The Japanese art of growing bonsai

Bonsai is the art of growing miniature trees. This art came to Japan from China for over a thousand years, but it was in Japan that the art of growing bonsai reached its perfection and perfection. And today bonsai is associated with the land of the rising sun. The word bonsai consists of two hieroglyphs and literally means a bowl and a tree, a tree grown in a bowl.

Bonsai is created for admiration, contemplation and aesthetic effect. In the early seventeenth century, many wealthy Edo (now Tokyo) families grew plants in small containers, but it was not until the eighteenth century that the cultivation of miniature trees became an art form. They began to attach great importance to the appearance of a miniature tree and to shape it in accordance with certain rules, so styles appeared that later became classic.

Previously, only rich families could afford to grow bonsai; a lot of time was spent on this entertaining and laborious occupation. Then gradually the hobby of bonsai passed to the samurai families, and then it became a mass hobby.

Mention of bonsai is found in the early stages of Japanese history, for example, in the 14th century, a play was written about a poor exiled samurai who lived far in the mountains, and to whom a tired and frozen traveler knocked on the door in bad weather. The samurai did not have firewood to warm the chilled traveler and used his three bonsai as firewood. The shogun turned out to be a tired traveler, who later reinstated the rights of a samurai and gave him the lands of ume (plum), matzah (pine) and sakura (cherry), in the number and name of burned bonsai. In the following years, artists have repeatedly created engravings based on this popular drama.

In the 17th century, stories emerged that the Tokugawa shogun Iemitsu devoted so much time to growing bonsai that his advisor was forced to remove these trees as far as possible, but this did not stop the shogun and he continued to create the forms of miniature trees.

In the 18th century, a large number of people were already interested in bonsai and annual exhibitions of miniature trees began to be held in Kyoto, new types of bonsai were delivered to each such exhibition.In 1829, the first book was published in which the technique of growing miniature trees - bonsai - is considered an art.

Emperor Meiji took a great interest in the art of bonsai and tried to stir up interest in bonsai in the people around him. Those officials who did not show the proper interest in bonsai fell out of favor. So the art of bonsai, whether the ministers wanted it or not, became an integral part of their life and a new tradition in Japan. The Meiji Government Palace, both inside and outside, was lined with miniature trees.

Growing dwarf trees is difficult and time consuming. Bonsai are real trees taken from nature and, using certain methods, turned into small copies of their larger counterparts.

For bonsai, different types of trees are used; evergreen conifers, such as pine, juniper, cypress, fir, spruce, are very popular. Along with the classic bonsai trees are used: maple (momiji), cherry (sakura), plum, apricot, beech, acacia, azalea and many other types of trees and shrubs.

There are several styles of bonsai:

formal straight style (chyokkan), the widest trunk at the base, which tapers towards the top of the tree

informal straight (moyogi) - the branches and trunk may be slightly curved, but the top of the tree is always directly perpendicular to the base of the trunk and the ground

Double trunk (sokan), this style is a composition of two trunks with one common crown

Cascade style (kengai) - imitates trees that naturally grow on mountain slopes or on the banks of a river above the water. In this case, the top of the tree sinks much lower than the ground in which the tree is placed. Similar to the previous style - the half-cascade style (khan-kengai), the top of the tree remains at the level of the soil, in which the tree itself is located

Combined root (netsunagari) - in this style, part of the trunk is covered with earth and the branches of one tree look like separate trees.

There are many more interesting bonsai styles that will be discussed later.

Bonsai is not a houseplant, so it is preferable that they grow naturally, that is, in the fresh air. In winter, special care is required for the trees and, accordingly, the tree can grow on the street if this is its native climate, if necessary, the tree is placed in an additional container or the roots are covered up to the first branches. Bonsai loves the sun and light, under such conditions it can adapt to indoor conditions.

Literary style (bungings) - characterized by a bare, usually distorted trunk and a minimum amount of foliage in the upper part of the tree.

The sizes of bonsai can be from tiny - up to 2.5 centimeters to huge (by the standards of bonsai) - more than a meter.

In bonsai, everything is important, not only the shape, but also the pots, which must be in harmony with the overall composition, stones that imitate mountains and rocks. At the same time, unlike the Chinese style, the Japanese believe that ceramic bonsai pots should not be bright and prefer earthy or dark colors.

Chinese Garden Bonsai Exhibition (

Sydney

)

Bonsai (Japanese 盆栽 - lit. "grown in a tray") - the art of growing an exact copy of a real (sometimes dwarf) tree in miniature. Plant growth is regulated by a flat root system.

Related art forms are arbosculpture, ikebana, aquarium design, and honnonbo. There is a similar art called "Penjing" in China. Branches of the art of bonsai: kokedama, kusamono (jap. 草 物), wabikusa (jap. 侘 び 草).

History

The bonsai style originated in China and dates back to the Tang Dynasty (VIII-X centuries). Found among the wall paintings penjai - a plant taken from nature and transplanted into a pot.

The word "bonsai" comes from the Chinese word "pencai" (the Chinese reading of the same characters) and means "grown in a tray."

One of the legends says that a certain emperor ordered to create a miniature empire with all the trees, cities, rivers and mountains. For this purpose, miniature trees were created.

It is believed that art was brought to Japan in the 6th century by Buddhist monks. The cultivated plants were used to decorate the niche of the house, the maximum height of the trees was therefore about half a meter. After some time, in connection with the development of the technique of admiring bonsai, they begin to use it during the tea ceremony. At this time, art is called hachi-no-ki - "a tree in a pot." Since the 18th century, the Japanese have finally turned this technique into art, and many styles have emerged. In the Tokugawa era, park design received a new impetus: growing azaleas and maples became a pastime for the wealthy.

This art was also developed by Buddhists, who believed that a person who grows bonsai is equated with God, because in their vision the world looks like a Buddha's garden, where he is a gardener.

Nowadays, ordinary trees are used for bonsai, they become small thanks to constant pruning and various other methods. At the same time, the ratio of the size of the root system, limited by the volume of the bowl, and the ground part of the bonsai corresponds to the proportions of an adult tree in nature.

Copper wire began to be used only after World War II, before that strings were used.

The first bonsai exhibition took place in Tokyo in 1914.

By the 21st century, more than 1200 books have been written about bonsai in 26 languages ​​of the world.

Styles

Traditional

	Formal straight style (Japanese 直 幹 Chokkan) Straight trunk that gets thicker closer to the roots.
	Informal straight style (Japanese 模 様 木 Moyogi) The branches or trunk may be slightly curved, but the top of the trunk is always in a straight line perpendicular to the ground.
	Twin barrel (Japanese 双 幹 Sokan) A composition of two trunks, which can be different in size and form one crown.
	Oblique style (Japanese 斜 幹 Shakan) Straight trunk growing at an angle to the ground.
	Cascade (Japanese 懸崖 Kengai) Simulates the growth of trees near water or in the mountains. In a full cascade, the top of the tree grows outside the pot boundary and sinks well below the soil in the pot.
	Semi-cascading style (Japanese 半 懸崖 Khan Kengai) The top of the tree remains at the level of the pot soil.
	(Japanese 根 連 な り Netsunagari) The type of trees in which part of the trunk is flooded or covered with earth is imitated. The branches of such a plant grow, resembling individual trees.
	Literary style (Japanese 文人 木 Bundzings) Straight trunk with the minimum number of branches.
	Root on stone (Japanese 石 上 樹 Sekijouju) The trunk is located on a stone protruding above the surface of the earth, which is braided by roots.
	Growing-on-stone (Japanese 石 付 Ishitsuki) The roots of the tree grow in the crevices of the stone. This style is used to illustrate the endurance of the tree (due to limited root space).
	Broom style (Japanese 箒 立 ち Hokidachi) The trunk is straight, the branches are scattered around it by about ⅓ of the tree's height, forming a ball.
	Group style (Japanese 寄 せ 植 え Yose Ue) The bowl contains a group of trees, usually odd (the mental characteristics of the Japanese), but never equal to four (the word "four" in Japanese is consonant with the word "death"). Often trees of the same species are in the pot. The beauty of the composition lies in the combination of the heights and ages of these trees.
	Carnivorous style (Japanese 筏 吹 き Ikadabuki) A tree that has fallen into a swamp is imitated. It has the shape of a raft and is formed due to a trunk lying on the ground, from which trees of various lengths depart.

Special

Common roots (Japanese 根 連 Natsuranari)	Several trunks from one root, the root itself forms bends.
A tree in the wind (Japanese な り Fukinagashi)	It resembles an oblique shape. The curving branches and trunk give the impression that the tree is bent under the onslaught of the wind.
Forest shape (Japanese 寄 せ 植 え Yose-ue)	A miniature forest of an odd number of trees is scattered on a large flat bowl.
On the rock (Japanese 石 付 Ishitsuki)	A rock-like stone is used as a rock. The tree is located mainly on the rock.
Miniature landscape (NS. Sakei)	A miniature landscape depicting various corners of nature.

Size classification

tiny	Mame	Kesi-tsubu	up to 2.5
tiny	Mame	Sieve	2,5—7,5
tiny	Mame	Gafu	13—20
small	Syokhin	Komono	before 18
small	Syokhin	Meabi	15—25
average	Kifu	Katade-mochi	up to 40
large	Tyu / tyukhin	Katade-mochi	40—60
large	Tyu / tyukhin	Omono	up to 120
huge	Dai / daiza	Bonju	more than a meter

Agrotechnics

Location

In most cases, bonsai are not indoor plants and must be placed outdoors, although they can sometimes be taken indoors for use as interior decoration.

Some trees require special protection in winter, and the intensity of the techniques used in cold weather depends primarily on how adapted the tree is to the climate. If a plant has a hibernation period, then in no case should it be interrupted, especially in deciduous plants. To protect the plant from the cold outside, it can be placed in an additional container or the soil in the pot can be covered with a layer of humus that reaches the first branch.

Contrary to popular belief, bonsai can stand inside a home if it gets enough light. Maple or pine can grow both outdoors and indoors, but they have a sleeping period. Many trees need to be grown in the room first and then transferred to the garden. Japanese black pine and some other species, as outdoor trees, can survive in a room, although they are best placed in a cold room or even in a special refrigerator. To make sure that the tree is in the correct position, you need to monitor the lighting and conditions during the cold season. This can often be achieved by simply opening a window, but not in very cold areas. In fact, there are no completely "external" trees. All cold-resistant trees, after placing them in warmth, acclimatize after a while.

Sources of material

Suitable plants

A variety of plants with small leaves and dense branches are suitable for growing in the form of bonsai.

The following plants work well for growing in bonsai style:

Ready bonsai

Wild trees

Bonsai is fairly easy to make from native tree species. But do not forget about their wintering period. When choosing a plant, the following questions should be answered:

1. What soil does the tree grow on?
2. How much light does it need?
3. Is the location of the tree light or shaded?
4. Which places does it prefer - dry or wet?

Cuttings

Cutting is one of the methods of vegetative propagation of plants.

The tree is propagated mainly by stem or root cuttings. Cuttings of many plants are difficult to take root, therefore it is necessary to maintain optimal conditions: high air humidity in combination with low soil moisture.

The best age of the mother plant (from which the green cuttings are cut) is considered to be from five to ten years, and difficult to root even earlier: from two to three summer plants.

For each species of woody plants, it is important to establish the most favorable propagation period for cuttings. For example, in the middle zone of the European part of Russia, the period from late May to early July is optimal for rooting of deciduous green cuttings, and conifers can be cut either in spring, before the buds swell, or in summer, when active growth ends.

Shoots are cut only those that are still green and flexible enough, preferring cuts in the middle part of the shoot, discarding the too soft upper part and too lignified lower part.

Cutting shoots into cuttings is best done early in the morning or on a cloudy day (to reduce evaporation from cuttings); large leaf blades are cut in half and the cut shoots are placed with the lower ends in a vessel with water.

For successful root formation, both the length and thickness of the cutting are important. The length is determined by the size of internodes (with 3-4 narrow internodes, and long with two). Usually the length of green cuttings ranges from 3 to 12 centimeters, and on average 8-10 centimeters. Holding the cutting blank over the canopy, it is cut with a sharp knife: the upper cut, to reduce the evaporating surface, is made straight - perpendicular to the longitudinal region; the lower leaves are removed; the lower cut is made oblique. Before planting, the workpiece is placed in a container with water and covered with a damp cloth. The bottom cut should be updated before planting.

Sowing with seeds

Growing a bonsai from seed is the longest-lasting way to form a bonsai. It takes 12-15 years to get a bonsai-like plant. This method should be used when growing such types of trees in which the formation occurs from the first days of their life, such as elm. When growing bonsai from conifers, it becomes possible to form stems without fear of damaging them.

Air layering

Soil, drainage, pot

Some amateurs use only inorganic soils, others - ordinary, others - abundantly fertilize the soil with reagents, and all these techniques have a right to exist. All soils for bonsai should be light and permeable to water, most often they take a mixture based on gravel, ceramic shards, bark, coarse sand, volcanic clay-pumice soil or coke.

Each pot should have drainage holes so that excess water can seep into the pan. Each hole should be covered with a ceramic shard or piece of plastic to prevent soil from spilling out. In bonsai, glazed (shiny) and unglazed, multi-colored or smooth pots are used. For more formal compositions, acute-angled straight containers are chosen; for evergreen trees - unglazed. It is important that the color of the pot matches the color of the plant. The pottery industry is developed all over the world, but the masters of ancient China and Japan, whose pots are collected by collectors, are especially distinguished in this art. Although collectors also appreciate the pots of European craftsmen, such as Byron Albright and Gordon Duffet.

Transplantation and formation of the root system

In addition to the formation of the trunk and crown, it is necessary to form a root system.

A transplant is carried out every two years in the spring (young more often, to provoke the growth of new roots), before the start of sap flow. Also, they are engaged in transplanting when the roots rot, removing the roots.

Before the procedure, the tree is dried - not watered for a day or two. If necessary, bite through the fixing wire under the bottom and above the soil. The bonsai is removed by the base of the trunk, if necessary, you can push an earthen ball through the drainage holes and walk along the perimeter with a metal spatula. Then you need to rinse the container with boiling water.

After extraction, you can inspect:

• The ground around the perimeter and below has dried up and crumbles by itself - the roots have not completely filled the container;
• The root ball is like a loofah with the shape of a container - you need to spread the roots.

The roots are straightened with a wooden stick, piercing the lump from top to bottom, 1-3 cm from the trunk and advancing to the edge. Long roots are cut. If the bonsai is finished, areas for growth are carved out. Usually up to a third of the volume is removed.

If you need fixation (cascade and inclined style), you can use the classic option, when fixation is carried out for the drainage holes and the trunk. The abundance of compacted substrate also fixes the plant securely.

Formation

There are various methods to reduce the size of the tree. Seasonal pruning is often the key to success, but if done ineptly, it can ruin the tree.Most bonsai tree species can be deformed with copper or aluminum wire. Some trees do not lend themselves to such a formation, their appearance is changed mainly with the help of pruning.

To create the appearance of an old tree, dead trees, "jin" and "shari" are sometimes used. They are obtained by cutting off a branch from the trunk of a living tree and peeling off the bark from the entire trunk or partially (shari), creating the appearance of natural scars on the tree. These methods must be used with great care, because such actions can lead to tree contamination. Also, you cannot rip off a whole ring of bark from the trunk, otherwise sap flow in the tree will be disrupted.

Pruning

Pruning is a necessary way to form a bonsai. With its help, several tasks are solved: they reduce the size of the plant, form the location of skeletal branches, and stimulate the growth of new shoots. Pruning is a huge strain on the plant, so it should be done on healthy specimens that have not been pruned recently.

Plants inevitably overgrow and their shape must be maintained, otherwise, after prolonged neglect, the bonsai will run wild and no longer look like a tree. For this, a radical pruning is carried out, thanks to which the final shape of the plant is created.

In order not to be mistaken with pruning a branch, there is a simple method: the required branch is closed by hand and then the result is carefully studied, if it satisfies the desires and goals, then the branch can be safely deleted.

The main growth force of the tree is directed to the top, in order to achieve uniform growth, it is necessary to pinch off new shoots at the top, to stop growth in this place and transfer growth points to other places.

The size of the leaves should correspond to the size of the tree, for example, if the tree itself is twenty cm high and the leaves are ten. This disproportion does not look harmonious. If it is possible to prune the leaves (not all deciduous leaves tolerate the procedure), then this should be done from the end of June to the beginning of July, when the first leaves have already appeared and they can be cut off. After about four weeks, smaller and more numerous shoots will grow in place of the old ones. In trees where the leaves are located on a long petiole, it is necessary to cut off only the leaf leaving the petiole. After the procedure, the tree should be moved to a shaded area until shoots appear.

Cutting points are a potential hazard to the health of the tree, fungus, bacteria or insect pests can settle on the cut. To cover wounds, use a liquid varnish-balm. Small branches and young shoots can be cut all year round.

Types of trimming

• Formative pruning - cutting of large skeletal branches, truncation of the trunk, forming the "base" of the tree;
• Pruning branches reduces their length and stimulates the formation of new growth points, stimulates branching;
• Cutting the shoots forms the outline of the crown of the plant;
• Pinching (pinching) serves to limit the growth of the shoot;
• Leaf pruning (defoliation) serves to renew the crown, while the number of leaves increases and their size decreases;
• Root pruning is essential for the renewal and formation of the root system.

Basic principles

• One of the branches located opposite each other is cut off;
• Crossed branches are removed;
• Weak and thin branches coming out of the trunk are removed.

Topping

This is a tree development technique designed to bifurcate the outer layer.

When developing bonsai branches, it is necessary to allow the main structure to grow, not pinch, and then, at the end of winter, prune.

All new shoots that have grown in the right direction during the season must be pruned (this will give development to new branches), then the branches are given one more season to fix. The procedure should be repeated for several seasons in a row.

The pinching itself consists of the following, the growing tip of the branch is simply removed with scissors, fingers or other kind of removing tools.

Dressing

To change the shape and direction of the branches, dressing is used - the process of forming a tree using a frame made of ligature - an anti-corrosion wire wound on a branch. To create bends and the effect of old age, a load can also be suspended from the branches. In difficult cases, or when forming a composition from several trees, staples are used. To increase the bend between the trunk and the branch, a twine is pulled between it and the container. By guiding the branch down, the wire is applied below the branch and vice versa.

The dressing is carried out from the end of winter to the beginning of spring (during pruning), and is removed when a new position is fixed, depending on the type of tree: 4-6 months for deciduous; 8-10 months for conifers; 3 months for fruit.

The fixation should be tight, but not allowing the wood to crack. The ligation of the branch is carried out to the very top. After wrapping with a ligature, the branch is bent, giving the desired direction. When removing, the wire is cut with wire cutters, and not unwound, in order not to damage or break off the branches.

To avoid damage to the bark, do not tie trees with thick bark; on trees with smooth bark, the wire should be constantly checked for penetration. With the beginning of sap flow, the branches quickly thicken and the wire must be constantly weakened. In addition, too frequent a step of the spiral, as well as too rare, will have disastrous consequences. When bending, the wire should not overlap on itself, to avoid this, sometimes, it is wound gradually, during the bending process.

The thickness of the wire should be approximately equal to 1/3 of the thickness of the branch itself, for example, with a thickness of 1 centimeter, a wire of 3 millimeters is needed. Instead of one thick wire, you can use a pair of thinner wires.

Barrel thickness

To give a plant the proportions of an adult tree, a sufficient thickness of the trunk is necessary, obtaining a thick trunk is one of the most common tasks when creating a bonsai. The thickness of the bonsai trunk should be at least 1/6 of the height with thinning towards the top.

There are the following methods:

• Splicing of several plants, while sections of the bark can be removed and the trunks are woven into a plait or pigtail. This applies especially to flexible plants with thick bark, such as ficuses;
• Intensive agricultural technology;
• Grafting new branches on an adult plant;
• Trim the trunk step by step to create an informal upright style;

There is a procedure:

1. Let the tree grow to normal size. Until the tree reaches 2/3 of the desired height.
2. The trunk is cut off at the place of the first bend (1/3 of the current height). The cut is made at a 45 ° angle so that the bottom of the cut is on the outside of the current bend. Ideally, if there is already a branch on top of the cut. It is assumed that the front side of the future tree has already been selected.
3. The emerging new growth leader forms branches again and is further grown for several years. While this leader grows, the main trunk thickens at the same time. Pruning during this period can only be performed in order to maintain leadership.
4. Repeat iteration until you achieve the desired thickness. Repeat all iterations keeping the 1/3 rule.

When the trunk has become the required thickness, it is worth starting to grow branches.

Leader pruning should be done before the leader blooms, due to the accumulation of maximum energy in the roots, which will be directed to the development of the kidneys. But even after the leaves have bloomed, pruning makes sense. So dormant buds can give new tops, or "final branches" will grow - those that remain at the very end and will not change or cut off. In this case, the growth will be more accurate.

Dead wood

Removing the bark (sharimiki)

This is a technique for artificial aging of wood.Removing bark from branches and trunk with a knife or nippers. Those branches or trunks that need to be left alive cannot be removed all the bark. In order to master this technique, the best way is to familiarize yourself with cases from real trees in nature. Dead branches and trunks are processed in a slightly different way: all the bark is removed and bare wood is processed.

Among the tools for work should be:

• a set of knives for wood carving;
• bark removal pliers;
• concave cutters;
• sandpaper;
• special bleaching agent.

Cleavage (sabamiki)

This is a technique of artificial aging of wood, when the trunk is split. Outwardly, a bonsai looks like it was struck by lightning. This effect is achieved by splitting the trunk with nippers and wedges. Thanks to this, the tree itself becomes more powerful and stronger. The plant may die in the process.

Suitable specimens found in nature can reach a height of up to two meters. To begin with, they should be shortened to 70-80 centimeters, then the upper part is given a conical shape to make it look natural.

Formation errors

There are the following mistakes when forming bonsai:

- No top, - Branches resembling wheel spokes, - A branch forming a "fork" - Straight growing branch, - Branches like a stump, - The branches are located at the same level, - A branch growing upwards, - A short branch between large branches, - Parallel branches, - A branch growing in the wrong direction, - A branch crossing the trunk, - The branch forming the "knee", - Randomly growing branches, - A thickened branch, - Crossing branches, - Rounded branch, - Branch growing down, - U-shaped branch

Top dressing

The tree, as a rule, is fed once a week with any common garden fertilizer: urea, sapropel, etc. And once every two weeks with an algae-based fertilizer.

Top dressing has a double effect: nutrition and strengthening of the plant. Fertilizers renew nutrients in the soil that used up the tree for its growth. Fertilizer can be powder, granular or liquid. Fertilizer in the form of granules or balls can be held in one place using a small plastic basket, which is turned upside down and dug into the soil. Liquid mineral fertilizer can be diluted in water for irrigation and fed with this solution to bonsai when it is necessary to stimulate its growth.

Basic principles

• A low nitrogen fertilizer is used early in the growth period to strengthen and develop the leaves. For pines, this fertilizer is better than others, since it does not accelerate plant growth;
• A fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is used when the leaves are stronger and the first wave of growth has passed;
• A balanced fertilizer is applied from late spring to early summer and from late summer to autumn, when deciduous trees will shed their leaves. Evergreens should stop feeding before the onset of cold weather.

Fertilizer use

The fertilization period lasts from early spring to late autumn, with a break in July - August.

• Do not feed plants in winter;
• Do not feed sick and weakened trees;
• Do not feed newly transplanted bonsai.

Graft

Watering

Due to the limited size of the plant pot, caring for bonsai can be quite challenging. Deep containers often prevent the root system from developing properly, and watering such a plant becomes hard work. Various irrigation techniques include either direct irrigation from a watering kettle or can, or submerging the bonsai container in a large container filled with water. Some plant species can tolerate dry spells, while others require almost constant watering. If the soil is left dry or watered too often, its root system can die.The sun and wind can quickly dry out the soil, so outside plants should be checked and watered daily as needed. The soil should not become dry at all, even for a short time. Some of the plants used in bonsai do not show a lack of water in the soil in any way, remaining green, even when their root system has already completely died.

If you water a deep bowl as the top layer dries, then the root system will rot. But it is better to use a granular substrate, which is almost impossible to flood.

It is better to use rainwater for watering. But if there is only tap water, it is better to brew it for two days for the bleach to settle. It is best not to use cold water, like boiling water.

In the spring, you just need to increase the winter dose of watering. In summer it is necessary to water more often due to the abundance of sun and dry climate. In autumn, the dose is reduced again, it is important not to let the soil dry out. In winter, the tree needs as little water as possible. The substrate should not dry out, but it should be watered as little as possible.

Air humidity

To maintain the required moisture level, the plants are sprayed several times a day, while dust particles are washed off the leaves.

Often, to simulate grass, the surface of the soil is covered with moss, which requires daily spraying and high humidity.

Notes (edit)

1. ↑ Bonsai history. Retrieved December 26, 2013.
2. ^ Perkins 2013, p. 104.
3. ↑ Olivová 2009, p. 85.
4. ↑ Oxford 2010, p. 233.
5. ↑ Francisco Javier Alonso de la Paz. The origin of the bonsai style // Bonsai. Large Atlas = GRAN ATLAS DEL BONSAI / I. A. Kirsanova. - M .: BMM AO, 2001. - P. 6. - 192 p. - 5000 copies. - ISBN 5-88353-101-6.
6. ↑ Gorbacheva G.N., Zhitkov V.S., Mamedova E.T. Bonsai. - M .: ZAO "Fiton +", 2000. - 160 p. - (Living world around us). - ISBN 5-93457-011-0.
7. ↑ Bonsai's story. Retrieved December 26, 2013.
8. ↑ Traditional Bonsai Styles. Retrieved September 24, 2013.
9. ↑ Special styles of bonsai. Retrieved September 25, 2013.
10. ↑ Note: some sources indicate a different division.
11. ↑ Kohlhepp, 2000, p. nine.
12. ↑ Encyclopedia of Indoor Floriculture.
13. ↑ Kohlhepp, 2000, p. 9-10.
14. ↑ Cutting of trees and shrubs. Retrieved January 18, 2014.
15. ↑ Kohlhepp, 2000, p. 42-43.
16. ↑ Plant preparation for transplantation.
17. ↑ Transfer
18. ↑ Bonsai formation.
19. ↑ Pinching elms. Retrieved December 28, 2013.
20. ↑ Wire overlay. Retrieved December 28, 2013.
21. ↑ Growing thick stems.
22. ↑ Andrey Darusenkov. Bonsai - Growing Thick Trunks? (Russian). ... Anatoly Annenkov, Alexander Vinyar. Archived February 16, 2012.
23. ↑ Errors in the formation of bonsai (according to John Naka). Retrieved January 8, 2014.
24. ↑ Craig Cassins Bonsai School.
25. ↑ Watering for beginners. Retrieved December 30, 2013.

Literature

• Wolfgang Kohlhepp. Bonsai from trees of European forests = Schöne Bonsais aus heimischen Gehölzen / Per. with him. V. Chekmareva. - M .: Christina, 2000 .-- 114 p. - ISBN 5-93739-017-2.
• Perkins D. Encyclopedia of China: History and Culture. - Taylor & Francis, 2013 .-- ISBN 9781135935627.
• Olivová L.B., Børdahl V., Nordic Institute of Asian Studies. Lifestyle and Entertainment in Yangzhou. - NIAS Press, 2009. - (NIAS studies in Asian topics). - ISBN 9788776940355.
• Cresswell J. Oxford Dictionary of Word Origins. - OUP Oxford, 2010. - (Opr Series). - ISBN 9780199547937.

Links

• Bonsai (Japan Today No. 9-10, 2005).

For some, a houseplant is a blooming violet or ficus with dark shiny leaves. And someone wants to grow a real forest in a small handful of land.

Many indoor plant lovers have heard the mysterious word "bonsai". But what is bonsai and how to form a miniature miracle, they simply do not understand. Meanwhile, it is quite possible to understand this.

Bonsai history

The fashion for miniature trees spread throughout the world from Japan. But the Japanese are not the founders of a new art form. The idea for bonsai came to them from China. But it was the Japanese who brought it to perfection.

The first mention of the cultivation of miniature trees fell into the hands of historians in 1972. In the mausoleum of Prince Zang Hui, images were found detailing the technology of growing small trees. Judging by how carefully the drawings were preserved for posterity, the technique was attributed to especially valuable knowledge. The drawings date back to the reign of the Chinese Tang dynasty, which corresponds to 600 BC. NS.

The Chinese called the unusual hobby "penny". The Japanese read the Chinese character in their own way, and the word "bonsai" came out, meaning "grown in a tray."

By the way, archaeologists claim that even the ancient Egyptians knew what bonsai was. They grew small plants in special vessels, but they called them differently.Unfortunately, the Egyptian version of the name has not survived.

What's the point of this

The Japanese perfected the art of growing dwarf plants. Each tree requires many years of work, attention and patience from the master. This is the only way to get a green masterpiece that will live longer than its creator. A wonderful plant will go to grateful students who understand well what bonsai is and how much effort the master has put into this beauty.

Bonsai art is a specific philosophy that allows you to embrace life and enjoy the beauty of its flow. Each tree in the hands of the master goes through three stages, like all living things on the planet. First, it lives through youth, shining with freshness and pressure, then it enters maturity, reaching the perfection of forms and beauty, and the last stage is old age, which embodies all the wisdom of the world. And, in addition, bonsai is a symbol of the continuity of generations, because the youngest in the family needs to learn from the experience and be able to preserve what the elders have created.

What trees can be grown

Most often, evergreen species are used for growing in containers. It can be Japanese cypress, Chinese juniper, cryptomeria, five-leafed, black or red Japanese pine. Bonsai from these tree species look very impressive, but some choose to grow deciduous trees, finding a special charm in the changing seasons. In this case, Japanese plum, apple trees of various varieties, cherries, some varieties of maples, rhododendron, wild azalea, various varieties of pears, persimmons, wild grapes, willow and others are suitable.

Bonsai pine looks very beautiful and unusual, as can be seen in the photo below, so these miniature coniferous trees can most often be found.

Bonsai Styles: Chokkan and Moyogi

Even the most experienced craftsman will never get two exactly the same plants. But all compositions are usually clearly divided into styles. It was the Japanese who introduced this tradition into the art of bonsai. They gave a designation to a number of signs by which trees are divided into styles. There are more than 30 of them, but we will consider the most common.

If you see a bonsai plant with a straight trunk extending towards the base, then this is the formal upright style - Chokkan. Another important characteristic is that the plant should narrow towards the top. Any kind of tree can be grown in this style. The symbolism of the Chokkan is proud loneliness and unbending character.

If the plant is elongated vertically, but its branches do not have a clear structure, but are located arbitrarily, then this is the Moyogi style. The trunk of the tree can be bent, but the top must be stretched in line with the base, forming a perpendicular to the ground. Moyogi symbolizes simplicity and freedom, and also the desire to go beyond, resisting circumstances.

Fukinagashi and Shakan

These are bonsai styles, the photos of which seem to be taken in a strong gusty wind. Shakan (oblique style) is characterized by a slope at an angle to the ground, but the tree stretches upward. Fukinagashi (bent by the wind) can have both an even and an inclined trunk, but its branches are directed in one direction (in the direction of the slope), as if the tree grew in a strong wind. The symbolism of these styles is resistance to the forces of nature and the struggle for life.

Sokan style

Sokan translates as “forked trunk”. This style was suggested to bonsai lovers by nature itself, since very often two trunks rise from one root, one of which is stronger and higher. The tree can be flat or inclined, this is not very important, the main thing is that it should form a common crown. You can create such a bonsai at home by giving the appearance of a second trunk to the lowest branch. The symbolism of this style is the continuity of generations and respect for traditions. Sometimes Sokan is called "twins" or "father and son".

Kengai and Khan-kengai

These are slightly similar types of bonsai in cascading and semi-cascading styles.Kengai is like a tree growing on a steep cliff. To survive, he had to adapt to difficult circumstances. The symbol of style is plasticity in any conditions.

Khan-kengai is characterized by a more horizontal direction of trunk growth. The trees seem to grow on the shore of the reservoir, trying to reach the water with their crown. Hen-kengai is a bonsai, the photo of which clearly shows that the branches do not fall below the middle part of the pot, and the top of the plant is always above the ground level.

For these plastic styles, plants with bendable stems are always chosen. Pine, cotoneaster, juniper are preferred.

Bundzings

This style is considered one of the most difficult to perform. And he is also one of the most ancient. Otherwise, this style is called "literary". This name is due to the fact that the plants have a schematic form of "Japanese letters". The craftsmen seem to write calligraphic signs, growing trees with long curved trunks without lower branches. The crown of this type of bonsai is permissible only at the very top. The style symbolizes airiness and sublimity. For cultivation, choose coniferous or broad-leaved species.

Charming Yose-ue

Can you imagine bonsai pots in which a small forest has grown? These are Yose-ue-style plants. The composition is made up of a large number of trees with different trunk heights, with different plant thicknesses and ages. Usually an odd number of trees are selected, and they are most often of the same species. They are planted without observing symmetry and avoiding the same distances. Thus, the master gets his own park or a small forest, as much as possible like a corner of wildlife.

Sharimiki Style

The enlightened Japanese have learned to see beauty in every moment of life. They proved that old age can be beautiful too. The embodiment of this statement is the Sharimiki style, that is, "dead wood". The tree is artificially aged, the bark is partially removed from the trunk, and its wood is bleached, creating a contrast between the dead and the living. Areas of dead wood bend in a sophisticated way, but they must be clearly visible. For this species, juniper is most often used.

Planting bonsai

When planning to grow the described miracle, beginners are wondering how to plant a bonsai. This can be done in several ways:

1. Misho's way. This is ideal for aspiring experimenters. It is enclosed in sowing seeds collected from the wild. In this case, you can choose from a variety of sprouts exactly the one you need, and start slowing growth from the very beginning.
2. Toriki's way. This is the cultivation of miniature plants from cuttings or cuttings. To use this method, the bark is cut or pruned in the right place on the branch and the opened wood is treated with horse growth stimulants. A piece of wood is wrapped in moss and foil and waited for 3 (sometimes more) months. The cut site is not allowed to dry out all this time.
3. The Yamadori way. The approximate meaning of this name is “found and dug”. In the spring, a suitable plant is found in a forest or garden, dug in and left for several months to form surface horses. After that, the strong roots are shortened a little, the plant is removed from the soil, and the formation of a bonsai in a pot begins.
4. Ueki's way. With this method, a ready-made young plant is bought in a nursery, then it is cut and planted in a flat pot. Or a young bonsai is bought, and then it is grown based on their style preferences.

How to form a plant

The main challenge when growing bonsai is to keep the tree small. To do this, you need to slow down growth and give the desired shape. To inhibit growth, the roots are often cut off and young shoots are removed, scanty soils are chosen, a minimum amount of fertilizer is used, and special bonsai pots are chosen in which the root system cannot grow much. In addition, they must use a system for weakening the flow of juices, causing horizontal cuts on the wood or braiding the trunk with wire.

When the plant is sufficiently rooted, they begin to cut and bend its branches. To do this, use copper wire, which is entangled with branches and fixed with pegs in a flowerpot.Bends are best started in summer when the branches are most elastic. In order not to damage the crown, the place of the bend is wrapped with a soft tourniquet or washcloth.

Pruning the branches on time helps to awaken the necessary buds for growth. If, to create the ideal shape, it is necessary to direct the branch to the right, then choose a bud sticking out in the right direction, and cut the branch above it, without leaving a hemp above.

By the way, if pine bonsai is grown, then pruning must be done with extreme caution. Damaged branches may turn yellow. This also applies to other conifers.

How to care for a plant

The plant requires care throughout its life. To grow a decent bonsai, home care is provided all year round. This includes transplanting, feeding, watering.

The best time to transplant is in the spring. Care must be taken that the roots do not grow and form a ball. As soon as this has happened, the tree is taken out of the bowl, the roots are pruned and the plant is returned to its place, but in fresh soil.

For planting, make a mixture of 3/5 humus soil, 1/5 peat and 1/5 sand. The soil in the container is carefully compacted so that voids do not form. The height of the soil in the container is about 5-6 cm. From above it is usually decorated with stones and moss.

Top dressing is carried out in spring and summer. The interval is maintained for about two weeks. It is most convenient to use ready-made liquid organic fertilizer with poultry droppings, which is applied 2 hours after watering.

What else do you need to do to grow healthy and beautiful bonsai? Home care involves watering plentifully and regularly. Many people place a container with a tree in a flat container of water. Its bottom is filled with small stones or a grate is placed. The water level in the tray is kept at one mark. This allows you to increase air humidity and reduce watering.

A miniature tree needs water in large quantities. But you need to take into account the type of plant, since residents of different climatic zones have different watering conditions. For example, small-leaved carmona is a bonsai tree, the care of which requires daily abundant watering. But for a fat woman, such watering is destructive, its root system will not cope with the abundance of moisture and will rot.

It is important to understand that the miniature tree needs to be watered more often, even if the species does not like moist soil, when the following factors are present:

• foliage on the branches is large and numerous;
• the plant is planted in a small or flat container, since then there is a large area of ​​moisture evaporation from the surface of the substrate;
• the air in the room is dry and too warm.

In addition, regular spraying will not interfere with the plant. However, keep in mind that evergreen species can only be sprayed with distilled water. When using ordinary tap water, an irremovable whitish coating will appear on the leaves.

Now that you understand what bonsai is, you can try to create your own masterpiece. But think and evaluate your strength. If you are not patient enough, then maybe you should not take on this painstaking work.

Houseplants are not only flowers and palms, small Japanese trees have also won the love of many flower growers and settled at home. Growing bonsai is a complex but fascinating science that has many subtleties and nuances. Sometimes there is even a feeling that it is so difficult, and it is almost impossible to achieve the desired result. But growing small Japanese trees is, above all, a process that must be enjoyed.

To grow bonsai at home, you need to understand their varieties, as well as understand what conditions need to be created for a small tree at home. In any case, it will be an interesting experience that will bring pleasure in the process of growing a tree, as well as delight in the result in the form of a strong and beautiful plant.Bonsai is an introduction to wildlife at home.

Content:

• Bonsai history
• Varieties of small Japanese trees
• Features of caring for bonsai at home

Bonsai history

Despite the fact that Japan is considered the birthplace of bonsai, in fact, the art of growing miniature trees originated in China, several centuries BC. This is evidenced by drawings found at the end of the last century, which describe in detail the technology of growing bonsai. Historians date these images to the time of the Chinese Tang dynasty.

Literally "bonsai" in translation from Japanese means "a tree that grows on a platter." Initially, Buddhist monks were engaged in the art of their cultivation, who always appreciated calmness, measuredness, immersion in themselves and the natural world around them. However, bonsai was not only popular in Asia, historians and archaeologists have found evidence that the ancient Egyptians also knew how to grow small plants in small containers.

In the late 20th - early 21st century, bonsai penetrates Europe and conquers the hearts of many amateur flower growers. Miniature trees conquered with their neatness and beauty, allowing you to plunge into the process of courting and contemplating beauty. Growing bonsai at home is not easy, but the results are worth the effort.

Varieties of small Japanese trees

The centuries-old history of bonsai development has led to the fact that small trees come in different types in their shape, size and name. To date, more than ten different types of bonsai have been bred, each of which is unique and beautiful in its own way. It is difficult to say which one is easier to grow and which one is more difficult. When choosing a Japanese tree for yourself, it is better to navigate by inner feelings and attraction to a specific type. What the soul lies with will be able to grow, enjoying the process and enjoying the contemplation of miniature beauty.

The most popular types of bonsai:

• Chokkan
• Shakan
• Moyogi
• Kengai
• Sokan
• Bundzings
• Yose-ue
• Ishizuki

Chokkan - vertical style

One of the most common and popular types of small Japanese trees. This style is characterized by a straight tree trunk, with a wide crown of leaves at the base, which becomes narrower and smaller towards the top. The symbol of such a tree is internal strength, an unbending rod.

Shakan - a tilted tree

A small tree with an evenly growing but inclined trunk is called a shakan. Almost any tree can be grown in this style, although in the process of caring for it you will have to show dexterity and skill. The symbol of a tree growing towards the side is flexibility and the ability to resist winds.

Moyogi - free style

A tree in this style grows upward, its crown tends upward towards the sun, but the crown has a freer formation, it may be slightly curved or tilted. To some extent, this style unites the previous two. The symbol of such a plant is considered to be simplicity and flexibility, along with the desire to reach up and resist obstacles.

Kengai - cascading tree

Trees of this style really grow in cascades, crown down. Soft branches spread, gently bending, and do not break under the weight of snow or winds. Such a tree looks unusual and original in a home pot. And it symbolizes the ability to adapt to the surrounding circumstances.

Sokan - a forked tree

From the container in which the sokan tree grows, not one trunk comes out, but several at once. As a rule, one branch is always larger and more massive than the other. There can be two or more trunks, they look beautiful and harmonious. In another way, this style is called "father and son", since a smaller tree seems to stretch in a larger one, wants to be like it. Therefore, this style of bonsai symbolizes the connection of generations and the transfer of experience.

Bundzings - high style

This tree has a long, bare trunk and a small crown at the top. The plant has practically no branches, but the vegetation at the top of the trunk looks harmonious and beautiful. Such trees were among the first to learn to grow, and their shape symbolizes the ability to rise above problems and vanity.

Yose-ue - forest style

This bonsai variety is a composition of several trees that look together like a small forest. Most often, trees of the same species are planted in one container, but ese-ue also allows a combination of several types of plants. An important rule is that there must be an odd number of trees.

Ishizuki - trees among stones

In this style, trees grow on rocks and in their crevices. It is quite difficult to care for such a plant at home, therefore, only a true master who is passionate about his work can grow it. But ishizuki symbolizes resilience and the ability to survive in any conditions.

Of course, these are far from all the styles of small Japanese trees, there are many more varieties of them. But you need to start with simple options to learn how to care for bonsai and find out what conditions are best for them. Then the process will bring pleasure, and the result will delight you with a beautiful healthy plant.

Features of caring for miniature trees

Despite the unusualness of such houseplants as bonsai, caring for them involves almost the same conditions as for many other flowers. First of all, you need to prepare a suitable soil in which the Japanese tree will feel comfortable. After that, it is important to install it in a place with sufficient lighting, maintain the desired air temperature and ensure regular watering.

Bonsai are small trees, but they also require periodic replanting. Therefore, it is important to know the rules and features of transplanting miniature trees.

A distinctive feature of bonsai is the need for pruning the crown. Here, too, certain requirements must be observed in order to form a beautiful and correct shape of a mini-tree. Considering all these nuances, it will turn out to grow a unique plant.

 

Optimal soil and bonsai replanting

The main purpose of the transplant is not to increase the capacity in which the miniature tree grows, but to prune the roots and renew the soil. Therefore, as a rule, the pot remains the same. Trimming the roots slows down the growth of the tree, it remains miniature and neat.

As for the soil, a certain composition is needed for the bonsai to feel comfortable, it had enough trace elements and nutrients. The soil before planting consists of 3/5 humus soil, 1/5 peat and 1/5 sand, although bonsai mix is ​​available from many large flower shops. Its main properties are lightness and low acidity.

The transplant is done in the spring, when the active growth of the roots and crown begins. Having changed the soil in the container where the miniature tree grows, you need to carefully trim the roots, leaving a rounded shape. The central roots should be the longest, and the lateral ones should be slightly shorter. The tree is planted in new soil to a depth of no more than 5-6 cm.

Lighting and suitable location

Miniature trees love light, but wither from direct sunlight, so the plant will have to find a place on the windowsill of the east or west window. It is especially dangerous to be in the sun for a newly transplanted tree; such conditions can complicate its adaptation process.

If the place where the bonsai pot stands is dark, it needs to be provided with artificial lighting. Dull leaves that constantly crumble are bad light problems. In the summer, a container with a tree can be placed in the fresh air - a balcony or an open terrace.

Bonsai watering regularity

Miniature trees love water and moisture, but it is better to water them not from above, but by placing the pot in a tray.Stones are placed in it, filled with water to a level of 2-3 cm and a pot with a plant is placed. It is the shallow depth of the pot that causes the soil to dry out quickly, so abundant and regular watering is required. In winter, bonsai should be watered once a week, in summer - once every 4-5 days.

At high air temperatures, it is recommended to spray bonsai leaves, through their surface the plant is also saturated with moisture.

Temperature and humidity

Along with the high requirements for soil moisture, bonsai can only live and grow a beautiful tree at low temperatures. The optimal temperature regime is 12-18 degrees, even in summer. In the spring, when the outside temperature rises above 12-14 degrees, you can take the bonsai to the balcony. In this case, the tree must be protected from drafts.

With regard to air humidity, an average level of 40-50% is best for miniature trees. Bonsai should not be placed near radiators, and if there is dry air in the room in winter, moisture in the pan will help the plant not to experience moisture deficiencies.

Bonsai crown pruning

To form a beautiful tree of the desired shape, it needs a constant crown shape. This should be done with a special small pruner or well-sharpened scissors. As a rule, the tree is pruned in the spring before replanting. In the process, it is necessary to remove old and dry branches, prune young shoots, forming the necessary crown shape.

Thus, the conditions for caring for a bonsai at home have their own characteristics, but are not particularly difficult. Having learned to understand how a small tree feels by the way it looks, each grower will be able to satisfy the requirements that the plant has. The very process of pruning, replanting, watering and contemplating bonsai will help you to plunge into the world of nature and silence. For this, these small but unique and beautiful Japanese trees are appreciated.