Is it possible to grow strawberries at home in winter?

Growing strawberries in the winter at home is easy enough. The main disadvantage of this method is the small amount of harvest. The essence of the method is that strawberries are planted as a houseplant.

Basic rules for growing strawberries in winter

Full development and fruiting of strawberries is impossible without lighting for 12-14 hours.

The main condition for planting is to provide warmth and sufficient illumination. Availability fourteen hour daylight hours strictly required.

Fruiting occurs in June and the first half of July, when the temperature fluctuates between 22-27 degrees... This should be taken into account when growing strawberries at home.

Planting methods

You can grow strawberries in the following ways:

1. Packaged.
2. Potted.
3. Boxed.

If the crop is planted for sale, the latter method should be used. This will require several spacious drawers. They can be replaced with bags made of polyethylene.

A significant disadvantage of this method is that they take up a large amount of apartment space. This method cannot be used in a small apartment.

If the berry is planted for yourself, then it is recommended to use flower pots. It will not work to achieve high yields. The main advantage of this method is easy care.

Air and temperature

To circulate air around the strawberries, it is enough to periodically open the window.

This culture needs good air circulation... It is possible to provide her with access to air by opening a window in a vent mode from time to time.

The air temperature in the apartment in winter varies between 18-20 degrees.

This temperature is good for growing strawberries. If it rises, you can open the window slightly, allowing the plant to circulate air.

What soil to choose

The best option is to use a mixture of perlite and peat.

This soil is sold in specialized boutiques. It can be replaced with a fertilizer mixture. But its quality is noticeably inferior to the previous mixture.

Ready seedlings

You can buy ready-made seedlings; working with them does not require much time.The main disadvantage is that it will be more expensive.

Self-planting from seeds is a rather tedious method, but it does not require special monetary "infusions".

Which variety to choose for growing at home

You can grow any strawberries at home, but repair varieties will give the best result.

Homemade strawberries are conventionally subdivided into ampel and bush... Fruiting can be one-time or remontant. In the second case, the culture will delight with fruits throughout the year.

The fruits of the remontant varieties differ in shape, color and taste.

For growing at home, it is recommended to opt for remontant varieties. They are less dependent on light.

The following varieties are best suited for growing in an apartment:

• Queen Elizabeth;
• Homemade delicacy;
• Geneva.

A brief overview of the most suitable strawberry varieties for growing at home.

Shrub or ampelous variety?

Between bush and ampel varieties, it is best to make a choice in favor of the latter. No bright lighting required. The first berries appear already 2 months later.

Preparatory work and soil selection

It is advisable to purchase the substrate in a specialized boutique. The choice should be made in favor of a universal soil suitable for planting vegetables and fruits.

You can make your own formula if you want.

If possible, you can prepare the soil yourself. To do this, you will need to mix:

1. Sand.
2. Forest soil.
3. Humus.

The main criterion for the soil is looseness and moisture. Not only the condition of the seedlings depends on this, but also the yield of strawberries.

Peculiarities

To grow healthy strawberries, the soil must be steamed or calcined.

• Covering the substrate with a crust is unacceptable... Otherwise, air access to the root system will be blocked.
• You can not take soil from vegetable gardensas it can be affected by a nematode. But if you have to work with just such a land, you need to carefully cultivate it.
• The soil needs careful steaming... This contributes to the death of all parasites. Then you need to shed the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Flower planting

Pots of any shape are suitable for strawberries, the main thing is that the dimensions are not less than 100x150 mm.

This method requires the following elements:

1. A pot with a diameter of 10 centimeters and a height of 15 centimeters.
2. Prepared soil.
3. Vitamin complex.
4. Small pebbles of lime.
5. Scoop.
6. Water.

Landing

Seedlings with three or more leaves can be planted in separate pots.

1. Pour pebbles into a flower pot, then soil.
2. Make a well for seedlings.
3. Stick the seedling into the soil, sprinkle with earth.

Watering and care

After 1.5 months, the first buds should appear.

• Water the plant as it dries.
• The strawberry pot should be on the window.
• Access to light should be maximized.

Drafts must not be allowed.

With good care, the first berries will soon appear.

Yield

Small. From 1 bush you can get up to 200 grams.

The main advantage of this method is year-round fruiting.

Planting with a polyethylene method

When choosing this method of planting strawberries, you should consider irrigation systems using drip pipes.

You can plant culture on a loggia or balcony. It is best to use the Dutch planting method. It may require the following:

1. Suitable container made of polyethylene.
2. Perlite composition + steamed peat.
3. Organic soil.
4. Synthetic elements.
5. Watering can.
6. Scoop.

It is best to use a soil substitute.

It is better to use a mixture based on perlite or vermiculite for filling the bags.

Training

Taken polyethylene with a diameter of 20 centimeters... Holes are cut in it in a checkerboard pattern.

Landing

• The distance between the bushes is up to 35 centimeters.You should not plant the bushes closer, otherwise the fruits will be small.
• The bags are filled with soil, vitamins are added.
• The angular rate of planting bushes is 50%.

Watering

To maintain optimal soil moisture, it is better to use drip irrigation.

The culture is irrigated as it dries. It is very important to monitor the moisture of the root system.

Water should not get on the strawberry flowers.

Care

Making an irrigation system at home is quite simple. To do this, you need to use a container with a hose. The diameter of the hose should be 1 centimeter.

Such a hose must be brought to each bush and water the crop.

Lighting

For additional lighting, homemade lamps are used.

If there is not enough light for the plant, lamps can be used. If the house has a heater, the growing process will only accelerate.

It is necessary to pollinate the culture in the process of fruit formation.

Pollination

For pollination, use a soft brush or fan.

This can be done either manually or with a fan.... In the second case, the jet is simply directed towards the pots. It is advisable to do this in the morning.

For the first method, you will need a soft paint brush. This is a rather painstaking process that takes time. But its effectiveness is very high.

Feeding strawberries

For feeding, it is convenient to use instant complex fertilizers.

Replenishment of bushes should be carried out at least 2 times / 30 days... For replenishment, special fertilizers are used, which are sold in specialized boutiques. It is advisable to use a universal top dressing.

Overfeeding should not be allowed. Otherwise, all the vitamins will receive the leaves, and the berries will not ripen.

Mustache care

In the process of active growth of strawberries, tendrils are formed. They need to be tied up. To do this, a nylon mesh should be built on the window.

With the help of antennae, you can propagate the culture and get new seedlings.

To propagate strawberries, you need to root the outlet. Then it is separated from the uterine bush.

Treatment of diseases

Horsetail infusion is well suited for the prevention of strawberry diseases.

The most common pathologies of domestic strawberries are gray rot and spider mites.

Fruits and leaves are affected by a specific bloom. The leaves fall off, the berry becomes loose, tasteless.

To get rid of diseases, you need to prepare a garlic solution. This requires:

• peel 2 cloves;
• crush them in a garlic press;
• pour boiling water over, leave for 20-30 minutes.

After cooling, the infusion is filtered and used when spraying plants.

Conclusion

You need to plant strawberries either in early spring or in the second half of August - September. With the right approach, it will delight you with its fruits for a long time.

Video about artificial pollination of homemade strawberries

At the present time, year-round cultivation of strawberries at home with developed technologies and the presence of a rich selection of varieties, especially remontant ones, that yield a harvest throughout the growing season is quite possible. By combining growing plants in the warm summer season on the balcony, and the cold winter in the room, you can pick strawberries all year round at home, without bothering yourself with trips to the hypermarket or trips to the garden area.

This is not to say that this is a simple occupation. Forcing strawberries within a year using modern technology, which has received the name "Dutch" in Russia, requires daily work and quite tangible financial costs associated at the initial stage - with investments in equipping a house for a place and containers for growing it, and in the future - for purchasing and renewal of the substrate, purchase of fertilizers, renewal of varieties (purchase of seeds or seedlings) and electricity spent on artificial lighting and the operation of electric pumps supplying nutrient solutions to the roots of plants.

To this should be added the need for watering, feeding, trimming "whiskers", artificial pollination and periodic replacement of fertile plants. In order to save money, you can grow seedlings at home yourself from seeds, but this also takes time and some effort.

In terms of financial and labor costs, such a hobby can be compared to maintaining two or three aquariums with ornamental fish with a volume of 100-300 liters at home.

If desired and the skills of working with tools, you can automate the process of irrigation and dosed artificial lighting to the utmost by assembling simple structures.

Where to begin?

With an estimate of the area of ​​the balcony and living quarters of the house in which you plan to grow berries all year round. In articles devoted to the organization of space for growing various berry and vegetable crops on the balcony, we described in some detail the methods of planting plants: both in horizontal and vertical containers. The undisputed leader in saving space at home is the vertical placement of plants.

The substrate can be filled both in elongated polyethylene bags (preferably made of dense black polyethylene film, and large-diameter plumbing pipes with holes cut in them. If it is decorated with a beautiful coating (polyethylene film, "hammer" enamel or other materials), then it will not spoil the design of the apartment, but will organically fit as an element of landscaping.

If the area of ​​the balcony and the room allows (they should be approximately the same), which you plan to occupy with containers for growing strawberries all year round, then it is advisable to place a "life support" system in the same area in combination with containers, which will allow you not to worry about timely watering or turning on the lights.

Substrate

Forcing strawberries at home all year round usually does not involve the use of land (especially garden) as such. Instead, at home, either coconut fiber is used in a mixture with peat and perlite, or peat with the addition of expanded clay sand (fine fraction) and perlite (vermiculite). This is due to the weight of the substrate. The containers filled with peat and perlite are several times lighter than those filled with garden soil. It is more convenient to move them. The second reason for the use of artificial substrates is their "sterility". You do not run the risk of bringing strawberry pathogens or pest larvae with the ground. In the middle of winter, you will not have mosquitoes or midges hatched from the garden soil, and two-tails or caterpillars will not start running on the floor.

Another plus is the almost complete absence of dirt, which is inevitably washed out from the drainage holes after watering the plants. There will be no peculiar smell of damp soil at home. At any time of the year you will be able to compose a well-known composition of the substrate elements, which will be most suitable for plant growth, and renew the containers for planting new plants with it.

Most suitable varieties

For growing strawberries all year round in a balcony or room, at home, remontant and ampel varieties are most suitable. There is no need to grow tall, sturdy plants that give upright flower stalks in balcony conditions. In any case, the berries will not touch the surface of the earth, and therefore will be amazed by all kinds of "rot" that nest in moist soil and will always be clean and elegant.

Ampel varieties at home are convenient in that they will completely overlap the container in which strawberries are grown with their hanging down lashes. And remontant varieties will provide you with an uninterrupted harvest.Modern breeding varieties also include curly varieties of strawberries, which are independently capable of clinging to a support and growing upward, like a liana, forming a dense green curtain. But growing them on the balcony of a house is possible only during the summer season, since it is very problematic to move the plant into the room without damaging the shoots, and then equip the trellis in the apartment or pull the twines on which the plant's lashes could settle.

If everything is clear enough with the planting of the first batch of plants, then the subsequent replacement of fertile plants requires explanations. It is recommended to replace the plant once a year. In order not to completely bare the container in which the strawberry grows, and not to wait for the growth of seedlings, its flowering and fruiting phase, it is advisable to have plants of different planting dates in one container. Initially, it will be enough to plant seedlings at intervals of 6 months (in spring and autumn), and next year replace 1/3 of the plants with new ones. Weakly fruiting plants or those that have formed a small number of ovaries should be replaced.

In no case should you allow re-grading within the same container. And the close location of various varieties on the balcony can lead to unintentional over-pollination and degradation of the variety.

When growing 2-3 varieties at home, try to isolate them from each other as much as possible, especially on the balcony, when pollination can occur naturally - either by wind or by insects.

Fertilizer use

No plant can survive all year round on artificial substrates without an influx of nutrients necessary for leaf growth and fruit formation. Therefore, growing strawberries at home, year-round, requires constant use of organic and mineral fertilizers.

Taking as a basis the ready-made fertilizer mixtures "For strawberries and strawberries" or "For berry crops" initially, during the period of intensive growth and before flowering, they should be applied according to the manufacturer's recommendations (on the package).

During the period of formation and ripening of fruits, their number should be reduced as much as possible against the technical standards that are recommended.

In the container, there is no intensive leaching of fertilizers by rains or, after irrigation, they do not seep into the groundwater. When organizing drip irrigation, almost all moisture supplied to the container is absorbed by the roots. Consequently, the applied fertilizers are also absorbed. Therefore, there is no need to add the recommended 5-10 grams per 1m2.

Strawberry care

The main care for plants will be regular pruning of the "mustache" - if it is not an ampelous variety and not a remontant, forming fruits on young mustaches, as well as periodic pollination during the entire growing season. Pollination can be done either with a fan (cold hair dryer) or with a soft kolinsky (squirrel) artistic brush.

Use different brushes to pollinate different varieties of strawberries and never mix them up or store them nearby. Pollination with a brush is a laborious process that requires attention and time, but gives better results than using a fan or hair dryer.

Be sure to spray the plants from a spray bottle at least once a day, because on the balcony - due to intensive air circulation and at home - due to the action of heating devices, the air is extremely dry, and this negatively affects the plants.

Organization of lighting

If there is no problem with a lack of lighting on the balcony in the summer months, then in the conditions of growing strawberries all year round in winter, additional artificial lighting is required. The most optimal is the use of LED lamps with a balanced emission spectrum. As a last resort, you can use fluorescent lamps "daylight" in combination 1- "cold" + 2 "warm" light.

To prevent the red-blue radiation of the LEDs from annoying, the plants should be fenced off with a screen made of foil-clad material (thermal insulation sold in hardware stores) or crumpled food foil glued to sheets of cardboard or fiberboard. This will distribute the lighting more evenly and increase its efficiency up to 50% of the light source's power.

Additional lighting during the period when plants are in the room should be 12-14 hours. You can automate the turn-on process by connecting the lighting device to the simplest Chinese timer, costing 200-300 rubles.

Organization of watering

If you use a vertical planting system, then it is advisable to use a drip irrigation system - either by placing a container with a nutrient solution (water) above the level of the container in which strawberries are grown and ensuring the solution flows through the tubes from a medical "dropper", or initially put into the structure a tube located in the middle of the container and having a bottom (plug) and many small holes d-1 mm. along the entire length of the tube through which watering is carried out.

In "advanced" irrigation systems, you can use a micro-pump for garden fountains or aquariums, which will pump a strictly defined volume of liquid, sufficient to moisten the soil. It can also be connected to a timer. Once every two weeks, instead of water, use a solution of mineral fertilizers for irrigation.

Let's summarize

The process of growing strawberries all year round is permanent. It does not allow you to “forget” or postpone any of the listed manipulations. However, this is the lot of any agricultural production - work all year round without days off and holidays.

We are looking forward to the onset of May to enjoy the most delicious, perhaps, berry -

strawberries

... It has already become customary for us to receive harvests from spring to late autumn, but sometimes we really want to taste the sweetness of our favorite berry on a cold winter day!

How to grow garden strawberries at home Alternatively, you can, of course, purchase a pack of strawberries for the price of gold in a supermarket. But the doubts that this berry will be useful are very large - the thought of the presence of chemistry that our body does not need at all leaves less doubt. I suggest another option: grow garden strawberries by the window and give yourself and your children a piece of summer in the middle of winter.

Is it possible to harvest garden strawberries in the room?

In this case, I really like the saying, which I am often grateful to in my life: "If you really want to, you can fly into space." So with a strong desire, guided by these recommendations, you can get wonderful sweet berries at any time of the year.

This requires:

• high-quality live (not frigo!) seedlings of varieties of neutral daylight hours (hereinafter NSD), which we get from the first row of whiskers;
• lamps (better phytolamps) for supplementary lighting of plants;
• place on the windowsill;
• This article.

How to “move” strawberries from the garden to the house?

In any case, you should start preparing seedlings for home growing long before the onset of winter.

Option 1

1. When the strawberry bushes form a mustache, fill a container with a drainage hole (for example, a disposable glass or a soft plastic pot) with earth and sand in a 1: 1 ratio.
2. We dig it in level with the ground (but so that the edges of the container rise slightly), direct the first outlet into the container, pin it with an ordinary hairpin or wire bent in the form of a hairpin, and water it constantly. The earth should never dry up, otherwise the plant will quickly die.
3. After 3 weeks, when the young plant has taken root, we cut it off from the mother liquor and continue to water. At this point, watering is even more important; he should be at least once a day, it is better in the evening, and on hot sunny days you can water it 2 times - in the morning and in the evening.
4. As soon as buds are formed on the plant, they must remove so that the outlet gains maximum strength. 
5. Cups with seedlings we we leave in the ground before the onset of the first frost, and as soon as it froze, we take them out of the ground, fill the resulting holes with earth and slightly compact them.
6. We completely immerse the containers with plants in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, let the water drain, and bring them into a room with a temperature not higher than + 10 ° C for 2-3 days. Then we bring the sockets into the room and put to the south window. 
7. Additional lighting is required, since the length of the day is too short. The plant will need additional lighting from 6-7 in the morning until 19-20 in the evening, that is, the daylight hours for the plant should be 13-14 hours. For this we use a phytolamp.

Backlight

Option 2

This method is much simpler and less laborious.

1. Before the onset of frost, we dig out the rooted young rosettes, remove the substandard foliage (that is, the leaves that are mechanically damaged, old ones), but so that the plant has 2-3 true young leaves.

Left: garden strawberry seedling. Right: aging in potassium permanganate 2. Next, we keep the seedling in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) and plant in a container with ready-made soil mixture purchased at a flower shop and mixed with sand in a ratio of 2: 1.

Why a purchased soil mixture? This is more reliable: the garden soil must be heated in the oven to destroy pests and pathogens, and the finished soil is sterile (of course, if we talk about high-quality purchased soil).

Planting strawberries 3. It is very important when planting not to deepen the heart (apical bud), which is located in the center of the rosette, otherwise the plant will simply rot.

Heart 4. Water the seedlings and bring them into the room, but for the first few days do not put them on the sunny south window, but set them in more benign conditions (north, east). After 3-5 days, we rearrange it to the south. Just as in option 1, we must use additional lighting.

Which strawberry varieties are suitable for home growing?

Experimental practice, which I described earlier in my article, has shown that the NSD ‘Albion’ and ‘Aisha’ varieties are the easiest to care for and the most resistant to diseases in indoor conditions.

The ‘Albion’ variety I told you more about these and other varieties of garden strawberries in this article.

What conditions need to be created for plants to grow and bear fruit at home?

1. Lighting

As I already said, we need a phytolamp for daily supplementary lighting for 13-14 hours a day. If we neglect this point, then a well leafy plant will grow, but in this case we will not see flowering (and harvest).

Why phytolamp? You can, of course, supplement the illumination with an ordinary fluorescent lamp, but the plants in this case will be weaker. Article Choosing a phytolamp for seedlings

2. Temperature conditions

The temperature on the windowsill should be at least + 20 ° С. It is on the windowsillrather than in the room. If the temperature is not observed, then our plants can weaken and get sick with fungal diseases.

3. Watering

It is important to choose the watering mode so that so that the earthy ball does not dry out, but in any case do not allow stagnation of water.

4. Mandatory transshipment of plants

In 25-30 days after "relocation" to the house, the plants need to be transplanted into a large container (1 liter in volume), since the root system has already developed greatly, and the outlet has become cramped in a small glass. This is what the plant looks like before transplanting:

... and so - after:

Plant transplanted into a large container

5. Artificial pollination of flowers

Pollination is an important condition for the formation of the ovary and the development of a full-fledged berry.We make it by hand using an ordinary soft brush.

Pollination If this procedure is neglected or not performed well enough, we will get deformed berries:

Deformation of the berry with insufficient pollination

Do you need feeding strawberries?

Like any plant, garden strawberries need nutrition. Under natural conditions, plants get it from the ground in which plant residues have rotted. In a room, in a limited amount of soil, strawberries do not have such an opportunity, therefore, feeding should be taken care of without fail.

1. We apply the first top dressing ("Strawberry" or other complex fertilizer for garden strawberries) at half dose (100 grams of solution during watering), when did the first buds appear. 
2. We carry out the next feeding after the first berries have been removed, with the same fertilizer at the same dosage.

Do not be embarrassed and worried that the berry will accumulate nitrates or other harmful elements in itself, since this fertilizer will go to the plant itself, and not to the berry.

When to expect the first harvest?

Experience shows that in winter in indoor conditions the period from planting to flowering is 30-35 days, and the first berries ripen in 30-35 days from the beginning of flowering. It turns out that from the moment of planting to the ripening of the berries, an average of about 65 days pass.

First harvest Here are our first berries:

Home harvest of ‘Albion’ strawberries

What is indoor strawberry sick with and how to treat it?

If we adhered to all the recommended planting rules, and the houseplants in the house are not affected by pests, then the strawberries are not in danger of suffering from them. But besides pests, there are no less dangerous fungal diseases - such as powdery mildew, for example.

Why might problems arise? The air in the room during the heating period is dry and warm, and we, knowing that it is unhealthy, begin to increase the humidity. This is correct for us, but for garden strawberries, which are not blown by the wind at home, but is under the influence of cold from window glass, high humidity can cause powdery mildew. This is a white fungal bloom on the leaves, stems, and then the berry.

For the prevention of the disease, you can use the drug Fitosporin, which is safe for humans. We spray the plants with it once a week. Of course, white traces form on the leaves, but the plant will be reliably protected.

Garden strawberries It is not difficult to grow garden strawberries on the window, the main thing is to want very much! Good luck and excellent harvests!

To date, strawberries have become one of the fashionable cultures of the windowsill. However, often, once in the house, it stops blooming, and then completely fades, thereby greatly upsetting its owners. What's this? Just cheating? Strawberries can't survive in a room? Or are there secrets that allow a delicious berry to delight with its fruits all year round, even in an apartment? Let's figure it out.

Potted strawberries

Strawberry varieties for growing on the window at home

Firstly, what flower shops offer as strawberries for a window is often an unsuitable option for our climatic conditions. So, for example, large-fruited strawberry Albion. Its appearance is simply impressive: large green leaves, giant mouth-watering berries ... However, this variety absolutely does not tolerate either high temperatures, or cold weather, or lack of moisture, or the slightest excess of it. Therefore, it can be grown only in greenhouse conditions, which cannot be created on the windowsill. So what do you do?

Experienced gardeners recommend not buying beautiful strawberry bushes, alluring with their berries from the windows of flower shops, but taking into the house proven remontant varieties intended for the area in which you live.They are not demanding on the length of daylight hours, they have the potential for year-round fruiting, and the ampelous options also hang beautifully from a suspended planter, delighting with an exotic appearance.

Strawberry, grade "Queen Elizabeth 2"

However, if you are at a loss in making your own choice, take a look at the variety “Homemade delicacy”, “Geneva”, “Queen Elizabeth”. According to fans of window beds, they work best on the windowsill. Some recommend growing strawberries from seeds, but here it is worth thinking carefully, since this process is quite troublesome, takes a lot of time and requires careful adherence to agricultural practices.

Soil for strawberries at home

If you have decided on the variety, proceed with the preparation of the soil in which your strawberry will be planted. For many, the simplest solution is to buy a ready-made universal soil mixture in the store. But you can prepare the substrate yourself. To do this, in equal proportions, it is necessary to mix humus, sand and earth from ephedra. You should not go the simplest way - take land from the garden. Usually it does not have enough friability, and is often infected with diseases, which leads to the rapid death of plants.

Preparation and selection of strawberries for the windowsill

If you decide to plant seedlings taken from your garden in pots, do not rush to plant. Select beautiful full-fledged sockets, without signs of disease, dig them into a small flowerpot and place them in a cold, dark place for two weeks, providing the strawberries with a dormant period. If you want to plant young bushes from layering, then remember that the largest number of flower buds is laid in the sockets formed from the second and fourth tendril buds (the first and third remain dormant in case of damage to the layering). And the further, the less the plant has the potential to yield.

Planting strawberries in a pot

Since strawberries do not like stagnant water, the first thing to start planting with is drainage. At the bottom of the pot, with a volume of at least 3 liters per bush, it is necessary to lay out expanded clay, broken brick or pebbles, into which the remnants of excess water will drain. Then, view the seedlings prepared in advance for the length of the roots. If the root system is too long, it must be shortened. The planted root should fit freely in the pot, without bending in the hole.

After the strawberry is planted, it is watered. Some flower growers and gardeners recommend using growth stimulants when watering, but experience shows that this culture has excellent survival rate without them.

Potted strawberries

Home strawberry care

In order for the strawberries planted in pots to feel good, they must be placed on the sunniest windows. Usually these are windowsills of the southern and southeastern location.

In winter, it is good to organize illumination with daytime lamps for plants to provide 12 hours of full illumination. Maintain temperature around 20 ° C.

Water, feed and spray regularly. Moreover, it is necessary to spray not only with settled water, but also with preparations containing iron, since it is this element, accumulating in the sockets, provokes the greatest laying of the crop.

Strawberries in a flower box

From ovary to berry

If done correctly, the first crop will appear in two months. However, even here you cannot leave strawberries unattended. Unripe berries like to infect spider mites. To destroy the pest, you need to make a tincture of garlic (soak 2 chopped cloves in 100 g of water for 2 hours) and spray the plants.

In addition, many remontant varieties are very fond of giving a mustache, of course you can leave them, for decorative purposes, however, if your goal is berries, then it is better to immediately break out the appearing antennae or cut off with scissors, since they very much pull off nutrients from the mother plant , thereby significantly underestimating the yield.

That's all the tricky advice on how to harvest strawberries on the window.Observing them, you will not only collect ripe berries throughout the year, but also admire your strawberry bushes, since what could be more beautiful than a combination of greenery, white unpretentious flowers and bright berry lights ?!