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I open a topic about raspberries remontant.
It turns out that many people read our forum, but do not want to register yet ... For me it was a revelation. At the request of one of these guests, I want to talk about remontant raspberries. Who has what to say? Do you have experience? What is the impression?
As for me, I don't grow raspberries at all - I still can't find a place for her on my site. On the one hand, I want to, on the other - it injects ...
As I understand it, the main advantage of the remontant raspberry is specifically FOR ME - that you do not need to bother with bending it down, a garter for the winter and other troubles in preparation for wintering.
Since the remontant raspberry bears fruit on the shoots of the first year, in the fall it is cut at the root and covered.
But what are the other advantages of the remontant for our belt - I don't know
As I understood, in our conditions it is difficult to expect a second wave of berries - it simply will not have time - the nights become cold early. As for the yield - probably, the remontant will give a poorer harvest than the usual one ... And, according to reviews, it tastes less sweet than the usual one. Although, it is attracted by the fact that it bears fruit just at the time when the usual one no longer has berries.
By the way, you also need to choose the right varieties so that the berries have time to ripen at all. I have heard good reviews about such varieties as Hercules, Penguin, Beglyanka, Bryansk Divo, Mulatka. But are they suitable for us in terms of regionalization?
Work in April
In the flower garden
On melted snow, apply mineral fertilizer to the spread.
Free perennials from winter shelter.
Clear flower beds from plant debris left over from autumn.
A good time for the division of perennials (phlox, delphinium, chrysanthemums ... .. perennial asters). This can be done before the shoots regrowth, so the plant will painlessly transfer division.
Gradually, as the soil thaws, open the roses.
After full disclosure, carry out cosmetic pruning of shrubs, remove plant debris remaining on the ground.
After the final thawing of the earth, it is necessary to raise and fix the roses on the supports.
You can plant dormant lily bulbs, daylilies, roses and other acquired dormant bulbs in the open ground of a flower garden, without green shoots.
In the ground, you can sow the seeds of annuals that are not afraid of frost.
Vegetable perennials
Remove shelter from perennial crops - batum onion, rhubarb, asparagus, sorrel, tarragon. Examine the winter garlic beds. Loosen the soil around the plants, otherwise the plantings will quickly overgrow with weeds. The loosened soil will warm up faster and the plants will grow earlier.
In the garden
Provide drainage for melt water at the site. Before expanding the leaves, along the swollen buds, treat trees and shrubs from pests and diseases. Release the bent raspberry shoots. Tackle strawberries. Remove the winter shelter, remove the brown leaves around the bare root system of the bushes. Where the bushes are sucked into the ground - carefully dig with a pitchfork, freeing the core, when…. The soil around.
Whitewashing tree trunks preferably done in autumn. If the whitewash was left for the spring, then it should be carried out as early as possible, until the bright sun burns the trunks. Lime milk is suitable for whitewashing.
Pruning trees should be carried out when the sap flow has not yet begun. It is necessary to cut off on a frost-free day. Sections should be covered with garden pitch. It is also necessary to smear cleaned wounds, cracks, burns with varnish.
Black currant
Black currant loves moisture and good nutrition.For the growth of a currant bush, a weed-free area (at least 1m2) is needed, on which there will be no lawn grass, no vegetable or flower plants. During dry periods, it should be watered regularly at the rate of 1.5-2 buckets per bush. If the planting pit for currants was initially well filled with the necessary fertilizers (in the hole they mix a little dark soil taken out of the pit with compost, rotted manure or peat, add ash, mineral fertilizers in recommended doses), then in the first 2 years additional nutrition will not be required for the plants. But starting from the third year of planting, fertilizers must be applied to the soil every year. The main part is brought in in autumn or early spring. They do this before loosening: 4-5 kg of humus or compost and 40 g of mineral fertilizers are applied under each bush. Root top dressing is done in early spring. To do this, use manure diluted with water (1: 8), or bird droppings (1:10), or an infusion of herbs. Water (2 buckets per bush) along the grooves, which immediately fall asleep. Black currant bears fruit mainly on the growths of the previous season. Black currant pruning is carried out to form the bush, its constant rejuvenation and regulation of the yield. A young currant seedling is a bush with two to four branches. When planting, cut it so that only 3-4 well-developed buds remain on each branch. The next year, from among the strongest, the so-called "zero" Shoots that have emerged from the soil, leave 3-4, remove the rest. Every year it is necessary to replenish the bush with new branches. In the bush during the full fruiting period, there should be 2-4 branches of each age (from one-year to five-year), that is, 15-20. When pruning, remove all broken, diseased, drying out branches thickening the bush. Starting from the period of full fruiting and later, it is necessary to annually remove 5-6 year old branches that have lost the ability to grow and bear fruit. When pruning, make sure that there are no stumps left. Cut at soil level. Shaping and pruning adjust the lighting of the branches inside the bush.
Currant varieties for our region: "Augusta", "Lydia", "Minusinskaya sweet", "Treasure", "Chernysh", "Shadrikha".
Red Ribes
Pruning red currant and white has some differences. They are associated with the characteristics of growth and fruiting. In red currants, the growth of zero shoots is more restrained. Fruiting occurs mainly on bouquet branches and shortened annual growths. The life span of these fruit formations is 7-8 years. Therefore, the branches are not exposed as quickly as in black currants. The age composition of the branches can also be approached not so harshly. Leave as many zero shoots as the old ones removed. Weak fruit formations grow on short branches (15cm). Therefore, weakening of the growth of the bush should not be allowed.
Red currant varieties for our region: Rosita, Valencia, Ruby Necklace
Gooseberry
Gooseberry prone to the formation of a large number of zero shoots. Therefore, it is necessary to thin them out more carefully by removing the weak, poorly located and thickening the bush. Cut off the tops of the null branches left, which, as a rule, do not ripen. Gooseberries bear fruit on strong growths formed in the previous season and on fruit twigs. The latter retain the ability to bear fruit for 2-4 years.
When planting gooseberries, all branches are cut off shortly, leaving 6-8 buds for each one-year growth. On a biennial gooseberry bush, each annual growth is shortened by half. On the weak, 2 buds are left, on the strong, 4, the very weak are cut out to the base. Next year, from among those that have appeared, leave 3-5 of the strongest and most well-located zero branches. Delete all others. Trim the unripe tops of the branches to healthy wood. In the future, replenish the bush in the same way with new branches. When the plant is fully formed (it should have 3-4 branches of different ages), pay special attention to thinning. Gooseberries cannot stand darkening.The bush quickly stops growing, so it is useful to rejuvenate them some by pruning to transfer to a strong branch. Raspberries. In the first 2-3 years, the raspberry yield is small. In the second year after planting, raspberries are capable of producing several strong shoots (1-2) and some berries. In the third year, there will be more shoots and berries. And the bush completely begins to bear fruit in the fourth year.
Raspberries
Raspberries needs nutritious soil and good lighting. Bushes do not like strong winds, so you should choose a place that will be protected by trees, a house or a fence. Protective objects must not create shadows.
An area with fertile, moderately moist soil is suitable for raspberries. On a small slope of the western, northern or eastern direction, raspberries will feel great.
Before planting on poor soils, it is necessary to apply 10-12 kg of organic fertilizers, 40-45 g / m2 of phosphorus, 25-30 g / m2 of potash. If the soil fertility is medium or high, 8 kg / m2 of border, 35 g / m2 of phosphorus, 20 g / m2 of potash is enough. You can plant raspberries both in spring and autumn. The ordinary method is considered the best when growing raspberries on the site. Planting scheme: 1.5 m leave the distance between the rows and about 60 cm - between the bushes in a row. Before planting, the shoots on the seedling must be cut off so that the raspberry does not waste energy on them, but redirects energy to the roots.
Raspberries need to be watered rarely, but abundantly. Raspberries require several dressings during the growing season. In spring - nitrogen fertilization, during flowering and ripening of berries - phosphorus-potassium, and by the end of the growing season - only phosphorus. This culture is very fond of organic fertilizers, so in the spring it is worth making liquid top dressing from rotted manure or poultry droppings. An excellent top dressing for raspberry bushes is wood ash (2kg / m2). Fruiting raspberry shoots develop for 2 years. In the first year, annual shoots grow from the buds on the rhizome, and in the second year a crop is formed on them, after which the branches die off. Instead of old ones, new ones appear, so you have to constantly cut raspberries. If you grow the bushes in an ordinary way, then for 1 running meter, 40 cm wide, we leave the 8 healthiest young shoots. Pruning and weak ones are cut as short as possible. In the spring, the unripe frozen tops of the stems are cut out to a healthy bud. With good care, raspberries can grow and bear fruit in one place for up to 12 years.
Raspberry remontant
Reparability is the ability of a plant to bear fruit continuously throughout the season. Certain varieties of raspberries bloom almost immediately after harvest. Also, in remontant varieties, both biennial and annual shoots are fruitful. That is, in the first half of summer, berries ripen on last year's shoots, and closer to autumn on those that have grown this year. Such a continuous conveyor of the harvest turns out to be ineffective: the plants are "laid out" at the first harvest, because of which the second is delayed and does not have time to fully ripen before the cold weather.
But it is the second harvest that is more valuable, since in the first half of summer, ordinary raspberries bear fruit and gardeners most often donate the first harvest, growing remontant raspberries as an annual crop. For winter, raspberry stems are cut at the root, new ones begin to grow actively in spring, flowers appear on fruit branches in July, and a full harvest can be harvested in August.
Repaired raspberries are also good because they cause few problems. So, there is no need to worry about her in frosts (the bushes are cut off), to take care of pruning the branches that have borne fruit, about tying up the branches (the bushes of this raspberry are not tall).
Repaired raspberries practically do not get sick and are not affected by pests, together with shoots cut and removed from the site, many pathogens and pests are removed.Many pests that annoy ordinary raspberries in summer, for remontant, developing much later, are simply not dangerous. And since remontant raspberries do not require chemical protection from diseases and pests, their fruits are environmentally friendly.
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Raspberries in September. And in Irkutsk. Now the sweet and summer berry can be seen in the fall. So far, however, only Siberian scientists.
The summer season is almost over. But in this cattery the summer did not seem to be over. Even tiny bushes are strewn with ripe and large, as for selection, berries. Remaining raspberries, rare varieties for Siberia, replaced the usual ones.
- Repaired raspberries differ from the usual ones in that fruiting occurs in late summer, early autumn. The berries themselves are beautiful. We see that they are very large, - says Marina Pushchina, the leading technologist of the greenhouse of the Siberian Institute of Plant Physiology and Biochemistry of the SB RAS.
Extend the season for delicious berries. Irkutsk biologist Maxim Rachenko took up this bold experiment almost 10 years ago. In Europe, such late varieties have been known for about two centuries. In Russia, they began to look closely only in the 70s. It is believed that such raspberries are only suitable for the southern edges. At the Siberian Institute of Plant Physiology and Biochemistry, different varieties have been tried. It turned out that some of them are capable of producing crops even at minus five.
- European varieties are not suitable for us. Because they are late-fruited. They do not have time to form a decent harvest in our conditions. But the Bryansk varieties, they all have time. We are now in the process of selecting varieties suitable for cultivation. In addition, work has begun on the selection of remontant varieties of raspberries suitable for cultivation in our climate,- says the head of the phytotron and greenhouse of the Siberian Institute of Plant Physiology and Biochemistry, SB RAS, Maxim Rachenko.
Another advantage of late raspberries is that they are not susceptible to traditional diseases and pests. They are gone in the fall. It is also unusual that the bushes are not bent down for the winter, but simply cut off.
Surprisingly, this is not the last raspberry harvest. Fresh berries can be harvested for another month.
However, even after the raspberry season will not end. The experiment will continue in greenhouses, where she can harvest all year round.
- Who doesn't love raspberries? For the sake of sweet aromatic berries, almost every gardener starts this culture. I was no exception, and in the very first year of my dacha life I planted several bushes. As you might expect, during the ripening of raspberries, both small and adult family members “grazed” on it, not looking up. It is a pity that the harvest time was fleeting. To prolong the pleasure, I decided to replenish the collection with remontant varieties. I was lucky - a good friend offered to share the planting material. From her, I learned that remontant varieties are different from the usual ones and that they need a completely different pruning.
Two raspberries - two approaches
If the common raspberry bears fruit exclusively on last year's branches, then the remontant is capable of producing a crop on a one-year growth. True, in this case, the berries ripen only by autumn. But, having on the site both ordinary and remontant varieties of this culture, I collect two harvests of delicious berries per season, which indescribably pleases the whole family.
Now I cut it like this. In common raspberries, after harvesting, I remove cleanly only all the branches that have borne fruit. I leave the gains that have grown over the summer. But after harvesting, I completely cut out the remontant plants "to zero".The next spring, young shoots appear on this bare area, among which I leave the most powerful shoots. Gradually I tie them to the trellis, and by autumn they give a bountiful harvest of berries, while not getting sick.
One principle - two harvests?
But recently, another friend has confused my "raspberry case". In her opinion, by pruning remontant varieties in the fall at ground level, I ruin my harvest. After all, such a raspberry can bear fruit not only on young growths, but also on last year's branches. It turns out that at the beginning of summer you can get berries from two-year branches, and by September on annual shoots grown in the same season. But all this in case if the remontant raspberries are cut as usual - only two-year-old branches are removed. But what is right?
Irina Kudrina
Comments agronomist Valentin Chistyakov:
- When remontant varieties first appeared, it was decided to cut them off in the same way as ordinary ones, that is, completely remove two-year-old branches and weak, extra one-year shoots. In this case, the plants bore fruit twice, however, neither of the two harvests amazed the imagination.
But nowadays, experts in berry crops recommend continuous pruning to the soil level after harvesting for remontant raspberries. With this technology, plants are less likely to get sick, and the harvest is given at least once, but more abundant and of high quality.
See also:
- More often or better? What varieties of strawberries to choose →
- How to choose the right raspberry variety →
- A star with character →
