Is it possible to grow hydrangea indoors?

Hydrangea plant, which is also called the macrophile hydrangea, belongs to the genus of flowering plants of the Hortensia family, numbering about 80 species. Among them are shrubs and small trees. It grows in the wild in America, Japan, China and other countries of South and East Asia. Breeders do not stop their experiments to develop new varieties and varieties of hydrangea. Today it can be found in a pot on a balcony, terrace, veranda, as well as in the garden. Let's consider in more detail how to grow and care for hydrangeas at home.

Description of hydrangea

Home hydrangea is a perennial shrub with large and jagged ovoid leaves. Its inflorescence-balls are also large, reaching a diameter of 35 cm, and they consist of two types of flowers: large at the edges of the inflorescence and small in its middle. Depending on the pH of the soil, the color of the inflorescences also changes: if the soil is acidic, then they acquire a blue tint, alkaline - pink or lilac, neutral - cream or white. The fruit of a hydrangea is a polyspermous capsule. At home, it can reach a height of about one meter.

Hydrangea care

How to care for room hydrangea? It should be grown in a spacious, bright place, which must be protected from direct sunlight. The most comfortable temperature required for its proper growth and development is 20 degrees. Drafts and sudden temperature changes should not be allowed.

During the dormant period, which begins immediately after flowering, the plant should be moved to a dark, cool place with a temperature of 7-10 degrees and left there until the buds begin to wake up in February, after which it is returned to its usual conditions.Thanks to wintering in a dark room, the hydrangea flower well restores the strength that was spent on flowering, and if this requirement is not observed, the next flowering occurs only after a year.

Gallery: indoor hydrangea (25 photos)

Watering

Caring for room hydrangea provides regular watering... In summer it should be carried out often and abundantly, in spring and autumn - in moderation, and in winter and during dormancy - symbolically. For irrigation, use settled or filtered water. When living in an ecologically clean area, you can also use rainwater. It is recommended to water the flower once a month with water slightly acidified with lemon. Hydrangea needs not only moist soil, but also high air humidity, so it should be sprayed as often as possible and not placed next to heating devices.

Same

Fertilizer

When growing hydrangeas at home, it is necessary to feed during its active growth. Fertilizer should be applied once every 2 weeks. As a top dressing, complex fertilizers are used, which are intended for flowering plants - heather, rhododendrons and azaleas. They begin to be introduced in February, when new shoots are formed. In winter, when the hydrangea is resting, no feeding is carried out.

Pruning

When caring for a flower, a hydrangea is pruned at home. This must be done twice a year: in the fall, after the plant has faded, weak shoots are removed at the root, and strong ones are shortened by half their length. Spring pruning is necessary in order to rid the plant of overly stretched weak shoots.

Transfer

Hydrangea care involves an annual transplant. As a houseplant, it can live 3-4 years, after which a new one is planted. It needs fertile soil, having the following composition:

• three parts of sod and leafy land;
• one piece of sand.

The pot is required spacious and wide, because the hydrangea has a horizontal root system. Transplant it using the transshipment method to minimize stress. The bottom of the pot is covered with a thick layer of drainage. After transplanting, fresh substrate should be added to a new container to fill all the voids, but the root collar of the plant should be flush with the soil surface. After planting the hydrangea and moistening it, it is best to cover the soil in the pot with peat mulch. In this case, moisture from the substrate will not evaporate so quickly.

Reproduction methods

Propagation by cuttings

The most reliable way to propagate hydrangeas at home is by cuttings., and the best time for this is January – February. Shortened cuttings by the next fall are able to form a multi-stem bush of 3-4 shoots. If you are late with grafting and carry it out in March-April, the result is a single-stem plant.

Cuttings are cut from basal shoots 7–8 cm long, while up to three internodes should be located on the segment. The leaves on the bottom of the cuttings should be removed, and the tops of the cuttings should be shortened by a third or half. The lower cut of the cuttings is treated with a root stimulator and planted in a peat-sandy substrate. The cuttings should be kept in the light, the temperature should be 18–20 degrees, and the air humidity should be 75–80%. To create such conditions, they are covered with glass jars, which must be removed every day for airing. Be sure to moisten the soil. Cuttings take root in 3-4 weeks, after which they should be planted in separate pots with a diameter of 7-9 cm.

Seed propagation

The soil that will be used for planting seeds should consist of turf, leafy soil and humus, taken in equal parts... Peat and sand are additionally added to it in half of the part. Small seeds are sown at the end of winter in a small container on the surface of the substrate, without embedding them in the soil, and covered with glass.They should be ventilated every day, and moistened as necessary, and the soil should always be slightly moist. When shoots appear, the glass is removed, and when two true leaves grow, the seedlings are transplanted into deeper containers. When they get stronger, then they are seated in pots with a diameter of 7 cm.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

This method of breeding hydrangeas is considered the easiest, but this requires great care and a certain dexterity. The bush during the annual transplantation should be divided in such a way that all the cuttings have points of growth and the required number of roots. Before planting, both the shoots and the roots of the cut must be shortened, after which they are seated in separate pots and watered, and the surface of the soil is mulched with peat. If the division of the bush is carried out in the spring, then by the fall the divisions take root well.

Diseases and pests of hydrangea

If the humidity is too high, then the hydrangea in the pot can be affected by gray rot. Bordeaux liquid, which the plant is treated with, helps to cope with it. Also, high humidity leads to the appearance of downy mildew, which is destroyed by fungicides or copper-containing preparations. With insufficient moisture, the hydrangea affects aphids and spider mites, which are destroyed by double treatment with actellik or soapy water.

If the hydrangea begins to turn yellow, then this indicates a violation of the rules for caring for the flower:

• applying too little nitrogen to the soil;
• insufficient watering;
• strongly alkaline soil in a pot, which is why chlorosis develops.

When these errors are eliminated, the plant gets better.

Sometimes hydrangea at home starts to dry out. This is due to the following reasons:

• insufficient watering;
• lack of nutrients in the soil;
• root injury during transplantation.

To avoid such problems, you must strictly follow the rules for caring for a hydrangea flower.

This home grown plant may have leaves falling off. In this case, you need to increase the number of irrigations and regularly humidify the air.

Hydrangea may not bloom at home. This happens due to the fact that this houseplant did not rest in winter, and since it expended its strength during flowering, it could not accumulate new ones. Therefore, in winter, he needs a good rest in a cold and dark room. To do this, the hydrangea is taken to the basement or another cool room, all the leaves are removed, the strong shoots are shortened by half, the weak ones are cut off at the root, and laid on one side. This should be done in December so that the hydrangea will come back to life in February. If you follow this rule every year, then the hydrangea will bloom at the right time.

Thus, growing indoor hydrangeas is not easy. It is imperative to follow certain rules for caring for it and grow with special care, not forgetting to arrange periods of rest. Only in this case, this home beauty will delight its owners with lush flowering.

Attention, only TODAY!

Shyness, modesty, sincerity and hope are the symbols of hydrangea. These are indoor flowers in which such characteristics as thrift and tenderness, strength and softness, good nature, joy and lightness coexist. It is a symbol of friendship and negotiation. Hortense drives away ailments and misfortunes, it symbolizes devotion and declaration of love. Room hydrangea turns a room into a piece of paradise.
Despite the fact that the character is not capricious, it cannot be attributed to easily grown crops: it is necessary to study the rules for caring for an amazing room hydrangea at home, and find out its addictions.
If you take care of it properly, it will grow strong, healthy, and will delight you with abundant flowering through November. But do not forget about her, if the loving mistress is distracted by business and worries, the hydrangea will wither and dry out.

Indoor hydrangea: varieties

At home, large-leaved hydrangeas are grown in pots, now there are over a hundred varieties. The varieties differ in flowers (blue, red, pink, cream and white) and names ("Ramars Mars", "Goliath", "M - me E. Mouillere", etc.)

Indoor hydrangea: planting and care

Transfer

It is necessary to transplant the hydrangea at least after 4 years. This is the period of her life as a houseplant. After that, it must be planted again. When transplanted annually, the plant will provide a lush bloom for the owners. The roots grow in breadth, so the pot should be larger than the previous one.

Substrate constituents

Sod land	4
Deciduous land	2
Peat	2
Sand	1

Humus is harmful to the roots of room hydrangea.

To minimize stress on the flower, consider how to properly plant a hydrangea using the transshipment method. A layer of drainage stones is placed on the bottom, then the plant is moved, carefully moving the roots, covered with fresh substrate, leaving the neck of the hydrangea not covered with soil. It is then watered and sprinkled with peat to retain moisture.

Reproduction

To propagate hydrangea, there are two common methods and the third is ineffective:

1. cuttings of hydrangeas;
2. division;
3. planting by seeds is an uncommon and unproductive method.

Propagation by cuttings

Homemade hydrangea propagates easily by cuttings. In early February, shoots are cut into cuttings about 8 cm long in such a way that there are three knots. At the bottom, the leaves are removed, at the top they are trimmed by ½. After being treated with a root stimulant, the cuttings are planted in the soil, watered, covered with jars, kept in partial shade in a humid room at room temperature, daily ventilated and humidified the earth and air. After a month, the cuttings can be planted in pots. If it is necessary for the plants to bloom at the same time, it is necessary to cut into approximately the same lengths and plant in the same containers, place in the same room, provide equal access to moisture and light.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

Large-leaved potted hydrangea multiplies and so: cut off root shoots from the bush - layering. It is very difficult to cut off the shoot, it is advisable to cut with pruning shears. Try to get the shoot with roots.

At the bottom of the pots, it is imperative to pour a layer of drainage from expanded clay or pebbles, broken brick, then transplant into a pot half filled with soil for hydrangea, consisting of soil for indoor plants and a layer from under a pine tree with fallen needles (1: 1). When the bush grows with roots, after four weeks, they fill up the soil with more, of the same composition, sprinkling the roots well, without compacting the earth.

Water the plant well so that water flows out of the drainage holes, as the hydrangea loves moisture. Watered with soft water, as well as boiled water at room temperature.

The transplanted plant is placed in a shaded place. It is recommended to cut the leaves in half, but it is possible to leave them. After planting a sprout, cover with a bag or a glass dome, building a kind of greenhouse. By removing the crown from the plant, a more lush, branchy plant is obtained, from the lateral buds of which new shoots depart. In this case, the plant will bloom only after a year, since the large-leaved hydrangea blooms on the shoots of the previous year. And if you leave the top of the head, then the hydrangea will bloom earlier.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Dividing a bush is the simplest way to propagate hydrangeas. A simple way will require neatness. The bush is divided so that there are live shoots with buds and roots in sufficient quantities, which must be shortened. Plant in pots according to the rules indicated above. Then water and mulch. Naturally, the best time to transplant, divide, cut is spring, since rooting is better in spring.

Seed propagation

Hydrangea seeds are small. Seed propagation of hydrangeas is a difficult problem for real researchers.Prepare the substrate and sow in February.

Substrate constituents

Humus	2
Leaf land	2
Turf	2
Peat	1
Sand	1

Place the substrate in small containers. It is necessary to sow the seeds, leaving them on the surface, without embedding them inside. Cover the sown seeds with glass, sprinkling daily from a spray bottle. It is also necessary to regularly ventilate to avoid decay. The glass can be removed when shoots appear. After the appearance of a couple of leaves, the plants dive. Not all sowing is capable of sprouting.

Pruning

The hydrangea is not always pruned, but this is very important, because as a result, the bush is formed correctly.

Let's take a look at how to prune a hydrangea.

• In the autumn, frail shoots are removed at the root, healthy ones are cut in half.
• In the spring - remove the stretching shoots and remove the top.

Preparing for winter

Leave for the winter on the windowsill at room temperature. And an adult bush is sent to winter in a cellar, where potatoes winter, at a temperature of 5-8˚С. The dormant period is beneficial for fuller summer blooms.

Change the color of the hydrangea

Huge inflorescences of indoor hydrangea can change color. Let's take a look at how to change the color of a hydrangea. For this, it is not necessary to look for a specific variety, but it is necessary to change the composition of the soil. Adding peat, coniferous soil, sawdust - this is how to acidify the soil for hydrangeas before planting. Hydrangea, like a litmus test, reacts to the chemical composition of the earth. In neutral soils, it acquires white or cream shades, in acidic - blue, in alkaline - pink and lilac shades.

Acidified water will give brightness: potassium alum, you can spray with a solution of aluminum citrate, if the dwelling needs a blue color in the interior.
Changes in the composition of the soil will lead to color changes: by adding lime, ash, chalk, you will provide your interior with pink, having received such inflorescences.

These are the basic rules for planting and leaving room hydrangeas.

Diseases

As with any cultivated plant, hydrangea diseases are numerous.

• Gray mold or downy mildew is caused by excessive moisture. Treatment with Bordeaux liquid is prescribed - for the first, fungicides and copper-containing preparations - for the second disease.
• Aphids are destroyed with a solution of soap, karbofos or actellik, and a tick - with a solution of soap and constant spraying. Both of these pests appear when the air is dry.
• Yellowing is observed with insufficient watering, insufficient nitrogen or an excess of alkali in the soil.
• Hydrangea dries up due to lack of nutrients and then it is necessary to feed.
• There may be several reasons why the tips of the leaves dry up in hydrangea: insufficient watering and spraying, as well as drafts, which should not be allowed in the care of a room hydrangea.
• The reason why the hydrangea does not bloom is because it did not have a proper rest. She needs 2.5 months of wintering in a cool, dark place: basement, cellar, from December to February. Cut branches, even from a healthy-looking bush that does not dry out and does not fall for the winter, should rest until spring, it is wrong to leave the plant awake.
• The leaves on the hydrangea also turn yellow because it is a deciduous plant; in the fall, the leaves should fall off - this is the norm.
• Among the incurable diseases of the room hydrangea can be called a nematode. The plant will have to be destroyed.

This is the nature of the room hydrangea and care for it should be appropriate at home.

Feeding hydrangeas

When the growing season, rapid development occurs, in the care of the hydrangea, it becomes necessary to feed, which must be carried out twice a month, starting in February, using fertilizers for indoor flowers.
Confused about how to feed a room hydrangea at home, you can contact a household goods store.Fertilizers are suitable for other flowering plants.

Why is hydrangea fertilizer necessary?

A luxurious flower needs careful care so that it gives all its splendor:

• only with fertilizers will the hydrangea be healthy and strong, the buds will appear often, the inflorescences will be large, the flowers will be bright;
• good resistance to diseases and pests is provided;
• variety of shades, thanks to the applied top dressing!

PERIOD	FEEDING, WHAT AND FOR WHAT
WINTER	The first fertilization in February is aimed at the formation of beautiful healthy leaves. (nitrogen fertilizers)
SPRING	Provides bud formation (phosphorus and potassium). It is also useful in the spring to water and sprinkle with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
SUMMER	The first top dressing in the summer is needed to continue the formation of the ovary (nitrophoska "Agricola"). The second green dressing (nettle infusion). The third is for blooming buds (special complex fertilizers). At the end of summer, avoid feeding with nitrogen, do non-traditional feeding (from fermented milk products, sour bread).
AUTUMN	For planting shoots and peduncles (potassium-phosphorus; compost, peat, humus).

That's all you need to know in order for your beauty - indoor hydrangea - to delight you with long flowering.

A lovely flower that looks like a bride in a cloud of lace can be the best decoration for your home. A flowerpot with it can turn any room into a cozy, fabulous apartment. But do we know how to care for a room hydrangea so that it thanks us for a long time with its lush flowering?

Description of the plant

If you have not yet come across a room hydrangea, then you probably saw her older sister in the gardens and flower beds. People call this perennial shrub with huge clusters of white flowers "Destiny" or "Bride". It looks much the same, only the stems are much smaller.

This is a perennial shrub covered with oval leaves framed by cloves. Ball-shaped inflorescences can reach about 20 cm in diameter. Flowers are corymbose, racemose or umbrella-shaped. Large inflorescences located at the edges of the flower are sterile, and fertile ones are usually small in size and located in the center.

Indoor hydrangea will serve as an excellent decoration for any home

The peculiarity of hydrangea from other plants is that the color of its flowers does not depend on the variety or some breeding rules, but on the properties of the soil in which the bush grows:

• neutral soil - cream or white;
• acidic soil - blue;
• alkaline soil - pink or lilac.

At the same time, the petals themselves remain colorless, and the sepals of the flowers are responsible for the shades and decorative qualities of the inflorescences: it is they that acquire a bright color.

At home and if all the rules are followed, hydrangea can easily reach a height of 1 meter.

Room hydrangea care

To make it grow strong, healthy and delight you with its flowering as often as possible, provide it with suitable conditions. It is believed that this flower is unpretentious. But if some of the conditions are not met correctly, the hydrangea will begin to wither and die over time. Therefore, please read our tips carefully and follow them constantly.

Landing rules

The life span of a hydrangea as an indoor flower is about 4 years, after which it will need to be planted again. In addition, the plant requires annual replanting, which promotes lush flowering. Since the root system of the plant has a horizontal type (it grows not down, but to the sides), wide, spacious pots should be selected. Each next one should be at least one and a half times larger than the previous one.

Transplant the hydrangea into a larger pot for good root growth

To plant hydrangeas, prepare the substrate in this ratio:

• 0.5 parts of sand;
• 1 part peat;
• 1 piece of leafy land;
• 2 parts of turf land.

It is not necessary to add humus to such a mixture: it is harmful to the roots of hydrangea.

Like any cultivated plant, it perceives transplanting as stress, which negatively affects future development. To minimize the hazard, transplant the flower using the transhipment method. Place a good drainage layer on the bottom of the flowerpot. When the plant is moved to a new pot, fill in fresh substrate. He must fill all the voids, leaving the root collar of the flower flush with the ground.

After you transplant the hydrangea and moisten the soil, add a layer of peat mulch to the flowerpot: it will retain the required amount of moisture in the substrate.

Flower location, light and temperature conditions

Hydrangea feels great in a well-lit space, but there should be no direct sunlight. It is not recommended to keep it directly on the windowsill: the leaves will eventually become covered with light spots - burns. But even in the shade, a flower cannot develop. Place the flower in a south-facing room 2-3 meters from the windowsill.

The best temperature for hydrangea is room temperature, within +18 - +22 degrees. The flower does not tolerate sudden changes, as well as drafts.

Position the hydrangea out of direct sunlight

During the dormant period, this plant needs coolness and shade. You can lower it to the basement for this time and water it if necessary. Comfortable temperature +7 - +10 degrees. In February, the flower will begin to release buds - it's time to return it to the room. If you do not provide the hydrangea with the correct wintering conditions, it will bloom only a year later, next winter.

Watering the flower and the necessary moisture

Hydrangea is a very moisture-loving plant. No wonder she was given another name - hydrangea, or "a barrel of water." However, it is also not recommended to overdo it in watering.

Note! The optimal watering formula is as follows: in summer - regularly and a lot, in autumn and spring - in moderation. In winter, during the dormant period, watering is done only when necessary, in order to prevent stagnation of moisture in the pot.

Water for irrigation needs to be taken settled, at room temperature. Rainwater or melt water is great (only if you live in an ecologically clean region). Add 5 drops of lemon juice to 1 liter of water from time to time. With low acidity, hydrangea leaves begin to turn yellow.

If the edges of the hydrangea leaves dry out, then the room humidity is too low. Don't put the flower next to the battery, use humidifiers. Spray the plant with water from a spray bottle as often as possible.

Do you want to speed up flowering and increase the decorative effect of flowers? This is easy to do: add gibberellin to the water for irrigation and spraying at the rate of 0.1 g per 1 liter of water.

Fertilizers and feeding

During the period of active growth, hydrangea needs feeding, which must be applied once every 2 weeks. For this, any fertilizer for flowering plants, such as heathers, rhododendrons, azaleas, is suitable. You can easily buy them at any hardware or flower shop.

Buy flowering fertilizers from your specialty store

Feeding begins in February, when the hydrangea, after a dormant period, begins to form new shoots. It is not recommended to feed the plant in winter.

Pruning

Novice gardeners may find that indoor hydrangea does not need to be pruned. This is not true. On the contrary, it is for indoor hydrangea that pruning is a very important condition for care. Thanks to her, the bush will take shape, and the plant as a whole will correctly distribute the nutrients obtained from the soil.

Prune the hydrangea in time to form the crown of the bush

You need to prune twice a year:

1. In the fall, when the hydrangea has faded, remove weak shoots under the root. Shorten strong ones by half the length.
2. In the spring, remove too long, weak shoots.

You can also trim off the top of the plant.This will allow additional shoots to grow and form a lush bush.

Reproduction

Most often, the reproduction of this flower is carried out by cuttings and dividing the bush. Seed planting is less commonly used: this method is quite time consuming and does not always give positive results.

Cuttings

This is the easiest way. Held in January-February. Cut the cuttings from the root shoots so that there are no more than 3 internodes on an 8 cm branch. Remove leaves from the bottom of the cuttings. Shorten the upper ones by half. Treat the bottom cut with a root stimulator. Plant the cuttings in a substrate of sand and peat, keep in the light at a humidity of about 80 /% and a temperature of up to 20 degrees. It is recommended to cover the cuttings with glass jars, removing them daily for airing. Moisten the soil constantly. After 3-4 weeks, cuttings can be planted in pots.

Hydrangea stalk with roots

Dividing the bush

Also a simple method, but it requires caution. When making an annual transplant, divide the bush so that each division has growth points and roots in the right amount. Shoots and roots must be shortened. Plant parts of the plant in different pots, water and mulch the soil. It is better to divide the bush in the spring if you want the divisions to take root by the fall.

Growing from seeds

Held at the end of winter. Prepare the soil from equal parts of humus, leaf and turf soil. Add half of the peat and sand. Put some of the substrate in a bowl and scatter the hydrangea seeds over the surface, without embedding them in the soil. Cover the seed pot with glass. Air and moisten crops every day with a spray bottle to keep the soil constantly moist, but not wet. The glass can be removed after germination. When 2 leaves appear on the seedlings, dive them into containers with the same soil.

Seed propagation of hydrangeas is a painstaking task

Strictly observe the breeding time so that the hydrangea grows and forms properly.

Diseases and pests

Like any cultivated plant, indoor hydrangea can be exposed to diseases and harmful insects. How to recognize them, and most importantly - get rid of them?

1. Gray rot appears on hydrangeas when the air humidity is very high. You can stop its development by treating the flower with Bordeaux liquid.

   Gray rot on hydrangea leaves

2. Downy mildew also attacks the plant in high humidity. Destroyed by fungicides and copper-containing preparations.

   Downy mildew

3. Dry air and insufficient soil moisture leads to the appearance of aphids and spider mites. The first is destroyed with soapy water, karbofos or actellik. The second is with soapy water and frequent spraying.

   Spider mite traces

4. If the plant is affected by a nematode, then, unfortunately, it will have to be thrown away.

When growing hydrangeas, you may have some more difficulties. For example, yellowing of leaves. The reason for this is most often improper care: insufficient watering, low nitrogen content in the soil, chlorosis caused by a large amount of alkali in the soil. The plant will recover as soon as you correct these errors.

If you forget about watering and spraying, very soon the hydrangea will begin to dry out. The reason may also be a lack of nutrients in the substrate or damage to the roots during transplantation. In the first case, it is enough to water the flower in a timely manner, in the second - to provide good feeding. If the cause was an injury to the root system, such a bush is unlikely to grow healthy.

If the hydrangea does not bloom, it means that in winter it was not provided with proper rest. All forces were expended on the previous flowering, and new ones were not accumulated. Do not forget that the flower needs wintering for 70–80 days in a cool, dark room.Even if the leaves don't dry out or fall off and the hydrangea looks fresh and strong, prune it and lower the plant pot into the basement. Do this in December, and in February the flower will be ready for the next life cycle.

Unique property of hydrangea

This wonderful flower is interesting for its unusual ability to change the color of the petals. You can use this to create a shade with your own hands that is in harmony with the interior of the room. Hydrangea accumulates aluminum, due to which its flowers acquire the desired color.

For example, the petals will turn pink if you add lime to the soil. The addition of aluminum sulfate will provide a blue color. Sour soil will give the colors brightness and saturation, neutral - noble pallor. Use peat, coniferous soil, or sawdust for oxidation. For alkalization, it is better to use ash, lime and chalk.

You can change the color of the hydrangea yourself with a little trick.

To get blue flowers, add potassium alum to the water for irrigation, about 8 grams per liter of water. You can also spray the bush with a solution of 50 g of aluminum citrate per 1 liter of water.

Some growers claim that hydrangea with white petals does not change its color due to the properties of the soil or the addition of any substances. Allegedly, only varieties with blue and pink flowers are subject to such changes. Well, that's a good reason to experiment at home. Moreover, in this way you will not harm the flower itself.

Video: features of care and reproduction of room hydrangea

We hope you are interested in this extraordinarily beautiful flower, and our tips will help you grow a strong, healthy and blooming hydrangea. Share your work experience with us in the comments and ask your questions. Good luck and comfort to your home!

Material updated on 19.06.2017

Good afternoon! My name is Svetlana. This site has become for me not only an additional source of income, but also an opportunity to share with you my knowledge of housekeeping.

Hydrangea, blooming with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Care and cultivation of homemade varieties is, of course, different from cultivating hydrangeas in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas in the room.

A beauty loving water

The Latin name for hydrangea - hydrangea - literally translates as "a vessel with water". This name was given to this plant for a reason: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea pleases with its beauty both in the room and in the garden

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves for the winter and retires.

Main characteristics of hydrangea:

• there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
• types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-like, tree-like and shrub;
• some species are frost-resistant;
• garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and lianas even up to thirty;
• hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

When grown at home, large-leaved hydrangea is used, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can grow up to 1.5 meters in size. New indoor cultivars usually range in height from 50 to 100 cm.

• hydrangea leaves serrated, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10-15 cm in length. In autumn they turn red and fall off by winter;
• inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be monochromatic, of different color, or change it as it develops and depending on the acidity of the soil;
• small petals are located inside the sepals;
• flowers can be sterile or fruiting. The seeds are very small;
• the shape of the flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbellate, pineal and racemose;
• sepals of different types and varieties have a varied shape, can be double;
• hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
• The number of inflorescences on hydrangeas increases as the plant ages.

When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will certainly delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, besides, the color of flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color from the chemical composition of the soil.

Flower buds of an ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on dried, extra shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been bred, in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both the past and this year. These are called remontant.

Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers do not tolerate bright sunlight.

Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species grow in Russia in the Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate extreme heat, therefore it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of hydrangea paniculate and tree-like are used for medicinal purposes and make various medicinal preparations from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's consider a few of the most popular ones, dividing them by color categories.

Light

Sister Teresa (Soeur Therese):

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint by the end of flowering change color to greenish-pink;
• blooms until September on last year's shoots;
• dense, spreading shrub.

Inflorescences of the Sister Teresa variety reach 30 cm in size

Mme E. Mouillere:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then take on light pink or light blue hues;
• blooms profusely on the shoots of the past and this year until October;
• the leaves are narrower than those of other varieties.

Variety Madame Emile Mulevo during flowering, like true French women, does not forget about changing the colors of her outfits

Blue

Early Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• blue inflorescences with blue-violet shades at first have a greenish color;
• blooms profusely until October on the shoots of the previous and current year;
• has a strong root system and a compact bush.

The Earley Blue variety pleases with flowering until October

Nikko Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are bright blue, to maintain color, an acid reaction of the soil is needed at 5.5-7.0 pH;
• abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
• fast-growing, medium-sized shrub.

The inflorescences of the Niko Blue variety can compete with the sky blue in brightness

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink-crimson with a white edging, which turns green over time;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• compact bush.

The bushes of the Ramars Mars (Mars) variety are compact, but the inflorescences are giant

Miss Saori:

• diameter of inflorescences 18 cm;
• inflorescences are dull white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• dark green foliage has a purple tint.

The Miss Saori variety has an original color not only of flowers, but also of leaves.

You & me Love:

• stem height 100 cm;
• blooms continuously from May to September;
• in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in sour, with a high aluminum content - in blue;
• leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
• frost resistance -29 ° C.

The frost-resistant variety You and my love was bred quite recently - in 2015

Red

Admiration:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers are bright red;
• abundant flowering in October on the shoots of the last year;
• the bush has a dense crown.

The Delight variety blooms profusely even in October.

Multicolor

Bavaria:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
• profuse flowering until October on last year's shoots;
• compact bush.

Variety Bavaria - a real extravaganza of colors and shades

Hot Red:

• diameter of inflorescences 15 cm;
• red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
• blooms until October on last year's shoots;
• lush bush, does not lie down from massive inflorescences.

Red flowers of the Hot Red variety with high acidity of the soil acquire a purple hue

Schloss Wackerbarth:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
• flowering on the shoots of last year until October-early November;
• flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety.

Often beginner growers are looking for a variety of "hydrangea mix". You should know that there is no such variety, this phrase denotes multi-colored hydrangeas in the composition or in the assortment of the store.

Grown houses in a hydrangea pot in the photo

Hydrangea care at home

From too bright sunny color, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, you need to place it on the east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from the window, especially from the southern one. For flowering, diffused light hydrangea is enough.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.

The hydrangea thrives best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda, or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then regularly ventilate the room, and at high temperatures place it on the northern windows.

Try to take the hydrangea out into the fresh air as often as possible.

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, like drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

• it is necessary to spray the hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry hot weather;
• in the heat, be sure to place vessels with water next to it;
• good humidification option: put the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition for growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

When watering, use soft water, as the plant is badly affected by excess lime. To do this, you can boil tap water, wait for the sediment to accumulate at the bottom, and drain the clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use coniferous litter or chopped pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

• coniferous litter;
• chopped pine bark;
• coniferous sawdust;
• high-moor peat;
• sphagnum moss.

In the fall, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only in order not to dry out the earthy clod and plant roots. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water, it needs good drainage.

It is necessary to acidify the soil once or twice a month during watering. You can use lemon juice, citric acid for this.

• juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
• citric acid consumption: powder at the tip of a knife per liter of water.

It is necessary to feed the hydrangea from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants.Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For a better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Dissolve granular nitrogen fertilizers in warm water and water the plant once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

For spraying, it is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia), this will also be an additional prevention of pests. They can also water the plant. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of acidity and alkalinity of the soil change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, then there are special feeding for this.

Use special products strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions.

You can use other methods: adding aluminum sulfate or a little liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, necessarily controlling the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral, if the value is lower, the soil is acidic, with a higher value, the soil is alkaline.

• acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content maintains blue, blue and purple shades of inflorescences;
• neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6-7) maintains light, white colors;
• more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content gives pink and red color.

The optimum acidity for hydrangeas is in the range of 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate strongly alkaline (calcareous) soils! With a strongly alkaline reaction of the soil, the hydrangea cannot absorb iron, it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

• slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
• medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
• strongly alkaline: pH - 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is maintained by coniferous litter, pine bark, high moor peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity supports the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after depositing funds. If it "falls short" of the desired value, the application should be repeated.

Inflorescences of red color can be "repainted" in lilac and violet shades, change the pink color to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful transition of colors.

When using such products, make sure that they do not get on the leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:

• To change the pink color to blue, red to purple-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
• We change the blue color to pink, stopping feeding with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly in the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7-8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). 1-2 times a month when watering, add potassium permanganate to the water: 5-7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect instant changes. The color can only begin to change from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: Do's and Don'ts

If the variety is growing slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the growth of hydrangea is fast, then you will have to prune more often.

Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so you cannot cut them off. You can cut off shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting), or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea gives an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers, they stand in the water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give life to new plants.

Hydrangeas make up gorgeous bouquets, both single and in the company of other flowers

Faded inflorescences are pruned as they dry above the uppermost bud.

Hydrangea pruning principles:

• if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be cut;
• old, thickened and small shoots are cut off on hydrangeas;
• shoots for thinning are cut in the spring, and sick and dry shoots can be cut off in the fall;
• do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

Scheme: cut off everything that is superfluous and dry

How to prune a hydrangea:

1. Select dry, excess or too small shoots and cut them off with sharp, sterile scissors or pruning shears.
2. Treat the slices with turmeric, herbs or activated carbon powder.
3. You can water the hydrangea a day after pruning, when the slices dry out a little.

The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. 4–5 branches are left on each trunk.

Dormant period

At the beginning of the leaf fall, so that the roots do not rot, watering the hydrangea is reduced. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet commercial soil when you first open the package.

After dropping hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure the temperature is less than 10 ° C.

The hydrangea hibernates best at a temperature of + 5–8 ° C. Therefore, the best option is to take the plant pot to a dry basement. It is necessary not to forget at this time to water the ground a little in order to prevent the death of the root system.

If you don't have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She does not need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, the hydrangea must be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Diseases and treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakening of immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases, be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangeas:

• if the hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, then powdery mildew may form on the plant (fungal disease);
• in very dry and hot weather (more than + 27 ° C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
• in extreme heat (more than +30 ° C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
• on alkaline soils (excess lime, more than 8 pH), hydrangea forms chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves;
• with insufficient air and soil moisture, the hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, the roots can dry out;
• with poor drainage and abundant watering, the roots begin to rot, as a result, fungal diseases are formed.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solution

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-agent based on beneficial bacteria to the soil during watering 1-2 times a month: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea

Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: soil selection, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in all types of soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, sour and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: sod land 2 parts, coniferous litter 1 part, peat 1 part, chopped pine bark 0.5 part, sand 0.5 part.

From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in the swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will start to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1–2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

There should be a 1–2 cm drainage layer at the bottom of the hydrangea pot

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots have completely filled the space, then repot the plant in a slightly larger pot. Hydrangea roots grow shallowly, but densely.

If the roots began to appear from the drainage hole, it is time to transplant the hydrangea.

On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For planting, prepare:

• new pot;
• land;
• drainage;
• mulch: coniferous litter, chopped coniferous bark, coniferous sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
• boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until slightly pink (for watering);
• spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying leaves).

Landing rules:

• When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
• The root collar can be deepened by 2–3 cm;
• The soil is not dried out during transplantation, part of the land remains on the roots;
• After planting, the earth must be tamped so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
• When planting, the roots should be spread down and not bend;
• After transplanting, some of the leaves may fall off the hydrangea - this is normal.

Planting stages

1. We take out the plant from the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife. We take out the hydrangea from the pot, separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife

2. We shake off excess soil from the roots and examine them, if necessary, cut off excess, dry and diseased ones.

   We remove excess soil and examine the root system

3. We pour drainage and a little earth on the bottom of the pot, place a hydrangea in the center and fill the roots with earth 2-3 cm above the root collar. So we place the plant in a new pot
4. We tamp the earth, if necessary, fill up the soil and spill it well. Spray the leaves with warm water. Water the hydrangea with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate and spray the leaves with clean warm water
5. Lay a 1-1.5 cm layer of mulch on top. Pour a layer of mulch on top of the soil

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing a potted hydrangea

Reproduction of room hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing a bush or seeds. The easiest and most effective way is grafting. Hydrangea, propagated in this way, blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings is easy both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be made from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For grafting you need to prepare:

• sterile secateurs;
• the drug Kornevin;
• planting substrate (clean sand or infertile soil);
• small low pot;
• shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
• a spray bottle with warm water;
• turmeric or charcoal powder for processing slices.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step process of grafting:

1. Cut off the selected green stalk. Carefully cut off the chosen twig
2. We make a cut under the lower kidney. Cut off the stalk under the lower bud
3. We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud. Cut off the top above the upper kidney
4. Cut off the excess lower leaves. The lower leaves of the cuttings are now useless
5. Trim the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation Leaves should be trimmed by about half
6. We dip the lower cut into Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting slightly at an angle into a dry substrate by 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil and each other. We stick the cutting into the substrate
7. We moisten the substrate abundantly from a spray bottle with warm water. Wet the substrate abundantly with water
8. Powder the slices with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and put them in a shady, cool place for a month. Cover the cuttings to preserve moisture

• it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
• the optimum temperature for rooting is + 18–25 ° C;
• a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
• for winter, cuttings are prepared for rest, like ordinary hydrangeas;
• in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June 1 time per week;
• in May of the following year, after planting, the cutting can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea by cuttings

Rooting in water

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to water at the tip of a knife. You can add Methylene Blue (available from pet store aquariums). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to slightly tint the water with it to a blue tint.

Methylene blue conditions and disinfects water

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.

We put the cutting in the water until the roots form and plant it in the ground after the roots grow a little.

Hydrangea cuttings root well in water

The roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To split a bush:

• we get the hydrangea out of the pot;
• shake off excess soil;
• we check the roots, cut off the dried ones if necessary.
• we are looking for a suitable place for separation and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
• we plant delenki according to the usual scheme.

This bush is cut in two

Seed propagation

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

• Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture: 4 parts of leafy land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sand, 1 part of humus;
• You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
• Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination into the water, with which you will moisten the soil from a spray bottle, you can add Epin: 7-8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

1. Sow seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
2. Sprinkle with sand on top quite a bit (!). Moisten with a spray bottle and cover with glass or other transparent lid.
3. We put it in a warm, bright place (+ 18–28 ° C). But not in direct sunlight!
4. We monitor the humidity, regularly spray the substrate.
5. We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
6. When shoots appear, remove the glass.

The seeds germinate within a month.

Seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When young plants have five leaves, they need to be planted again.

Hydrangea seed reproduction stage

Small sprouts need to be fed with fertilizer from nitrogen and potassium 2 times a month (watered or sprayed).

Fertilizer composition: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few potassium permanganate granules (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for a hydrangea is quite difficult, it fully justifies itself when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with the hydrangea in either the size or the brightness of the inflorescences.

Ksenia, 39 years old. By education, a pastry chef, but had a chance to work in many other areas (sales, office, renovation).I love to cook and plant flowers.