ash. To do this, pour 400 g of ash with two liters of water, then boil everything for 30 minutes and cool. In the prepared and cooled solution, you need to soak the seeds for 2 hours.

Soil preparation

Plays a huge role for a rich harvest, fertilized and fertile land. Soils with a high content of sand or drainage are most suitable for this. Too acidic and heavy soil can significantly reduce yields. To remove acidity, lime is added to the soil at the rate of 1 glass per 1 square meter. You can also increase soil drainage by adding river sand to it.

Before planting the planting material in open ground, you need to dig up a piece of land for planting to a depth of 20-25 cm in about 2-3 weeks. The soil should not be deeper.

In the process of digging, you need to fertilize the ground at the rate of 5-6 kg of humus per 1 square meter of the plot. In no case should the soil be fertilized with fresh manure, this threatens the death of planting material or a significant decrease in yield. After digging up and applying fertilizer, the area is watered with a saline solution at the rate of 1 glass of salt per 1 bucket of water and covered with polyethylene before planting begins.

Landing rules

When to plant garlic for the winter in the Urals? When planting planting material for autumn and winter, the planting schedules corresponding to the region in which the work is taking place must be followed. When you decide on the timing of planting, both in the southern and northern Urals, you can start planting planting material. On pre-prepared soil, you need to make grooves about 10-15 cm deep and a row spacing of at least 15 cm. Planting garlic in the fall in the Urals should be carried out according to all requirements, otherwise the plants cannot be protected from early decay.

The teeth themselves in the groove are planted so that the distance is at least 10 cm between them.At the end of planting, the filled grooves should be compacted so that the teeth take root faster and an air cushion does not form. The first watering is done after the soil is completely dry. Then mulching is done. For the northern regions of the Urals, mulching will not be enough, so gardeners have to cover the garden for the winter with improvised means or agrofibre.

Garlic care

Planting and growing garlic in the fall in the Urals is not difficult and, subject to the basic rules, you can dig a good and bountiful harvest even from a small plot in a cold region. If for the winter the bed was covered with insulation, then, accordingly, all work begins only in spring. After the snow has melted, the soil should be loosened, but not deeply, so the young roots are saturated with oxygen.

Tips for planting garlic before winter

Planting garlic before winter.

Planting winter garlic. When to plant winter garlic.

Growing garlic in the South Urals.

Super IDEA for planting GARLIC!

How to Plant Garlic Correctly! Planting Garlic in Spring.

When to plant winter garlic

In the spring, planting is watered as the soil dries. At the very beginning, you need to control so that the soil is constantly moistened. As it ripens, watering is reduced and already 3-4 weeks before harvesting, the plantings are not watered. Otherwise, excessive moisture can lead to premature rotting of the harvested crop. It is necessary to ensure that weeds do not grow on the beds. To save time on watering and weeding, the garden bed should be mulched. Mulching retains moisture and prevents weeds from germinating.

Fertilization procedure

If the fertilization of the soil for the winter was done in due order, then in the fall there is no need for additional fertilization. Only with the onset of spring will it be necessary to feed the kidney for three visits or more.

• After the snow melts, the soil should be watered with the prepared urea solution. The solution is prepared as follows: 1 tablespoon per 1 bucket of water at the rate of 2 liters per 1 square meter.
• 14 days after the first feeding, nitrophoska is applied in a proportion of 2 tablespoons to 1 bucket of water. Fertilizers are produced at the rate of 4 liters of the prepared mixture per 1 square meter.
• Around the middle of summer, a month before the start of harvesting, superphosphate should be applied to the soil. The solution is prepared in a proportion of 2 tablespoons per 1 bucket and is introduced into the ground at the rate of 4 liters per 1 square meter.

Those gardeners who prefer to fertilize the soil with natural products can use rotted manure. When all the rules of plant care are followed, good yield and quality are guaranteed.

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Reviews and comments

Planting garlic outdoors

Garlic is a hot spice that is actively used in cooking and traditional medicine.

Growing and caring for garlic in the open field on their own gives gardeners the opportunity to get the maximum benefit from it without harm to health, which the purchased one can bring.

Meanwhile, it is quite easy to grow a culture at home if you know and follow the basic rules of planting and caring for a plant.

Before starting the growing procedure, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the basic rules and recommendations:

1. Garlic beds are best chosen in places well-lit by the sun.
2. Avoid planting a crop in a low-lying area. In such conditions, the accumulation of liquid is possible, which will have a detrimental effect on the condition of the plants.
3. It is important to add natural or synthetic fertilizer to the soil before planting.
4. It is recommended to mulch over the winter bed and cover it with brushwood to delay the snow masses.
5. The sowing depth directly depends on the size of the seed. The largest varieties should be deepened by eight to nine centimeters, the smaller ones by six to seven.
6. Only large seeds should be chosen for planting.Separate them from each other carefully. You do not need to peel the cloves.
7. Do not sow into freshly dug soil, otherwise the tines will be deeper than necessary. Prepare the soil no earlier than a week.
8. The sowing site should be changed regularly (at least once every two years). You can use the same ridge only with an interval of four years.

The correct approach to growing crops will allow you to grow a high-quality and rich harvest, and also significantly reduce the likelihood of disease and plant death during the nursing period.

When to plant garlic outdoors?

There are two options for planting garlic in open ground: autumn (for winter) and spring (for spring).

It is recommended to plant a crop in autumn from the second half of September to mid-October. You can also calculate the timing of the expected frost period, depending on the region. The most suitable time for sowing is 35-45 days before the start.

Spring garlic should be planted when the soil temperature warms up to 5-10 degrees Celsius. As a rule, this time falls on the end of March or the beginning of April.

All sowing dates in spring are relative. In this case, a lot depends on the region. So, in the warmest it is best to plant the crop earlier, in the colder ones - later. The final landing date is the end of April.

The best precursor to garlic is considered to be potatoes. You can also sow a crop in those places where zucchini, cucumbers and peas grew.

The worst predecessor is onion of all varieties and varieties. If you grow garlic the next year after the onion is harvested, you can expect a small and poor quality harvest.

The same goes for tomatoes and carrots.

The culture can also coexist with raspberry bushes, roses, strawberries, currants. In this case, the plant will help repel pests.

Soil preparation

The soil for sowing in open ground must be sufficiently fertile and drained, moisture-consuming. Loam is perfect. It is important that the soil is not dry. The ridge should be prepared for spring sowing in the fall.

To do this, you need to dig up the soil and apply fertilizer to it. Each square meter will require twenty grams of potassium salt and superphosphate, as well as a bucket of humus. This procedure can be performed in the spring, no later than two weeks before sowing.

The distance between the finished rows should be d2 decimeters, between other ridges - at least 1.

It is best to plant the teeth in the grooves, but at the same time they should not be pressed into the ground.

Too dense soil mixture will contribute to the freezing of the plant from the roots.

Important: You can neutralize the increased acidity of the soil with the help of dolomite flour, chalk or hydrated lime.

Preparation of planting material

First of all, all potential seed must be sorted out and sorted. Choose for growing only whole, healthy, large seeds. They should be further subjected to pre-planting processing.

Important: the presence of at least one tooth damaged by the disease in the head automatically rejects the entire bulb.

The selected seed must be treated with the antifungal agent Fitosporin. To do this, it is enough to soak the cloves in the drug solution for five minutes. In the absence of this remedy, you can use a pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% iodine solution.

Before direct planting, it is useful to carry out a second processing of the material. To do this, pour half a kilogram of wood ash with a liter of water and boil the composition for half an hour. Each clove will need to be dipped in the cooled solution, and then dried thoroughly.

Sowing is also possible with the so-called bulbs - the organs of vegetative propagation of garlic.

These are small bulbs that form in the seed case on the arrow of the plant itself during ripening.

The system of material selection, planting and growing practically does not differ from the system of using cloves.

Landing in open ground

Having prepared the soil and planting material, you can proceed to planting directly.

The procedure will take several steps:

1. Loosen the prepared soil with a spatula, hoe or other most convenient tool.
2. Make grooves with a depth corresponding to the dimensions of the prepared teeth from five to 10 cm. The distance between them should be twenty to thirty centimeters.
3. Place the garlic sprouts down into the grooves, about five centimeters apart. The teeth should be deepened by about half.
4. Fill the grooves with soil, trying not to unnecessarily tamp the ridge. Otherwise, the garlic may not sprout.
5. Smooth the surface of the ridges with a rake, avoiding deep penetration of the tool into the soil.

The soil for sowing in open ground should be moist, but not wet. Therefore, it is recommended to shed it in advance.

Outdoor garlic care

Basic crop care includes four aspects: timely watering, weeding, fertilizing and loosening the soil.

Watering

It is recommended to bring water into open ground regularly, but infrequently (once every one to two weeks).

It is enough to use 10 liters of water per square meter. During the rainy season, the number of waterings should be reduced to a minimum.

At the same time, it is important to periodically loosen the soil so that it absorbs moisture better.

As the ridges mature, they are watered with less and less moisture. Watering is completely stopped 2 weeks before harvesting.

1 time in 10 days, it is necessary to add potash and phosphorus additional fertilizing to the soil. It is important to strictly follow the instructions for use indicated on the package.

In addition, at the very beginning of the growing season and after the seed box is formed, it is recommended to fertilize the soil with natural fertilizers, which you will need to make yourself.

A kilogram of mullein or chicken droppings requires about 10 liters of water. It is important to keep such a solution for 3-5 days for fermentation. After that, each liter should be diluted with a bucket of water and irrigated.

With high-quality processing of planting material, the risk of disease and fungus is reduced.

Additionally, it is useful to disinfect the soil by spilling it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate immediately before planting. It is also recommended to carry out treatment with insecticides and fungicides in the spring.

It is important to weed as needed. Removing weeds once a week is usually sufficient.

Important: as soon as the formed seed pod bursts, it must be removed from the plant by breaking or cutting the arrow.

Harvest

Harvesting garlic should be carried out at a time when the greens turn yellow by about 2/3. As a rule, it takes about 100 days for a crop to mature, and the end of the period falls in mid-September. The ripeness of the crop is indicated by a loose connection of teeth in the head and dry husk.

In order to carry out cleaning, it is necessary to dig up the onion and pull it out by the tops. In this state, the plants should be laid out to dry.

After that, it is important to remove the soil, and move the heads for storage in a cool place. You can trim the roots and tops as early as a week after harvesting.

Conclusion

Growing garlic in the country or in a garden plot in the open field is a useful and interesting activity.

If you use all the rules of sowing and care, you can get a tasty and healthy crop that can be stored for a long time.

Such garlic can be used both in cooking and traditional medicine without fear for the health and quality of the finished product.

Growing garlic outdoors. Garlic: planting, leaving

Garlic is one of the oldest vegetable crops, home to the foothill Central Asian regions. It is a seasoning, a burning spice, and a great medicine. Therefore, no vegetable garden is complete without planting this representative of the Bulbous family.

Growing garlic outdoors is usually not a big problem for gardeners. It is believed that this is not difficult. Still, it's not easy to grow a good harvest.

Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology, technology and planting care is necessary for the successful growth of this wonderful vegetable crop.

Garlic: the history of the plant

It is impossible to establish exactly from what time garlic has been present in people's lives. Already in ancient times, it was grown in India and used as a medicine.

Historians claim that they began to use it for food about 5 thousand years ago: the found manuscripts speak of the cultivation of garlic in Ancient Rome and Greece, Assyria and the Kingdom of Judah, Egypt and Arab countries.

He was found in the tombs of the pharaohs. The Bible and the Koran mention it, which testifies to the high recognition of this magnificent bulb as a spice and medicinal plant for ancient civilizations.

And today it is difficult to do without this culture, so we will deal with the intricacies of growing such a wonderful plant as garlic.

The site for planting is of decisive importance. It should be flat, not flooded by spring floods and located on the sunny side.

It is imperative to observe the order of crop rotation: garlic should be grown in the same place for no more than 2 years.

The ideal plant predecessors are squash, peas, potatoes, cucumbers.

The soil should be moderately fertile, well-drained. The general rule for planting is to observe the intervals: 8-10 cm between the teeth and 18-20 cm between the rows.

Access to air and light is a prerequisite for good crop growth. In addition, such distances are optimal for subsequent fertilization and weeding.

An indispensable rule of quality selection of garlic cloves for planting is the choice of the right variety. There are two types of bulbs - winter and spring. You can plant it in the spring - then you need spring garlic. Planting before winter, of course, involves winter varieties.

Bulbs should be selected large, without damage. Divide them into cloves should be immediately before planting. A feature of winter garlic is that it needs long-term stratification for successful growth, that is, staying in cold conditions for several months.

That is why it is planted before winter. For high-quality vernalization of garlic at the beginning of development, low temperatures are also required, and this regulates the timing of sowing spring garlic.

It is planted in early spring, as soon as the snow has melted, so that the vernalization time (up to 40 days) passes at an air temperature of + 5–10 ° C.

Planting garlic before winter

Among Russian gardeners, the main representative of bulbous plants planted before winter is winter garlic.

Growing it is a responsible business: it is necessary to work in the fall, observing the conditions of planting, taking into account the time and place, tillage and application of the necessary fertilizers, and in addition, the choice of a suitable variety.

The garden for planting garlic should be started a month before planting. The earth must be well dug up, weeds and roots must be removed.

Then the soil must be carefully leveled and shed with peat-humic fertilizer for nutrition and disinfection. After 10 days, humus or well-aged manure infusion is applied at the rate of 10 liters of fertilizer per 2 sq. m.

The earth must be loosened, shed and grooved, then ash and sand must be added to them to avoid the formation of rot.

Terms and technology of planting winter garlic

A favorable time for planting in non-black earth regions of Russia is the third decade of September.

You can't plant the garlic earlier - the cloves will have time to release the greens and freeze, and the roots will weaken. If planted later, the garlic will not have time to take root.

Garlic is planted, deepening it by 10 cm, in the prepared grooves, well spilled with water in advance.

Important! Growing garlic outdoors suggests some peculiarities.

When planting, it is impossible to press in the cloves with force (summer residents often sin with this) - pushing off from the compacted soil, the sprouting roots will begin to push the bulb upward, which will lead to freezing.

The final stage of planting is leveling the soil, mulching with peat, sawdust and warming from above with spruce branches. In dry autumn, garlic should be watered once a week. A large harvest of garlic can be expected during a good winter with snowfalls.

Therefore, if the winter is with little snow, and the planting areas for garlic are small, snow should be thrown onto the beds. Subject to these simple rules, the future harvest of garlic will be reliably protected from adverse influences.

Spring garlic: cultivation and features

To activate the growth processes, the separated cloves are treated as follows: for 10-12 hours they are soaked in a solution of a growth stimulator with the addition of several grains of manganese for the prevention of diseases.

So, having chosen the variety of spring garlic you like, having processed it accordingly, they proceed to spring planting.

Note that the early planting of garlic is also explained by the temporary supply for the complete ripening of the bulbs, which is a guarantee of their high quality and excellent keeping quality.

There is an opinion that spring garlic is more useful than winter garlic and does not lose its medicinal properties and presentation during storage.

Growing garlic outdoors, especially from the early spring days, requires maintaining the same intervals as when planting before winter, and then carefully monitoring the germination and condition of the shoots.

Garlic is extremely sensitive to soil acidity, so fresh manure cannot be applied. Only humus should be used as top dressing. When planting garlic in spring, it is useful to add urea at the rate of 30 grams to irrigation water. for 10 liters of water.

This amount of solution is enough for 2 square meters. m. In addition to nitrogen fertilizers, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are also needed. The first shoots appear in 12-18 days. During the formation of leaves, fertilizing with wood ash is necessary.

In addition, it is an effective pest repellent.

The agrotechnology of growing garlic is simple. The main condition for the good development of bulbs is timely feeding. But it is equally important to ensure planting with regular watering.

Lack of water has a detrimental effect on the development of the bulb, therefore, the main issue is to ensure optimal planting moisture. It is important not to overdo it - excess water is harmful. Watering in the amount of 10 liters per m² is considered the norm.

By the time the garlic ripens, watering is gradually reduced, in the last 2-3 weeks before harvesting, the need for water disappears. Regular weeding and loosening of row spacings are equally important.

Garlic is harvested at the end of the plant's life cycle - between the yellowing of the leaves and their drying.

Growing garlic from bulbs

The number of cloves in the bulb is limited, therefore the most promising is the propagation of the culture with bulbs or air bulbs.

Their use increases the possibility of garlic multiplication several times. In the northern and temperate latitudes of Russia and Siberia, air bulbs are planted in the spring, and it is very important to preserve them in the winter.

They are well stored in inflorescences at a temperature of 15-20 ° C. Two months before planting, in early March, they are moved to a cooler place.

Growing garlic from bulbs predetermines several conditions: the bulbs must ripen and be well preserved.

They are planted in five lines with ribbons, deepening the bulbs by 3 cm, and then mulching the bed with humus. Care for the seedlings is the same as for spring garlic, that is, they are weeded, watered and fed with any organic matter in a timely manner.

In the fall, one-toothed beetles ripen, which are not removed, but left to winter, not forgetting to cover the crops and organize snow retention. In the spring they germinate and harvest in July-August.

Growing garlic from bulbs takes place in a two-year cycle, resulting in an excellent crop.

Rare culture - rockambol

The popular in Europe and Asia culture of rockambol, or hairstyle, is still rarely found in Russia.

But gardeners who have already become acquainted with this culture appreciated its excellent, pleasant taste.

By its biological characteristics, this plant is suitable for growing in all Russian regions.

Rocambol is a representative of the lily family, but outwardly resembles large garlic.

Rocambol, whose cultivation practically does not differ from the usual garlic, also loves fertile neutral soils, responsive to organic fertilizing and weeding. With proper care, the bulbs of this culture reach 250-300 grams.

Diseases and pests

Many pests parasitize plants, causing irreparable harm to garlic. The most common of these are the stem nematode and the garlic mite.

They are able to harm not only during the development of culture, but also during storage. In addition to phytophagous insects, there are also diseases of garlic, the most dangerous of which are peronosporosis, cervical rot, and fusarium.

The main measures to combat diseases and pests are preventive measures: compliance with crop rotation, timely destruction of affected plants and infected bulbs, preparation of planting material.

Careful use of fungicides is also possible. The industrial cultivation of garlic implies a more intensive use of such preparations.

Nevertheless, it is the modest summer cottages that give a healthier harvest, since any gardener is very picky about the use of chemicals, preferring to do with more gentle methods.

Growing garlic in the open field involves simple, but demanding operations, the implementation of which guarantees a good harvest of a wonderful crop.

Growing garlic outdoors or how to get a good harvest from every garden

Garlic is also mentioned in inscriptions left on the surface of the ancient Egyptian pyramids. He managed to find an earthen onion inside the tomb of Tutankhamun himself.

And the world famous Pythagoras called everyone's favorite garlic the king of spices. And it was not in vain that he received such a sonorous name. Although known to the whole world for about 3 thousand.

years, but continues to be popular among the population of countries such as Italy, Korea, India, China.

The gardeners of our country have been successfully cultivating garlic for many years.

Many, especially beginners, are interested in proper planting and care in the open field, so we will talk about the key points in more detail below.

Now you will find out when it is better to plant a crop, how to prepare the beds, how to self-plant.

Disembarkation dates

Nowadays, breeders have managed to breed many excellent varieties of garlic. Among them, you can choose three for growing on your own personal plot.

These are non-shooting winter crops, non-shooting winter crops and non-shooting spring varieties known to experienced gardeners. As for their characteristic features, winter crops ripen early, have large heads and teeth, and have good yields.

But they cannot be stored for too long. Used for the preparation of various dishes and preservation.

Winter varieties include such as Yubileiny Gribovsky, Komsomolets, Boguslavsky, Gulliver, Petrovsky and others.

Spring varieties require special storage conditions and can be stored for a long time.

Popular types for planting in open ground are Yelenovsky, Ershovsky, Degtyarsky, Gafuriysky, Ukrainian white.

Shooting varieties of winter garlic, which tend to form a bulb with 2 - 6 large teeth, and non-shooting, which form a multi-pronged bulb, are recommended to be planted on the site 35 - 45 days before frost.

This time falls on the second half of September - early October. Before planting, large and medium bulbs are selected, divided into prongs, weighing no more than 6 grams. Bulbs that have 2 to 3 prongs are not used.

It is advised to update the planting material every 3 to 4 years.

The recommended timing for planting spring garlic is early spring. You can plan planting for the first days of sowing, but no later than the first ten days of April.

Spring bulbs are often multi-toothed bulbs. It is better not to choose teeth that are medium in size for planting.

Garden bed preparation

It is important to properly prepare the land for cultivation. It is recommended to choose an area with fertile soil that has a neutral acidity level. Garlic will grow well in loamy soil.

It shouldn't be too dry. You can not plant the plant in the lowlands. Since there often accumulates rain and water remaining after the melting of snow. The site should be dug up in the fall.

It is required to do this to a sufficient depth. Do not forget to add about 30 grams of superphosphate, 20 grams of potassium salt and 1 bucket of humus per square meter of area.

With the arrival of spring, you only need to level the site using a rake for this purpose.

All cabbage pitchforks, as well as pumpkin, zucchini, beans, peas, green manure are considered excellent precursors for garlic. It is not recommended to plan the planting after carrots, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and garlic.

The neighborhood with garlic is useful for crops such as black currants, potatoes, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, wild strawberries. Garlic will definitely be a reliable protection for them from pest attacks.

How to plant

It is permissible to plant garlic in the presence of a soil temperature of about 12-15 degrees Celsius. Then the culture will be able to form a strong root system. This will increase the degree of winter hardiness of the plant.

Before planting, the site must be leveled. The spacing in the row spacings is normally from 20 to 25 cm. The spacing between the teeth is no more than 12 cm. It is permissible to plant them in furrows, but without pressing them into the soil. Planting depth is somewhere around 8 - 9 cm.

To prevent the teeth from freezing, it is advised to use planting material measuring 6 - 7 cm. The bed must be mulched. For this, high-quality humus, peat or sawdust are used. The brushwood spread over the site will be able to retain snow in the beds.

Remember to remove the top layer when the spring thaw begins.

Outdoor care

To get a good harvest, it is necessary to regularly water the plantings, carry out weeding and loosening, and make certain top dressing.

You should also remove the arrows that appear, which take away strength and useful elements from garlic, directing them to the formation of planting material.

You also need to know how to help the culture in the event that it is attacked by diseases and pests. Next, we will tell you more about proper watering and fertilization.

Watering

Watering the crop is required as the soil dries up. If the weather is rather dry, it is necessary to water abundantly. Its frequency is usually 10 to 12 liters per square meter.

If it rains constantly, natural rainfall should be enough for the plants. Then it is easier for the gardener, because there is no need for watering at all. Watering must be stopped in August.

At this time, the bulbs already have time to gain sufficient weight and volume. That is, they are fully formed.

Fertilizers and feeding

Garlic gratefully responds to fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. Top dressing is required in early spring. You will need high-quality potash and phosphate fertilizers. To get a good harvest, you need to fertilize three times.

For the first time, superphosphate is used in an amount of up to 100 grams, ammonium nitrate - about 60 grams and the same amount of potassium sulfate per square meter. The second feeding is carried out 1 month after the first. The same fertilizers are used and in the same amount as for the first.

When the heads are about the size of a walnut, you can fertilize the plants a third time. When feeding in the spring, remember that nitrogen-containing fertilizers are needed only at the beginning of the growth of garlic.

Later, it is permissible to use only preparations containing sufficient quantities of elements such as phosphorus and potassium. Their deficiency can provoke yellowing of the surface of the foliage of the culture. You can feed your favorite culture in the summer.

To do this, in June, a solution of 10 liters of water is added to the soil with the addition of 2 tablespoons of superphosphate, with which the beds are watered.

Diseases and pests of garlic

Of the characteristic diseases for the plant, sulfur, cervical and white varieties of rot are dangerous, as well as fusarium, helminthosporiosis, jaundice, smut, peronosporosis (aka downy mildew), mosaic, tracheomecosis, and rust. The pests of garlic are tobacco thrips, stem nematode, onion lurker, cabbage caterpillars, winter, garden and gamma scoops, onion and sprout flies, onion moth, long-legged, bear.

Prevention of the appearance of troubles is the observance of crop rotation and the rules of agricultural technology.

Planting the culture in the old place can be carried out after 4 - 5 years, the crop storage should be treated with a solution of 400 grams of bleach, dissolved in 10 liters of water, a few months before laying the garlic.

The pre-sowing treatment of the bulbs and tines also plays an important role. The teeth are advised to warm up at a temperature of about 40 - 42 degrees Celsius for 10 hours.

For the treatment of diseases, it is customary to use modern fungicidal agents. For example, having identified foci of rust damage to the culture, the gardener can purchase the drug "Hom" based on copper oxychloride.

With which the plant should be processed. In the early stages of defeat, such fungicides as "Kuproksat", "Gamair", "Champion" are effective.

The drugs "Tiram", "Polycarbocin", "Fentiuram", "Arcerida" are effective against peronosporosis. The modern drug Fitosporin successfully fights against all fungal diseases.

With its solution, not only the soil should be treated, but also the seeds and storage of the crop.

"When and how to plant garlic outdoors"

In this video, you will learn about when and how to plant garlic outdoors in autumn.

Planting garlic in the open ground in spring - rules that should not be neglected

The upcoming planting of garlic in the open ground in spring is the most important event for every vegetable grower.

This bulbous plant is of great value in cooking, folk medicine, it is used in many dishes and for homemade preparations.

With the right approach, the harvest of this crop is able to bring the owner of the site a regular income.

Planting garlic in spring

On the farm, winter garlic is more often used for processing, selling on the market and preserving; it is distinguished by large cloves and better yields.

If the question arises about long-term storage, then varieties for spring sowing have an advantage. Winter bulbs are normally stored until early January, after which their quality deteriorates, and spring bulbs do not deteriorate until mid-spring.

If there is a spring planting of garlic in the open field, then it is better to purchase the following varieties:

• Gulliver;
• Abrek;
• Sochi 56;
• Aleisky;
• Yelenovsky;
• Victorio;
• Permyak.

The difference between spring and winter garlic:

1. Predominantly spring garlic does not form arrows.
2. Spring bulbs do not hibernate in the open field; they begin to plant it in the spring.
3. In a bulb of spring garlic, up to 30 cloves can be formed, winter garlic has no more than 10 cloves.
4. The cloves of this garlic become smaller towards the center of the head and are arranged in a spiral.
5. Bulbs in winter species grow larger when planted outdoors.
6. Planting garlic in the open ground in spring is carried out with the cloves of the harvest of last year, the propagation of winter garlic can be done with air bulbs.

Planting garlic in the open ground in spring - timing

This culture has little time for the growing season, therefore, in the open field, the timing of planting garlic in spring begins in the southern regions already at the end of March when the soil is heated to a temperature of 5-6 ° C.

For the Moscow region and more northern regions with a cool climate, the work time is shifted, depending on weather conditions, to the third decade of April or even to the first days of May. Try not to delay the planting time.

Delay in timing can lead to a drop in yields by 50% or more in dry years.

Preparing garlic for planting in spring

Bulbous plants in the open field suffer from many diseases, so you need to study well the problem of how to prepare garlic for planting in spring.

To begin with, we disassemble the heads into teeth, selecting the healthy and largest slices, which are often located closer to the edge.

Next, you should process the resulting material in a solution of a proven and available fungicide.

How to process garlic before planting:

1. Soak the cloves in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30-60 minutes.
2. Soaking in 1% copper sulfate solution (for 30 minutes).
3. Use the antibacterial drug "Maxim" or its analogues.
4. Use a strong saline solution in the proportion of 3 tablespoons of salt in a 5 liter bucket of water in the spring, just before planting in the open field. Duration of soaking is 3 minutes.
5. Soak the slices for half an hour in Fitosporin-M, diluted according to the instructions.
6. Use the infusion of wood ash (a tablespoon of this natural micronutrient per liter of water) on the eve of planting garlic in the open field in the open ground, processing time - 1 hour.

Garlic precursors when planting

When working outdoors in spring, it is imperative to observe crop rotation in order to reduce the risk of fungal spread and improve the composition of the soil. Tips for planting garlic experienced gardeners recommend avoiding the predecessors in the form of potatoes, tomatoes and onions.

A garden bed where alfalfa with clover, strawberries, green salad grew last season is perfect. A smart choice of neighbors for garlic, which contains natural phytoncides that help repel pests effectively.

It is advisable to place the beds with bulbs between the plantings of strawberries and carrots.

Ways of planting garlic in spring

The generally accepted rules for planting garlic in the spring always recommend setting a row spacing of about 20-30 cm. We make small holes, we maintain the distance between adjacent slices in rows up to 6-8 cm.

We lay out the slices with the bottom down without pressing into the ground.

To facilitate this process, experienced hobbyists use household hand planters or homemade markers in spring on large areas in the open field.

Planting depth of garlic in spring

For early spring and winter plantings, different rules for growing this crop are used. The planting depth of spring garlic in spring is about 5-7 cm.

For comparison, we recall that when planting before winter, the teeth should be buried in the open ground up to 8-12 cm, depending on the composition of the soil at the site.

Too shallow planting is undesirable, fast-growing roots often push the teeth out, where they die in the heat. Deep deepening will slow down the germination of garlic.

Fertilizer for garlic when planting

It is advisable to use the most fertile soil for garlic, but in the open field it is forbidden to bring fresh organic matter into the holes.

Due to the very early period of work, it is better to prepare the site for winter, always adding nutrients for digging into the ground - humus (up to 5 kg / m2) and superphosphate (15 g / m2).

Fertilizers when planting garlic in spring are allowed to apply the following:

1. The first feeding - 15 days after germination, we add urea in the form of an aqueous solution (1 tbsp. L / 10 l of water).
2. The second feeding - after 12-15 days, it is recommended to use a nitroammophoska (2 tbsp. L / 10 l).
3. The last top dressing in the open field - in the last decade of June, you can apply superphosphate in the form of an aqueous infusion (2 tbsp. L / 10 l) with an application rate of up to 4 l / m2 of the garden.

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Correct planting of garlic outdoors in spring

Garlic is a very healthy and popular crop that every gardener grows. The process of obtaining a rich harvest and planting in spring in open ground is quite simple, and even a beginner can cope with it, the main thing is to follow all the rules.

Recommendations regarding planting will be especially important, because the quantity and quality of the spicy heads obtained will depend on it.

With the help of step-by-step instructions, planting and growing heads of garlic in the country will not be difficult in the Moscow region, and in Belarus and even in Transbaikalia.

Garlic can be planted in both autumn and spring. The specific term will depend from the selected variety.

Experienced gardeners know that such a crop can be represented by winter or spring varieties. These two species differ from each other not only in terms of planting, but also in many other characteristics. You can plant and transplant them at different times, the same applies to sowing seeds for seedlings.

To distinguish them from each other, you need to know the main external signs of each species:

• winter garlic is planted in the fall, it is larger, the lobules are covered with a hard shell. In the middle there is a thick and solid rod, around which the teeth are located;
• spring is placed in open ground in early spring... Such heads are smaller, their skin is soft and resembles parchment. The teeth are small, their arrangement is chaotic.

Differences between spring and winter garlic

Winter garlic is suitable for fresh consumption and conservation, such varieties are stored for only 3-4 months. Spring has a less intense taste, but you can use it until the next harvest.

The specific dates of planting will depend on the climatic conditions of the region:

1. When carrying out an autumn planting, it is worth remembering that by the time the first frosts appear at the beginning of winter, the teeth should have time to form a powerful root system, this process takes 3-4 weeks on average. Based on this, all work should be carried out a month before the onset of frost, that is late September-early October;
2. Spring planting is carried out immediately after the winter snow cover melts, and the garden soil warms up to +6 degrees.Depending on the specific region, this may be April or early May.

When making a choice at what time to plant garlic, you need to think about the fact that not only the process of work depends on this, but also characteristics of the resulting crophow it will emerge and whether it will be necessary to transplant in the summer.

The future harvest depends on the time of planting.

Winter garlic	Spring garlic
The taste of spring garlic is less intense, and the heads and cloves are small in size compared to winter varieties.	Winter garlic boasts large prongs that are easy to peel before cooking and have a bright, spicy flavor.
Spring garlic ripens for a long time, the yield of varieties of this type remains at a low level	Winter garlic ripens a month earlier than spring garlic, so you can use fresh tines already in summer, besides, the yield of this species is much higher
Spring garlic is able to maintain its freshness for up to 12 months	Winter garlic is only stored for 3-4 months
Spring planting guarantees a friendly emergence of seedlings and safe growth of plants	When carrying out an autumn planting, it should be borne in mind that there is always a risk of an earlier onset of frost or too much precipitation, which can destroy the planting.
When caring for spring garlic, you should take care of sufficient watering during the formation of the teeth.	Winter varieties are formed using soil moisture
Spring varieties of garlic are not afraid of common diseases and pests	Autumn varieties are the most defenseless against various ailments.

The choice of planting dates and the type of vegetable grown will depend on the growing purpose. Experienced gardeners recommend planting in the beds both winter and spring crops plants.

Gardeners recommend planting those other varieties in the beds.

Each planting date has its own individual characteristics regarding the work. But there are also general rules that should be followed regardless of the time factor:

1. Before planting a vegetable, you must definitely calibrate, that is, to remove too small and somewhat diseased heads;
2. The most common mistake many gardeners make is planting winter crops in the spring. In this case, you can get a harvest, but it will not be as tasty and large as with an autumn planting;
3. In order to get a guaranteed yield, you should purchase zoned varieties... It is also worthwhile to study in advance all the characteristics, technology, how to sow and needs;
4. Once every 3 years, you need to carry out rejuvenation of the variety, that is, instead of the teeth, bulbs will be used as planting material, from which one-toothed teeth ripen in the first season. The resulting crop is used for planting the next year. As a result of such work, the garlic is renewed;
5. In order to harvest a high-quality crop, the deadlines must not be missed. You can identify them by the arrow that should burst. Bulbs should also form;
6. For a richer harvest, garlic feathers should be picked in a timely manner.

Before planting, the seeds need to be calibrated

The most important rule to follow when planting garlic will be deadlines.

In the fall, you cannot plant the teeth too early so that they do not germinate ahead of time, in the spring you cannot delay planting, because then the heads may not have time to mature before the onset of cold weather.

In order for the cultivation to end with success, you need to correctly carry out the planting work. It is also very important to competently care for the plantings and perform the necessary work in a timely manner.

Preparing seedling cloves

In order to get friendly shoots, which will subsequently bring a good harvest, you need to work hard and properly process the planting material:

1. 1. Well-dried garlic heads are divided into cloves without damaging the dry scales;
   2. Then spend calibrationselecting large and healthy slices;
   3. Before spring planting, the cloves can be stimulated to a faster emergence of roots, for this planting material wrapped in a damp cloth and put in the refrigerator for several days;
   4. Before planting the teeth in the ground, they must be prepared.

There are three ways to carry out processing:

1. • The slices are soaked in warm water for 10-12 hours;
   • For these purposes, table salt is also well suited, which is diluted in water (3 tablespoons per 5 liters). This procedure is carried out for several minutes;
   • Another way would be chemicals that have a stimulating effect.
2. The last important procedure will be disinfection... To do this, the teeth are immersed in a solution of copper sulfate for 1-2 minutes (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Disinfection is carried out in a solution of copper sulfate

Potassium permanganate solution, Fitosporin-M and ash infusion are also well suited for antimicrobial treatment. In this case, the processing will take 30 minutes.

Garlic is quite capricious about the choice of soil and planting sites. When preparing a site, you should remember all the preferences of this culture:

• in the best way the vegetable takes root on loamy and chernozem soils with neutral acidity;
• the place should be sunny and open;
• it is not recommended to plant garlic where onions, potatoes and tomatoes grew before it. Desirable precursors include cabbage, legumes, courgettes and cucumbers.

For spring planting, soil preparation is carried out in the fall, and for autumn planting a month before work. This procedure includes deep digging, loosening, removing weeds and stones.

In order to balance the composition of the soil, clay and sandy soil is diluted with peat, and peaty loam.

Clay and sandy soils are diluted with peat

In order to get a rich harvest, the soil needs to be enrich... The following fertilizers are applied to one square meter of soil:

• 1 bucket of humus or rotted manure;
• 1 bucket of compost;
• 1 cup dolomite flour;
• 1 tablespoon superphosphate;
• 1 tablespoon of nitrophosphate.

The final part will be the disinfection of the plantings, during which the beds are watered with copper sulfate or potassium permanganate solution. Experienced gardeners recommend covering the ridges with foil until the work is done.

Step-by-step instructions and at what depth to plant

The vegetable is planted in rows, the distance between which should be equal 20-25 centimeters... The distance between individual teeth will depend on their size, on average this figure is 10 centimeters.

The teeth deepen strictly vertical... In the spring, the embedment depth will be 5-6 centimeters. In the fall, this figure should be increased to 10 centimeters. This is necessary in order to protect the planting material from freezing.

Autumn, immediately after planting the beds, it is recommended to mulch with straw or dry grass. As soon as the snow melts, the shelter is removed.

Care

Caring for the garlic after planting will consist of timely loosening and cleaning the soil from weeds... Also, do not forget about watering. During the growing season, moisture should be applied abundantly.

Watering is reduced to a moderate amount when the formation of fruits begins, because with an excess of moisture, garlic can be susceptible to various diseases. In rainy weather, watering should be reduced. Moisture application is stopped 2 weeks before harvest.

In addition to watering, garlic needs regular feeding:

1. 1 time in 10 days the soil is watered with a solution of phosphorus and potash fertilizers;
2. At the beginning of the growing season and after the formation of the head, the plants are fertilized with infusion of mullein or chicken droppings. 1 kilogram of fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water and infused for several days.After the end of fermentation, 1 liter of top dressing is diluted with 10 liters of water.

For additional protection against diseases and pests, preventive treatments with fungicides and insecticides are carried out in the spring.

To protect against diseases, spraying with fungicides is carried out in the spring.

It often happens that after the autumn planting of garlic, the gardener's plans change dramatically and the beds have to be transplanted to a new place. Many sources do not recommend carrying out such a procedure, because it can damage the root system of plants and destroy them.

But if work is necessary, then the planting is transferred together with a large earthy clod... In this case, losses will be minimal, but in any case, a smaller yield should be expected.

You can plant garlic in spring and autumn. The specific timeframe for the completion of the work will depend on the desired result. The key to successful work will be compliance with all the above rules.

A herbaceous plant, garlic is popular all over the world for its characteristic odor, pungent taste and beneficial properties. It is used in the preparation of many hot dishes, preservation and salting. Regular consumption of this spicy vegetable helps protect the body from the flu, cope with anemia and colds. That is why it is impossible imagine a garden without beds with spring garlic, which can be stored for a long time and used as food in winter.

When to Plant Summer Garlic?

The spicy vegetable belongs to frost-resistant plants and is able to withstand subzero temperatures in snowy winters. However, if there is little snow in winter, it can freeze out. Therefore, in the Urals and Siberia, most gardeners prefer to plant garlic in the spring.

Garlic is planted in the spring from late April to early May. The roots and leaves of the plant grow and form at an air temperature of +4 to +10 degrees. At higher temperatures, the bulb does not form, therefore, it is not recommended to linger with planting the vegetable.

Winter varieties are planted in the beds from mid-September to early October. The plants must have time to form a root system, so they must be planted before the onset of frost.

Planting garlic in spring in temperate climates has its advantages:

1. When plants are planted in warm soil, the seedlings are friendly. But the cloves planted in autumn can freeze out in winter.
2. Summer garlic is highly resistant to pests and diseases.
3. You can plant garlic in spring on almost any soil. It will grow well even in medium loamy soil.

Soil preparation

It is recommended to plant spring garlic after herbs, cereals, legumes and pumpkin crops, cabbage, zucchini, cucumbers. After garlic, onions, potatoes and carrots, a spicy vegetable can be planted only after three years.

It is not recommended to plant the plant next to beans, peas and cabbage. These crops are depressed by garlic. But since it repels many pests, its neighborhood will be useful for strawberries, onions, tulips, roses, gladioli and various fruit-bearing shrubs.

The plot for spring garlic is chosen protected from the north wind and well lit. The soil should be neutral and fertile, loamy or sandy loam.

It is recommended to prepare a garden bed in the fall.by adding for each square meter of soil:

• compost or humus - ½ bucket;
• complex mineral fertilizer - 15 grams;
• wood ash - 3 glasses.

In the spring, the site is leveled and cloves of garlic are planted on the garden bed.

Planting garlic in spring

For planting in open ground, elastic and whole, medium or large teeth are selected. Just before boarding they are separated from the head and, together with the scales, are planted in the garden.

A month before planting, it is recommended to dig the heads in the snow or put them in the vegetable box of the refrigerator for hardening.Twelve hours before sowing, the planting material is warmed up for ten hours at a temperature of +40 degrees or treated with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

To make the teeth grow faster, they can be wrapped in wet gauze or cloth three days before planting and put in a plastic bag.

The cloves should be planted in moist soil to a depth of three centimeters. There should be a distance of twenty-five to thirty centimeters between the rows. Large planting material they are spaced ten centimeters apart from each other, and the middle teeth are planted with an interval of eight centimeters.

Plantings can be mulched with rotted compost or peat with a layer of two to three centimeters. The mulch will retain moisture and reduce weed growth, making plant maintenance much easier.

Features of the care of spring garlic

Caring for a spicy vegetable consists in timely watering, feeding, weeding and loosening the soil... When plants grow greenery, watering should be abundant. With a lack of moisture in the soil, the tips of the feathers begin to turn yellow and dry.

In the second half of the growing season, the frequency of watering decreases. Excess moisture in the soil at this time leads to evaporation of the onions and to various diseases. If it rains regularly in the summer, then the plantings do not need to be watered. After rain or watering, the soil is cleared of weeds and loosened.

When the first leaves appear from the ground, the plants are fed with mineral nitrogen fertilizers, humus, herbal infusion, a solution of bird droppings or mullein.

Two weeks later, another liquid fertilizing with a nitrogen content is carried out. When the chives begin to form, spring garlic is fed with an infusion of wood ash. Fresh manure cannot be used as fertilizer. It is recommended to feed the plants until mid-August..

Cleaning and storing garlic

When two-thirds of the foliage turns yellow, you can start harvesting the garlic. This usually happens in mid or late August. It is impossible to keep a spicy vegetable in the ground for a long time, since its bottom begins to grow, the teeth disintegrate, and the scales crack. Such onions will not be suitable for long-term storage.

Two weeks before cleaning the soil is raked away from the heads, and watering stops. This procedure will help the onions to ripen and dry out.

Harvesting vegetables should be done on a dry and sunny day. The onions need to be dug with a fork, pulled out of the soil and spread out on the garden bed. If it does not rain, then it will take about five days to dry vegetables in the fresh air. If it rains, the plants are placed in a well-ventilated dry area.

When the onions are well dry, the leaves are cut off completely, and the stem is shortened to ten centimeters. It is also recommended to shorten the roots.

Store garlic at an air temperature of +16 to +20 degrees. The room must be well ventilated and dry. For storage, you can use wooden boxes, wicker baskets, mesh bags... If the household has only plastic containers, then in them the onions will need to be sprinkled with coarse-grained salt. It will absorb moisture and vegetables will not rot.

Garlic pests and diseases

Despite the fact that the spicy plant repels many pests, it can be affected by four-legged garlic mites, horse mites, stem nematodes, hoverflies, lurkers, moths, thrips, and onion flies. The most difficult thing to do is to get rid of the stem nematode. These pests in the form of small worms feed on the juice of the onions, as a result of which the fruits crack and the plants dry out completely. Nematodes multiply rapidly and can destroy the entire crop. To protect plants from these pests, chicory or calendula are planted in the same garden with garlic.

To destroy other pests, you can use the biological product Bitoxibacillin or Lepidocide. Solutions are prepared from themwith which the plantings are processed.

From diseases, spring garlic can affect white rot, downy mildew, peronosporosis, bottom rot, black mold. Fungal diseases are manifested by bloom on the bottom of the onions and between the scales, the death of roots, the appearance of yellow spots on greenery, yellowing and drying of feathers. Treatment is carried out with the help of treatment with the drug Namair-TM or Alirin-B.

So that plants are not affected by pests and diseases, it is necessary to observe agricultural practices and take preventive measures. Planting pests can be protected with spring and summer feeding in the form of ammonium sulfate. If the bulbs have been planted too close, then the plants need to be thinned out. Affected specimens are pulled out and destroyed.

Choosing a variety of spring garlic

The right variety is the key to a good harvest.... According to the ripening period, the varieties of the spicy vegetable are divided into late, mid-season and early. Popular varieties of spring garlic:

1. Degtyarsky - the variety bred by the Ural breeders is distinguished by its sharp, white pulp, pink leathery scales, reddish outer scales with purple strokes, bulbs weighing up to forty grams. Each head consists of fifteen to eighteen teeth. Bulbs are stored for up to ten months.
2. Ershovsky is a non-shooting, disease-resistant, semi-acute variety with bulbs weighing up to thirty-five grams. The heads consist of twelve teeth and are stored for no more than seven months.
3. Moskovsky is a low-sharp, high-yielding, mid-season, non-shooting variety with bulbs weighing up to fourteen grams. Multi-tooth rounded heads are characterized by high keeping quality.
4. Abrek is a mid-season variety with a sharp-tasting pulp and heads weighing up to twenty-five grams. Each onion consists of thirteen to sixteen cloves. They are stored for up to seven months.
5. Victorio is a semi-sharp, productive, mid-season variety with heads weighing up to forty grams, which contain about thirteen cloves. The shelf life of Victorio garlic is up to eight months.
6. Permyak is a mid-season, non-shooting variety intended for planting and cultivation in northern regions; it contains many essential oils, which is why it has a rather pungent taste. Head weight up to thirty-four grams. It consists of about fifteen teeth.
7. Sochi 56 - resistant to cold conditions and diseases, fruitful, early maturing variety is distinguished by heads with strong white scales. The weight of the onions is about forty-five grams. They contain sucrose, due to which the garlic of this variety has an excellent taste. Bulbs can be stored for up to eighteen months.
8. Yelenovskiy is a non-peeling, fruitful, disease-resistant, frost-resistant variety, if properly stored, can retain its taste and useful properties for up to two years. Its dense heads consist of seven to nine teeth and weigh up to thirty-five grams.
9. Aleisky - intended for cultivation in Siberia, the variety has a sharp taste. The weight of the head reaches twenty-five grams. The disadvantage of the variety is its instability to the fungal disease Fusarium.
10. Gulliver is a mid-season, disease-resistant, high-yielding variety with large bulbs that can weigh from ninety-five to one hundred and fifteen grams. With good care and cultivation in nutritious soil, the bulb can gain weight up to two hundred and fifty grams. The gray-scaled heads consist of only four or five pungent-tasting cloves.
11. Flavor is a mid-season variety popular in Western Europe with a not very pungent taste. Its heads weighing up to eighty grams are distinguished by pale pink scales and pastel-cream small teeth, which are located in two rows. Up to twenty cloves can form on one onion.
12. Kledor is a fruitful, mid-season, elite foreign variety with heads weighing up to fifty-five grams, each of which consists of sixteen to twenty cloves. The onions are covered with a pink shell.The variety is prized for its high resistance to bacterial and fungal diseases.

Choosing a variety suitable for your area, proper planting and care will allow you to get a good harvest of tasty and healthy garlic in the summer. Having set up storage heads necessary conditions, until next summer you can enjoy dishes with the addition of a spicy vegetable.

> Incorrect crop rotation, when the alternation of vegetable crops is not observed in one place for a long time, causes a lot of harm to soil fertility, plant productivity and a lot of benefits to the increased accumulation and development of similar diseases and pests. To minimize its negative consequences, one should focus on a variety of types of vegetable crops that heal the soil, and at the same time saturate it with the necessary nutrients, and also, which is very significant, suppress the vital activity of insect pests and pathogenic bacteria and fungi. Many summer residents who like to grow garlic and onions in their garden plot, after collecting useful vegetables, wonder what to plant after them on the freed bed so that it is not empty, does not overgrow with weeds, but is ennobled and besides gave a new crop. say, pumpkin, cabbage, nightshade, legumes, and even strawberries if desired. All this will be discussed in our article.

What can you plant after garlic and onions this season (in July-August)

After harvesting garlic or onions, you can plant a lot of crops, but your choice will largely depend on the climatic characteristics of your place of residence, because the next vegetable or greens must have time to ripen, in other words, the length of their growing season is important. These crops, for example, should prefer shorter daylight hours and tolerate cooler conditions and early frosts well. You should not, of course, forget about the rules of crop rotation.

Vegetables and greens

Cucumbers

It is believed that after harvesting the garlic, it is best to sow cucumbers in its place. But in this case, you must definitely take early maturing varieties. And do not forget that cucumbers love the sun, so if you start to get cold early (you do not live in the south), then later you will have to put arcs and cover the plantings with agrofibre or film to maintain the required temperature.

Video: sowing cucumbers after harvesting garlic

In general, sowing cucumbers in July is a fairly common practice. Many summer residents grow green cucumbers with great success on the site of the former garlic or onion beds.

Video: planting cucumbers in July

Radish and radish

In certain regions, summer residents manage to grow on a garlic or onion garden regular radish, but in this case, it is better to wait until August, so that the length of daylight hours will decrease even more, and the radish will definitely not go into the arrow.

Advice! For planting, a variety such as "French breakfast" is ideal.

Video: what can be sown in August after collecting onions and garlic

But already in July you can sow black radish or Margelan (green), and daikon (remember that this plant is thermophilic, you should not wait until August). These vegetable crops are sown exactly at this time - in the middle or in the second half of summer.

By the way! When and how to properly plant a radish in open ground is described in detail here.

Legumes: beans and peas

Some gardeners plant beans after garlic, but they may not have time to ripen, and its benefits for the soil are not as high as that of siderates.

Important! Detailed information on how to grow beans, in this article.

It calms down the fact that it is much easier to sow peas from legumes on a former garlic or onion bed, which have time to ripen perfectly.

Note! Planting and growing peas will help you this material.

Greens

It is very good after such root vegetables, such as onions, to sow various spicy herbs, for example, parsley, dill, spinach, lettuce, cilantro or arugula, although their planting should not be spontaneous, and it is better to postpone it until August.

Interesting! There is an old principle"Tops after roots"which fits perfectly here.

Chinese cabbage

Summer residents who especially value space even manage to plant seedlings and grow cold-loving Peking cabbage.

Siderata

To improve the fertility of the soil in the vacant place after harvesting the garlic, it is best to sow green manures, for example, white mustard, vetch or phacelia. They will just have time to build up the green mass, and do not forget that this is the best organic fertilizer for your garden.

Moreover, by sowing mustard, you will thereby be able to prepare (fertilize) a bed for autumn planting. strawberries.

Note! On our website you can find instructions and tips for planting strawberries in the fall.

Video: what to sow in late July and early August

What to plant in the beds where garlic and onions grew next year

In addition to the already listed vegetables and herbs, as well as siderates, next season it would be reasonable to plant in place of a garlic or onion garden according to the rules of crop rotation:

• potato;
• beets;
• cabbage;
• zucchini and pumpkin;
• strawberries (can be planted in the fall after mustard);
• bell pepper;
• tomatoes.

By the way! Although, if you manage to harvest the onions and garlic back in June (if you live in the south or it has warmed up early this year), and you still have seedlings, then you can plant peppers and tomatoes in their place.

What not to sow and plant in a former garlic or onion patch

According to the rules of crop rotation, in the place where garlic or onions used to grow, but you do not need to sow and plant:

Important! After garlic and onion extremely not recommended again plant the same crops in the same garden bed.

If at your summer cottage you carefully and carefully focus on the correct distribution of planting material and at the same time want to increase the fertility of the soil and the yield of your beds in general, listen to our time-tested advice and recommendations and organize the rational planting of various vegetable crops after harvesting an early harvest of garlic and onions.

Video: what you definitely need to sow in July and August

Experienced summer residents know how to plant garlic in order to get a good harvest. Garlic is a frost-resistant crop and can be planted both in winter and early spring.

• it is necessary to choose a sunny place in the garden;
• it is recommended to plant garlic after cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, peppers;
• it is not recommended to plant garlic after all types of onions and garlic, potatoes, carrots, beets, tomatoes;
• the soil for garlic must be fertilized in advance.

Most summer residents prefer to plant winter garlic in late autumn, but it is better to give up this habit, since if you plant this crop before the onset of frost, garlic will not form a powerful root system, and in spring it will be weakened.

How to plant garlic in winter? It is necessary not to delay the timing and do it in early autumn, for planting it is better to use large-sized cloves.

To avoid unwanted diseases and rot, it is necessary to carry out prophylaxis of cloves intended for planting, for this they are soaked in a very weak solution of potassium permanganate or in a solution of the drug "Maxim" for bulbous.

Garlic loves loamy and sandy loamy soils that are rich in humus. It is advisable to place the beds in the direction from north to south, the distance between the rows should be about 40 cm, and between the garlic about 10 cm.

Spring garlic is planted in the spring as early as possible, with the first exit to the garden, if you are a few days late with planting, then the yield of garlic will noticeably decrease.

The yield of spring garlic is affected by the storage temperature. When storing garlic at a temperature of 18-20 degrees, its growing season is lengthened, and the bulb is formed quite large. But experience shows that garlic may not ripen and the bulb may not even have time to form. If the garlic for planting is stored at low temperatures, this will lead to a reduction in the growing season, but the bulb is formed at the same time.

Therefore, it is better to store spring garlic when changing temperatures. First, store at a temperature of 18-20 degrees, and a month and a half before planting, reduce the temperature to 3-5 degrees. With this mode, the period from planting to germination is shortened, the growing season is averaged, which contributes to a better formation of bulbs and an increase in the number of covering scales. Thus, the shelf life of the garlic is increased.

The best results were obtained when planting cloves weighing 2 g. The teeth should be the same size. The area of ​​plant nutrition is selected depending on the purpose of cultivation. For consumption, a slightly thickened planting of cloves in a row (about 4 cm from each other) is quite possible. To obtain seed bulbs, the gap in the row is made larger, up to 10 cm.

You should start planting winter garlic in the second half of September. When parsing garlic heads into teeth, try not to damage the covering scales, as the teeth with damaged upper scales will rot in the ground. It is also better to select the same teeth for planting.

After planting, it is advisable to sprinkle the soil with rotted manure or mature compost. In the spring, the mulching layer must be filled up after the soil has warmed up.

At the end of June, garlic plants shoot out (throw out arrows). They must be broken out regularly, do not allow them to stretch more than 10 cm. A plant that has gone into the arrow will give a smaller bulb. In addition, try to prevent the heads from overripe in the ground. In overripe garlic, the upper scales burst, teeth crumble in the head. Such heads cannot be stored.

Air bulbs - bulbs - are not capable of producing any garlic, this property is possessed by shooting winter varieties.

Why is this breeding method interesting? Garlic from bulbs grows very viable, much less affected by pests and diseases. Another good reason is the saving of planting material. Indeed, for planting, you have to spend almost a seventh of the harvest.

The harvest from the bulb is expected for two years. With spring sowing, small garlic heads with one-toothed teeth are obtained by August. In the next season, large heads grow from them. In the south, many plant bulbs in September. The planting depth of the bulbs is 3-5 cm.

Before sowing, mark out the plot and use the hoe to make grooves of the indicated depth. Then lay out the bulbs, taking into account whether you will transplant them for the next year or not. If the transplant is not envisaged, then sow sparsely, no more than 3 cm between the air bulbs. For 1 running meter, 25-30 bulbs are required.

So, we examined the features of planting winter and spring garlic, as well as planting garlic with air bulbs. It has been proven that the phytoncides of this beneficial culture kill pathogenic microbes. In addition, garlic stimulates digestion, regulates blood circulation, and prevents the development of atherosclerosis. Grow this wonderful plant at home and be healthy!

> It is known that garlic is spring (summer) and winter. The difference between them is not only in planting time, but also in the size of the bulbs. Winter varieties are distinguished by larger heads, while it is almost impossible to grow large garlic from spring varieties.

It is sometimes difficult for novice gardeners to distinguish winter varieties from spring ones. And this is a very important point, since winter varieties are planted in the garden in autumn, and spring varieties in spring. If the tines are confused, you can not hope for a harvest at all.The main difference between winter garlic is the rod, to which the prongs are attached, and most often its heads have an even number of cloves. Spring garlic does not have a rod, and the number of teeth can be different, moreover, they are much smaller in size than winter ones.

Of course, you can get a higher yield from winter varieties, but it must be borne in mind that such garlic is not stored for long - at most until February. Summer varieties are not so large, but their shelf life can be up to two years. For sale, it is more profitable to grow winter garlic, since it has a good presentation. But in order to consume the product until the next harvest, it is better to opt for summer varieties, among which there are also those with large heads.

For example, the Gulliver variety is a rather unusual representative of spring garlic - its heads, when properly grown, reach 90-115 g, moreover, it is prone to the formation of arrows, which is not typical for summer varieties. As for winter garlic, almost all of its varieties are distinguished by large heads: Sofievsky (90-110 g), Komsomolets (80-110 g), Losevsky (up to 75 g), Yubileiny (up to 80 g), Podmoskovny (from 60 g) and others.

See what specimens you can grow in your summer cottage.

A garden bed for planting winter garlic should be prepared in a month, or at least 2-3 weeks in advance. For spring varieties, it is better to prepare the site in the fall. This is due to the fact that the culture does not really like fresh organic fertilizers, besides, it is not easy to dig up and feed the frozen soil in early spring.

First of all, you need to decide on a place for growing. It should be open, sunny, on a flat surface. If the garden is located in a lowland, it is better to make an elevation (high bed) for the garden bed - this will help to avoid stagnant moisture. It is bad if the garden is located on a slope. In this case, there is a likelihood of soil washing away, which will also not have the best effect on the yield.

Garlic prefers loose sandy loam soil with neutral acidity. If your garden is not very fertile, suitable conditions must be created artificially. Acidic soil should be limed (1 glass of lime / 1 m²). To increase the drainage properties, you need to add sand, peat, sawdust. As a top dressing, humus is introduced (1 bucket / 1 m²), plus droppings 1 l / 1 m² and ash. Instead of droppings, you can use superphosphate (30 g / 1 m²) with potassium salt (20 g / 1 m²).

The soil together with fertilizers should be dug to a depth of 20–25 cm. Then the bed should be leveled and disinfected - sprinkled with a solution of manganese or salt (1 glass / 1 bucket of water). Next, cover the bed with foil and leave it until planting.

Seeds (teeth) also need preparation before planting in the garden. It is very important to choose the healthiest and largest specimens. The preparation of winter varieties consists in disinfecting the teeth with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. The teeth are placed in the liquid for literally 1 minute - this time is enough to destroy fungi and bacteria.

Summer garlic is often stratified (cooled). The teeth are kept in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks, after which they are placed in a damp cloth and germinated. However, it often happens that by the spring the prongs sprout on their own. In this case, they can be immediately planted in the ground.

Planting time depends on the type of crop. Winter garlic is planted in autumn, from late September to mid-October - about 1.5 months before the arrival of constant cold weather. During this time, the teeth will sprout and take root, but the sprouts will not have time to germinate to the surface.

Spring garlic is planted in early spring, immediately after the snow melts - in early or mid-April, depending on the climate. Summer varieties tolerate cold well and are able to germinate at a soil temperature of 6 ° C, moreover, they grow more actively in cold soil, and as the soil warms up, their growth slows down.

The sooner you plant a spring variety, the more chances you have to grow large heads.

There are several simple agronomic techniques for growing large garlic.

For planting winter varieties, you need to choose the time so that the teeth have time to take root before the onset of frost, but do not have time to grow. On average, this time interval falls on the end of September - beginning of October, but for each region it can be different. When sowing a spring variety, it must be borne in mind that the bulb must have time to form before the onset of heat - only in this case, you can count on large heads.

It is not recommended to plant the culture in one place for more than 2 years in a row, and in order to obtain large bulbs, it is advisable to change the planting site every year.

The beds should be placed in a well-sunlit place. Otherwise, small bulbs will grow.

For a crop, neutral acidity and good drainage properties of the soil are very important. In heavy and acidic soil, garlic bulbs will certainly grow small, or even disappear altogether.

For planting, you should choose varieties intended for your region. When buying imported varieties of white garlic, remember that for transportation they are treated with special solutions that suppress root growth, so it is almost impossible to grow good large bulbs from such material.

Some varieties of winter garlic produce arrows with seeds. If they are not removed in time, the plant will send all the juices to the ripening of the seed bulbs, which will affect the size of the heads. It has been noticed that plants with arrows left form heads in half.

Experienced gardeners advise planting slices to a depth of 5–7 cm in order to prevent them from freezing in winter and premature heating in spring. It is known that garlic grows faster in cold temperatures, while bulb growth stops in hot weather.

The optimum distance for planting a crop is considered to be 20 cm between rows, and 8–10 cm between the tines. If the distance is less, the bulbs will grow small.

In the spring, when the snow has melted and the sun has sharply warmed up, a crust forms on the surface of the soil, preventing oxygen from reaching the roots. If the surface is not loosened in time, then the bulbs may lag behind in development.

During its active growth, the plant needs to maintain high soil moisture. While during the ripening period of the heads, on the contrary, high humidity harms it.

Mulch maintains soil moisture and eliminates the need for frequent watering in hot weather. If the summer is hot, it will not be possible to grow large heads without mulch.

During the growing season, the plant should be fed three times. Whatever fertilizer you choose - mineral or organic, it is important not to exceed the amount. If the plants are given a lot of organic matter, then the leaves will begin to turn yellow, and the heads will stop growing. If you feed in excessive amounts of mineral mixtures, the taste and quality of the bulbs will deteriorate.

And the last thing to pay attention to. Garlic is considered a perennial, or rather a three-year-old plant, but most gardeners grow it as an annual. This leads to the fact that over time it becomes smaller - it simply degenerates.

Update your planting material regularly. When planting winter varieties, leave several arrows to obtain seeds, and then grow planting bulbs from them, consisting of one clove. In the third year, a large, full-bodied garlic head can be grown from such a clove.

This video describes and demonstrates a technology for growing large heads of garlic, which has shown itself to be excellent and gives an excellent harvest over the years.

Winter garlic can be found in almost every vegetable garden. He does not need special care, he likes to grow on fertile loamy or sandy loamy neutral soil. Winter garlic is cultivated outdoors everywhere, even in cold, harsh climates.In the article, we will tell you step by step how to grow winter garlic in the open field, how and when to plant it in the fall.

Types and features of winter garlic

Winter garlic tends to produce a more bountiful harvest than spring garlic. They start using it when it is not yet fully ripe, at the beginning of summer. Later, it is determined for storage, but until the next ripening it is easier to preserve spring garlic. There are two types of winter garlic: arrowhead and non-arrowhead. The latter is better stored if it is provided with proper care, it is cleaned on time, it is stored at a low positive temperature until spring.

Winter garlic often pleases gardeners and gardeners with its harvest, the main thing is to choose the right variety, plant it correctly and take care of it.

However, becoming infected with viral diseases, non-shooting winter garlic weakens, degenerates, and cannot be renewed. Therefore, it is less common. Arrowhead winter garlic produces the richest harvests and is more commonly used for food in summer and winter. Harvested in time, fully ripe arrowed garlic is stored for a very long time. With the help of bulbs, it is constantly updated. It does not degenerate.

The cloves grow in the soil, so they can become infected with viruses or fungi. A new plant that grows out of an infected tooth will be infected initially. After a couple of years, it will be impossible to get a good plant, since degeneration will occur. In addition, garlic gets smaller over time. Therefore, the planting material must be renewed every 2-3 years.

As such, garlic has no seeds. Those who think that the bulbs are just seeds are mistaken, but this is wrong. Inside the seeds there is an ovule, which begins to develop after fertilization, and a new plant grows from it. And the bulbs are special organs that are used only during vegetative reproduction. Winter arrowhead garlic, together with flowering, forms airy bulbs, which are called bulbs.

In order to get green feathers, perennial garlic is grown, which does not have bulbs, but has seeds with which it multiplies. Ornamental garlic is also propagated through seeds, but it is not eaten at all, but is grown for the sake of a spectacular look and phytocides, with which this garlic disinfects the air around it. Winter garlic, which is grown for cloves, has no seeds.

When winter garlic is planted in the fall

In open ground before winter, garlic is planted a month before the onset of frost (late September - late November). It depends on the area. The main activities for the care of the crop occur in the spring, when the snow melts, because the new plant begins to grow after the soil warms up. And the cloves should take root before the cold weather, without germinating above the soil surface, otherwise they will be damaged by frost. See also the article: → "Preparing and planting garlic: tips for care and harvesting."

The photo shows what winter garlic looks like, which has already sprouted, there are two types of winter garlic - arrow and non-arrow.

The main difficulty is that you have to predict when the real frosts will come. However, it is roughly known when winter will come - at this time and you need to navigate, paying attention to the days recommended for landing in the lunar calendar.

Preparation of beds and planting material

Winter garlic is planted with single teeth and cloves that have grown from the bulbs. The largest bulbs are grown from large cloves with a firm, intact base. Before planting, the planting material is disassembled into teeth so that the bottom does not have time to dry, and is sorted by size. Small and large teeth are best planted separately. At the same time, small ones - more often. Those that have flaking scales or crumbled bottom are rejected - they are most likely affected by a nematode. Read also the article: → "Effective methods of dealing with a nematode on garlic."

For the improvement of the seed, before winter, they plant one-tooth, which have grown from bulbs, from which not a full-fledged head is grown during the season, but only one large clove, which has all the advantages of its variety. And from these one-tooth, planted in the fall in open ground, next year in the summer they will receive beautiful heads, which consist of many teeth. Thus, the "seeds" will give a full harvest in a couple of years.

Before planting, one-toothed teeth and teeth must be disinfected. To do this, for 25 minutes they are placed in a 1% solution of copper sulfate or for 2 hours in a solution of ash alkali: pour 1 glass of wood ash with 2 liters of water and boil for half an hour. After harvesting pumpkin, cabbage, zucchini, cucumbers, squash, the beds are prepared for garlic. They need to be dug up, added potassium sulfate and superphosphate, compost or humus, watered and left to rest for several weeks.

The main rule of a high-quality and large harvest of winter garlic is to plant it correctly, basically everyone plants this plant with chives.

The soil should settle down so that when the roots grow, there is no movement of the soil. The roots are not very deep, but grow vertically downward. If the soil moves, the roots will have to bend, rising up, and this will have a bad effect on the harvest, and no amount of care can fix this.

Tip # 1. It is advisable to raise the bed by 10 cm so that there is no stagnation of melt water in the spring.

Planting winter garlic

In order for the chives to overwinter well, they must be buried 10-12 cm. The distance between large cloves should be at least 10 cm, between small ones - a little less, since their heads will not grow very large. Between the rows - 15 cm. When preparing the planting grooves, some gardeners fill the bottom with ash or sand so that the teeth do not touch the soil.

It is believed that in this case it will be easier for them to take root. If, before the frost, they nevertheless sprouted, they must be covered with a non-woven cloth or mulched with peat or sawdust mixed with the ground. In the spring it is all cleaned up. Garlic rarely freezes, but it is impossible for it to get wet or snot under the covering material when the soil begins to thaw.

Winter garlic care

The cultivation of winter garlic in the open field does not require special care. It must be watered, fed, if necessary, weeded, loosened the soil. As soon as the snow melts, the beds are fed with a solution of mullein or chicken manure with the addition of superphosphate and potassium salt. If there is no rain, then the plantings should be watered every week. Top dressing can be combined with irrigation. If the soil is not very fertile at the stage of 4 leaves, urea should be added, and when the heads are formed, feed with superphosphate.

Watering should be stopped 20 days before harvesting - this way the crop will be better stored. When they take care of the shooting varieties of winter garlic, the shooters are allowed to grow up to 20 cm, then, if the bulbs are not grown, they are pinched. Arrows are often left on several plants to ripen the airy "seeds" to heal next year's harvest. In order for the heads of garlic to ripen faster, you need to remove the soil from them and leave them open a third.

Usually, winter garlic is more productive, so the harvest will delight in both the amount and size of its fruits.

Winter garlic harvest

From about mid-July, they begin to harvest the garlic. The more precise term depends on the cultivated variety, on the size of the head, on its care, on the climate. The crop should be harvested when the leaves begin to turn yellow and lie down. Being late will not affect the quality of the heads. However, if the ripe heads remain in the soil, the scales will dissolve, the teeth will be exposed and in such a form cannot be stored for a long time. All the garlic cannot ripen at the same time, so the harvest is delayed for several days.

The dug heads, if the weather is dry, remain to dry directly on the garden bed.They can be carried under a roof, but they require fresh air with a breeze. After a week, the crop must be removed indoors and dried so that you can rub the root lobe with your fingers without effort.

Tip # 2. The heads of garlic are stored at a temperature not higher than +3 degrees with an average humidity.

The best varieties of winter garlic

The following varieties are popular among gardeners:

Variety name	Characteristic
Alcor	Arrowhead variety. The heads are mid-season. They are planted most often in the garden. From the moment of planting to the appearance of the first leaves, 87-98 days pass. The length of the leaf is 16-41 cm. The width is 0.7-2.5 cm. The leaf is dark green with a bluish-gray tint. The length of the arrow is 66-102 cm. At the end of the arrow there are large, dense bulbs with 4-5 pink-violet teeth. Head weight 13-36 g. The variety is fruitful. May be sick with yellow dwarfism.
Lyubasha	Arrowhead is winter-hardy, drought-resistant. The luminiferous stem can grow up to 120-150 cm. The length of the dark green leaf is 35-45 cm. The width is 25 mm. The flattened bulb weighs 12-375 g. The number of cloves in the head is 5-9. The weight of a clove is 15-20 g.
Antonnik	Shoots. The heads are mid-season. A dark green leaf with a waxy shade is 34 cm long and 3.7 cm wide. The round head weighs 54-72 g. It has 4-5 white-pink dense teeth, semi-sharp in taste. 1005th yield. The heads are large. The variety is resistant to fusarium.
Hermann	The variety is good to grow in the garden. The heads are mid-season. Shoots. The length of a green leaf with a waxy coating is 60 cm, width is 2.1 cm. The flattened head weighs 42-54 g. It has 6-7 creamy sharp teeth. The variety can be stored for up to 8 months.
Dobrynya	Late darting variety. Ripening period 120-130 days. Leaf length 55 cm, width 2.5 cm. The weight of the round head is 60 g. The number of teeth is 14. Their weight is up to 6 g. They have a light cream color, dense, semi-sharp in taste. The variety is stored for up to 6 months, but the fruits are preserved up to 80%. The heads are large. The variety is fruitful.
Dubkovsky	For growing in the garden. Shooting universal mid-season variety. Ripens in 98-114 days. Green leaf with a weak waxy bloom. The length of the leaves is 34 cm, the width is 1.6 cm. The bulbs are small, airy, pale purple, dense, with 10-12 cloves. Head weight 32 g. Can multiply through aerial bulbs.
Zubrenok	Shooting variety. The dark green leaf is 46 cm long and 3.7 cm wide. The round head weighs 72 g. The head has 6 teeth. They are white, dense, with a semi-sharp taste. The variety is valued for its large heads, yield.
Healer	For growing in the garden. No arrows, early variety. Ripens in 100-108 days. Light green leaves are 43 cm long, up to 2 cm wide. The round-flat head weighs 42 g. It has up to 16 cloves. They taste semi-sharp. The variety can be stored for up to 7 months. But the safety of fruits is up to 60%. High-yielding, transportable, winter-hardy.

In the photo you can see how the beds should look like, how the holes with the planted garlic should be located, then the plant will have enough room for growth and development.

Diseases of winter garlic

Garlic bacteriosis. This disease is caused by putrefactive bacteria that penetrate into undried, poorly ripened heads. If the disease develops rapidly, the heads rot right in the garden. However, most often rot appears during storage. In this case, deepened stripes or sores appear on the teeth, which go up from the bottom. The fabrics become pearlescent yellow. Disease-affected teeth most often root weakly during planting, hibernate poorly.

Rust. It is a fungal disease that affects the leaves. It manifests itself in the form of pads - light yellow in color and slightly convex. Later they turn black. If the rust develops strongly, the leaves dry out prematurely. In warm weather, the disease progresses very quickly. In the cold - it slows down.

White rot. The disease affects garlic at any age during the growing season or during storage. In infected young plants, leaves turn yellow, starting from the top, and die off.Garlic quickly withers and dies. A fluffy white mycelium appears on the scales and roots of the heads, the teeth become watery and rot.

Winter garlic pests

Onion fly. It leaves its larvae at the base of the stalks of garlic. The larvae, while developing, feed on plant sap. From this, the leaves turn yellow. To combat onion fly larvae, you can use a folk remedy: dilute 200 g of salt in a bucket of water and treat the beds with garlic with the resulting solution.

Stem nematode. This is almost the most vicious pest that affects garlic and onions. There are no ways to combat it that provide 100% freedom from pests, because after harvesting they go into the ground and can live in it without food for up to five years. The stems of the affected plants begin to turn yellow and curl, the heads crack and rot. Garlic infected with a nematode must be removed, the acidic soil must be limed. Garlic and onions are not planted on contaminated soil for at least five years. The planting material is heated for 10 hours at a temperature of 48 degrees.

When properly cared for, planted and grown, winter garlic is usually infrequently exposed to disease and pests.

Growing winter garlic is pretty easy. This is one of the plants that is cultivated in almost every vegetable garden. Even if this garlic is not cared for, it will be sown and grown every year. True, growing in such a wild form leads to the fact that the heads grow small and are not stored for long. Read also the article: → “Planting garlic before winter. A new approach ”.

Questions and answers about growing winter garlic

Question number 1. How to distinguish winter garlic from spring garlic?

Winter garlic should be planted before winter, and in spring in spring. They differ in appearance. When comparing the heads of these two types, it is clearly seen that winter garlic has several large cloves in one row. As a rule, there are 4-12 of them. They are located around a solid rod. The teeth are covered with a pink-violet shell.

Spring garlic does not have a stem and there are a lot of small cloves arranged in several rows - about 25. Winter garlic is almost not preserved until spring. It must be dug up in the summer. Part of the crop is to be used as seed. Winter garlic tastes very hot. Spring is consumed all winter, since it does not lose its qualities and does not dry out.

Question number 2. What types of planting material can be used to grow winter garlic?

There are three types of planting material for planting garlic before winter:

• bulbs,
• teeth of the heads,
• one-toothed bulbs that are grown from bulbs.

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Winter garlic turns yellow what to do with what to water? It is difficult to imagine a personal plot without a bed of garlic. For many years, people have been eating garlic, effectively using it as a medicine, and no plant can replace its unique properties.

However, planting chives in the ground is not enough to get a good harvest. Even despite the fact that garlic is unpretentious in growing, its greens can hurt and turn yellow, which negatively affects the growth of the head.

Winter garlic turns yellow what to do what to water

Why does winter garlic turn yellow in spring

Garlic is a vegetable popular in almost all cuisines of the world. This is easily explained by its specific bright taste and composition rich in useful substances. It is eaten raw, seasoned with meat, salads and much more.

You can eat not only onions, but also garlic leaves. Therefore, it is a pity if they turn yellow, dry out and die. One of the first reasons for this trouble is problems when sowing garlic.

How to water winter garlic so that it does not turn yellow

A fairly common reason for yellowing of plant feathers in spring is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, especially for winter varieties that are planted in November-December. Moreover, usually such fertilizer is not applied in the fall, since it is washed out of the soil until spring.

Therefore, if you are faced with the task of how to water, if winter garlic turns yellow, then fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizer or humus diluted in water may be a good solution.

Top dressing of winter garlic in spring

Top dressing of winter garlic in spring is repeated three times:

The first time it is carried out a week after the snow melts. The first feeding at this time serves as a stimulant for the growth of the green mass of the plant. It is permissible to add urea or carbamide to the top dressing.

The time of the second feeding is 14 days after the first one. Now, winter garlic needs to be fed with phosphorus and potassium, because it's time for the head to form. These components do not decompose quickly, therefore, fertilizers for winter garlic are applied in advance in the form of a solution.

Winter garlic is fed for the third time in early June. This is not quite early spring, but this top dressing is considered the third spring. Now it is important to make sure that the plant does not receive nitrogen. Otherwise, shooting will begin, and the culture will not form large heads.

It is good to feed a winter plant in spring with ash as a potash fertilizer. And they do it during the third feeding.

When is it better to plant garlic in spring or autumn

Most experienced gardeners do just that, because only winter garlic will have a high yield. If you didn't manage to plant it in the fall, you still have a chance to do it in early spring. Of course, the spring harvest of garlic is different from the winter harvest.

But this is not the main thing, because with the onset of spring you will have a lot of work in the garden, and, as always, there is not enough time for everything. That is why it is advisable not to postpone this part of the work until the spring time, but it is best to plant the garlic in the fall.

When to plant winter garlic in the ground

The practice of planting garlic in the first decade of November is dangerous, especially in years with early and cold winters, when a significant part of the cloves, not having time to take root, die.

If some of the winter garlic is not planted in the fall and the bulbs are well preserved, it can be planted in the spring. Cultivation success depends both on the properties of the variety or local form, as well as on the storage temperature and planting time.

Most winter varieties, when planted in spring, form a single-toothed bulb. Some form a bulb, divided into cloves, but smaller, as in the autumn planting, and a one-tooth.

More bulbs differentiated into cloves are obtained in the case of cold storage at temperatures from -5 to + 4 ° C and the earliest planting.

A delay in planting leads to the massive formation of the one-toothed beetle, and storage during the winter at room temperature can lead to the vegetation of plants until late autumn, but usually without the formation of bulbs.

Do I need to soak garlic before planting

Do not soak garlic for planting in the fall. Such a procedure is intended for the early germination of the plant, and garlic does not need this at all for the winter and will only harm or lead to the fact that the entire crop will simply freeze out.

In autumn, the soil is quite wet and this is enough for the garlic to develop roots. With planting garlic in the fall, it is better, of course, not to delay. It is worth planting in early autumn, and it is better to plant large heads.

But as for soaking garlic (cloves of garlic) before planting, it is better to carry out this procedure all the same in order to avoid rot and unwanted diseases.

Garlic pests and diseases are another reason for its yellowing

Speaking about pests and diseases that cause the appearance of yellow leaves on many varieties of garlic, one cannot fail to mention the following:

• Fusarium is a fungal disease that develops due to excess moisture at a fairly high air temperature, dense soil and lack of plant nutrition;
• downy mildew - a disease that affects plants grown in conditions of high humidity and relatively high air temperatures;
• onion fly - a pest that infects garlic leaves;
• stem nematode is a pest worm that can live in the soil for a long time and lay eggs inside the plant.

Freezing winter garlic

Causes. Occurs in spring with returnable spring frosts. Garlic shoots withstand short-term temperature drop to -2-3 ° C well. If the frost is strong and prolonged, then the leaves freeze.

In addition, garlic is very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature. The tops can freeze when the difference between day and night temperatures is more than 14-15 ° C. Frosts damage plants in the germination phase and at the initial stage of tops growing.

Signs of damage. The leaves turn yellow, lose their elasticity, droop. If the stem is tacked by the frost, then it acquires a yellow-green color, the outer tissues, together with the lower leaves, gradually dry out.

Garlic immunity preparations

Having considered all the reasons and deciding why the leaves of garlic turn yellow in spring, what to do in this case can be assumed - to understand the plant's immunity, to help it adapt after an unsuccessful wintering.

Organic farming preparations have long been proven to be the best, and by using Ekoberin or HB-101 it is possible to restore the ecological balance and immunity of the plant.

Dissolving the funds in water, according to the instructions for the preparations, the garden bed can be watered or sprayed.

Prevention of yellow garlic

Prevention of diseases of garlic is a properly designed crop rotation. The culture is planted in the old place no earlier than 3 years later. During this time, the spores of bacteria and fungi in the soil lose their harmfulness.

Correct agricultural technology is also a prevention of chlorosis, because serious violations can become the cause of yellowing:

Shallow landing leading to freezing. The feathers do not turn yellow at the ends, but grow back chlorotic.

Premature landing. Early planted spring garlic falls under spring frosts. Winter varieties in the middle lane are planted not earlier than October, trying to guess the planting date so that the clove has time to take root in the soil, but does not throw out the leaves.

Soil acidification. Onions prefer neutral PH. In overly acidic soils, it is necessary to add deoxidizers - lime, ash, dolomite, chalk, eggshells, cement.

Winter garlic turns yellow what to do with what to water video

Winter garlic turns yellow what to do with what to water.

Where to buy seeds and seedlings with delivery

The Scientific and Production Association "Sady Rossii" has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years.

In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory for microclonal reproduction of plants has been created.

The main task of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, bulbs, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post.

We are waiting for you for shopping at the NPO Sady Rossii.

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All about the correct cultivation of spring and winter garlic in the open field, about what to do if it turns yellow in spring, what to water and how to feed, you will learn from this guide. The information will be especially useful for beginners, as well as for experienced gardeners. Growing garlic usually does not cause big problems, but for a good harvest, you must follow the rules of planting, care and feeding.

What is the difference between spring garlic and winter garlic

Gardeners know that there is winter and spring garlic, and what are the differences between them you will see from the table and photo:

There are more teeth - from 12 to 30 pieces, but they are smaller	An arrow sticks out in the middle of the bottom, which is surrounded by 4-12 large cloves
The bulbs are smaller and have more scales	Bulbs and cloves are larger and more productive
The teeth on the bottom of the bulb are located in a spiral from the periphery to the center, with the outer ones being larger	In the middle there is a thick and hard rod, around which the teeth
Planted in early spring	Planted in autumn
It ripens in September, it is laid for winter storage and consumed until the new harvest	Can only be stored until February

Winter garlic is more common, but in the northern regions they prefer to grow spring garlic, since the plants under winter planting can freeze out.

Garlic varieties with photos and descriptions

Most often, garlic is propagated by chives, of which there are from 4 to 12 in each bulb, and sometimes more.

Do not use grocery store garlic as a planting material. It may not be suitable for growing in your area, and in most cases it has been treated with special substances that inhibit growth. It's best to buy garlic for planting from a trusted online seed store or local nursery.

Garlic varieties are divided into two groups:

1. Shooters - they have a flowering shoot coming out of the center of the bulb - an arrow ending in an inflorescence. It consists of bulbs (air bulbs) and flower buds, which subsequently dry out without forming seeds. A sign of ripening in them is the yellowing of the leaves and arrows. All arrowed garlic varieties are considered winter garlic.
2. Non-shooting - in such plants only leaves develop during the growing season. These varieties can be both winter and spring.

The best varieties of garlic for planting before winter

For podzimny planting, varieties with high winter hardiness are recommended.

Shooters

Dubkovsky is a medium-ripening variety - 98-114 days pass from germination to harvest. Productivity 5.6 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 30 g, round-flat, dense. There are 10-12 cloves in an onion. The taste is spicy. Recommended for growing in the Krasnodar Territory, Kurgan, Rostov and Pskov regions.

Jubilee Gribovskiy is the most common variety of the middle term - from germination to drying of leaves 83-122 days pass. The yield is high - an average of 12.5 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs of 20-30 g, round-flat, with large cloves. The taste is very spicy. The variety is relatively winter hardy, resistant to drought, major pests and diseases, and adapts well to different weather conditions. For cultivation in the northern and central regions of Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Ukraine.

Otradnensky is a mid-late variety - it takes 95-135 days from germination to drying of leaves, universal use. The yield is very high - 12-13.5 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs over 30 g, round-flat, each with up to eight cloves. The variety is very winter hardy. Good for growing in the Primorsky Territory and Mordovia.

Sail - a variety of medium ripening - time from germination to harvest: 96-108 days. Yields a yield of 6 to 10 kg from 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 30–47 g, round-flat, dense, well stored, they contain 7–10 cloves. The taste is spicy. The variety is winter-hardy. Recommended for growing in Voronezh and Nizhny Novgorod regions, Ukraine, Stavropol Territory and Kazakhstan.

Siberian - medium term - from germination to harvesting 81-113 days, universal. Yields on average 5.8 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 20-30 g, round-flat, with medium-sized cloves (4-5 pcs.). The taste is spicy and semi-sharp. Suitable for growing in Novosibirsk, Kemerovo, Omsk and Tomsk regions.

Non-Shotgun

Novosibirskiy is a variety of medium early ripening period - 68–82 days pass from germination to harvesting, universal purpose. Productivity 5-6 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs weighing up to 30 g, round, well stored. There are 9-13 cloves in the onion. The taste is semi-sharp, delicate. Recommended for Novosibirsk and Kemerovo regions.

Saki - an early variety - from germination to yellowing of leaves takes 100-115 days, universal purpose. Yield 4,2 kg per 10 m2 Bulbs weighing 20 g, flat and round-flat, with wide cone-shaped cloves. There are 11-13 of them in the onion. The taste is spicy.Well suited for growing in Crimea.

Garlic varieties for planting in spring

Among the spring varieties, a particularly large role belongs to the numerous local forms, which are usually very well preserved. Among them:

• Danilovsky (variety of the Yaroslavl region).
• Bryansk, Ufimsky (varieties of Bashkortostan).
• Cheboksary (grade of Chuvashia), etc.

Garlic varieties quickly degenerate, so they need to be changed periodically.

What soil is needed for garlic

Garlic grows well on fertile loose light sandy loam or loamy soil, in non-flooded areas, with sufficient sunlight; tree-shaded areas are not suitable for this crop. It does not tolerate either excessive moisture or prolonged drying out of the soil.

It is good if the bed is located on a sunny hillock and is protected from the wind by a fence, trees or shrubs. In spring, water should not stagnate there.

Before planting, the soil is dug up, loosened, the roots of perennial weeds are selected and carefully leveled.

When digging, humus (1-2 buckets) and wood ash (2-4 kg) are added per 1 m2. Instead of ash, you can take superphosphate and potassium salt (15-20 g each).

The acidic soil is limed. The garden bed is prepared two weeks before planting, as it should settle a little so that the garlic cloves do not go deep into the ground.

What to soak garlic before planting

Before planting, the garlic is treated with a weak solution of trace elements (one tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water) or infusion of birch wood ash: 1 tablespoon of ash is thoroughly stirred in 1 liter of hot water and the garlic is soaked overnight.

To avoid the most common disease of garlic - downy mildew, the cloves are heated for 12 hours at 40 C before planting and treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid.

Growing garlic outdoors

The bulbs and chives in winter garlic are larger and more productive than in spring garlic, but the latter, due to the many scales, is stored longer. Better to grow both forms outdoors.

When and how to plant winter garlic

Chives of winter garlic are planted before winter after harvesting vegetables
cultures. The largest and healthiest bulbs are chosen for planting - without a single spot. Small teeth are discarded, only large ones are planted. It is very important to do it on time.

• In central Russia, planting dates are usually recommended from September 15–20 to October 5, several weeks before the onset of stable November cold weather.
• Winter garlic is planted in the central regions of the Non-Black Earth Zone in the third decade of September.
• In the Moscow region, the best planting time is from September 25 to October 5.
• In the northern regions, the dates are moved to earlier ones, in the southern regions - to later ones.

Such planting dates are due to the fact that the cloves must take root well before the onset of stable winter cold weather.

Following such advice, amateur vegetable growers are often mistaken if in late September - early October, after cold weather, a relatively warm weather suddenly sets in. And then not only the roots, but also the shoots begin to grow actively, and the subsequent November frosts destroy them.

With a delay in planting, the teeth do not have time to take root until the end of October and hibernate poorly. In the spring, such seedlings are sparse and frail at best. To avoid mistakes, it is advisable to know a long-term and reliable weather forecast.

Planting scheme for winter garlic

Teeth of the same size are planted in two lines. The landing pattern is as follows:

• the distance between the rows is at least 20 cm;
• between cloves in a row - 8–10 cm;

Planting depth depends on the type of soil: on light soils, it is 8-10 cm from the top of the clove to the soil surface, on heavy soils - 5-6 cm. Shallow planting of garlic can lead to the fact that when the temperature drops to minus 15 C, a significant part of the plants may die.

For each square meter, you need 50 cloves, or 300 g of garlic (6-7 heads).

Although garlic is a cold-resistant crop, in November-December, the snow "coat" is still too unreliable and thin, so it is better to insulate the garden bed by sprinkling it with peat, well-rotted manure or loose compost soil with a layer of 2 cm.

Such mulching will do a good job in early spring, as the soil will warm up faster. In addition, mulch will keep the soil surface from crusting and help to retain the moisture that garlic needs so much. As a result, this technique alone noticeably stimulates the development of young plants, increasing the yield by 10-15%.

How to grow winter garlic from bulbs (air bulbs)

Usually, air bulbs are used to obtain planting material - sevka. One or two days before harvesting the garlic, the arrows are cut off, leaving 2–3 cm above the bulb, tied into sheaves and left under a canopy for 25–30 days.

If you plant bulbs before winter, next year they will give single-tooth bulbs (sets), which will be the planting material.

Before sowing the bulbs - air bulbs are separated from the arrows by shaking, then calibrated. The smallest ones (less than 2 mm in diameter) are not suitable for sowing, as they produce very small single-toothed bulbs. It will take three years to grow them into bulbs that can be divided into cloves.

Bulbs are sown in the third decade of September, like chives, on the ridges with lines, between which a distance of 10-15 cm is left. On one square meter of the ridge, 8-10 g of bulbs are sown to a depth of 3-4 cm. Crops are mulched with peat or humus layer 2 cm.

The next year after the emergence of seedlings, the plants are fed with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers: 10-15 g of ammonium nitrate and 5 g of potassium salt per 1 m2. The crops are watered, the aisles are shallowly loosened, the weeds must be removed.

When the leaves turn yellow and dry, the plants are dug in, the single-toothed bulbs are selected from the soil, dried and prepared for autumn planting.

One-toothed onion sets are planted in the same way as chives. In the second year, normal arrowhead plants and bulbs are obtained, dividing into cloves.

Growing garlic from bulbs (how to rejuvenate garlic) - video

Aerial bulbs can also be sown in spring. To do this, they are stored in a cold (2–5 ° С) or warm (18–20 ° С) room in unmilled sheaves. This way they are better preserved. Early spring sowing of aerial bulbs after cold storage is almost the same as for winter sowing.

After storage in a warm (18–20 ° С) and early spring sowing, well-developed plants grow: their growing season is longer than that of plants under winter sowing and cold storage. They give large sets, but later ripening.

If you didn't have time to sow garlic in early spring, you can do it in June. In this case, the plants do not form a bulb and continue to grow until the onset of winter. After overwintering in the soil, the next year they grow and develop in the same way as the arrowhead garlic plants grown from the cloves, but produce a smaller bulb.

How to plant spring garlic in spring

Two to three weeks before planting spring garlic in the open ground in the spring, the storage temperature of the planting material is reduced from 18-20 to 2 C. Immediately before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and the largest of them are selected.

After preparing the soil, it is carefully leveled with a rake, longitudinal grooves are made, the distance between their centers is 20 cm, between the cloves - 5-6 cm.

Planting depth is 2-3 cm. The teeth should be planted in the center of the groove, bottom down. Seedlings begin to appear in 13-15 days.

Outdoor garlic care

Caring for garlic plants consists in systematic loosening to a shallow depth (4-5 cm) so as not to damage the root system, in killing weeds, watering and feeding.

How to water garlic

During the period of active growth of garlic plants, the soil should always be moist.The lack of a sufficient amount of moisture reduces the yield, reduces the number of cloves in the bulbs.

Spring garlic is more moisture-loving than winter garlic and needs watering. Watering is necessary until mid-June. But garlic also does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil.

How and what to feed garlic after winter so that it does not turn yellow

The leaves of winter garlic begin to grow very early, when the snow has not yet melted everywhere. However, gardeners often see pale yellow and frail instead of bright green young shoots. The reason lies in insufficient plant nutrition. So that the garlic planted before winter does not turn yellow, in the spring water your plantings with a solution of ammonium nitrate (dissolve the fertilizer matchbox in a bucket of water).

Do the second feeding around mid-May. At this time, it is customary to feed the plants with a mixture of mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt (10, 20 and 10 g per 1 m2, respectively).

How to water the garlic in spring so that it does not turn so yellow if you want to do without the "chemistry"? In this case, it is better to use organic fertilizers for feeding, for example, a weekly infusion of fresh chicken manure (compared to mullein, it contains more nitrogen).

If the plantings dry up, water the soil abundantly, starting from the third decade of May and throughout June. The earth is periodically loosened with a hoe, I weed the weeds, preventing their regrowth.

The last, third, time they feed the garlic at the end of June, when the bulbs are finally formed. Summer nutrition is an infusion of mullein (1 liter of fertilizer is diluted in a bucket of water) or an infusion of weeded weeds growing on a compost heap, in the same concentration. You can limit yourself to feeding with superphosphate (5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Since this fertilizer is poorly soluble in water, it is preliminarily boiled for 30 minutes in a mug of water, stirring often.

How and what to feed spring garlic

Spring garlic shoots begin to appear 13-15 days after planting. With mass seedlings, the soil surface must be loosened and fertilized with nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, 15 g of ammonium nitrate is dissolved in 10 liters of water and evenly poured into the grooves at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m2. When the liquid is absorbed, the grooves are closed with dry soil.

The second feeding with nitrogen and potassium (potassium chloride) fertilizers should be given in the phase of formation of four leaves at the rate of 20 g per 10 l of water.

The third top dressing - potassium and phosphorus (superphosphate) fertilizers - in the phase of the seventh leaf - at the rate of 20 g per 10 l of water, solution consumption 10 l per 1 m2. After each feeding, the garlic is watered.

Tips on how to grow large heads of garlic

Around the twentieth of June, garlic throws out flower arrows, at the end of which air bulbs (bulbs) develop. A few of the most powerful arrows that appear first can be left for seeds. The rest are gradually removed at the stage of formation, when they are good as vitamin greens for salads and canning.

Timely breaking of the arrows at the very base, from the leaf axils, increases yield and allows you to grow large garlic.

Do I need to tie the garlic after breaking the arrows? Tying the garlic arrows in a knot, practiced by some growers, does nothing, since the development of the arrows does not stop, and a good half of the nutrients do not enter the bulb.

Harvesting and storing the harvest of garlic

Stop watering the garlic a few weeks before harvest. To determine if the garlic is ready to harvest, inspect several bulbs by thoroughly cleaning the dirt.

When to dig out garlic planted in the winter

A sign of the ripening of garlic is the cessation of the formation of new leaves. In non-streaked varieties, the leaves turn yellow, in those with shooters, the caps on the bulbs crack, dense wrappers form on the bulbs, the head becomes ribbed.

As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry, it means that the garlic is ripe.Now it is impossible to hesitate with cleaning - if there is a delay, the teeth break the wrapper and crumble, such heads will be unsuitable for long-term storage.

Garlic is harvested in dry weather. Ripe bulbs are dug out with a pitchfork, carefully picked out of the soil and laid out in rows for several days to dry in the sun.

Then the roots and stem are cut with pruning shears, leaving about 1.5 cm. If the stem is shorter, you can damage the hard scales of the cloves, and then the garlic will not be well stored.

When to harvest spring garlic

Depending on the variety and weather conditions, spring garlic ripens at the end of August or September. The main signs of ripeness:

• lodging of tops;
• drying of the lower leaves;
• yellowing of the upper leaves;
• dying off of roots (they become thin, dark).

Choose dry weather for cleaning. It is impossible to delay harvesting, as in rainy weather the garlic forms new roots and germinates. The bulbs are dug in with a shovel or pitchfork and picked from the soil. Dry them in the air or indoors until the leaves are completely dry.

Then the bulbs are cleaned of the remnants of adhered earth, the roots and the false stem are cut off 4–5 cm above the shoulders. After that, the garlic is finally dried (it should rustle during tedding) and put into storage.

How to store garlic in the winter at home to keep it dry

It is better to process the main part of the crop immediately and make preparations for the winter. The rest is stored until spring in a room where in winter it keeps a rather low, but positive temperature with low air humidity. The prepared heads are placed in boxes, baskets or mesh bags, they can be woven into braids.

At a temperature of 1-3 C, they will remain juicy and fresh for a long time, and until spring they will not germinate or dry out.

Experienced growers know how to properly store garlic at home at room temperature. There are two reliable methods suitable for a city apartment:

1. Well-dried heads of garlic are folded into a canvas bag, tied and put into a plastic bag, leaving it open.
2. Another method - you need to take a jar or a saucepan, pour a 2-3 cm layer of salt on the bottom, then put the heads of garlic and fill it with salt again, etc. The top row must be covered with salt, but it must not be wet.

What can be planted after garlic next year

Garlic can be returned to its original place only after four to five years. As an exception, this is possible, but only if an infection has not accumulated in the soil during the first year of cultivation, which is easy to check if you carefully examine the heads of garlic that have grown there. If he is completely healthy, without the slightest signs of any lesions, you can take a chance and plant garlic in the same place for the next year, but not more.

It is undesirable to plant onions after garlic, since these crops are affected by the same diseases.

Here's what you can plant after garlic:

• cucumbers;
• zucchini;
• pumpkin;
• early harvested root vegetables and early cabbage;
• all legumes and greens.