A chisel for concrete for a perforator: purpose, types and what is it made of?

The main malfunctions of the punch and their external signs

Depending on the operating conditions, this device may cause problems, both mechanically and electrically.

The hammer drill scheme is pretty close to that of an electric drill. One of the differences is that instead of an ordinary gear pair transmitting torque to the tool, a full-fledged gearbox is mounted in the hammer drill. It is designed to convert the torque generated by the electric motor into the reciprocating movement of the chuck.

Punch device

Malfunctions requiring repair can occur in almost any part of the device. But before starting the repair, it is required to diagnose the breakdown and identify the reasons that led to its appearance.

It should be noted that detecting a breakdown is not difficult, but sometimes you have to disassemble the punch body for this.

Like any technical device, the electric rock drill has some weak points in the design. It is they who are the cause of breakdowns that require repair. It is not uncommon for a perforator to fail due to the fault of a worker who operates it in extreme modes and in violation of operating rules.

It must be understood that the main faults occur in the electrical or mechanical part. In the mechanical part, the following problems most often occur:

the device does not perform its main functions - drilling and drilling;
jamming of the drill in the chuck;
the nozzle is not installed in the chuck;
extraneous noise during the operation of the device.

Punch scheme

In an electrician, the following defects are most often manifested:

the engine does not work;
excessive sparking of brushes;
the appearance of burning or the smell of burnt insulation.

The beginning of the repair begins with cleaning the body of the device. This is necessary at least to prevent dirt from getting into the disassembled perforator.

How to choose the right one

An important role in the choice is played by the quality of performance, as well as the shank, and the length. But in this case it is not worth saving, in any case, you will have to take a high-quality product, the price in relation to the quality is almost the same (depending on the place of purchase), but the actual service life has a very big difference. Where one drill will last for at least a couple of days, the other, with proper operation with the tool, will be in service for several years from the moment of active operation.

The decisive factor when choosing accessories for a perforator is played by the material of manufacture; serious requirements are imposed on such products. The drill must withstand heavy loads during operation, not break, and not crack. The base should be of medium thickness, too thin will quickly disable it. The harsh operating conditions are due to the difficulty of drilling concrete, it must withstand constant pressure applied to it, frequent bends, and an increase in transverse pressure. A poor-quality product can break down already within the first 5 minutes from the moment of starting work, in other words, not even having passed 1/3 of the way from its length.

What are concrete chisels made of?

Chisels in most cases are made of forged steel (chrome vanadium, chrome molybdenum). The material is highly durable, which ensures productivity. The hardening of the device takes place at a temperature of 750-8000. At home, it depends on what grade of steel is taken, for example, 730-9500 is suitable for low-carbon steel.

The device is warmed up evenly, without jumps in temperature, so that there is no jump between the outer and inner parts. After that, it must be placed in the oven. Such a technique will have a better effect on steel than sharp heating. After heating, it must be immediately cooled with water or oil. You should take more liquids.
To obtain the best strength of the metal, it is necessary to cool slowly at first, and from 650 to 400 degrees - faster. Do not be afraid that the liquid begins to evaporate and from this the metal is not in it, but as if it is enveloped in steam. This is the correct course of work. It provides gradual cooling. When the appliance is less hot, this cocoon will disappear and it will quickly cool down.
You need to move the device into the water evenly to the surface and gradually, with the cutting edge down, after which you need to turn it in different directions to avoid a rapid temperature drop and reduce the cocoon. This technique will help to harden the edges and leave a special core.
Those who, at least once, were busy with the usual renovation of an apartment, faced with the dilemma of breaking off an old tile, a piece of brick laying, grooving a groove for wiring, know that this will require not only a perforator, but also attachments for it. They come in different shapes, it all depends on your goal.
Sds punch blade (chisel). With the help of a spatula, you can chip off a piece of uneven concrete or brick part, beat off bad tiles in the bathroom or toilet, in general, level and iron out all the irregularities and inaccuracies in the construction of a house. It so happens that when installing a new door, it turns out that the opening is completely uneven (not in levels), in this case it is necessary to chop off a piece of the wall, then install the door straight. When installing skirting boards, you have to mess around for a long time and knock down inaccuracies and influxes from the floor with a chisel.
The chisel width can be twenty mm forty mm or more, depending on the nature of the work performed. Twenty mm is most often used, a wide device is more suitable for breaking tiles.
The total length is 250 mm, the quality is slightly less, about 220 mm. Standard SDS-Plus connector.

Peak.

It is used for punching holes in brick and concrete, for example, under a pipe, if a crown is not available. But the hole will come out, in other words, uneven, it will be necessary to cover it up.

Views

Its design is similar to a drill - there is a spiral for removing debris from the hole (there are models in which the collection and removal of dust occurs inside) and a shank.

The spiral grooves are not cutting elements, but only serve to remove small particles from the hole during drilling. Only the edge (there can be one or several of them, and have different sharpening), located at the end of the drill, cuts the material. Since a hammer drill is a percussion tool, the cutting part is made rounded, and not sharp like drills for a drill, this increases the strength and service life of the equipment, also, due to vibrations when working with the tool, it is not used on fragile materials, because it will be easily split from accidental movement and the product will no longer be suitable for construction work.

It is worth paying special attention to the shape of the working part, as it greatly affects performance.

If it is straight or with a slight soldering, this will lead to an additional load on the equipment, and the nozzle itself will become blunt faster.

A good option for work is a drill with a centering tip, while the cutting edges are designed so that they will also self-sharpen during work.

It is worth remembering the degree of delamination of the material being drilled. If you choose the shape of the head with a centering spike, then in brick or concrete this indicator will be minimal, that is, the drill will create a hole in which the fasteners will be stronger.

There can be from 2 to 4 cutting edges. In addition to the varieties of the working surface, the drills are subdivided according to the type of spiral groove for waste disposal.

Grooving is a prime indicator of how efficiently drilling debris will be removed.

Pay attention to the angle of inclination of the spiral grooves on the storm. Small - means that it is designed for continuous work at low intensity, the drilling speed is reduced, while the wear of the equipment is minimal

The larger the angle, the higher the productivity and the greater the load on the hammer drill, it heats up faster, which means you will have to work intermittently for the equipment to cool down. Also, the indisputable disadvantage is the lowest strength compared to the first.

Consider by the type of slag channel:

What it is?

Externally, it is a long metal rod with a pointed tip. Consists of two elements:

a recoil pad with a shank at the end, necessary for secure fixation of the nozzle in the hammer drill chuck;
cutting edge - the main working surface of the blade, may differ in shape and size.

On sale you can find several types of butt pad. It should be selected based on the design of the chuck on your rock drill. Basic types:

SDS-plus. Has a diameter of 10 mm and 4 open slots for fixing. Used to work with light tools weighing up to 5 kg;
SDS-max. It is used for installation in heavy professional or industrial rock drills weighing from 5 to 12 kg. The shank design is represented by 4 grooves, diameter - from 18 mm;
HEX. Butt plate with hex shank. Used only for heavy tools weighing 12 kg or more. Provides secure fit and stable torque.

Spatula-shaped bits, unlike hand-held chisels, cannot be used alone without a hammer drill. They are necessary for punching holes, dismantling and chipping walls for electrical wiring. Due to their high strength, the blades can be used for working with strong materials such as reinforced concrete, brick and stone.

Comments:

Palych

Well, I wouldn't really write off the hammer and chisel. If you need to cut through 10 cm grooves, you can do with the old-fashioned method. For such a purpose, I would not bother with a wall chaser in combination with a vacuum cleaner or even a puncher. But it all depends on the wall, of course.

Lech

Palych, that's right, it depends on the wall. In new buildings now such concrete is poured that no hand chisel can take it. It is almost impossible to scrape 5 mm deep. Not every wall chaser takes it. An ordinary grinder does not take either. Only Hilti.

Mahmut

The article is good, but why is it written that you can only gouge vertically? What if I need it horizontally? If I need to make two sockets on the same level?

Lech

Mahmut, if two sockets are on the same level, then you will shtrobut from the ceiling to this level. Of course, you can cut the strobe even diagonally, but how can you then look for wires in the wall?

Sergey

And to look for wires in the wall with a usual sensor - tolerance + - 5 mm.

Oleg

What the hell is vertical and horizontal strobes? I pull the cable into the room, put the box down, go down to the first outlet 35 cm from the floor and drive the strobe horizontally from the outlet block to the next one. Pictures, carpets, shelves are not hung at this height. And everyone knows that the cable runs in a straight line from the socket to the socket. Sometimes this is the best option. And we are offered to put a bunch of boxes on top.

Preparatory work

Draw a plan of electrical wiring in the apartment before chasing - Photo

Proposed routes for wall chasing for wiring and places of electrical fittings installation points are transferred to the plan, taking into account the proximity of door, window openings, niches and ledges, communications. On its basis, a calculation is made of the amount of required materials, as well as the labor intensity of the proposed work.

The plan is also necessary in order to have a real picture of the electrical network device in a particular room in the future.

Then the plan in the form of markings is transferred to the previously inspected wall or enclosing structures. After that, you can start work.

Laying routes or gating for wiring is performed in the following ways.

With a hand tool (chisel).
A hammer drill or hammer drill.
Angle grinder (grinder) with subsequent sampling of the material with a chisel or perforator.
A special tool is a chasing cutter.

In rooms with an arranged interior, the use of power tools requires maximum localization of the work site, since the formation of fine dust in extremely large volumes is inevitable. It is necessary to decide how to properly groove the walls for wiring, taking into account this main factor.

Concrete hammer chisels