How to grow hippeastrum at home?

Blooming hippeastrum fascinates with its beauty. Only once a year, he pleases us with huge flowers-stars. And what is the disappointment when the long-awaited flower does not appear, or the plant begins to wilt altogether. To avoid such troubles and be able to enjoy the contemplation of this wonderful flower, you need to know some secrets of care and adhere to them. A grateful plant will surely delight the eye with generous flowering.

Description of hippeastrum

Appearance

Hippeastrum (lat.Hippeastrum) is a perennial bulbous plant. Leaves are linear, shiny leaves, 50–70 cm long, 4–5 cm wide, have shallow grooves on the surface. The leaves are arranged in two rows. During the flowering period, the plant produces a powerful, high (up to 60–80 cm) peduncle.

The name of the flower is translated from ancient Greek as "star rider".

Hippeastrum during flowering - a subject of pride and admiration

The flowers are funnel-shaped. Their color range is quite wide: reds, white, oranges, pinks, purples, sometimes yellow or greenish shades. The main tone can be complemented by strokes or specks.

The flowers are large - up to 20 cm in diameter, collected in an umbrella inflorescence. Hippeastrum has a very faint odor. Some species don't smell at all. This is a great benefit for people prone to allergic reactions.

Flowering hippeastrum - video

Natural habitat and home maintenance

The homeland of the hippeastrum is the American tropics and subtropics, in particular the Amazon basin. It was introduced to Europe in the 16th century and quickly gained admirers all over the world. In 1799, Johnson's first hybrid hippeastrum was introduced. Today these flowers are widely used as a houseplant and are also grown for cutting. Hippeastrum is not very difficult to care for. Even novice growers can easily cope with this task.

Variety of varieties of hippeastrum

This plant belongs to the Amaryllis family and has about 90 species and more than 2 thousand varieties.

In indoor floriculture, hybrid hippeastrum (hippeastrum hybrida) is most often cultivated. The classification of varietal hippeastrum is based on two characteristics: the size and shape of the flower. Depending on this, plants are conventionally divided into 9 groups, which are indicated in the table.

The most popular groups and varieties of hippeastrum - table

Magnificent hippeastrum in the photo

Similarities and differences with amaryllis

Amaryllis is often referred to as hippeastrum varieties, but this is mistaken

Hippeastrum is often confused with amaryllis or the names of these flowers are considered synonymous. Even on sale hippeastrum can go under the name "amaryllis" or vice versa. They are indeed relatives belonging to the same botanical family - amaryllidaceae, but representing different genera.

Outwardly, these plants are very similar and require almost the same care. Biologically, they are arranged in different ways. The main differences are presented in the table.

Biological differences between hippeastrum and amaryllis - table

Optimal conditions for growing a flower

The practice of cultivating this plant shows that the beauty of the hippeastrum depends on the optimal parameters of temperature, humidity and illumination. Intense bloom provides a full dormant period in a dark, dry and cool place for at least 8-10 weeks. "Tired" hippeastrum most often gives small flowers on a short peduncle or does not bloom at all.

At the moment the bulb wakes up, the conditions should be gradually (but not drastically) changed: transfer the plant to a warm, but not too brightly lit room and increase watering to moderate. Thus, the formation and development of peduncles is stimulated. In cold climates, this process is greatly slowed down.

If a plant hits bright light from the dark in combination with excess moisture, it stimulates the rapid growth of the green mass, but noticeably inhibits the development of the peduncle.
In order for the hippeastrum to develop fully, it is necessary to observe the growing conditions given in the table.

Growing conditions for hippeastrum at different periods of development - table

Planting and transplanting

The planting time of the hippeastrum bulbs can be selected depending on the desired flowering period. This can be done regardless of the season. The plant will delight you with flowers about 5-9 weeks from the moment the shoots appear. Hippeastrum bulbs sold through the distribution network are ready to bloom. They have gone through a dormant period and do not need darkness.

Planting requires a deep (up to 15 cm) and narrow (no more than 5–6 cm larger than the bulb diameter) pot, preferably ceramic, always stable on a horizontal surface. A narrow pot is necessary to prevent excessive moisture and root rot. As an optimal substrate, you should use drainage, which fills the lower part of the pot, and a soil mixture consisting of equal parts of sand, turf, humus or peat.

Drainage is a prerequisite for preventing excessive soil moisture and rotting of the bulb and roots

The bulb is planted in a slightly damp soil mixture, deepening it to a maximum of 2/3 of the height.

Narrow pot and shallow planting create optimal conditions for the hippeastrum

After planting, the plant only needs warmth.It is not necessary to water the hippeastrum before the sprouts appear.

If any damage is noticed on the bulb, it must first be healed. This procedure includes trimming rotten parts, keeping for 30 minutes in a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Maxima) or ordinary greenery and drying for a day.

Processed hippeastrum bulb

It is necessary to plant such a bulb in the ground, where humus is replaced with a small amount of sphagnum (peat moss).

It is advisable to deepen the reanimated bulb into the soil no more than 1/4 of its height. With such a planting, it is easier to control its condition and, if necessary, carry out spraying. After the bulbs have recovered, the soil mixture can be easily refilled to the usual level.

Surface planting of a damaged bulb

Having planted the plant in moist soil, it is placed in a warm, slightly shaded place (you can cover it with an empty pot) and watering is excluded until the peduncle is distilled to a height of 10 cm.

The optimal frequency of hippeastrum transplantation is once every 3-4 years. A favorable time is the eve of the dormant period or its end. It is advisable to use the transshipment method when transplanting - to move the plant along with the earthen clod. In this case, the root system is minimally damaged, which contributes to the rapid rooting of the bulb and its active development.

Transfer method - a method of transplanting with minimal damage to the root system

Basic rules for caring for hippeastrum

Watering and feeding

As discussed above, the intensity of watering the hippeastrum is directly related to its life cycle. However, it is important to provide the plant with not only the required amount of moisture, but also correctly deliver it to the root system.

For example, it is not recommended to pour water on the bulb - it can rot. Better to combine top watering with pan watering. Thus, moisture will be evenly distributed over the earthen coma, which will exclude root rot. The main rule of watering hippeastrum: it is better to underfill than overflow. You also need to regularly wipe the leaves from dust or wash them with warm water.

During the growth of the peduncle, when it reaches a height of 12-15 cm, it is useful to water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. After 5-6 days after that, you need to feed the plant with phosphorus fertilizer.

Top dressing of hippeastrum is carried out regularly, at the beginning of the growing season - once every two weeks with liquid nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (7: 3: 6) fertilizer (for deciduous plants). After the appearance of leaves, to stimulate the active formation of buds, hippeastrum requires less nitrogen and much more potassium, so the ratio of mineral components changes to the proportions of 4: 6: 12 (for flowering plants). The frequency of feeding is maintained.

A month before the onset of the dormant period, the hippeastrum needs fertilizers with an insignificant part of nitrogen and phosphorus and a large amount of potassium (4: 4: 12).

Carefully read the method of applying fertilizers on the packaging and do not exceed the indicated concentration of minerals. Otherwise, the root system of the plant can be burned.

Timely balanced feeding contributes to high-quality flowering and deciduous growth. The base of the leaves forms the scales of the bulb and it grows in size. With insufficient nutrition or a complete lack of feeding, the bulb will use the nutrients accumulated from the leaves, but they are not enough to ensure flowering.

Some secrets of flowering

Sometimes hippeastrum disappoints flower growers, refusing to bloom. Why? There may be several reasons:

1. Most often, the plant does not throw out a peduncle due to the depletion of the bulb. Hippeastrum requires a substantial amount of nutrients for flowering. Unsurprisingly, the potted soil is quickly depleted. To avoid such problems, it is necessary to feed regularly and in sufficient quantities.
2. A plant affected by pests (spider mites, worms or scale insects) tries to fight them and does not have the strength to bloom.
3. Hippeastrum does not bloom even with rotting of the bulb, which occurs due to waterlogging of the soil.

To admire the blooming hippeastrum from year to year, such situations should not be allowed. It is also useful to know some tricks of experienced florists to ensure 100% flowering of this plant:

• treating the bulb with hot (43–45 ºC) water for three hours before planting will cause the plant to bloom in three weeks;
• if you stop watering from August, move the plant to a dark, dry place and keep it there until the end of January, after which you resume watering, the flowers will delight you in 1.5 months;
• if you cut off all the leaves in July and do not water the hippeastrum for a month, and with the first watering introduce liquid complex fertilizing, the flowers will bloom in August or September.

In order to avoid scalding the roots, fertilizer should be applied only after preliminary moistening of the soil.

Immediately after flowering, it is necessary to cut off the wilted peduncle, continuing watering and feeding. And prepare the plant for good rest (dormant period). The next flowering directly depends on this.

Dormant period

The natural resting period of the hippeastrum lasts quite a long time: from September to January. If your plant grew outdoors in summer, by the beginning of autumn it must be brought into the house and gradually reduce watering until the leaves completely stop and dry out. You can trim the yellowed leaves yourself, from which the bulb has already taken nutrients.

The quality of the next flowering depends on the dormant period.

After that, you should put (or put the pot with the plant on its side) in a dark and cool (5-12 ° C) room. Many growers keep them at a higher temperature - about 17-18 ° C. The soil should be slightly moistened once every 2-3 weeks to prevent drying out of the roots. It is not recommended to moisten and spray the onion.

The dormant period should last 1.5–3 months, depending on the planned time of the subsequent flowering of the plant. During this time, the hippeastrum does not "show signs of life." The development of leaves and peduncles occurs only inside the bulb.

After a period of rest, it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up. Leaves and peduncles appear on the surface of the bulb.

Simultaneous appearance of leaves and peduncle

Problems waking up after wintering

If the bulb does not wake up, you can, of course, be patient and wait for it to wake up on its own. But, as a rule, full flowering from the "belated" bulb will not work.

In this case, it is worth remembering in what state the plant “retired”. After all, the peduncle is laid in the bosom of every fourth leaf. If last year the green mass was not sufficiently grown, the bulb will be weakened.

And if there were less than four leaves, then in the new season the hippeastrum will probably refuse to bloom. Dry content can hardly be helped here. It is necessary to provide a very warm temperature, actively water and feed.

Care errors and their correction

It is not very difficult to care for hippeastrum, but it is imperative to follow the rules of watering, feeding and lighting at different periods of the plant's life cycle.

Common mistakes in caring for hippeastrum - table

Diseases and pests of the hippeastrum

Hippeastrum is not too susceptible to disease. It is most often affected by a red burn (red burn fungus or stagonosporosis), red rot and downy mildew. Some pests can also bother this plant: spider mites, scale insects, aphids, worms. You can determine what a plant is sick with by its appearance.

The main diseases and pests of the hippeastrum and how to combat them - table

The most common diseases and pests of the hippeastrum in the photo

Reproduction

Hippeastrum reproduces in two ways: seed and vegetative.

Seed method

The seed method is rather complicated and time-consuming. Seeds are formed only 1.5–2 months after flowering. But they do not form on their own. It is necessary to artificially pollinate pistils and stamens. The grown ovary looks like a large tricuspid capsule.

Ripening of hippeastrum seeds

Inside the capsule, there are rows of flattened seeds of an irregular rounded shape. They are characterized by a black color with a brown tint and the presence of thin black wings.

Seeds ready for sowing

In spring they are planted in sandy-leafy soil. It is important to take into account that freshly harvested seeds have one hundred percent germination. From dried seeds, as a rule, only 30% of the total germinate. Seedlings will delight you in 15–5 days.

Sprouted hippeastrum seeds

When the leaves grow to 6–10 cm, they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 6–7 cm. At this time, the bulb grows.

Grown seedlings of hippeastrum

The period until the first flowering of young plants of different varieties ranges from two to five years. This method is more acceptable to breeders. Most amateur flower growers consider it costly and ineffective. At the same time, there is no guarantee of the preservation of the maternal characteristics of the plant.

Vegetative method

It is much easier to propagate hippeastrum in a vegetative way. Several variants of it are practiced.

Propagation by daughter bulbs

This is a natural, and therefore the most optimal and simplest way. Bulbs of three years of age, with proper care, usually give 3 babies.

Separating the bulbs

They are separated with a sterile sharp instrument, treating the cuts with crushed coal. Planted in accordance with the rules for planting an adult bulb.

For two years, the newly planted plant is not deprived of its foliage and is not set to rest. The growth of the bulb and the formation of the peduncle in it depends on the intensity of the growth of the leaves. With good care, babies will throw out flower stalks in 2-3 years.

Dividing the bulb

Split onion

The division is carried out during the maximum accumulation of nutrients in the bulb - in November.

Division process algorithm:

1. Remove the top layer of the soil, leaving only the lower part of the bulb in the soil.
2. Remove dry outer scales.
3. Cut off the leaves along with the top of the bulb.
4. Cut the onion into four equal parts to the surface of the soil.
5. Insert knitting needles with a diameter of 5–6 cm into the incisions to prevent the parts of the bulb from closing.
6. Adhere to all the rules of caring for an adult plant.
7. With the appearance of leaves, fertilize and continue fertilizing according to the standard scheme.
8. Divide the onion the following spring and place the parts in separate flowerpots.

You can divide the onion in another way: cut it, leaving a piece of the bottom and scales in each part. It is useful to sprinkle the sections with charcoal or activated carbon. Plant the resulting slices in a light peat mixture.

shallow planting in a light substrate

After 40-50 days, babies appear, which must be planted in pots in the spring.

Attention! When seating, one should not forget about the presence of toxic substances in the bulbs of the hippeastrum and adhere to safety rules.

Gardeners reviews

Pluses: easy to clean.

Disadvantages: This is my favorite flower, so there are no disadvantages at all.

I have two adult hippeastrum. Let's start with a dormant period. They have it under the kitchen sink, and I hardly water them. Just a little once a month. When the dormant period ends, I take out the flowers on the window and do not water until an arrow with a bud appears. Now you can water and gradually increase watering. If you start watering right away, without waiting for the arrow, then you risk not getting bloom. Strong foliage will just begin to grow, and the bud will not appear.

They multiply by bulbs very slowly. Therefore, I came up with the idea to pollinate them artificially and get seeds for sowing. Pollinated during flowering, they both bloomed at the same time.I just took a cotton swab and transferred the pollen from one flower to the pistil of another. Usually, after flowering, the flower dries up and falls off. At the same time, a green box was formed, in which there were seeds. When the box dried up and began to crack, I collected the seeds and sowed them in the ground to a depth of 1 centimeter in the fall. The first shoots appeared at the end of winter. What a joy it was))) There are 34 of them in the flowerpot, they are preparing for transplantation. These babies will bloom in about 2.5-3 years. It's only a shame that the hippeastrum grown in this way does not preserve the species characteristics of the parent plant. That is, my mother plant is red, but these small hippeastrum flowers will bloom with completely different colors, which will differ both in shade and in shape. But this is even more interesting.

Kseny687654

Advantages: gorgeous flowering, unpretentiousness.

Disadvantages: blooms for only a few days.

I want to share with everyone a piece of my joy. I have two hippeastrum blossoms at once, it's right for my birthday! A wonderful gift! In general, hippeastrum are bulbous plants with juicy, long, green leaves, with huge flowers (there are up to 6 of them on one peduncle), each of the flowers is up to 25 cm in diameter! I have a little smaller, but nevertheless also large, especially on white. They bloom depending on the variety at different times. Flowers must have a dormant period for this. For example, mine have just faded, now they have released their leaves, they are in the process of growing. I water them (moderately), feed them, and they stand in the light. They will have a dormant period from October to February. By this time, their watering should be reduced. I put them in a dark place and gradually stop watering. Maximum once a month, and sometimes even less. The leaves that were on the flowers dry out and are easily removed. We take out the plant when the first leaves begin to hatch, put it on the windowsill and start watering. By the way, after flowering, we cut the peduncle so that its height is 15 cm, and then, when it dries, we separate it from the plant by hand. Propagated by bulbs and seeds. In the first case, flowering occurs in 3-4 years, and in the second - in 8 years. The plant is unpretentious and is not susceptible to almost any disease.

Lisichkina

Hippeastrum care is available even for very busy people. It requires a minimum of effort and provides maximum aesthetic pleasure. You will fall in love with this "star rider" at the first bloom. Grow and welcome spring with wonderful flowers in February!

By specialty - commodity expert of non-food products. I work as a teacher of commercial and commodity disciplines.

We have collected for you the most complete collection of tips and secrets for caring for hippeastrum at home. From the article you will learn all the most common difficulties that arise when growing hippeastrum, as well as all the necessary information on watering, lighting and other rules for caring for this flower.

It should be noted (!) That hippeastrum is often confused with amaryllis, which may cause certain difficulties. Choose your seedlings carefully to prevent disappointment.

Hippeastrum are very beautiful perennial flowers with over 90 species. This will allow you to choose the plants that are right for you and your garden and interior, and satisfy any taste preferences. Hippeastrum will be able to please everyone and everyone, and decorate a wide variety of flower arrangements.

General information about Hippeastrum

Sometimes this plant is confused with amaryllis - they are really close, but not the same. Hippeastrum is a perennial flower that grows from a bulb. Its foliage is linear, growing more than half a meter in length and five in width.

Flowers, similar to umbrellas, form inflorescences, appear on a high peduncle.After flowering, a box with seeds appears, which have a very high germination capacity, being fresh.
This plant has features that need to be remembered.

• varieties in which inflorescences are white or light in color usually form low-quality seeds.
• in summer it is advisable to bury plants in open soil
• flowering hippeastrum lasts only 10 days.
• to make forcing, you only need to take large onions.

The following varieties are quite popular:hippeastrum hybrid, charisma, papilio, picoty... The mix is ​​a mixture of different hippeastrum seeds.

Hippeastrum, Latin -Hippeástrum.

Amaryllis family. Homeland - tropical America. About 75 species are widespread in nature. Currently, there are a large number of varieties that differ in the shape and color of the flowers, all of them are combined into the species Hippeastrum hortorum garden Hippeastrum hortorum. This plant has a large bulb, up to 20 cm in diameter, which is only half deep into the soil.

Belt-shaped leaves are collected in a basal rosette, about 50 cm long. Flowers are collected in 2-4 pieces in an umbrella-shaped inflorescence on a long (up to 1 m) peduncle. The perianths are wide, up to 20 cm in diameter, bell-shaped, of a wide variety of shades: white, pink, red, burgundy, yellow, variegated. It has large stamens with bright yellow anthers. Blooms in February - early March.

History

The cultivation of amaryllis and hippeastrum in countries with a temperate and cold climate became possible only from the end of the 17th century, when the active construction of greenhouses in botanical gardens and private estates began.... Foreign rarities were brought by seafarers, botanists and hunters for plants encouraged by traders. In the 18th century, many of Linnaeus's students took part in difficult and dangerous expeditions that sometimes ended tragically. The genus Amaryllis - the predecessor of Hippeastrum - was established in 1737 in the work "Hemera plantarum". The plants assigned to it were previously called by botanists lilies (Lilium) and lilionarcissus (Lilio narcissus).

• In the description of the garden of the burgomaster of Amsterdam G. Clifforth, Linnaeus mentions four types of amaryllis, including A. beautiful (A. belladonna), and in the famous book "Species plantarum" (1753), he already lists nine species of amaryllis. Later, in the process of botanical research, descriptions of amaryllis from Mexico, Venezuela, Peru, Brazil and other countries appeared.
• In 1821 W. Herbert established a new genus - Hippeastrum. He attributed to it more than 15 American species, discovered by himself or published earlier, including some of Linnaeus's amaryllis.
• Their former names have become synonymous. Later, many hippeastrums were described by other botanists, for example, R. Baker - 25 species, R. Filippi - about 15, H. Moore - more than 10. Now there are descriptions of about 80 species of hippeastrum and one type of amaryllis.

The modern names of the hippeastrum were not received immediately after the description of this genus by Herbert. For a very long time, confusion and confusion reigned in the taxonomy of these plants. True, some species, previously called amaryllis, were attributed to hippeastrum, others "migrated" to neighboring, closely related genera.

Hippeastrum flower - features

Hippeastrum flowers are bulbous perennials. The rounded, sometimes conical bulb of the hippeastrum consists of a short, thick stem and closed scales. The size of the bulbs, depending on the species, ranges from 5 cm to 10 cm in diameter. At the base (bottom) of the bulb is a bunch of filamentous roots.

• The leaves of the hippeastrum are linear, grooved on the surface, keeled below, 50-70 cm long, 4-5 cm wide, arranged in two opposite rows. In some varieties, the leaves may be purple in color, but they are mostly green.
• Umbellate inflorescence of 2-6 bisexual flowers 13-15 cm in length and up to 25 cm in diameter is formed on a cylindrical, hollow, leafless peduncle 35-80 cm in height.
• Flowers, funnel-shaped or tubular, are located on long petioles, the color of the flowers is very different: dark red, bright red, orange, pink, white, etc.
• The fruit is a tricuspid capsule, spherical or angular, in which small hippeastrum seeds ripen. The germination rate of freshly harvested seeds is almost one hundred percent.

Homemade hippeastrum has several features that must be considered if you decide to grow it:

• - varieties with light and white flowers form few full-fledged seeds;
• - in the summertime, hippeastrum is best kept in the garden, digging into the ground;
• - the timing of the blooming of the hippeastrum can be adjusted by timing it to certain dates - this is very convenient, given that the blooming hippeastrum is a wonderful gift that replaces an expensive exquisite bouquet;
• - each flower of the hippeastrum blooms for only ten days;
• - for distillation, only large bulbs should be used, in which a large supply of nutrients has been accumulated.

Home phytodesign in the highest class

You can use the hippeastrum flower to decorate any room, but it looks most impressive in the living room, hall, study, dining room. It is best to place the composition in the center of the room, on tables, special flower stands. At the same time, it is desirable to decorate the flowerpot. This flower is quite beautiful in cut, in various compositions. Amaryllis, hippeastrum are plants with which not every indoor flower can compare in expressiveness and attractiveness. To enhance the impression of his most beautiful creation, experts recommend using not one plant, but several. It is recommended to combine them into a luxurious ensemble. These flowers look unusual in the interior of the apartment, thanks to their catchy and sophisticated beauty.

When drawing up floral masterpieces, one must also remember that home hippeastrum stimulates performance. Therefore, it is often advised to put pots with this plant in offices, home offices, libraries.

Depletion

Stimulating energy allows you to maintain the necessary mental balance, contributes to making the right decisions. It is this property that imposes the following growing condition: during flowering, the pet is depleted, it needs regular rest, it is impossible to stimulate the ejection of buds all year round.

Hippeastrum is a beautiful home creation, which is distinguished by large, attractive, bright colors. In cultivation, it is not so whimsical, although it requires adherence to some simple rules. It starts to hurt when care is significantly violated. Hippeastrum is often used in phytodesign, allowing you to create unusual, stylish compositions.

Hippeastrum home care

To grow hippeastrum, you need to choose a place for it with a large amount of light, but the rays should not fall directly on it - the light needs diffused, but bright.

• During the growing season, the temperature should be at least twenty degrees, but not higher than twenty-five.
• Hippeastrum is an indoor plant, photophilous, but it does not tolerate direct sunlight.
• During the growth period, hippeastrum is able to withstand any room temperature, however, a temperature of more than 20 degrees is considered comfortable for rich flowering.
• The earth in a pot and the presence or absence of feeding worries him a little: during the flowering period, he spends the energy collected in the bulb over the past season.
• When forcing the peduncle in water or an inert substrate, this should be taken into account.

The dormant period of the flower is very pronounced: in August-September, the leaves stop growing and completely die off, and in October-January a new arrow appears.

Bulb selection, planting, transplanting

When choosing hippeastrum bulbs, get down to business seriously. Examine each onion carefully.They should be smooth, heavy, with dry brownish-golden scales, with good living roots..

• When buying hippeastrum in a pot, already with leaves, pay attention to its appearance.In a healthy plant, the leaves are bright green, shiny, hold well on their bases.... In the weak and sick, drooping and dull.
• If there is a red border and a dotted pattern on the bulb, these are signs of a fungal disease(red burn or red rot). It is better to refrain from such a purchase: the plant will have to be treated for a long time.
• The next step is landing.Hippeastrum grows in any garden soil... But maximum decorativeness can be achieved if the composition of the soil is as follows: sod land, humus, peat in a ratio of 1: 2: 1 with the addition of wood ash and bone meal. The latter can be replaced with double superphosphate (2 tsp for a 1 liter container). Phosphorus provides plants with a lush bloom.

The pot for the hippeastrum should not be too large: the distance between its walls and the bulb is the thickness of the finger. Otherwise, the flower will grow the root system, lush leaves, acquire children, and refuse to bloom. But at the same time, the capacity should be quite stable, since the plant is large, and the flowers in some varieties reach 20-22 cm in diameter. They are especially heavy in terry forms. And when planting, the bulb is buried 1/2 of the height, that is, it is half visible from the pot.

• At the bottom of the pot, drainage is made of expanded clay with a layer of 1–2 cm, a mound of soil is poured, an onion is placed on it, the roots are carefully straightened and covered with earth to the middle.
• It is impossible to water the planted plant from above - the soil can be compacted, which will lead to decay of the roots. Better to water through the pallet.
• Young plants are transplanted annually in early spring with a complete replacement of soil, and strong adult hippeastrum - once every 2-3 years, soon after flowering... This must be done very carefully, trying not to damage the leaves. Between transplants, the top layer of soil in the pot is changed annually.

Resting care

The maintenance of the hippeastrum during the dormant period requires a low temperature (+10 degrees), darkness and dryness, but not a basement. Cut off all yellowed, dried leaves. Around December - early January, we take out the pot with hippeastrum from the darkness and put it on the shady windowsill. When the peduncle hatches and grows up to 10 centimeters, we rearrange it to the lighted side.

By the way, it is quite possible to grow hippeastrum without a dormant period. To do this, it is enough to constantly keep it in a sunny place, water it as needed. It will bloom with you with this care either in March-May, or in October-November.

We alternate flowering with rest

Hippeastrum loves systematic care. A dormant period is required, without it flowering simply will not come. After the first buds have appeared, the temperature must be kept at + 18 ° C. If conditions permit, it is better to take the pot out to the balcony, where your pet will have enough light and fresh air. It is recommended to increase watering as it grows, but it is also impossible to fill in the soil.

Hippeastrum at home begin to feed closer to the summer every two weeks. From the middle of the summer season, potash can be used to set the conditions for next year's flowering.

As soon as the plant has bloomed, it is recommended to give it rest so that it can gain strength until next year. In winter, the temperature should be around 12 ° C, the bulbs are best kept in a dry place, no watering is required. Exact adherence to the conditions will ensure bright flowering in the next season.

Dormant period

The resting period of the hippeastrum is from September to January. If your plant has spent summer holidays in the yard, then by the beginning of autumn it is time to bring it into the house. At the same time, they begin to gradually reduce watering, as a result of which the leaves of the plant dry out. After complete drying, the leaves fall off on their own, and the stem is cut off, the plant is transferred to a dry and dark room, the pot is placed on its side and stored at a temperature of 6-12 ºC without watering for 6 to 8 weeks until it is time for the hippeastrum to wake up.

From the beginning of autumn to January, the flower begins a dormant period.

• At this time, watering should be gradually reduced. This will be the impetus for the foliage on the plant to dry out and fall off. After that, the shoot will need to be cut off, and the hippeastrum itself will be kept in a dark and dry place, where the temperature will be about 10 degrees. Watering is not necessary.In this state, the plant will stay for about six to seven weeks, and then wake up.
• Hippeastrum needs a dormant period in order to bloom annually. It usually runs from late summer to late October. When preparing the hippeastrum for the dormant period from the end of summer, it is necessary to limit watering and feeding. In many hippeastrum leaves completely die off.
• Hippeastrum, if desired, can be grown without a pronounced dormant period. Then it needs to be kept all year round on a bright, sunny window in a warm room, watered with warm water as the earth dries, preferably in a pan. With this care, hippeastrum can bloom in autumn in October - November or in spring in March - May. The dark green leaves of hippeastrum remain healthy throughout the year and do not lose their beauty.

Summer flower maintenance

In summer, if desired, hippeastrum can be planted in open ground. In the open field, hippeastrum blooms better, the bulb grows rapidly in size, gives many daughter bulbs. In the fall, with the onset of cold weather, hippeastrum is brought into the house.

Hippeastrum after flowering.

As soon as the flowering is over, the plant needs to be prepared for rest, because the quality and timeliness of the next flowering directly depends on how correctly you prepare the hippeastrum for the dormant period.

From mid-September, watering stops completely, and after the leaves fall and the wilted peduncle is trimmed, the plant is placed in a dark, dry room with a low temperature, where the hippeastrum will remain until the end of January or the beginning of February. Then the pot with the bulb is placed in a well-lit place, watering and feeding are resumed, and the next period of active growth of the hippeastrum begins.

Dishes.

Narrow and tall pots are better suited for growing hippeastrum, because in addition to the bulb, the hippeastrum also has roots that are long enough and during dormancy they do not die off, but continue to feed the bulb.

You also need to observe the depth of planting of the hippeastrum. The bulb should rise from the ground by one third. And do not try to stuff the pot with earth too much, it is better to wait until it settles itself and fill the earth to the desired height. The size of the pots should not be too wide, it is quite enough if the distance between the wall of the pot and the bulb is only 2-3 cm. In a dish that is too wide, the hippeastrum may not bloom for a long time.

Earth mix:

sod land, peat, sand, humus in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1. Earthen mixture for hippeastrum should be nutritious, water and air permeable with a neutral or alkaline pH-reaction of the soil. Also, don't forget about the drainage layer. Also, when transplanting a hippeastrum, you can use ready-made purchased soil for bulbous.

Lighting.

Hippeastrum is a light-loving plant, so it is advisable to keep it in the southwestern, southern or southeastern windows. Light can be either direct sunlight or bright diffused light. Hippeastrum hybrids that lose their leaves during dormancy, you can move the pot with the hippeastrum bulb to a cooler and darker place.

Air temperature.

Hippeastrum grows well at room temperature. In summer, the usual room temperature is +20 +25 C. In winter, the air temperature can be slightly lower.

Watering and feeding

Watering the plant during the period of growing green mass needs minimal watering, but it must be increased a little before flowering. Before flowering, watering should be done abundantly, but only so that the ground is not wet.

• Only settled, not cold water can be used for the procedure. You need to water so that the liquid does not get on the bulb.
• At the end of flowering, you should begin to reduce watering and later stop altogether.
• The leaves of the hippeastrum, for hygienic purposes, should be wiped from time to time with a damp cloth. When the peduncle reaches 15 cm in height, the earth should be watered with a manganese solution.

And after five days, fertilize the flower with phosphorus fertilizing.And in general, feeding during the growing season should be carried out every 15 days with a means for deciduous plants. With the advent of foliage, agents for flowering plants are used.

Proper watering

During the period of active growth and lush flowering of the plant, watering should be strong and abundant, after the soil in the pot dries out. But gradually, with the approach of the rest period of the hippeastrum, the amount of water must be reduced, and after all the leaves have died out, completely stop. It is only permissible to add a small amount of water to the pan of the pot to maintain the viability of the rhizome.

• During the calm period of the flower, the earth should feel dry, since excess moisture can provoke the growth of a new leaf, which will subsequently harm the flowers of the hippeastrum. After the start of the growth of a new peduncle, we begin to water again, but little by little.
• At the beginning of winter, in order for the hippeastrum to wake up, come out of the dormant period, it is placed on a light window. During this period, the hippeastrum has no leaves, it is not watered, otherwise the bulb can be easily destroyed. Until the flower arrow appears, the hippeastrum does not need to be watered.
• After the appearance of the peduncle and before the flower arrow grows up to 7-10 cm, watering of the hippeastrum should be weak, otherwise the leaves will begin to grow to the detriment of the flowers. Watering is best done in a pan or along the edge of the pot, without getting water on the bulb. As the peduncle grows, watering increases.

After the flowering of the hippeastrum, leaves and a bulb begin to grow, new flower stalks are laid for the next year, during this period watering should be regular. By the end of summer, watering stops. At this time, the hippeastrum begins a period of rest. The pot with hippeastrum can be put in a cool place and not watered. If the room temperature is high, you can water it occasionally a little to keep the bulb from drying out. Hippeastrum does not need high air humidity, so it does not need air spraying, it prefers dry content.

Water procedures

Water the hippeastrum at the beginning of the growing season, it is necessary very sparsely, gradually increasing watering only from the moment the peduncle appears - a signal that the plant has begun the growing season. As the flower arrow grows and before flowering begins, watering should be abundant, but nevertheless moderate, so that the soil in the flowerpot is moist, not wet. It is best to do bottom watering or sump watering, gradually adding warm water until the clod gets wet. Avoid getting water on the bulb. After flowering, watering is also gradually reduced until it stops completely.

When the peduncle of the hippeastrum reaches 12-15 cm in height, pour the soil with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, and after 4-6 days feed the plant with phosphorus fertilizer. In general, feeding of hippeastrum is carried out at the beginning of the growing season twice a month with liquid mineral fertilizer for deciduous plants, and after the appearance of leaves and for better bud formation, with fertilizers for flowering plants in the same mode. Make sure that the concentration of minerals is not too strong, otherwise, instead of fertilizing the plant, you will burn its roots.

Do not forget to wash the leaves from dust under a warm shower or wipe them regularly with a damp sponge.

Top dressing and fertilizers for hippeastrum

You need to start feeding the flower immediately after it has faded. This is necessary for the accumulation of strength by the flower for the next year. During this period, after the end of flowering, large long leaves grow especially intensively, and they form bulbous scales, laying new flowers in the future.

• It is better to take the hippeastrum outside until September (the beginning of the quiet period).
• If you made a decision not to send hippeastrum to a dark place, then during the period of flowering and leaf growth, the plant must be fertilized once every 10 days. It is better to do this with a mullein solution (1 in 10).
• The first feeding of the hippeastrum can be done when the height of the flower arrow is about 15 cm.

If the hippeastrum was recently transplanted and there are enough nutrients in the soil, top dressing can be done later. When feeding, focus on phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They contribute to flowering, the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb, the laying of future flower stalks. But it is better to exclude nitrogen fertilizers, they can provoke gray rot, and the plant can be irretrievably lost.

Transfer

Hippeastrum transplant is carried out 3-4 years after planting, and then every year. This procedure must be performed before the beginning of the rest period or immediately after its end. The pot for transplanting needs to be taken a couple of centimeters larger than the past.

The composition of the soil for transplantation should contain 2 shares of perlite, according to the share of leaf and sod land and a share of humus. It is also necessary to put drainage in the container. It is necessary to move the flower by transshipment so that the rhizome of the hippeastrum is not damaged.

The bulb must be covered with a substrate so that a third of it is on the surface.

Immediately after the end of the flowering of the hippeastrum, it is necessary to cut off the wilted flowers, and plant the onion in a small pot 2/3 in the ground. If the plant is not strong enough, it is rarely recommended to replant it - once every 3 years. The diameter of the pot in which the hippeastrum bulb is placed should be 6-7 centimeters larger than the diameter of the bulb. The composition of the soil for planting is similar to that of amaryllis - leafy and soddy soil, sand, peat, humus (1: 1: 1: 1: 1).

Transfer.

Hippeastrum is transplanted every three to four years before the rest period or before leaving it. It is very important to choose the right pot for the flower: the distance from the bulb to the wall of the pot should not be more than 2 cm.The soil should be of approximately the same composition: two parts of perlite (or coarse sand), leaf and turf soil and one part of humus.

The soil must be sterilized before use. Don't forget about the drainage layer. Planting hippeastrum is carried out in a transshipment method in order to cause as little damage as possible to the root system of the plant. The bulb is placed in the ground so that at least one third of it is above the surface.

30-40 days after the end of flowering, hippeastrum can be transplanted. An annual transplant is not at all necessary, but in this case, change the top layer of the earth every year, because hippeastrum quickly depletes nutrients from the soil, and this will later affect flowering. You can also transplant hippeastrum before it leaves dormancy, that is, at the end of December.

Bloom

In order for the hippeastrum to bloom for sure, there are several floricultural tricks that we are ready to share. First, the bulbs can be treated with 43-45 ºC hot water for three hours before planting. After such a temperature extreme, the plant blooms in three weeks. The second method of exposure: from August, stop watering the plant, move it to a dry, dark place and keep it there until the end of January, then resume watering. In a month and a half you will be able to enjoy the flowering of hippeastrum.

• And the third way of persuasion: cut off all the leaves of the hippeastrum in July and do not water it for a month, but with the first watering, introduce a liquid complex top dressing (in order to avoid burns, first moisten the soil through and through, then add fertilizer). In August or September, your hippeastrum will bloom like cute.
• To be sure that the hippeastrum will bloom, you can resort to some tricks. Let's say hold the bulbs in warm water for three hours, the water temperature should be about 44 degrees.
• You can also stop watering the flower in August by moving it to a dry, warm room. So the hippeastrum should stay until January - at this time it will be possible to start watering it again.

To help the plant bloom, you can cut off all the foliage in July and stop watering for 30 days. Watering the flower for the first time after a break, add complex fertilizer to the soil.

Which breeding method should you choose?

Indoor hippeastrum reproduces in various ways, usually no difficulties arise. The most difficult can be called the use of seeds, since to obtain them it is necessary to provide artificial pollination of the flower. This method is not recommended in the absence of experience. In addition, the first flowering after planting the seeds occurs only after 2-3 years.

Simple breeding methods that are available even to beginners are dividing the bulbs, vegetative propagation by children. Children can appear in a plant at any time of the year, their number depends on which variety is grown, what conditions are met.

Children are separated during transplantation. They must be carefully cut or broken off, after which all the cuts must be sprinkled with crushed coal. The pots are taken small so that the distance between the wall and the bulb (baby) is only 2-3 cm. Dutch varieties are propagated using scales, since they have a minimum number of children. The question of how to care for hippeastrum at this time is easy to solve. The soil is taken as for an adult plant, no special conditions need to be created.

seed propagation

Hippeastrum can be propagated using seeds or vegetatively.

You need to sow seeds as soon as they are harvested, since fresh seeds germinate very well. If the material is allowed to dry, then its germination will immediately drop dramatically. There are no special wishes for the sowing process - the seeds just need to be placed in the soil.

Hippeastrum lends itself to reproduction by seeds, but to obtain them, the flowers will need to be forcibly pollinated, and the seedling rarely blooms in the first two years and does not retain maternal characteristics.

Children

The easiest way to reproduce this flower is by children. However, more and more gardeners are practicing dividing the bulb. For a successful separation, a good, strong onion is needed, which should be cut in half so that an equal piece of scales and a bottom remains on each part. Sprinkle a fresh onion cut with charcoal or activated charcoal, and then plant the slices in a light peat mixture. In about 1.5-2 months, new babies will appear. Plant them in new pots when spring comes.

By dividing the bulb

But it is better to use the vegetative method for reproduction.

• When transplanting, you just need to take the children from the bulb and plant them, having previously powdered with charcoal.
• And another vegetative way is the division of the bulb.
• At the end of autumn, you need to open the bulb, remove dry scales from it and make 4 vertical cuts. A knitting needle is pushed into each slice (only not an iron one).

The bulb is looked after as an adult hippeastrum. With the appearance of leaves, you need to start fertilizing the plant. Next spring it will be possible to separate the material and plant it in separate containers.

How to further increase the number of plants

Hippeastrum is easily propagated by daughter bulbs, which are completely identical to the parent plant. Babies larger than two centimeters are separated from the main bulb during transplantation. Young plants bloom in 2-3 years.

But what if some varietal hippeastrum does not form babies? In this case, the hippeastrum can be propagated as follows: cut a healthy bulb of the hippeastrum with a clean and sharp knife into two or four parts so that each lobe has a part of the bottom. Carefully process the slices of the onion with crushed charcoal and dry for two to three days. After the cut has dried, each lobe can be added to a mixture of sand and peat or perlite. It is not necessary to deepen such a bulb, it should simply lie with its bottom on the surface of the earthen mixture.

But you can not completely cut the hippeastrum bulb to the end, but make only deep cuts, so that the bulb is divided into two or four parts, but does not fall apart at all. The sections are likewise processed with crushed coal and also dried for two to three days.After that, the bulb is simply placed on an earthen mixture of sand and peat or perlite. Watering of such bulbs is carried out only through the pallet. After a while, babies appear at the base of the cut onion.

Other methods

Hippeastrum can be pollinated and propagated by seed. In this case, sometimes a completely unpredictable result is obtained (so to speak, a breeder for himself).

• After pollination of the hippeastrum, a seed capsule is formed on the peduncle.
• In this case, the peduncle does not need to be removed, wait until the seeds ripen.
• But remember that such a procedure can greatly weaken the bulb, which will further affect flowering again: the flowers will be smaller, or the plant will not bloom at all.
• An experiment with hippeastrum seeds is good to carry out in the open field, where the bees fly, and the bulb will pick up nutrients from the ground during the ripening of the seeds.

Seeds of hippeastrum are sown immediately after harvest, otherwise they quickly lose their germination. Embedding seeds to a depth of one centimeter, seedlings appear in two to three weeks. Hippeastrum seedlings are photophilous, so place them in a bright place. To make small hippeastrum grow better, you can do top dressing with a weak solution of liquid mineral fertilizers. Young hippeastrum does not need a rest period.

Reproduction

Hippeastrum reproduces by seed and vegetative methods. Sowing seeds is best done immediately after they are harvested, as long as they have one hundred percent germination. If the seeds are allowed to dry out, then the ability to germinate becomes only thirty percent. Actually, sowing seeds is a simple, routine procedure, so there is no point in talking about it, especially since the seed method can be used only if there are seeds, and they can appear if you do artificial pollination of a flower.

It is much easier to carry out reproduction in a vegetative way, namely, by separating the babies of the hippeastrum from the mother's bulb. This is done during the transplant. Separated with a sterile sharp instrument, the baby, having processed the cuts on it with crushed coal, is placed in a separate pot and for two years we do not deprive the young plant of its foliage even during the dormant period.

There is another way of vegetative propagation of the hippeastrum - by dividing the bulb. It is carried out in November, when the bulb contains the maximum amount of nutrients. Remove the top layer of the substrate so that only the bottom of the bulb remains in the soil. Remove the outer dry scales.

Cut off the leaves by grabbing some of the top of the bulb. Cut the onion vertically into four equal parts so that the cuts reach the surface of the substrate, insert plastic or wooden knitting needles with a diameter of 5-6 cm vertically into the cuts so that the parts of the onion do not overlap.

Take care of the bulb as if it were an adult plant, without allowing the substrate to dry out. As soon as leaves appear, fertilize and continue fertilizing as usual. Divide the onion and plant the parts in individual flowerpots next spring.

Growing difficulties

The most common problems in growing hippeastrum are red rot, downy mildew and red burn fungus. And, of course, the aforementioned pests - scale insects, aphids, worms and spider mites, which are destroyed with special insecticides.

• You can determine what the plant is sick with by how the hippeastrum looks like. If there are red spots on the leaves and on the bulb, then this is a fungal burn, if the white bloom is powdery mildew, and if the leaves hang sluggishly, and rot is visible on the scales of the bulb, then this is rot.
• If there are signs of rot disease, all affected areas, diseased roots should be removed, the bulb should be dried, and immediately before planting in a new sterile substrate, the bulb should be etched with foundation. They are saved from powdery mildew with special preparations available on the market.

And the red burn is eliminated by removing the bulb from the ground and cutting out all the foci to healthy tissue.Then the wounds are sprinkled with a mixture of chalk and copper sulphate in accordance with 20: 1 and the bulb is dried for a week, after which they are planted in a fresh substrate, previously treated with fungicides.

Diseases and pests

Various problems can arise with hippeastrum.

• For example, the lack of flowering - usually this happens with a lack of fertilizer or poor soil. Also, flowering does not start if the bulb is rotten.
• The yellowing of the leaves of the plant is most likely associated with root decay or the appearance of pests sucking juices, but in this case, yellowing is followed by drying of the foliage.
• Sticky marks on the leaves appear due to the scale insects.
• Also, hippeastrum can infect aphids, mealybugs, spider mites.

Pests.

The main pests of hippeastrum are spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects, and onion mites. Pests visible to the naked eye can be removed manually with a sponge or cotton swab dipped in an alcohol solution, after which the plant is repeatedly treated with a solution of actellik, phytoverm or karbofos.

When planting in open ground, do not plant hippeastrum next to other bulbs, for example, lilies, otherwise the hippeastrum may be damaged by an onion mite. The bottom of the bulb begins to rot and gradually the entire bulb rot.

Diseases.

One of the most dangerous diseases of the hippeastrum is the red burn of the bulbs, or staganosporosis. At the first detection of red streaks and dots on the bulb of the hippeastrum, cut out all foci of infection to healthy tissue without regret. Trim off all affected leaves and dead roots. All slices and the bulb itself must be treated with phytosporin, foundation, Maxim.

Dry the processed hippeastrum bulb for a week, see if new foci of infection appear. If everything went well, then plant the hippeastrum bulb in a new pot and a new substrate. At first, the minimum watering and only in a tray with solutions of phytosporin, foundation to ensure disinfection. Planting the bulb in this case should be as high as possible, this will allow you to control the condition of the bulb. If everything goes well, then the soil can then be filled up to the desired height. The main thing is to save the onion.

In addition to a red burn, hippeastrum can be affected by anthracnose and fusarium. The treatment is almost the same as for a red burn: removal of damaged tissues, repeated treatments with phytosporin, foundation, Maxim.

Remember, diseases appear from an incorrectly selected soil mixture, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers, improper watering (too abundant, or water has got into the middle of the bulb), from a lack of light. If the conditions of detention are chosen correctly, then hippeastrum will delight you with its flowering for a long time.

Growing problems: how to fix them?

Hippeastrum, planting and caring for which is not so difficult, can lose its decorative appearance if the necessary conditions are not followed. The most common problems are:

Red rot

that infects bulbs is considered a frequent visitor. The leaves become lethargic, traces of rot appear on the bulb and its scales. What to do in this case? At the first signs of infection, it is necessary to immediately remove all affected foci, carefully cut out diseased areas to healthy tissue, remove all dead roots.

The onion should be dried (5-7 days is enough), before planting, experts recommend etching it with foundation. After that, the hippeastrum is planted in a new substrate so that most of the bulb remains above the surface. Only the roots and the bottom of the onion remain in the soil. So it will be more convenient to observe the plant for the first time.

Downy mildew

appears when humidity is too high, there is no ventilation. If you find signs of the disease, then you need to treat the plant with any specialized powdery mildew remedy (you can buy it in flower shops). The conditions of detention also need to be changed.

Red fungal burn

Is one of the most common diseases. It manifests itself in the form of red spots on the leaves and onion.

• Treatment should be started immediately, as the plant may die.
• The bulb must be removed from the soil, cleaned of diseased and dry scales, cut out all foci.
• The wounds should be sprinkled with a mixture of chalk (twenty parts) and copper sulfate (one part).

After that, the onion is dried for about a week, then it is planted in fresh soil. It is recommended to steam the substrate, you can additionally treat it with fungicides. Planting is carried out so that the bottom remains in the soil, the roots of the onion.

Does not bloom

It also happens that the hippeastrum at home does not begin to bloom. This happens for various reasons: excessive watering or lack of water, the bulbs are too small. Change the growing conditions, try to periodically make special feeding. The lack of flowering is also the result of the fact that your pet did not enter a state of rest.

Of the pests, it should be noted such as spider mites, thrips, aphids. It is easy to find them, the treatment is the treatment with special drugs.

If it does not bloom, then why?

Sometimes this happens due to a lack of nutrients, because the hippeastrum is a gluttonous plant, and there is very little soil in the pot, so it is quickly depleted. For this reason, fertilizing should be sufficient and regular, as should watering. And it happens that a plant throws all its strength into the fight against pests, such as a spider mite, a scale insect or a scale insect, and then it has no time for flowering. Hippeastrum does not bloom even when the soil is waterlogged, when the bulb begins to rot.

The beauty of the hippeastrum flower can bewitch. The plant blooms only once a year, but how! However, sometimes unpleasant surprises can be comprehended: the flower did not appear, or the plant began to fade. To prevent this from happening, you need to know the nuances of caring for hippeastrum, its growth characteristics.

Plant characteristic

Hippeastrum is usually attributed to bulbous plants, so it has its own characteristics of care and reproduction. In total, about 90 species of this plant are known. Accordingly, the size of the bulb may vary. It can reach a diameter of about 5-10 cm.

Hippeastrum, which is also transplanted with bulbs, has linear leaves. Their color is predominantly green, but some specimens may have a purple color. The inflorescences of the plant are umbrella-shaped, the length of the peduncle is from 35 to 80 cm.

The color of the flowers of a given plant can be very different. Sometimes she can simply amaze with colors and unusual combinations.

Features of home hippeastrum

The hippeastrum flower, a photo of which can be seen in this article, has a number of features that you just need to know in order to grow it.

If you prefer plants with light flowers, then keep in mind that very few seeds suitable for planting are obtained from them. In the summer, it is most advisable to relocate this plant to the garden, having dug it in on your personal plot.

Blooming hippeastrum can be a great gift for any holiday. After all, the timing of its flowering is easily regulated. The flowering period lasts about ten days for each flower. For forcing, bulbs of a rather large size are used, since it is in them that there is a sufficiently large supply of essential nutrients.

How to take care of hippeastrum at home?

Growing hippeastrum is a rather difficult and painstaking process. Because of this, many do not dare to have a blooming hippeastrum at home. For its growth, you should choose a well-lit place, best of all in the southern direction. However, you should not allow direct sunlight to fall on the leaves. The temperature should ideally be maintained at 17-25 ° C.

Hippeastrum, transplanting which for the summer period in open ground is very favorable, should be protected from excessive waterlogging. At first, it needs to be watered very little, increasing the volume only with the appearance of a peduncle, which will give a signal that the growing season is beginning.

Hippeastrum bulbs do not like direct contact with water. Make sure that the ground is moist, but never wet. The bottom method of watering from the pan, which is more gentle, will work. After the end of flowering, watering can be significantly reduced, and then completely stopped.

Hippeastrum transplant technique

Hippeastrum, planting and caring for which requires some effort, will certainly thank you with an unusually beautiful and exuberant flowering. An important point for transplanting it is the choice of a pot. There should not be a distance exceeding 2 cm between the bulb and the wall. Hippeastrum, which is transplanted every three to four years, is seated either before the dormant period, or just before leaving it.

For transplanting a plant, it is better to use the transshipment method so that the root system is minimally injured. About a third of the bulb should be above the soil surface.

Reproduction

Hippeastrum, planting and caring for which are described in this article, has two methods of reproduction: seed and vegetative. In this case, it is better to sow the seeds immediately after you have collected them. So their germination reaches almost 100%. If the seeds dry out, then the germination rate drops sharply - up to 30%. However, the flower needs artificial pollination for seeds to appear.

You can also separate the so-called babies from the main bulb. This can be done, for example, during a transplant. The baby is placed in a separate pot. It is noteworthy that for two years the leaves on it are not removed even during the dormant period.

Dormant period

The hippeastrum flower, a photo of which can be seen in this article, is characterized by a dormant period. It lasts from September to January. Plants that were outdoors in summer must be brought indoors by September. At this time, watering should be minimized, and then completely stopped. In this regard, the leaves of the flower will dry out, which must be removed and the stem cut off. After that, the pot should be sent to a dark and dry place with a temperature of 6-12 ° C. There is no need to water it. The plant is in this state for 6-8 weeks. After that, the awakening period begins.

Flowering period of hippeastrum

Hippeastrum, which was transplanted before the dormant period, needs to activate flowering. Especially tricks to speed up this process are resorted to if there is a celebration on the eve, to which it is simply necessary to make a distillation.

In order to bring flowering closer, the bulbs of the hippeastrum before planting in the ground can be treated with water at a temperature of 43-45 ° C for three hours. Temperature extremes will trigger flowering in about three weeks.

You can also stop watering your pet at the end of August, and then move to a dry and dark place until the end of January. After that, watering is resumed again. After one and a half months, the plant is again ready to please you with its flowers.

Some growers also practice a different technique. In July, all the leaves of the plant are cut off and watering is stopped, and with the resumption of watering, a liquid complex top dressing is introduced. However, to avoid burns, the kidney must first be well moistened. The flowering period in this case will be around August or September.

Why does hippeastrum refuse to bloom?

Interruptions in flowering can be associated with soil depletion. After all, this plant consumes quite a lot of nutrients, and their supply in a small pot is very limited. To avoid this, you need to regularly feed. This can be done along with watering.

Pests can be the reason for the lack of flowering.It is on the fight against them that the plant can throw all its main forces, but they simply will not remain for flowering.

Flowering will not occur due to waterlogging of the soil, as well as due to rotting of the bulb.

The timing of the onset and the quality of subsequent flowering are directly dependent on how correctly the plant was introduced during the dormant period and how it spent it. From mid-September, watering should be completely stopped, the wilted peduncle should be cut off and the fallen leaves should be removed. Thus, the plant goes into a dormant period, which will last until you move the pot out of a dark, cool room to a well-lit place and resume watering. Hippeastrum will begin a period of active growth again.

When growing a flower indoors, amateurs often encounter diseases and pests. So that they do not cause a lot of trouble and ruin your pet, you should periodically carry out prophylaxis in the form of examination and antiviral treatment. Hippeastrum, which is transplanted with an inspection of the bulb, can be treated with solutions of antifungal drugs.

Hippeastrum is a bulbous plant of the amaryllis family with long leaves and large flowers of extraordinary beauty, crowning a tall peduncle. Blooming hippeastrum will not leave indifferent even those who are not fond of flowers. This spectacular houseplant is native to Central America, where about 75 species of hippeastrum are found. The name of the genus comes from the Greek. hipperos is a cavalier and astron is a star.

Hippeastrum, Latin - Hippeástrum.

Amaryllis family. Homeland - tropical America. About 75 species are widespread in nature. Currently, there are a large number of varieties that differ in the shape and color of the flowers, all of them are combined into the species Hippeastrum hortorum garden Hippeastrum hortorum. This plant has a large bulb, up to 20 cm in diameter, which is only half deep into the soil. Belt-shaped leaves are collected in a basal rosette, about 50 cm long. Flowers are collected in 2-4 pieces in an umbrella-shaped inflorescence on a long (up to 1 m) peduncle. The perianths are wide, up to 20 cm in diameter, bell-shaped, of a wide variety of shades: white, pink, red, burgundy, yellow, variegated. It has large stamens with bright yellow anthers. Blooms in February - early March.

History

The cultivation of amaryllis and hippeastrum in countries with a temperate and cold climate became possible only from the end of the 17th century, when the active construction of greenhouses in botanical gardens and private estates began.... Foreign rarities were brought by seafarers, botanists and hunters for plants encouraged by traders. In the 18th century, many of Linnaeus's students took part in difficult and dangerous expeditions that sometimes ended tragically. The genus Amaryllis - the predecessor of Hippeastrum - was established in 1737 in the work "Hemera plantarum". The plants assigned to it were previously called by botanists lilies (Lilium) and lilionarcissus (Lilio narcissus).

In the description of the garden of the burgomaster of Amsterdam G. Clifforth, Linnaeus mentions four types of amaryllis, including A. beautiful (A. belladonna), and in the famous book "Species plantarum" (1753), he already lists nine species of amaryllis. Later, in the process of botanical research, descriptions of amaryllis from Mexico, Venezuela, Peru, Brazil and other countries appeared.

In 1821 W. Herbert established a new genus - Hippeastrum. He attributed to it more than 15 American species, discovered by himself or published earlier, including some of Linnaeus's amaryllis. Their former names have become synonymous. Later, many hippeastrums were described by other botanists, for example, R. Baker - 25 species, R. Filippi - about 15, H. Moore - more than 10. Now there are descriptions of about 80 species of hippeastrum and one type of amaryllis.

The modern names of the hippeastrum were not received immediately after the description of this genus by Herbert.For a very long time, confusion and confusion reigned in the taxonomy of these plants. True, some species, previously called amaryllis, were attributed to hippeastrum, others "migrated" to neighboring, closely related genera.

Bulb selection, planting, transplanting

When choosing hippeastrum bulbs, get down to business seriously. Examine each onion carefully. They should be smooth, heavy, with dry brownish-golden scales, with good living roots..

When buying hippeastrum in a pot, already with leaves, pay attention to its appearance. In a healthy plant, the leaves are bright green, shiny, hold well on their bases.... In the weak and sick, drooping and dull.

If the bulb has a red border and a dotted pattern - these are signs of a fungal disease (red burn or red rot). It is better to refrain from such a purchase: the plant will have to be treated for a long time.

The next step is landing. Hippeastrum grows in any garden soil... But maximum decorativeness can be achieved if the composition of the soil is as follows: turf soil, humus, peat in a ratio of 1: 2: 1 with the addition of wood ash and bone meal. The latter can be replaced with double superphosphate (2 tsp for a 1 liter container). Phosphorus provides plants with a lush bloom.

The pot for the hippeastrum should not be too large: the distance between its walls and the bulb is the thickness of the finger. Otherwise, the flower will grow the root system, lush leaves, acquire children, and refuse to bloom. But at the same time, the capacity should be quite stable, since the plant is large, and the flowers in some varieties reach 20-22 cm in diameter. They are especially heavy in terry forms. And when planting, the bulb is buried 1/2 of the height, that is, it is half visible from the pot.

At the bottom of the pot, drainage is made of expanded clay with a layer of 1–2 cm, a mound of soil is poured, an onion is placed on it, the roots are carefully straightened and covered with earth to the middle.

It is impossible to water the planted plant from above - the soil can be compacted, which will lead to decay of the roots. Better to water through a sump.

Young plants are transplanted annually in early spring with a complete replacement of soil, and strong adult hippeastrum - once every 2-3 years, soon after flowering... This must be done very carefully, trying not to damage the leaves. Between transplants, the top layer of soil in the pot is changed annually.

Care Tips

Temperature: During the growing season, the optimum is 17-23 ° C. During the dormant period, the bulbs are stored at 10 ° C.

Lighting: Bright diffused light. Shade from direct sunlight. After flowering, full sunlight is needed for the development and maturation of the bulbs.

Watering: Abundant during flowering - the soil must be moist at all times. During the rest period, keep dry.

Rest period: The stem is cut only when it is completely dry. Gradually reduce watering, then stop watering altogether. The rest period should last 6-8 weeks between February. Then the bulb can be taken out of the pot, the “babies” are separated and the mother plant is transplanted.

Fertilizer: Once every one to two weeks with a liquid fertilizer for flowering indoor plants, diluted at the concentration recommended by the manufacturer. Top dressing begins as soon as the buds bloom, and ends when the leaves begin to wilt.

Air humidity: If the plant is in a room with dry air, then you can lightly spray the buds from above. Do not spray flowers or leaves, as well as bulbs during dormancy.

Transfer: About once every 3-4 years, during the dormant period. Soil from 2 parts of clay-sod, 1 part of leafy land, 1 part of humus, 1 part of peat and 1 part of sand.

Growing

Hippeastrum are warm and light-requiring, but they should be protected from direct sunlight.... It is also necessary to avoid overheating the pot as the bulb and roots of the plant are sensitive to overheating. Feel great on windows facing south, southeast or southwest.

During growth and flowering, it tolerates room temperatures well (up to 25 ° C). In the summer, it can be taken out into the open air, it should be protected from precipitation, in order to avoid waterlogging of the soil. During the growing season, they need a lot of light and heat, besides, they are more adapted to moderate drying than to waterlogging..

For varieties in which the leaves die off, after flowering, watering is gradually reduced, then, when the leaves dry out, the plant is transferred to a dry dark room with a temperature of 10-12 ° C, you can keep the bulb at a temperature of 5-9 ° C. It is necessary to ensure that the substrate in which the bulb is located does not dry out... Plants are gently watered from a saucer. Dry leaves are carefully removed.

To get out of the dormant period, pots with bulbs are placed in a warm place., preferably with a temperature of 25-30 ° C, do not water until the peduncle appears, after which they are moderately watered for several days with warm water. When flower arrows appear on the bulbs, they are exposed to the window. When the peduncles reach 5-8 cm, the plants begin to moderately watered with water at room temperature. With earlier and more abundant watering, the flower arrow grows more slowly, but the leaves grow well. In some varieties, they appear only during flowering. As the peduncle grows, watering is gradually increased until the flowers appear, however, waterlogging must be avoided.

When the flower arrow reaches a length of 12-15 cm, the plants are watered with a weak light pink solution of potassium permanganate, and 5-6 days after this procedure, phosphorus fertilizers are applied. Plants usually bloom one month after the arrow appears.... Some bulbs have two arrows.

Watering plants should always be done carefully so that no water gets on the bulb.... It will be optimal to water from a pallet with warm water, adding it until the entire earthen lump is wet. When watering from above, avoid getting water on the bulb.

Air humidity does not play a significant role in plant life. For dust, it is better to periodically wash the leaves under a warm shower or wipe with a soft sponge.

Hippeastrum roots are extremely sensitive to lack of oxygen and die off in heavy, dense soil mixtures... The soil for hippeastrum is made up of sod land, well-rotted humus, peat and coarse sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1. It is helpful to add one of the long-acting phosphate fertilizers (superphosphate, bone meal). The pot is selected in accordance with the size of the bulb: the distance between it and the walls of the pot should be no more than 3 cm. Shards, gravel or expanded clay must be placed on the bottom for drainage with a layer of up to 3 cm. Sand is poured under the bottom of the bulb with a layer of 1 cm. When planting, the bulb is buried half of its height.

Top dressing during the growing season at the beginning (leaf formation) once every two weeks with liquid mineral fertilizer for deciduous plants, and when the formation of leaves is delayed - fertilizer for flowering plants, which will promote the formation of flower buds. There is also such an option: feeding begins with the appearance of leaves and is given twice a month, alternating liquid organic and mineral fertilizers (Effect, Palm, Fertility, etc.).

The special value of the hippeastrum is biologically "programmed" development. By changing the timing of planting bulbs, they can be made to bloom at almost any time of the year.... It is precisely verified how long it takes from planting a standard bulb (over 7 cm in diameter) to flowering. With an industrial culture in greenhouses, strictly specified regimes of temperature, humidity, soil, etc. are maintained. It is impossible to create such conditions at home, but many still manage to grow hippeastrum. To do this, you need to know well their structure, biology and agricultural technology. When buying, you need to choose a high-quality bulb: not damaged, not less than 7 cm in diameter and, of course, without signs of damage by a "red burn". If the choice is made, do not rush to plant the bulb right away.First, put it in a bright place, bottom up, and dry it for 6-8 days, then plant it in clean sand to stimulate the development of roots that appear by the end of winter, then the bulb is transplanted.

It is not necessary to replant adult hippeastrum annually. This can be done every 2-3 years, but then, after another period of dormancy, it is necessary to replace the top layer of the earth with a fresh nutrient mixture consisting of equal parts of sod, leaf, humus earth and sand.

Three options for growing hippeastrum indoors

1. The bulb is planted in a pot with soil, placed on a window and during the year the plant is looked after in such a way that it does not enter a dormant period. Leaves develop continuously. With this care, hippeastrum blooms in winter, spring (April) or summer.
2. In order for the plant to bloom without fail in winter, in the fall the bulb is planted in a pot, placed in a very warm place and not watered until a sprout appears. Then the pot is transferred to the window and watered with warm water from the pallet. After flowering until August - the usual care (watering, feeding). In August, watering is reduced, and in September, only slightly moistened with an earthen clod, dried leaves are cut off. A dormant period begins, lasting 1.5-2 months. In October, the bulb is transplanted into fresh soil.
3. The bulb is not transplanted in the fall, but the pot with the plant is placed in a warm place and moistened only occasionally from the pallet, not allowing the earth to dry out completely. With the appearance of signs of new growth, the hippeastrum is transplanted. In this case, the plant is carefully removed from the pot, the earth is shaken off. If the lump is tightly braided with roots, then it is carefully squeezed from the sides with palms, washed with warm water and left to dry for the whole day. After drying the roots, the dead and damaged ones are removed. The slices are sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Reproduction

Seed propagation is mainly used in breeding work. Seeds are sown immediately after harvest.

Most often, hippeastrum is propagated vegetatively: by children, scales and division of large bulbs. The number of children formed in the hippeastrum is small and depends on the species, variety, and also growing conditions... Babies can appear at any time of the year. At the next transplant, the children are separated - they are carefully broken off or cut off. Slices must be sprinkled with charcoal powder. Very few children form large-flowered Dutch varieties, so they are propagated by scales. The bulb is thoroughly washed, the leaves are cut to the root collar, the roots are greatly shortened (up to 2 cm). Then it is cut into 8-16 parts with a knife, it is previously disinfected with alcohol. Each of the received parts must have a part of the bottom. They are powdered with a root stimulator (root). After that, the delenki of the bulbs are planted in containers with thoroughly washed coarse sand or moss (sphagnum) so that their tops remain on the surface. Rooting should take place at a temperature of at least 20 “C.

When dividing a large onion, it is planted high - so that the bottom is on the surface of the substrate... The upper part (leaves and root collar) is cut off, freed from the integumentary scales, and two deep vertical incisions intersecting in the center are made. In this way, four equal shares are obtained, each of which has roots. To make the wounds dry quickly, wooden sticks are inserted (crosswise) into the incisions. The onion prepared in this way is placed in a bright place and watered from a tray. After a while, children form at the base of each lobe. The last two ways to propagate hippeastrum are best in November, when the scales contain the maximum supply of nutrients.

Varieties

Hippeastrum leopoldii (Нippeastrum leopoldii)
The bulb is round, 5-8 cm in diameter with a short neck. Leaves are belt-shaped, 45-60 cm long. The peduncle is strong two-flowered. Flowers 11-14 cm long and 17-18 cm in diameter, red in the middle, white at the top. Corolla pharynx is greenish-white. Blooms in autumn. Grows on rocky mountain slopes in the Peruvian Andes.

Hippeastrum spotted (Нippeastrum pardinum)
Plants up to 50 cm tall. Leaves develop after the appearance of flowers, belt-like, 40-60 cm long and up to 5 cm wide, tapering at the base to 2-2.5 cm. Peduncle two-flowered. Flowers on pedicels 3-5 cm long, funnel-shaped; perianth 10-12 cm long; pharynx greenish yellow; petals are elongated-claw-shaped, 3.5-4.5 cm wide, greenish-white, cream, with a reddish tinge and numerous small red spots; the outer petals are wider than the inner ones. It blooms in winter and spring. Found on rocky mountain slopes in the Peruvian Andes.

Hippeastrum nopugaiform (Нippeastrum psittacinum)
Plants 60-90 cm tall. The bulb is large, 7-11 cm in diameter. Leaves are belt-shaped, often 6-8, 30-50 cm long and 2.5-4 cm wide, grayish-green. The peduncle is strong, with 2-4 flowers. Flowers 10-14 cm long; the tube is wide-funnel-shaped, green-red in the pharynx; petals are oblong, 2.5-3 cm wide, pointed, with red edges, with a green or yellowish-green keel, cherry-red stripes in the middle. Blooms in spring. It grows in the forests of southern Brazil.

Hippeastrum royal (Нippeastrum reginae)
Plants are 30-50 cm tall. The bulb is round, 5-8 cm in diameter (the mother bulb weakly forms daughter bulbs). Leaves linear-lanceolate, 60 cm long and 3.5-4 cm wide in the middle, tapering to 1.5 cm at the base (appear after flowers). Peduncle with 2-4 flowers. Perianth 10-14 cm long; tube funnel-shaped, red, in the pharynx whitish-green star-shaped pattern; petals obovate, pointed, 2.5-3 cm wide in the middle. It blooms in winter and spring. Grows in mountain forests in Mexico, the Antilles, Central America, Brazil, Peru.

Hippeastrum reticulum (Нippeastrum reticulatum)
Plants are 30-50 cm tall. The bulb is small, with a short neck. Leaves are lanceolate, often 4-6, 30 cm long and 5 cm wide, tapering towards the base, thin, green. The peduncle bears 3-5 flowers. Perianth 8-11 cm long; petals obovate, claw-shaped, 2.5 cm wide in the middle, mallow-red, with numerous dark veins. Blooms in autumn until December. Grows in the forests of southern Brazil.

Hippeastrum reticular (Нippeastrum reticulatum var. Striatifolium)
It differs from Нippeastrum reticulatum in leaves with a distinct white longitudinal stripe in the middle, large, pink-red fragrant flowers.

Hippeastrum reddish (Нippeastrum striatum / striata / rutilum)
Plants are 30-60 cm tall. The bulb is round, 5-9 cm in diameter, with a short neck and pale outer scales. Leaves 30-40 cm long and 4-5 cm wide, light green. Peduncle grayish-green, 30 cm long, flattened, with 2-6 flowers. Perianth 7-12 cm long; petals 2-2.5 cm wide in the middle, pointed; inner petals tapering at the bottom, with a green keel up to half of the petal. It blooms in winter and spring. It is found in forests in humid shady places in southern Brazil.

Hippeastrum reddish pointed variety (Hippeastrum striatum var.acuminatum)
Leaves are belt-lanceolate, 30-60 cm long and 3.5-5 cm wide, covered with a whitish bloom on top, dark red at the base. Peduncle 50-90 cm long, rounded, with 4-6 flowers (sometimes 2 peduncles develop). The flowers are larger than those of Hippeastrum striatum, yellowish-red, at the base with a yellowish-green star-shaped pattern.

Hippeastrum reddish, lemon variety (Hippeastrum striatum var citrinum)
The flowers are lemon yellow.

Hippeastrum reddish (Hippeastrum striatum var fulgidum)
The bulbs are large, 7-11 cm in diameter (forms daughter bulbs, with which the plant is mainly propagated). The leaves are the same as those of Hippeastrum striatum, but slightly wider. Perianth 10-14 cm long; petals ovate, 8-11 cm long, scarlet, with a green keel in the lower part; outer petals 2.5-3 cm wide; internal 1.5-2 cm wide at the bottom.

Hippeastrum elegans / solandriflorum
Plants are 45-70 cm tall. Bulb ovoid, large, 7-11 cm in diameter, with a short neck. Leaves are belt-shaped, up to 45 cm long and 3–3.2 cm wide. Peduncle with 4 flowers perched on pedicels 2.5-5 cm long.Flowers funnel-shaped, large, 18-25 cm long, whitish-yellow or greenish-white, with a long, 9-12 cm long, cylindrical tube, green, covered with purple spots or stripes, fragrant; petals obovate, 10-13 cm long and 2.5-4 cm wide, with red stripes. It blooms in January and also in May and June. Inhabits the forests of Northern Brazil up to Colombia and Venezuela.

Hippeastrum striped (Hippeastrum vittatum)
Plants 50-100 cm tall. The bulb is round, 5-8 cm in diameter. Leaves, 6-8, belt-like, green, 40-70 cm long (appear after flowers). Peduncle with 2-6 flowers on pedicels 5-8 cm long. Perianth 10-17 cm long, with funnel-shaped tube 2.5 cm long. Petals oblong-ovate, pointed at the apex, 2.5-4 cm wide, white at the edges, with a white longitudinal stripe between the edges and the median keel, in lilac-red stripes. Blooms in summer.
Grows in forests on rocky mountain slopes in the Peruvian Andes.

Top dressing

Top dressing is a necessary component of care, since hippeastrum is a large plant, "eats" well and a lot, and the volume of soil in a pot is minimal.

But organic fertilizers will have to be immediately excluded, since this contributes to the occurrence of fungal diseases, and bulbous ones are very susceptible to them.

The best mineral fertilizers for them will be balanced in composition - for example, "Kemira" universal or combined... But here it is also important not to overdo it with the concentration of the solution, because the volume of the soil is small and you can burn the roots. Keep the portions small - 1 g per liter of water, but frequent - once a week during the growing season.

Diet bulbs will not bloom, or it will be a miserable semblance of bloom. A good indicator of proper bulb development is the number of leaves. There should be 7-8.

If the plant was fed correctly, then in September-October the hippeastrum will lay a powerful flower arrow - or even two or three. And on each peduncle there are up to six large flowers.

Pests and diseases

After planting the bulb, the plant does not grow, although the conditions are good - take out the bulb and check its condition, it should be healthy and firm to the touch. If, within 1.5 months after planting, the bulb does not start to grow, then it is clearly not viable.

In the second year, the shoot does not grow from the bulb - this happens if there was a lack of nutrition during the first year. Always keep feeding the plant until the old leaves are completely dry..

The leaves of the plant turn pale green, the flowers droop - perhaps the plant has not been watered for a long time. During flowering, watering is slightly more abundant so that the soil is moist all the time.

The plant grows well at first, then growth suddenly slows down - damage to the bulb by pests is possible. Check for larvae in the soil and treat the soil with insecticide.

Flowers darken or turn black if it is too cold and / or damp. Cut off damaged flowers and move the plant to a warmer place.

Flowers turn pale if there is too much sun. Shade the hippeastrum from direct sunlight.

Leaves become very pale and lethargic if too damp. Make large drainage holes and drainage in the pot. Allow the soil to dry almost completely before watering again.

Hippeastrum does not bloom - if a dormant period was not provided, if the plant was not fed in the previous year, if the place chosen for it is not light enough, if it is too cold.

An unusually beautiful plant, hippeastrum, will delight you and your family with its unusual flowers! We are waiting for your comments!