You can continue growing tomatoes in September

Gardening how to grow tomatoes agricultural technology

Gardening: how to grow tomatoes - agricultural technology

Varieties with small fruits, when ripe, will become dry and tasteless, and large-fruited ones will not differ in any way from those ripened on the bush. The disadvantages of small-fruited varieties can also be attributed to the fact that they ripen simultaneously with large-fruited (and not at all earlier, as one might assume). Large-fruited varieties include, for example, the "monomakh cap" variety, the weight of which can reach 800-900 grams. This is a tomato weighing almost a kilogram! How to grow giant tomatoes? Buy the right seeds!

2. Plant the seeds under a thin (2-4 mm) layer of soil and cover with newspaper

Do not plant the seeds deeply - they will either not sprout, or (immediately after germination) will stop growing until the lateral roots are formed. But shallow planting of seeds also has drawbacks: seedlings can germinate with an uncaptured seed coat (although in practice I have never encountered this, even when sowing seeds directly on the soil surface without deepening). After planting the seeds, cover the ground with newspaper (with a layer of one, maximum two sheets of newspaper, cut to the shape of the container so that the newspaper adheres to the ground), and water it with a spray bottle to keep it always moist. This will not erode the soil during watering, as well as provide the necessary level of moisture and oxygen access (the seeds must breathe, if they are simply put in water, then without air they will simply rot). All this will provide ideal conditions for seed germination.

Home garden 6 vegetables you can grow on a windowsill

Home Garden: 6 Vegetables You Can Grow on a Windowsill Growing cucumbers at home is a very tempting idea. Just imagine: you wake up in mid-March, go to the window, pick a couple of young cucumbers from a green bush, and five minutes later there is a healthy vegetable salad on the table ... And what a smell all over the apartment!

If a thought flashed through you now: "Maybe I should try?" - here are some arguments to help you decide:

Want to see how it might look? And here's how in this video:

Stop, stop, do not urgently run after the seeds that you have prepared for summer cottages! Everything is in order. First, we carefully read what you need to know and take into account when growing cucumbers at home.

Suitable varieties

Not all cucumber varieties are suitable for indoor cultivation. You need to choose Self-pollinated Hybrids... It's best if they will Early ripe... Even better - if they are also Bush... And then - Shade tolerant))

Excellent proven themselves Hybrids:

Good reviews are also about Varieties:

If you are just starting to grow cucumbers at home - choose from these varieties, you will not go wrong.

The necessary conditions

Cucumbers, like any other plant, have their own preferences. They are:

Tomatoes

A red tomato is clearly not a winter or spring vegetable. Therefore, fresh tomatoes from your garden in April and May are an indescribable pleasure (and pride, whatever you say!).

Many do not dare to grow tomatoes in an apartment, fearing that they simply will not succeed. You know, the bushes strewn with red fruits on the windowsill are just at first glance, "how difficult it is to be horrified." Anyone can grow tomatoes at home. Almost everyone grows flowers in their apartments, and this process is no less complicated 🙂

If you are eager to try your hand at growing homemade tomatoes, heed the advice of our experienced summer residents.

Suitable varieties

Suitable for a home garden Self-pollinated hybrids... Do not mess with tall varieties - you will suffer. Better to choose Undersized (or even dwarf ones). It is also worth sacrificing love for large tomatoes, it is better to plant Small-fruited varieties - they ripen faster and easier.

There are a lot of tomato seeds on sale today of those varieties and hybrids that are specially designed for home cultivation:

They enjoy special love Dwarf:

Ampel varieties that look great in hanging pots are wonderful - such as:

Advice: the store will offer you a lot of varieties of tomatoes, assuring that they are great for home growing. Listening to this and believing the seller, you still carefully read what is written on the packaging: the bags we need have special marks “Home garden”, “Harvest series on the window” or “Recommended for pot growing”. Now, if you saw such an inscription - feel free to pay money)

The necessary conditions

Caring for "home" tomatoes is not much different from caring for them in the country or in a personal plot.

Advice: if you want the tomato bush to be symmetrically developed and beautiful, turn it 180 ° daily in relation to the light from the window - then it will build up the green mass evenly from all sides (some owners rotate the pots with bushes 90 °, considering what will be even more evenly))

Sweet pepper (bulgarian)

This southern juicy vegetable is quite suitable for "domestication", it is unpretentious, beautiful and very useful. Although you will have to be patient - you will be able to taste the first sweet peppers only 5-6 months after germination.

Growing it at home is interesting, to say the least. Yes, and profitable as well. How is it profitable? Yes, because pepper is a perennial plant, and the bushes planted today will delight you with their harvest for 2-3 years. Tempting? And then! If you decide to add bell peppers to your windowsill, get acquainted with the secrets of growing it.

Suitable varieties

As in the case of cucumbers and tomatoes, for a home garden you need to select Early maturing self-pollinated hybrids... In home culture, varieties have proven themselves best. Universal purpose, used both for planting in open ground and in protected:

Good reviews received Medium early varieties:

The necessary conditions

Bell pepper will not be "capricious" and will thank you with a good harvest, if you observe several important conditions for it:

Advice: it is categorically not recommended to grow sweet and bitter peppers on the same windowsill (and in the same room) - as a result of cross-pollination, all your peppers will turn out to be bitter (a distance of 2-3 m to the next window sill is not an obstacle, you can not check it))

Bitter pepper

I think that bitter pepper lovers will never give up the opportunity to always have a bush with burning pointed fruits at hand ... for for them any dish with hot pepper becomes immeasurably tastier))

But to grow such a miracle on the windowsill is not difficult at all. To do this, you only need the presence of the sun in the window for 3-4 hours a day, a pot of soil, and the necessary seeds. And in 2-3 months you will have a gorgeous treasured bush, strewn with medium-sized fruits. And it is capable of bearing fruit in one place up to 5 years!

By the way, it is especially worth emphasizing that all representatives of "bitter peppers" are highly decorative and will certainly become a decoration of your home garden!
I don't think I had to persuade you)) It remains only to skim through a few lines of the necessary information.

Suitable varieties

For home cultivation, seeds of early-maturing self-pollinated varieties and hybrids are best suited. To the delight of hot pepper lovers, almost all varieties of hot pepper fully meet their purpose)

These are varieties and hybrids:

Special feedback received Two varieties of pepper:

The necessary conditions

In order for hot pepper bushes to grow and develop without problems, several basic conditions must be met from the very beginning.

Beans

Everyone can grow beans on the windowsill. Moreover, it is unpretentious, rises and grows quickly, does not require special care. It is a self-pollinating plant; in a month and a half it will bloom, and in two you will be removing young pods. They are extraordinarily tasty in vegetable stews, soups, in an omelette and simply stewed.

Believe me, you will not regret it if you decide to "get" a couple of bean bushes).

Suitable varieties

Practice has shown that it is most profitable to grow at home Early maturing varieties of asparagus bush beans... But also Curly varieties shouldn't be written off. At the very least, they are very decorative - long bright green vines with large flowers of pink, purple or white look amazing. And you won't be left without a crop either.

Which beans to choose?

The necessary conditions

It is easy to take care of the beans, it is enough to provide them with regular watering, loosening and feeding and fulfill a few simple requirements:

Carrot

Have you ever heard that carrots are grown on a windowsill? In a simple flowerpot or container, you can get a very decent harvest. Most varieties will allow you to start picking fresh carrots as early as 3.5 months after planting: when the majority of summer residents just start sowing carrots, you will already be eating them!

Carrots, of course, are capricious, but the main thing is to know a few secrets, and then you will "make friends" with it for a long time:

Suitable varieties

Carrots are remarkable in that the root crop, even when it has just been born, is already suitable for consumption. Therefore, growing it is a win-win business))

The necessary conditions

You need to start with preparation Lightweight and well-drained Soils. This is extremely important: the easier it is to penetrate oxygen into the soil, the juicier and healthier the roots will be.

Advice: Carrots can be grown in cut plastic bottles. And cheap, and convenient, and mobile))

Home garden with herbs

Well, what a vegetable garden without greenery? Onions, parsley, dill, salads, basil, mint ...

If you are a fan of greenery on the window, we advise you to read the articles on our website:

And finally, we suggest admiring the home garden of Nadezhda Shcherbinina. Any of us can make the same branch of a summer residence ... you just want to.

The more snow outside the window, the whiter the landscapes, the more we miss the bright colors of the past summer, the fresh biting sound of a jet from a hose, the whisper of herbs - at our dacha. Hands have long missed the ground, and oh, how long to beloved beds ...

But it is in our power to reclaim a piece of summer and a summer residence. There is everything for this - desire and ... a window sill! Let me remind myself once again: if we start right now, then by March 8 we may already have our own cucumbers! Let's start?

Tomatoes on the balcony correct cultivation

Tomatoes on the balcony: proper cultivation

The absence of your own summer cottage or garden is not a reason to give up the dream of growing organic vegetables on your own. And the owners of balconies, glazed loggias or open terraces have nothing to worry about at all - in summer, vegetables grow well and ripen in their homes among flower arrangements. And the tomato is one of the most popular crops among balcony gardeners, because it grows well, ripens quickly and pleases with abundant harvests for a long time.

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Table of contents

4 Growing seedlings 5 ​​Fertilizing tomatoes 6 How to form a beautiful bush 7 The main enemies of tomatoes

Varieties for garden beds

Before filling all the free space with pots of seedlings, it is important to remember: the success of successfully growing tomatoes on a balcony in an urban setting depends on the right variety. After all, not every plant will agree to grow indoors in a small area. But do not despair - breeders have bred many varieties that develop well and bear fruit on the balconies.

There are many varieties of tomatoes. When choosing, carefully read their characteristics

If you are the happy owner of a large balcony space and can afford to place large containers with soil, then you can opt for large-fruited tomato varieties: Oxheart, Carlson, De Barao. The owners of the more modest living space will have to look for their own among the dwarf varieties. You can sow, for example, Yellow Pearl, Cascade Red, Verlioku, Red Banana, Ruby, White Pouring, Canada News, Oak or Little Florida. Small cherry tomatoes showed themselves well in the balcony environment.

Other varieties intended for growing on balconies are also popular: Max, Balconnoe Miracle, Gina, Belconi Red, George Bush, Japanese indoor tomato, Bonsai Micro, Siberian early ripening.

General characteristics of balcony tomatoes

Although the taste of balcony tomatoes does not differ from their garden "relatives", there are still some differences between the two types. To a greater extent - regarding the appearance of plants.

Features of dwarf varieties:

Compact root system. The fruits are small, regular in shape. Small plants (no more than half a meter in height) .Do not need to be tied up. The fruits ripen faster than in the garden. High yield (about 2 kg).

We grow seedlings correctly

Properly grown seedlings are the key to a good harvest

The process of growing tomatoes begins with the germination of seeds. They do this from the beginning of February and continue until April. With early sowing, the first fruits will be in April, spring seeds will delight with the harvest in September. Also, deciding to make a small garden on the balcony on the balcony, it is important to take into account the level of lighting, since tomatoes are light-loving plants. That is, the best place for a tomato plantation will be the southern balcony. On poorly lit loggias, the lack of sunlight is compensated by artificial lighting (fluorescent lamps).

There are several ways to germinate tomato seeds: directly into the ground and with preliminary soaking.

Method number 1

Soaking the seeds Cover the saucer with a piece of cloth, put the seeds on it, cover with a damp cloth on top. Place the saucer in a plastic bag. Place in a warm place (you can put a plate under the bottom of the plate) and periodically moisten a cloth with seeds. When white roots appear in the grains, plant them in the ground. Drizzle with warm water, but do not overmoisten.

Method number 2

Place the seeds in the refrigerator for several days - for hardening. Place the tomato seeds in fabric bags. Pour hot water into a thermos. Dip the seed bags into a thermos of water and leave overnight. Plant seeds in the ground (purchased or from the garden). Sow in furrows no deeper than 1 cm. Water abundantly and cover seeds with earth. Wrap the container with seeds in plastic bags, creating the effect of a greenhouse. Before the seedlings germinate, air the pots with soil daily by removing the bag.

Method number 3

Dwarf tomato varieties - ideal for growing on balconies Fill a plastic 200-gram glass (preferably transparent) with earth and pour boiling water over. Wait until the soil has cooled. Using a pencil, make a depression in the ground and place a few seeds (if already germinated, then one per cup). Cover the containers with foil and place in a warm place. After the sprouts appear (on the 3rd day), put the containers in a cool place (windowsill). It is desirable to illuminate with artificial light, water only when the top layer of the soil dries up.

Growing seedlings

To grow tomato seedlings, you can use both a purchased mixture and soil from the garden, preferably from a garden bed where nightshade crops have not grown before. It is also not difficult to prepare the soil yourself by mixing peat, turf soil and humus in equal proportions.

With the appearance of seedlings coming down, wait until the plants get stronger and become stronger, then transplant into a larger container for a permanent "place of residence". Planting tomatoes is an important process, so we will pay attention to all stages.

Seedling containers can be made by yourself

First of all, prepare containers for the subsequent planting of nightshade crops on balconies. These can be cone buckets, large pots, wooden or plastic crates. But it is worth considering: one plant will need about 3 liters of soil.

The next stage is the preparation of the drainage layer. Since tomatoes cannot tolerate excess water, drainage is essential. The easiest way is to cover the bottom of the pot with 2 centimeters of small pebbles or pieces of expanded clay. And only after that you can fill the container with soil or earthen mixture. Fill the form no more than three quarters.

When planting tomatoes, deepen the plants 2 cm lower than they grew in the previous form. Gently sprinkle with earth on all sides and pour abundantly under the root with warm water. Put pots of tomatoes in the sun no earlier than in a week - wait until the plants take root.

Important: balcony tomatoes do not like an excess of moisture and a lack of fresh air, which means that on cold nights it is advisable to take containers with plants to a warm room. But in the heat, do not forget to ventilate the room, in particular, this applies to glazed balconies.

Top dressing of tomatoes

Experienced agronomists advise to water nightshades on balconies only when necessary - when the topsoil dries up. It is better to do this in the morning using warm water (more than 20 degrees). Pour the liquid not under the bush itself, but around it.

Tomatoes need not only be watered, but also periodically fed.

But even the best varieties of tomatoes growing on the balcony need feeding. Experienced gardeners use different types of mixtures as fertilizer. For example, someone prefers exclusively organic products and sprinkles tomatoes with a solution of chicken manure or mullein (diluted with water 1: 5).But more often they use mineral fertilizers, which are sold in specialized stores. 30 g of the finished mixture of mineral fertilizers and 10 liters of water is quite enough for watering a rather large balcony garden. For the first time, such a top dressing should be made about a week after the tomatoes are planted on the balcony. In the future, feed the "bed" every 10 - 12 days. To make the tomatoes on the balcony develop more quickly, foliar fertilizers can also be used.

Experts call a urea solution a good feeding option (add 1 teaspoon of urea to 3 liters of water). You can also mix a tablespoon of superphosphate and wood ash with 3 liters of water, or use a nitroammophoska dissolved in water for irrigation (1 tablespoon per 3 liters of liquid).

How to form a beautiful bush?

Ways to form bushes

Beautiful bushes of tomatoes can also serve as a decorative element of the balcony. But a beautiful tomato "crown" is not formed by itself. To make the bushes look aesthetically pleasing and give as much yield as possible, it is better to grow undersized plants in two stems. If there is a place on the balcony for tall tomato plants, then leave only one shoot - it is better to get rid of all the stepsons. Also, do not forget from time to time to remove the shoots coming from the axils of the leaves, but at the same time try not to damage the main stem. This is done in order to "clear" the bush from unnecessary branches, freeing up space for inflorescences and better illumination of the plant. In order to avoid the development of diseases, the bush should be cleaned in time from yellowed, fallen or already diseased leaves.

The main enemies of tomatoes

The most common problem when growing tomatoes on balconies is fungal diseases caused by excess moisture. You can defeat the problem by increasing the lighting of the balcony and frequent ventilation of the room. Bordeaux mixture gives good results in the fight against tomato fungi.

Ingredients for the mix:

Mix ingredients. Store the finished mixture for no more than a day.

The most common tomato diseases:

If we talk about pests, then spider mites and whiteflies are the most troublesome for tomatoes. They get rid of the first by spraying the bush with an infusion of onion and garlic husks (pour 200 g with a liter of water). Whitefly is destroyed by means of the Confidor type.

Tasty vegetable garden

Tasty vegetable garden Viktor Sergeenko comments ...

Thanks for the valuable advice! I think it will come in handy for many. Fortunately, I don't have phytophthora at all.

January 18, 2016, 19:22 The expert comments ...

Hello, I am a completely inexperienced gardener, I have been growing vegetables in a greenhouse for 4 years. but the harvests of tomatoes and cucumbers are stunning, the neighbors are simply perplexed. I am a housewife and I have enough time to read the literature, that is, to study agricultural technology. I want to share my experience in growing tomatoes. Since Autumn, I have introduced into the soil not quite rotted manure from under geese, ducks, turkeys. During the winter, all this will be well processed and normalized. I want to admit that for some reason my tomato seedlings are always dead, frankly speaking. When the time comes to plant it, you just want to throw it away…. I start planting it at the end of April, on the 26th or 27th. Before, for 1.5 weeks I dig a hole of about 30 cm, put grass, then compost, fill it all with Baikal, instructions 1 liter per hole, sprinkle it with earth. It is advisable to cover the top with a black film for warmth. After 1.5 weeks, I start planting tomatoes. I remove the film, loosen the hole with the previously laid compost, add a handful of ash, a pinch of superphosphate, note, just a pinch. I mix all this with the earth, pour 5 liters of water into the hole, and when the water is absorbed a little, I plant the seedlings. My beds are high, and I try to plant deeper, but if your beds are not high, you should not deeply deepen, it is better to spill the tomato later. That's it, the planting is over, I don't put the mulch right away, I'm waiting for the soil to warm up. I begin to remove the lower leaves after 2 beads, not earlier, because.this is a big stress for plants, believe me, I experimented. After 2 weeks, I start watering the tomatoes and present them. I water 10 liters per 1m. sq. after watering 1 liter of Agricola solution 3. I mulch with a sufficient layer. On the eve of the morning I cut off the leaves that touch the ground, everything, the next watering in a week. I'm just starting to water already at 16 liters per 1 sq. m And I do the 2nd feeding 2 weeks after the 1st. I insist in a barrel manure, nettle, yeast, ash, superphosphate. The third feeding I have is mainly ash or potassium sulfate. All Falling in love passed, the image left the body, and it was like that until I met the one and only one that was destined for me by fate ... I no longer treat anything. Phytophthora is not present. My secret is simple. I plant the tomatoes on a bed 80 cm wide in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 40 cm. I lead in 2 stems, and not a single extra stepson, I gradually remove the leaves between the brushes of the tomatoes, by the end of July, the tomatoes stand with bare stems, the leaves are 3 pieces, only on the top of the head. I don't spray it with anything, but I hang a bottle of iodine on top in the greenhouse, with an open stopper, that's it, no fitftora has ever visited me, try it. At the beginning of the season, I pinch the tops so that all the power goes into the ripening of the fruits. That's all. My neighbors with many years of cultivation experience, but they, without any hesitation, express me frank delight.

March 4, 2016 1:50 AM

The most delicious and productive green tomatoes varieties, photos, reviews, videos

The most delicious and productive green tomatoes: varieties, photos, reviews, videos

Delicious varieties of tomatoes are Swamp and Kiwi.

The Swamp variety is included in the State Register. It is suitable for both farms and private households. Mainly grown in film-type greenhouses. This type of early tomato ripens already about 94-96 days after the first sprouts appear. The plant belongs to the indeterminate type. Has leaves that have slight corrugation. The inflorescence is of both simple and intermediate type.

Usually, the first brush appears after the ninth leaf, and subsequent brushes - only after 3 nodules. The bush grows up to 1.5 m. It feels great in a greenhouse. If grown outdoors, its height will be no more than 1 m. It is best to grow 3 plants per square meter.

Experts recommend making 2 stems. By the way, there will not be many stepsons from one bush. The fruits are of a standard shape. The surface is slightly ribbed. Green color. When the fruit ripens, the peel acquires a yellowish-greenish tint, but the yellowness is expressed only by infrequent blotches on the peel. These varieties of tomatoes produce fruits weighing 200 g. The maximum weight is not more than 350 g. The pulp is very tasty and has a pleasant smell. There is an unusual sourness.

The yield is approximately 5-6 kg per square meter. By the way, the bushes do not lie on the ground. The only drawback is that if you overexpose the fruit on the plant, it becomes too watery.

The Kiwi variety has excellent taste. The fruits are sweetish, they even remind many people of the tropical fruit itself, which is where the name of this type of tomato comes from. The plant belongs to the semi-determinant type. Kiwi is considered a mid-season variety, it is very productive. These unusual tomatoes are best grown outdoors, but greenhouses can also be used. The height of one mouth reaches about 1.5 m, so pinching and a garter will be needed. If you make 2 stems, then you can get a larger yield of delicious tomatoes.

The fruits are characterized by a rounded, slightly flat shape, and their color is marsh. The weight of one fruit is not more than 200-300 g. The variety is very productive. The pulp is sweetish, has a bright green color. These tomatoes are perfect for juicing and fresh consumption. Everyone will like this exotic.

The best varieties of tomatoes (video)

A tomato usually looks like a Russian yummy tomato, and people are used to it.Of course, this vegetable variety cannot be replaced with anything from tomatoes, but there are other very tasty tomatoes, many of which are of a non-standard green shade. By the way, some varieties can be grown in their own gardens.

If we consider what varieties of green tomatoes are suitable for growing, then it is best to choose "Malachite Box", "Kiwi", "Swamp", "Emerald Apple" and "Emerald". Many people will love these exotic tomatoes. The main thing is to grow them correctly. The fruits can be used fresh or canned.

Errors in growing tomatoes (video)

Gallery: green tomatoes (15 photos)

Tomatoes tolerate a cold snap to 00C, but not frost. Tomatoes are light-requiring (tolerate a little partial shade). Tomatoes are moisture-loving (especially in the first half of the growing season, before fruit appears). Tomatoes are less fertile ground than peppers or eggplants. Tomatoes are responsive to hilling (more hilling, more root mass, more yield).

Don't forget about the crop rotation. We do not grow tomatoes in the same beds every year. Crop rotation reduces the risk of plant contamination with soil pathogens, in particular late blight. Also, you cannot plant tomatoes where potatoes, eggplants and peppers grew last season, as they have many common diseases. Preferred for tomatoes of the land on which peas, cucumbers, and onions were grown.

greenhouse tomatoes

When the threat of night frosts has passed, when the night temperature is almost constantly kept at least 100C, it's time to plant seedlings in open ground. This is usually mid-May.

greenhouse seedlings in the garden

If the seedlings are purchased, then they are planted (preferably) in cloudy weather, or in the evening, avoiding direct sunlight. When buying, we choose seedlings with a developed root system and a thick stem without lush light foliage and without an ovary. If, nevertheless, there is an ovary on the seedlings, then we break it off, thereby saving the strength of the plant for survival. Do not spare the ovary. Otherwise, the strength of the plant will go to flowering and ovary and you will not get powerful seedlings with a developed root system. The seedling will not grow and develop properly, and fruits from an unbroken ovary will be deplorable.

tomato seedlings grown in an apartment on a windowsill

If we grew the seedlings ourselves (see the section on seedlings), in cups, then you can plant them at any time of the day, since the root system is practically not damaged when transplanting seedlings from cups (your seedlings will not even wither).

planting seedlings in open ground

We plant the tomatoes in the soil deeper, so that our sprout is covered by 10-15 centimeters on top. Don't be afraid to plant the tomatoes deeper. A tomato bush will be the more powerful, the larger and more powerful its root system. And this can be achieved only by planting the bush deeper (but not more than half the length of the stem). Then the stem sprinkled with earth will sprout additional roots in just a couple of weeks.

Add a half-liter jar of manure or compost to each hole. If there is no sprinkle and compost, add vermicompost (we talked about it in more detail above).

We leave enough space between the plants, otherwise thickened plantings will receive less light and poor ventilation, and this increases the risk of late blight.

We plant tomatoes according to the scheme:

the distance between the pits is 50 cm,

the distance in the row spacing is 60-70 cm.

After planting, water the tomatoes abundantly. And we continue to water abundantly for 2 weeks (almost daily) in order to stimulate the development of additional roots on the sprinkled stem with the presence of moisture. When the tomatoes are well rooted (and you will notice this at the beginning of active growth and the addition of green mass), water them rarely, but abundantly. Then the roots will rush to grow deeper in search of moisture.Otherwise (if the ground is constantly wet and further, they will develop only the upper root system in the upper layer of the earth) throughout the season, your tomatoes will depend on watering. They did not water it once in the summer, the top layer of the earth remained dry, and the tomatoes wilted. And having a deep root, the plant on dry days will look for moisture in the lower layers of the earth, where it is almost constantly. Therefore, from the moment of active growth of the green mass, we water abundantly and rarely (no more than once a week).

You need to be especially careful with watering in cool and cloudy weather. There is a risk of late blight. The rule works here - in cloudy and humid weather, it is better to underfill than to pour.

We feed the tomatoes with mineral fertilizer (you can use the usual nitrophobic fertilizer) every 10 days, starting from the flowering period, but always a little.

Young tomatoes (still in seedlings) are very demanding on phosphorus. Under its influence, the fruits become more vitamin C and their quality improves. However, when fruits ripen, tomatoes require a lot of potassium and nitrogen from the soil, so they need feeding. The first feeding is carried out with complex fertilizers (50-60 g per 10 l of water), when there is an intensive growth of the bush: use nitrophoska, mullein or chicken droppings.

In our opinion, good results are obtained with the fertilizer of the ROST company (concentrate or universal). This fertilizer is based on potassium humate. Compared to conventional organo-mineral fertilizers, ROST contains a high concentration of potassium humate, NPK, microelements, and has fungicidal activity.

Mullein solution gives no worse effect than ROST fertilizers. But you must admit that not everyone has a mullein and does not always have it at hand. It is much easier to add 20 grams of ROSTa to a bucket of water and do not suffer with the search for a mullein.

During the formation of fruits and until the end of fruiting, strengthen the potassium nutrition by feeding the plants with ash (1 glass per 10 liters of water).

We plant several varieties of tomatoes, then the harvest can be harvested from mid-summer to late autumn. Early ripe tomatoes ripen in June. Mid-early tomatoes ripen in July, mid-ripening ones - in early August, and late ones - from late summer to early autumn.

tomatoes on a trellis

Let's take our stepson on time and efficiently. A sore question for many - when, how and whether or not to pinch? Let us tell you our point of view. The formation of plants of tall and low-growing varieties is different.

The yield of low-growing varieties is naturally limited by the height of the bush. No more than 4-5 fruit brushes are laid on the stem. It is irrational to remove the lateral (axillary) stepchildren from such plants. It is more profitable to plant them quite spaciously, at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other, slightly deepening the plant in the hole.

And tall varieties must be pinned. Tall plants with stepchildren quickly turn into a "jungle" that cannot be looked after. The process becomes unregulated, the fruits become smaller. Thickened plants are threatened by fungal diseases. All axillary stepchildren must be removed as early as possible - when small, they break out easily and painlessly. The process is laborious, but the effort will pay off with the harvest. Good root nutrition will accelerate fruit ripening in the lower tiers and flowering in the upper tiers.
At the end of August, on tall and late varieties, pinch the top. This is necessary in order to interrupt the flowering of the upper brushes and to allow all the fruits that have set to ripen. It makes no sense to feel sorry for the flowering shoots at the end of August. They inhibit the maturation of the ovaries, and as a result, the yield of ripe fruits will be less.

Many gardeners believe that it is necessary to remove the lower, and sometimes "extra" leaves on tomatoes. The question is controversial. We believe that everything depends on the climate and the vagaries of the weather. The dense foliage on our tomatoes is a blessing. It saves the soil from overheating and drying out, fruits from sunburn. In addition, everyone knows that leaves are the nutrient factory for any plant.It is in the leaves under the influence of sunlight that organic substances are formed from the carbon dioxide absorbed by them. The plant gets 50% of its nutrition from the roots and 50% from the foliage.

You should act taking into account the circumstances: a dry and hot summer allows you to spare the plants, not to pick off the leaves, not to deprive them of food, rainy and cool weather dictates its own conditions, and then the question of removing excess leaves from the bush becomes relevant (usually these are the lower leaves affected by late blight ).

When the tomatoes begin to grow actively and noticeably increase in height, you need to think about props. Low-growing tomatoes can be stuck one support at a time on a bush made of improvised material (old boards, sticks, chopped maple twigs, willow). The height of the support should be within 1-1.5 meters. We drive up to 50 cm deep into the soil, and a support with a height of 50-100 cm remains on the surface.This is quite enough for low-growing varieties of tomatoes.

For tall varieties, we recommend a trellis (like for grapes). We hammer in two powerful pegs along the edges of the garden bed and stretch the wire (3-4 rows at a distance of 30-40 cm between each row). As the tomato grows, we tie its shoots and stems to this trellis.

For tall tomatoes, we recommend periodically pouring (puffing) the earth under the base of the bush. Additional roots will begin to form on the stem that is underground, thereby giving the bush additional nutrition.

Tomatoes are harvested as they ripen. In late autumn, at the first frost, all green tomatoes are harvested. Lighter (light green) will go well on the windowsill, and darker (dark green) will be salted.

Tomatoes in unheated polycarbonate or glass greenhouses can be harvested before the onset of frost if the seedlings are planted in mid or late summer. But for autumn tomatoes, planting and care in the greenhouse have their own characteristics, accounting for which will allow the planted seedlings to develop normally, and the fruits have time to fill up before the cold weather.

What varieties of tomatoes to choose

Not every variety of tomatoes is suitable for planting in the fall. So which tomatoes are better to plant in the greenhouse? The variety must meet two conditions:

1. Be early maturing.
2. The fruits should be small.

Rules for growing tomatoes in greenhouses in the fall

When to sow seedlings

The growing season of early maturing varieties in a greenhouse is 60-85 days. It is necessary to minus this time from the date of the onset of the first frost (according to the forecast for a year or usually in a specific region). For example, if frosts are expected on October 20, then the optimal time for planting a tomato in a polycarbonate greenhouse is July 26 - August 20.

This means that by this time the seedlings should be in the best time for transplanting, which is 50 days. Consequently, the date of sowing seeds for seedlings is June 6-30. Seedlings are grown as usual, only they are not hardened.

The calculation is approximate, for each climatic zone it will be different. It is clear that in the fall, the planting of tomatoes in a greenhouse in the South Urals or Moscow can be done later than in Irkutsk due to the different timing of the onset of frost.

How to care for autumn tomato plantings

Seedlings are sown in the wells using conventional technology. For proper planting of a tomato in a greenhouse, the distance between the rows of holes is left 70 cm, and the holes themselves in the row are placed with an interval of 50 cm.

In general, planting and care corresponds to the principles of summer tomato cultivation, but it should be borne in mind that development at the initial stage will take place in very hot weather. To reduce the harmful effects of scorching rays and dry weather, two changes are made to the process:

1. The first two weeks after transplanting seedlings, it is watered abundantly and daily. Then they switch to the usual watering regime: before the fruit set, once a week, half a bucket under the bush, after the fruits appear every 2-3 days, 3-4 liters under the bush. If it is very hot and the upper leaves are curling up, then slightly increase the frequency of watering.
2. Arrange shading on the south and west sides of the greenhouse. Any kind of screen will do, from stretched old sheets to nets. After the heat has subsided, the screens must be removed.

Growing autumn tomatoes from summer ones

Planting and growing tomatoes in greenhouses in the fall can be carried out in another way, from tomatoes that have been grown in a greenhouse since spring and have already yielded. But only those varieties are suitable that have time to finish fruiting by frost.

If after harvesting summer tomatoes there is enough time for a new growing season, then proceed as follows:

• Summer tomato bushes are pruned to stimulate new growth.
• They add top dressing of the same composition as when preparing the soil in the spring, since the soil had time to deplete during the season.
• Water the pruned bush regularly until shoots appear, then continue watering as described in the section above.

Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse in the fall will significantly increase the yield and serve fresh tomatoes to the table until late autumn.

Growing tomatoes is a laborious process, therefore, novice gardeners are not recommended to do them. But sometimes, even with experienced owners, plants suffer from improper care and growing errors. How to prevent them - read in our article.

Each new season poses serious tests for summer residents. One of the main problems is the low yield of tomatoes. This culture is considered quite capricious, so many gardeners despair and are content with the small number of tomatoes that they manage to collect. However, everything can be fixed! To do this, you need to heed the following helpful tips.

1. "Tomato" geography

Planting tomatoes correctly is half the battle. In order for thermophilic fruits to receive enough sun in the middle lane, they need to be planted in a garden bed oriented east to west... It is also preferable to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse - in this case, they will warm up well during the day and cool less at night. Any increase in daylight hours is guaranteed to increase yields.

Correct placement will allow tomatoes to receive the maximum amount of light for 12-14 hours a day.

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2. Don't forget about pollination of tomatoes.

Unlike cucumbers, all varieties and hybrids of tomatoes are self-pollinated, i.e. one flower contains both female (pistil) and male organs (stamens). But in order for pollen to get from the stamens to the pistil, some kind of external influence is required - a breath of wind, the touch of insect paws, etc. When planting in open ground, this is not a problem. But in a closed greenhouse, these auxiliary factors are absent, and you have to act manually. To improve fruit setting, every few days shake flower brushes... Also give a good effect spraying brushes with fruit formation stimulants (Ovary, bud, etc.).

Shake the plant lightly while gently holding the stem, or use a fan to simulate wind

3. Easy and efficient feeding

During the flowering of the second and third flower brushes, tomato bushes need feeding. Often used for this weak boric acid solution... It stimulates the formation of pollen and new growth points, increases fruiting and increases the sugar level in tomatoes. To prepare the nutritional composition, you need to dilute 10 g of boric acid powder in 10 liters of water. Spray tomato bushes evenly and you are guaranteed a 20% increase in yield!

The first spraying is done in the budding phase, the second - during flowering and the third - during fruiting

4. Strengthening the root system

If the root system of tomatoes weakens, over time this can lead to the death of the entire plant.Strong and strong roots provide more fruit with nutrients and, as a result, increase yields. To strengthen the root system, hilling... But this should not be done every day, but during those periods when the roots start to grow.

Huddle bushes evenly on all sides

It happens like this: first, the root mass of the seedlings intensively grows, then its growth slows down and the vegetative mass begins to form. After that, root growth is again activated exactly until the moment when flowering and fruit setting begins. You can "catch" these moments by carefully looking at the plants - if outgrowths or pimples have appeared on the stem at the very ground, the bush is sprinkled with damp earth. When the stem at the base changes color from greenish to blue, it's time to re-hilling.

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5. Reuse of tops

Tomatoes are very demanding on the composition and characteristics of the soil. And it turns out that they grow excellently on their own tops. Collect healthy tops in the fall, chop them up and embed them in the soil... In the spring, plant tomato seedlings on this place and the results will not be long in coming. Some summer residents also advise putting a small raw fish in the planting holes (sprinkle it with earth on top and plant seedlings). Decaying organic matter will saturate plants with essential nutrients.

It is better to burn tops affected by diseases and pests, preventing their reuse.

6. Be sure to stepchild tomatoes

To get a good harvest of tomatoes, it is very important to remove excess shoots. In this case, the plant ceases to expend energy on feeding excess greenery and redirects all the necessary substances for setting fruits. Not the entire stepson is removed to the stem, but leaving a small stump 0.5-1 cm high.On the open ground, tomatoes are stepson 1 time per season, and in the greenhouse - as needed (usually every 7-10 days).

Be careful when pinching and try not to damage the plants.

7. Tear off leaves during fruiting

The forces necessary for good fruiting of tomatoes take away not only extra shoots, but also an excess of green mass in the form of leaves. Worst of all, when the lower leaves on the bushes lie on the ground and become conductors of infection. The first removal of leaves is carried out in mid-late June in dry and warm weather, preferably in the morning, so that the wound has time to heal during the day. Usually, 1-3 lower leaves are cut off weekly until the first inflorescences appear. This improves ventilation and removes unnecessary stress from the bushes.

Until all the fruits are tied in the brush, do not break off the leaves above it.

8. Useful foliar dressing

Spraying the green part of tomatoes with nutritious compositions allows you to get an early harvest and protect the plant from diseases. Foliar dressing is carried out no more than 1 time in 7-10 days, in the evening, in dry and warm weather. For the preparation of foliar dressings, the following compositions are used:

• urea - 1 tsp for 10 liters of water;
• calcium nitrate − 1 tsp for 10 liters of water;
• potassium nitrate or potassium monophosphate − 1 tsp for 10 liters of water;
• whey and iodine - 1 liter and 20 drops, respectively, per 10 liters of water.

Carry out foliar dressing up to 3-4 times per season

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9. Special care during fruiting

With the onset of fruiting, tomato bushes need a special diet and composition of fertilizers applied. The following top dressing is most often recommended:

• ash. After watering or rain, pour dry ash under the tomato bushes at the rate of 3-4 tbsp. for 1 sq.m. It can be applied during the entire fruiting period every 10-14 days;
• yeast feeding... Add about 100 g of fresh yeast and 0.5 cups of sugar to a 3 liter container. Fill it to the top with settled water at room temperature and place in a warm place to ferment. Shake the container occasionally so that the composition does not stagnate. Dilute the resulting mash with water in a ratio of 1 cup to 10 liters of water and add at least 1 liter of solution under each bush;
• "Nutritious platter" - fill a 10 l bucket with a mullein, take 2 ash shovels, 2 kg yeast, 3 l whey and a bucket of nettles (10 l). Add all of this to the barrel and fill with water. Let it brew for 2 weeks. Dilute the resulting composition with water in a ratio of 1:10 and water the plants under the root 1 time in 7-10 days.

During fruiting, tomatoes need enhanced fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

As a supplement, we present universal recipes for feeding for the entire season:

• dissolve in 10 liters of water 0.5 liters of liquid mullein and 1 tbsp. nitrophosphate (under each bush, add 0.5 liters of solution);
• to 10 liters of water, add 0.5 liters of chicken manure, 1 tbsp. superphosphate, as well as 1 tsp. potassium sulfate. Water each bush with 0.5-1 l of the composition;
• 1 tbsp potassium humate and 1 tbsp. Dissolve nitrophosphate in 10 liters of water. Water the garden at the rate of 5 liters per square meter;
• add 1 tablespoon to a 10 liter bucket. superphosphate. Water the tomatoes at the rate of 10 liters of mixture per 1 square meter of garden.

Watering tomatoes - important information

It is impossible to count on a rich harvest of tomatoes without proper watering. Tomatoes do not tolerate high humidity. Therefore, they need to be watered only at the root and in such a way that water does not get on the leaves.

Watering mode:

• after planting seedlings in the ground it is watered at the rate of 1-2 liters per plant and left alone for 2-3 days;
• during growth tomatoes are watered 1-2 times a week at the rate of about 2-3 liters of water per one undersized bush, gradually increasing the amount of water to 10 liters. The intensity of watering is selected depending on the reaction of the plants (if the leaves are drooping, then it is time for watering).

For an adult bush, spend from 5 to 10 liters of water

It is better to water the tomatoes in the early morning at the root, and slightly loosen the soil after its top layer dries out.

It is better to water tomatoes with settled warm water.

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Now you know exactly how to get a bountiful harvest of healthy and tasty tomatoes. Remember that tomatoes need constant attention and care, so watch them - and the plants themselves will tell you what they are missing.