Is it possible to grow panicle hydrangea in a pot at home?

In the previous article on hydrangea, I talked about the most popular varieties and rules for growing in the garden. Many flower growers, unfortunately, do not have their own plot, but would dream of growing a luxurious hydrangea bush in an apartment. Despite the fact that hydrangea loves an abundance of light and space, perhaps you will find a suitable window sill where it can grow in a pot. Naturally, you should not expect the same abundant flowering from a "domesticated" hydrangea as from a garden form. In a pot, in the confined space of the roots, with less light than on an open surface, hydrangea inflorescences will be much smaller in size. But at the same time, they will not lose their charm, incredible colors and a tendency to long-term flowering. Only, if possible, send hydrangea to an open space - a loggia or balcony during the summer months. It is also worthwhile to foresee a place for the wintering of your pet in advance.

In the article where we tamed the "obstinate" orchid, I already said that the flowering program in plants "turns on" after several successive natural signals. For hydrangea, such a signal is winter rest for 2–2.5 months. During this period, the hydrangea bush is kept in a cool room (basement, glazed loggia, unheated storeroom) at temperatures ranging from 5 ... 10 ºС. And only after coming out of a 2-month sleep, the hydrangea will delight you with flowering from April to November.

Hydrangea will delight you with flowering from April to November

Conditions for growing hydrangeas at home

Substrate
Hydrangea is grown only in acidic soil. A ready-made substrate for azaleas, citrus fruits, conifers or a special one for hydrangeas, bought in a store, is suitable for her. Therefore, I recommend growing hydrangeas in a mixture of turf, black peat, humus or leafy soil and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 0.5.

Transfer
We spend it every year after the plant wakes up. If you regulate the growth of your hydrangea, leaving it constantly in the same frame, then you do not need to increase the diameter of the pot. After wintering, some of the thinnest roots dry up irrevocably, only the most powerful ones remain viable. Without a twinge of conscience, we remove the "cobweb" of roots together with the waste soil and plant it again in an old pot, but with fresh soil. And so every year.

Watering
During flowering, water the plant abundantly, ensuring stable soil moisture. Complete drying of the coma is not allowed until a dormant period occurs, in which the hydrangea is introduced gradually, reducing watering to nothing. Watering should be done only with soft water.For hydrangeas, this is very important, because it does not tolerate alkaline soils, and they become so and lose the necessary acidic reaction, especially with frequent watering with hard water with a high calcium content. Rainwater, from a well or spring, is best. As a last resort, stand the tap water for 24 hours before watering the hydrangea. Acidify it occasionally with citric or oxalic acid.

Fertilizer
Every 10-14 days, watering with water is replaced with fertilizer. We begin to water the fertilizer only when small inflorescences appear on the tips of the shoots. Universal fertilizer for flowering plants or any complex fertilizer is diluted in the proportion indicated on the package. After flowering, two dressings are made with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or, in the absence of, they are skipped altogether.

Light
The balcony or window should be very light, with a minimum of direct sunlight. If your hydrangea looks “grafted” every day at noon, but the earthen lump is still wet, change the window on which it grows.

Trimming and shaping
Can be carried out before or after a dormant period. Remember that the hydrangea lays flower buds at the top of the shoot of the current year. So your plant should always have two types of branches: the first - last year's and flowering and the second - with the prospect of flowering next year. This is important to know when pruning. We do not cut new shoots, we shorten the faded ones to 2-3 internodes or cut them out at all. Hydrangea needs to ration the number of shoots. We leave only powerful, well-developed shoots. In the root zone, in the fall, we pluck out new shoots, leaving no more than 5 best shoots.

Your plant should always have two types of branches: the first - last year and flowering and the second - with the prospect of flowering next year

Reproduction
The hydrangea can be easily propagated if desired. Most willingly, hydrangea reproduces by green cuttings. The best time for this is mid to late summer. In the root zone, select well-developed shoots and cut them off at the base with a sharp knife. We also take side shoots from last year's branches. Cut the cuttings up to 10 cm long with several pairs of leaves, which are removed from the bottom of it and shortened to half at the top. The survival rate of such cuttings is very high - 80–90%. To guarantee this result, we dip the end of each cutting into a root stimulant, the range of which is now very large. But even without the help of a stimulant, cuttings root remarkably within 4-5 weeks. We plant the prepared cuttings in an acidic substrate based on peat, any of the above will do. To maintain high humidity, put a transparent plastic bag on top of the pot with several holes for ventilation. After two months, remove the bag and take care of the small shoots like a regular houseplant.

Cuttings root remarkably within 4-5 weeks

"Magic potion", or how to change the color of hydrangea

To transform one hydrangea into another, we cannot do without a "magic potion". To prepare it, we need water and potassium alum (these are derivatives of various alkali metals) or aluminum sulfate. These components can be purchased at any gardening store.
The color change occurs only with the simultaneous presence of two factors: acidic soil and the presence of aluminum. So, we dilute potassium alum as follows: 5-10 g per 1 liter of water, and aluminum sulfate - 15 g. Water the pot with hydrangea with this solution from the moment the small inflorescences appeared, alternating watering with ordinary water, fertilized and "magic".
Delicate pink hydrangea blooms with blue flowers, deep pink - with lilac or lilac (it depends on the intensity of the original pigment), red - purple. And if you water the dark pink varieties with aluminum sulfate or iron, then you can count on blue flowers.

The color change occurs only with the simultaneous presence of two factors: acidic soil and the presence of aluminum

To make it easier to understand what we will have in different months, and how our hydrangea will look like at the same time, I have compiled a calendar for keeping a hydrangea at home for you.

Note to flower growers

December to January – rest period. Hydrangea stands in a cool room at a temperature of 5 ... 10 ºС with a dry or slightly damp lump of earth. Branches without foliage.

February - ntimidity. The buds swell on the branches, the hydrangea gives a signal that it will soon begin to bloom. It's time to transplant it into fresh soil, possibly by increasing the size of the pot, and transfer it to a light window. We accustom to watering gradually, carefully and reasonably as the earth dries out, letting the earth dry out a little from above. Avoid the accumulation of excess water in the pan and do not leave the pot soaked in it. Choose a window that is very light, without direct sunlight.

March to April – active growth... Hydrangea is becoming greener every day, actively increasing its green mass, preparing for flowering. We take care of the hydrangea as usual: we water and fertilize.

May to October – bloom... Hydrangea goes through different stages of flowering: development, blooming, coloration and color change. If possible, we take it out to the balcony in partial shade. During this period, we carefully monitor the moisture content of the earthen coma, never allowing it to dry out, we regularly fertilize the plant. Enjoy the beauty of hydrangea to the fullest.

November – the end of flowering. The inflorescences can dry out and wither. It's time to cut them off and give the plant a break from depleting flowering. We fertilize a couple of times instead of nitrogen or complex fertilizers with phosphorus-potassium. We gradually reduce the number and frequency of watering.

December - rest time... Hortense threw off all the leaves, she fell asleep. The clod of earth is barely wet. We carry out pruning of frail and disproportionately grown shoots and send them to a cool place until February.

If you once tried to grow a hydrangea, then, I am sure, you will forever remain a fan of it. This plant is interesting to grow not only for aesthetic purposes, but also as an experiment. After all, every florist is, in fact, in something and somewhere a magician, only thanks to his care and love can a plant bloom, not to mention changing color. Give time and care to your plants and they will surely respond with lush bloom! The word of an experienced florist.

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Hydrangea, blooming with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Care and cultivation of homemade varieties is, of course, different from cultivating hydrangeas in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas in the room.

A beauty loving water

The Latin name for hydrangea - hydrangea - literally translates as "a vessel with water". This name was given to this plant for a reason: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.

Hydrangea pleases with its beauty both in the room and in the garden

Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves for the winter and retires.

Main characteristics of hydrangea:

• there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
• types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-like, tree-like and shrub;
• some species are frost-resistant;
• garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and lianas even up to thirty;
• hydrangeas live for about 20 years.

When grown at home, large-leaved hydrangea is used, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.

Indoor hydrangeas can grow up to 1.5 meters in size. New indoor cultivars usually range in height from 50 to 100 cm.

• hydrangea leaves serrated, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10-15 cm in length. In autumn they turn red and fall off by winter;
• inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be monochromatic, of different color, or change it as it develops and depending on the acidity of the soil;
• small petals are located inside the sepals;
• flowers can be sterile or fruiting. The seeds are very small;
• the shape of the flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbellate, pineal and racemose;
• sepals of different types and varieties have a varied shape, can be double;
• hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
• The number of inflorescences on hydrangeas increases as the plant ages.

When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will certainly delight you with its flowering.

The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, besides, the color of flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color from the chemical composition of the soil.

Flower buds of an ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on dried, extra shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.

Now new varieties have been bred, in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both the past and this year. These are called remontant.

Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers cannot stand bright sunlight.

Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species grow in Russia in the Far East.

Hydrangea does not tolerate extreme heat, therefore it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high humidity.

Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of hydrangea paniculate and tree-like are used for medicinal purposes and make various medicinal preparations from them.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color

There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's consider a few of the most popular ones, dividing them by color categories.

Light

Sister Teresa (Soeur Therese):

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint by the end of flowering change color to greenish-pink;
• blooms until September on last year's shoots;
• dense, spreading shrub.

Inflorescences of the Sister Teresa variety reach 30 cm in size

Mme E. Mouillere:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then take on light pink or light blue hues;
• blooms profusely on the shoots of the past and this year until October;
• the leaves are narrower than those of other varieties.

Variety Madame Emile Mulevo during flowering, like true French women, does not forget about changing the colors of her outfits

Blue

Early Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• blue inflorescences with blue-violet shades at first have a greenish color;
• blooms profusely until October on the shoots of the previous and current year;
• has a strong root system and a compact bush.

The Earley Blue variety pleases with flowering until October

Nikko Blue:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are bright blue, to maintain color, an acid reaction of the soil is needed at 5.5-7.0 pH;
• abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
• fast-growing, medium-sized shrub.

The inflorescences of the Niko Blue variety can compete with the sky blue in brightness

Pink

Ramars Mars or Mars:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink-crimson with a white edging, which turns green over time;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• compact bush.

The bushes of the Ramars Mars (Mars) variety are compact, but the inflorescences are giant

Miss Saori:

• diameter of inflorescences 18 cm;
• inflorescences are dull white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
• blooms until September on the shoots of the current and previous year;
• dark green foliage has a purple tint.

The Miss Saori variety has an original color not only of flowers, but also of leaves.

You & me Love:

• stem height 100 cm;
• blooms continuously from May to September;
• in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in sour, with a high aluminum content - in blue;
• leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
• frost resistance -29 ° C.

The frost-resistant variety You and my love was bred quite recently - in 2015

Red

Admiration:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• flowers are bright red;
• abundant flowering in October on the shoots of the last year;
• the bush has a dense crown.

The Delight variety blooms profusely even in October.

Multicolor

Bavaria:

• diameter of inflorescences 20 cm;
• lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
• profuse flowering until October on last year's shoots;
• compact bush.

Variety Bavaria - a real extravaganza of colors and shades

Hot Red:

• diameter of inflorescences 15 cm;
• red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
• blooms until October on last year's shoots;
• lush bush, does not lie down from massive inflorescences.

Red flowers of the Hot Red variety with high acidity of the soil acquire a purple hue

Schloss Wackerbarth:

• diameter of inflorescences 30 cm;
• inflorescences are pink with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
• flowering on the shoots of last year until October-early November;
• flowers are decorated with light stamens.

Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety.

Often beginners are looking for a variety of "hydrangea mix". You should know that there is no such variety; this phrase means multi-colored hydrangeas in the composition or in the assortment of the store.

Grown houses in a hydrangea pot in the photo

Hydrangea care at home

From too bright sunny color, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, you need to place it on the east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from the window, especially from the southern one. For flowering, diffused light hydrangea is enough.

To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.

The hydrangea thrives best outdoors.Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then regularly ventilate the room, and at high temperatures place it on the northern windows.

Try to take the hydrangea out into the fresh air as often as possible.

Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, like drafts.

Hydrangea needs moist air:

• it is necessary to spray the hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry hot weather;
• in the heat, be sure to place vessels with water next to it;
• a good humidification option: put the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.

Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition for growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.

When watering, use soft water, as the plant is badly affected by excess lime. To do this, you can boil tap water, wait for the sediment to accumulate at the bottom, and drain the clean water.

From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use coniferous litter or chopped pine bark for this.

What materials are used as mulch:

• coniferous litter;
• chopped pine bark;
• coniferous sawdust;
• high-moor peat;
• sphagnum moss.

In autumn, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.

In winter, watering is needed only in order not to dry out the earthy clod and plant roots. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.

Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water, it needs good drainage.

It is necessary to acidify the soil once or twice a month during watering. You can use lemon juice, citric acid for this.

• juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
• citric acid consumption: powder at the tip of a knife per liter of water.

It is necessary to feed the hydrangea from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.

For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.

Dissolve granular nitrogen fertilizers in warm water and water the plant once a week.

The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

For spraying, it is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia), this will also be an additional prevention of pests. They can also water the plant. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

What indicators of acidity and alkalinity of the soil change the color of hydrangea

If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, then there are special feeding for this.

Use special products strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions.

You can use other methods: adding aluminum sulfate or a little liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, necessarily controlling the acidity of the soil.

If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral, if the value is lower, the soil is acidic, with a higher value, the soil is alkaline.

• acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content maintains blue, blue and violet shades of inflorescences;
• neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6-7) maintains light, white colors;
• more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content gives pink and red color.

The optimum acidity for hydrangeas is in the range of 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate strongly alkaline (calcareous) soils! With a strongly alkaline reaction of the soil, the hydrangea cannot absorb iron, it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.

To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.

Soil alkalinity indicators:

• slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
• medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
• strongly alkaline: pH - 8.5 and above.

Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.

Acidity is maintained by coniferous litter, pine bark, high moor peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).

Alkalinity supports the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.

Acidity should be measured a few days after depositing funds. If it "falls short" to the desired value, the application should be repeated.

Inflorescences of red color can be "repainted" in lilac and violet shades, change the pink color to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful color transition.

When using such products, make sure that they do not get on the leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!

Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:

• To change the pink color to blue, red to purple-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
• We change the blue color to pink, stopping feeding with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly in the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7-8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). 1-2 times a month when watering, add potassium permanganate to the water: 5-7 grains per liter of water.

Don't expect instant changes. The color can only begin to change from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.

Pruning: Do's and Don'ts

If the variety is growing slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the growth of hydrangea is fast, then you will have to prune more often.

Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so you cannot cut them off. You can cut off shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting), or from remontant hydrangeas.

If your hydrangea gives an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers, they stand in the water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give life to new plants.

Hydrangeas make up gorgeous bouquets, both single and in the company of other flowers

Faded inflorescences are pruned as they dry above the uppermost bud.

Hydrangea pruning principles:

• if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be cut;
• old, thickened and small shoots are cut off on hydrangeas;
• shoots for thinning are cut in the spring, and sick and dry shoots can be cut off in the fall;
• do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.

Scheme: cut off everything that is superfluous and dry

How to prune a hydrangea:

1. Select dry, excess or too small shoots and trim them with sharp, sterile scissors or pruning shears.
2. Treat the slices with turmeric, herbs or activated carbon powder.
3. You can water the hydrangea a day after pruning, when the slices dry out a little.

The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. 4–5 branches are left on each trunk.

Dormant period

At the beginning of the leaf fall, so that the roots do not rot, watering the hydrangea is reduced. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet commercial soil when you first open the package.

After discarding hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure the temperature is less than 10 ° C.

The hydrangea hibernates best at a temperature of + 5–8 ° C. Therefore, the best option is to take the plant pot to a dry basement. It is necessary not to forget at this time to water the ground a little in order to prevent the death of the root system.

If you don't have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She does not need light at this time.

At the very beginning of spring, the hydrangea should be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.

Table: how to care for hydrangea

Diseases and treatment

Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakening of immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases, be attacked by pests.

The main problems when growing hydrangeas:

• if the hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, then powdery mildew may form on the plant (fungal disease);
• in very dry and hot weather (more than + 27 ° C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
• in extreme heat (more than +30 ° C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
• on alkaline soils (excess lime, more than 8 pH), hydrangea forms chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves;
• with insufficient air and soil moisture, the hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, the roots can dry out;
• with poor drainage and abundant watering, the roots begin to rot, as a result, fungal diseases are formed.

Table: hydrangea problems and their solution

To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-agent based on beneficial bacteria to the soil during watering 1-2 times a month: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.

Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea

Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: soil selection, pot and instructions

It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in all types of soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, sour and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: turf soil 2 parts, coniferous litter 1 part, peat 1 part, chopped pine bark 0.5 part, sand 0.5 part.

From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, conifers.

Hydrangea loves water very much, but in the swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.

Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1–2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.

There should be a 1–2 cm drainage layer at the bottom of the hydrangea pot

The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots have completely filled the space, then repot the plant in a slightly larger pot. Hydrangea roots grow shallowly, but densely.

If the roots began to appear from the drainage hole, it is time to transplant the hydrangea.

On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.

For planting, prepare:

• new pot;
• land;
• drainage;
• mulch: coniferous litter, chopped coniferous bark, coniferous sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
• boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until slightly pink (for watering);
• spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying leaves).

Landing rules:

• When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
• The root collar can be deepened by 2–3 cm;
• The soil is not dried out during transplantation, part of the land remains on the roots;
• After planting, the earth must be tamped so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
• When planting, the roots should be spread down and not bend;
• After transplanting, some of the leaves may fall off the hydrangea - this is normal.

Planting stages

1. We take out the plant from the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife. We take out the hydrangea from the pot, separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife

2. We shake off excess soil from the roots and examine them, if necessary, cut off excess, dry and diseased ones.

   We remove excess soil and examine the root system

3. We pour drainage and a little earth on the bottom of the pot, place a hydrangea in the center and fill the roots with earth 2-3 cm above the root collar. So we place the plant in a new pot
4. We tamp the earth, if necessary, fill up the soil and spill it well.Spray the leaves with warm water. Water the hydrangea with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate and spray the leaves with clean warm water
5. Lay a 1-1.5 cm layer of mulch on top. Pour a layer of mulch on top of the soil

A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.

Video: planting and growing a potted hydrangea

Reproduction of room hydrangea

Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing a bush or seeds. The easiest and most effective way is grafting. Hydrangea, propagated in this way, blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings is easy both in soil and in water.

Cuttings can be made from late May to September.

Cuttings in the ground

For grafting you need to prepare:

• sterile secateurs;
• the drug Kornevin;
• planting substrate (clean sand or infertile soil);
• small low pot;
• shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
• a spray bottle with warm water;
• turmeric or charcoal powder for processing slices.

For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.

Step-by-step process of grafting:

1. Cut off the selected green stalk. Carefully cut off the chosen twig
2. We make a cut under the lower kidney. Cut off the stalk under the lower bud
3. We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud. Cut off the top above the upper kidney
4. Cut off the excess lower leaves. The lower leaves of the cuttings are now useless
5. Trim the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation Leaves should be trimmed by about half
6. We dip the lower cut into Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting slightly at an angle into a dry substrate by 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil and each other. We stick the cutting into the substrate
7. We moisten the substrate abundantly from a spray bottle with warm water. Wet the substrate abundantly with water
8. Powder the slices with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and put them in a shady, cool place for a month. Cover the cuttings to preserve moisture

• it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
• the optimum temperature for rooting is + 18–25 ° C;
• a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
• for winter, cuttings are prepared for rest, like ordinary hydrangeas;
• in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June 1 time per week;
• in May of the following year, after planting, the cutting can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.

Video: how to propagate hydrangea by cuttings

Rooting in water

We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to the water at the tip of a knife. You can add Methylene Blue (available from pet store aquariums). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to slightly tint the water with it to a blue tint.

Methylene blue conditions and disinfects water

Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.

We put the cutting in the water until the roots form and plant it in the ground after the roots grow a little.

Hydrangea cuttings root well in water

The roots usually grow within a month.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).

To split a bush:

• we get the hydrangea out of the pot;
• shake off excess soil;
• we check the roots, if necessary, cut off the dried ones.
• we are looking for a suitable place for separation and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
• we plant delenki according to the usual scheme.

This bush is cut in two

Seed propagation

Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.

• Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture: 4 parts of leafy land, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sand, 1 part of humus;
• You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
• Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination into the water, with which you will moisten the soil from a spray bottle, you can add Epin: 7-8 drops per half liter of water.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds

1. Sow seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
2. Sprinkle with sand on top quite a bit (!). We moisten from a spray bottle and cover with glass or other transparent lid.
3. We put it in a warm, bright place (+ 18–28 ° C). But not in direct sunlight!
4. We monitor the humidity, regularly spray the substrate.
5. We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
6. When shoots appear, remove the glass.

Seeds germinate within a month.

Seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.

When young plants have five leaves, they need to be transplanted.

Hydrangea seed reproduction stage

Small sprouts need to be fed with fertilizer from nitrogen and potassium 2 times a month (watered or sprayed).

Fertilizer composition: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few potassium permanganate granules (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.

Despite the fact that caring for a hydrangea is quite difficult, it fully justifies itself when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with the hydrangea in either the size or the brightness of the inflorescences.