Zhiguli wheels on a walk-behind tractor: how to put it yourself? What to do if it is difficult to control the walk-behind tractor

ICE-based technology

Homemade products with installed internal combustion engines have more power and functionality than their electric counterparts. This allows you to significantly expand the scope of their use. Attachments in the form of a plow, plane cutter, cultivator, rake, easily attached to the frame bracket. Also, the unit can be easily transformed into a roller or a home mini-tractor.

Asking the question "how to make a homemade walk-behind tractor", first of all, you need to understand its device. To assemble a home-made motor-cultivator with your own hands, you need, first of all, an engine, a transmission and a reduction gear.

For assembly work, you will need a standard set of tools: a set of wrenches, a drill, a grinder, a welding machine, and when assembling more complex and lifting machines, also turning and milling processing of some units.

Chainsaw cultivator

Perhaps the best option when making a homemade cultivator is to use a chainsaw engine when creating it. The advantages here are the performance and power of the unit, low demands on fuel, light weight and compactness. Yes, and with components during its assembly, there will be no special difficulties. Everything you need can be found at the car market or flea markets.

General diagram of the walk-behind tractor:

the frame of the walk-behind tractor is made in the form of a rhombus from a metal corner with a size of 3200x3200x3200 mm;
the engine is mounted on the crossbars from above, the gas tank, as a rule, is mounted slightly lower;
the intermediate shaft supports are attached to the front struts;
travel shaft supports are installed on longitudinal ribs

To adjust the speed, a native gearbox is used, motorcycle sprockets (main and intermediate,) are also used, the number of teeth of which is selected taking into account the required output power. The working tools of the unit are made in the form of wheels with knives and can perform the function of a trimmer, milling cutter or a motor-chopper.

Alternatively, you can use the engine from a petrol cutter, which is similar in its characteristics to the drive of a chainsaw.

Motoblock from a motorcycle

Often, old motor vehicles can rust in garages and sheds for years, but they can easily find a second life. Motorcycle engines are great for making a homemade cultivator with your own hands, but two-stroke engines from older models, as well as from scooters, are most often used. But recently, motors from scooters or mopeds have been actively used, giving a second life to broken equipment by alteration.

There are several types of transmission:

toothed - the most common and easily mounted;
combined (toothed-worm gear);
chain-belt, toothed;
a hydraulic gearbox is gaining popularity, but the most expensive in comparison with a mechanical type of transmission.

Possible schemes

A frame of the required size is welded from the corner, to which an engine with a fuel supply system and a gas tank is attached. The transmission of torque from the reduction gear to the wheels is carried out through a chain. In this case, you can use a bridge from a donor motorcycle installed on a wheel axle. All controls are transferred to the steering wheel of the unit.

When designing heavier equipment, a typical ZID-5 engine or its other modifications, which were previously widely used on various units, is used. In conjunction with it, a gearbox from "Zaporozhets" and a lightweight drive axle are installed.

Power distribution options

Structurally, the simplest way to solve the problem arising from the rigid coupling of the wheels is to use overrunning clutches, which allow the wheel to rotate faster than the axle driving it.

Overrunning clutches

This mechanism is generally known in all its variations: both with a ratchet mechanism (bicycle wheel hub) and with roller wedging (electric starter bendix).

Overrunning clutches are also used in the power drive of a number of vehicles with connected axles. However, such a solution has a characteristic feature: when cornering, the overrunning clutch is disconnected at the wheel running along the outer radius, since it tends to rotate faster than the drive shaft.

To facilitate entry into a turn, on the contrary, most of the torque should be imparted to him.

This problem is solved in the classic gear differential, which distributes power in inverse proportion to the resistance to rotation of the wheels.

How to make it yourself

Of course, purchasing an adapter for a walk-behind tractor, ready for use, is the best and simple way out of the situation. For all that, they really cost quite a lot, so not every farmer or just a summer resident is ready to afford their purchase. It is not surprising why many are wondering how to make an adapter with their own hands.

This, of course, is possible, and on the net you can find quite a few recommendations that relate to self-made adapters. Moreover, there are many drawings that make it possible to examine this device more clearly and in detail.

Using them, it is quite possible to create such a unit in a domestic environment, using a minimum of tools and materials. To produce a homemade adapter, you will need:

welding machine;
pair of wheels;
steel corners and sheets;
driver's seat;
fasteners; iron pipes.

All work will consist of several steps:

We take a square metal profile, approximately 1800 mm long. We weld the same iron flap across it, only of a smaller size - about 600 mm. In the future, wheel stands will be fixed to this profile sheet, the height of which should be about 300 mm.
After that, you need to attach the braces. Attach them to the center frame and to the wheels. Any angle of the wheel hubs relative to the frame is allowed, whatever you want. A beam is additionally welded to the metal profile. This is necessary to strengthen the frame.
The frame for additional equipment is welded from channel No. 10.
It is aligned with the wheel axle by means of a piece of square pipe, and the seams are welded with a welding machine.
Now we weld a control lever with three knees to the frame (200, 350 550 and millimeters).
We attach another one (size 800 mm) to the lever, it will regulate the force.
The levers are connected together with ordinary bolts.

The first stage has been completed. Let's move on to the next one.

Working with adapter design

Now starts working with the adapter. To do this, we perform the following actions:

A piece of 300mm pipe needs to be welded to the center frame - this will be a stand for the driver's seat.
From above, perpendicular to this stand, in the same way, weld 2 pieces of pipe. This is required so that the seat does not come off during operation and is more stable during shaking during operation. The seat can be ready-made, or you can make it yourself from a piece of plywood and foam rubber, this is at the discretion of the master.
We attach the seat to the transverse pieces of the pipe, which we weld to the stand itself, as well as to the stand under the seat. We use ordinary bolts as a fastening element.
We weld the coupling mechanism with the walk-behind tractor in front, after which the work can be considered finished.

Steering adapter

If you have the skills, then if you wish, the design can be somewhat complicated by making a homemade adapter for the walk-behind tractor, to which you can also attach the steering.

To implement this idea, you will need to prepare the following materials and tools:

welding machine;
seat;
2 wheels; steel pipes and corners;
iron sheets.

With this design, the adapter frame must be firmly connected to the walk-behind tractor, otherwise the device will, as they say, "lead along the sides." For the design, you can take any ready-made steering wheel, even from old "soviet" cars (from the same from VAZ, for example).

Adapters for any walk-behind tractor, including for the Neva, make it possible to significantly increase the operator's comfort when driving a mini-tractor. In fact, the driver no longer has to constantly drag behind the device. Now he can just sit in a comfortable seat and do all the same, only with more comfort and more warmth.

The design of such units is quite simple, and independent production of them at home is quite possible. Here it must be borne in mind that home assembly implies the presence of at least basic skills in welding, as well as accompanying tools. You will also need to stock up on a large number of corners and metal pipes so as not to stop working due to a lack of material. In general, the expediency of hand-made assembly of the adapter is, especially considering that this significantly saves money.

A modern walk-behind tractor is a high-tech machine for high-quality soil cultivation. With its use, the forces and time of its owner are significantly saved. Many units are subject to modernization due to the use of additional structures and sheds. Among them is an adapter for a walk-behind tractor.

Completion of the Oka walk-behind tractor with your own hands

Do-it-yourself motoblock improvements can be almost any, it all depends on engineering skills and the availability of the necessary resources. The Oka walk-behind tractor can be upgraded in different ways: improve what is already there, or add various devices and fixtures.

The most common tweak is engine replacement, as a factory-fitted engine may not suit the owner. When changing the engine, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the walk-behind tractor itself, as well as the loads to which it will be subjected. Depending on the class of the walk-behind tractor, an engine of appropriate power is selected - the heavier, the more powerful the motor.

You can modify the Oka walk-behind tractor in the same ways that are used for other brands: creating trailers, various attachments, replacing wheels, improving driving performance, etc.

Have you upgraded your walk-behind tractor?

Procedure

After a suitable drawing (layout of components) has been selected, the necessary tools have been found and the Druzhba saw has been dismantled, you can proceed to assembly. You should start with the frame, since all the elements of the engine block will be attached to it. The process is completed by the assembly of the chassis, as well as additional blocks: if desired - headlights, gearboxes and clutches, if the drawing is more complex and suggests them. For the first time, it is best to choose a simpler drawing.

Assembling the frame

The first stage involves the following actions:

we bend the pipe so that it takes the form of 2 spars with upwardly directed edges;
the steering wheel is welded at the back (the easiest way is to weld two handles, but if available, you can use a ready-made steering wheel from a motorcycle);
it is recommended to strengthen the structure with crossbars from the same pipe;
from a metal sheet we cut out a "shelf" for the battery, which we weld to the rear bends of the side members.

It turns out a distant semblance of a sled. For heavier structures with more powerful power units, the frame can be made in the form of a cube or similar to a tractor for 4-wheel homemade products.

Assembling the engine block

The most difficult stage is assembling the components. Before proceeding with it, it is necessary to mark on the frame the places to which the parts will be attached. The principle is as follows:

a motor with a gearbox is mounted on top of the crossbars;
a fuel tank is installed under the engine (a separate support should be welded under it), the battery is attached to a special platform;
To prevent exhaust gases from entering the control unit, you can make an exhaust pipe from a 7 cm metal tube with a diameter of up to 25 cm.

This is the basic version without a gearbox, which is optional. Drawings will help to understand the assembly in more detail. By and large, the details of "Friendship" are simply rearranged in places. The hitch is connected to the output shaft of the chainsaw.

Undercarriage assembly

There are at least two options: you can use a ready-made semi-axle from a car or make a home-made walk-behind tractor driven by physical force (the "undercarriage" of an old trolley or wheelbarrow will come in handy, which will significantly reduce the weight and dimensions, because the automotive semi-axle will require the use of tires). In the first case, it will be necessary to organize the drive from the motor to the semi-axle, which is not easy enough, therefore, to weld the "chassis" of the wheelbarrow to the frame is a more understandable option.

It is not difficult to figure out how to make a walk-behind tractor from a chainsaw if you understand the general principle of operation of both units. In addition to "Friendship", the Ural and Taiga saws are also suitable for the walk-behind tractor. When deciding on an experiment, it should be understood that the homemade product will have limited functionality and low power, allowing you to process a maximum of 20 acres.

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The motoblock is an effective assistant in the processes of cultivating the land, as well as further caring for the garden and garden. The easiest way to get this device is, of course, to buy it. However, there is an option of making it using an engine from a chainsaw, in particular from the Soviet "Friendship". Its powerful engine, uncomplicated design and overall unpretentiousness make it well suited for this role.

Views

Pneumatic wheels for motoblocks "Neva" have 4 elements in the design:

tire or tire;
camera;
disk;
hub.

They are placed on the gearbox shaft, the spikes should be directed in the direction of travel. In our country, such wheels are represented by four models.

"Kama-421" can withstand a possible load of 160 kilograms, while the width is 15.5 centimeters. The weight of one wheel is almost 7 kilograms.
The L-360 model is lighter, although it looks almost the same - 4.6 kg. From the outside, the diameter is 47.5 centimeters, and the maximum load that the product can withstand is 180 kg.
The support wheel "L-355" weighs the same as the previous model, the maximum load is also the same as the outer diameter.
"L-365" is capable of withstanding 185 kilograms, while the outer diameter of the wheel is only 42.5 centimeters, and the weight of the structure is 3.6 kg.

Metal wheels or lugs are used when it becomes necessary to increase traction. They are also supplied for sale in several types:

wide;
narrow.

If the work is carried out with a plow, then wide ones are the best option. They are also used when vehicles have to drive on wet dirt tracks. It is advised to load each wheel with an additional weight of 20 kg.

Narrow wheels are necessary for hilling when plants grow to 25 centimeters or less.

Traction wheels "Neva" 16 * 6, 50-8 are necessary if the walk-behind tractor is used as a tractor. There is no chamber inside, so there is no fear that the wheel may burst due to a heavy load or because it has been pumped over. Inside, the pressure is close to two atmospheres.

There are restrictions on the load that can act on one wheel, and this is 280 kilograms. The total weight of the whole set is 13 kilograms.

Wheels 4 * 8 are characterized by a small diameter and low pressure inside, so it is better to install them on a trailer. They are short, but wider than some other types, so they are great for transportation.

Metal "KUM 680" are used during hilling. Features include a solid rim and spikes, which are 7 centimeters long. They are located at an angle, therefore, while moving, they lift and turn the ground. If we take the diameter along the rim, then it is 35 centimeters.

"KUM 540" have a significant difference from the previous model - a non-continuous rim. The spikes are V-shaped, so not only they sink into the soil, but also the rim. On the hoop, the wheel diameter is 460 mm. The only drawback of such lugs is the absence of an extension cord, since they are not sold in the standard version.

The "H" wheels can be praised for their impressive height and width. They are best used when plowing frozen soil. The track width is 200 mm, there are spikes on the surface that perfectly enter the ground and lift it with ease. Their height is 80 mm.

The same lugs, but designed for plowing the field, are equipped with a long sleeve. The track remains 650 mm wide.

There is an iron model mini "N", which has a lot in common with the "KUM". The wheel is 320 mm in diameter and 160 mm wide.

There is a mini "N" for hilling

Such metal wheels differ in diameter, which is 240 mm, if we take into account the hoop. Spikes only 40 mm

How to make do-it-yourself lugs

Homemade grousers for a walk-behind tractor can be made from machine disks. If a farmer has an old car, which is a pity to throw in a landfill, with whole discs and rims, then they can be used to make lugs for a walk-behind tractor from car disks.

For this you will need:

rims;
welding machine (or grinder);
square plates;
drawing or diagram of lugs for the walk-behind tractor (it will greatly facilitate the work).

So, in order to make lugs for the walk-behind tractor from the disks of the machine, you need to weld the axle shaft to them, on which the bearings are then put on. Square plates must be welded to the disks from the car.

After the performed procedures, it is necessary to make plate-teeth that will bite into the soil, providing the necessary adhesion to it. The teeth can be made from solid metal layers by cutting out the required size with a welding machine or by welding small plates together.

The teeth are welded to square plates on discs at a distance of 15-16 cm from each other. A deviation of 2-3 cm is permissible, but for the best operation of the unit, you must carefully follow the instructions of the drawings and diagrams.

If the old car is not available, but there is a used gas cylinder, then there is another way to make lugs on the walk-behind tractor with your own hands.

For this you will need:

gas bottle (used);
grinder or welding machine;
metal teeth plates;
drawings or diagrams of grousers of the motoblock of the desired brand.

First, you need to cut out two discs from the cylinder, which will serve as rims for the wheels of the walk-behind tractor. Then, as in the first option, weld square plates, and teeth to them.

Another option is to weld steel lugs. For this you will need:

steel layers 4-5 mm thick;
steel layers 6-8 mm thick;
welding machine or grinder;
drill or hammer drill.

A thinner sheet must be cut into two discs, in the center of which holes must be made for the hub. Cut sawtooth waves along the outer edges, with a wave depth of 100 mm. Triangles with cut corners must be cut out of a denser steel layer, welded perpendicular to the waves. The structure is ready for use.

Of course, such lugs differ in appearance from their counterparts, but they also have many advantages.

Differentials for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

A differential hub is necessary if the walk-behind tractor is not equipped with an unblocker, which reduces maneuverability. In the case when such a mechanism is installed, during the turn, one wheel begins to move faster due to the unlocking, thereby reducing the steering angle.

You can also use a locking pivot extension, which is easy to make with your own hands. A homemade extension cord locks one of the wheels, creating a differentiated wheel movement. The differential changes the distribution of torque between the wheels, which allows steering without slipping.

You can make a differential with your own hands from improvised means, parts from cars or specially made parts. It can be a hub or extension with or without overrunning clutch. In the simplest version, you need to take a bushing with a transverse slot and insert a short axle into it. The last element is necessarily fixed with a bolt, and after that it is attached to the wheel structure. This system works quite simply. The drive axle must turn the bushing until it stops, that is, until it comes into contact with the bolt. It is worth noting that with this element the master can initially set the most suitable wheel rotation angle for him, which also depends on the size of the slot.

A feature of such a detail is its maximum simplicity. It is not necessary to be an experienced craftsman or mechanic to make such a differential for your walk-behind tractor. It is enough just to have certain skills of working on the machine. This will be enough to obtain the basic elements that are needed to make such a differential.

Conclusion on the topic

Today on sale there is a huge number of a wide variety of devices for weighting the wheels and frames of walk-behind tractors. They are convenient, but they have a pretty impressive cost.

Independent work will not only save a good amount, but also make a load of the required weight, configuration, give it a suitable color and additional functionality. Thus, a fixed basket and welded bolts can be used to transport oil, fuel and clothing. Additional fasteners are useful for harvesting, storing tools, spare parts, fishing equipment when traveling to the pond. A creative approach to the issue of weighting motoblocks will significantly expand the capabilities of these irreplaceable machines.