How to grow a vine at home?

Usually indoor plants take up window sills or other places in the apartment where there is a lot of sunlight. But there are types of indoor perennials that can be used to decorate the walls in rooms, dark corners, or to complement the greenery in the house with the help of these indoor plants - vines.

Hoya - houseplant

You can grow blooming vines or decorative vines with beautiful foliage, dwarf or huge in size at home. Most of these climbing perennials grow quite quickly, have a good decorative appearance, and also do not require complex maintenance. Photos of different types of such vines will be presented below.

Origin

Most of these climbing plants are native to rainforests.where the weather is warm but humid for most of the year. Many of them can be grown at home, as they grow well, can propagate by cuttings, and also do not require special conditions of maintenance and care.

Indoor vines

Description

Although these plants have a lot in common, the varieties of lianas differ from each other. Their shoots can be thick but flexible enough, or grassy. In many vines, the main stems become woody over time. They can also be annuals or perennials, shed their foliage annually, or remain green for 12 months of the year.

Those climbing plants that are grown at home are predominantly evergreen perennials. And this is natural, because at home they do not grow plants that stand without foliage for half a year. Also, in indoor conditions, flexible or lignified vines are not grown, but only herbaceous.

Epipremnums

Such perennials are also divided into classes - depending on how they are attached to the supports during growth. They are kornelazymi - if attached to the supports with their rhizomes, or curly - if they cling to lateral shoots or tendrils. There is a third type of such plants - leaning, which are attached to the supports with suction cups.

Most often, indoor plant lovers grow climbing perennials, because they can be twisted around various supports to give the plant the best shape.

There are many climbing perennials that are happy to grow at home:

• Clerodendrum;
• Ivy;
• Bougainvillea;
• Passionflower;
• Monstera;
• Hoya and a number of other equally beautiful lianas.

The root system of kornelazykh emits a special adhesive mass, with the help of which they are attached to any surface (even to a smooth one). The main representatives of this type are ficuses, ivy and selenicereus.

In leaning species, special thorns, hooks, and also special pubescence grow. It is these natural "adaptations" that allow the vines to be attached to the supports.

Caring for indoor species of vines

Despite some difference between the varieties of these plants, they have the following features in common:

1. lighting should only be diffused;
2. air humidity should be at least 75 - 80%.

Direct sunlight falling on the foliage of these perennials (or annuals) leaves burns on it, and the plants begin to hurt. And when the air humidity is below 70%, the foliage will dry, turn yellow and fall off. And as a result, instead of a beautiful liana with decorative foliage or beautiful flowers, there will be a naked shoot with several leaves in the house.

Clerodendrum

Therefore, the main thing that should be provided for such perennials is special lighting and high humidity in the room.

The nuances of lighting these plants

Most of these indoor perennials like shady or semi-shady places in the apartment, and some feel best in the shade. But some species like bright, but diffused light. These are plants with multi-colored variegated foliage:

• Scindapsus;
• Cissus;
• Syngonium;
• Ceropegia.

For these evergreen vines, bright light is simply necessary so that the color of the foliage does not fade, but you should not allow the sun's rays to burn it. Usually the windows are covered with tulle or other material that diffuses sunlight. Vines should be regularly rotated around their axis so that enough light is delivered to the entire plant evenly. Otherwise, these perennials will stretch towards the light in one direction - such a plant will grow crooked.

Scindapsus

For rooms with little light, it is better to grow different varieties of ivy there:

1. Monstera;
2. Antarctic Cissus;
3. Rhombic Roicissus.

The main nuances of watering, humidification and temperature conditions

All these parameters are interconnected, therefore, they are combined into one subsection. The following conditions are considered ideal for normal growth and flowering of these "pets":

• moderate air temperature;
• regular ventilation of the room;
• high air humidity (about 80%).

In summer, the room temperature should be around 20⸰С. If the room is hotter, then you should regularly spray the foliage with water at a temperature of + 20⸰С. But in winter, the vines need to be kept away from heating devices, and the air temperature during this period should not be higher than +15 + 16⸰С.

In winter, you should also spray the plant, but with warmer water.

Water these tropical perennials in the morning or evening.Spraying is carried out at the same hours. The next watering should be done when the top of the soil is dry. The plant should not be overmoistened, besides, the soil in the pot will stay hydrated longer under the large head of the vegetative mass of the plant.

Irrigation water should be at room temperature, otherwise the roots may start to rot.

If the apartment is too hot and dry in winter, then it is better not to bring these evergreen perennials into the house - they will not feel comfortable, they will start to hurt and dry out.

Monstera

Fresh air is necessary for all types of vines. They are very afraid of drafts, so it is better to place these perennials near the wall so that the fresh air does not chill the plants.

And do not forget about maintaining high humidity throughout the year. In addition to regular spraying, the plant should be given a shower every 30 days. After all, dust from foliage is difficult to remove with a wet rag or sponge, so you have to rinse it off with running water. Such an event is also a prevention against the appearance of a spider mite.

The shower should be warm and the water jet weak, so as not to damage foliage and shoots.

Vine transplant

Usually in specialized stores, vines are sold in temporary containers, so they should be transplanted at home. But this should not be done immediately - within 10 - 14 days it is necessary to give this perennial the opportunity to acclimatize in a new place. In order not to damage the root system, it is better to transfer the vine from one container to another along with the earth. You also need to monitor when transplanting so that shoots and foliage do not break. Usually these plants are transplanted together so as not to damage either their roots or the aerial part.

Antarctic Cissus

The soil for planting these plants should be nutritious and loose enough, and the pH should be in the region of 4.5 - 5.5. You can buy ready-made soil mixture in a specialized store ("Saintpaulia", "Begonia" or "Cactus-plus"), or prepare it yourself. To do this, mix in equal parts sod, humus and leafy soil.

Some types of vines with their foliage completely cover the soil in the pot, but it must be periodically loosened. You can use a long, thin stick for this.

During the summer period, the plant should be fed with organic matter and complex mineral fertilizers. Such feeding will allow vines to grow and develop faster. You can use a solution of cow manure as a fertilizer (10 parts of water should be taken for 1 part of manure). Usually, fertilizing with organic matter and mineral fertilizers is alternated.

Reproduction of domestic perennials

With age, many of these domestic green pets begin to shed their foliage, leaving leaves only in the upper part of the plant. In this case, the top with leaves should be cut off for subsequent rooting, and the old plant is cut off, leaving only half of the stem. Places of cuts should be treated with charcoal or potassium permanganate solution. The cut vine will begin to branch more strongly. This is how the rejuvenation of these "pets" is carried out.

Syngonium

The top of the plant is placed in water to which a root growth enhancer can be added. As soon as the vine grows roots, it can be planted in a permanent place in a new flowerpot. Some plant species have aerial roots, so they can be planted in pots right away.

Some types of lianas can be propagated by seeds, for example, Passiflora. But most varieties of these plants are best not propagated in this way.

You can also propagate perennials and dividing the bush.

Watch also a video on the topic:

Similar articles

Nowadays, vines are quite common indoor plants. This curly green has many species and belongs to various botanical genera. But they all have one thing in common - a way of being.

General information

Many are accustomed to the fact that liana is an indoor flower, but it also has species that grow in the wild. They just need to take root and find support so that their flexible shoots begin to develop rapidly. They can rise to a height of 25 m or weave a real horizontal carpet from their lush greenery.

I must say that lianas get along well enough with other plants, such as conifers. In order to climb up or braid any surface, they use special devices such as antennae, suction cups, adventitious roots or hooks. Some vines are devoid of such attachment organs, therefore, their stems are formed in such a way that they can twine around a support. In addition, they are able to lean on it with lateral leaves or branches, as well as thorns, needles or thorns.

Types of vines

These plants are so diverse that some can amaze with their exotic flowers, while others are deprived of them, but they can delight the eye with the widest range of leaf colors. Now on the planet there are more than 2 thousand species of vines that belong to different families.

Indoor lianas (photos are presented) are divided into three types: deciduous and evergreen, perennial and annual, woody and herbaceous. They are also classified according to the method of attachment to surfaces. For example, some plants do this with suckers, tendrils, thorns, etc.

The most common climbers are chlorophytum, ivy, philodendron, bougainvillea. Indoor flowering vines, such as stephanotis, clerodendrum, passionflower, rhombic roicissus, bellflower, wax ivy and others, with proper care, will delight you with their beauty for a long time.

Distribution area

In nature, such plants can be found in many parts of our planet. Among them there are even palms (rattan), ferns (Japanese ligodium) and cacti (large-flowered selenicereus). Such well-known spices as vanilla and pepper are fruits of the same vines prepared in a special way.

33% of all rainforests are composed of these amazing plants. There are about 2 thousand species of the most exotic and original loaches here. I must say that it is from tropical species that those plants that we know as indoor vines originated (photo). We associate the names of loaches, such as beans or grapes, with tasty and healthy foods. European forests, however, consist of only 2% of vines. In temperate climates, there are about 200 species of this life form.

Many lianas grow in the subtropical forests of the Caucasus, in the Mediterranean climate of the Crimean peninsula, and even in the Ussuri taiga of the Far East. Nowadays, vines are used to decorate apartments and household plots, numerous parks and squares. And how elegant they look in the gardens! Decorative vines are used to decorate verandas and gazebos, arches and pergolas, retaining and trellis walls, as well as fences and other low-expressive structures.

General recommendations

Before you start indoor vines flowers at home, you need to correctly determine their location. It is very important that the plants are not crowded, and all their leaves can breathe freely. In addition, you need to think about the supports and the space where the shoots will grow. Vines correct such "walks" with the help of numerous devices that can be purchased at any flower shop. These are various grates, stands, wire structures, baskets, hanging pots, ropes, etc.

The native climate of the lianas is very warm and humid. Therefore, for their good growth, the temperature in the room should be approximately 20-25 ⁰С. It should also be well lit, since the variegated indoor liana loses its bright color in the shade. But at the same time, direct sunlight can harm the plant.Drafts and dry air act negatively on it. The rapid growth of vines will be facilitated by periodic loosening of the soil in the pot. This must be done to a depth of no more than 1.5 cm and closer to the walls of the flowerpot so as not to damage the root system.

Plant transplant

Most often, flowers are sold in stores in temporary pots. Therefore, if the indoor vine was bought in such a container, then it must be transplanted within one to two weeks. In this case, the plant is passed over directly with a clod of earth, so as not to injure its roots. This must be done with extreme caution, as long shoots can be broken.

The soil for vines should be light, but fertile, with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction. For this purpose, a mixture of leaf, turf and humus soil is perfect. You can also use a ready-made mixture, for example, "Cactus-plus", "Begonia" or "Saintpaulia".

Peculiarities

These indoor flowers are considered unpretentious plants, but still each species has its own preferences. For example, the climbing philodendron loves bright lighting, but cannot stand the sun's rays falling on it. If the room is dark, its leaves are strongly stretched. This plant cannot be exhibited on an open balcony even in summer, as it is afraid of drafts.

Indoor vine chlorophytum crested requires transplants. The fact is that its roots grow rapidly and begin to rest against the walls of the pot. Sometimes the tips of the leaves dry out in chlorophytum, which indicates a lack of mineral fertilizers in the soil. In addition, it can mean a lack of space for its rapidly growing roots.

Perhaps the most unpretentious of all is ivy. This indoor vine, the care of which is quite simple and boils down to the fact that its too briskly growing stems have to be constantly cut off. To give the plant the desired shape, you can use flower grids or special bamboo sticks. When using these tools, care must be taken not to damage its root system.

Lighting

As mentioned earlier, variegated indoor vines (photo), whose names are ceropegia, cissus, scindapsus or syngonium, love light, but many of these plants prefer either partial shade or slight shading. When direct sunlight hits the leaves, burns form on them, from which brown spots appear.

In order for the plant to be proportional and receive sufficient lighting from all sides, it must be turned from time to time, otherwise it will forever remain lopsided. If you need to decorate a dark room with flowers, then indoor vines, the names of which are Roicissus, Monstera or Antarctic Cissus, are suitable for this.

Temperature control, ventilation, humidification and watering

All of the above parameters are somehow related to each other. The ideal conditions for vines are regular ventilation, humid air, moderate watering and a comfortable temperature.

The room where the plant is located should not be too dry. If the heating system in the apartment overheats the air, it will begin to ache and wither before our eyes. It should be remembered that vines like fresh air, but also do not forget about their fear of drafts. The best option would be to place the flowers against the wall so that no air will blow on them.

As for the temperature regime, the liana houseplant will feel comfortable in winter at + 16 ⁰С. If the room is cooler, then you will have to turn on the heater, but it is not recommended to put it next to the flower. In the warm season, the air temperature should not be higher than 20-23 ⁰С. When the summer heat sets in, the plant is sprayed with cool water, and in winter with warm water.

Over time, a coating of dust forms on the leaves, which is rather difficult to remove. In fact, this problem can be solved very simply - it is enough to arrange a shower for the plants once a month.Otherwise, spider mites can settle on it. The water in the shower should be barely warm, and the pressure of the water should be made not too strong, so as not to break the shoots and leaves.

Indoor vines are recommended to be watered either in the morning or in the evening and only when the topsoil dries out. Plants are sprayed in the same manner. In extreme heat, this procedure can be done 2 times a day. In this case, you cannot use cold water, as the loach root will get sick and begin to rot. The plant should not be overly moisturized either. Under dense foliage in the ground, water lingers longer.

Pruning and feeding

Lianas that have curvy shapes need to periodically cut off the top above the eye. Most often this is done in the spring, thus getting rid of a third or half of the crown. After this procedure, the places of the cuts are sprinkled with charcoal powder.

Top dressing is necessary during the period of active growth of loaches. It is carried out once every 2 weeks in the evening, fertilizing the soil with a composition containing potassium and nitrogen. It is not recommended to feed recently transplanted or weakened plants, they need to be given the opportunity to get stronger a little. When applying fertilizers, it is necessary to ensure that they never fall on the leaves, as this is fraught with the appearance of burns.

Formation

Liana is an indoor flower, so it should serve as an interior decoration. The main thing here is not to miss the moment and give the growing loach the right direction, as well as shape its exterior. To do this, you need to purchase or make yourself a wall or pot support. Of course, a plant can form by itself, climbing up a wall or a rack, but it will be better if the owner takes care of its formation. Those branches that need to be split open are pinched in the area of ​​the apical shoot. After that, the lateral processes begin to break through the plant.

In order to obtain a long main lash, it is constantly wrapped around the installed support in the desired direction and carefully fixed. Indoor liana, such as passionflower, crawls on its own using antennae. You can control the direction of its advance by removing unnecessary mustache.

Reproduction and rejuvenation

Many types of indoor loaches, as they mature, begin to shed their lower leaves, and most often this occurs after winter. As a result, there is one naked whip with a small bunch of greenery at the end. In this case, the vine needs to be rejuvenated. This is done in this way: the apical stalk is cut off along with the leaves and rooted, and the old plant is shortened by almost half so that it begins to branch more strongly. After that, the damaged areas are treated with a weak solution of manganese. The cut apical stalk is placed in water, and it quickly takes root. Indoor vines, such as ivy, have aerial roots so they can be planted immediately in the ground.

Loaches reproduce not only vegetatively, but also by seeds. For example, passionflower. But this breeding option is not suitable for all plants. Sometimes vines are planted in such a way as dividing a bush.

Attractive indoor monstera vine

Plants "Ornamental-leaved"

One of the most beautiful indoor lianas is monstera. Caring for this plant at home requires knowledge about the characteristics of its growth. Her homeland is South America. Today, liana is common in tropical rainforests around the world. Its leaves amaze with their carved design, dotted with beautiful holes and cuts.

There are many species of this plant from the aroid family. But the usual kind in indoor floriculture is a delicious monstera, or an attractive monstera (lat.Monstera deliciosa).

Growth features

Monstera in nature reaches several meters in length (height). In a greenhouse or in a large light house, it can also grow to this size. The vigor and vitality of the vine is amazing.

Its almost half-meter leaves are leathery and shiny, the holes in them form bizarre patterns. There are different points of view on why vines need perforated leaves. Most likely, the holes in the leaves reduce the sunlit surface of the monstera leaf. In young plants, the leaves are solid, similar to the leaves of philodendrons. Only mature leaves appear in all their carved and perforated beauty.

Monstera is shade-tolerant, like all tropical vines. It will be content with diffused lighting, but it will grow poorly in a completely dark corner. With aerial roots, the vine clings to the supports in order to grow vertically, and feeds, lowering them into the ground.

In indoor conditions, liana blooms very rarely. The monstera flower is an ear with a white or cream blanket. The monstera fruit ripens within 14 months.

All this time, the plant should receive uniform lighting and good nutrition. The fruit looks most like a large ear of corn or an elongated pineapple.

It also tastes like pineapple, banana and mango together. An unripe fetus can burn the mucous membrane.

How to raise a beautiful and healthy monster

• Choose a bright place for the flower, where the burning sun's rays will not fall. It can be an east, west or north window sill. On the south window, the plant must be shaded. An adult liana can be positioned at some distance from the window.
• The plant should not be placed near a central heating radiator. Liana is very hardy, tolerates dry air, but near the batteries its leaves turn brown at the edges and can dry out. If there is no other place, you can try to spray the monster twice a day.
• Monstera does not tolerate temperatures below 12 degrees. If in winter it is colder than 16 degrees, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be very poor. You just need to make sure that the soil does not dry out.
• Watering the flower in the warm season is abundant. The land must be slightly dried between waterings.
• A pot for a monstera must be chosen high or equal in diameter and height. This will make the plant more resistant. For the same purpose, it is better for a monstera to choose a heavy clay pot.
• The soil for the monstera is selected nutritious and not very heavy (at home, it grows in leafy humus). You can buy universal soil or soil for palms. It is useful, but not necessary, to add baking powder (perlite, vermiculite, cocoa soil, sand). Liana will grow in ordinary garden soil, but humus must be added to it so that the earth does not turn into stone later, and take care of nitrogen fertilization every 2 weeks during the period of active growth.
• A monstera transplant is needed when the roots appear from the drainage holes or the edges of the leaves turn brown. The next pot should be 2-3 cm in diameter larger than the previous one. You cannot plant a small plant in a large pot: the soil that has not been mastered by the roots will sour, the plant may die. Young plants are transplanted 2-3 times a year, old ones - once every 2 years.
• For plants in large pots, you can change the topsoil.
• The houseplant monstera needs support. The worst option is store-bought pressed coconut sticks. Their disadvantage is that they are dry and do not provide the plant with additional nutrition. Better to buy a hollow tube with holes or make it out of a rigid mesh. The tube is filled with peat or coco-soil, or earth. Aerial roots and literally grow into the support.
• Aerial roots should never be cut off. They can be guided into a pot or a support. Some monster owners do without supports at all. They attach the tops of the vines to the ceiling and allow the roots to crawl around the room like brown snakes. The plant does not suffer from this at all, and the interior is very exotic.

How to breed a monster

Breeding monstera at home is not difficult. This can be done in three ways:

1. At the base of an adult monstera, "kids" grow.You need to wait until the air roots have reached 1 cm, and you can carefully separate the plants from the mother. They need to be planted in small pots so that the roots quickly take over the whole land. Little monsters grow quite quickly and need frequent replanting.
2. Another breeding method is used when the monstera does not give offspring at the base. The stem of this vine is prone to elongation. Over time, the plant loses its decorative effect, the lower leaves dry out, and the stem becomes bare. To rejuvenate the plant and propagate it, you need to cut the stem of the monstera into several pieces. The stem segment must have at least 2 internodes. Over time, young leaves will appear from the top.
3. The last method is reproduction by air layers. To do this, you need to take a plastic bag and fix it on the bare trunk of the monstera below the internode. The bag should be filled with suitable moist soil (peat, cocoa soil, light leaf humus). Fasten the package above the internode. Within a month, roots will appear in the package. You can wait until they reach the desired length (at least 1-2 cm) and cut the plant below the bag. Carefully removing the package, plant the plant in the ground. The survival rate is guaranteed. The "stump" of the old monstera left in the ground does not need to be thrown away. A young strong shoot will quickly grow out of it, feeding on old developed roots.

• With age, the monster's lower leaves fall off. If several leaves have fallen at once, then the conditions of detention are violated. This can happen when the air temperature is high and dry in winter.
• If brown or yellow spots appear on the leaves, and the leaves themselves turn pale, this is sunburn. Such a sheet will remain permanently damaged. Move the plant away from the light.
• If the leaves turn yellow, wither and even rot, then the plant is transfused. An ambulance in this case is to remove the earthen lump from the pot and put it on a stack of newspapers so that they absorb excess moisture. Can be transplanted into fresh soil and not watered for about a week.
• If the upper leaves grow small and pale, the plant lacks light.
• If there are no holes or cuts in adult leaves, there can be many reasons: lack of light, moisture or nutrition, low air temperature. You can help the plant by providing additional roots with nutrition, directing them to a support or to the ground in a pot.
• Brown dry edges of leaves are from dry air or from a cramped pot.
• Leaves "cry" when the soil is waterlogged. But sometimes it happens before the rain and is associated with a change in atmospheric pressure.
• The stems can rot at low temperatures and excess moisture. You need to raise the temperature and limit watering. It is useful to treat the plant with a fungicide (a remedy for fungal diseases).
• Of the pests, a spider mite or scale insect can affect the monster. From the spider mite, brown dots appear on the leaves, and from the scabbard, tubercles and sticky secretions appear on the stems and leaves. Actofit, actellik, fitoverm will help from these pests.
• Liana should not be kept in a house where there are small animals or children, because its leaves contain crystals of oxalic acid, which causes burns to the mucous membrane.

Indoor vines

Indoor vines or climbing indoor plants Probably everyone has plants at home.

After all, a real florist will not tolerate empty walls and will definitely hang at least a couple of pots. But lianas are not only flowers for decorating walls.

Many indoor vines feel great, twisting around special stands and ladders for flowers. In this case, the plant is formed in a special way.

There are many varieties of indoor vines. There is a whole classification of these colors. But they are united by some general rules of care, which often differ from the principles of growing ordinary plants. Therefore, before you start a curly green beauty at home, find out in more detail how to care for a vine at home.

Such similar and different vines

Almost all lianas are inhabitants of humid, warm tropics. They grow very quickly (at least most of them), easily propagate by cuttings and quickly take root. Perhaps that is why flower growers love them so much. For example, a climbing cypress liana, or Kvamoklit pinnate, can grow by 2.5 m during the growing season.

Despite the similarity in general characteristics, vines are still very different. They can be flexible or have a herbaceous stem, or they can become lignified as they mature. In addition, they differ in the possibilities of vegetative growth: they can be annual and perennial, evergreen and, conversely, deciduous.

Indoor vines are mostly evergreen and perennial. And this is understandable: who wants to look at a long, bare stem all winter? It is the herbaceous vines that are grown at home, and flexible or woody ones can be planted on the personal plot.

And vines are also divided into classes depending on the method that the plant uses to attach to the surface during growth. If the vine is attached to the support with roots, then it is a kornelazyvaya vine, if with lateral branches or tendril shoots, then it is curly or tendril-bearing. And with suction cups, the leaning vines cling to the support.

Most often, amateur flower growers breed curly vines. Their shoots can be twisted around the support, forming a beautiful spiral-shaped plant.

Among the indoor vines, there are many beloved flowering plants: Clerodendron, Ivy, Bougainvillea, Passionflower, Monstera, Philodendron, Hoya and many others. For example, I was very surprised when I found out that even among the cacti there are vines.

How to care for a room vine

A common feature of all plants of this type is the need for diffused lighting and high humidity. Direct rays of the sun are harmful to vines: even wax ivy, which I witnessed, under the sun can get burned leaves.

And the low humidity in the room leads to the fact that you become the owner of a bare stem with a couple of decrepit leaves at the top.

Therefore, the first thing you should do for your indoor vine is to provide it with diffused light and moist air.

Lighting for vines

Most indoor vines like partial shade or even a little shading. But some people need a brighter light. These are the species that have "variegated", that is, multi-colored leaves: Scindapsus, Cissus, Syngonium, Ceropegia.

Bright light, but in no case direct sunlight, otherwise burns in the form of brown spots will appear on the leaves.

The pot with a vine must be turned all the time so that all sides of the plant receive the same share of illumination, otherwise the vine will stretch in one direction and remain forever lopsided.

If you decide to decorate a dark room with a vine, then ivy will suit you. Monstera is also suitable, as well as Cissus Antarctic and Roicissus rhombic.

Watering vines, humidification, temperature and fresh air

It is not for nothing that I have combined all these parameters into one group - they are all interconnected. For indoor vines, moderate temperatures, good ventilation and humid air are considered ideal conditions.

The temperature in winter should not drop below 16 ° C.

I do not think that in city apartments it can be colder than 16 ° C, but if yours is cooler, then you will need to turn on additional heating, but not in the immediate vicinity of the flowers.

In summer, the temperature should ideally not exceed 20-22 ° C, and the heat must be fought by constantly spraying the plant with cool water. In winter, by the way, you also need to moisten the vines, but the water for spraying should be warm.

Water the indoor vine I advise in the morning or evening, but not in the afternoon. And spray in the same mode, you can even 2 times a day. Watering is carried out as the top layer of the soil dries out.

Try not to overmoisten the plant, especially since the soil can remain wet for a long time under the lush cap of leaves.

Water for watering indoor vines should not be cold, otherwise the root system can get sick and rot.

If your house is dry, the heating system heats up the air in the apartment greatly, then you will have to give up the idea of ​​keeping a vine in the house - they will constantly hurt and wither. I once grew ivy near a battery - it did not grow, but barely survived. And in the summer, when I took it out into the fresh air, the ivy grew and began to sprout.

Lianas are very fond of fresh air. But this does not mean that they are not afraid of drafts. Place the climbing plant under a wall so that the jets of air freshen it up without catching a cold.

And, of course, a common feature of all vines is the need for humid air. You already know how to spray a liana, but indoor lianas need to have a shower at least once a month. Dust is difficult to remove from their leaves, so it must be washed off. If this is not done, a spider mite may settle on the plant.

When bathing vines in the shower, make the water slightly warm, but keep in mind that the pressure of the water should not be strong, otherwise you risk breaking leaves and shoots.

Soil and vine transplant

If you bought a vine in a temporary pot, then within two weeks it will need to be transplanted to a permanent place of "residence". It is better not to transplant the indoor liana, but to transfer it with a lump of earth so as not to injure the roots of the plant. And try to keep the plant when transplanting so as not to break the shoots. It is better to transplant the vine with an assistant.

Soil for indoor vines you need a fertile, but light, neutral or slightly acidic reaction. You can use a mixture of turf, humus and leafy soil. And you can take ready-made mixtures: "Saintpaulia", "Begonia", "Cactus-plus".

Some vines grow so low above the flowerpot that the soil is not visible, but since they like loose soil, take a thin long stick to loosen the soil in the pot with it.

As for feeding, vines need it, like other plants. If they are fertilized, they grow faster, and their leaves are juicier and thicker, and if the feeding is neglected, the vines can “go bald”. As a fertilizer, you can use a mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10, or you can feed the vines with a complex mineral fertilizer.

Formation of a room creeper

Giving a growing liana direction and shaping the exterior is a very crucial moment in caring for a plant. And since you have a vine, you will definitely need a support, potted or wall-mounted.

Climbing plants can form themselves by braiding a support or climbing a wall, but it's better if you do this.

To do this, the branches that you want to split open need to be pinched in the zone of the apical shoot so that the lateral processes go.

If you want to get a long central whip branch, then constantly twist it around the support in the direction you need and carefully fix it - for this I use small children's crab hairpins.

If your indoor vine (for example, Passionflower) crawls itself using antennae, control its progress and remove unnecessary whiskers in time so that the vine does not get lost on the route.

Rejuvenation and reproduction of indoor vines

Many indoor vines, as they grow older, shed the lower leaves, as a result of which a bare whip with a dozen leaves at the end remains. This happens especially often in herbaceous vines after winter.

In this case, the plant needs rejuvenation: the apical stalk with leaves is cut and rooted. The old plant is cut almost to half: this way it will branch more strongly.

Sections must be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

A top cut from an old plant can be placed in water to take root. But many indoor vines (the same Ivy) have aerial roots, and therefore the cutting can be immediately dug into the ground.

For quick rooting, the cut of the cuttings is treated with Kornevin, or with folk remedies - aloe juice or Kalanchoe juice.

In addition to the vegetative method, vines are propagated by seeds. For example, I sowed Passiflora and got a very good result in the form of strong shoots. But I do not recommend propagating other types of vines in this way.

In addition to seed propagation and rooting of the apical cuttings, some vines can be planted using a propagation method such as dividing a bush.

Diseases of indoor vines

Almost all lianas diseases are associated with water imbalance.

If you notice that the plant has begun to weaken and lose leaves, then it is quite possible that the reason is that its roots are rotting. This happens when waterlogging and a shift in the pH of the soil to the acidic side. But the indoor liana sheds its leaves and in the case of too low humidity in the room, just before falling, the leaves dry out.

Dry air and lack of moisture leads to the fact that spider mites, aphids and scale insects start in indoor vines. It is difficult to get rid of them: you will need to spray twice with Fitoverm or Aktellik insecticides.

So it is better to prevent the disease by observing all the rules of agricultural technology for vines, and then any of them will become a decoration of your home.

Anredera cordifolia (Boussingaultia baselloides)

The species, which were previously attributed to the genus Bussengoltsi, are now ranked as the genus of andreders, since botanists have combined these two genera into one, which is attributed to the Basellaceae family (Baseliaceae). The homeland of the heartless unredera is South America and Asia. The plant was once introduced or accidentally ended up in Texas, where it naturalized and began to spread further, reaching Florida.

In Europe, the tubers of this plant can be purchased at flower shops. After planting, shoots that require support begin to break out of the tubers, immediately twisting counterclockwise. Several shoots grow from one tuber, depending on its size.

Their length, when the plant is kept in appropriate conditions, sometimes reaches 6 meters. The fleshy, heart-shaped leaves are very sensitive to cold. On the mother tuber, as the plant grows, daughter ones appear.

In the axils of the leaves, nodules are also formed; after planting in the ground, new plants develop from them.

Anredera blooms in late summer and blooms until late autumn. When flowering from the axils of the leaves, long peduncles with racemose inflorescences of small fragrant flowers appear. Fading flowers darken and become less attractive.

Anreder is easy to grow. They take care of her in the same way as for dahlias. Anredera brings a special flavor to the garden area. If you place the anredera on the balcony, it will be covered in greenery, and in the apartment you can create a live screen from this plant by planting several copies next to it. Cuttings root well, and young plants do not require much maintenance and grow quickly.

Shoots reach several meters in length, strongly intertwining with each other. Initially, anredder shoots grow very quickly, but over time, the growth rate slows down.

Bloom

The plant blooms in late summer - early autumn. A long peduncle with a cluster of fragrant flowers grows from the leaf axils. Flowering conditions - planting tubers in early spring, good lighting and warmth.

Seat selection

Anredera is a light-loving plant, but direct rays from too bright the sun can cause yellowing of the leaves. In the shade, the plant grows poorly, the stems stretch out, weaken, become brittle. The lack of light also affects the appearance of the leaves, which are no longer so decorative.

Anredders are suitable primarily for landscaping balconies and verandas. In an apartment, the plant can be placed on the windowsill of a high window by installing a support for long curly stems. When the danger of recurrent frosts has passed, the unredera is taken out into the garden, having previously rolled it up.

Placed in the garden * in an open sunny place or in partial shade. Conservation of tubers.When the first autumn frosts slightly damage the foliage, the plant is transferred to the house and watering is stopped. After the shoots are dry, they are cut off, and the pot of tubers is placed in a cool, dry place and left there until spring.

The tubers of plants planted in the garden directly into the ground are dug out of the ground in the fall and removed to a dry room.

Care

Anredera is sensitive to cold. It grows best at room or slightly higher temperatures. For cultivation, a well-humified, loose, permeable soil is best suited. Since the root system of the anredder is shallow, the soil must be enriched with nutrients.

Be sure to add a layer of drainage to the bottom of the flowerpot. The plant lives for a very long time. Compatibility with other plants. Anreder is recommended to grow as a single plant, as it grows too strong and grows quickly.

From it, you can create a wonderful live screen for blooming pelargoniums or beautifully flowering annuals.

Watering and feeding

After planting, the tubers are watered moderately. When the first shoots appear, you need to make sure that the soil in the flower pot is constantly moist, but not waterlogged, since tubers quickly rot in too moist soil. The plant tolerates dry air well.

It is recommended to feed the plant regularly - once every 2 weeks, and even more often during the period of intensive growth. In such cases, a solution of complex fertilizer is usually used, but if possible, periodically feed the plant with organic fertilizers as well.

Reproduction

Propagated by tubers or cuttings. Cuttings in a warm room quickly root in a mixture of peat and sand. The nodules are separated from the mother tuber in the spring, before the tubers are planted in flower pots.

Possible problems

The leaves of the plant become smaller

The leaves are getting smaller - there is little light. Move the plant to a more illuminated place, cut the stems that are too elongated.

Leaves are stained and turn yellow

The leaves turn yellow, become covered with spots, the tops of the leaves curl - the air is too dry and the sun's rays are hot, causing burns. Shade the plant on a hot, sunny day.

Leaves wither

The leaves wither, old leaves turn yellow and fall off, the root collar and tubers rot - waterlogging of the soil. Limit watering.

Leaves wither - too dry. Water the plant or flowerpot well for a while, submerge it in water.

Aphid

Small black or green insects appear on the tops of the stems, the leaves are deformed - aphids. Wash off the pest with a strong jet of water or treat the plant with an insecticide. Repeat the procedure, if necessary, until the pest is completely destroyed.

Mealybug

A sticky white cotton-like fluff appears in the leaf axils, the plant grows weakly - a mealybug. Remove the pest with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol, rinse the plant with clean water after treatment.

Spider mite

The leaves turn yellow, deform, a delicate cobweb appears on their underside - a spider mite. Cut out damaged shoots or treat the plant with acaricide.

Yaroslav Rak "Encyclopedia of Houseplants"

Tropical vine - Monstera, secrets of care and growing at home

Fans of indoor floriculture appreciate the monster for its unpretentiousness and decorativeness. Its huge carved leaves will not leave anyone indifferent.

At home, this tropical liana feels great and can reach a height of more than six meters in several years. Caring for her is not at all difficult, so even novice flower growers can grow a tropical beauty.

Features of Monstera

At home, it is recommended to place the monster in such a way that it is as much as possiblefurther away from furniture.

This is due to the fact that with the onset of cloudy weather, if the air humidity rises or after abundant watering, the plant begins to remove excess moisture from itself. Water begins to drip little by little from the tips of the leaves.

It should be noted that if this happens, thenit will rain in a day.

Plant care rules

Any houseplant needs proper care. For monstera, there are certain rules, observing which the plant will develop well:

• Liana prefers partial shade... Lighting should be bright, diffused. If there is not enough light, cuts will not appear on the leaves. When exposed to direct sunlight, burns occur;
• In summer, perfect temperature from 22 to 25 degrees Celsius, in winter from 10 to 14;
• The plant feels good at level humidity, amounting to seventy percent. Additional spraying, washing and polishing of the leaf plates is required. In the absence of such care, their tips will begin to dry out;
• Monstera poured with settled water... Hertemperature should be room temperature... In the summer, the earthen lump should be slightly damp; with the onset of winter, watering is reduced.

No more than two times in thirty days, the monster needs to be fed with complex mineral fertilizer. The concentration should be no more than two grams per liter of water.

Reproduction methods

Monstera can be propagated using leaves, aerial roots, seeds and cuttings. Each of the methods deserves special attention. The simplest is considered grafting. Shoots are cut fromthe tops of the vine or the middle of the stem.

The main thing is that they have kidneys. Cut cuttings are planted in high moor peat or sand. The soil should be moist, with a temperature of at least twenty-eight degrees. From above, the stalk is covered with glass or film. After a while, rooting takes place and the first shoots appear.

Monstera can be transplanted into a container with ordinary soil.

When grafting, it should be remembered that the plant begins to grow in height, therefore it breaks easily at the base. To prevent this from happening, in a container with a planta support in the form of a ladder is installed.

Growing by seeds is a lengthy process. The planting material is placed in the ground and regularly moistened. The container with seeds should be in a warm and bright room. Seedlings appear within thirty days. After two years, the monstera will have at least nine true leaves.

Reproduction of tropical liana leaves it is not often used, since there is a high probability that they will not take root.

If a leaf breaks off from the monstera, then you can put it in a container with water and wait for the roots to appear, after which it is planted in the ground.

It is important to remember that roots put in water are veryhard to adapt to the ground and are not able to absorb from it the substances and moisture necessary for normal vegetation. Such a plant looks very bad and gets sick until new roots grow.

The best way to get a strong and healthy plant is aerial roots. In conditions of natural growth, monstera reproduces in this way.

They twist freely from the vines, and as soon as they begin to come into contact with wet moss, they immediately begin to take root, thereby providing new life to the young shoot.

At home, it is difficult to provide suitable humidity, so aerial rootswrapped with a damp sponge or moss, covered with polyethylene on top and moistened regularly. As soon as the growth of real roots occurs, the shoot is cut off from the mother plant and planted in a separate container.

Flower pruning

As they grow older, the decorativeness of the monstera decreases, and the appearance deteriorates, as the lower part of the plant's trunk begins to bare. In order for the vine to become beautiful again, it needs rejuvenation.

To do this, the upper part of the plant is cut off at the level of thirty centimeters. This process has a stimulating effect on the formation of young shoots and new leaves.

Cutting locationsprinkled with crushed charcoal.

The cut cutting is placed in the soil for rooting. It must have at least three nodes. It should not be too long, otherwise the rooting will be very long.

After a while, a young monstera will appear.

Aerial roots

Most tropical plants have aerial roots. Indoor flowers, due to them, receive additional nutrition in the form of moisture from the air. And if they reach the soil, then they feed the plant from it.

Monstera still has aerial roots the role of additional support... They can grow until they reach a hard surface, then gradually begin to woody.

The formation of a dense surface layer around the air root is a reliable protection against various types of damage.

By the state of aerial roots you can determine if the monstera is healthy, or there are problems that need to be addressed. If they become soft and thin after the vine was transplanted, then there is no cause for concern.

This procedure is very difficult for the plant. With a lack of moisture, the roots are able to thin out and dry out. After the normalization of watering and regular spraying of both leaves and aerial roots, everything will fall into place.

The main thing, nDo not use cold water.

It should be noted that young monsters do not have aerial roots. This is because the plant has enough nutrients from the soil in which it grows.

As it begins to stretch upward, these additional organs will begin to appear in the quantities that the vine needs.

Vine diseases

With improper care, monstera, like other indoor plants, can get sick or suffer from damage by harmful insects. In order to provide timely assistance to the plant, you need to know what factors are causing problems and what needs to be done to eliminate them:

• Bigpart of the leaves turned very yellow... As a rule, this is a sign of severe waterlogging, so reducing watering and replanting monstera will correct the situation;
• The appearance of brown spots on yellowed leaf plates means that the plant does not have enough moisture. The cause is eliminated very simply, you need to increase watering;
• Yellowing and gradual fall of leaves. Most often it happens in winter, when the air in the room is too warm and dry. When such signs appear, the monster needs to be moved away from batteries and other devices, in addition, it is necessary to spray the leaves from a spray bottle as often as possible;
• The color of the leaves changes from light green to yellow and eventually becomes transparent and colorless. This may be if the plant is in a too bright place or it is sick with chlorosis. Treatmentcarried out by iron chelatewhich can be purchased from a specialist store;
• The leaves turn yellow and there are no cuts on them. This phenomenon happens when the monstera receives insufficient amounts of nutrients;
• Leaves lose their elasticitybecome paper-like, and turn brown when the container the monstera is growing in is too small for it. Liana transplant will solve the problem.

When monstera are infected with scale insects, spider mites or mealybugs, the leaves begin to turn yellow, after which they fall off. To eliminate pests, the leaf plates and the stem are daily wiped with a sponge, which is pre-moistened in a solution of laundry soap. Helps prevent the emergence of pests by occasional spraying with Actellic.

Colonies of thrips can settle on the underside of monstera leaves. You can kill insects by lowering the temperature in the room andsimultaneous increase in humidity... In addition, the plant is sprayed daily with insecticidal preparations such as Fitoverm, Intavir or Aktel.

Indoor vines: characteristics, photos and care

Indoor lianas are ornamental plants. A cache-pot of them decorates walls, stands and stairs for flowers. There are many types of creepers. They are united by special conditions of care. Before purchasing a plant, study in detail all the intricacies of growing.

Photo indoor lianas and characteristics

Lianas are fast-growing greens, easily adaptable to the planting site, propagated by cuttings. Place of origin - tropics, distribution area: tropical and European forests, the Caucasus, the Far East, Crimea, etc. In a hot environment, there are more than 2 thousand species of culture from different families. In the European part there are only about 200 forms.

Indoor vines - ornamental plants

By the method of attachment to the surfaces of the vines there are:

• kornelazyushchie - roots cling to the supports;
• curly - twine around the devices with lateral branches;
• antennae - use tendril shoots.

Depending on the life span and condition, they are annual or perennial, deciduous or evergreen. Climbing plants are common at home. They are used to decorate rooms and areas, placing spiral branches on supports.

Among this culture are cacti, ferns and palms. Chlorophytum and ivy are common height lovers. Among the lianas, clerodendron, ivy, passionflower and others delight with beautiful flowering.

Tips for caring for indoor vines

Indoor flowers are unpretentious and do not require significant maintenance. But there are certain features in the care for each type of plant.

Care instructions:

• Lighting. Lianas with solid leaves love partial shade. And variegated plants need bright light, but not direct rays, which will cause leaf burns. Rotate the plant 2 times a day to distribute the light evenly on each side. So do not allow or get rid of lopsidedness.
• Temperature. Favorable indicators - + 16 ... + 22 ° С. If the thermometer drops below normal, then get a heating device and install it away from the flower garden. If it is above the norm, periodically spray the leaves with warm water.
• Watering. Water 2 times a day, avoiding waterlogging, as the soil dries up. In order not to rot the roots, use water at room temperature. If the air in the room is constantly dry and hot, the cultivation of vines will not be crowned with success. Indoor creatures love fresh air, but do not tolerate drafts. Shower once a month to remove dust from leaves and prevent spider mites. The water pressure should be low so as not to damage the leaves and stem.
• Transplanting. Transplant the vine from the pot in the spring. To avoid damaging the root system, carefully remove the plant from the container with soil. The soil should be fertile, light. Apply a mixture of humus, foliage and turf or a ready-made specialized soil. Feed the soil with fertilizer and loosen the surface.
• Supporting structures. Growing branches and tendrils need direction and aesthetics. Pinch the tops to branch out the shoots, fixing the spirals around the supports and ladders and removing excess tendrils.

Following the recommendations, you can easily grow an indoor vine. The main thing is proper care, respect and 1 hour of time.

Vines can be so different and at the same time similar to each other. There should be an individual approach to each type.

: brunner large-leaved

qwertyiil

Vines - houseplant

Usually houseplants take up window sills or other places in the apartment where there is a lot of sunlight. But there are types of indoor perennials with which you can decorate the walls in rooms, dark corners, or add greenery in the house with the help of these indoor plants - vines.

Hoya - houseplant

You can grow blooming vines or decorative vines with beautiful foliage, dwarf or huge in size at home. Most of these climbing perennials grow quite quickly, have a good decorative appearance, and also do not require complex maintenance. Photos of different types of such vines will be presented below.

Origin

Most of these climbing plants are native to rainforests.where the weather is warm but humid for most of the year. Many of them can be grown at home, as they grow well, can propagate by cuttings, and also do not require special conditions of maintenance and care.

Indoor vines

Description

Although these plants have a lot in common, the varieties of lianas differ from each other. Their shoots can be thick but flexible enough, or grassy. In many vines, the main stems become woody over time. They can also be annuals or perennials, shed their foliage annually, or remain green for 12 months of the year.

Those climbing plants that are grown at home are predominantly evergreen perennials. And this is natural, because at home they do not grow plants that stand without foliage for half a year. Also, in indoor conditions, flexible or lignified vines are not grown, but only herbaceous.

Epipremnums

Such perennials are also divided into classes - depending on how they are attached to the supports during growth. They are kornelazymi - if attached to the supports with their rhizomes, or curly - if they cling to lateral shoots or tendrils. There is a third type of such plants - leaning, which are attached to the supports with suction cups.

There are many climbing perennials that are happy to grow at home:

• Clerodendrum;
• Ivy;
• Bougainvillea;
• Passionflower;
• Monstera;
• Hoya and a number of other equally beautiful lianas.

The root system of kornelazykh emits a special adhesive mass, with the help of which they are attached to any surface (even to a smooth one). The main representatives of this type are ficuses, ivy and selenicereus.

In leaning species, special thorns, hooks, and also special pubescence grow. It is these natural "adaptations" that allow the vines to be attached to the supports.

Caring for indoor species of vines

Despite some difference between the varieties of these plants, they have the following features in common:

1. lighting should only be diffused;
2. air humidity should be at least 75 - 80%.

Direct sunlight falling on the foliage of these perennials (or annuals) leaves burns on it, and the plants begin to hurt. And when the air humidity is below 70%, the foliage will dry, turn yellow and fall off. And as a result, instead of a beautiful liana with decorative foliage or beautiful flowers, there will be a naked shoot with several leaves in the house.

Clerodendrum

Therefore, the main thing that should be provided for such perennials is special lighting and high humidity in the room.

The nuances of lighting these plants

Most of these indoor perennials like shady or semi-shady places in the apartment, and some feel best in the shade. But some species like bright, but diffused light. These are plants with multi-colored variegated foliage:

• Scindapsus;
• Cissus;
• Syngonium;
• Ceropegia.

For these evergreen vines, bright light is simply necessary so that the color of the foliage does not fade, but you should not allow the sun's rays to burn it. Usually the windows are covered with tulle or other material that diffuses sunlight.

Vines should be regularly rotated around their axis so that enough light is delivered to the entire plant evenly. Otherwise, these perennials will stretch towards the light in one direction - such a plant will grow crooked.

Scindapsus

For rooms with little light, it is better to grow different varieties of ivy there:

1. Monstera;
2. Antarctic Cissus;
3. Rhombic Roicissus.

The main nuances of watering, humidification and temperature conditions

All these parameters are interconnected, therefore, they are combined into one subsection. The following conditions are considered ideal for normal growth and flowering of these "pets":

• moderate air temperature;
• regular ventilation of the room;
• high air humidity (about 80%).

In summer, the room temperature should be around 20⸰С. If the room is hotter, then you should regularly spray the foliage with water at a temperature of + 20⸰С. But in winter, the vines need to be kept away from heating devices, and the air temperature during this period should not be higher than +15 + 16⸰С.

Water these tropical perennials in the morning or evening. Spraying is carried out at the same hours. The next watering should be done when the top of the soil is dry. The plant should not be overmoistened, besides, the soil in the pot will stay hydrated longer under the large head of the vegetative mass of the plant.

If the apartment is too hot and dry in winter, then it is better not to bring these evergreen perennials into the house - they will not feel comfortable, they will start to hurt and dry out.

Fresh air is necessary for all types of vines. They are very afraid of drafts, so it is better to place these perennials near the wall so that the fresh air does not chill the plants.

And do not forget about maintaining high humidity throughout the year. In addition to regular spraying, the plant should be given a shower every 30 days. After all, dust from foliage is difficult to remove with a wet rag or sponge, so you have to rinse it off with running water. Such an event is also a prevention against the appearance of a spider mite.

Vine transplant

Usually in specialized stores, vines are sold in temporary containers, so they should be transplanted at home. But this should not be done immediately - within 10 - 14 days it is necessary to give this perennial the opportunity to acclimatize in a new place.

In order not to damage the root system, it is better to transfer the vine from one container to another along with the earth. You also need to monitor when transplanting so that shoots and foliage do not break.

Usually these plants are transplanted together so as not to damage either their roots or the aerial part.

Antarctic Cissus

The soil for planting these plants should be nutritious and loose enough, and the pH should be in the region of 4.5 - 5.5. You can buy ready-made soil mixture in a specialized store ("Saintpaulia", "Begonia" or "Cactus-plus"), or prepare it yourself. To do this, mix in equal parts sod, humus and leafy soil.

Some types of vines with their foliage completely cover the soil in the pot, but it must be periodically loosened. You can use a long, thin stick for this.

During the summer period, the plant should be fed with organic matter and complex mineral fertilizers. Such feeding will allow vines to grow and develop faster. You can use a solution of cow manure as a fertilizer (10 parts of water should be taken for 1 part of manure). Usually, fertilizing with organic matter and mineral fertilizers is alternated.

Reproduction of domestic perennials

With age, many of these domestic green pets begin to shed their foliage, leaving leaves only in the upper part of the plant.

In this case, the top with leaves should be cut off for subsequent rooting, and the old plant is cut off, leaving only half of the stem. Places of cuts should be treated with charcoal or potassium permanganate solution.

The pruned vine will begin to branch more strongly. This is how the rejuvenation of these "pets" is carried out.

Syngonium

The top of the plant is placed in water to which a root growth enhancer can be added. As soon as the vine grows roots, it can be planted in a permanent place in a new flowerpot. Some plant species have aerial roots, so they can be planted in pots right away.

Some types of lianas can be propagated by seeds, for example, Passiflora. But most varieties of these plants are best not propagated in this way.

You can also propagate perennials and dividing the bush.

Watch also a video on the topic:

Syngonium is a decoration of any interior. This close relative of the philodendron is prized for the beauty of its leaves and relative compactness. An adult flower looks completely different - both like a carpet of leaves, and like a climbing liana, and like free hanging whips. Unpretentiousness in home care is also important. The cultivation of syngonium will definitely not require extra efforts or any special conditions from the grower.

What does syngonium look like

Syngonium is one of the many genera that make up the Araceae family. His homeland is the Central and South American rainforests. The similarity with the philodendron is noticeable to the naked eye, but the syngonium, according to flower growers, is somewhat more elegant, graceful.

The name of the plant was given by a combination of two Latin words - syn (united, welded) and gone (bud, seed). That is, the syngonium is a “united ovule”.

Syngonium in vivo is very different from potted plants.

In indoor floriculture, the syngonium is represented by 2-3 species of almost 30 natural ones. There are, of course, a variety of breeding hybrids.

It has been scientifically proven that syngonium purifies the air by extracting xylene and formaldehyde from it, saturating it with ozone. For a room of 15 m², two medium-sized containers with syngoniums are enough.

Syngonium is a fast-growing vine with a slender, flexible stem. Under natural conditions, its length reaches 15–20 m, thickness - 4–6 cm. With the help of auxiliary aerial roots, it clings to any suitable support. If she is not nearby, the vine will stretch along the ground. But not anywhere, but trying to get to the nearest shadow.

Astrologers define syngonium as the flower of Mercury and Saturn. It is useful for schoolchildren, students, teachers and in general everyone who loves to learn and expand their own horizons. The plant helps to systematize and assimilate the knowledge gained, to "open" the mind to new ideas and concepts, to think faster and not to stop developing.

The main "value" of syngonium for flower growers is shiny leathery leaves on long petioles. Young leaves are very bright, emerald green, with age they darken.

The shape also changes. At first, the leaves are whole, like an arrowhead or a heart, then symmetrically located "notches" appear along the edges of the leaf plate. In total, it turns out from 3 to 11 sectors.

The leaf shape of an adult syngonium consists of several separate sectors.

There are varieties with a pattern on the leaves in the form of stripes, strokes, spots, streaks of greenish, silver or milky white. A thin vein runs parallel to the edge of the leaf.

As they grow older, the color of the syngonium leaf can change significantly.

The flower is typical for all members of the family and is rather inconspicuous. A thick greenish inflorescence-ear is wrapped in a whole petal-veil of pinkish or reddish color. But outside the wild, the syngonium, in principle, does not bloom.

It will not be possible to observe the flowering of syngonium at home, but this is not a big loss.

All parts of the syngonium, when damaged, secrete a caustic milky white juice. Once on open areas of the body or mucous membranes, it provokes inflammation, rash and even burns. When working with a flower, do not forget about gloves. If you are living with small children and / or pets, pick the flower in a place where they are guaranteed not to get to it.

Achievements of breeders in the field of breeding new varieties of syngoniums are distinguished by a remarkable variety.

In the teachings of feng shui, it is believed that the syngonium, which changes as it grows, helps its owner keep up with the times, get rid of unhealthy retrograde and reprehensible skepticism towards everything new, clearly embellished memories of the past, painful craving for antiquity. The flower helps to "tune" thoughts for today, to start making realistic plans for the future, as well as to get rid of complexes and clearly outdated life principles. Located in the bedroom, the syngonium "draws out" negative energy, driving away nightmares.

Species common in home floriculture

Most often, flower growers acquire syngoniums of varieties obtained by breeders. But authentic plants of natural species also look very good:

• Syngonium leg-leaved (podophyllum)... A scourge with a thin (no more than 3 cm in girth) stem branches strongly. During the year, the plant adds 55–65 cm. Leaves increase with age from 10 cm to 30–35 cm, the number of segments varies from 3 to 9.
• Syngonium auricular, or auricular (auritum)... It grows even faster than the previous one - by 80–90 cm annually. The leaves are fleecy to the touch, at the base there are two symmetrical processes - "ears".
• Syngonium Wendland, or Wendland (wendlandii)... A creation of nature, not inferior in decorativeness to the best achievements of breeders. Adult leaves are tripartite, velvety, with a silvery vein in the center. It grows relatively slowly.
• Syngonium large-leaved (macrophyllum)... Atypical representative of the genus. The stem is rather fleshy (up to 7–8 cm in diameter), the dull whole leaves are shaped like a stingray. The veins are clearly visible below.

Photo gallery: syngonium pedifolia and other natural species

Artificially bred syngoniums look even more impressive.

Photo gallery: selective hybrid varieties with different leaf colors

In what conditions to keep this vine at home

Syngonium, like all aroids, will not require something supernatural from the grower. His homeland - humid and hot tropics is difficult to recreate in a modern apartment without prejudice to those living in it, but it is quite possible to provide the flower with acceptable conditions.

Table: what to do to create the correct microclimate for the syngonium

Syngonium, alone or in conjunction with other plants, is widely used to create islands of greenery in the interior.

Planting and transplanting

Flowers under 5 years old change the pot annually in spring, adult syngoniums - every 3-4 years... The correct container is cylindrical, high but not too wide. Do not take the pot "for growth", increase the diameter and depth gradually - a few cm at a time.

The plant clearly needs to be transplanted if the roots are sticking out of the drainage hole.

Choose a pot for syngonium by size, not growth

Syngonium loves light soil in which air and moisture, neutral or slightly acidic, do not stagnate. You can buy special soil for aroids in the store, but you can also make a suitable mixture yourself:

• fertile garden soil, humus, peat chips and coarse sand (equally divided).
• soil for orchids, sand, rotted compost and crushed charcoal (10: 2: 2: 1).

Useful additives - finely chopped pine bark, coconut fiber, dried sphagnum moss, red brick chips, bone meal (about a glass per liter of ready-made potting soil).

Fiddling with soil can be avoided by growing syngonium hydroponically.

There is nothing difficult in transplanting a syngonium:

1. A quarter of the volume of the pot is filled with drainage. If desired, a support is fixed in it.
2. Soil is poured onto the drainage so as to fill a third of the container.
3. The plant is removed from the old pot along with an earthen lump, put in a new container and sprinkled with soil around the edges, gently tamping.
4. Before reaching 1.5–2 cm to the edge of the pot, stop and compact the substrate again.
5. Water the syngonium well.

If a flower needs support, it is fixed in a pot before transplanting, and not stuck into the ground later - there is a real risk of damaging the roots

At a purchased flower, the roots need to be washed, cut off all decayed and dried out areas, immersed for 15–20 minutes in water with several crystals of potassium permanganate. Immediately before planting, the slices are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.

Video: how to properly transplant syngonium

Important nuances of care

The syngonium does not have a clearly expressed rest period. Therefore, they take care of him the same throughout the year. The only exception is if the indoor temperature drops slightly in winter. Then you need to reduce watering.

Watering

Syngonium loves moisture, so it needs to be watered often and quite abundantly, as soon as the top layer of earth in the pot dries out. After waiting 15–20 minutes, drain the excess water from the pan.

For irrigation, use only water that has settled for a day or more with a temperature of 22–25 ºС. Rainwater or melted snow is ideal. But even what flows from the tap can be softened with citric acid (several granules per 10 liters).

Top dressing

Fertilization is not a vital procedure for syngonium, but with a deficiency of essential trace elements in the substrate, the leaves decrease. You can use a solution of mineral fertilizer for decorative leafy indoor plants every 15–20 days. There are also fertilizing specifically for aroids (they have less calcium). This microelement has a negative effect on the decorativeness of plants, which lose their colorful pattern with an overabundance.

In winter, the interval between procedures is increased to 25–30 days, or top dressing is stopped altogether.

How to form a lush bush by pinching the stems of the creepers

The syngonium can be pinched if you want to get not a climbing vine, but a more or less compact bush. To do this, several plants are placed in one pot and each new shoot is shortened in the spring by pinching off the top, leaving 6–7 leaves (about 30 cm of the stem). This procedure stimulates branching.

In liana-like syngoniums, old, dried leaves, dead shoots are removed simultaneously with the transplant. For ampelous plants, which are grown in hanging pots, the twisting lashes are periodically simply shortened to the desired length.

With the help of a support, you can form something that resembles a tree by wrapping vines around it and cutting off the lower leaves. And if this structure is wrapped in strips of moss or coconut fiber, then by periodically spraying it, the florist also solves the problem of air humidity.

Why the syngonium began to grow poorly - problem solving

To completely ruin the syngonium is a rather difficult task. The plant reacts most painfully to prolonged moisture deficit. But some mistakes in care are detrimental to its decorative effect.

Table: the leaves turn yellow and shrink, and the tops of the stems are too stretched up - care errors

Syngonium does not suffer from any specific pest diseases. Most insects (but not all) are repelled by the poisonous sap of the plant.

Table: what to do to rid the syngonium of pests

Photo gallery: pests of syngonium

Reproduction

Reproduction of syngonium is a simple procedure. Since seeds cannot be obtained at home due to the lack of flowering, a vegetative method is used.

Rooting order of leaf or apical cuttings:

1. Cut the top of the vine about 15 cm long from a healthy plant at least 3 years old. The middle part of the shoot is also suitable.
   

   The main condition is the presence of at least one, and preferably 2-3 growth buds ("eyes" from which aerial roots grow). From one adult syngonium without damage to it, you can get 3–7 cuttings.

   

   The apical cuttings of the syngonium should have a stem length of 15 cm

2. Soak the planting material for 3-5 hours in a rooting stimulator and dry for about a day.
3. Place the cuttings in a container with boiled water warmed to room temperature, in which 2-3 tablets of activated carbon are dissolved, or in coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite, crushed sphagnum moss, peat chips. The components can be mixed approximately equally. Cuttings are stuck into the substrate with a cut down, parts of the stem are placed horizontally, slightly sprinkling on top.
4. Cover the containers with glass jars or cut-off plastic bottles. Provide bright light and a constant temperature of 25–28 ºC.
5. Air your plantings daily to avoid rot. Moisten the substrate as it dries.

   If you root cuttings in water, make sure that it is always at the right level, that is, it covers the growth points of the roots.

6. After about a month, plant the rooted cuttings in individual pots, care for them as if they were mature plants.

   A rooted stalk can be transplanted within a month.

Video: reproduction of syngonium by stem cuttings

Florist reviews

Syngonium is an excellent choice for flower growers, including beginners, who want to decorate their home with bright juicy greenery, combining business with pleasure. The variety of breeding hybrids means a wide choice and the possibility of creating a collection.

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