Safety rules when cutting metal with a grinder
Cutting metal workpieces requires compliance with safety rules. Even with protective devices and sophisticated design, the tool can cause accidents, including injury from chipped metal pieces, ignition from sparks, etc.
So, here are the basic rules.
Photo No. 11: individual protection means: glasses, headphones, gloves, helmet
- Carry out all work in personal protective equipment (PPE): tarpaulin gloves, respirator, goggles.
- Do not sand using the side of the wheel.
- Do not use bent or heavily deformed consumables.
- Make sure that the metal cutting blade does not interfere with electrical wires, fuels and lubricants and other foreign objects.
- Do not dive too deep as this can damage the wheel and instrument.
- Before starting up the equipment with the disc just mounted, test it at idle speed.
- Secure the workpiece with a vise. If you hold it in your hands, it is possible to injure the hand from the cutting tool.
- Wait until the machine has come to a complete stop before removing and replacing the disc.
Progress
At the moment of turning on the "grinder", it should be held with the application of a force sufficient to overcome the starting torque. The angle grinder, released from the hands at the moment of starting, can harm the operator's health and damage the finished surfaces. Keep the working "grinder" straight, avoiding sharp rotation of its body. Bring the rotating disc close to the metal piece slowly. Immerse without effort, allowing the unit's own weight to create the required coefficient of friction.
When the cut-off wheel is submerged in the material by 10–20%, you should pay attention to the smoothness of the sawing. If the angle grinder twitches and tends to pull forward, it may be worth changing the angle of inclination of its body or reducing the pressure of the disc on the metal
If the metal workpiece has internal stress, cut 90% and finish the process by hand. Otherwise, the release of metal stress at the time of sawing can lead to a sharp seizure of the blade and its destruction.
In the next video, you will find tests of cutting discs for a grinder and a comparison of popular brands.
Abrasive Cut-off Wheels for Aluminum - Abrasives: Powders, Bars, Wheels and Belts
The topic is very old, but since I searched and found, I will unsubscribe.
With a diameter of 125mm for aluminum, we managed to find (in terms of existence) the following discs:
1. Dronco Special CS60ALU 1.2mm
2. Wolfcraft 1669999 1.5mm
3. GermaFlex 1.6mm
4. Metabo 616752000 2.5mm
Wolfcraft could not be found on sale, so I took 1 pc of the remaining ones for the sample. The cut was made with a grinder, stationary fixed on the bed for angle grinders.
The small diameter (d16 f5mm) cuts the Dronkov circle best of all, the Hermaphlex one almost as well (minusculely longer). Dronko is very soft like cardboard. But at f30 the cut turns out to be uneven, tk. the circle bends back, and at the end a burr is obtained at the break - this diameter is best taken by the Hermaphlex one. The third metabolic circle turned out to be too thick, the cutting performance is mediocre, you have to press harder. Perhaps they need to cut at maximum speed, but I am interested in cutting of not very large diameters and at reduced speeds (for a minimum of noise, this is why a grinder with electronic speed control was taken for this in due time).
Also compared to a conventional meadow disc with a stainless steel hitachi patch.There is a little more noise from it, slight crushing, the cutting speed is about a third less (judging by the heating of the part, due to the greasing of the circle). The quality of the cut is slightly worse - matte grooves against mirrored ones in a slightly smaller number of specials. disks. The revs were tried from 3000 to 9500 rpm.
The conclusion is something like this: cut with an abrasive al. alloys are quite possible, and even not bad. And you can even use ordinary disks. With the price of those discs that I usually use (with a metal washer in the center made of stainless steel) equal to 39r, and the price of a Hermaphlex disc of 69r, in principle it is worth taking them. Better cut, quieter, faster. Dronkovsky for 100r no longer justifies itself, and the metabo for 120r even more so. If you turn a regular disk and an “aluminum” one in your hands, you can see that the aluminum is more ... porous or rather soft. I haven’t tried to break it, but it seems that with a wedge, a piece will sooner rip out than a circle will fly apart. But we have not forgotten about TB (two covers, a shield).
Something like this. Hope it helped someone.
Modified on March 5, 2015 by Amid89
How can you cut aluminum?
Depending on the thickness of the metal, aluminum can be cut with metal scissors, electric shears or a hacksaw for metal, or with a jigsaw or a grinder with a special circle for aluminum and copper, a guillotine or a router. Miter saws and plunge-cut saws are great. A circular will take a thin profile, but you need a diamond disc designed for metal, as well as protection from chips, since such work is not provided on this type of saw (so that neither the master nor the drive is damaged). As a rule, special discs for this metal are used for circular saws.
When cutting aluminum with a grinder, you should not cut deeply, since the softness of the metal leads to the circle in it simply getting stuck, hardening occurs on the teeth. You can even make a cut not immediately, but first walk several times along the outer side, without cutting through to the end. Cutting aluminum should be done slowly, avoiding distortions. Be sure to wear personal protective equipment, at least glasses and gloves. The process is quite noisy, of course, if a plasma cutter is not used. Long cuts are made under the ruler in a straight line, but smooth curves are most often made according to a template. It is quite difficult to make an even long cut with a hand tool.
If you use a hand saw, jigsaw, milling cutters and circular saws, then it is advised to drip machine oil, kerosene, alcohol into the cut site, or cool the metal in this place (you can even use compressed air), which allows the tool to go more freely, without the formation of a large "work hardening" ". For the same purpose, it is sometimes advised to rub the cutting line with ordinary laundry soap, old lard or paraffin.
Types of cutting discs for metal
The technical characteristics of cutting wheels (or otherwise discs) for working on metal are regulated by GOST R 57978-2017, which provides for two types of this tool: flat (ISO 41) and with a recessed center (ISO 42). The same GOST establishes size ranges and other standardized parameters for both types. Structurally, a metal cutting disc is a sandwich-type structure consisting of alternating layers of a reinforcing mesh and a cutting composite, into which a metal sleeve is pressed (see figure below).
Reinforcing meshes are usually made of fiberglass and, depending on the conditions of use of the tool, can have different thicknesses and mesh sizes. The cutting composite consists of an abrasive powder and a binder. For cutting metals, powders of various types of electrocorundum and silicon carbide are used as an abrasive, and bakelite resins are usually used as a binder (although the GOST also provides for the use of vulcanites).
In addition to reinforced abrasive wheels on resin bonds, there are carbide discs for cutting metal on stationary pendulum and miter saws.Such a tool is usually used in the procurement shops of metalworking enterprises; it has a highly specialized application and belongs to circular saws. Another type of cutting tool is diamond discs, but in accordance with GOST 32833-2014 they cannot be used for cutting metals. Sometimes saw blades used in woodworking on circular machines are also referred to as cutting blades. Outwardly, they are somewhat similar to cutting wheels for wood processing. But in fact, such saw blades have a different purpose, and GOST are classified as "circular saws".
Security measures
Before starting work, you need to think about how the cutting will be carried out (the position of the "grinder" in space in relation to the cutting site), determine the direction vector of the flow of sparks, which will accompany the immersion of the disc into the metal. Remove all flammable objects and substances from the spark line. If necessary, cover the finished surfaces exposed to sparks with protective equipment.
Inspect the power tool itself for water, dirt, sand, and the integrity of the power cord. Carry out a test run to check that the unit is running smoothly and that the cutting disc can rotate freely. Assess the object of the cut: it must be firmly fixed, not have deforming stress, and be away from electrical wires.
Eyes should be protected with special goggles that give a wide and clear view. Glasses with tinted lenses are not recommended. The safest face protection is a shield-mask made of transparent plexiglass. If the disc breaks during cutting, its fragments are scattered in the direction of the initial centrifugal force at a high speed. This mask will protect the front of the head from getting into it. The hearing organs also need protection. For this, construction headphones or silicone earplugs are used.
The equipment of the LBM operator must meet the following safety measures:
- robes made of durable and natural material;
- Moderately loose, but overly long sleeves are unacceptable;
- gloves that fit tightly on the hands, made of strong material that can hold the primary cut;
- closed shoes with composite toe inserts.
Security
The grinder is an electric cutting tool, when working with which you need special attention. So, before changing the cutting or grinding attachments, you must make sure that the equipment is disconnected from the mains.
If the plug is plugged in, there is always a risk of injury from accidentally pressing the start button.
When cutting and grinding soft materials such as aluminum, be aware of its toughness. To carry out work, do not neglect the rules for the operation of cutting wheels. So, an excessive width of the circle can cause overheating of the metal and, as a result, jamming of the discs or their slipping. This ultimately leads to injury.
It is also necessary to remember about the inner diameter of the circles for angle grinders. It must exactly match the diameter of the machine shaft. A larger diameter will cause an imbalance of the cutting attachment, its uneven movement. Operating in this manner is likely to cause the disc to split despite its reinforced coating, which also results in serious injury.
It is important to pay attention not only to the manufacturer's brand, but also to its authenticity. In the modern market, you can also find fakes. But they can be distinguished by the inscriptions, which are most likely to be done with cheap paint.
If such text is rubbed a little, then the paint will become cloudy or completely smeared. The quality of the sticker on the circle is also important. In cheap counterparts, it can be peeled off, unlike real branded products.
But they can be distinguished by their inscriptions, which are likely to be done with cheap paint. If such text is rubbed a little, then the paint will become cloudy or completely smeared
The quality of the sticker on the circle is also important. In cheap counterparts, it can be peeled off, unlike real branded products.
The following video clearly demonstrates the high quality of Cibo products.
Features of blades for cutting aluminum
Only a limited number of manufacturers produce special blades for cutting aluminum, the rest in the type of material usually indicate a broader purpose, for example, "for work on non-ferrous metals." In general, cutting aluminum with a grinder makes sense only for some one-time work. And for large volumes of aluminum blanks, cutting and cutting machines with special saw blades for aluminum are much better suited. Pictured below: Metabo aluminum work disc
Pay attention to the marking of the hardness class (O means "medium hard") and compare with the marking of the Luga disc
Grinding wheel selection
On the construction market, you can see a wide variety of special wheels for various types of grinding and polishing with an angle grinder. Such nozzles are distinguished primarily by the type of coating:
- from sandpaper;
- from a sponge;
- fabric;
- with felt.
In addition to the abrasive coating on the wheel, various pastes with abrasive inclusions are used for grinding metal surfaces. Their use depends on how smooth the surface is planned to be. In order to perform a rough cleaning of aluminum, craftsmen use coarse-grained emery nozzles. In this case, the structure of the grinding wheel should not be dense (with a small number of grains per unit volume of the attachment). Such work results in a rather rough surface that requires cleaner grinding and polishing.
For fine and accurate sanding, sponge wheels are suitable, which can be used in conjunction with fine-grained pastes. After them, you can polish using replaceable felt or fabric covers, which are fixed on a special attachment for the grinder. In this case, a paste with a minimum grain size is used. When choosing a nozzle, the manufacturer's brand is also important. Products, the quality of which should not be doubted, are mainly produced by well-known companies, such as:
- Bosch;
- Berner;
- Kronenflex;
- DeWalt.
Working with a grinder. How to cut aluminum with a grinder safely and quickly
Hello friends! In this small note I want to share how you can cut aluminum with a grinder, a conventional metal cutting wheel.
It would seem, what's wrong with that, take it and cut it! Yes, it was not there, especially when it comes to the need to cut a thick sheet of aluminum.
The fact is that aluminum is a soft metal and when cutting it with a grinder, the cut-off wheel simply gets stuck in a piece of aluminum.
Why is it dangerous to cut aluminum with a grinder
Cutting aluminum is not only difficult, but also unsafe! Especially when using a high power grinder. Due to the viscosity of aluminum, the disc will get stuck, and the tool will try to pull out of your hands.
And this will not happen immediately, but only when the cut reaches a certain depth. And this may come as a surprise to an inexperienced tool user. And in general, with a disc stuck in the metal, cutting will not be easy.
A little story about how I had to cut an aluminum tank. And what came of it
One friend of mine, once they brought a job, it was necessary to cut an aluminum tank with a grinder. "It's a trifling thing" - he thought, to saw the aluminum, there is nothing easier!
But his joy quickly vanished when he got down to business.
The disc was constantly getting stuck, bogged down in this metal. The Bulgarian tried to get out of hand. Sawing was one torment, business went very slowly. Various abusive thoughts did not leave my head. )))
So what to do? Got to work, you need to do it! Several hours of hard work passed in this way, and an old man who was passing by came to the rescue.
Seeing the torment, he began to try to give advice, but advice is sometimes difficult to accept, especially when the nerves are already at the limit. After all, the work, which seemed simple at first, was already pretty exhausting. Therefore, the first reaction to advice is a desire to send to hell.
Nevertheless, the advice was given and in the end, as a friend said, he followed it. Imagine his surprise when after that things went much more fun.
And the advice was as follows: The place of the cut needs to be lubricated. For example, used car oil will do just fine for this purpose. The disc did not get stuck, the aluminum was cut with a bang.
Varieties and their sizes
Cut-off wheels have a smaller profile section - thickness than grinding wheels. The work uses their end part, which, in contact with the metal, literally frays it. This type of disc has two configurations that differ in thickness: 1.5 and 2 mm. The central mounting hole is the same in all types of discs: it corresponds to the diameter of the grinder's mounting shaft. There is a single standard for this value on the Eurasian continent. All general purpose angle grinders have the same mounting shaft diameter on which the replacement wheel is fitted.
The uniform standard diameters are listed below:
- 115 mm;
- 125 mm;
- 150 mm;
- 230 mm.
There are specialized circles designed for sawing products from "problem" metals: soft, viscous, high-carbon. To distinguish them among other varieties, manufacturers use marking codes. With the help of such notation, you can determine which circle is better to use:
- for working with steel - steel;
- for cutting stainless steel - inox;
- cutting cast iron products - castiron;
- sawing soft metals - aluminum.
What disc to cut metal with a grinder
For working with metal workpieces, cut-off wheels of small thickness (1–1.2 mm) are suitable. They allow you to make even cuts without significant effort. For curly processing of thin rolled products, circles are used for a grinder for metal of the smallest diameter.
Photo No. 5: circles for a grinder for metal (125 mm)
Further, when choosing a grinder for cutting sheet metal, they focus on the material that needs to be processed. Cast iron, steel, aluminum and brass require different discs. You will learn information about the purpose of a specific product from the marking on the label.
For stainless steel. Unlike other consumables, stainless steel discs do not damage the protective film on the metal, which protects the material from corrosion.
Photo No. 6: Cutting wheel for a grinder on stainless steel
For non-ferrous metals. There are separate varieties for cutting cast iron, aluminum, copper, brass. Anti-brining additives are added to the composition of wheels that work with soft materials. Cast iron products, on the other hand, have hard diamond inclusions.
Photo No. 7: Cutting wheel for a grinder for aluminum
- For thin profiles and pipes. Cutting sheet metal with a grinder should be using circles that are suitable in diameter. Profiled sheets and sheet metal are processed with products with small teeth. Corners and fittings - with thicker discs.
- Roughing. Used for deburring and welding seams. The thickness of the circles is 5–10 mm. Processing is carried out with the machine tilted at an angle of 30-40 degrees to the surface.
Photo # 8: Grinding wheel for grinder
Brush. Products made of rigid wire effectively remove rust when the grinder turns in different directions.
Photo No. 9: Brush wheel for metal
Petal and abrasive. The former are used for the final sanding of smooth surfaces. The second is to remove large enough protrusions and outgrowths. High-quality grinding involves the alternation of two types of circles.
Photo number 10: flap circle for grinder
What is it?
Cutting discs for "grinder" - hard circles of dark gray color, rough to the touch, with a mounting hole in the center, framed by a galvanized steel ring. They differ in material of manufacture, size, configuration and other characteristics determined by the type of work that must be performed using angle grinders. In construction practice, circles for metal are widely used.
The cutting effect is created by high-strength artificial materials, crushed into small chips. Electrocorundum is used - superhard, refractory, chemically resistant compounds based on aluminum oxide.
In accordance with the purpose of the circle, electrocorundum can be used on the following bases:
- magnesium-silicon;
- lame titanium;
- mono-corundum;
- zirconium;
- titanic;
- chromium.
Cutting discs angle grinder for metal - a consumable that is not supplied by the manufacturer along with the "grinder". The tool manufacturer is not responsible for the quality and durability of consumables.
How to use?
Operation of the "grinder" cut-off wheel begins with the observance of the rules of installation and removal.
Installation
Check the position of the lower locknut on which the disc rests. Its slot must match the slot of the grinder shaft. Slide the circle onto the shaft. The side containing the marking data must be visible.
Screw on the top lock nut. Holding it with your hand, try to turn the disc in the direction of its movement. In the process of cutting metal, the difference in the directions of rotation of the disc and the nut creates a self-tightening effect. When installing, it is not necessary to tighten the upper nut with a wrench.
Picking up
Wait until the rotation stops completely. Disconnect the grinder from the mains. Insert the “horns” of the special key into the holes of the upper locknut and squeeze the lock button.
Rotate the key counterclockwise. When the nut is pulled out of place (due to the initial force), it can be unscrewed by hand. Any angle grinder is equipped with a handle connector. Do not work with the handle removed.