What kind of soil is needed for window grapes?

Every gardener, who sooner or later decided to start growing grapes, wonders about the possibility of breaking a vineyard on his site. Grapes are an unpretentious culture, however, a correctly selected planting site will largely determine the quality of the future harvest. Find out how to find the perfect vineyard site in our article.

What are the criteria for determining a suitable soil for grapes?

The key to the development of a luxurious vineyard is a competent selection of soil composition. Grapes grow best on light soil, which is able to quickly and easily provide the root system with oxygen and water necessary for life. The most suitable rocks are clay and loam, sandy and sandy loam, as well as black soil.

Compound

Mixed soil is ideal. It should consist of sand, clay, stones, organic and mineral substances.

Important! Heavy clay soil poorly conducts water and air, therefore it is categorically not suitable for planting a vineyard. Sandy soil quickly loses moisture and freezes strongly in winter, which leads to the death of young bushes.

Particular attention should be paid to the chemical composition of the soil, since the presence of certain substances will affect the strength of growth and development.

Nitrogen	Influences the formation of proteins in the plant. Its deficiency slows down the growth of bushes, and its excess accelerates the development of green mass, reducing the quality of the fruit.
Iron	Promotes the release of chlorophyll, which is indispensable in the nutritional process.
Potassium	Provides the accumulation of sugar and starch, accelerates metabolic processes, increases frost resistance. Lack of the element leads to the formation of sour berries.
Calcium	Essential for the development of a strong root system. An excess of the substance causes chlorosis.
Magnesium	Participates in the formation of chlorophyll. With a lack of an element, the foliage turns yellow and dies.
Phosphorus	Promotes the development of fruiting organs. Excessive content shortens the growing season and accelerates the formation of bunches.

Acidity

An important element is the level of soil acidity - pH. It can be acidic, neutral and alkaline.
Optimum indicators for normal plant growth and development are considered to be a reaction of the soil environment of about 4.0 - 8.0.

Important! Excessive acidity makes the root system difficult to absorb nutrients. This leads to the need for additional fertilization of the soil. Lime is added to reduce the acidity level.

What soil is suitable for grape cuttings?

• The land for planting seedlings and cuttings is prepared in the fall. It must be well dug up and fertilized. It is necessary to dig holes or trenches so that the soil subsides until spring.
• Prepared shafts are transplanted into containers and placed in a greenhouse or on a windowsill. To do this, you can use humus mixed with peat in equal proportions. A mixture of turf, sand and peat, in a ratio of 0.5: 0.5: 1.0, is also suitable.
• For watering the soil composition, a solution is prepared from 1 liter of water, 1.5 g of ammonium nitrate and 3 g of superphosphate. When the cuttings grow up to 30 cm in height, they can be planted in open ground. At the same time, it is important to wait for spring, when the outside air temperature becomes positive.

Which soil is suitable for the different grape varieties?

Table varieties, which are usually eaten fresh, thrive best in soil containing gravel and sand. Such a composition facilitates nutrition and accelerates the development of the bushes, as well as contributes to the accumulation of the necessary aroma and sweetness.

Soil composition is important for technical grape varietiesused as raw materials for the production of wines. It has a great influence on the taste of wines.

So Cabernet - Sauvignon and Gamay love on clay soil. And Pinot fran, Pinot chardonnay and Folle blanche need carbonate lands with a high concentration of lime.

Light soils with coarse constituents form sourish fine wines. Heavy loams increase the concentration of grape must.

How to choose a place for planting vineyards?

A well-chosen place for a vineyard will not only promote the development of strong and fruitful bushes, but also facilitate the process of caring for the plant. Before proceeding with planting, pay attention to the following elements.

A heat-loving culture requires a lot of sunlight. It is recommended to choose a location with good lighting throughout the day. A well-warmed southern slope is perfect.

The plant is afraid of drafts and strong northerly winds. Planting bushes in close proximity to the walls of buildings will be a good support. They will become a natural barrier from the wind, as well as provide additional heat.

Interesting! Buildings heat up during the day and are capable of storing heat. Thus, the temperature of the outside air near the walls becomes several degrees higher, and the vineyard receives a favorable micro environment.

It is recommended to plant grapes away from other plants, especially trees. It is important to avoid shading and competition for nutrients in the soil.

You should choose a place with a low groundwater content, no higher than 2.0 m. Excessive moisture can lead to slower development and decay of the root system.

If you want to get an environmentally friendly product, you should avoid the proximity to highways. Otherwise, it is necessary to take measures to protect the plants from dust. To do this, you can plant trees or bushes at a distance of at least 3 m from the vineyard.

From the video below you can find out more about transplanting cuttings:

How to prepare soil for planting grapes?

The soil for the vineyard should be loose, light and warm. Its main function is to provide the plant with nutrients, stimulating the formation of a powerful root system. Therefore, it should promote the development of microorganisms, it should be good for air and water.

Before proceeding with planting, the soil must be dug deeply to a distance of about 0.6 - 1.0 m. In this case, the fertile surface layers are placed as low as possible, and the deep ones - outward. To do this, on one side, they dig a trench with dimensions of 70 x 70 cm, where the upper fertile layer is laid. At a distance of 2.5 m from the first trench, the second is being dug. The top layer of soil from the second hole is poured onto the bottom of the first one, and the bottom layer is filled completely. This scheme is used to split the entire vineyard.

You can dig not whole trenches, but holes measuring 70 x 70 x 70 cm. The procedure is carried out in the fall. The trenches are left open for the winter. In this case, the soil settles, moistens and freezes. This creates optimal conditions for planting seedlings.

To increase the permeability of the soil to air and moisture, additional elements are introduced into it. Crushed stone, stones or broken brick are laid to a depth of about 25 cm. You can add manure or humus.

How to improve soil quality in different seasons?

To ensure good growth and development of plants, the land must be kept in optimal condition. It must be watered, fertilized, cleaned of weeds and parasites. The set of mandatory care measures depends on the seasons. Consider how the soil is prepared at different periods.

In the spring

First of all, the soil is dug to a depth of about 5 cm and leveled. Nitrogen is added as mineral fertilizers to accelerate the development of the root system and green mass. Ash will also work. During the growing season, 50 g of ash is mixed with a bucket of water and used for watering the soil. The solution acts as a fungicide, protecting against diseases and pests.

Summer

The soil is periodically loosened, watered and freed from weeds.

In autumn

After harvest, in October or November, the soil must be dug to a depth of about 25 cm. Weeds, fallen leaves and branches must be removed. To retain moisture, large blocks of earth are not crushed. You can apply mineral fertilizers in the form of potassium.
To avoid a lack of iron, when preparing the pits for planting, iron cans or nails are placed on their bottom.

What mistakes do growers make when choosing a soil?

• The strict chemical composition of the soil is unfavorable for grapes. The plant prefers mixtures, rather than a specific soil in its pure form. It is recommended to prepare the soil in advance, adding additional elements as necessary.
• Transplanting bushes of a similar variety to the same land will negatively affect the future harvest and the quality of the vineyard. The soil must be given a time of 1 to 2 years to rest. The earth needs to be cleared of parasites that could have formed in the previous time. It is also necessary to replenish its fertility by introducing additional organic and mineral fertilizers.
• When applying fertilizers, it is important to remember that overuse can adversely affect the vitality of the bushes. They must be used strictly according to the instructions and in the correct proportions.

Important! Organic fertilizers can burn the roots, so they are recommended to be mixed with soil before use.

Popular questions and answers to them

How to increase the permeability of the soil?

Most often, clay soils have this disadvantage. Due to their high density, they are difficult to allow moisture and air to pass through. The problem can be solved by adding crushed stone, gravel, broken brick or sand.

In what proportions should crushed stone and organic fertilizers be applied to improve the quality of the soil?

For each square meter of land allocated for the vineyard, add 1 bucket of rubble and 1 bucket of organic matter.

Will grapes grow on clay soil?

Clean clay soil is heavy and not suitable for planting grapes. She is not able to pass water, nor to retain it. In addition, it has an extremely low level of air movement.

How to find out the soil composition of your site?

You can check the composition of the soil in your home site in the folk way. To do this, prepare a container and fill it with earth by a third. Fill the rest with water. When soil is mixed with water, it will be divided into its component parts. Heavy sand will settle to the bottom, followed by silt, then clay. If about 70% of the mixture settles to the bottom in the container, it means that the soil is sandy. If most of it is located in the center, the soil is silty. The concentration of elements in the upper part indicates clay soils.

How to reduce soil acidity?

At a pH below 6, lime is added to the soil, and if the reaction level is more than 8, gypsum is added.

If you decide to set up a vineyard on your site, remember that this is not difficult. Now you know how to choose the right soil composition and how to increase soil fertility. Competent observance of all recommendations will help you get a beautiful and rich vineyard.

Useful video

Find out more about the soil for grapes in the video below:

To get a generous and tasty grape harvest, you need to take care of the fertility of the soil in advance. For different purposes and age periods, the composition of the soil is different. In the article we will tell you what kind of soil and land should be for grapes, we will give advice on improving the fertility of the soil.

Vineyards are grown on sandy, sandy loam, loamy and clay soils. When structure improvement is carried out, the earth is converted to light loam. The acidity of the soil is from 6 to 8, the optimal level is 6.5 - 7.5. Fertility is high, but not excessive, fungal diseases are actively developing from an excess of fertilizers.

Comparative features of soil for seedlings, green cuttings, layering, shanks, when grown from a stone

• When preparing the soil for seedlings, it is important to dig a large hole for each plant. The poorer the natural land, the larger the pit. The excavated soil is optimized by adding the necessary substances. Often, the improvement of infertile soil is a costly and time-consuming process, then they resort to a complete replacement of the soil. In this case, the landing pit is prepared with a size of 1x1x1 m.
• For grafting grapes with chubuki (one-year-old shoots), a vegetable mixture is prepared from garden soil, sand and humus 2: 1: 1. Planting pots are filled with this substrate. After planting, watered with warm, settled water.
• Reproduction by layering is carried out in a ditch, 30 - 40 cm wide and deep. Add to the soil:

1. humus or compost - 1 bucket per 1 m3 / p,
2. superphosphate - 200 g,
3. potassium sulfate - 50 g.

Mix thoroughly to full depth.

The nutritious dressing ensures the formation of roots in the layers.

• For growing grapes from seeds, a light mixture of sand and humus is used. Planting pots are filled with substrate and placed in a warm and well-lit place.
• Propagating grapes with green cuttings, they combine garden (or vegetable) soil and compost in equal parts. Read also the article: → "How to plant grapes from cuttings."

Measures to improve clay, loamy, sandy loam, sandy soil when planting grapes:

Soil type	Improving substance	Doses
Clay is heavy	Coarse sand	50 - 60 kg / m2
	Grass peat	2 buckets per 1 m2
	Grass peat	1 bucket per 1 m2
Medium loam	Coarse sand	20 - 25 kg / m2
	Grass peat	2 buckets
	Compost	0.5 buckets
Sandy loam	Clay (black earth)	30 kg per 1 m2
	Grass peat	1 bucket per 1 m2
	Manure	4 - 6 kg / m2
Sandy	Complete replacement with purchased soil	—

Plants - indicators growing on soils of different acidity soils

If you look closely at the "wild" plants on the site, you can most likely establish the acidity of the soil.

Grow on acidic soil:

• Horsetail
• Shaggy fireweed
• Horse sorrel
• Sorrel
• Chicken millet
• Buttercup pungent
• Creeping buttercup
• Seradella small
• Violet tricolor
• The plantain is large.

By stonecrop, it is easy to identify poor sandy soil.

Lime soils are preferred:

• Larkspur field (Comfrey)
• Lanceolate plantain
• Field bindweed
• Large-headed ulcer
• Field mustard
• Cleavers
• Sandman white
• Spreading quinoa
• Self-seeding poppy.

If a more accurate characterization of acidity is needed, they resort to using litmus paper. Read also the article: → "Soil acidity: methods of determination and correction." The determination of the soil pH level is carried out as follows:

• Dry crushed soil is poured with distilled (or boiled) water in a 1: 1 ratio.
• The solution is settled so that the soil is completely settled.
• An indicator is immersed in the liquid - litmus paper for a few seconds.
• The strip is compared to the color scale on the package.

Tip # 1. Distilled water can be purchased at a car shop, at a pharmacy, or replaced with boiled water. "Raw" water cannot be used, it contains its own salts, soil analysis will be incorrect.

You can find out the acidity of the soil using chalk:

1. Pour 2 tablespoons of the test soil dry and wiped into the bottle.
2. Add 5 tablespoons of water and 1 tablespoon of chalk.
3. Cover with a fingertip, removing air.
4. Wrap in paper and shake.
5. After a while, a reaction will occur. If the soil is acidic, the fingertip will inflate.

Measurement of soil moisture with a tensiometer

When preparing the soil for planting grapes, it is important to determine its ability to retain water. Best of all, this indicator will be indicated by a special device - a tensiometer. It is easy to use the device, not only numbers are marked on the scale, but also the color characteristic of the state of the soil.

• Blue - excessively wet (wet)
• Blue - waterlogged,
• Green - optimal humidity,
• Yellow-green - lack of moisture
• Orange - a significant lack of moisture
• Orange - red - watering is urgently needed!
• Red is drought.

To determine the moisture content with a tensiometer, it is enough to place it in the handpiece in the soil.

Plants characterizing soil moisture

How much the soil on the site retains moisture will be told by natural vegetation, which is called weeds.

Moisture-loving	Drought tolerant
Marsh marigold	Saxifrage
Black sedge, coastal, marsh	Sedum
Water pepper	Rejuvenated
Forget-me-not swamp	Fat woman
Creeping buttercup	Thyme lean
Meadowsweet	Yaskolka fleecy

Comparative analysis of increasing soil fertility for grapes mulching, sapropel, purchased soil, earthworms

To increase soil fertility by mulching, straw, plant and food residues, sapropel, coal, wheat bran are used.

The entire area of ​​the vineyard is lined with straw, with a layer of 5 cm.

Straw is ideal for sandy soils and arid climates. The disadvantage is that it needs to be harvested in the summer and brought in in the spring, that is, you need a storage space in the winter.

Sapropel is the most versatile fertilizer for all types of soil and an excellent top dressing for grapes. Application rates depend on the organo-mineral composition, which is divided into three categories:

1. "BUT" - a unique fertilizer suitable for any soil, especially effective on sands and sandy loams.
2. "B" - alkaline reaction, therefore, it is used on soils with high acidity. Contains little phosphorus, therefore it is used together with superphosphate or ash
3. "IN" - recommended for natural lands, slightly acidic reaction.

Tip # 2. When purchasing sapropel, familiarize yourself with its composition. It depends on what soils it should be applied on.

Purchased soil is mixed with what is on the site in a 1: 1 ratio during basic preparation. When leaving, mulch with a layer of 5 cm to maintain soil fertility.Fans of organic farming prepare biohumus using earthworms. It is best to use special three-tiered structures. The fertilizer is removed from each section as soon as it is ready. Eggshells are the most valuable soil neutralizing material, they contain 100% calcium. 200 g ground per square meter increases the pH by one scale unit.

Traditional methods of improving the land with manure, poultry droppings, compost, eggshells, yeast, mulch, sawdust

For a long time, winegrowers all over the world have made do with exclusively natural fertilizers, until the minerals industry emerged. Modern gardeners successfully follow a long tradition. For feeding grapes use:

1. Manure - 4-6 kg / m2. Contains the entire range of essential nutrients, enriches and structures the soil. Application features: it is better to apply horse and horse to clay and loamy soils, cow and pork - to sandy, sandy loamy soils.
2. Bird droppings contains a lot of nitrogen, but in an aggressive form. Before use, you need to insist in water 1:15.
3. Peat compost with humus 3: 1, they are kept for at least 5 months, applied in the spring at 3 - 4 kg / m2. The negative side - with constant use, it acidifies the soil, therefore it requires neutralization with chalk, dolomite flour, ash, eggshells.
4. Mulch from straw, sawdust, wheat bran used as MLU (slow acting fertilizer). The litter is laid over the entire vineyard area, in a layer of 5 cm. The cover reduces evaporation, protects against weeds, constantly feeds the grapes, and loosens the soil.
5. Yeast used in ancient times, until they learned how to synthesize EO - drugs. In the process of fertility, the processes of oxidation, fermentation, and decay of plant residues are involved.

Yeast is an important participant in biochemical reactions. They are used in the form of a solution: yeast - 1 kg per 5 liters of water. Before use, dilute with half with water. 1 liter is added under each bush.

The difference between soil preparation for open ground from a substrate for greenhouses and a greenhouse

For growing grapes in greenhouse conditions, the soil mixture is prepared on the basis of garden or vegetable garden, with the addition of peat or compost. The substrate is light and loose. But indoors, it quickly loses its fertile properties due to a lack of natural light and heat. That is why top dressing in greenhouses is carried out more often than in open vineyards. Mineral fertilizers are used, since the organic microflora only needs sunlight for the synthesis of humus.Read also the article: → "How to prepare the soil for planting grapes."

Features of seasonal soil care for grapes - in spring, summer, autumn, winter:

• In the spring - grapes, which were covered for the winter, are freed from protection, sanitary pruning is carried out and nitrogen fertilizers are applied for the growth of green mass. Before bud break, they are fed with phosphorus - potassium fertilizers. Or they add ready-made complex NPK mixtures.
• In summer, after flowering, before the appearance of fruits, phosphorus and potassium are used for better fruiting and water retention in tissues.
• In the fall, after harvesting, it is necessary to strengthen the root system for a successful wintering. This will again help superphosphate, potassium salt. Of organic fertilizers, humus and ash are important.
• In winter, in areas with a cold climate, grapes, insulated with a 10 cm layer of soil and burlap, are covered with additional snow. In the spring, when the bushes open, some gardeners apply complex fertilizers directly over the snow. Dissolving, top dressing is evenly distributed throughout the vineyard.

Disinfection of the soil for the winter from diseases

If fungal diseases are found on grapes in warm weather, then in the fall, in preparation for winter, the vines are treated with preparations based on copper or iron. At the same time, they spray not only the bushes, but also the soil under them. Many pathogens of fungal diseases overwinter in the soil.

Soil care plan for grapes by day (week):

Fertilizer name	Dosage	Terms of introduction
Superphosphate	30 g / m2	March 1 - 15 (before the opening of the grapes from the insulation material)
Growth stimulant "Baikal"	2 tablespoons to 10 liters of water	April 10 - 20 (after removing the winter protection and pruning the vine). Thereafter, every two weeks.
Bird droppings dry	200 g / m2	In the same time frame as "Baikal", it is better at the same time
Ammonium nitrate	50 g for 10 l of water 1 liter per bush	May 1 - 15 (If EO preparations were used, mineral fertilizers should not be applied!)
Fertika complex fertilizer. Garden Garden. Spring. Summer "(or" Blank slate "," Biochelat "," Master "with NPK 15: 5: 30."	According to the instructions on the package gardeners' reviews about Fertik	June 20 - July 10
Potassium salt	15 - 20 g / m2	July 20 - August 15
Phosphorus - potash fertilizers	40 g / m2	October 20 - 30
Humus + ash	1 bucket per 1 m2	October 15 - November 5.

Soil types typical for the Moscow region, the Leningrad region, the Volga region, the Urals, Siberia

• The predominant natural soils of the Northern Moscow Region and the Leningrad Region are acidic waterlogged, requiring drainage, neutralization and the introduction of organic fertilizers.
• In the Volga region, leached chernozems with a high humus content are most often found. Such soils must be neutralized (lower the pH to 6.5) before planting grapes.
• In the Urals and Siberia, the most suitable regions for viticulture are southern. They are distinguished by poor sandy soils, into which peat, organic fertilizers, and sapropel are applied.

Category: "Questions and Answers"

Question number 1... What external signs are manifested with excessive application of fertilizers for grapes?

Leaves change color, become pale. The shoots become thinner, the fruits lose their juiciness and taste.

Question number 2... What to add to the soil from pests and diseases?

It is best to use EO - drugs, they suppress pathogenic flora, strengthen plant tissues, grapes become invulnerable to pests.

Question number 3... What is the difference between the soil for transplanting grapes?

When transplanting, a drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the planting pit, on which garden soil is placed with sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Phosphorus - potassium fertilizers are added to the mixture. For survival, the roots of grapes are treated with a stimulant, for example, "Kornevin".

Serious mistakes gardeners make when preparing and maintaining the soil for grapes

Mistake # 1. During basic preparation and further maintenance, do not take into account the acidity of the soil.

Grapes do not tolerate acidic soil. In such an environment, nutrients do not "reach" the plant, because they react with acidic salts of the soil.

Mistake # 2. Overdose when applying fertilizers.

Just as dangerous as a lack of nutrients. Over-feeding can lead to the death of the grapes.

Mistake number 3. Application of nitrogen fertilizers in the second half of the summer.

Nitrogen stimulates the growth of grapes, and in the middle of summer the "program" changes, all processes are aimed at ripening the fruit. This requires more phosphorus and potassium.

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It seems incredible, but grapes can also be grown in a city apartment. Yes, such a bush needs special conditions, it will require increased care, but you can enjoy grapes just by going out onto the balcony.

Growing grapes on the balcony - light requirements

The grapes love the sun, stretch out in the shade and let out kilometers of thin lashes that are not able to tie a single bunch. So it is preferable to grow it on balconies facing south or southwest.

In addition, it is desirable that the balcony glazing be from floor to ceiling. The more sunlight hits the leaves, the better. Make sure that the side walls of your balcony are covered with reflective material. Ordinary sturdy foil works very well for this. In order for the light to reflect on the vine, and not on the street, the surface of the wall covering should be slightly concave inward.It is also desirable to cover the window to the room from the balcony, along which the vine itself will be fixed, with a reflective film. The room, of course, will be twilight from this, but the grapes will only say "thank you".

Video about grapes on the balcony

In spring and autumn, the grapes at home will need lighting. This is especially true if your balcony is on the north side. Install fluorescent lamps. Additional lighting will be required during one and a half spring months and one autumn. After harvesting, the leaf no longer needs such an intense sunshine, since it no longer produces any nutrients for the ripening of fruits and bark. So in October-November, after removing all the fruits, the lighting can also be turned off. In the spring, do not turn on the backlight until the leaf itself comes out of the bud and the vine begins to actively vegetate.

Grapes at home - temperature

The vine of most varieties is quite frost-resistant, not afraid of frosts at 20, or even 30 degrees. But the roots of the grapes are very tender. Under natural conditions, they go deep into the ground, below the layer of winter freezing, and even protected by a cushion of snow - the best winter heat insulator. Naturally, in the balcony tubs, the earth can freeze to the very bottom. And then it will not be good for your plants: the bush may die and you will only have to hope that it will be possible to restore it by rooting cuttings cut from the surviving vine.

Photo of grapes

It is worth noting that if you have glazed the balcony from floor to ceiling with a modern glass unit, then, in principle, the problem is practically solved. But, in addition to the actual glazing of the window, there is also the problem of cold floors and walls. It is a good idea to insulate the walls before covering the walls with reflective material - the choice of special winter insulation is quite large in any hardware store. The floor also needs to be insulated.

Thus, the temperature of your apartment vineyard, even in the most severe frosts, will not drop to the critical level of soil freezing in tubs. It is best if the temperature on the balcony in winter is between 0 and +10 degrees Celsius. Like in the fridge. This is enough so that the grapes on the balcony do not freeze, but also do not wake up in early growth due to the very mild winter conditions (unless of course you have acquired a thermophilic variety from Spain).

It should be borne in mind that constant drifts of wintering plants into the apartment during the onset of cold weather will not save, and even harm the plants. For a wintering bud, there is nothing worse than regular changes in temperature and humidity: from close to zero temperature to room conditions, from the humid winter climate of the street to the dry, almost deserted air of a heated room.

Photo of grapes on the balcony

Also, when wintering, make sure that the soil in containers with grape bushes does not dry out. Under natural conditions, snow serves as a moisture-preserving factor. At home, mulching can also work. Moisten it from time to time from a spray bottle, but not too often, so that the soil does not sour. Do not cover bushes with plastic.

Soil selection and soil fertilization

Choose the soil moderately nutritious, loose. The soil should not lead to stagnation of moisture. Lay drainage at the bottom. It is better to prefer containers that are rather deep.

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers must be done very carefully and competently.

First, you should never fertilize dry soil in a plant pot. This can lead to an increased concentration of one or another mineral in the root system, or to the non-assimilation of fertilizers introduced into the soil.

Photo of mineral fertilizers

Secondly, each mineral should be applied at a certain period of the growing season of the grapes. This is especially true for macro-fertilizers (Phosphorus, Potassium, Nitrogen).Microfertilizers, as a rule, are applied immediately by the complex at the beginning of the growing season, that is, in the spring, in the summer during the most active period and before the end of the growing season, in the fall.

• The first feeding is best done in the first weeks of March, the buds have already blossomed, and the plant is preparing to lay flower ovaries. This is the most important food for a plant that has survived hibernation. A complex of microelements is introduced over the spilled soil: zinc, manganese, selenium, cesium, magnesium and others. In this top dressing, it is especially important to pay attention to nitrogen-containing fertilizers, since they directly affect the growth of the green mass needed by the grapes at this time of the year.
• This is followed by summer dressing, preferably once a month. All minerals should be included here in equal measure: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements. The main purpose of summer dressings is to strengthen the plant and ovaries.
• Once the bunches have reached their standard size, nitrogenous fertilizers should be completely eliminated. Against this background, it is desirable to increase the proportion of phosphorus and, in particular, potash fertilizers. This arrangement is most conducive to the ripening of berries. If you continue to fertilize with nitrogen during this period, then the strength of the plant will go into building up the green mass, to the detriment of the harvest.

Fertilizer in the photo

• In the process of ripening the berries, refuse to feed the three main minerals. It is only necessary to spray with mixtures of microelements specially designed for better maturation. It is also necessary to reduce watering to a minimum, in order to avoid cracking of the berries.
• We carry out the last, autumn feeding after the harvest. This is the stage of final maturation of the wood for the next year. Again, no nitrogen. More potassium, phosphorus and magnesium. The last dressing should be significantly less in volume and concentration than spring and summer ones. The essence of this top dressing is to create a general mineral background for wintering and the first days after the plant wakes up from winter sleep.

The complex of humic acids is the basis of all soil processes; it is involved in the processing and assimilation of minerals by plant roots. These acids are essential for proper functioning throughout the entire growth cycle. It is recommended to introduce together with mineral dressings, in order to better assimilate the latter.

Hormonal growth promoters in the case of grapes are used to improve fruit set, less ovary shedding and faster ripening. They are applied in three stages: during flowering, during the growth of the ovaries and during ripening. As a rule, in the form of spraying.

Photo of grapes on the balcony

Effective microorganisms, when properly applied to the soil, create beneficial microflora in the pot. They need to be fertilized very competently, strictly following the recommendations of the manufacturers. Labor-intensive at first, the process of breeding microflora in the soil of your indoor plants becomes more and more simple over time, since the main forces are no longer applied to breeding, but to maintain a stable bacterial background of the soil. It is advisable not to combine the introduction of beneficial microflora into the soil with mineral fertilizing.

Formation

The shape of fruit trees should in no way be determined by whim or arbitrariness. Nikolay Goshe

At home, the bush is formed in the same way as in the open field. The main essence of the formation is the abandonment of the replacement knot, or fruit link. To do this, it is worth deciding on the three types of wood that we have from a grape plant. First, this is the oldest part - a dark colored branch. This piece of wood is at least two years old. Vines of a shiny brown color grow from the branch. Lohse is one year old. Last summer, it was a green shoot that sprouted from a bud, and now green shoots grow from it, on which clusters of berries are tied.

Forming is best done in autumn, when summer green shoots mature into vines and vines become twigs.

Video about grapes on the loggia

Choosing the most powerful new vines. We divide them into pairs. In each pair, cut one vine shortly, leaving at most 2 or 3 buds. Cut the other two-thirds. We got a fruit link. Now, next year, fruit lashes that carry crops will go from the long vine, and shoots will also grow from the short vine, but they will be more powerful than those from the long vine, since there are only a few of them and they will get more nutrients from the roots.

In the fall, when the harvest is ripe, without any regrets, we cut a long vine to the very base. From the ripened green shoots of another, short vine, we again leave two, one we shorten to two or three buds, the other we leave long. This is our new fruit link, or replacement knot. Thus, we repeat every year. That's the whole rule of forming grapes. One vine bears the harvest of the coming year, and the other, in short, is aimed at a more distant future.

Step-by-step instructions for growing grapes at home

1. So it's spring. You have a young grape seedling. We plant it, slightly deepening so that the lower leaf does not touch the soil, otherwise plant decay may develop
2. We fertilize: in the first half of the growing season with nitrogen fertilizers, then with phosphorus and potash fertilizers closer to autumn.
3. The grapes in the apartment should ripen in the same way as in the open field. We slightly reduce the watering regime by the second half of summer.
4. We tie the vines to the walls and ceiling as they grow, so that they do not trudge along the floor.
5. By the fall, our grapes become large and beautiful. We find four or six ripe green shoots in it. We divide each into pairs and carry out the operation of forming the fruit link. Cut off the rest of the vines. They will only take away extra strength and juices from the plant next year.
6. We lay the plant for the winter. You can mulch the soil with peat, needles or foliage.
7. We cover the bush with a non-woven covering material, and periodically spray it with a spray bottle all winter so that the plant does not dry out.
8. In the spring, at the end of March, we open the bush, unweave and raise our vines. We turn on additional lighting. We will need it almost until mid-May. We water and fertilize. Only now, our goal is to tie berries, so we do not indulge in nitrogenous fertilizers and excessive watering.
9. When flowering, we open the balcony windows and do not interfere with the pollination of the inflorescences. It is worth noting that if in the second year you do not see flowers on your grapes, do not be discouraged, take care of the bush, as in the first year, it is just that it has not yet developed its root system enough. Cut it back into fruit links in the fall.
10. When the first ovaries go, we remove the nitrogen from the fertilizers. In the process of ripening the berries, we cut and water. There is one more threat to your crop worth mentioning - wasps. Wasps are notorious for sweets and can significantly spoil your harvest, so make sure they do not visit your vineyard.
11. So, the harvest is ripe, removed from the bush. You should again shape new fruit links for next year and cut off all excess wood. Also, the fall of the second year is a good time to change the soil in the pot. Remove the topsoil carefully, being careful not to damage the roots, and replace it with new soil. That's it, the plant is ready for winter.

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As you know, for any plant to develop well and bear fruit, it needs good nutrition. In addition, each species has its own preferences for the composition of the soil. So, clay soils "love" fruit trees and shrubs. Sandy "prefer" raspberries and grapes, loamy soils - most vegetables. Good, nutritious, plant-friendly soil means you are guaranteed a bountiful harvest! How to prepare the soil for the grapes, what kind of fertilizers to apply, so that later you can enjoy tasty and juicy fruits for many years? We will talk about this further.

Grapes have their own preferences for soil composition.

What kind of soil is suitable for grapes?

There are several types of soils: loamy, clayey, calcareous, sandy, and peaty. As a rule, in nature there is no one or another soil in a "pure" form. One type or another may prevail on our sites.
Loamy or sandy loam soil is most suitable for cultivating a vineyard. For the full development of plants, it must contain the following nutrients: phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron. You also need aluminum, sodium, zinc, etc.

How soil minerals affect the growth of grapes

Potassium allows grapes to tolerate frost better, increases the formation of starches and sugar in grapes. Thanks to potassium, metabolic processes in the plant are accelerated. If there is a lack of potassium in the soil, then the grapes will be more acidic.

Potassium allows grapes to tolerate frost better

Iron is essential for the formation of chlorophyll. Magnesium is also involved in its synthesis. With a lack of this substance, the leaves on the vine will turn yellow and die off.
Nitrogen is the basis of proteins, thanks to which the plant develops. But in the soil for grapes it should be in moderation. If there is not enough nitrogen in the soil under the grapes, the shoots will be undersized, if there is an excess, then, on the contrary, there will be a lot of leaves, and the berries will become watery and not so tasty.
For the formation of a branched and strong root system, the soil under the grapes must contain sufficient calcium. And also thanks to him, the berries will be more fragrant. However, if there is an excess of calcium, then the plant can develop chlorosis.
Phosphorus is necessary for grapes for faster ripening of fruits. This substance is also part of the proteins that make up the base of the plant.

What is the correct pH?

Vines develop and bear fruit best when the soil pH under the vineyard is between 4.0 and 8.0. In no case should an acidity level higher than 8.2 be allowed. and then in this case the amount of salts in the ground should not be more than 20%.

How to prepare the soil for grape seedlings

Grape cuttings are planted in cups or boxes, which are filled with specially prepared soil. For example, you need to mix humus, sand, soil from the site and sawdust in a ratio of 1.3: 0.5: 1: 1 and pour a solution of 1.5 grams of nitrate per 1 liter of water. Or - the second option is to mix sand, turf and low-lying peat in a ratio of 0.5: 0.5: 1. Or - humus with low-lying peat in equal proportions. The solution for irrigation is the same.
Cuttings in pots with such soil are placed on a windowsill or in a greenhouse. When they reach 20-30 cm, they can be transplanted to a permanent place. Do not let the land under the vineyard dry out.

Prepare the sleigh in the summer, and the land for the vineyard in the fall

For planting seedlings in the spring, the land on the site begins to be prepared in the fall. The selected place is dug up, fertilized with organic and mineral substances. In the spring, they loosen again and form the beds, elongated in length. It is also useful to mulch the land under the grapes with dry grass, sawdust or straw. The mulch layer can be up to 10 cm.
Water the soil under the vineyard often, but little by little. 80–85% HB is the best moisture during the growing season of grapes. (HB is the smallest moisture capacity). The soil under the grapes also requires constant weeding.

How to transplant grapes without killing them

Sometimes, when re-forming the site, you have to replant the vines. This is a real challenge for plants. In order for them to take root in a new place as quickly as possible, you need to thoroughly prepare the land.

It is better to transplant grapes in the fall.

It is better, if possible, to produce it in the fall, in October. Autumn rains shed well the soil under the vineyard, and during the winter the vine will grow the required number of roots. If your site is located in the south, then the vineyard is not terrible in winter - the soil will not freeze enough to damage the vine. The spring transplantation of grapes on a new land can be fraught with the fact that plants that did not have time to get stronger will be forced to withstand the summer heat, and this will be disastrous for them.
A hole for transplanting vines is cultivated in a month.During this time, it will settle, and the introduced nutrients in large quantities will begin to rot and create a favorable microclimate in the soil under the grapes. Loosening, fertilization, watering of the place where the vine is planned to be transplanted is constantly required.
Tip: When preparing the hole, add a handful of barley seeds to it. Grape branches and leaves cut earlier are not added to the compost, but first they are burned, and then the plants are fertilized with this ash. The soil under the vineyard should be given a couple of years of rest, and only then a new vine should be planted in this place.

Vineyard care

During its growth and fruiting, grapes take nutrients from the earth and impoverish it. In order for the land under the grapes not to lose its fertile qualities, they add to it:

• Minerals. Nitrogen is added to the soil in the summer, potassium - when digging in the fall. Thanks to this, the root system, leaves and trunk of the vine develop better. Mineral fertilizers allow for higher yields.
• Compost is added to the soil under the grapes every year. This allows the vine to grow better. The ideal compost is mixed old leaves, food waste, rotten vegetables, etc. that have been in the pit for more than 8 months.
• Manure is added once every 2-3 years. For the land under the vineyard, it is best to add horse manure. It has a beneficial effect on the structure of the soil, it contains all the nutrients needed by grapes.
• Siderata. Before planting grapes, mustard, rye, legumes are planted on the site and then they are dug up 2 weeks before planting the seedling. This saturates the earth with proteins and nitrogen.
• Iron. It is often lacking in the soil. You can water it with iron-containing preparations, or just put rusty nails or iron cans on the bottom of the hole.
• Ash. Thanks to her, the soil becomes loose, rich in minerals, acidity decreases. Can be added during digging - in autumn or spring, or diluted in water (50 grams per bucket) and water the soil under the grapes. Ash protects against pests and fungi, it is also an excellent fungicide and insecticide available to everyone.

  During growth and fruiting, grapes take nutrients from the ground

• Watering. It is not good to underfill or overflow the soil under the vineyard. Mulching can interfere with the rapid evaporation of moisture. Drip irrigation systems are convenient.

Choosing a place on the site

The vine site must be tricky in good, fertilized soil. The development of plants is influenced by illumination, the proximity of buildings, which in cold weather will give additional warmth and protection from the wind.

It is best not to plant grapes next to trees. The leaves of the trees can block the vines from the sun, and the roots can take up nutrients and interfere with growth.

The ground under the vineyard must have water at a depth of at least 2 meters. And the crown of trees planted at a distance of 3 m can protect the vine from road dust.

The best location for a vineyard is the southern or southwestern slope, which is not accessible to livestock and poultry.

You need to take care of the vineyard all year round

The main care is timely watering, loosening, mulching, fertilizing and weeding. Weeds take up nutrients and moisture and prevent the soil from breathing under the vineyard.

In the fall, it is planned to dig to a depth of 25 cm and apply fertilizers. Weeds are removed. In the spring, when the soil ceases to "stick" to the shoes, it is dug up again, harrowed with a rake.

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