Is it possible to grow plants without soil, if so how?

Content

1 White bloom and mold on the soil of indoor plants
2 Pests in the soil of indoor plants
3 Why do you need a soil moisture sensor for indoor plants?
4 Description of growing indoor flowers without soil
5 Growing plants without soil
6 growing plants without soil
7 White bloom and mold on the soil of indoor plants
8 Pests in the soil of indoor plants
9 Why do you need a soil moisture sensor for indoor plants?
10 Description of growing indoor flowers without soil

Hydroponics is a way to grow plants without soil, in which the plant receives from the solution all the necessary nutrients in the right quantities and exact proportions (which is almost impossible to achieve with soil cultivation).

Hydroponics has great advantages over conventional (soil) growing methods:

The plant always receives the substances it needs in the required quantities, it grows strong and healthy, and much faster than in the soil. At the same time, the yield of fruit and flowering of ornamental plants increases several times.
Plant roots never suffer from drying out or lack of oxygen during waterlogging, which inevitably occurs during soil cultivation.
Since water consumption is easier to control, there is no need to water the plants every day. Depending on the chosen container and growing system, you need to add water much less often - from once every three days to once a month.
There is no problem of lack of fertilizers or their overdose.
Many problems of soil pests and diseases (nematodes, bears, sciarids, fungal diseases, rot, etc.) disappear, which eliminates the use of pesticides.
The process of transplanting perennial plants is greatly facilitated - there is no need to free the roots from old soil and inevitably injure them. You just need to transfer the plant into a large bowl and add the substrate.
There is no need to buy new soil for transplanting, which greatly reduces the cost of growing indoor plants.
Since the plant receives only the elements it needs, it does not accumulate substances harmful to human health that are inevitably present in the soil (heavy metals, toxic organic compounds, radionuclides, excess nitrates, etc.), which is very important for fruit plants.
Well, and finally, there is no need to fiddle with the ground: hands are always clean; hydroponic vessels are lightweight; in the house, on the balcony or in the greenhouse, it is clean and tidy, there are no extraneous odors flying over the sciarid pots, and other unpleasant factors accompanying soil cultivation.

After mastering a few basic concepts, you can grow almost anything and with much less labor costs than on soil. In the case of using automated circulation systems of the solution (some of which are very easy to collect at home), labor costs for watering and feeding plants disappear altogether.

The simplest hydroponic vessel is made in two minutes from an ordinary plastic pot and any suitable larger container (this container must hold a sufficient amount of water, be chemically inert and not let light through). A good example is a paper one-liter juice or milk bag for a long time, laid on its side with a precisely cut (from the seam side) hole for the pot. The pot with the substrate should be immersed in the solution 1–2 centimeters.
Substrate (expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite, mineral wool, coconut fiber, any inert chemical.fiber (threads polypropylene, nylon, nylon, etc.), foam rubber, etc.) costs the same, or much less (depending on what you have at hand) than a portion of the earth of the same volume. But the land, unlike the substrate, must be changed annually during transplantation.
One liter of the final solution is enough for one small (such as a small begonia or fuchsia) plant per year, that is, a jar of concentrate intended for 50 liters of solution is enough for 50 years, or for an annual maintenance of 50 plants.

Plants suitable for hydroponics:
Almost any plant grown from seed or cuttings is suitable. In the case of transplanting mature plants, it is better to give preference to plants with coarse thick roots, which are easy to clean from the ground. It is not recommended to transfer adult plants with a delicate root system to hydroponics.

Soak the earthen ball for several hours in room temperature water. (for example, in a bucket). After that, gently separate the soil under water, and then gently wash the roots with a light stream of water at room temperature. After cleaning the roots of soil residues, straighten them down, and, holding the plant, cover the roots with the substrate (it is not necessary for the plant to touch the roots directly to the water layer - the solution will rise up through the capillaries of the substrate, reaching the roots; later they will sprout to the required depth). After that, pour plain water on top of the substrate, pour the desired level of water into the vessel, and leave the plant for about a week. Only then can the water be replaced with a solution.

Important: do not fill in the solution immediately after transplanting!

Basic concepts:

Solution concentration. Strictly adhere to the solution concentration recommended by the manufacturer. Try to keep the volume of the solution in the hydroponic vessel more or less constant by adding plain (preferably settled) water. Change the solution completely every three months (depending on the manufacturer's recommendation). Some plants (epiphytes, such as bromeliads, orchids and others, for example, insectivorous plants) require a much lower concentration (2-4 times), while for very fast-growing plants (for example, a banana), an increased concentration of about 1.5 times the concentration of the solution. For annual vegetable crops, a concentration of about 1.25 times higher than the average is recommended. In winter, during the dormant period, the concentration should be reduced by about 2–3 times from the usual, and the water level, depending on the severity of the dormant period, should also be reduced to a minimum.
The acidity of the solution (pH). Modern hydroponic formulations are designed so that the pH is about 5.6 (optimal for most plants) and does not deviate much from this value during operation (some plants require different pH values, for example, azaleas and gardenia - more acidic pH = 5, and palms - more alkaline pH = 7). The most accurate pH monitor is an electronic pH meter, but it is expensive and difficult to use. The simplest and most reliable means are acidity tests, produced specifically for aquariums, they are quite accurate, inexpensive, and easy to use (universal test strips are not suitable due to their low accuracy). Reagents for measuring and changing pH are sold at zoological markets and in the aquarium departments of pet stores.

A simple recipe for making a solution:
To prepare one liter of solution, two components are required (a 5 ml syringe sold in every pharmacy is well suited for dosage):

1.67 ml of complex fertilizer "Uniflor Bud" or "Uniflor Growth" (depending on the type of crop - "Bud" is more for fruiting and flowering, and "Growth" - for the growth of green parts of plants) in a liter of water.
Add 2 ml of a 25% solution of calcium nitrate there (to prepare the solution, dilute 250 g of four-water calcium (not potassium!) Nitrate in 1 liter of water). This amount of KS is given for soft (like St. Petersburg or distilled water). The final amount of calcium in this dilution is about 100 mg / l. In the case of hard water, it is recommended to find out (from local water supply companies or sanitary epidemiologists) the calcium concentration per liter of water and add the appropriate amount of KS.
Attention! Do not mix concentrated solutions 1 and 2 before diluting them with water! It is best to use different syringes for solutions 1 and 2, or be sure to flush the syringe before measuring a different solution.

Soil is the usual growing medium for most indoor plants. Florists are well aware of the numerous soil problems resulting from improper plant care that can lead to disease and even death of flowers.

White bloom and mold on the soil of indoor plants

Often a white or yellowish bloom can be seen on the surface of the soil in a flower pot. Many do not attach any importance to this, and completely in vain. The appearance of plaque indicates the presence of a fungal disease or mold. Such plaque not only spoils the appearance of the plant, but can also lead to decay of the plant roots.

White plaque and mold on the ground of indoor plants: photo

The causes of mold:

violation of the watering regime, excessive watering of the plant;
violation of plant conditions (poorly ventilated room, insufficient lighting, high humidity);
improperly selected container for growing a plant (too much soil, which disrupts the natural processes of moisture evaporation).

It is known that mold can grow in any environment. However, it is the room temperature with high air humidity that is favorable for its development.

To prevent the development of mold, it is necessary to ventilate the room more often, maintain cleanliness and periodically disinfect the surfaces of window sills, shelves where flowers are located, plant care equipment and other things.

The following solution is suitable for disinfection: 5 g of a 0.5% solution of copper sulfate per 1 liter of water. If an available insecticide is added to such a solution, it will also be possible to avoid the appearance of some insect pests.

As you know, any disease is easier to prevent, so it is recommended to follow simplemeasures to prevent soil mold:

It is better to water the flowers as needed, giving the earthen person the opportunity to dry out slightly.
For watering, it is recommended to use settled water (water from an aquarium is perfect).
The soil of the plant must be loosened regularly to provide oxygen access to the roots of the plant and to effectively dry out the deep layers of the soil.
You should take a responsible approach to choosing a container for growing a plant. A "growing" pot will not work, it is better to gradually increase the diameter of the pot as the plant grows. Planters with holes in the bottom are preferred. So, excess liquid will not linger in the pot and will not provoke the formation of mold.
When preparing the soil for planting a plant, it is recommended to add a small amount of crushed charcoal or activated carbon, ash. This will not only ensure the looseness of the soil, but also contribute to its disinfection.

Sometimes white bloom on the soil surface can be caused by too hard water for irrigation. Citric acid diluted in a proportion of 1 tsp will help soften such water. per liter of water.
In the fight against mold, various fungicides will help. In critical cases, an emergency plant transplant is necessary with the removal of a part of the root system affected by mold.

Pests in the soil of indoor plants

Mold infecting the soil of indoor plants is not the only problem of concern to flower growers.Often, when growing flowers, you can also encounter insect pests. Some of them affect the soil, harming the plant's root system.

Poor-quality soil and improper care of the plant can become the cause of the appearance of pests. In the fight against insects, special industrial preparations will help, as well as folk remedies, for example, a soap solution or a solution of manganese.

Woodlice. They appear due to excess moisture in the soil. They are dangerous in that they harm the roots of the plant by eating them. When they appear, watering should be reduced. Insects can be removed manually.
White bugs (podura) in the soil of indoor plants. They appear due to high humidity of the earth or air. The way to deal with them is that the top layer of the soil should dry out, after which they will disappear. You can also fight with chemicals: a solution of potassium permanganate, arrows Doctor, Aktara.
Nematodes. Microscopic worms settling on plant roots. Excess moisture in the soil also contributes to their appearance. In the fight against these dangerous pests, anthelmintic drugs such as Decaris can be used. It is better to destroy a heavily affected plant in order to avoid contamination of other plants.
Bulbous root mite. Harm primarily to bulbous plants. They appear due to high humidity. Preventive measures: good drainage, moderate watering. The roots and bulbs affected by the mite are treated with an available systemic insecticide, for example, Aktellik, Aktara.

Why do you need a soil moisture sensor for indoor plants?

Indoor flower soil moisture indicator

It is recommended to use moisture indicators to determine soil moisture. Using this device will help avoid problems associated with over-watering. It is enough just to introduce the indicator into the soil and determine if the plant needs watering.

The use of such devices is especially important for large deep pots, where it is very problematic to determine the state of moisture in the lower layers.

Description of growing indoor flowers without soil

For over 100 years, there has been a method of growing indoor plants that avoids soil-related problems. This is abouthydroponics, i.e. growing plants without soil with the use of substrates replacing the soil (expanded clay, vermiculite, moss, peat, coarse sand, coconut fiber and others) or without them (this method is also called -aeroponics).

Hydroponics: a technology for growing indoor flowers without soil

With this method of cultivation, the necessary plant nutrients are obtained from aqueous solutions. The most common recipe for such a solution is the solution of the German scientist, one of the founders of hydroponics F. Knopp. For hydroponic growing plants at home, you can purchase ready-made hydroponic nutrient solutions.

Growing plants hydroponically is possible if several conditions are met:

free access of air to the root system of the plant;
sufficient air humidity where the roots of the plant are located;
contact of plant roots with nutrient solution.

According to the method of feeding the nutrient solution to the roots of the plant, such methods of hydroponic growing of plants:

one-time filling of a container with a plant with a nutrient solution, with 2/3 of the root system immersed in the solution;
traditional periodic watering of the plant with a solution from above;
adding the solution to the pan of the planter.

For hydroponic growing of plants at home, it is recommended to purchase special containers or use pots of different sizes.

What indoor plants can be grown without soil

For those who are learning the basics of hydroponic cultivation, it is recommended to start with such plants as anthurium, aspidistra, vriezia, begonia, cactus, dieffenbachia, ficus, monstera, nephrolepis, shefflera, tradescantia.

In general, this method can be used to grow absolutely any plant.
In general, growing hydroponic plants is a fairly straightforward process that can help you avoid soil problems.

See also a video on how to create a DIY hydroponics system at home:

Growing plants without soil

The book outlines the basics of modern methods of industrial plant cultivation without soil. Various types of installations are described, recipes for nutrient solutions are introduced, peculiarities of plant care when growing without soil, methods for controlling the chemical composition of a nutrient solution are described in detail.

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Method history

The hydroponics method was based on the study of plant root nutrition. Many scientists have worked hard for decades to find out what the root gets from the soil. It was possible to understand this as a result of experiments on growing plants in water (method of aquatic cultures). Certain mineral salts are dissolved in distilled water, in addition to the salts of that chemical element, the significance of which for the life of plants they want to find out. The plant is grown in this solution in a glass jar. Experiments have shown that the plant develops well only if the salt solution contains potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, sulfur, phosphorus and nitrogen. If potassium is removed from the nutrient solution, the plant stops growing. The root system cannot develop without calcium. The plant needs magnesium and iron to form chlorophyll. Without sulfur and phosphorus, proteins that make up the protoplasm and nucleus are not formed. For a long time it was thought that only these elements are necessary for the normal development of plants. But then it turned out that the plant also needs very small amounts of other elements, which are therefore called microelements. At about the same time in the nineteenth century, the German botanist F. Knop, and in Russia K. A. Timiryazev and D. N. Pryanishnikov developed for scientific purposes a method of plant cultivation in aqueous solutions of inorganic compounds. In 1936, in the USA, Guericke USA tested the cultivation of vegetables in solutions, calling this method hydroponics. The first successful experiments in growing vegetables in solutions without soil in our country were delivered in 1938-1939. Originally, hydroponic plants were grown exclusively in an aquatic environment. But with water culture, the supply of oxygen to the roots turned out to be unsatisfactory, the reaction of the solution was unstable, and individual roots and whole plants died off quickly. Therefore, a purely aquatic plant culture did not find application, but later other methods were developed. Their essence boils down to the fact that the roots of plants are placed in some relatively inert substrate. The substrate and roots are immersed in a solution of all the nutrients necessary for plants. Depending on the substrate used, methods such as Aggregatoponics - when the roots are placed in solid, inert, inorganic substrates - crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay, sand, etc .; Chemoponics - in which the rooted substrate is moss, high moor peat, sawdust and other organic materials inaccessible for direct plant nutrition; Ionitoponics substrate made of ion exchange materials; Aeroponics there is no solid substrate, the roots hang in the air of the darkened chamber.

Hydroponic indoor plant containers

Indoor plants, placed in hydropots - double pots or vessels (one inside the other). The pots must meet some requirements.

The outer container must be water-tight. The inner pot must be slotted or perforated to allow the roots to actively interact with the hydroponic solution. The outer pot must not be transparent. Both pots or vessels should be made of material that does not react with the nutrient solution. Fired ceramic pots made of clay or glazed are better suited for this. In glazed pots, mineral deposits will not show through.

The most suitable shape for the outer pot is spherical, since its volume will be larger than the volume of a regular pot. An inner pot can be made from a regular plastic pot or from a plastic bottle, and hydroponic pots have been available at specialty stores for a long time. At the same time, the outer vessel is completely waterproof, made of various materials and has a beautiful decorative appearance. The inner vessel is usually made of plastic and equipped with a liquid level indicator. This device has marks at three levels - the minimum amount of solution, optimal and maximum. It will be more correct to top up the nutrient solution when the liquid level indicator drops to the minimum point. In this case, it is necessary to add water so much that the float of the liquid level rises to the optimal value. The amount of liquid is brought to the maximum value only in cases where the plants are left without watering for a long time, for example, during holidays.

Substrates

In the hydroponic growing method, inert soil substitutes are used: gravel, vermiculite, perlite, expanded clay, coarse sand, moss, peat. By the name of the substrates used in pure form or mixture, the name of the growing method is given: gravel culture, sand culture, peat culture, etc. Inert substrates are easy to disinfect, do not enter into chemical reactions with mineral salts dissolved in water and provide good air access to the roots. The substrate should have the following properties:

it is easy to pass air and solution, it is well moistened with it; do not enter into a chemical compound with solutes; have a slightly acidic or neutral reaction; do not interfere with the development of the root system and keep the plant in an upright position.

With proper operation, substrates from granite and quartz are used up to 10 years, from expanded clay and perlite 6-10 years, and from vermiculite only 2-3 years.

growing plants without soil

Expanded clay

For growing plants in hydroponics, a substrate of fine expanded clay (0.1 - 0.5 cm) is usually used, since it has the best water-holding capacity. Expanded clay is breathable, water-permeable, moisture-absorbing. The roots in it are well retained and moisturized. The plant planted in expanded clay is not injured, the root collar does not stick out to the surface, and well-branched roots are not damaged and penetrate the entire substrate. Expanded clay in operation does not need to be disinfected often, it is cheap and not harmful to plants. With long-term growing of plants (for 3 - 4 years or more) in expanded clay substrate, it is possible for the accumulation of plant waste products (metabolites) in it, which adversely affect the development of the plant.Therefore, expanded clay must be periodically washed with water or low concentration hydrogen peroxide (3%).

Vermiculite

In hydroponics, burnt vermiculite is used. As a result of firing, it acquires lightness, sterility, unique moisture capacity and durability of use. Fraction size is very important. The optimum for the cultivation of perennial and annual crops is 0.5 - 2 cm. In a substrate with finer fractions, aeration is difficult, and it is more suitable for sowing seeds, picking seedlings, rooting cuttings, or as a ripper for soil mixtures. Burnt vermiculite is sterile (firing at high temperatures ). During firing, the mineral swells, its plates increase several times. They take the form of "accordions" with a large number of air cavities. The substrate holds the amount of water 5-6 times its own weight. At the same time, it easily absorbs and also easily gives it to plants. The very high air capacity contributes to the powerful development of the root system of plants. Due to the mass of through slit pores, water or nutrient solution freely passes through the substrate plates (from pore to pore), while the particles remain in place. This does not happen, for example, in expanded clay. Its granules often float, tearing the root hairs of plants.

Peat

Peat is a good substrate. The most suitable is sphagnum peat of raised bogs, almost undecomposed, with a normal ash content (no more than 12%). The relative humidity of peat should be within 60 - 65%. Dryer peat is less wetted. High ash peat can be used only as a fertilizer, but not as a substrate. The relative humidity of peat should be in the range of 60-65%, drier peat is less wetted when watering plants. High-moor peat has a rather high acidity, therefore, before use, the peat substrate is neutralized with chalk or dolomite flour.

Sand

The sand should be used as coarse-grained, quartz. Before use, it is washed several times (until the flowing water becomes clear). It is mainly suitable for hydroponic cultivation of succulents and other plants when irrigated from above, as well as for rooting cuttings. There are substrates made of granular polyethylene or glass. Of great interest are studies with substrates made of ion-exchange materials, which can be charged with ions of substances necessary for plants that can pass into solution as they are absorbed by the roots.

The main methods of growing on hydroponic culture

1. A nutrient solution is poured into a container or a special pot and the root system of the plant is placed in it. As the solution evaporates, water is added, and at certain intervals the solution is completely replaced with fresh one, since over time an imbalance in the proportions of nutrients occurs in the solution. A significant disadvantage of this method is that the supply of oxygen to the roots is difficult, and this is not tolerated by all plants. 2. For another method, two pots are used, one larger than the other. The roots of the plant are placed in a smaller pot with many small holes and covered with gravel, expanded clay or other material. Then this pot is placed in a larger volume and the nutrient solution is poured, while the roots should be immersed in the solution by no more than 2/3. If it is necessary to replace the nutrient solution, take out the inner pot with the plant and allow the water to drain. The outer pot is washed and after placing the pot with the plant in it again, a fresh solution is poured. Among flower growers, the most popular is the second version of the hydroponic culture technique.

Nutrient solutions and their preparation

Nutrient solutions are prepared by dissolving chemical salts in water that contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium, sulfur, manganese (i.e.macroelements), as well as boron, copper, zinc and other trace elements necessary for development. The nutrient solution should contain all the elements in ratios that do not exceed the rate of their consumption by plants. Plants absorb nutrients better from dilute solutions; more than the optimum concentration, plants can die. The concentration of the nutrient solution can increase due to the fact that plants absorb water faster by the roots than dissolved mineral salts in it. In addition, the water partially evaporates, and this also leads to an increase in the concentration of the nutrient solution. It is especially important to monitor the nutrient solution in summer, when the evaporation of water in the vessels increases. It is necessary that the nutrient solution in the outer vessel is always at the same level, that is, it is filled up to half of its volume. When the solution becomes smaller, it is added with water to its original volume: in summer it is usually added after 2-3 days, in winter less often. To prepare the solution, salt is taken in certain proportions. The concentration of the nutrient solution should be in the range of 1-5 g of mineral salt per 1 liter of water. Plants react differently to the concentration of an aqueous solution of mineral salts. If it is higher than 13.5 g per 1 l of water, a number of plant species are inhibited, at lower concentrations of 1.5-2.5 g per 1 l, the same species develop normally. The concentration of the solution is 0.5-0.6 g per 1 liter of water, which inhibits the growth and development of plants. In winter conditions in cold rooms, plants in a dormant period should be given a nutrient solution of a reduced concentration - 50% of the norm. Dry salts are stored (each separately) in a glass buried container. For iron salts, it is necessary to take a dark glass dish and store it dry. The water for preparing nutrient solutions should be clean, soft, and free of impurities. Distilled water is the best. If it is impossible to purchase distilled water, you can use rainwater or water additionally purified using household filters. To soften hard water, special filter cartridges and water softener tablets (so-called pH tablets) are produced. You can also soften hard water with peat. For this, peat at the rate of 700 g per 10 liters of water in a net is placed in a container with water and left for 10-12 hours, for example, overnight. Water filtered from peat chips in the morning can be used to prepare a nutrient solution or to water plants. Each salt must be dissolved separately, in a small enamel or glass container, and then poured into a common vessel for the nutrient solution. Salts must be dissolved, strictly adhering to the order in which they are prescribed in the recipe for the nutrient mixture. Violation of this rule can lead to the precipitation of their undissolved salts at the bottom of the vessel. macronutrients, i.e. elements necessary for the plant in large quantities. Magnesium sulfate is dissolved in a small amount of water and, after it has dissolved, it is poured into a common vessel, into which a small amount of water was previously poured. Then ammonium and potassium nitrate are also dissolved, followed by potassium chloride, and finally ammonium phosphate. These salts are also dissolved separately in a small amount of water and poured into the same vessel. After pouring in the next solution, the salts are thoroughly mixed. Having mixed well the general solution, add to it trace elements... They are also dissolved in a certain sequence in a separate glass container in a small amount of water. First, boric acid is dissolved, preliminarily for its better dissolution by acidifying the water with sulfuric acid (1-2 drops per 1 liter of water). After mixing well and making sure that it is completely dissolved, the salts of zinc, iron, molybdenum and copper are added successively, dissolving each separately in a small amount of water. After adding the next salt, the solution is mixed well. Then the solution of trace elements, with constant stirring, is poured into a vessel with a solution of macronutrients. The solution prepared in this way is ready for use. The reaction of the solution is of great importance for the normal growth and development of plants.The nutrient solution for plants grown without soil, depending on the crop, should have a pH of 5.5-7.0. A shift in the reaction of the solution to the alkaline side (Ph above 7) negatively affects the plants; in such a solution, the salts of iron, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus and manganese pass into insoluble compounds that are not assimilated by plants. Sometimes changes in the composition and concentration of the solution are insignificant, but they can still adversely affect the development of plants, therefore it is necessary to periodically determine the acidity of the solution. The ready-to-use solution can be stored in a sealed container for 2-3 months. The nutrient solution, ready to use, should have a temperature that is the same as the temperature of the air in the room in which the plants grow. Correctly prepared solutions work for a long time. The solution is changed after 30-40 days, depending on the type of plant. The amount of nutrient salts in the solution depends on the plants' need for them: in winter, potassium should prevail, in the spring-summer period, nitrogen. In case of deterioration of the solution, it must be replaced with a fresh one, having probed the substrate, reservoirs and plant roots with a small amount of potassium permanganate diluted in pure water ( Pink colour).

The composition of the nutritional mixture according to Gerikka (g / 1 l of water)

Modern technology: hydroponics

Home hydroponics

Hydroponics is a method of growing plants without soil that is quite suitable for home use. The plant receives from a special solution all the necessary nutrients in the right quantities and in precise proportions.

There are three main methods of growing plants on nutrient solutions: aquatic culture - hydroponics itself; aerial culture - aeroponics.

Benefits of hydroponics

Home hydroponics has a number of advantages over conventional (soil) growing methods. This technology is simple and affordable - after mastering a few basic concepts, you can grow almost any plant with much less labor costs than on soil.

In the case of using automated circulation systems of the solution (they are very easy to collect at home), labor costs for watering and feeding the plants are not required at all. Since a hydroponically grown plant always gets the nutrients it needs in the required quantities, it grows strong and healthy and much faster than in the soil, and its roots never suffer from drying out or lack of oxygen when waterlogged, which inevitably occurs with soil cultivation. Since the water flow is easier to control with the hydroponic method, there is no need to water the plants frequently.

You can safely go on vacation without fear that upon arrival you will find your pets dry or suffering from a lack of moisture.

Depending on the selected container and growing system, you only need to add water to the system at regular intervals. In addition, your plants will never suffer from a lack of fertilizers or their overdose. Another nice feature of home hydroponics is that you do not have to deal with many soil pests and diseases (nematodes, bears, sciarids, fungal diseases, rot, etc.).

Well, and finally, there is no need to replant the plant, which greatly reduces the cost and simplifies the growing process. In the room where plants are kept in hydroponics, it is always clean and tidy, there are no sciarids flying over the pots and other unpleasant factors accompanying soil cultivation.

In modern hydroponic systems, only plastics are used, with the exception of some elements made of bronze. Even the pumps are epoxy coated.

The use of materials of this type together with neutral substrates is the path to success due to the durability and harmlessness to plants and humans.The simplest hydroponic vessel is made in two minutes from an ordinary plastic pot and any suitable larger container (the vessel must hold enough water, be chemically inert and not let in light). on the side with a precisely cut (from the seam side) hole for the pot. The pot with the substrate should be immersed in the solution 1 to 2 cm.

Aqueous solutions for hydroponics

A special solution containing all the compounds necessary for a plant for full development acts as a nutrient medium for plants in hydroponics. Any water suitable for drinking can be taken under the solution.

This primarily applies to rain and distilled water. With regard to waste rainwater, it should be noted: its use is allowed only if the roof is in a satisfactory condition.

Do not collect water from a rusty roof or from a resin-impregnated roof. Store water supplies in a cool, dark place to prevent algae formation.

To provide the root system with oxygen, only a part of the roots is immersed in the nutrient solution. The root collar of the hydroponic plant is fixed with cotton wool or foam rubber on the pot lid so that 1/3 of the roots are in the nutrient solution, and 2/3 of the roots are in the air space (between the solution and the pot lid).

The nutrient solution can be prepared at home or purchased from a flower shop.

Ready-made solutions are sold either in liquid form or in the form of water-soluble tablets. When buying a nutrient solution, pay attention to its purpose - is it really designed for growing hydroponic plants.

A complete replacement of the solution is carried out monthly in the summer and once every 5-8 weeks in the winter. A simple recipe for the preparation of a solution for hydroponics per 1 liter: to 1.67 ml of complex fertilizer "Uniflor Bud" or "Uniflor Grow" (depending on depending on the type of culture) add 2 ml of a 25% solution of calcium nitrate. This amount of nitrate is given for soft (eg distilled) water.

The calcium content in this dilution is about 100 mg / l. If hard water is used, the calcium concentration per liter of water is calculated separately.

Transfer of plants to hydroponics

For growing in home hydroponics, unpretentious plants with large roots are suitable (for example, chlorophytums, many aroids, ivy, asparagus and even some succulents). For transfer to hydroculture, the plant must be prepared in a special way.

It is better if the selected specimen is small in size and not old - this will take root better. On the eve of transplantation, it is watered abundantly or the pot is immersed in a basin of water. After that, the earth is separated under water and the roots are thoroughly washed with a light stream of water at room temperature.

Then they are carefully placed in the inner pot, being careful not to damage and evenly distribute the roots, which go down into the solution through the holes in the base. First, use a diluted (1:10) nutrient solution.

In phytodesign, for decorative purposes, sometimes plants are simply placed in a transparent vessel filled with a nutrient solution (in some cases, tinted with a special dye).

It should be remembered that this method does not provide a long-term existence for most plants, since the roots, deprived of free oxygen, begin to rot. In this way, it is easy to germinate the seeds of some herbs, most bulbous plants, or you can use a similar method for a short-term decorative effect.

Strictly adhere to the solution concentration recommended by the manufacturer.

Try to keep the volume of the solution in the hydroponic vessel more or less constant, adding plain (preferably settled) water as needed. Replace the solution completely about once every three months (depending on the manufacturer's recommendation). If possible, control the pH level in the solution (it should be about 5.6, which is optimal for most plants).

Complete hydraulic systems

If you want to convert your plant to home hydroponics, the most convenient way is to purchase a ready-made hydro system. There are several types of hydro systems designed for growing indoor plants in hydroponics. Modern systems usually consist of two pots.

Thanks to the peculiarities of the hydraulic system, you can easily adjust the "diet" of the plant, providing it with everything necessary for harmonious development. The substrate is an inert substance that, unlike the soil, does not supply any nutrients to the plants - all life support comes from solution. The substrate provides support for the plant in the pot and allows the air and nutrients necessary for plant growth to flow freely.

At the same time, thanks to the substrate, the plants do not "float" in the nutrient solution, which prevents them from rotting. The main difference between fertilizer for hydroponics and fertilizer for soil is that fertilizers for hydroponics contain the correct amounts of all the essential trace elements that are in fertilizer for soil do not include. If one or more trace elements are not present in the soil in the proper amount, the plant does not receive adequate nutrition. Hydroponic fertilizers generally have fewer impurities than soil fertilizers and are much more soluble in water.

Choosing plants for hydroponics

Whether you are looking to purchase ready-made hydroponically grown plants or transfer your "pet" to it, you have little to fear. This method can be considered quite versatile, since most hydroponic plants feel great and pleases the owners with a well-groomed, healthy look.

Some growers believe that home hydroponics is suitable for growing basically all indoor plants, and is best suited for deciduous ornamental crops. But there are exceptions to be aware of.

Plants that form tubers or rhizomes are least suitable for growing in hydroponics, since they rot very quickly if improperly watered (for example, cyclamen). Some plants, such as tall begonia or balsam, will have to be cleaned of wilted flowers or leaves all the time so that they do not get into the nutrient solution.

Plants with very fast roots will need to be repotted frequently (eg Cyperus). Species that require a cool dormant temperature to bloom should also not be grown hydroponically. Hydrangea, clivia, or azalea can react by rotting the roots.

But lovers of cuts will be able to fully appreciate the benefits of hydroponics. In aquatic culture, many columnar and spherical cereus cacti, various prickly pear cacti, leafy peres, epiphytic cacti and the like grow well.

Even if you choose a pot that is large enough when you buy, the roots of the plant may need more space over time. A transplant is necessary if the roots occupy almost the entire vessel, so that there is almost no room for expanded clay in it.

It is recommended to choose a large enough inner vessel from the outset so that the plant does not have to be repotted too often. One and the same expanded clay can be used several times, it is quite simple to wash it properly.

More about hydroponics

White bloom and mold on the soil of indoor plants

White plaque and mold on the ground of indoor plants: photo

The causes of mold:

violation of the watering regime, excessive watering of the plant;
violation of plant conditions (poorly ventilated room, insufficient lighting, high humidity);
improperly selected container for growing a plant (too much soil, which disrupts the natural processes of moisture evaporation).

It is known that mold can grow in any environment. However, it is the room temperature with high air humidity that is favorable for its development.

To prevent the development of mold, it is necessary to ventilate the room more often, maintain cleanliness and periodically disinfect the surfaces of window sills, shelves where

flowers

, inventory for the care of plants and other things.

As you know, any disease is easier to prevent, so it is recommended to follow simple measures to prevent soil mold:

It is better to water the flowers as needed, giving the earthen person the opportunity to dry out slightly.
For watering, it is recommended to use settled water (water from an aquarium is perfect).
The soil of the plant must be loosened regularly to provide oxygen access to the roots of the plant and to effectively dry out the deep layers of the soil.
You should take a responsible approach to choosing a container for growing a plant. A "growing" pot will not work, it is better to gradually increase the diameter of the pot as the plant grows. Planters with holes in the bottom are preferred. So, excess liquid will not linger in the pot and will not provoke the formation of mold.
When preparing the soil for planting a plant, it is recommended to add a small amount of crushed charcoal or activated carbon, ash. This will not only ensure the looseness of the soil, but also contribute to its disinfection.

Sometimes white bloom on the soil surface can be caused by excessively hard water for irrigation. Citric acid diluted in a proportion of 1 tsp will help soften such water. per liter of water. In the fight against mold, various fungicides will help. In critical cases, an emergency plant transplant is necessary with the removal of a part of the root system affected by mold.

Pests in the soil of indoor plants

Mold infecting the soil of indoor plants is not the only problem of concern to flower growers. Often, when growing flowers, you can also encounter insect pests. Some of them infect the soil, harming the plant's root system.

Poor-quality soil and improper care of the plant can become the cause of the appearance of pests.In the fight against insects, special industrial preparations will help, as well as folk remedies, for example, a soap solution or a solution of manganese.

Woodlice. They appear due to excess moisture in the soil. They are dangerous in that they harm the roots of the plant by eating them. When they appear, watering should be reduced. Insects can be removed manually.
White bugs (podura) in the soil of indoor plants. They appear due to high humidity of the earth or air. The way to deal with them is that the top layer of the soil should dry out, after which they will disappear. You can also fight with chemicals: a solution of potassium permanganate, arrows Doctor, Aktara.
Nematodes. Microscopic worms settling on plant roots. Excess moisture in the soil also contributes to their appearance. In the fight against these dangerous pests, anthelmintic drugs such as Decaris can be used. It is better to destroy a heavily affected plant in order to avoid contamination of other plants.
Bulbous root mite. Harm primarily to bulbous plants. They appear due to high humidity. Preventive measures: good drainage, moderate watering. The roots and bulbs affected by the mite are treated with an available systemic insecticide, for example, Aktellik, Aktara.

Why do you need a soil moisture sensor for indoor plants?

Indoor flower soil moisture indicator It is recommended to use moisture indicators to determine soil moisture. Using this device will help avoid problems associated with over-watering. It is enough just to introduce the indicator into the soil and determine if the plant needs watering.

The use of such devices is especially important for large deep pots, where it is very problematic to determine the state of moisture in the lower layers.

Description of growing indoor flowers without soil

For over 100 years, there has been a method of growing indoor plants that avoids soil-related problems. This is about hydroponics, i.e. growing plants without soil with the use of substrates replacing the soil (expanded clay, vermiculite, moss, peat, coarse sand, coconut fiber and others) or without them (this method is also called - aeroponics).

Hydroponics: the technology of growing indoor flowers without soil With this method of growing the necessary nutrients of the plant are obtained from aqueous solutions. The most common recipe for such a solution is the solution of the German scientist, one of the founders of hydroponics F. Knopp. For hydroponic growing plants at home, you can purchase ready-made hydroponic nutrient solutions.

Growing plants hydroponically is possible if several conditions are met:

free access of air to the root system of the plant;
sufficient air humidity where the roots of the plant are located;
contact of plant roots with nutrient solution.

According to the method of feeding the nutrient solution to the roots of the plant, such methods of hydroponic growing of plants:

one-time filling of a container with a plant with a nutrient solution, with 2/3 of the root system immersed in the solution;
traditional periodic watering of the plant with a solution from above;
adding the solution to the pan of the planter.

For hydroponic growing of plants at home, it is recommended to purchase special containers or use pots of different sizes.

What indoor plants can be grown without soil

In general, this method can be used to grow absolutely any plant. In general, growing hydroponic plants is a fairly straightforward process that can help you avoid soil problems.

See also a video on how to create a DIY hydroponics system at home:

Source

Date of publication:Growing

Is it possible to grow plants without soil, if so how?

White bloom and mold on the soil of indoor plants

Pests in the soil of indoor plants

Why do you need a soil moisture sensor for indoor plants?

Description of growing indoor flowers without soil