Choice
Most portable drills have chucks screwed onto a threaded spindle that is connected to the drill and then held in place with a set screw. To understand which element you need to buy to replace the old one, you need to open the petals to the widest point and look into the base with a flashlight
If you can see the screw at the bottom of the chuck, you should pay attention to the type of head. If it is missing, then it is probably a tapered spindle.
When buying, it should also be borne in mind that the element must ensure the proper rigidity of the fastening, taking into account the number of revolutions. More expensive models reduce the radial runout.
Last but not least is the convenience of using the chuck, in this case the quick-clamping ones are in the first position, but when it comes to durability, it is better to buy with a key.
If carbide drills are used, then the chuck must self-center as this tool has poor buckling resistance.
It is important to know that the rigidity of the attachment is always compared with the length of the nozzle and the material from which it is made.
Drill chucks: varieties (video)
If the model of a mini-drill or screwdriver is equipped with a special type of blocker, then a clamping single-sleeve element must be used. On tools without a locking device, a double sleeve element or a mini-chuck is used. As a rule, the body of such a device is made of plastic, and a steel alloy is used to make the mechanism and cams.
Any option for independent repair work requires knowledge of the device and the main components:
- tapered gripping lips;
- inner part with lips;
- external clamping part.
Methods for mounting cartridges
Hand drills use two types of drill chuck fastening:
- Morse taper - Tapered shaft shank and corresponding hole in the chuck.
- Threaded fastening - the thread on the shaft, onto which the chuck is screwed like a nut.
Take a close look at the metal rod between the body and the chuck. In the case of a threaded fit, open-end wrench splines are usually visible, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.
The method of fastening is also indicated by the marking embossed on the cartridge:
- Morse taper is designated by the abbreviation B10, B12, etc. (B - taper, number - maximum drill size).
- In the marking of the threaded cartridge there is a designation of the type and diameter of the thread: M13 (metric by 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (inch by half an inch).
The edges of the fixing screw of the cartridge are licked off what to do
What to do if the edges of the screw head are licked inside the cartridge? A very common problem that can be solved very well. First, consider the reasons why the edges lick off on the screw:
- Without reading the instructions, the owner tries to unscrew the screw counterclockwise. If there is a screw inside, then turn it clockwise to unscrew it, that is, vice versa
- Incorrectly selected tool, that is, a slotted screwdriver is used that licks off the edges of the screw. Before use, you should choose the right screwdriver as much as possible.
- Poor quality screw. This is usually found on cheap Chinese devices.
However, if the edges of the screw are licked, then do not rush to change the tool. There are different ways to unscrew it:
- If the head of the screw is cross-shaped, but the edges are lapped, then you can use a flat-head screwdriver. Manufacturers have foreseen the likelihood of licking the edges, so you can unscrew the screw not only with a Phillips screwdriver, but also with a slotted screwdriver. Usually this method helps to solve the problem.
- Use a blower gun to try to clean the debris inside the head splines. Often a large amount of dirt accumulates in the cap, which interferes with a good connection with the screw.
- Take a screwdriver, and by attaching it to the screw head, apply a few light but sharp blows. The screwdriver will go deep into the head of the chuck screw, which will increase the likelihood of its unscrewing
- Cut off a piece of rubber, and placing it on top of the cap, try to hook through it with a screwdriver on the remaining edges, and unscrew
- If all methods have been tried, then all that remains is either to disassemble the screwdriver or drill with the subsequent replacement of the executive body together with the shaft from the gearbox or the grinder to cut the cartridge. Having opened access to the screw head, you can grab it with a hand vice and twist it out. The cartridge must be replaced after this method.
In this case, there is no need to replace the entire tool at all.
Remove the threaded chuck
On drills with a reversing function, the drill chuck is additionally secured with a locking screw visible through the open jaws.
Locking screw of the threaded chuck.
The slots on the screw head can be cross-shaped, under a hexagon or even an "asterisk". Prepare the correct screwdriver, wrench or bit. Use a tool with full splines that fit exactly the size.
We unscrew the locking screw of the cartridge.
Measure the size of the turnkey space on the drill shaft. Most likely, it will be 14 mm for a middle class instrument or 17 mm for a more powerful instrument.
We select the key to the cartridge.
Prepare an open-end wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from a bicycle repair kit or grind off the edges of a regular key on emery.
Cooking the open-end wrench.
While holding the drill shaft with a wrench, try to unscrew the screw with a screwdriver clockwise (left-hand thread).
Try not to rip the splines.
If the thread "does not go", fix the chuck of the electric drill in a vise and hit the screw head several times with a hammer through the steel rod.
The thread will now become more pliable and the screw will come loose.
The locking screw has been removed.
Then unscrew the cartridge itself counterclockwise (right-hand thread) using two keys - open-end and cartridge.
We unscrew the cartridge.
Difficulties may arise. Try to increase the lever by holding the Allen key in the chuck.
As a last resort, use a vise, placing a drill in them as in the photo below.
Move the chuck out of place by hitting the knob secured through the square head.
This method manages to unscrew the rather heavily stuck cartridges.
The threaded chuck removed from the drill.
After cleaning, install the chuck in reverse order, mindful of the different thread directions.
Put some paint on the threads before tightening the locking screw.
DIY drill chuck replacement
There are several of the most common problems that can be observed during the operation of the tool, and will require replacement of the chuck:
the falling of the fixed element is quite often observed. This problem occurs not only on old tools, but also on completely new models, which are characterized by a tapered cam attachment. As a rule, the fall of the part accompanies the process of drilling deep holes. V in this case, when lifting the drill and freeing it from the accumulated shavings, the chuck falls off the cone. This problem can be solved by increasing the tightness of the cone mate. For this purpose, you need to heat the cartridge in oil to a temperature of 110 ° C, and then put it on the fixing part of the cold tool;
if, when performing work, accompanied by the release of a significant amount of dust, shavings or dirt, the clamping lips are jammed, then the chuck must be disassembled correctly, and then carefully,but thoroughly clean and rinse all moving, working elements
Before assembling the part, it is very important to lubricate internally with a brush and lithol. A good result is the use of a homemade protective casing that prevents clogging of the working parts; if the chuck beats during the drilling process, then the reason may be significant wear of the seat cone
An equally common cause of this phenomenon can be uneven wear of the cams, which must be replaced. If necessary, a complete replacement of the broken cartridge is carried out.
Assembling the disassembled part is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, observing the rules for fastening to the tool.
Specificity of cone mounting
In modern hand drills, the Morse taper is rare. Such models are equipped with special pullers, and the dismantling process is displayed in the technical description.
In old Soviet drills, the design of the gearbox made it possible to remove the cartridge in rather crude ways. It was possible to try to separate the tapered surfaces with a wedge-shaped object, slightly knocking it out from different sides.
Another option - they took the drill with one hand with the chuck down, and with the other they applied light blows to the end with a hammer. If it did not help, they lubricated the landing site with a penetrating compound (kerosene or WD-40 grease), held it for several hours and again tried to knock down the cartridge.
This method can be used if the shaft bearing is installed inside the housing. For most drills in use today, this method is unacceptable, as it can damage the bearings or gearbox.
When choosing a new chuck, pay attention to the type of attachment, the bore diameter and the ability to work in impact mode, if your drill has this option
How to choose a new cartridge
The chuck for the screwdriver is chosen based on a number of aspects. When choosing a suitable part, you need to be guided by the following recommendations:
- if the bits have to be changed frequently, it is better to prefer quick-clamping or self-locking cylinders; otherwise, work will go slower;
- gear-crown design - the choice of those who strive for maximum chuck reliability; if the priority is one hundred percent fixing the bit, it is better to purchase a key cartridge;
- when choosing a part, it is necessary to take into account its characteristics; parameters are regulated by the relevant GOSTs; the larger the clamping cone, the larger the number with which it is marked;
- it is necessary to take into account the country of manufacture - the alphanumeric designations of foreign models differ from domestic ones.
If it is difficult to independently decide on the type of "clamp", it is better to seek the advice of a specialist.
The wrong choice is tantamount, at least, to the incorrect operation of the instrument.
In the worst case, it is possible not only to re-spend on a new cylinder, but also to replace the entire screwdriver.
Keyless Drill Chuck Feature
The standard keyless chuck has a simple design. Tightening and loosening will require the use of a special knurled or grooved metal sleeve. Quite often, a plastic sleeve with ribs is used for this purpose.
The main difference of such an element is the absence of a clamping key and the use of an outer shell that allows clamping the lips of the drill. Most often, the use of BZP is accompanied by the following problems and difficulties:
- insufficient quality performance of the drill clamp;
- lack of sufficient resistance to dust;
- breakage of the clamping mechanism.
How to remove and disassemble an electric drill chuck
Even small, minor repairs will require proper disassembly of the structure. Today, there are only two mechanisms for fastening to the working shaft, so the process of dismantling work can vary.
With the threaded method, the fastening must be disassembled in the following order:
- deepen the cams inside the body and dilute them as much as possible;
- unscrew the fixing screw located in the central bottom of the device. Fasteners with a left-hand thread must be twisted clockwise;
- using an open-end wrench put on the shaft, the device is unscrewed.
The most popular and commonly used in modern tooling is the taper connection. In addition to the exceptional strength of the tapered connection, this option, with the right approach, can be quite easily disconnected on its own. For this purpose, the body is first tapped off in a circle, after which the element is knocked off the shaft with a sharp and precise blow to the rear of the shaft.
After, how the cartridge will be removed, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of malfunction. It is possible to carry out repairs on your own in the absence of significant damage to the parts and jamming caused by metal chips that have got into the adjacent parts. As a rule, it is possible to restore operability with this type of breakdown by washing the elements in oil or kerosene using a soft medium-sized brush. After this cleaning method, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
Most often, owners of actively used tools are faced with a number of malfunctions caused by wear, as well as damage to threaded or toothed parts. Minor local damage of this type can be easily removed by grinding. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a file or a standard abrasive skin. In the most difficult cases of breakdowns, a complete replacement of the failed cartridge is most often required.