How to grow cacti at home at home?

It is not difficult to ensure the reproduction of cacti at home, you just need to know the rules and follow the planting technique. We will learn about this from the article.

Cacti - description

Cacti are succulents, that is, plants that store water in the stem. Instead of leaves, they have thorns that can be hard or soft, straight or with a curved end. The thorns grow in bunches. Some species (for example, pereskia) also have leaves.

Peresky cactus

The most dangerous spines are bent, they can easily dig into the skin and pull them out is not so easy. Therefore, be sure to wear protective gloves when handling cacti.

• The Cactus family contains about 300 genera and 2500 species.
• The homeland of cacti is America, some species grow in Madagascar and Sri Lanka.
• Preferred climate: semi-desert, dry steppes and deciduous forests.

The surface of cacti is covered with a wax-like skin, which is almost impervious to water and gases. The pubescence on some types of cacti is a kind of "sponge" for absorbing water. The spines of cacti perform the same role - to collect moisture from the air.

Most cacti have spherical or columnar stems. In prickly pears, the stems are flat, consisting of segments that can be ovoid or cylindrical in shape.

Prickly pear cactus

Flowers in cacti appear in their areoles - axillary buds. Areoles also produce hairs and spines. Some cacti can have about 100 thorns on one areola!

Areoles from which spines, hairs and flowers grow

Cacti bloom for a short time. Flowers can be self-pollinated or require cross-pollination. After pollination, in place of the flowers, fruits are formed, in most cases edible.

The bloom of cacti is very bright, but short-lived.

The cultivation of prickly pears occurs for the industrial production of fruits that have various medicinal properties.

• To grow a cactus, you need: a minimum of water, a lot of sunshine and a certain temperature during the growth period and during the dormant period (there are features depending on the species).
• Cactus pots need to be selected shallow, with good drainage.
• For planting, use special mixtures for cacti: loose rocky (sandy) soil with a low organic content.
• Watering from spring to winter is needed as the soil dries out.
• In winter, most cacti are kept at low humidity, without watering and at a temperature of 8-15 ° C.

How do they reproduce

Breeding methods for cacti:

• children (processes);
• cuttings;
• seeds;
• vaccination.

The simplest methods are reproduction by children and cuttings.

• Babies are formed on many types of cacti.
• Species without the formation of children can only be propagated by cuttings or seeds.
• Cacti are propagated and planted in spring or early summer, during growth.
• Seeds are sown in January-February.

Seed propagation is the most difficult method that requires heating, sterility and frequent picks. Not all seedlings survive.

When breeding, you need to know 2 important rules:

• never use nutritious soil, it increases the risk of seedlings rotting and mold;
• use soil with a large (1/2 or more) amount of sand and be sure to disinfect it (ignite or scald with boiling water).

Reproduction by children at home

In the species of cacti that form children, it is enough to detach them from the mother plant and root them in the substrate. Cacti do not root in water.

Too small a baby should not be detached, wait until she grows up a little (1.5–2 cm).

You can root the baby directly in the ground or use this method:

1. Secure the baby to a glass in which water is poured. The distance from the bottom of the cactus to the water is 5–7 mm.
2. As the water evaporates, add it to the glass.
3. It is desirable to maintain the water temperature from 25 to 30 ° C.
4. After the roots have formed, plant the baby.

• For rooting and planting, use non-nutritive soil with sand. For example: sheet earth 1 part, sand 2 parts.

It is necessary to plant a cactus, in no case deepening the root collar! To prevent the cactus from falling, pour gravel around it: vermiculite, zeolite, coarse sand or small pebbles. Gravel will also better retain moisture in the soil and protect it from mold.

Do not cover the root collar with soil, otherwise it will rot

You can plant several cacti in one pot, including different types and varieties, but they must correspond to the peculiarities of care and feeding. It is necessary to plant at a distance, taking into account the growth of each cactus.

You can plant several cacti nearby

It is better to use plastic pots for cacti with small drainage holes at the bottom or without them, but with an increased drainage layer (by a third of the pot). Plastic pots cool less and retain moisture longer.

Step-by-step instructions for rooting a baby

1. The baby can be separated with a sharp sterile instrument, but it is better to just gently “unscrew” it.

   We choose children for rooting and carefully unscrew from the mother cactus

2. If a piece of the mother plant remains on the baby, it must be cut off with a sterile knife so that it does not rot.
3. Before rooting, dry the baby vertically in a warm and dry place for 2-3 days.
4. We put the drainage 1/4 into the pot (expanded clay, broken brick), pour in slightly damp soil and tamp it a little with a spoon. Cacti love loose soil, so when planting it does not need to be tamped heavily.
5. We install a cactus on top, add soil to the root collar. Tap the pot on the table so that the soil does not sag further during watering. If necessary, add more soil to the neck of the cactus and fix it around with gravel (the best option is zeolite).
6. We put the cactus pot in a dark place for three days.

• You can water a cactus only a week after planting.
• After three days, set it in a bright, but not sunny place, before rooting.
• When the cactus takes root (visually - starts to grow), you need to accustom it to the sun.

Transplant the cactus as it grows.The root system of small cacti is small, so the pot should be shallow, with good drainage. Even in adult cacti, the roots do not grow too deep.

The roots of small cacti are small

• Cacti are fed with inorganic fertilizers with a minimum nitrogen content starting from six months of life and only during growth. Study your species of cactus, because some species do not feed at all, while others have their own specific characteristics.
• In winter, cacti enter dormancy: in September, feeding ends and watering is reduced. In the first two years of life, they should not be watered at all in winter!

The same rules apply to other types of reproduction of cacti.

Propagation by cuttings

For propagation by cuttings, you need to choose only healthy and strong (non-flabby) parts of the cactus.

The upper part of the cactus is cut off, sharpened, dried for about a week, and rooted in the ground, just like the baby. The stalk should be stuck into the ground vertically to avoid the appearance of lateral roots on the stem.

For better rooting, the following technique is used: the lower part of the cut cactus is placed in a warm Kornevin solution for several hours. Then it is dried for 2-3 days and planted in the ground.

• Kornevin's consumption: half a teaspoon for half a liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for grafting

1. We cut off the selected stalk with a sharp disinfected instrument. The cut is done quickly and smoothly.

   Cut off the cuttings with a sharp disinfected tool

2. We sharpen the cut on a truncated cone, without touching the cambium (rings in the middle).

   We sharpen the cactus without touching the cambium

3. Sprinkle all the cuts with crushed coal. If you are using Kornevin, then you do not need to sprinkle the bottom cut with coal.
4. We put the cactus in an upright position to dry for 5-7 days.
5. We plant in the same way as the rooting of the baby, filling in the cut part. Stick a stick next to it and tie the cactus to prevent it from falling.

   Planting scheme of cuttings: 1-sand (gravel), 2-soil, 3-drainage

You can water the cactus after 2 weeks. Before watering, it is useful to spray a little of the cactus from a fine-dispersion sprayer so that only fine water dust gets on it, and does not drain water.

Breeding methods for forest cacti

All genera and species of forest cacti are also propagated by cuttings: Schlumberger, Ripsalidopsis and others. Unlike regular cacti, they can be rooted in water.

Forest cacti are epiphytic plants with leaves that are made up of segments. They grow mainly on the trunks and roots of trees.

Important differences between forest cacti from other genera of cactus:

• at home, they are grown in very loose, breathable soil with the addition of nutritious peat;
• forest cacti do not tolerate excessive moisture or drying out;
• it is useful to spray them with warm and soft (no lime) water.

Schlumberger forest cactus

Step-by-step propagation of the cuttings in the substrate

1. We break off the desired stalk (it can even be one segment). We do this by simply pinching it off between the segments with our fingers. It is good if it already has air roots (it will take root faster).

   We pinch off the desired stalk between the segments

2. We dry the cutting for two or three days in a warm and dark place (not in the sun, but not in complete darkness).

   Drying the segments for two to three days

3. We superficially set the cutting on a moistened substrate (this can be a soil for succulent plants, cacti, or just peaty with the addition of half sand).

   Installing the cutting on the substrate

4. We fix the cutting. For example, tie it to a stick in the ground.

   We fix the stalk

5. Build a greenhouse: tie up with cellophane or cover with some kind of lid.

   Making a greenhouse

6. Place the greenhouse in diffused light in a warm place.

   We put the cuttings on diffused light in a warm place

7. Do not forget to air the greenhouse a little every other day and spray the cutting and the ground around so that it does not dry out.

The cover is removed when you see that the cutting is rooted - that is, it gives a new growing segment. After removing the cover, you can water the cutting a little to keep the ground moist, but not wet.

A new segment of the cactus has begun to grow - a signal of successful rooting.

Tips for rooting a cutting:

• it is useful to spray with the addition of Kornevin (or another rooting agent) + Fitosporin (powder or paste): dilute each product in half a liter of warm water at the tip of a teaspoon;
• do not spray too much, just so that the soil around is moist (not wet!);
• it is advisable to plant the cutting immediately in a small pot with drainage, so that after rooting the cactus continues to develop there. Transplant it into a larger pot as the root system grows (when the roots begin to crawl out of the drainage hole).

Rooting the cuttings in water

1. After drying, place the cutting in water with the addition of the rooting agent + Fitosporin powder (the proportions are the same).

   We put the cutting in the water

2. Keep an eye on the water level, the cuttings should be about 5–7 mm in it (you don't need to change the water before root formation).
3. When the cutting is rooted, plant it in the substrate. You can deepen into the soil no more than 5 mm.

There is one more "water" method, but using foam rubber:

1. Put disinfected foam rubber in a jar (or glass).
2. Moisten the foam with water so that it protrudes slightly on its surface.
3. Place the handle on the foam rubber and cover with cellophane.
4. Make sure the water does not dry out before roots appear.
5. After the roots appear, wait for them to grow a little, and plant in the substrate.

   Wait a little more for the roots to grow

You can propagate forest cacti and seeds just like any other. When planting seedlings, consider their generic characteristics.

Seed propagation

It is not always effective to propagate cacti by seeds. You need to know that not all seeds that hatch will survive. Fungi appear on some, others lose roots, dry out or rot.

Cactus seeds are quite large or very microscopic, like dust. Depending on the size, they can be soaked in a solution (for example, Micrass) before planting, or planted dry. In practice, the difference in germination between dry and soaked seeds is almost imperceptible.

For correct sowing, you need to prepare:

1. a low container with holes at the bottom, washed in water with soda (for example, a plastic container or a cotton swab box);
2. cover for creating a greenhouse;
3. spilled boiling water or calcined substrate with sand (you can use one sand);
4. drainage for the bottom of the container: fine expanded clay or perlite;
5. cactus seeds;
6. a ruler or stick to create grooves in the ground;
7. a disinfected needle (or toothpick) for spreading seeds;
8. warm boiled water to wet the substrate if you have ignited it;
9. thermometer for measuring temperature;
10. means for heating the greenhouse (for example, a fan heater with a thermostat) to 28–33 degrees during the day and 22–25 degrees at night.

If no heating agent is available, place greenhouses in the warmest place, for example, near a heating system. But make sure that the temperature drops by a few degrees at night.

• The soil should be moist, but not wet. When filling the container, it must be sealed so that it does not sag when watering. The height of the soil with drainage is approximately 3 cm (1 cm for drainage).
• For sowing, it is convenient to use plastic containers with lids, in which you need to make holes at the bottom with a distance of 1.5 cm. Seedlings are watered by immersing the container in water.
• To water the substrate, it is necessary to collect boiled water about 40 ° C into the pan and place the container there until the substrate is completely wet.
• Further, the seedlings are irrigated in the same way. It is impossible to overdry the substrate.
• For immersion irrigation, add a biofungicide (for example, Fitosporin, Fitolavin) to the water to prevent fungal diseases: half a teaspoon of the drug per liter of water.

Tip: if you are planting seeds of different cacti, then sign each groove with a glued piece of paper with the name, and cover it with tape (so as not to get wet). Subsequently, re-glue the strips with the inscriptions in accordance with the transplant, so as not to forget where which cacti you grow.

Sowing step-by-step instructions

1. With the corner of the stick or ruler we make shallow grooves at a distance of 1.5–2 cm from each other. The seeds should lie on the surface and not sink into the ground.
2. With a needle, we pick up the seeds one at a time and lay them along the grooves at a distance of 1 cm. You don't need to sprinkle them!
3. We close the container with the seeds with a lid and put the greenhouse under the illumination lamps at a temperature of 28–33 ° C.
4. At night it is necessary to create a temperature difference and reduce it to 22–25 ° C.

For better germination, it is convenient to use wooden boxes in which you place containers with seeds and place fluorescent lamps on top. Such greenhouses can be covered with glass (lamps are placed on top of glass) or covered with agrofibre (over lamps).

• The substrate temperature should be measured daily. If it falls below the required level, it is necessary either to put boxes near the heaters, or to heat it up. One of the methods of heating: a heater for an aquarium with the required temperature is placed in a container with water, the container is covered with glass and a container with seeds is installed on it.
• Seeds, depending on the type of cactus, germinate from 3 days to a month. Seeds that are particularly hard to germinate can take up to two months to germinate. It is better to remove the seed coat from sprouted cacti from the sprouts with tweezers so that it does not become moldy.
• Until the first pick, the temperature is kept the same.
• After a month, cactus seedlings need to be planted in the same substrate. It is convenient to take them from the transplanting substrate with a fork-shaped skewer (which is for olives).

Seeds do not germinate at the same time

When transplanting, a small depression is made for each sprout. Make sure that the root collars of the cacti are not buried, otherwise they will rot. Tamp the sand around with a spoon.

We plant the grown cacti in a month

The distance between cacti should be at least their diameter. The picking procedure will have to be repeated every 1.5–2 months for the first year.

This is how cacti dive in rows

All drying out and decaying sprouts, unfortunately, must be removed.

Cacti should be gradually taught to:

• open air;
• sunlight;
• drying the substrate.

Before the first pick, cacti are accustomed to open air. Ventilate the greenhouse every day, adding time for 5-10 minutes. After the cacti get used to being outdoors for more than 2 hours a day, remove the lid completely.

After the first pick, keep the cacti warm, but there is no need to observe the temperature regime so strictly. In general, the temperature should be in the range of 22-28 ° C. Keep cactus plants away from drafts and cold air!

A week after the second dive, gradually accustom the sprouts to diffused sunlight so that by summer they will already get used to the sun. But don't place them in direct sunlight!

For the first six months, it is necessary to keep the substrate moist. After six months, teach the cacti to dry gradually so that the substrate dries out completely, and then just water it. Watering can be done both in a submerged way and in the usual way, but very carefully so as not to erode the soil around the cacti.

Only after the cacti are completely accustomed to the sun and dry substrate, they need to be planted in pots in a permanent place and watered according to the usual scheme for this type of cacti.

Cacti planted in a permanent place of growth

Picking (planting) cacti - video

Graft

Most cacti are quite capricious in their content and grow slowly. For very slow-growing cacti, the method of grafting serves as a stimulator of growth and development. Grafted cacti grow 3-5 times faster.

Vaccination of cacti is needed for:

• growth stimulation;
• flowering stimulation;
• growing seedlings;
• saving a rotten cactus;
• reproduction of rare and mutant species;
• colored cacti unable to grow on their own;
• spectacular (some cacti look much better grafted).

The transplanted upper part of the cactus is the scion, and the lower part with the roots on which the cut cactus is planted is the rootstock.

The stock can be temporary - for rooting and growing of cacti, or permanent: for all colored cacti, for those that have lost a large lower part and are unable to root, etc.

Any type of cacti can be grafted together, but there are two basic rules:

1. The stock must be completely healthy, with strong roots and appropriate to the size of the scion. The graft will grow much faster than the rootstock, so you need to calculate the size of the upper cactus so that it does not curl the lower one with its weight.
2. The stock must correspond to the characteristics of the scion, for example, for the content of lime. If the scion requires a higher content of this element, then you will need to provide the stock with a sufficient amount of lime in the soil. Moreover, if the species of the lower cactus does not tolerate an increased content of lime, you can destroy both plants.

Study the characteristics of the cactus that you are going to plant and select the appropriate stock for it.

• Examples of rootstock: Cereus, Echionocereus, Selenicereus, Trichocereus, Periscus, Eriocereus, Myrtillocactus.
• Examples of scion: mamilaria, lobivia, rebutia, hymnocallicium.

From experience: Echinopsis as a permanent stock depletes in 3-5 years, so it is better to use it for a temporary stock.

Prerequisites for vaccination:

• cacti must be in a state of growth (spring-summer);
• the stems should not be lignified;
• a week before vaccination, cacti are not watered;
• the cutting tool must be very sharp and disinfected (for example, alcohol or boiling water);
• if the stock was transplanted, another cactus can be grafted onto it only a month later;
• it is desirable that the diameters of the aligned sections be the same. If they do not match, they need to be aligned in the middle so that the cambular rings match, and sprinkle the open sections with crushed coal.
• For fixation, you need to make 2 tourniquets (for example, use elastic bands or strings). You can put some kind of matter on the top cactus so as not to push it and not to break the bundles.

Attention! All actions must be done quickly, without delay. After an even and quick cut, you must immediately graft the cactus onto the stock.

Step-by-step instructions for plant grafting

1. Cut off the top of the cactus for the stock.

   You need to cut with a very sharp disinfected tool.

2. Bevel the edges of the stock a little. Make another thin, even cut and leave this piece on the rootstock to keep it moist.

   Cut off the edge on the rootstock

3. Cut off the scion evenly and bevel the edges. Before installing on the stock, we quickly update the cut (the main thing is to cut off a thin layer on the cambric ring) and then act without delay.
   

   Cut off the edge on a cactus scion

4. We remove the cut layer from the stock with tweezers and press the scion against the stock cut in order to maximally combine the cambial rings. Twist the scion a little, pressing it into the lower cactus so that it joins it as tightly as possible.

   We apply the scion to the stock tightly, combining the cambium

5. We press the scion with prepared bundles crosswise. If the scion has thorns, place the material to avoid tearing the strands. Sprinkle the remaining open sections with crushed coal.

   We press the scion of the cactus to the stock crosswise with bundles

6. We make a greenhouse by covering the cactus with a glass, jar or piece of agrofibre.

   Covering the grafted cactus

7. We put the grafted cactus in a warm, shady place, away from sunlight, for 2-3 weeks.

Grafted cacti usually grow together easily 2-3 weeks after grafting.

• Water the cactus very sparingly, a few days after vaccination.
• The sections must be protected from water ingress, so wipe the condensation from the walls of the coating.
• The greenhouse and bandages are removed after two weeks.
• In the future, care for the grafted cactus is needed in accordance with the stock.
• The resulting children from the stock must be removed.

If the scion has given roots, it will have to be removed from the rootstock and planted in the ground. Or try to cut again and graft again (you will have to update the cut on the rootstock). But I do not advise doing this, it is better to plant the graft that gave the roots.

If the graft has given a root, it is better to plant it.

In case of an unsuccessful attempt at vaccination, when after 3 weeks the cactus does not take root, the operation should be repeated again.

Nuances for forest cacti

Forest cacti can also be grafted. The peculiarity is that it is even easier to do this than with ordinary cacti.

For example, how to plant a schlumberger on prickly pear:

• cut (or cut) the trunk in the selected part of the prickly pear and attach or pin the Schlumberger stalk to the cut. We make a cut on the Schlumberger handle in the middle of the segment.

  Schlumberger, several times grafted onto prickly pear

• It can be grafted into the incision from above, while the cutting is sharpened from the sides under the incision (grafting with a wedge).

  We fix the Schlumberger stalk in the incision on the prickly pear

We plant ripsalidopsis on Schlumberger:

1. make a cut in the middle of the Schlumberger segment.
2. Cut off the bottom on the ripsalidopsis handle, and fix it (with a string or tape) on the Schlumberger cut.

   Grafting Ripsalidopsis on Schlumberger

All other steps are the same as for the usual grafting of cacti. You can experiment with vaccinations, it's very interesting!

Side grafting Schlumberger

Vaccination of succulents - video

Grafted cacti - gallery

Reproduction of cacti is an interesting and simple matter. Cacti grown by you from seeds or shoots will not only be cheaper than purchased ones, but also dearer to your heart!

Ksenia, 39 years old. By education, a pastry chef, but had a chance to work in many other areas (sales, office, renovation). I love to cook and plant flowers. Rate the article:

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Having mastered the basics of planting cacti, you should not rely on the fact that succulents on your windowsill will grow for many years, without any outside interference. Like any plants, cacti need decent care when growing, otherwise they will simply suffer, refuse to bloom, and then die altogether. You can learn how to properly grow cacti at home by carefully studying this material.

The technology of proper cultivation and care of cacti at home

The experience of growing and caring for cacti, familiarity with the relevant literature lead to a paradoxical conclusion: almost all cacti (like the overwhelming majority of other succulents) cannot be counted as indoor plants themselves. Of course, the cultivation and care of home cacti can be carried out in rooms - which is what millions of people do, but at the same time, firstly, you have to change the usual room conditions (highlight the plants, isolate them from dry and warm air, etc.), secondly, admirers of cacti still use every opportunity to "expel" their pets from the windowsills to the wild (outside the windows, balconies, hotbeds), and thirdly - and this is the most important thing - it is simply not possible to grow full-fledged specimens of most species in rooms ... Only rare representatives of cactus, due to their biological characteristics, seemed to be sufficiently adapted precisely to the conditions of the dwelling and therefore became common in indoor floriculture.

In temperate zones (Europe, North America, Japan), where decorative succulent growing is most developed, the best results are obtained in greenhouses, but many species are grown all year round in open ground (even in northern Europe and Canada).

Thus, there are three main directions for the cultivation of cacti and other succulents for decorative purposes - indoor, greenhouse and garden. Each of them assumes its own, specific agricultural technology.

It is important to note that, no matter how different the methods of growing cacti at home or other conditions, they are all based on a few common biological characteristics of these plants. This is, first of all, slow growth and its pronounced periodicity. Almost all cacti, even giant treelike cereus and lush epiphytic bushes with leafy shoots, grow relatively slowly in nature. Neither their root system, nor stem tissues are able to quickly assimilate a large amount of nutrients and water from the environment, and therefore cannot quickly form an increment. In addition, regardless of the place of natural growth, almost all cacti have pronounced periods of growth, flowering and, which is very important, dormancy.

The correct methods of growing cacti at home take into account, first of all, these are their features. It is curious that venerable cactus growers sometimes fiercely argue, defending their, often diametrically opposed ways of keeping and growing their favorite plants, but usually the conflicting parties have equally good collections, since their different methods are still based on understanding the nature of cacti. But most of the failures are explained precisely by ignorance of this nature.

In general, in cactus growing, a huge number of different rules, recommendations, methods and technologies for growing cacti have been accumulated, in addition, different rules and recommendations often contradict each other (especially regarding the content during dormant periods, the composition of substrates, watering, seed germination). This is not to say that formal methods are wrong, but when evaluating them, one must bear in mind two circumstances.

At first, before growing cacti at home, keep in mind that in nature these plants are to a certain extent plastic. Most of them are capable of growing in markedly different conditions. One and the same species can be found, for example, in the canopy of a tropical forest, and on bare, sun-drenched rocks. It was this ability that allowed many species to spread widely around the world (for example, the notorious conquest of the world by prickly pears). Further, the needs of cacti change markedly with age, and what is unacceptable for a two- or three-year-old seedling is quite suitable for a veteran plant (and vice versa). In addition, like other plants, cacti get used to certain conditions (for example, hardening can be used to train them to tolerate stronger sunlight or colder temperatures).

SecondlyWhen studying information on how to properly care for cacti, do not forget that, like any living organisms, these plants do not respond to any separate environmental factor (temperature, humidity, etc.), but to a complex of these factors. The addition of humus to the soil mixture under some conditions of watering, light and temperature can lead to rapid death of plants, and under others, it can provide excellent development.

Each serious cactus grower has his own set of methods for caring for cacti at home, developed by practice, and each such set has certain pros and cons. But, of course, there are some general principles of growing cacti, and unacceptable techniques.

How to properly grow cacti at home: choosing a place

Before you can properly grow cacti, you need to choose the right place for them. In the room, cacti always lack light and are too warm during the winter dormancy. In addition, even for these drought-resistant plants, the indoor air is dry. Therefore, the best place for them in the house is on the windowsill of the sunniest window, closer to the glass (the glass, of course, must be clean).

As you can see in the photo, when caring for home cacti, you need to put plants at the bottom of the window:

If there are shelves on the window, then the plants on the upper shelves only get side lighting, which leads to an ugly curvature of the stems. Usually, such an arrangement of cacti does not cause technical problems, since most other plants do not compete with them for these - near the glass itself - places.

Problems arise when the passion for succulents becomes so serious that because of dozens or even hundreds of pots with "hedgehogs" there are no more suitable places in the rooms. Then, for the proper care of cacti, plants can be placed in the house only for the winter period, and in the spring-autumn time it is possible to find an opportunity to place them outside the apartment (in greenhouses in the country, on the balcony, in a greenhouse outside the window). During the period of winter dormancy, the abundance of light for most cacti is not so important, and they can be kept near the northern windows, on the upper shelves near the window, and even in full shade.

What kind of pot is needed for a home cactus

Having decided to start breeding succulents, you need to imagine what pots are needed for cacti. The main requirement for a container for planting succulent plants is compliance with the size of the root system. The pot should not significantly exceed its volume in a straightened form, as a rule, a container of much smaller volume is chosen. If the plant has shallow, wide roots near the surface of the substrate, it needs a relatively flat pot. In flat boxes (bowls), cacti are usually sown and seedlings are planted. Conversely, cacti with deepening, especially tap and turnip roots, need deeper utensils.

The nature and development of the root system when transplanting cacti will also be appreciated by a layman, but it is better to check the reference books. Of course, when planting relatively rapidly growing cacti (large prickly pears, echinopsis, pereski, epiphytes), the dishes can be more capacious - "for growth."

What are the most commonly used cactus pots? Usually, plastic pots are taken for these plants. But this is not a dogma. Ceramics is also widely used, and you can use dishes from other natural and artificial materials. It is only important to understand the possible consequences.

One of the peculiarities of caring for cacti is that the state of the substrate in plastic and clay pots under exactly the same conditions will be different (in a clay pot, an earthen lump, naturally, dries up faster and cools more after watering). At the same time, in some cases, rapid drying is a plus (for example, during winter watering and for cacti with sensitive roots), in others it is a minus (for young, rooting plants or when watering in hot weather).

Which pot is best for a cactus

For a long time, answering the question "which pot of cactus is better", experienced cactusists answered that for planting these plants, rectangular containers are required, which are convenient for a denser planting of succulents. However, modern design trends are gradually leading to the return of round tableware. Indeed, a spherical plant in a rectangular pot does not look perfect. Round pots also have functional advantages: firstly, both the aerial part of the cactus and its root system develop in all directions, filling the pot more evenly; secondly, when tightly installed, there is a lot of space between the rounded pots, which provides a more favorable mode of humidity and air exchange than in the case of rectangular containers standing close together.

When deciding which pot to choose for a cactus, do not forget that almost all succulents, even the most moisture-loving ones, do not like stagnant water. Therefore, cactus pots must have reliable drainage holes. Many cactus growers make several of them in the bottom, sometimes capturing the side walls.

Rapid drainage of water occurs in pots with a retractable bottom; they are also convenient for plant transplantation. A retractable bottom is easy to build in any pot by placing a shard or a plastic plate slightly smaller than the main bottom on the main bottom. Small legs under the outer bottom also help to avoid stagnant water in the bottom of the pot. Epiphytic cacti are especially sensitive to drainage deficiencies (that is, to stagnant water). For them, you can use "orchid" dishes (ampelous baskets).

It has been noticed that when taking care of cacti at home, succulents grow better and faster if they are planted together in one container. Of course, at the same time, neighbors are selected that require similar care. In this case, the conditions for the development of the root system are partly close to natural, and the biological environment, chemical composition, water and gas regime of the substrate become more stable.

Pay attention to the photo - with decent care for cacti at home, such groups are very decorative:

In many ways, such groups facilitate plant care. Collective planting and purely collectible cultivation of cacti do not contradict - jointly planted plants representing forms of the same species or closely related species of the same genus, each with its own label, is a completely acceptable and convenient form of keeping the collection. However, one must imagine the disadvantages of such a landing: difficulties in transplanting and manipulating plants - it is almost impossible to move, photograph, donate, sell, exchange, quarantine or treat one by one, separately from the rest.

The selection of dishes, of course, must also meet aesthetic requirements. Too bright or fancy pots interfere with the perception of the beauty of the plant itself. The cacti standing in different types and multi-colored pots look ridiculous next to each other. It is bad if the color of the pot does not match the color of the cactus flower, but the color of the container also has a functional significance: the strict and neutral for the perception of the plant, black color contributes to overheating of the roots in the sun, and white, on the contrary, reflects the sun's rays.

Recently, pots are becoming more widespread, a vessel into which a pot with a plant is inserted. In this case, it is important to observe two conditions: the edges of the pots should not be significantly higher than the edges of the pot with a cactus, and there should not be water in the pots.

It is convenient to place cactus pots in common trays. They are easy to water from below, as well as to transfer plants. If the pallet has high sides, the pots in it can be covered with coarse-grained substrate (pebbles, expanded clay, etc.). Such external drainage protects them from drying out too quickly (which is important especially when using clay pots), overheating or hypothermia of the roots. In addition, this technique will make the group of cacti more decorative.

How to properly care for cacti at home: feeding and fertilizing

There are diametrically opposite views on the use of fertilizers for cacti in cactus growing - from their complete denial to mandatory use. In the literature, there are a wide variety of recipes for nutritional compositions for feeding cacti at home, but there is practically no experimental evidence that a particular substance (mixture) is really necessary or gives better results.

We must not forget that cacti are not an annual, but a perennial culture. On perennial crops, a separate result of the impact of fertilizers for cacti at home is usually not traced. Again, we emphasize that growing an unusually large, wildly blooming, monstrously nibbed specimen, which does not exist in nature, is not an achievement at all! The collection (and aesthetic) value of such plants is low.But since the cacti in the collections are in completely unnatural conditions for them, fertilizers, in principle, are not prohibited.

Various compositions are used that are also used for other indoor plants, but with several reservations: much less often - usually 1-2 times during the entire growing season, in a lower concentration, with a relatively lower nitrogen content and preferably mineral. Organic fertilizers and feeding for cacti at home in the form of relatively weak (compared to those used for other plants) solutions can be applied only under hardy, fast-growing large-flowered succulents.

Light and temperature for keeping cacti in winter

One of the most important conditions for growing cacti and the normal development of most other succulents is an abundance of light. There are no shade-loving ones among them - there are shade-tolerant ones. They require as much light as possible, and sunlight. You can, of course, find a source of artificial light in which species from even the sunniest deserts can grow, bloom and bear fruit. And, nevertheless, they will differ from those grown in the sun not for the better.

The needs of cacti for warmth are closely related to light. Most of them require both a lot of light and a lot of heat. But in the temperate zone, these two factors come into conflict. The maximum amount of light can be given to plants simply by exposing them to the open air, but with the exception of mountain species, most cacti will be cold and unable to grow normally. Any protection, for example, glass, film, provides the necessary heat (and protection from precipitation), but eats up part of the light. Each amateur in his specific conditions must find the optimal ratio of air temperature for cacti and the amount of light.

Needing warmth, cacti, however, are not afraid of coolness (up to light frosts) and sudden temperature changes. Such species can be outside the home from spring to mid-autumn, and even longer when heated. Some of them tolerate frost and are even able to winter outdoors.

Having provided the right temperature for keeping cacti, it is important to remember that these plants do not like stagnant air - even greenhouses with the most thermophilic species must be ventilated. But drafts are also enemies of cacti. The place on the windowsill at the constantly open window is not for them.

The combination of a lack of light with a high temperature, especially in a wet substrate, can lead to irreversibly ugly growth. Therefore, with a lack of light, neither heat nor moisture is needed. This general principle determines the rules for placing cacti during winter dormancy. The main task in ensuring the required temperature for keeping cacti in winter is to protect them from overheating, while preventing hypothermia.

For most species, wintering at 5-15 ° C is suitable. The easiest way to reach the right temperatures for cacti in winter is to fence off the window sill with cacti from room heat with a screen made of film, glass, etc. Since the vegetation of most cacti in winter completely stops, there is no need for light.

Some amateurs use extreme methods - placing the plants in the cellar for the winter or shaking them out of the pots, just in the room, in this case the dryness and lack of light compensate for the effect of room heat stimulating unwanted growth, and the state of dormancy is not disturbed (however, the plants can dry out a lot. and even dry out completely).

After wintering in low light conditions, cacti need to get used to bright sunlight. To do this, in the spring, the plants are shaded: they whiten the glass of a window or a greenhouse, cover it with tissue paper or a net. Thin white synthetic nonwovens, which have become popular, have proven useful in spring (and summer) protection of cacti from sunburn.It is also necessary to close the walls of the pots facing it from the sun - overheating of the root system is not as noticeable as the burn of the stem, but it also disrupts growth.

Watch the Cactus Care video for a better understanding of how to grow these succulents:

Every plant in the room should decorate it. Cactus is no exception. Growing cacti at home is not an easy task, but quite doable. However, it should be remembered that only full-fledged, healthy plants can decorate a home. Our task is to create conditions for cacti in which they can grow, bloom and bear fruit, as well as provide cacti with competent care. How can this be achieved? After all, they are as different as we managed make sure, grow in deserts, and in humid tropical forests, and in high mountain regions, which means that the requirements for sunlight, water, air and soil regimes will be different for them. Let's talk about the most important factors in caring for cacti.

The content of the article:

• Choosing a place for a cactus.
• Humidity and temperature
• Watering the cactus.
• Soil for cactus
• Cactus care calendar

The site also has material on how to provide optimal feeding for a cactus.

Where to place the cactus?

Growing cacti always starts with one question: on which window to place a cactus? Full care of cacti will not produce fruit if the plant is in unfavorable conditions. The cactus will react to any deviation from the norm by distorting its appearance, stopping flowering and even death. Knowing about cacti and observing the basic conditions for their breeding and maintenance will allow you to avoid possible mistakes and extremes.

WHAT WINDOW? The first thing to worry about is choosing a location for the cactus. Cactus grows better on south windows, as a last resort in the south-east or south-west. This is due to its high demand for sunlight. Light for cacti is the main growth factor. All pubescent, highly thorny cacti, as well as all species with a developed wax layer on the surface, need high illumination.

However, it must be remembered that cacti of tropical rainforests grow worse in bright light, they need shading. Such views can be placed on east window... Epiphytic cacti will feel at ease there. A north-facing window is not suitable for growing cacti. The only case of placing a cactus on the north window is during the wintering of unpretentious street species of cacti, which are in the garden or on the balcony in summer. In this case, the main thing is to keep the plants cold. North and west windows can be suitable for permanent placement of cacti only if special lighting equipment is available.

ONE OR IN A GROUP? It is better to place cacti not one by one, but in a team. immersing them all in a moisture-consuming substrate (for example, in moistened peat) in a plastic or wooden box. In such a cactus colony, a more uniform and harmonious growth is observed. And it is much easier to care for cacti in this case.

Colony of cacti and succulents

ACCOMMODATION IN WINTER AND SUMMER. Winter placement of cacti should be different from summer. In the summer, we must ensure the maximum growth and development of cacti (light and abundant watering). A cool and almost dry wintering should immerse the plant in a state of dormancy, "winter sleep". For this purpose, watering in winter is reduced to a minimum. A dry winter regime for keeping plants is necessary, as in low light conditions, factors that can cause unwanted growth should be avoided (this usually disfigures the shape of the plant, making it less decorative). Reducing watering, they also achieve a decrease in the temperature on the windowsill to 5-10 degrees using simple devices: you can fence off the window sill from the room with a half-meter frame made of plexiglass, and raise the box with cacti above the window sill using runners, creating an air gap so that the box does not was heated by a central heating battery.

POT POSITION: Strictly make sure that the cacti are always in the same position in relation to the light, you cannot turn the plants. This will adversely affect their flowering ability.

Optimal humidity and air temperature for cacti.

AIR HUMIDITY.In the room where the cacti are located, it is advisable to maintain a moderate air humidity. Warm stale air is unsuitable for long-term keeping of these plants. Such conditions can be specially created in the spring for the resumption of growth, but, having given an impetus for several weeks, it will be necessary to think about air circulation. For this, you definitely need airing, but without drafts, and spraying plant, especially in the early morning and evening hours of hot summer days. To do this, it is better to use a sprayer with a very fine spray, which will create an almost fog over the cacti, which will remotely remind them of the living conditions at home, where they receive moisture in the form of night dew.

From spring to autumn, it is possible to place your collection in portable and stationary greenhouses and greenhouses, which can be equipped both on the balcony and in the country. Here, a very important point is the problem of soil temperature and regular ventilation and shading of greenhouses. It is especially important to shade the plants in the spring, since they have become unaccustomed to the bright sun during the winter, they are very often sensitive to its rays, which can lead to burns of the epidermis. The first removal of cacti should be postponed for a cloudy day and a week or two should be protected from direct sunlight, especially at noon.

In the northern regions, bottom heating is done for greenhouses. The easiest way is with an ordinary light bulb, which is mounted in a tray with plants. As the cacti get used to direct sunlight, the greenhouse needs to be ventilated more and more often, and, finally, its cover can be completely removed.

Watering the cactus.

WATERING FREQUENCY. The most important element in the life of any plant is water. This is why it is important to know how to water your cacti. We know that these plants are succulents and tolerate dry periods rather painlessly, while losing up to 60% of the norm in their volume. But in favorable periods, they actively use moisture, filling their water-storing organs with it. There is no universal water regime for all cacti; too many factors will affect the frequency of irrigation, the quantity and quality of water.

But some general principles of watering can be formulated.

• A complete cessation of watering is permissible only if winter hibernation is provided for the cacti.
• If the cacti are placed above a central heating battery, they should be watered 2-3 times a month to avoid drying out the roots.
• In spring, watering should be started with moderate doses, increasing them gradually.

How often and how much to water the cacti? Answers to these questions can only be obtained from your own practical experience and observations. If the cactus is in a period of active growth, then it should be watered constantly and thoroughly, following the principle: better rarely, but abundantly... It is impossible to water little by little, since only the top layer of the soil will get wet, and the roots will remain without water and dry out. It is necessary that the entire earthen lump is saturated with water during irrigation.

Do not go to extremes by excessively flooding the plants with water. Another important principle is worth remembering: it is better not to top up than to overflow... Excess water must be drained from the pallet, otherwise stagnant water will inevitably lead to decay of the roots.

WATER QUALITY: For watering cacti, it is recommended to use rainwater heated in the sun. In an urban setting, this is difficult, so you can use tap water to water cacti, following the tips:

• If the water is hard, then it is better to boil it in advance.
• Do not water cacti with cold water. Its temperature should always be 5-8 degrees higher than the air temperature at the time of watering. Practitioners believe that the best temperature for watering is 30-40 degrees, this is well determined by hand, without a thermometer. At the same time, the hand does not feel either cold or warm.
• When spraying cacti, the water should only be boiled and only hot, since with this type of humidification, the water cools quickly.

When to water cacti? This is also a question that does not have an unambiguous answer. Watering can be done in living rooms and premises at any time. In the open field and in greenhouses, do not water during hot midday hours. Specialized literature recommends watering cacti in the evening hours in summer and around noon in winter. In the middle lane and in the northern regions, evening watering is not always recommended, since the temperature difference can be large and the overnight stay of cacti with undried roots in cool weather is more harmful than useful.

In addition to watering, periodic warm baths will be useful for adult cacti. Of course, this advice is only good for the warm season. To do this, a pot with a plant is immersed in water heated to 40 degrees and, having allowed the earth to soak in water, the plant is kept in this state for about half an hour.

Irrigation type (top or bottom) each cactusist also chooses for himself. With overhead irrigation, water does not always penetrate to the required depth, especially if the land is very dry. When watering from below, the water falls directly into the area of ​​the root hairs, which suck it in. Some types of cacti (heavily pubescent) simply cannot be watered from above. Your choice will depend on the soil and dishes used, on the indoor climate and much more. And one more tip: refrain from watering and spraying the cactus on cold and cloudy days. Do this on sunny days.

Now that you know everything about how to water cacti, let's move on to one more of the important points - to the soil.

Soil for cactus

An important soil requirement for a cactus is an indicator of its acidity. In gardening practice, we are dealing with pH values ​​from 3.5 to 8.5. To maintain the slightly acidic soil necessary for cacti, they need to be watered with water with a pH of 4.5-6 or at least with a neutral pH of 6.4-7.3. The optimal soil acidity regime for cacti is in the range of pH 5.5-6.9. The pH of tap water is much higher, therefore, using such water, especially in summer with a high frequency of watering, we ourselves deteriorate the nutrition of our plants.

It is known for certain that damage to cacti occurs more often at too high rather than too low pH. For epiphytes, the upper pH limit is approximately 7.2. At elevated pH, such cacti die from chlorosis, which results in yellowing of plants. The roots of cacti, especially young ones, especially in the upper part, die off. The point here is that the alkalization of the earth proceeds layer by layer, starting from the upper layers; gradually capturing deeper ones. In Cereus, drying progresses from the crown of the plant. On the surface of the earth, emerging salts become noticeable, sometimes even a bloom of algae of gray-green color appears, a musty smell emanates from the ground.

The existing soil situation (alkalization) must be eliminated. To do this, it is better to use acidified water (with a pH of 4-5) until the soil reaches a normal pH for cacti. For professional gardeners and hobbyists, there are devices for determining the pH in the soil. But, if there is no device, and alkalization of the earth has become a fait accompli, do not despair. Start watering with acidified water.

• In the summer, at the dacha, it is rainwater with peat diluted in it (a mug of peat for a bucket of water) - in a day this infusion is ready for irrigation.
• No peat, add 4-5 grams (teaspoon) of 9 percent acetic acid to the bucket, test the acidity with test paper and save your pets.

In addition, you should pay attention to unwanted admixtures of boron, sodium salts and chlorides in the soil for growing cacti. Even their minimal content in the soil leads to a depressed state of plants, development and growth stop.

It is better to replant already damaged specimens of cacti. A nutrient-poor substrate would be suitable for them in this situation. This is necessary in order to activate their root formation.

Cactus care calendar

SEPTEMBER OCTOBER

Autumn is the time of preparation of most cacti for the state of winter dormancy. Caring for a cactus in the fall is greatly simplified. The number of waterings is gradually decreasing, but hardening with good ventilation and contrasting temperatures of day and night continues. The exceptions are many epiphytic cacti and some "South Americans", which continue to water as usual for them. A pick and change is still possible at this time. Until mid-October, it is recommended to carry out the final treatment of cacti with contact pesticides.

When the air temperature drops sharply, night frosts begin, it is recommended to "move" the cacti to winter apartments, where they need to be cleaned and a place for their cool wintering must be prepared.

At the same time, you can harvest soil and sand for winter and spring work.

A frequent visitor to the collections of cactusists and on our windowsills - Schlumberger ("Decembrist") is watered very little from mid-September until the buds appear.

NOVEMBER

In this month, most cacti stop growing, so their transfer to a prepared dry and cold room is already necessary. Watering cacti is reduced to one or two times a month, and if cacti winter on the windowsill above a radiator with central heating, then up to two or three times a month. If weather conditions permit, airing of the room is continued.

Cacti should be hibernated based on genera, species and varieties so that they are easier to care for. Thus, epiphytic cacti, many columnar, grafted specimens and some of the South American species still require good watering.

"Decembrist" with the appearance of buds should receive good regular watering.

DECEMBER - JANUARY

Most of the cacti in the collection are dormant in winter. The care for them is the same as in November. Regular inspection of the collection is necessary, since at this time all the main pests can be found on juicy young shoots in warm places: and the scale insect. and mealybug and others. The outbreaks must be promptly treated with a brush moistened with diluted alcohol or insecticide, otherwise the pests will quickly spread to neighboring plants. Watering is practically not done (with the exception of epiphytes).

This is a fertile time for drawing up a card index and studying literature on cacti. You can prepare new and update old labels, make the necessary changes to the journal, clarify the correctness of plant names.

FEBRUARY

Continue watering and spraying the cacti in the same mode as in December and January. For the transition to more frequent and intensive watering, the time has not yet come, since the rare sunny days are replaced by cold, cloudy weather. This winter month is especially difficult for cacti: the strength of plants is already running out, they have weakened, yearning for light and warmth. At this time, they are most vulnerable to all kinds of diseases, so be especially careful about cacti at this time.

In February, Zygocactus and Ripsalis may still continue to bloom. Provide special care and watering for them.

You can already start and active steps to prepare dishes for sowing, transplanting. It is also possible to start a transplant with a careful examination of the root system. Do not forget that the cacti are not watered after transplanting.

MARCH, APRIL

This is a time of intense attention and work with cacti. Long and bright days have finally arrived as well. then the cacti have gone into growth.

Clean the cacti from accumulated tili and damaged parts; spray the plants with warm water (on a warm day). This will immediately improve their well-being. Cheer yourself up by cleaning the shelves and windowsills, cleaning the flower pots, and putting things in order.Remember that it is necessary to increase the soil moisture and the intensity of plant illumination in the sun gradually, as necessary and the gradual adaptation of cacti to the spring-summer conditions of keeping. Do not forget about shading in the midday hours on sunny days.

Echinolsis and Lobivia at this time are still kept in dry conditions. They will receive their first watering only when the buds appear.

March and April are the months of active cactus transplantation. Transplant those plants that have faded in winter first. Do not touch those cacti that have filled the buds until the end of flowering. Usually, many species bloom at this time, primarily from the genera Mammillaria and Rebutia. When transplanting prickly pears, cereus and eliphillums, cut off the winter shoots. At this time, it is good to sow, cuttings. Those plants that you did not have time or do not plan to transplant must be fed.

MAY

The cacti are growing. You provide them with adequate watering, nutrient supply, ventilation, and good lighting. Plants accustomed to the sun can not even be shaded (except for epiphytes). Continue sowing, replanting, grafting and grafting. If necessary, control pests with targeted drugs. In the second half of May, when the danger of night frosts has passed, cacti can be transferred to the balcony, and cold-resistant species can even be planted in the ground. It is better to transfer plants to a summer residence in a warm, but cloudy laziness. The rate of watering and spraying can be slightly increased. Fire and sprinkle in the morning and evening hours.

JUNE JULY

Summer is the most fertile time for the owner of a collection of cacti, as a wide variety of cactus species bloom at this time. Care must be taken to create all the necessary conditions for flowering plants. Protect all plants from the scorching rays of the sun and water them daily with air-heated water. The time is fertile for grafting and grafting, sowing is still possible. Pollinate flowering cacti for seed. Pay attention to the seedlings: create normal conditions for soil and air moisture. Dive them if necessary. For vigorously growing cacti, form plants, cut dry branches, and set up supports for thin and long shoots.

AUGUST

Watering cacti should be carried out as the land dries up, take into account the weather conditions and the individual needs of each species. Do not forget that August is the last summer month and you need to gradually prepare for the end of the growing season. The hardening of plants must be continued. If cacti spend the summer indoors, then provide them with at least abundant ventilation, including at night.

Carry out work on feeding cacti with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In late August, many South American species will enter their second growing season.

Now you know everything or almost everything about caring for cacti at home, as well as how to water cacti.

Read about caring for a cactus at home: lighting, temperature, soil. We consider in detail how to properly water a cactus in spring, summer, autumn and winter (frequency, methods, water for irrigation).

We also describe what fertilizer is needed for cacti, how to transplant, propagate and grow from seeds at home.

Lighting and temperature for a cactus at home

Caring for a cactus at home is quite simple, as the plants themselves are hardy and unpretentious, but knowledge, skills and attentiveness are still required from us.

Lighting and temperature

Light for cacti is very important for development and growth. They love a lot of sunlight (light-loving), so it is better to place them on the south window, if there is none, then on the west or east.

If the cactus grows on the north side, then it needs additional lighting.An insufficient amount of light manifests itself in a thinning of the apex.

• There are no shade-loving plant species, there are only some shade-tolerant ones.

Summer

Bright sun rays in summer rarely harm the flower; only forest species (ripsalis, etc.) recommend shading.

It is useful to ventilate and expose cacti to fresh air (balcony, veranda), but at the same time protect from dust, rain and wind. Cover them with plastic wrap in rainy weather.

By gradually increasing the airing time, the plants adapt to the outdoors and after 2-3 weeks they can be kept outdoors around the clock, until the end of summer.

Nighttime temperature drops strengthen the skin of the cactus, endow it with shiny thorns, allow them to winter more easily, increase disease resistance and improve flowering. Drafts are the main danger.

Winter

In winter, cacti are difficult to tolerate dry air with high temperatures. Place the flower on the windowsill farther from the battery and closer to the glass (no touching!).

• The optimum temperature for cacti will be 16-24 ° С.It is better for cacti to winter at 10-15 ° С and without drafts. Epiphytic species need a warmer place.

Most species of such genera have more chances to bloom during a warm winter: Aporocactus, Gymnocalycium, Melocactus, Notocactus, Parodia and Rhipsalis.

The rest of the species need a cold wintering (8-13 ° C) for flowering. In room conditions, it is difficult to achieve such a temperature, because heating radiators are located next to the windowsill.

Therefore, flower growers either take the plants out to a cool balcony, loggia, or protect them from a heat source using partitions made of thick cardboard, foam and other materials at hand.

IMPORTANT: The cactus does not like frequent rearrangements. Do not turn it the other side to the light (put a mark on the pot so as not to be mistaken), for a more even growth - it is absolutely impossible to do this during budding and the beginning of flowering!

SEE ALSO:

1. HOW IMPORTANT IS THE CORRECT LIGHTING FOR PLANTS?

2. WHAT LAMPS IS BETTER FOR LIGHTING HOME FLOWERS?

3. WHAT TEMPERATURE REGIME WILL BE OPTIMAL IN HOME CONDITIONS?

Such a lonely and such a beautiful cactus ...

How to properly water a cactus at home?

Many growers think about how to water a cactus at home and do the right thing, because watering plays a very important role in the life of a plant.

For watering cacti, it is recommended to use only soft water. You can water them from above into a pot or into a pan - both methods are correct.

Next, we will tell you in detail about watering the plant at home in all seasons.

How often should a cactus be watered? (winter spring Summer Autumn)

Winter

From November to early March, cacti have a dormant period. At this time, the need for moisture is minimal. In order for the cactus to bloom, you need a low temperature and poor watering.

Large and old specimens are watered once every 4 weeks, and small ones more often - once every 14-20 days with a small amount of water (literally one or two tablespoon). You can spray cacti with warm water once a month - before budding and flowering and water once a month.

During the period of budding and the beginning of flowering, epiphytic cacti and prickly pears can be watered, and cereus are only sprayed with warm water. Waterlogging leads to the fact that "babies" grow from buds instead of flowers.

• Many flower growers recommend not watering cacti at all in winter and get excellent results of flowering and further development.

The editors of the "Holiday of Flowers" magazine remind you that you need to remember the specific features. If in doubt, water your cacti in the winter using the gentle regimen described above.

Spring

As the temperature rises and the amount of light increases, cacti "come to life" and the need for water gradually increases.

Watering cacti in the spring is recommended to start after the start of growth (young green skin at the top): March - once every 12-16 days, April - once every 8-12 days, May - once every 5-7 days.

Spray about once every 14-20 days. The terms are approximate for central Russia, the principle is the same: the warmer and lighter, the more often.

Summer

In summer, cacti are watered most often, as the maximum growth and intensive development of the plant occurs.

How often should a cactus be watered in summer?

Most species recommend watering in the morning every day or every other day with a little water. An exception is cloudy weather, no watering is required on such a day.

Autumn

In the fall, the cactus is gradually prepared for a dormant period and subsequent flowering. They are watered less and less along with a decrease in temperature: September - once every 5-7 days, October - once every 10-14 days.

From November to March (dormant period), a small amount every 25-30 days.

General rule: watering cacti is better less and less than more and more.

WE RECOMMEND TO FIND OUT:

1. IRRIGATION OF INDOOR PLANTS FROM "A" to "Z" - A REVIEW!

2. WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO WATER HOME FLOWERS?

3. WHAT WATER DO HOUSE PLANTS NEED AND HOW TO PREPARE IT?

4. HOW TO WATER ROOM FLOWERS DURING VACATION?

Top dressing and fertilizers

The use of fertilizers for cacti is covered in different ways in the literature and is accompanied by a long debate. We can say for sure that cacti need a small amount of nitrogen and an excess of it leads to improper plant development.

Therefore, organic fertilizers are not recommended for use, except for small doses for rapidly growing and epiphytic species.

Cacti need calcium and phosphorus, and potassium during the flowering period. Therefore, it is better to use a special fertilizer for cacti and succulents.

Fertilizer "Cactus" with a balanced composition of micro- and macroelements is quite popular. Release form - 0.5 liter bottle.

Universal feeding period: from April to early September every two weeks.

ATTENTION!

• The growth and flowering period of cacti often does not coincide, so do not fertilize in winter when the plant is blooming. For these species, you can slightly increase the watering.
• Do not apply fertilizer to cactus after or before transplanting.

CREATE KNOWLEDGE:

1. WHAT ARE THE TYPES OF FERTILIZERS AND HOW TO USE THEM?

2. WHAT HOME AND NATURAL FERTILIZERS ARE THE MOST EFFECTIVE?

3. HOW CORRECTLY TO FEED ROOM PLANTS?

Different types of cacti

Transplanting a cactus at home + soil

It is best to replant the cactus from late March to late May. Young plants are transplanted every year, and adults (from 4 years old) every 2-3 years before the start of active vegetation (March).

Transplant plan

1. Do not water the flower 3-4 days before transplanting for the convenience of separating the soil from the roots.
2. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to use a drainage layer (2-4 cm) - stagnant water is contraindicated for cacti (especially for epiphytes). Fill the holes with shards, pour fine gravel, expanded clay, charcoal or coarse sand on top.
3. Depending on the depth of the pot and the length of the roots, a 2-4 cm layer of soil mixture is poured on top of the drainage. The plant is placed on the ground and the roots are straightened, while the base of the cactus should be in line with the edge of the pot.
4. After that, they begin to fall asleep around the substrate to the root collar, periodically shaking the pot and compacting the soil. On top of the substrate, you can pour a 1 cm layer of sand.
5. The first 3-4 days after transplanting a cactus, do not water it or place it in direct sunlight.

How to choose a cactus pot?

The main thing is that the volume of the cactus pot is not much larger than the volume in the expanded form of the root system and takes into account the peculiarities of the species.

Example: Ariocarpus is suitable for a deeper than a wide pot, and for mammillaria many children appear and many plants grow in one dish over time.

For specimens with short and branched roots, a low and wide pot is selected, for a cactus with long roots or a rod type, a deeper and narrower one is suitable.

The form... Between the square and round shape of the container, it is better to choose the second option. However, if you have a large number of cacti or are constantly expanding your collection, then square or rectangular pots save space on the windowsill and are easier to carry on a tray to another location.

Material. Both plastic and clay are suitable. Cacti are not picky about the material, they do not recommend using only a metal container.

Soil mix

The soil for cacti differs depending on its type, age, etc. Experienced florists can find various examples of the substrate.

The general features are as follows: the soil for a cactus should be loose, slightly acidic (pH = 4.5 - 6), light and nutritious (the ratio of minerals is different).

A typical DIY potting mix would be leafy earth and river sand (1: 1) + some peat (acidity) and powder with small chunks of hardwood charcoal.

Young plants and seedlings need a looser and more nutritious potting mix (increase the amount of leafy soil). A denser substrate is suitable for adult plants; for this, clay-sod soil is added to it.

• Tricks: for rapidly growing species, it is useful to add humus to the substrate. For cacti with a lot of thorns, it is useful to add crushed eggshells to the mixture.

USEFUL INFORMATION:

1. SECRETS OF CORRECT TRANSPORTATION OF INDOOR PLANTS!

2. WHAT SOIL MIX COMPONENTS HOW TO USE?

3. WHEN TO REPLAY ROOM FLOWERS ON THE LUNAR CALENDAR?

How do cacti breed?

The cactus can be propagated vegetatively or using seeds.

How to grow cacti from seeds at home?

To grow a cactus from seeds, it is better to use seeds from the store, since at home, due to over-pollination, related specimens are crossed.

In order to grow cacti from seeds at home, you need to be patient and make a lot of effort.

1. Cactus seeds are disinfected in a solution with manganese.
2. The substrate is poured in a layer of 1-2 cm, moistened and seeds are laid out on top. Then they are covered with a film or wall.
3. Air cactus seeds 1-2 times a day and keep the soil mixture moist.
4. After the appearance of the first thorns (depending on the type, seeds can germinate from 2-3 days to 2-3 months), the sprouts are transplanted into containers with a more nutritious substrate than in adult cacti.
5. When the seedlings are about three months old, they are cared for in the same way as adult cacti.

• Advice: cactus seeds are best planted so that they germinate in March-April.

Propagation of cacti by cuttings

It is more convenient and efficient to propagate cacti by cuttings. Many species have lateral babies with rudimentary roots that can be easily separated and can be immediately planted in the potting mix.

Cacti that do not have children are a little more difficult to propagate:

1.Cut off a healthy shoot or stem section.

2. The cut site is dried in the sun for 3-4 days and then planted in a moist soil mixture.

How to plant cacti correctly? Video

RECOMMENDATIONS:

1. REPRODUCTION OF ROOM FLOWERS - OVERVIEW!

2. VEGETATIVE REPRODUCTION OF HOUSEHOLD PLANTS IN DETAILS!

Pests and diseases

An excess of moisture, especially in winter, leads to the formation of rot. When the roots decay, the cactus is taken out of the pot, the roots are washed with running water, and dried.

Then rotted leaves and stems, soft and dark roots are cut off, and also treated with an antiseptic (only roots). Plant the cactus in a new pot and do not water until it begins to grow.

Of the pests, cactus affects: spider mites, aphids, scale insects and mealybugs.

• The main thing is to inspect the plant through a magnifying glass weekly and avoid excessively dry air. Remember that regular inspection is much easier and more enjoyable than pest control or disease treatment.

FLOWER REMINDER:

1. PESTS OF ROOM FLOWERS WITH PHOTOS AND DESCRIPTIONS!

2. HOW TO REMOVE PESTS IN HOME CONDITIONS?

3. POPULAR DISEASES OF HOUSEHOLD PLANTS!

If you have questions about how to care for a cactus at home, you can ask them in the comments.