How to grow garden strawberries outdoors?

Strawberries have an unforgettable taste and aroma, thanks to which they are loved by both adults and children. This berry is very popular, but its price is quite high, and it is much more profitable to grow strawberries on your own right at their summer cottage.

Is it possible to grow strawberries in the country?

Growing strawberries on your own in a summer cottage is a very painstaking, but at the same time, simple task. If all the rules are correctly followed, the plant will actively bear fruit and bring a good harvest.

The complexity of cultivation lies in the fact that when cultivating strawberries, you will have to spend a lot of energy on performing such everyday actions as watering and weeding.

It is possible to grow this berry in the open field in the garden both in the southern and northern latitudes and in Siberia. The key to success in this case will be correct selection of the variety, which must be adapted to the specific location. The modern market can offer a huge number of types of strawberries. They all differ from each other according to criteria such as climatic resistance, ripening time, size and taste of the fruit, etc.

When planning to plant strawberries in your country house, you also need to make sure that it feels comfortable. For this, the berries are placed in a light, sandy loam or loamy soil.

The key to a good harvest is the correct selection of the variety.

Popular species and good varieties for Siberia

It is best for beginners to stop their attention on well-known varieties that have already established themselves:

1. Daryonka - this early ripe variety boasts immunity to fungal diseases and pests. Also, such a plant tolerates winter temperatures well and brings a large amount of harvest. Berries of medium size (15-20 grams) have a blunt cone shape. The taste is pleasant, sweet and sour;
2. Kama - this variety has excellent frost and drought resistance. There is a susceptibility to infection with brown or white spot. Large fruits, weighing 25-35 grams, are made in the form of a rounded rhombus, characterized by the presence of ribbing. When fully ripe, the skin takes on a maroon hue. The pulp is juicy, tender and sweet and sour;
3. Mashenka - a variety of Russian selection is perfectly adapted to the conditions of the middle lane. The plant is not afraid of diseases and recurrent frosts, but at the same time it brings a good harvest. The leaves on the bushes are large, and the flower stalks are powerful and stable. The oblong, bright red berries have a pleasant taste and strawberry aroma;
4. Queen Elizabeth - a feature of the remontant variety will be its large and very sweet fruits. The plant can tolerate severe frosts, recurrent frosts, insect attacks and diseases well. The yield is always at a high level. The main disadvantage of the variety will be that it does not form a mustache, so it will have to be propagated with the help of seeds.

Correct planting in a garden in the open field - step by step instructions

When planting strawberries in a summer cottage, it is first of all necessary decide on a deadline... The gardener has several options for the development of events:

• spring (April) - the strawberry bed must be prepared in the fall of the previous season;
• summer (July 20-25) - the garden is also prepared in the fall;
• autumn (September) - in this case, the soil for plants is prepared 2-3 weeks before work.

After the deadlines are determined, you can proceed to the formation of beds... The place where they will be located must meet the following requirements:

1. The soil should be sandy loam or loamy, necessarily breathable and nutritious;
2. The optimum acidity level should be within 5.5-6.5 Ph... In the event that the indicator is lowered, it can be raised by adding dolomite flour. It is worth remembering that such work can only be carried out in the fall;
3. Places of accumulation of precipitation and melt water are not suitable for growing strawberries, because in this case there is a great risk of decay of the root system;
4. Groundwater should be located at a depth equal to 70-80 centimeters;
5. Experienced gardeners recommend placing strawberries separately from all other horticultural crops;
6. The best precursors to strawberries are legumes, grains, or greens. It is not worth planting in places where tomatoes or potatoes previously grew;
7. In order for the berries to ripen, to be juicy and sugary, the planting site must be sunny.

The place of planting strawberries must be sunny.

The method of forming the beds will depend on the chosen growing location. In the event that the site is located on a hill and is well illuminated by sunlight, it is enough to build a bulk bed with a height 10 centimeters... With a high location of groundwater, this indicator increases up to 35-40 centimeters.

The optimal landing width is 95-100 centimeters.

In order to make the soil more fertile, the following fertilizers are applied per square meter of soil:

• 8 kilograms of compost;
• 100 grams of superphosphate;
• 30 grams of potassium salt.

The next step is to select healthy seedlings:

• they should be free from traces of mechanical damage and disease;
• planting material with the most powerful and branched roots takes root best of all;
• the socket must be 3-4 leaves.

Seedlings must be of high quality and without damage.

Before planting, you must carefully dig the soil to a depth of 25-30 centimeters.

Doing such work will help form a nutritional and water regime... Also, during the digging, you can find and destroy a variety of pests.

As soon as the preparatory work is completed, you can start planting plants:

1. The best time to plant is early morning or late evening on a cloudy day;
2. The standard planting pattern says that the distance between the rows is equal to 60-70 centimeters, and between individual plants 20-25 centimeters;
3. The hole is dug to the depth 13-15 centimeters;
4. When immersing a seedling in the ground, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar is at the same level with the ground. Otherwise, the plant will soon die;
5. The last step will be abundant watering and mulching of the plantings.

Planting and growing strawberries is a fairly simple process, the main thing is to follow all the rules and take preparatory measures on time.

Technology and secrets of strawberry care for a good harvest

Watering

Strawberry care involves many aspects. There are no technologies and secrets to get the harvest. It is enough to follow the step-by-step instructions for planting and breeding, plant within the acceptable time frame and take care of it properly. water the plants properly, that is, waterlogging and drying out of the soil should not be allowed.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering strawberries after planting and flowering, while picking berries, in late summer and early fall. One bush will consume 1 liter of warm water. Immediately after watering, the plantings are mulched with a 7-8 centimeter layer of humus.

Fertilizers and feeding

Fertilize strawberries in accordance with the following scheme:

1. In early spring, during the formation of leaves and after harvesting, the bushes are fertilized with nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
2. In late August and early September, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is performed;
3. Before flowering and after harvesting, the plantings are fertilized with a manure solution, humus or wood ash.

Complex fertilizer for strawberries

Strawberries should never be fed with chlorine-containing fertilizers.

Protection against diseases and pests

Strawberry beds needed weed and loosen regularly... This procedure will be a good prevention of fungal diseases.

In the event that gray rot still struck the plant, in order to get rid of it before flowering, plantings are watered with a solution of iodine, a teaspoon of which is diluted in 10 liters of water. The procedure is repeated after 7-10 days.

For the prevention of diseases during flowering and after harvest, the following treatments are carried out:

• fungal diseases - "Fitosporin";
• spotting and gray rot - copper oxychloride;
• powdery mildew - 2 tablespoons of potassium permanganate, diluted in 10 liters of water.

Removing the whiskers contributes to a larger crop

During the entire growing season from the bushes remove mustache, this will contribute to the formation of a larger and more attractive crop. After picking the berries, it is necessary to cut off the entire green part of the plants, leaving only a few lower leaves.

Planting needs to be renewed every 3-4 years.

Preparing for winter

When growing strawberries in areas with a harsh and unpredictable climate, you should take care of plant protection for the winter. In order for the shrub to tolerate cold temperatures well, choose climate-resistant varieties.

To prepare the plant for winter, it abundantly watered and mulched with straw... With the onset of the first frost, the planting is covered with spruce branches, film, agrofibre or any other means at hand. If the winter has little snow, then you need to additionally throw snow on the ridges.

In preparation for winter, strawberries are mulched with straw.

The subtleties of growing sweet and aromatic berries

In order to grow a harvest of tasty and juicy berries, you need to adhere to some rules:

1. Best to pick up released and tested varieties, caring for which will not bring any particular difficulties;
2. To get a good harvest, it is very important to adhere to the agricultural technology of growing strawberries, namely, to follow the rules of the neighborhood, to deliberately approach the place of plant growth and planting. It is also very important to correctly and feed and water on time bushes;
3. Weeds take a large amount of nutrients from strawberries, so they need to be removed as soon as possible;
4. Effective and timely disease control will help maintain the quality and quantity of the crop;
5. The mustache depletes the plant, causing the berries to become smaller and the overall yield drops. To maintain fruiting, it is recommended remove shoots regularly strawberries.

Growing strawberries on your own plot is the dream of almost every gardener. In order to bring it to life, you must adhere to all the rules for plant cultivation and not neglect the advice of experienced gardeners.

Hello dear readers!

Garden strawberries are one of the most delicious, tender and favorite berries of gardeners.

People call it strawberries, although in official science it is forest small fragrant berries that bear this name.

If you are going to start this valuable and popular culture on your site, then today we invite you to get acquainted with the common methods of planting garden strawberries and the features of caring for it.

Earlier, we have already got acquainted with garden strawberries, decided on the choice of a planting site and prepared seedlings, and now we will start planting strawberries.

Also in this article we will talk about how to properly care for it in order to get a good harvest.

And although our beauty is not capricious and will not require great labor feats from us, but still, like all plants, the strawberry loves to be treated with love and given due attention.

Landing patterns

As we already know, strawberries can be planted in spring, when the soil warms up, and in late summer - early autumn.

And seedlings purchased in pots can be planted all season.

There are several main ways of planting garden strawberries, namely: single-line or ordinary, two-line or ribbon, square-nested or checkerboard.

Such planting methods are used mainly on flat and dry places.

If your plot is wet and there is a possibility of stagnant water in rainy weather, then it is better to grow garden strawberries in high beds (20-30 cm).

I prefer to grow it in higher elevations, as I find it more convenient.

Firstly: excess moisture leaves the soil faster, and secondly, strawberry bushes are much better illuminated by the sun, and thirdly, it is much easier to care for the plantation.

And now a little more about each method of planting garden strawberries, which have their own disadvantages and advantages.

Planting in separate bushes... The seedlings are placed at a distance of 45-60 cm one by one, and to exclude interlacing, the mustache is regularly removed.

This allows the plants to thrive with increased intensity and good fruiting.

The disadvantage of this method is its laboriousness - the obligatory carrying out of frequent weeding and loosening, mulching and removal of the mustache.

However, abundant nutrition for each bush guarantees a bountiful harvest with large berries.

Additional advantages are economy of planting material and good ventilation, due to which morbidity is reduced.

Planting strawberries in rows (single line)... The bushes are planted at a distance of 15 cm, placing them in rows with a gap of 40 cm between rows.

This is done for free access to the landings. The complexity is the same as when planting strawberries in separate bushes: it is necessary to loosen, weed, remove the mustache.

The advantages are increased productivity due to the growth of bushes in rows and the possibility of obtaining high yields for 5-6 years, while not renewing the planting.

Two-line (ribbon) fit... Used for large areas of planting in order to reduce labor costs for processing the site.

Landings are placed in two lines at a distance of 30 cm, placing seedlings every 15-20 cm and leaving a passage 60-70 cm wide in the aisles.

Thus, they provide access to each plant and reduce the size of the area required for weeding and loosening.

Checkerboard landing... It is used when laying a ridge of a variety of garden strawberries with increased leafiness.

In this case, the seedlings are placed in rows at a distance of 50 by 50 cm, while shifting one row relative to the other by 25 cm.

This ensures good ventilation during the growth of bushes and prevents morbidity.

Planting nests... A well-developed seedling is placed in the center, and 6 more smaller ones are planted around, at a distance of 6-8 cm.

25-30 cm are left between the nests, and they are placed in rows with row spacings 35-40 cm wide.

The main disadvantage of this method of planting strawberries is the consumption of a large amount of planting material.

However, with the growth of the bushes, labor costs are reduced, and fruiting becomes much higher than with traditional schemes.

Carpet planting of strawberries... The simplest and easiest growing method.

In this case, all the mustache is left for rooting. Such plantings almost do not need weeding - the seedlings of the plant simply do not allow anything else to grow.

They also do not require intensive watering - under a continuous carpet of leaves, the soil dries out slowly.

This method is the best way out for rarely visited areas, since it does not require special care.

The only drawback is that over time, the culture degenerates, and the berries become small.

Important! When choosing a landing pattern, calculate your capabilities, and also take into account the goals that you have set for yourself. If you want to grow garden strawberries for a commercial purpose, do not be lazy to study as deeply as possible all the nuances of planting and care.

Planting methods for garden strawberries

Planting bushes on a regular garden bed is the most traditional method that provides average yields under average climatic conditions.

Today, Russian summer residents and farmers are actively using technological innovations that make it possible to obtain higher and better yields while reducing labor costs.

Planting strawberries on agrofibre... For planting, high ridges are formed, the width of which depends on the width of the nonwoven material. Usually it is 70-80 cm.

The ridge is covered with agrofibre, pressed along the edge with heavy improvised means (boards, slate, bricks, earth).

The usual placement is in two rows. Row spacing - 50 cm, between seedlings - 20 cm.

Minimally small round holes (for the film so as not to tear) or cruciform holes are made at the designated points.

Dig a hole with your hand and place a seedling in it. If the roots are long, then they take a long wide knife with which they make a hole and then press down with the earth.

Or cut the roots to the desired length (up to 10 cm). If moles are found on the site, then first get rid of the pests, it will be problematic to do this after the construction of the garden.

Planting strawberries on a straw mattress... At the end of summer, dried pea tops are dropped on the garden bed and spilled with nitrogen fertilizers, which provide rapid overheating.

After 3 weeks, well-developed seedlings are planted with an interval of 30-40 cm in several rows, they are well shed and mulched.

The main rule when placing is good access to each plant;

Landing in film tunnels... This method is good for northern regions or areas with a harsh continental climate.

The film cover will protect young tender seedlings from the vagaries of the weather.

However, with significant warming, the film must be removed or vents must be built, since excessive temperature and humidity will contribute to the development of diseases.

Landing in a vertical ridge... With a shortage of space in the summer cottage, it is possible to grow garden strawberries in vertical beds.

For the construction of such a bed, any available material is required: plastic bags, wooden or plastic barrels, containers, car tires or discs.

It is quite simple to build a ridge by making holes for seedlings in the material at hand and filling containers or barrels with earth.

To ensure sufficient watering and feeding along the entire length, a pipe with small holes made at the required level is inserted into the center of the structure, through which moisture enters.

Such plantings are especially vulnerable during the cold season, so they are carefully wrapped up for the winter.

Important! When planting in any way, place the heart of each seedling above the soil level. At the same time, the root collar should be completely covered with soil. Ideally, the growing point of each plant should be just above the soil level and not be covered with earth, otherwise the plant will die.

How to arrange landings

To achieve the highest productivity (of course, if there is free space), you should start 4 beds with constantly renewed plants:

1. On the first site in the fall, bushes of garden strawberries are planted. Next year, you will receive high-quality seedlings from this ridge, with which you will plant a second plot;
2. A year later, from the second plot, strawberry seedlings are planted in 3 plots, and on the first you get a full-fledged harvest;
3. After 2 years, you will have two perfectly fruitful beds, one ridge with young strawberries, and you will plant seedlings on the last plot;
4. After 3 years, 1 plot is dug up - after all, it has already borne fruit for 3 years, and young seedlings are planted from 4 sites.

However, transplants alone cannot provide high yields. It is necessary to provide your pet with optimal conditions for good fruiting.

Planting young seedlings

Seedlings of garden strawberries are planted in the spring (20.04 - 10.05) or in the fall (16.08 - 31.08):

• Before planting, the seedlings are kept in a cool room for at least 5 days;
• The best time to plant is in the afternoon;
• Excess leaves are removed, especially old and dried ones, leaving only two inner green leaves. This is a prerequisite for good survival. Otherwise, the root system may not be able to cope and the plant will die;
• The roots are dipped in a mash made of equal parts of clay and peat;
• Place the seedling in the hole, having previously straightened them along the entire length. The ideal option is to make a mound and "plant" a bush on it, placing the roots along the edges. At the same time, they do not forget about the main rule when planting garden strawberries - do not cover the heart with earth. It should be slightly above the soil level, and at the same time the root collar should be completely in the ground;
• After placing the seedling in the hole, the soil around is squeezed and leveled, while making sure that the roots do not remain hanging in the void, but have full contact with the ground;
• After planting, watering is carried out (in dry weather - plentiful).

Important! If you bought strawberry seedlings in cups, then the roots will be necessarily twisted. They should be straightened, rotted away, and, if necessary, shortened. Correct planting will increase the chances of good survival of the bushes.

Care features

Young strawberry seedlings need increased attention in the first year, especially at the initial stage, when they have not yet taken root:

• In hot weather, in the first few days, the seedlings are shaded, and watering is done as needed. If late frosts threaten spring plantings, then the plantation is protected with covering materials;
• When planting, the hole is spilled well and must be mulched, this allows you to lay a ridge in any weather - the mulch retains moisture;
• Top dressing is carried out together with adult plantings, but the rates are halved - the plant is still small;
• In spring plantings, peduncles and mustaches must be removed, this will give an additional incentive for the growth and development of the bush.

Important! Waterlogging of the soil can lead to the appearance of diseases, decay of the roots. Therefore, pay special attention to the humidity. In this respect, drip irrigation is optimal - the soil never dries up and does not become waterlogged.

Adult planting care

Garden strawberry is an unpretentious plant; immediately after the snow melts, you can see green leaves.

In the spring, when the soil warms up, they clean the plantings from dead leaves, plant new seedlings in the place of the frozen bushes, treat the plants from pests.

As soon as the weather permits, they begin to carry out gardening work on transplantation and care.

Weeding, loosening, mulching

When planting garden strawberries in the usual way, without using agrofibre, you should prepare for regular weeding and loosening throughout the season - at least once every 2 weeks.

Ridges with separately planted bushes are especially costly in this regard. Therefore, in large agricultural farms, a planting scheme is used in rows, which makes it possible to process plantations using mechanized means.

For the whole season, 5-6 weeding and 7-8 loosening are carried out. At the same time, special attention is paid to the accuracy of any actions near the roots - after all, they lie close enough to the surface and are easily exposed.

If this happens, you should sprinkle them with a layer of soil and trample them down.

This happens especially often after wintering, when the bushes protrude above the surface due to frost. In this case, they are slightly huddled.

Some professionals advise removing a 3 cm layer of soil during the first spring weeding, in which the larvae of pests winter.

In this case, the soil warms up faster, and the bushes of garden strawberries start growing more actively.

If your climatic conditions allow, then it is quite possible to use this recommendation.

After weeding, mulching is carried out with improvised materials:

• Sawdust;
• Pine needles;
• Overripe straw;
• Old leaves;
• Reed.

The first mulching of strawberries is done after the spring weeding, covering the soil around the bushes with a layer of 7-8 cm.

During the season, if necessary, mulch is poured, and the weeds that have broken through are weeded out.

Important! A layer of mulching materials also retains moisture and protects the berries from contamination. And if you make pine needles mulch, then add a disinfectant effect that prevents the development of diseases and even repels pests.

Watering garden strawberries

One of the main points of proper care of garden strawberries is timely and sufficient watering.

If we talk about garden strawberries, then they are especially demanding on soil moisture during flowering and fruiting.

With sufficiently light loose soils, watering is carried out more often, and if there is clay in the composition, less often.

Basic requirements for watering:

• Before flowering, sprinkling watering is allowed, after - only at the root. If your plantings are placed on agrofibre, then watering is carried out through a hose with holes, laid in advance during the construction of the ridge;
• The frequency of watering is 1 time in about 10-12 days, however, in extreme heat, the frequency is increased several times;
• Watering is carried out with warm water, if impossible - shed furrows between the rows;
• For 1 sq. consume about 10-12 liters, the rate is increased or decreased depending on the degree of soil moisture. This is especially important during the fruiting period - the earth should be moist to a depth of 20-25 cm;
• Watering is carried out in the morning, and preferably in the evening, in order to give the plant the maximum necessary moisture.

If you have small plantings, then it is advisable to cover them with a film for the period of flowering and fruiting in rainy weather - this will help protect garden strawberries from the development of diseases.

Important! Before harvesting, abundant watering is stopped - the berry turns out to be especially sweet and not watery. To prevent planting from drying out in hot weather, watering is carried out after each collection of ripe berries.

Feeding

Nutrition, along with watering, plays an important role in shaping the future harvest of garden strawberries.

If you have taken care of the fertility of the soil in advance, then in the first year, in the absence of berries, you can get by with a minimum of inorganic fertilizers.

However, starting from the first fruiting season, you need to regularly feed your pet in order to get the appropriate return:

• First feeding it is carried out after the appearance of young leaves, at the same time, last year's leaves are removed. For 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. liquid "sodium humate" or urea. Consumption for 1 bush - 0.5 l. Or bred mullein (1: 10) or chicken manure (1: 50) and add the same amount of solution. To enhance growth and fruiting, foliar feeding is also carried out: dissolve in a bucket of water 2 g of potassium permanganate, boric acid and ammonium molybdate;
• Second feeding carried out just before flowering. For 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. "Agricola Aqua" and "Effekton Ya", add potassium sulfate (1 tsp) and pour 0.5 liters of solution under each plant. At the same time, one more foliar feeding is carried out;
• Third feeding produced after harvest (before August 10), its goal is to ensure the full development of flower buds for the next year. For 10 liters of water take 1 tbsp. l. "Effekton" and nitrophoska, add a glass of wood ash. For each bush, 1 liter of solution is consumed.

All the necessary components can be replaced by a special complex fertilizer, which is created only for garden strawberries and provides an increase in yield by 30%.

Important! When feeding, try not to get fertilizer on the leaves, and also take into account the amount of moisture in the solution during watering. After all, waterlogging is one of the main factors contributing to disease damage.

Mustache removal

Trimming the whiskers allows the garden strawberry bush to conserve the most energy for high yields.

However, such a seemingly simple action also requires compliance with certain points:

• Pruning twice a year - in the spring before flowering and after fruiting;
• To remove the mustache, be sure to use garden tools: scissors, knife, pruner. Tearing off the whiskers can damage the plant and even pull it out of the soil - the whiskers are quite strong;
• Do not remove the mustache at the root, leave the stalk up to 10 cm - later the plant will get rid of the unnecessary stem by itself;
• Prune early in the morning or in the evening, and then do a pest control.

Important! To obtain high-quality planting material for garden strawberries during the fruiting period, mark the most productive bushes. You will remove the mustache on them when the time comes to lay a new ridge - in the fall. For seedlings, take only the first mustache from the mother plant - it is they that have the highest qualities of productivity. By this selection, some gardeners increase the yield of already good varieties and even develop new ones.

From all the available options for planting garden strawberries, choose the most suitable for achieving your goals - whether it is growing for profit or to provide your family with a vitamin and tasty product. In any case - success to you!

For information, watch the video on another way to plant garden strawberries. Maybe some of you would prefer this fit.

See you soon, dear readers!

You can also read on this topic:

Tags: strawberry

Growing and tending strawberries for the perfect harvest

Strawberry (lat.Fragaria moschata or Fragaria elatior) is the second, more common name for nutmeg strawberries. To grow a crop and collect an excellent harvest of berries, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of planting, and the rules of cultivation and care.

Dates for planting strawberries in open ground

Good engraftment and growth of strawberries shows at an air temperature of 15-25 degrees Celsius, therefore, the optimal time for planting is considered:

• For the middle zone and the Moscow region - the beginning of spring (late March - mid April), but preferably in autumn (early August - late September);
• For the south - the autumn period (early September);
• For the northern regions - late May - early July.

Strawberries, planting and caring for which are carried out in accordance with all the rules, gives a good harvest.

Strawberry cultivation methods

For open ground, the classic planting method is most often used. Since the other methods involve the use of special containers or landscape drops, they are used to grow strawberries in greenhouses, on verandas or terraces. Ampel strawberries are also used as an element of garden design.

Classic ways of planting strawberries

The most common, classic ways of planting strawberries outdoors.

Classic strawberry planting schemes

• One line. With this method, a distance of about 60 cm between rows is observed, between plants in a row about 15 cm. This planting is recommended for autumn-spring planting.
• Two-line. This method is used in summer: the row spacing is 30 cm, between the plants about 20 cm. The number of plants will be greater than with the one-line method, and accordingly the yield will be better.

The free distance between rows and plants is an additional preventive measure against the spread of diseases.

Non-standard planting methods

Traditional planting methods are not suitable for small suburban areas. Especially for them, other methods were invented.

Vertical planting of strawberries on a construction grid

• Vertical. Planting strawberries in pipes, pots, building mesh or old tires. All available material is located strictly vertically to save space;

Planting strawberries in plastic bags

• In bags. Plastic bags with soil and strawberry seedlings are laid horizontally or hung vertically. For plants, holes are made for growth;

Planting strawberries under agrospan

• Planting under agrofibre or creating film tunnels. It does not save space, but it allows you to get a harvest faster than traditional methods;

Growing strawberries hydroponically

• Hydroponics. Strawberry bushes grow on a substrate of rock wool, peat mixture and coconut fiber. Used in greenhouses on an industrial scale.

Planting strawberries outdoors

Strawberries are quite a whimsical culture, before planting them in open ground, it is necessary to properly prepare the beds. It depends on what kind of harvest strawberries will give, care, cultivation, size and abundance of berries.

Soil preparation

The planting site should be chosen in the southwestern, well-ventilated, sunny part of the site. Strawberries love warmth and light, the sweetness and juiciness of berries depends on it.

Soil preparation for strawberries

It is very important that the place for the beds is a little on a hill, high beds are ideal for growing. With stagnant water during the ripening period, the berry can be seriously damaged by fungal diseases, therefore it is recommended to drain the soil under the bed with broken brick or pebbles. The occurrence of groundwater should be at a level of 80 cm, the acidity level of the soil should not exceed pH 5.7-6.2.

Landing technology

Before planting, the seedlings are dipped in a 1% iodine solution and kept in a cool place for up to 3 days. If sowing is done with seeds, they should be soaked in warm water with a small amount of growth stimulant for 2 days.

Strawberries are planted on a cloudy day so that the seedlings can get used to the sunlight. The soil is preliminarily cleared of weeds and fertilized (70 g of superphosphate, 30 g of humus, 30 g of ammonium nitrate and potassium salt are applied per 1 sq. M.).

Planting strawberry bushes in open ground

Advice

When planting seedlings, it is important to ensure that the root system fits well into the prepared hole, does not crumple or bend.If it does not work out, force cannot be used; the hole should be deepened.

After planting, watering is required, at least a liter of water for each bush, as well as fertilization of infusion on humus or manure. If there was no preliminary feeding, fertilize with a mixture of: ammonium nitrate 15 g, superphosphate 30 g and potassium salt 10 g per 1 sq. M.

Features of planting remontant strawberries

Planting remontant strawberries is best done in April - early May. During pre-sowing preparation, the seeds are soaked in water or growth regulator.

Growing remontant strawberries in the open field

Advice

When preparing beds for planting remontant varieties, broken bricks must be laid for drainage. A fertile layer is laid with humus with river sand and earth from the garden in equal proportions.

The seeding procedure is performed as follows:

• Water and make depressions at a distance of 5 cm from each other;
• The seeds are buried in the grooves by 0.5 cm;
• Cover with glass or reinforced agrofilm from above.
• After the emergence of sprouts, pinch the ends of the roots;
• The pinching procedure is repeated when 4-5 leaves appear.

A big plus of remontant strawberries in early and abundant fruiting. The harvest will have time to ripen before frost, and from 1 sq.m. you can collect up to 1 kg of berries.

Crop rotation for strawberries

Strawberries can be planted in the same place for 4 years, then they take a break for 2 years.

Strawberries are not very demanding on the mineral content in the soil, so it can be grown after many crops: radishes and turnips, parsley and spinach, radishes and dill, any legumes, carrots, corn, some bulbous flowers (tulips and hyacinths).

• It is best to plant strawberries after green manure plants. Cereals are especially good.
• Do not grow plants from the Rosaceae family nearby: raspberries, hawthorns, mountain ash or rose hips.
• Legumes and corn are good neighbors as they supply nitrogen to the soil.

Growing and caring for strawberries

If watering is not so important for strawberries, then it is important to follow the feeding throughout the entire summer season. It is also necessary to trim the mustache in a timely manner, and cover the beds for the winter if necessary.

Fertilizing strawberries

Strawberry dressing

• During the budding period, young strawberries are fed with potassium fertilizers (potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium, potassium chloride) according to the instructions on the package.
• To increase the yield, the plant is sprayed with boric acid (1 tsp per 10 liters of water).
• Adult strawberries are fertilized in early spring by introducing nitroammofoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
• During flowering, potash nitrate, chicken droppings or wood ash are added.
• After harvesting, fertilize again with nitroammophos (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).
• At the end of summer, for a better harvest next year, the plant is fertilized with urea (30 g per 10 liters of water).

Reproduction and pruning

Strawberries are propagated by seeds, mustache seedlings and bush division. The most popular method is mustache seedlings.

Propagation of strawberries with whiskers or rosettes

In the uterine bushes, the strongest mustache is left to form a rosette. 2 weeks before planting, the mustache, which connects the sockets with the uterine bush, is cut off. You can use uterine bushes for growing a mustache up to 3 years.

Pruning the leaves in summer helps protect strawberries from disease and pests. The procedure is carried out in a dry morning or evening with a sharp pruner. Leave the "point of growth", stems and petioles up to 10 cm long. Only overgrown whiskers and leaves are removed.

For the winter, strawberries should go after pruning, only young shoots are left. The cultivation and care of strawberries which are complemented by correct pruning is less sick and grows better.

Mulching strawberries

Strawberry mulching is carried out in the spring to avoid contact of the peduncles with the soil and in late autumn to protect against frost. Consider options for mulching strawberries.

Mulching strawberries with straw

• Organic mulch (compost, humus, grass cuttings, manure). Improves microbiological parameters and soil structure;
• Inorganic mulch (stone, granite, chips, black and colored polyethylene).

Advantages of mulching with special purchased mulch paper:

• Safety (does not contain harmful printing ink);
• Does not rot, protects against fungi, weed germination and external influences (drying out from heat or freezing).

Strawberry shelter for the winter

Strawberry bushes require shelter for a harsh (up to -20 degrees Celsius) and little snow winter in order to avoid freezing of the roots. They begin to shelter at the onset of regular frosts, if it gets warmer, then the shelter is removed to avoid damping off. Light frosts help to harden the plant.

Mulching strawberries with dry leaves for the winter

Suitable as a covering material:

• Pine spruce branches;
• Hay, straw, dry leaves;
• Agrofibre, Spunbond, Agrotex

Outcome

Strawberries, which take a lot of time and effort to care for, will surely bring you a bountiful harvest. It is necessary to properly prepare the soil for planting and follow the rules for growing a crop and provide it with the best conditions for growth, then the berries will be sweet and large.

To grow healthy and productive strawberries in the open field, it is necessary to take into account the botanical and varietal characteristics of the culture, the nuances of agricultural technology and use the knowledge of agricultural chemistry.

Strawberry is a demanding berry, but by following the lead and satisfying its appetites, you can easily master the cultivation technology and get an excellent yield of a fragrant and sweet crop.

Choosing a site for growing strawberries in the open field

Strawberry bushes in an open area two rows

Where to plant strawberries depends on the growing region. Strawberries will not tolerate excessive dryness and constant moisture... Its root system penetrates completely shallowly into the soil, so the scorching sun quickly deprives it of life-giving moisture.

• If cultivation is planned in southern latitudes, then you can give preference to the openwork shade of trees, or the west or east side of the building.
• If regions north, where warmth pleases, not very often, and heat is not at all possible, then only the southern side will be suitable for growing a capricious culture.

You cannot choose low-lying space. Constant stagnant water will contribute to decay of the root system and the spread of fungal diseases. In the case of "no choice", it is necessary to equip a drainage system that will help to produce a timely outflow of water.

Site selection

The strawberry plantation should be well lit by the sun, and there should be no stagnant moisture in the soil.

When choosing a site, immediately determine how long the culture is going to arrive on it. Ideally, strawberries are grown in one place without sacrificing yield for 3-4 years.

Modern intensive technologies, practice cultivation for 1–2 years, and then the culture moves to another area.

You also need to take care of the predecessor. Strawberries cannot be placed after nightshade crops due to common diseases... It is better if green salad crops (parsley, radish, lettuce) grow in front of the strawberries in the beds.

Site preparation

If you plan to plant a strawberry garden in the spring, then the preparatory work should begin in the fall.

Preparing a strawberry bed begins with digging and removing weeds.

1. Remove weeds from the area.
2. Scatter ripe pork, cow, horse humus over the entire area, taking into account that m2 area needed 10-12 kg... If it is difficult with humus, you can use purchased granulated chicken manure and scatter according to the manufacturer's instructions. Compost made from plant residues is also a good alternative to organic fertilizers.
3. Further, furnace ash is scattered over the surface, which will be a source of potassium, phosphorus and other minerals valuable for culture. Ash will help balance acidity and "stifle" pests hibernating in the ground. The amount of this valuable mineral should be within 1 kg / m2.
4. Scatter superphosphate on top 40-50 g / m2.
5. Then everything is carefully dug up without further harrowing.

   Everything is almost ready.

In this state, the site goes under the snow.

After the snow melts, the prepared bed will sag and it will be possible to plant strawberries.

Purchase of planting material

You need to take care of the purchase in advance. In order for strawberries to please as long as possible, it is better to give preference to varieties with different ripening periods in equal parts. Early, medium, late strawberries will make the conveyor of berries to your table a long time.

If you want to have strawberries from spring to late autumn, then you cannot do without remontant varieties.

When purchasing seedlings, carefully examine them; if the color of leaves, rosettes or roots is suspicious, it is better to refuse to purchase.

Inspect your strawberry seedling carefully before purchasing.

Buying planting material in breeding nurseries and specialized points of sale, you can be more confident in the quality of seedlings and compliance with the variety.

When choosing a variety, give preference to zoned strawberries, the one that responds well to your natural conditions.

Planting seedlings

Growing strawberries can be done in two ways:

• carpet method;
• private.

Carpet way

The carpet method is convenient for those who rarely visit the site - overgrown bushes rarely need watering and loosening.

When planting with a carpet, the distance between the bushes must be maintained 25 by 25 cm, and the planting density is 5-6 bushes per square meter. Initially, it will seem that strawberries are rarely planted, but when they give a mustache by the middle of summer, then there will be much less space.

The carpet technique is used mainly where there are few beds and caring for them will not be burdensome.

Ordinary way

Strawberries planted in rows develop well and give a stable harvest.

If the planting is carried out by an ordinary method, then the distance between the bushes is 20–25 cm, and between rows 60–70 cm, the rows can run either one at a time or 2-3 without row spacing.

When planting a bed, seedlings must be dipped into a hole along the neck, so that the outlet is not covered with soil. Watering the plant, you can, if necessary, slightly pull it up.

With any planting method, it is important to monitor the placement of the "heart" of the seedling at soil level.

About watering strawberries

Initially, after planting, watering is carried out 2 times a day. After partial rooting once. And then 3-4 times a week until complete rooting.

Young strawberry seedlings need to be watered more often.

Strawberry moisture-loving culture... Its root system does not perceive dry soil at all. The roots are located superficially and at the slightest drying out, the bushes begin to fade. When watering, the leaves will restore turgor, but each violation of agricultural technology will inevitably affect the yield of the crop.

Modern technologies make it possible to provide strawberries with moisture, regardless of climatic and regional characteristics. Drip irrigation is the best way to balance the level of moisture supply.

To control the crop's need for water, it is enough to dig a hole near the root system, if the soil is not dry, the humidity is optimal.

Harvesting

In the process of harvesting

The moment of harvest is as responsible as any other event. Do not allow strawberries to remain ripe in the garden for a long time.

Berries are harvested daily, in the morning.... During this period, strawberries least of all need watering, and excessive moisture can lead to the fact that the berry will be watery.

Waterlogging contributes to the spread of fungal diseases and bacterial rot.

Selection of planting material

The strawberry whiskers are either retained for propagation or trimmed.

Strawberries multiply intensively. If at first this pleases the gardener, then further it is necessary to remove the mustache in a timely manner, if varieties with intensive formation are preferred.

The mustache is trimmed with scissors or a sickle and discarded if there is no need for additional planting material.

If seedlings are needed, then the mustache takes root. The first two rosettes on the mustache are considered the best material, the rest are removed.

To grow quality planting material it is necessary to ensure that rooting takes place in loose soil, moist soil and with constant pouring of fresh compost or humus... By autumn, the strawberry seedlings will be ready to be transplanted to a new location.

Agricultural technology of cultivation

It is good to feed flowering strawberries with a fertilizer on a biological basis, which does not contain "chemicals" and "gently" acts on the root system.

During the period of fruiting and growing seedlings, strawberries took a sufficient amount of nutrients from the soil and they need to be replenished... However, in the fall, the culture does not need nitrogenous compounds, but it needs to help lay the buds of flowering and prepare for winter.

Autumn is the time for phosphate-potash feeding. Having diluted in a bucket of water 50 g potassium sulfate and superphosphate under each bush you need to add 200-250 g... A good measure would be to scatter stove ash in the aisles and under bushes - 1 kg / m2.

The plant will not be able to use the stove ash immediately, but the autumn rains, melted snow and spring moisture will help the elements move to the root zone, and next year the minerals will be available for absorption by the root system.

Another good top dressing is an infusion of chicken manure with nettles.

Spring cleaning

With the onset of the first warm days, the soil begins to warm up rapidly, and the green rosette of strawberries starts to grow. It is necessary to hurry and remove old foliage, mustaches and weeds from the row spacings.

If the aisles have not been dug up since the fall, this can be done in the spring, but it is better that the wintering forms of pathogens and pests do not have time to come to the surface. If digging is not planned, then it is simply necessary to loosen the earth that has caked after winter.

In spring, old leaves are cut off from strawberries.

Spring feeding

Spring, the time of intensive regrowth of the vegetative mass. To do this, strawberries need fast-acting nutrients, so you need to use nitrogenous mineral supplements.

It is better to take ammonium nitrate or urea as a fertilizer. Dissolve 2 tbsp in a bucket of water. spoons and pour 200-350 ml under each bush. The first feeding should be done in early spring, immediately after the sanitary cleaning. The second nitrogenous fertilizing is carried out at the moment the peduncle extends, with the same fertilizers and in the same dose.

Manure solutions show themselves well as spring feeding. For this, pig, cow or horse manure is poured with water at the rate of 1:10, and chicken droppings are 1:20. For each bush, you can safely add 200-250 ml.

"Foliar" dressing

If strawberries are planted on sandy soils, then the leaching of nutrients is more intensive, so there is a need to carry out foliar feeding.

Foliar dressing is carried out before the berries ripen.

In a bucket of water, dissolve 1 tablespoon of ammonium nitrate, 2-3 g of crystalline boric acid and 3-4 drops of alcohol tincture of 5% iodine, mix everything and process strawberries on a leaf from a spray bottle.

Pests and diseases

In the technology of growing strawberries in the open field, there are events that are carried out constantly - these are observations. The enemy does not sleep.

The causative agents of bacterial and fungal diseases, pests can sit hiding for years. They are always there, but their population is very small to harm our garden.

Under the confluence of circumstances, natural and weather factors the explosion of malicious agents can be instantaneousso you need to be on the lookout at all times.

A constant inspection of the plantation will help in time to recognize the pathogen or pest and treat the site so as not to give the opportunity to spread to such limits when it will no longer be possible to save the strawberry garden.

Video about preparing the beds for autumn planting of strawberries