How to grow green beans outdoors?

Due to its unpretentiousness and good yield, not only grain, but also green beans are popular among domestic summer residents. Planting and caring for a crop does not require much experience and cost, therefore it is suitable for all gardeners. A large varietal variety allows for the successful cultivation of green beans in any region. The article discusses the advice of gardeners - planting green beans and care, how to prepare seeds and soil for planting in open ground, as well as pest control and other useful tips.

Green beans (asparagus)

Many gardeners who cultivate beans on their own in their summer cottage recognize the most delicious variety of plants as green beans - asparagus is distinguished by longer pods, but the principle of planting and caring for them is about the same. Growing and caring for beans is not too difficult, and the juicy and satisfying product is ready to serve in the summer. Fresh green pods are also available to those who do not have personal land - you can successfully grow asparagus beans at home - on a glassed-in balcony or windowsill.

Asparagus beans differ from regular green beans in longer pods.

Planting and caring for green beans

Asparagus and green beans are one species, more precisely, asparagus is one of the green beans. It is distinguished by the large length of the pods and the absence of clear forming grains inside them. In addition, the flaps themselves are softer, since they do not grow a hard layer of parchment, which gives them good culinary qualities.

Green beans are a low-calorie food packed with many vitamins, amino acids, organic acids, flavonoids and minerals. It is widely used in cooking as a vegetable ingredient in salads, side dishes, first and second courses. The asparagus variety got its name from its characteristic taste, reminiscent of asparagus.

Green Bean Varieties

• The purple queen. An interesting bush variety that combines fruit and decorative functions. Produces dark purple pods up to 15 cm long. The variety is not afraid of many diseases and is suitable for planting in different regions.
• Crane.A compact plant reaching half a meter in height. Non-capricious variety with enviable productivity. The delicate taste of the fiberless pods is excellently preserved in canning and in freezing.
• Sachs 615 (without fiber). A bushy early ripe hybrid with a height of up to 45 cm and green pods up to 12 cm. It is very popular due to its high-vitamin composition.
• The oil king. Shrub variety with a growing season of 55 days. By the end of summer it produces yellow pods with a distinctive flavor.
• A widespread, fast-ripening curly variety, the pods of which grow up to 13 cm in length. Up to 10 pods are harvested from one plant per season.
• Winner. Curly flat-pod variety that decorates the garden with fiery red flowers during flowering. Brings flattened fruit pods up to 30 cm long.
• Caramel. Early ripening fiberless beans, called by many summer residents the best among the species. Produces short pods with large seeds inside. The plant is popular for its high immunity to common viruses.
• Fatima. A variety of curly beans with a medium ripening period. Growth can be 3 meters, but the foliage is always average. The pods are straight in shape - they can be 21 cm each. They have a good taste and a delicate, fibrous structure.
• Panther. Another bushy variety with yellow, fibrous fruits. Differs in high resistance to fungal diseases and a special spicy taste.
• Hell Rem. Curly variety with light pods and rare lilac-pink grains. Differs in characteristic mushroom aroma and high resistance to pests and diseases.
• Neringa. A bush bean variety that ripens in 7-9 weeks. Gives green long (14-16 cm) pods with juicy leaves without parchment layer. The plant bears excellent fruit in different conditions, is versatile in processing.
• Deer king. A bushy variety of green beans with extremely tasty fruits. The bright yellow ripe pods have dense white grains inside. In warm regions, it is possible to harvest twice a season.
• Bona. A plant with a compact bush up to 40 cm in height. It gives rounded pods 13-16 cm long without a parchment layer with 5-6 white seeds. It is appreciated by gardeners for its immunity to diseases, good productivity and versatility. Ripens in 50-75 days after sowing.
• Blue Lake. A tall variety that needs solid support. The green pods grow up to 16 cm in length and reach maturity 50-56 days after the sowing date of the beans. Small white seeds form inside. It is a fruitful hybrid with decent resistance to infection and disease.
• Sweet courage. A shrub plant with fast maturation. Differs in cylindrical yellow pods, growing up to 16 cm in length.
• Gina. A bushy early ripe variety with slightly curved pods up to 17 cm long. It has excellent qualities that are preserved during canning. Highly prized for its productivity and disease resistance.
• Paloma. Dutch beans for early sowing. Bears abundantly in 11-12 cm dark green pods. Versatile in culinary use.
• Bergold. A high-yielding bush variety with soft pods without parchment. Slightly curved fruits grow up to 14 cm in length and keep well in ice cream or canned.
• Nagano. Asparagus beans from a Dutch manufacturer. Suitable for sowing from early to medium terms. High resistance, good yield with 13 cm pods. Good in freezing and preservation.
• Mascott. Western low-growing variety with ripening in 50-55 days after breaking through the seedlings. For dense, fiberless pods with a pleasant crunch, Mascott is very fond of the French. Can be grown at home on a windowsill.
• Pensioned Under Black Wax. Low-rise Italian beans with bushes up to 40 cm in height.Differs in good yield, excellent commercial qualities of fruits, high immunity. The pods grow up to 15 cm and are well preserved in conservation and freezing.
• Kentucky Blue Pole. Favorite by many American farmers, beans have a 65-day growing season. A climbing plant with a total length of up to 2.5 meters. It is very similar in growth and fruit characteristics to the Blue Lake variety.
• Gold Mine. Bush beans, called by some summer residents super-sweet. Strong, upright bushes yield up to 800 grams of juicy pods.
• Serengeti asparagus beans. Planting of this early maturing variety is possible in all climatic zones. This variety is distinguished by resistance to many diseases, as well as pleasant taste characteristics and high yields.

On a note!

For middle and northern latitudes, you should choose among early maturing or mid-ripening hybrids that ripen in 50-80 days. Late-ripening varieties of beans are suitable for cultivation in the south, as they reach ripeness no less than 100 days after sowing.

Green Beans: Planting and Caring for the Right Place

Green beans planting and care

The first thing to think about before planting beans is the ideal garden plot. To allocate a place for this plant at the last moment, where it works out, is incorrect, since it is rather capricious in relation to the illumination and the nature of the soil:

• In the initial stages of development, beans require intense, but not unnecessarily long exposure to sunlight. They should get on plants no longer than 12 hours a day.
• Curly bean varieties should be planted next to a support for lifting branches, and if there is none, make a trellis yourself. Planting of three plants with a support in the form of a high tripod is practiced.
• Beans grow well and bear fruit when planted after potatoes, onions, cucumbers, carrots, cabbage, and other root vegetables.
• Poor precursors for green beans are sunflowers, legumes and legumes, and perennial herbs like clover.
• Bush varieties of green beans grow well in the aisles of potatoes and cabbage, they do not need supports for weaving.

When planting green beans in open ground

In most cases, sowing seeds of green beans is carried out in the middle of May - early June. The main indicator is the degree of warming up of the earth at the depth to which they are embedded (5-6 cm). The temperature here must be at least + 10˚C. Basically, in the Russian regions, frosts should be over by this time. If, according to the weather forecast, a repeated decrease in temperature is promised, the crops will need to be covered with polyethylene or non-woven garden cloth.

Planting green beans up to a depth of 60 mm on very loose soils. The harder the soil, the closer to the surface the seeds should be placed so that the soil structure does not interfere with germination. Landing scheme:

• for bush varieties: 15-20 cm between holes and 35-40 cm between rows, the optimal number of rows for cross self-pollination is 4;
• for climbing varieties: 20-30 cm between holes with the obligatory presence of a strong non-plastic support (branches can grow very heavy).

In both cases, it is recommended to throw 2-3 beans into the holes in order to have a guarantee of germination. At least one of them will definitely break through. And if several come up, then you just need to choose the strongest among them, and pull out the rest.

After sowing, you need to water the garden and slightly press down the soil with a rake. When punching seedlings, they must be hilled in a timely manner to impart greater stability and accelerate development.

How to prepare soil and green bean seeds

It is good if the site chosen for planting will consist of nutritious soil and, more importantly, well-drained soil. The lush soil will allow the beans to self-feed on nitrogen from the root nodules.It is not worth risking planting in clay soils or areas with a close passage of groundwater - the seeds may simply not sprout.

To increase the yield, the soil must be enriched with humus or heated compost before deep digging. Ammonium nitrate with the addition of calcium chloride and superphosphate is also a useful additive. Nitrogen is not needed - if you constantly make the soil loose, it will be extracted in excess by the plants themselves.

Presowing treatment of beans:

1. Sort out the grains, discarding the damaged ones.
2. Soak in thawed water at room temperature for no longer than 12 hours.
3. Before sowing for 3-5 minutes, lower the beans in a solution of 2 g of boric acid and 10 liters of water.

Asparagus beans: planting and caring for seedlings

Planting and care of asparagus beans

To germinate seeds before sowing, you can use the following method:

1. Pour them into a linen bag (or tie them with a cloth) and immerse them in a light solution of potassium permanganate heated to 35-40˚C.
2. Rinse the grains with clean running water and wrap them in a damp cloth for 5-6 days. It is necessary to maintain its moisture content during this period.
3. At temperatures in the range of + 20- + 30˚C and being in a humid environment, the seeds germinate quickly.

It is advisable to sow seedling beans in April. Moreover, it is necessary to place crops in a greenhouse or under a film, since at first they are extremely sensitive to temperature conditions.

It is better to plant according to the 6 × 6 cm scheme - it will be convenient for the plants themselves to grow, but also for the gardener to take care of them. Seeds for seedlings should be laid at a depth of about 2 cm.

Care features:

• for germination and good development of shoots, you need to constantly water the soil, but at the same time maintain its looseness;
• after the initial weeding, you can start feeding the plantings with a mullein (1: 6 with water) or ammonium nitrate (20 g per 1 m2);
• you should not just flood the seedlings - the soil is needed moist, but without standing water - so the seeds can ferment;
• during the summer, it is necessary to carry out such a make-up several more times, but about 40 g of superphosphate should also be added to 10 liters of the mixture;
• to protect against low temperatures in the cold season, it is necessary to cover the seedlings with straw compost or melted manure in autumn.

A significant part of the seedlings will most likely still be unsuitable for further cultivation. Therefore, in the spring, before replanting, it is necessary to select suitable plants. Good candidates should have a solid root system, 5-7 good shoots and a healthy appearance.

Asparagus beans planting and care in the open field

How to plant asparagus beans outdoors

For cultivation from seeds in the open field for asparagus beans, it is necessary to allocate naturally illuminated areas with light and nutritious soil. A bonus to productivity will be if potatoes, cabbage, onions or carrots were grown in this land last season. Beans take root very reluctantly on clay soils and soils with close underground waters.

In areas with long cold winters, it is better to start growing asparagus beans in a greenhouse, so as not to waste time due to insignificant heating of the soil. This crop is very sensitive to cold weather and usually dies at temperatures below + 5˚C. Because of this, the already sown beans are wrapped in foil when there is an unexpected cold snap.

If asparagus beans have already grown on a specific site, it is recommended to re-organize cultivation from seeds only after 4 years. This is not a problem, given that after this plant, which enriches the soil with nitrogen, any garden crops grow well.

In the autumn months, the land for asparagus beans is enriched before deep digging with organic matter, potassium chloride and superphosphate in a volume of 7 kg / m2, 45 g / m2 and 25 g / m2, respectively. Before planting from seeds in the country, a fertilizer complex with a high proportion of potassium should be applied at the rate of 25 g / m2.After laying the seed, experts advise sprinkling the bed with humus on top and feeding the beans with mineral mixtures up to 3 times during the season. Application scheme: in small grooves, parallel to the rows at a distance of 15-20 cm. One recharge is mandatory in the bud setting phase.

Landing

Seeds of asparagus beans are sown similarly to any other legumes. this should be started when the earth warms up at a depth of 50-60 mm to + 10˚C and the frost stops. The previously selected beans are first soaked for up to 10 hours in melt water for better germination. Many summer residents slightly tint the water with potassium permanganate and add growth accelerators there, but this is not an obligatory practice. It is also believed that it is not necessary to soak the seeds if the soil is moist enough when planting.

For a few minutes before laying, the beans are also kept for 5 minutes in an aqueous solution of boric acid (0.2 g / l), for increased immunity to diseases. Next, the seeds are placed in several pieces in holes 3-5 cm deep. In one furrow for bushy varieties of beans, 10-15 cm should be left between the grooves, and the grooves should be located at a distance of 25-30 cm relative to each other. Curly hybrids should be placed at a distance of 20-30 cm between themselves and 0.5 m between the rows.

Excessive moisture is something that asparagus bush beans do not like very much. Growing should be accompanied by moderate but regular watering once a week, doubling the volume during the flowering period. After watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil around the plants so that air access to the root nodules does not stop. It is also necessary to constantly pull out the weeds, as they deplete the soil. To increase the yield, it is recommended to apply two additional fertilizing from mineral complex fertilizers during the cultivation process.

Asparagus beans: growing from seeds at home

Asparagus beans can be grown quite successfully indoors, for example, on a glassed-in loggia or a well-lit windowsill. Better, of course, to choose bush varieties that do not rise above 50 centimeters in height. Curly varieties can be planted on the balcony, not about this you need to be prepared that they will entwine it from the inside, turning it into an indoor jungle.

Asparagus beans - greenhouse cultivation

Planting can be carried out either by direct sowing into a growing container or by seedling through peat pots. Planting time depends on individual conditions, you can even organize year-round cultivation. For such a crop cultivation, the varieties Mask, Fatima, Violetta, Zelenopodrukovy 517 and the Golden Neck are well suited.

Growing at home often requires additional lighting equipment, but plants do not need a long daylight hours. The soil for planting should consist of two-thirds of garden soil and one-of humus. You need to constantly keep it loose. Top dressing is desirable - it is enough to use complexes with potassium and phosphorus a couple of times a month. Overexposing the crop on the branches is only when collecting seed.

Growing asparagus beans in Siberia

Siberia is a rather harsh region in terms of weather, with short summers, which does not have the best effect on growing crops. Most varieties of beans grow reluctantly in such conditions, therefore, when planting and caring, the following recommendations should be adhered to:

1. Due to the short season, the earliest varieties should be chosen.
2. Beans are thermophilic, so you have to wait for favorable weather. Sowing is usually carried out not earlier than the end of May. In cold spring, it is better to think about seedling planting.
3. Seeds are best planted dry, without soaking.
4. Beans must be hilled after the sprouts are higher than 10 cm so that they do not die from the wind or their own weight.
5. It is imperative to tie up climbing plants, since there is a lot of precipitation and leaves and pods on the ground can rot.
6. During a cold snap, it is better to cover the beans with a film material.

Harvesting should be done when the pods are ripe. When planting early maturing varieties, the collection begins in August. After removing the ripe fruits, they should be left to ripen in the air, hanging or spreading out under a canopy. This allows the remaining pods to mature faster. With the onset of frost below -1˚C, the plant can be completely pulled out and suspended to ripen.

Growing green beans: care after planting

Before the plants enter the flowering phase, the optimal frequency of watering will be 1 time per week. And this is counting on hot weather. If summer does not pamper with heat, then you need to adjust the intensity, looking at the deciduous part of the beans - an excess of moisture provokes its growth. At the beginning of flowering, you need to double watering. Also, after each watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil so that a crust does not form, which prevents the flow of air to the roots.

Superphosphate feeding can be done after the appearance of the ovary with leaves. The second feeding - while tying the buds, using potassium salt.

After the plants reach a height of 2 meters, you need to stop their growth by pinching the top. This, by the way, provokes the formation of ovaries.

Pest control

Common diseases for beans are powdery mildew, white rot, rust, bacteriosis and legume ascochitis. The safest way to avoid them is to choose high-quality seed material, so it is better that it is purchased in a good place and meets GOST.

When affected by powdery mildew, white dust or a film appears on the pods and foliage. To prevent the spread of infection, these parts must be torn off and discarded or even incinerated. After that, the bushes should be sprayed with a solution of milk powder and water (1: 9) twice a week. Experienced gardeners also recommend adding 1 part baking soda or apple cider vinegar to the solution.

The harvest time depends on the characteristics of the variety, namely, the growing season. The best time of the day to harvest is in the morning, when the dew is still on the pods. It is better not to overexpose the removed fruits, but to collect them while they are green and juicy.

Video: how to plant green beans

Video: caring for green beans in the garden

The cultivation of green beans in summer cottages is becoming widespread. Not so long ago, only large farms grew this useful product. You can buy green pods without any problems - fresh, in the vegetable departments of supermarkets, or frozen, in the refrigerators of all stores, mostly imported products. Meanwhile, it is not difficult to grow this "green miracle" in the country. The most important thing in growing green beans, unlike other legumes, is to harvest on time. Do not overexpose the pods in the garden, making them tough and tasteless.

Green beans: growing and care

The oldest representative of legumes

Beans are reasonably considered by biologists to be the oldest cultivated plant on the planet. There are officially three botanical types of beans.

1. The shelling, from which the beans are obtained, is characterized by a dense parchment shell.
2. Semi-sugar - this species has a parchment shell of medium hardness.
3. Sugar, aka asparagus, in which there is no parchment shell at all, but there is a green, juicy and soft one.

In the garden culture, it is customary to call the latter type of green beans, which are eaten together with the pods. In contrast to peeling varieties, the pods of which are not suitable for food.

Useful properties of green beans

Beans can be divided into two more types according to the growth method.

1. Curly.
2. Shrub.

When growing all types of beans, the basic agrotechnical standards are observed, which include the following points.

1. Beans do not tolerate sandy, acidic and too heavy soils.
2. Loves light, humidity, warmth, drought with difficulty. If the dry season falls on flowering time, the ovary may fall off and there will be no harvest.
3. Beans don't like drafts and winds. The plant must be grown quietly.
4. Sowing is carried out no earlier than the soil warms up to + 13 ° C (May - June).
5. Sowing is preceded by the procedure of warming up and soaking the seeds.
6. The seeds of the plant are buried no more than seven centimeters.
7. Seedlings of all varieties must be loosened and preferably mulched.
8. When the stem grows back by 15 centimeters, the plants need to be spud.
9. For climbing varieties, you need to provide support immediately upon planting.

Varieties of green beans

By the way! Not all varieties have classic green pods. In some, the fruits are whitish, yellowish and even bright yellow, purple. Therefore, it is better to be guided when collecting not by the color of the fruit, but by the period of the expected milk ripeness, which is indicated on the package with the seeds.

Growing

Green beans are thermophilic, but not too warm. This is not an exotic representative of the African flora, which must be carefully grown in seedlings and planted only when the very last of possible frost threats has passed. Beans, along with other garden crops, can be safely sown in the spring directly on the ridges, having subjected the beans to preliminary presowing treatment.

Sowing beans on ridges

How to process beans before sowing

Bean seeds need to be warmed up. And it's best to do it naturally, not on a battery, but in the sun. In industrial agricultural technology, they are heated in special dryers, where the temperature is maintained at + 30 ° C ... 35 ° C. The process takes two days. An acceptable option for summer residents is warming up by the sun. To do this, the seeds must be placed on the southern windowsill and kept there for at least a week. After that, the beans must be soaked. A day spent by seeds in warm clean water (change the water four times) will be enough.

Soaking beans before sowing

How to cook a bed for beans

The soil needs a normal alkaline reaction, in any case, not acidic. Wood ash or dolomite flour will help remove acidity. If you are not sure about the acidity parameters of the soil on the site, add ash to the hole anyway, it will help the plant develop better.

Removing the acidity of the earth with wood ash

Sandstones and heavy clay soils will not work. It is best if the soil is light, fertile, moderately drained.

An important parameter for green beans, especially curly varieties, is the absence of wind. The site should be selected not only warmed up, but also protected from the winds. It is better to place the plants in partial shade than in a draft.

Before sowing the beans, be sure to rid the garden bed and the surrounding paths of weeds. Tomatoes, potatoes and different types of cabbage will be excellent precursors for the crop.

Do I need to remind you that the site intended for growing beans needs to be dug up and filled with fertilizers in the fall. Be sure to organic - traditional 6 kg per square meter, superphosphate - 35 g, potassium chloride - 20 g.

In the spring, it is also necessary to add a complex that has a high potassium content - this element of green beans is needed more than all other garden plants.

Sowing seeds

The seeds have been prepared, the ridge is waiting for new "tenants". When starting sowing, it is necessary to decide on what scheme to carry out it.

By the way! The sowing depth of beans depends on the density of the soil. If the mechanical composition is light, it can be buried. If heavy, sow as much as possible to the surface. But in all cases, the range of beans sowing depth is 2-7 cm.

Bush varieties are sown in rows (two, three) or staggered. Holes of a given depth are made. Each hole contains two beans.Try to keep a distance of about 25 cm between the holes, and between the rows: two - 45 cm, three - 35 cm.

Curly Bean Supports

Curly varieties are sown differently. By the way, there are still semi-creeping varieties. Sowing them is carried out in the same way as climbing. Before sowing, strong supports are installed on the prepared and treated ridge. They can be of any design and from any available materials. You can bend strong wire into arcs, put U-shaped or X-shaped stakes, pipes, plastic slats. A mesh frame stretched over the frame will also do. The main thing is that the lashes of the plant have something to cling to.

The holes are made in the immediate vicinity of the support pillars. It is along them that the beans will climb up to the light and a good harvest. The distance between the holes can be reduced here - 20 cm is enough.

Video - Support - pyramid for beans

Video - How to make a support for beans

Seedlings and care

Beans sprout, despite the hard shell and the impressive size of the seed, not for long. A strong sprout emerges from the soil already on the sixth day after sowing. The main thing is the right temperature. For successful germination in the daytime, it should be about + 20 ° С.

Bean seed germination

Young sprouts are sensitive to the cold at night. That is why, at the slightest threat of a minus on the ground, it is necessary to cover them with spunbond overnight. And on the eighth - tenth day, all seedlings must be hilled.

Then, after the plants reach the fifteen-centimeter growth mark, they must be huddled again. And repeat the procedure several times throughout the season, as the soil subsides after watering.

Advice! As soon as the lashes of curly varieties of beans grow to a length of two meters, their ends must be pinched. This will increase fruiting.

Mid-season green beans, with proper care, will begin to bloom massively on the fortieth day after germination. It will take another three weeks for the formation of full-fledged ovaries. And after that - attention! Harvesting of green bean pods begins ten days after ovary formation. If you miss this moment and overexpose the pods on lashes for at least a week, their taste will deteriorate significantly.

Bean Care Tips

Fertilizers

In addition to preliminary autumn and spring soil dressing, green beans will need additional feeding. At least twice more during the growing season, you will have to feed the crop - when it enters the budding phase, and at the beginning of the fruiting phase.

Fertilizer - superphosphate mixed with wood ash (15 /
50 g per square meter). If there is, you can add a complex with a high content of molybdenum, boron and manganese to the feeding. If there is no special fertilizer containing these three trace elements, ordinary potassium permanganate will help to get out of the situation. A medium pink solution is poured over the leaves and into the hole.

Watering

For green beans, moisture is important, especially climbing varieties suffer from a lack of watering. But it is necessary to water intensively and often the beans only during the period of forcing the whips and budding. As soon as the ovary begins to form, watering should be done less often, but more abundantly, and the soil around the bushes should be mulched.

Watering the green beans

Advice! For watering green beans, experienced gardeners use one secret - weeds are placed in a large barrel in the sun (any weeds after weeding the garden, you can slightly grind them beforehand) and fill them up with water. The infusion must stand for seven days. It needs to be stirred from time to time. After a week, a liter of the finished nutritious herbal infusion is diluted in ten liters of water and poured over the beans. It responds to this hydration with fleshy pods and healthy, powerful stems.

Important points of harvest

1. In the early variety, the harvest begins on the 50th day after the first sprouts have hatched from the soil.
2. In the mid-season - on the 70th day.
3. In late maturing - on the 100th.

You need to pick the pods in a state of milk ripeness. It is characterized by the following features:

• pods are not hard, bend rather than break;
• pod length from 10 to 20 cm (depending on the variety);
• inside the pod is a green bean the size of a grain of wheat.

Bean pods in a state of milky ripeness

1. Harvesting is carried out in stages, every two days.
2. Leave the pods that you did not remove in time for seeds, and henceforth check the lashes more carefully.
3. Removing the pods stimulates fruiting. This means that the more beans you harvest, the more they grow.
4. Harvesting can continue until frost.
5. Harvest per square meter of green beans - two kilograms.

Video - How to grow beans on the site

Description of varieties of green beans

There are many varieties of green beans. Some of them did not take root in their summer cottages, for various reasons. Others, on the contrary, have gained popularity, their amateur gardeners warmly recommend each other. Let's consider the most popular ones.

Green Bean Varieties

"Saksa 615"	One of the earliest, fifty-day variety. Shrub and low - up to forty cm. Compact, does not take up much space on the ridge. Pods of emerald green, there are no fibers in them, length - 12 cm, curved shape. The taste is excellent, fresh sweetish.
"Melody"	Also precocious. Curly. One lash forms up to nine pods. Their length is 13 cm. The color is bright green. Straight shape, smooth surface. The variety does not differ in increased sugar content, but the pods are fleshy and juicy.
"Deer King"	It was named so, probably for the arched, strongly curved shape of the pod, which reminded breeders of deer horns. A bushy variety with pods of the color of mature hard cheese. The grains are white inside. Mid-season. Delicious and nutritious fruits. It is said that by growing this variety, two harvest cycles can be harvested per season.
"Zhuravushka"	Bushy compact mid-season variety. It grows up to half a meter. It is distinguished by its ultra-high yield. The fruits of this variety are herbaceous green. They have no fibers. Especially good for freezing and preservation, but fresh, of course, are also used.
"Panther"	Also a bush and also a high-yielding variety. Ripening time is average. But the fruits are not green, but bright yellow. Beans are white. The taste is very high.
"Hell Rem"	A curly variety that has many features, but the main one is the pronounced aroma of forest mushrooms. The pods are pale green, even whitish. And the beans inside are pinkish. Dishes prepared from this variety retain the mushroom aroma and taste unusually good.
"Caramel"	Early maturing, fibrous, curly variety with delicate fruits of traditional green color. This variety is distinguished for its disease resistance and high yield.
"Winner"	These green beans are also curly and late maturing. Her pods are simply huge - they can grow up to 30 cm. The color and taste are traditional. The yield is high, due to the doubled mass of long fruits.
"Purple Queen"	Shrub variety with purple fruits. The pods are about 15 cm, very decorative. Due to the unusual color, they are used very actively in canning.
"Oil King"	The fruits are formed on the bush. Early - fifty days. The color of the pod is deep yellow. The taste is delicious, soft, slightly oily. No fibers. The yields are high.
"Fatima"	A mid-ripening climbing variety, distinguished by twenty-centimeter pods, sparse leaves and lashes up to three meters long. The pod shape is straight, the color is dull green. High productivity.

Something about greenhouse properties

Green beans, like any other legume crop, are the best green manure that nature has come up with to increase the yield of your site in an inexpensive and simple way. Its roots "pull" nitrogen from the soil closer to them.They can be eaten not only by the plant itself, but also by those growing nearby. Therefore, many other crops can be sown in the aisles of beans. In the center between the rows, you can plant pumpkins, melons, zucchini, cucumbers. Along the edges of the ridge, they will feel good: peppers, eggplants, white and red cabbage.

Interesting fact about green beans

And after the harvest is harvested, collect the whips from the supports, or mow the bushes, chop them and bury them in the soil right on the bean bed. Next year you will have a fertile, high-nitrogen field ready for new garden experiments.

Both asparagus and green beans are considered some of the most valuable, tasty, and healthy members of the legume family. Their homeland is the territory of South and Central America. Nowadays, green beans are cultivated almost everywhere, and it is possible to grow a rich harvest even in Siberia.Green beans have gained particular popularity not only due to their pleasant mild taste. It contains vitamins (A, C, B1, E, B2), macro- and microelements, including calcium salts, phosphorus, zinc, iron and folic acid. In addition, green beans contain a sufficient amount of easily digestible protein and fiber. In this article, we would like to talk about growing beans and answer the following questions: "How to plant, how to care for and what kind of beans to choose for your summer cottage?" We hope our recommendations will help you.

Green beans: planting, growing. We select the soil

Green beans are a fairly unpretentious plant. It is not difficult to get a rich harvest, observing some agrotechnical rules for cultivation and care. Light, fertile and well-drained soils with moderate moisture are perfect for cultivating beans and green beans and asparagus. Medium or light loams, as well as sandy loam, will allow you to get a really good crop of legumes. Too wet, swampy, heavy soils are unlikely to work - the plants will hurt and develop poorly. Beans must be grown in areas protected from the wind, warmed up and normally illuminated. But, in principle, partial shade is also suitable. Of course, the chosen place for planting seeds must be well cleared of all kinds of weeds. It is not bad if potatoes, tomatoes or cabbage were grown before the beans.

Green beans: planting seeds correctly

Since the fall, the site chosen for planting is prepared: they dig up and add organic matter (6 kg per 1 m²), superphosphate (35 g per 1 m²), and potassium chloride (20 g per 1 m²). In spring, a complex mineral fertilizer with a high potassium content (25 g per 1 m²) is added to the soil. On well-prepared soil, green beans will grow better and more actively. How to plant seeds? First, you need to wait until the ground warms up to 15-18 ° C and exclude the possibility of repeated frosts. In southern Russia, sowing beans can be safely carried out already from mid-May, in other regions it is advisable to wait for the onset of June. Remember that green beans are very fond of warmth. How to plant seeds? Similar to other legumes. Dry seeds are pre-soaked. And then they are placed at a depth of 3 or 4 cm in open ground (or under a film shelter). Many gardeners recommend keeping the seed in a manganese solution for 15-20 minutes before planting and then rinsing it with water. After planting, the site is sprinkled with humus. For seed germination, a temperature of between 20-25 ° C is required. Usually, the first shoots appear after 10 to 20 days. The distance between individual plants should be about 10 cm, so a little later, excess seedlings are thinned out or planted.

Features of planting bush and curly beans

As a rule, all varieties of beans are divided into curly and bush. Bushy asparagus beans are sown in rows.A distance of 15 - 20 cm is maintained between the beans, and about 30 cm between the rows.Cultivation of bush beans and harvesting will be more convenient if you leave a free gap of 50 cm every three rows. Before the flowering of the plant, one or two spud once. Then the bean bushes will become more resilient and will not fall due to strong wind or rain. So, we have determined how best to sow bush green beans. How to plant climbing varieties, we will tell you below.Curly asparagus beans grow beautifully along fences, in this case there is no need to invent supports. If this is not possible, plant the beans in rows, leaving a gap of about 7-8 cm between the beans. After sprouting, sprout the sprouts, and then build supports and tie the seedlings to them. When the curly beans reach a height of 2-2.5 m, they will need to be pinched to stimulate normal fruiting.

Green beans: growing and care. Watering, feeding

Green beans and asparagus need good watering. With sufficient and regular moisture, the plants will form fleshy pods and bear fruit abundantly. For watering, you can prepare a nutritious infusion: fill the barrel with more than half with weeds and pour water into it. Leave to sour for seven days. And then dilute 1 liter of the finished infusion in a bucket of water. This solution can be used to moisten beans. Remember that in case of insufficient soil moisture, bean stalks will develop poorly, and fruiting will deteriorate significantly. In addition to watering, beans need to loosen row spacings and weed weeds. Basically, that's all it takes to get a great crop of asparagus beans. Growing and caring for this plant will not take much time and energy from you. The main thing is to water, sometimes loosen and occasionally feed it. String beans bloom 40 days after germination. The ovaries appear 20 days later, and after another 10 days they reach sufficient maturity. During the growing season, mineral fertilizing should be carried out two or three times, one of them during budding.

Harvesting green beans

Asparagus beans are consumed whole, that is, not only seeds are subject to preparation, but also green pods, which have a pleasant taste and aroma.
Harvest the green beans and asparagus selectively, plucking the dairy fruits, preventing their grains from hardening. Remove green "shoulder blades" several times per season, depending on the type of plant. Fruiting of beans will continue in summer and autumn, until the onset of frost. Bushes intended for obtaining seed material are not harvested. They are left until the seeds are fully ripe, and in September-October they are removed from the garden.

Popular varieties of green beans

One of the most delicious varieties is the Deer King (Holland). This undersized bush bean ripens early and yields a lot. The cultivar is recognized by its lemon yellow pods and white grains. Fana (Poland) is considered another good variety. The pods of this bushy asparagus bean are green in color with white grains inside. The variety is particularly resistant to diseases and high yields. Popular varieties of curly asparagus beans are Golden Nectar and Ad Rem (both US). They are distinguished by high yield and excellent taste characteristics. Blau Hilde (Austria) is another excellent climbing bean variety. You can recognize it by its purple pods and large creamy grains.

Instead of a conclusion

So, in this article we examined the features of growing a valuable plant called green (string) beans. How to plant, how to care for it, feed and harvest - you now know.We hope that in your summer cottage you will definitely be able to grow this wonderful legume, which is a valuable source of protein, fiber, vitamins, macro- and microelements.

Foreword

Green beans, rich in vitamins, micro- and macroelements, are a welcome guest on the table for many people: they are successfully used both as a side dish and as an addition to a particular dish. And if earlier beans could only be bought in a supermarket, then in recent years its seeds are freely available, which means that every gardener has a chance to get an excellent harvest of these beans.

Green beans - growing and care at their summer cottage

If you have never encountered the cultivation of beans, then keep in mind that there are two types of beans - bush and curly. In accordance with what initial conditions you have and the purchase of seeds. By the way, when choosing them, pay due attention to the region for which they are intended, because varieties suitable for southern latitudes are unlikely to give a normal harvest in the middle climatic zone, as well as vice versa. The most commonly used varieties are the Deer King, bred in Holland and, accordingly, almost ideally suited to our climatic conditions. Also popular is the Polish variety Fana, which grows as a bush. The American Ad Rem and Golden Nectar are considered to be the most productive and least simple ones. It is also worth highlighting the Austrian Blau Hilde, which not only grows well, but also has large fruits in elegant purple pods. It is most suitable for both getting a good harvest and for decorating surfaces or creating curly hedges.

As for the initial conditions, if the planting is supposed to be on the garden bed, then the choice should be made in favor of the bush type, and if there is only free space on the site, except near the house, fence or tree, then it is logical to choose a climbing variety. Since the curly look does not take up much space, is not particularly demanding to care for (in comparison with the bush), and also becomes an excellent green decorative element with rather cute flowers, it becomes a more optimal option, especially if there is no need to prepare several bags harvest.

It is necessary to make one important remark: the soil for planting beans should be prepared ahead of time, in the fall, even before the onset of frequent frosts. For mid-latitudes, the optimal time is mid to late October.

Land preparation is carried out by digging a site for planting with the obligatory introduction of organic matter, superphosphate and potassium chloride. The ratio is approximately the following: 6 kg of organic matter, 35 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq. M. soil.

In the spring, as soon as the land "departs", a complex mineral fertilizer is applied with a predominant potassium content in the proportion of 25 grams per 1 sq. M. - it is with this preparation of the earth that you will get excellent green beans. How to grow this type of legume without preliminary soil preparation? In principle, the harvest will be, however, it will not differ in abundance and taste, and there will be an order of magnitude less nutrients in the fruits.

Planting seeds

Despite the fact that green beans are not particularly critical to frost, you should wait not only for the prevalence of a constant positive temperature, but also for the upper soil layer to warm up to at least 15-18 degrees Celsius. Accordingly, planting is carried out at the end of May, but sometimes the weather allows you to plant beans in the second decade of this month. Early maturing varieties can be planted in early June.

As a rule, germination of seeds is not required - it is enough to soak them, and this can be done together with other legumes. Some gardeners, before planting beans, keep them in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, after which they are watered abundantly with warm running water.Landing is carried out in open ground, but if the climatic conditions are not warm enough, then after planting the ground can be covered with a film. The seed is placed at a depth of 3-4 cm, but if your seeds have sprouted, then planting is no longer allowed to such a depth, and then the seed is placed in a hole up to 20mm deep. Then, when planting germinated seeds (the lower part of the stalk), they are slightly covered as the plant grows. The seeds should not be allowed to wash out of the ground, therefore, at first, a film shelter or the construction of another shed may be needed for the period until the plant reaches a height of 40mm. It is by this time that it takes root well and does not die during intense rainfall. Some gardeners sprinkle the seeds with humus immediately after planting, but this is not required with proper autumn soil preparation.

The bush type of beans is sown in rows with an interval of 150-200mm, the row spacing is not less than 300mm. Moreover, sowing must be carried out in such a way that subsequently the bush will have to be piled up once or twice (and this is done even before flowering), because the frequency in two rows is quite enough to simplify care.

But the curly version is planted much more densely (70-80mm distance between plantings), but only in one row. Otherwise, the insolation of the plant will be insufficient and you will have to forget about a good harvest. As soon as the sprouts reach a height of 100 mm, they must be tied to the "supports" - the fence or the wall of the building. Further, the climbing plant will grow quietly and independently "find" the opportunity to catch on for further growth. But if the goal is not only the harvest, but also the decoration, then it is recommended to run the twine or twine in the direction of the desired growth. In this way, a natural green "wall" can be achieved, since dense foliage, when planted at intervals of no more than 80mm, will provide a continuous background. When the climbing plant reaches a height of 2000-2500mm, its tip is pinched to improve fruiting.

Watering and feeding

Like many legumes, green beans will need to be watered frequently and abundantly. Adequate heat and moisture will ensure a high quality crop, but if you use top dressing, then fruiting will be abundant, and the plant itself will be strong and resistant to pests and diseases. Top dressing is done according to the following plan:

• nutrient solution - weeds are soaked for a week in 70 liters. water, then the resulting fermented liquid is diluted with water at the rate of 1 liter of slurry per 7 liters of water. The solution is used for seed germination;
• with a stable stem, the usual mineral fertilizer is added in a depleted dose (up to 5 g per 10 liters of water, provided that the soil is properly prepared before planting);
• alternation of nutrient solution and mineral fertilizers, use no more than 1 time in 3 weeks;
• feeding stops immediately after the beginning of fruiting.

The only thing that is extremely critical when growing green beans is loosening the soil and removing weeds. The fact is that with insufficient aeration of the soil, the death of roots can occur, moreover, in dense soil, it is not enough for them to simply select nutrients and develop the root system. As for the removal of weeds, in the presence of other plants around the bush or shoot, the growth of legumes is significantly reduced, fruiting is delayed and the crop does not please with abundance. However, in favor of the curly beans speaks its ability to independently displace any climbing weeds, which experienced gardeners constantly use: wanting to get rid of some bindweed, they plant the climbing beans.

The need to loosen the row spacings is also important for growing and caring for beans, since otherwise moisture will accumulate there, an excess of which can damage the roots.

In conclusion, it should be said about the timing of harvesting: if everything is done correctly, then about 1.5 months after planting, the beans will begin to bloom profusely, and after some 2-3 weeks the first harvest can be harvested. And fruiting, which began in the middle of summer, will not stop until the very frost, if care is maintained at the proper level. It is worth noting that most varieties can be left for seeds, for which the collection of fruits from the strongest bushes is not performed until the seeds are fully ripe. In October, the ripe beans are harvested and the plant removed. Immediately after removing the plant, the land must be prepared for planting next year in the above way.