How to grow strawberries in a greenhouse step by step instructions?

Foreword

When grown according to Dutch technology, up to 25 kg of large berries can be harvested from 1 square meter and the bushes bear fruit almost all year round. Is this possible, and can growing strawberries in a greenhouse become a profitable business - read on.

Greenhouse strawberries - we select the best varieties and hybrids

High-quality planting material is already half the success, especially when we are talking about seedlings. Each variety and hybrid has a certain potential yield, more than which it is simply unrealistic to get even with ideal care conditions - you can't jump over your head. Therefore, if you seriously want to grow berries, you need to choose the right seedlings that would correspond to the conditions of your greenhouse, and also satisfy all your wishes. Today there are more than 250 different varieties, among which there are extremely sweet, sour, large-fruited and others. Let's consider the most popular options for industrial cultivation.

Albion. The most popular variety of American selection, which has been extremely popular among domestic gardeners for several years. Despite the fact that strawberries are a crop of neutral daylight hours, they bear fruit no worse than remontant varieties, and from the end of May you can enjoy delicious berries. It finishes bearing fruit approximately on November 15-25, when the air temperature drops to 0 degrees. The fruits are medium-sized, up to 25 grams, but the average weight is 12 grams. The strawberry was bred by crossing Cal94.16-1 and Diamante. The latter variety was very popular in the early 90s.

Brighton. The remontant strawberry is distinguished by a relatively high yield and a large mass of fruits. 1 berry can weigh up to 150 grams, and the average weight is 80 grams. Thanks to such indicators, it is very realistic to collect 100 kg / ha (100 kg from 1 are), which is why Brighton is one of the most famous industrial hybrids. The fruits are perfectly transported and stored for a long time, as they have a low wateriness.

Queen Elizabeth 2. Anyone who has not yet come across this type of remontant strawberry must definitely have it in their greenhouse or in the open field. It is number 1 on the territory of the Russian Federation and many European countries due to its yield. It has a dessert purpose, the fruits are very sweet, large and numerous.From 1 bush for the entire fruiting period, you can collect up to 4 kg of berries! This is about 320-350 c / ha or 350 kg from 1 are! Queen Elizabeth II's only drawback is her poor portability. It is extremely inconvenient and difficult to transport it, since the berries are very juicy and can choke, it is impossible to lay them in a thick layer. An excellent variety for freezing in the freezer and for drying, as the pulp density is high.

Diva F1. One of the best remontant hybrids in Russia. It was bred in Holland, but for 10 years it has been successfully grown in our territory and is perfectly acclimatized. Withstands severe frosts in winter, is not exposed to most diseases. The hybrid is very resistant to different types of spotting. If we talk about taste, then the Prima Donna has a very high sugar content, for which gardeners liked it. Despite the relatively low yield of 80 c / ha, it is grown in almost every nursery. It has an increased warmth and is excellently transported over long distances.

There are other high-yielding hybrids and varieties of strawberries for indoor use: Capella, Sakhalin large-fruited, Tristan, Charlotte, Diamant, Arapakho and the like. But they are much more sensitive to many diseases, inferior in taste to the varieties described above, and also have a significantly lower yield. They are planted mainly for their own needs and for a change in the greenhouse or in the garden.

How to plant bushes correctly - Russian and Dutch technologies

There are several planting techniques. Depending on which one you use, the yield of the berries will vary. Let's start with the usual "Russian" landing technology.

STEP 1Soil preparation

The entire area of ​​the greenhouse is divided into 2 parts along (or more, depending on the width of the structure, as a rule, 1 strip - 1 meter) between which a technical strip is left for movement. It is filled with expanded clay crumbs or fine gravel 5-6 cm, then sand 8-10 centimeters. Fertile soil 7-8 centimeters thick is laid on top, after which superphosphate and ammonium nitrate are added in an amount of 10 grams per 1 square meter.

STEP 2Preparation and planting of seedlings

Pits are made in the soil 8-10 centimeters deep at a distance of 30 centimeters, after which strawberry rosettes are planted, staggered or in a row. Oilcloth or agrofibre is often used to avoid weeds and retain as much moisture as possible, but you can do without this in a greenhouse, as excessive moisture can lead to decay of the roots and stem.

STEP 3Shrub care and subsequent tillage

As the soil depletes, potash fertilizers, superphosphate and ammonium nitrate are applied, nitrogen supplements are used for the first 2 months to gain the vegetative mass of the plant. Abundant drip irrigation is carried out, almost daily for the first 3-4 weeks, while the bushes take root and after 5-8 days in the subsequent period.

This was the standard planting scheme, but if you want to get more yield and make optimal use of the greenhouse area, then Dutch technology is offered to your attention. What is its essence and differences from domestic methods of strawberry cultivation? Let's take a closer look.

1. Seedlings in a greenhouse are not planted in the soil, but in pots, which are installed in several tiers. Depending on the height of the worker and the characteristics of the bushes, there can be up to 8 such tiers. Thus, you save space - up to 50 or more bushes can fit on 1 square meter! This allows you to significantly increase the yield per unit area, and in a small greenhouse of 100 square meters, you can place 30-40 acres of berries!
2. The fruits are easy to pick and they will not get dirty in the mud, like in the garden, because all the fruits will hang from the flowerpot and do not touch anything.Thus, you will save a lot of time in the subsequent processing of your crop, and immediately after its harvest, it has a presentation.
3. Growing strawberries in closed ground using Dutch technology allows you to get much more yield not only from a unit area, but also from one bush, since the plant receives both light and oxygen in abundance. Moreover, the pots are much higher than the ground and the cold air that always sinks to the bottom does not reach them. Growth and productivity increase significantly, and such greenhouses can be heated much less - additional energy savings in the cold season.
4. Watering such a "bed" is more economical. If you are interested in how to grow strawberries in a greenhouse at minimal cost, be sure to pay attention to the Dutch technology. In pots, water evaporates much longer than in soil, especially if they are properly drained. Thus, if you run drip hoses over all pots, you can spend 50-70% less water on watering your plants.

For growing according to Dutch technology, both ordinary strawberry varieties and remontant ones are suitable. The only limitation is too tall bushes. For example, Queen Elizabeth II requires large growing vessels, since her root system is 6-7 times larger than that of conventional "rowers". However, these are all working moments and, if you wish, you can even grow a tree in a pot.

There is also growing in bags - this is the Russian answer to the Dutch technology, where ordinary plastic bags are used instead of ceramic pots. The essence of this method is very simple: a special soil is prepared (similar to the above methods, only without drainage), which is poured into a plastic bag, after which holes are made from above, and seedlings are planted. One of the main advantages of this method is efficiency, because one such "vessel" will cost 8-10 rubles and it is intended for 4-5 bushes. The disadvantages include the inconvenience of processing and watering (you need to use sprayers, waste gallons of water), and also not aesthetic appearance.

Indoor strawberries - planting time and temperature

Many believe that it is possible to plant seedlings in the middle of winter and that the berries will be much earlier, but this is not at all the case. Strawberries are a plant that responds to changes in daylight hours and the best planting times for them are late February and early March. This is due to even more factors, such as temperature. It is necessary to maintain up to +22 degrees and at least +12 in the room, so that the bushes grow and develop normally. At a relatively cold air temperature, they will not throw a mustache and, moreover, form fruits.

The first days after planting, it is advisable to maintain +25 degrees, so that the seedlings take up well and begin to put out additional roots. Then you can lower the temperature to +15 as the bush takes root. In unheated greenhouses, this should be done already at the end of March, when there is no frost, since most varieties may not even survive -5 degrees after the formation of a mustache and color. If you are going to get solid harvests, then there is no hurry, because what goes quieter ... gets more.

Pollination - is it necessary and how to do it

Strawberries in a greenhouse are quite problematic in terms of pollination - insects, wind or heavy rainfall are needed to fertilize them, but this is not all indoors. How to be? There are several ways how you can pollinate bushes, let's look at the main ones.

1. Make the wind. This is the simplest method with pollination efficiency up to 90%. To do this, you need several fans that will create air currents in different directions and carry the pollen of the plants.A greenhouse of 100 square meters requires up to 3 fans, they must be turned on during the flowering period of the bushes, you can only for a few hours a day. The situation is somewhat more complicated in the case of remontant varieties - they bloom almost constantly. In this case, it is necessary to "pollinate" 2-3 times a week for 3-4 hours a day.
2. Get insects. Best of all is a hive. Disadvantages: insects sting, during the wintering period the bees cannot be touched, there is very little space for departure, after a couple of days they must be released, the hive cannot be transferred so that the insects do not get lost. The advantage is high-quality pollination, at least 95%.
3. Make a shower. If you have strong sprayers, you can water the bushes. The disadvantage is the low fertilization process of flowers - no more than 45%, since a lot of pollen will be washed off with water.
4. You can also simply make a draft in the greenhouse by opening 2 windows on opposite sides. Ideal if the outside is warm and the wind is moderate. Important:if there is a weak frame or film in the greenhouse, a draft must not be made, since the structure may open or fall... Also, you cannot ventilate at low temperatures (less than +7 degrees), since you will harm the strawberry flowers more and they will fall off.

Pollination is obligatory, and without it, it is simply pointless to count on a large harvest of berries. For even greater efficiency of the process, it is necessary to ensure that during flowering the temperature is not lower than +15 degrees and not more than +25, since the pollen stickiness, in this case, drops very quickly.

The main diseases and methods of dealing with them

Inexperienced gardeners believe that a greenhouse is a salvation from many diseases and pests, and the berries in it will be completely intact. In fact, when grown indoors, there will be much more diseases, in particular, due to the lack of high-quality ventilation. Therefore, it is necessary to meet troubles fully armed and know the basic methods of dealing with the most common fungi, infections and pests.

1. White rot. Due to the high relative humidity indoors, white mold can form on strawberries, which looks like a very thin cobweb in lumps. The leaves on the plant suddenly begin to brighten and dry up after a couple of days, and the berries rot in the affected areas. The mycelium is practically not eliminated by anything, it is very resistant to drying, so an increase in temperature and a decrease in relative humidity will do nothing. Control measures are cardinal - removal of infected berries and leaves and burning them. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to increase the room temperature and install a dehumidifier - most fungal spores will die, while others will simply be inactive.
2. White spot. Almost every gardener knows her, since it is very difficult not to meet her. The first symptoms: the leaves turn into a white speck, such circles can be up to 8 millimeters, they are brown at the edges, the center is very light, almost white, due to which the disease is called so. It usually develops during the flowering period of berries, destroying leaves, stems, sepals. Peduncles can change color, become darker. The disease progresses with abundant watering and high relative humidity in the room, as well as high planting density. It can cause the loss of the entire crop if you do not fight back in time. The treatment is a treatment with Falcon, Euparen, or copper sulfate (the proportions are written on the packaging of the preparations).
3. Brown spotting. No less common disease, which, in special cases, "mows" up to 60% of all plants. As a rule, in the first half of the season, it does not make itself felt, or it manifests itself only on some bushes, and by the beginning of August it begins to progress fully. The leaves darken at the edges and acquire a bright brown color, then darken a little and dry out.The disease is very dangerous not only for the harvest, but also for the propagation of strawberries, as it affects leaves, flowers and even antennae. The fungus multiplies and hides on the affected plant, and hibernates on it, so the most effective method of control is to remove the affected branches as soon as the fungus is diagnosed. Preventive spraying with Euparen and Metaxylene will provide increased plant resistance to damage by this type of biological activity.
4. Powdery mildew - the greatest enemy of greenhouse plants. At high relative humidity, as well as at low temperatures, it develops exponentially. The disease can be identified by the characteristic white bloom that forms on the underside of the leaf blade. After a while, it appears from above, and then throughout the plant, including flowers, antennae and sepals. The leaves are twisted into a "pipe", after which they dry up and fall off, the plant stops synthesizing organic matter and dies. You can fight powdery mildew using copper sulfate, soap solution (4%) and Quadrix. But it is easier to remove infected plants and monitor the optimum room humidity.
5. Late blight of roots... Very insidious zoospores that are in the soil affect the root system, mainly at the end of May, when the soil temperature reaches +20 degrees. Gradually, the roots turn red and die off. As a result, the plant dries up. It is very difficult to diagnose and, in most cases, gardeners see the problem after the "opening" of the bush - the roots are reddened and withered. You can try to identify the symptoms by the leaves - young leaves are much smaller than they should be, too light. Treatment with Quadrix helps by 70%, and the main method of control is the removal of diseased plants and the improvement of the plantation.

It is not only unprofitable to treat many diseases, but it is also pointless, since it will take a long time and the bush will still not bear fruit. If plants die in isolated cases, then the best way to get rid of the problem is to get rid of the plant itself. If you are tracking a pest invasion or mass infection, then you need to resort to chemistry and change the conditions in the greenhouse.

Reproduction of strawberries in greenhouse conditions

25-30 days after the seedlings take root and begin to actively gain vegetative mass, antennae will begin to appear - generative organs. In 2 weeks, new outlets will begin to take root, it is then that it is necessary to water the soil abundantly and raise the temperature to +22 degrees, so that the lateral and main roots can take root as well.

After the rosette becomes thick (4-5 stems), it is removed from the soil. To do this, you need a pruner, a spatula or a wide knife. We cut off the tendril at the base of the new outlet with a pruning shears, from which it appeared and all the new processes. We also discard the subsequent bushes and immediately cut off the antennae as soon as they begin to appear on the daughter plant. Then we dig in with a spatula from all sides, without damaging the roots - it is better to leave more soil on the rhizome. If the ground is dense, it is more practical to use a knife. We move it to a new hole (first add superphosphate and a growth stimulant) and water it abundantly. After 2-3 days, the plant will "move away", acquire a dark green color, and begin to grow actively.

Continuous and profitable production of high quality products is an excellent basis for starting your own business. A suitable option for this activity is the cultivation and cultivation of delicious strawberries in a greenhouse. The use of Dutch technology allows you to get a good harvest all year round. The given step-by-step instructions will help even a novice gardener to cope with the task at hand. The video provided clearly demonstrates the theory of the method.

Understanding the essence of Dutch cultivation technology

Regular profit is a natural desire of many businessmen. Breeding strawberries using the proposed method is one of the ways of its implementation.
The essence of the method by which the harvest is obtained year-round can be reduced to several main points:

1. Cultivation is carried out in a closed ground - a greenhouse. Directly the bushes of plants themselves grow in boxes, bags, flowerpots, special pallets, without touching the ground.
2. A continuous planting of pre-harvested seedlings is done (approximately every 1.5-2 months).
3. Special conditions are created for fruitful growth and harvest. These include: additional lighting, drip irrigation.
4. Berry bushes are regularly fed with special fertilizers.

Further, in more detail about each stage of the process, as well as the features of the technology.

When grown according to Dutch technology, strawberries do not touch the ground

Benefits of the Dutch way

Familiarization with the main components of the process under consideration makes its advantages very obvious:

• crop stability. Every 2 months throughout the whole year;
• presentation of berries, absence of diseases. After all, the bushes are deprived of the opportunity to come into contact with the ground;
• obtaining the maximum number of fruits in the smallest areas;
• profitable investment. The purchased equipment has been used for a long time;
• excellent taste of strawberries, not inferior to berries "under the sun".

Of course, for the effective organization of the "berry business" you need to follow certain recommendations. Starting from the choice of the variety, the correct preparation of seedlings, the creation of optimal conditions - ending with the harvest.

Strawberries can be harvested every 2 months

Choosing a strawberry variety

In this case, the well-known proverb “what you sow is what you reap” has the most direct meaning, not metaphorical one. Which variety the grower prefers will get the result.

Advice. It is very important to choose remontant self-pollinating strawberry varieties. Otherwise, it is impossible to get a stable collection of berries and you will have to pollinate yourself with a brush, increasing the time spent on growing.

Favorite varieties suitable for the Dutch method are:

• Maria;
• Tribute;
• Elsanta;
• Polka;
• Tristar;
• Marmolada;
• Sonata.

Over time, having tried various varieties in practice, it is easy for a gardener to choose the most suitable in terms of practicality and the one that suits his taste.

Self-pollinating strawberry varieties are required for Dutch cultivation

Good seedlings - rich harvest

To obtain high-quality bushes capable of giving a bountiful harvest, several important steps should be performed sequentially:

1. Plants are planted in the soil fertilized since autumn (about 20 kg of lime, 3 kg of potassium chloride, 5 kg of superphosphate, 5 buckets of organic fertilizers per 1 hundred square meters).
2. Uterine bushes will have about 15-20 whiskers next year. Their rooting is the future planting material for the greenhouse (rosette).
3. Around the end of October (the onset of the dormant period), they are dug up.
4. Then the bushes are cleaned of excess leaves, soil (it is better not to touch the roots, do not cut, do not rinse with water), tied in bunches.
5. A refrigerator or a room with a temperature of + 1-0 degrees is suitable for storage.
6. Before planting, the seedlings are taken out, kept at a temperature of about +12 degrees for 24 hours, then planted in a greenhouse.
7. When the crop is harvested, the strawberry bushes are thrown away. The strongest and most fertile must be left to grow new seedlings. In this case, the mother bushes in the greenhouse are changed once every 2 years, and not after 4, as when growing berries in the open field.

Attention! In the first year, absolutely all existing antennae and peduncles must be removed from the uterine bushes.

The resulting seedlings must be planted in prepared containers in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the sockets is approximately 35 cm.The containers can be placed horizontally or vertically. The choice of accommodation option must be approached individually. Depending on the available area for production, the possibilities of organizing lighting, the personal preferences of the owner.

Strawberries are grown in seedlings

Soil preparation is an important stage

The substrate for filling containers where strawberry bushes will be planted in the future consists of:

• perlite, peat;
• coconut fiber, mineral wool.

Adding ordinary earth to the resulting mixture is contraindicated. Since the likelihood of infection with pests, diseases, weeds is excessively high. Better not to risk it. The primer used must be sterile.

Lighting and watering

You need to take care of the sunlight when building a greenhouse. However, additional lighting will still be needed, since plants should be exposed to light for 16-18 hours. The fluorescent lamps located about a meter from the bushes with berries "cope" with this task.

For watering strawberries grown in the Dutch way, only drip irrigation is used.

Advice. When organizing watering, it is necessary to avoid the possible ingress of water droplets on the leaves or flowers of plants. Especially the soil should be watered. Otherwise, the bushes will become infected with various diseases.

In the greenhouse, during fruiting, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of 28 degrees

It is also important to ensure the required temperature (before flowering 21 degrees, during the flowering period - 28), humidity (70-80%), soil PH (neutral). If the air humidity has dropped, spraying helps. If it has increased, the number of airings is reduced.

It is advisable to collect ripe strawberries immediately in containers that are intended for transportation and sale. Since the well-known property of berries is progressing quickly deteriorate when they are transferred to other boxes.

Performing all stages of strawberry cultivation using the Dutch method, of course, will allow you to harvest a bountiful harvest of berries with excellent taste and appearance all year round. And the income directly depends on the number of berries grown. The described technology is applicable for the smallest volumes.

Dutch strawberry cultivation technology - video

Lovers of fresh strawberries can enjoy delicious berries even in winter. The cultivation and cultivation of strawberries using Dutch technology in specially equipped greenhouses helps horticultural enterprises to meet consumer demand. Many novice gardeners are also trying to master this technique, so that on their tables on any day there is a plate with fresh fragrant berries grown in their greenhouses. Practice has shown that the Dutch method has become the most profitable and least costly. A video with step-by-step instructions will familiarize you in more detail with this process from "A" to "Z".

Main technological stages

The main condition for the cultivation of such an unpretentious plant like strawberries is the presence of a greenhouse with heating and additional lighting. Whatever one may say, winters in the middle lane are frosty, not a single plant will survive in such climatic conditions.

If you have solved the issue with the greenhouse, you can proceed to the most basic process, which should be carried out in stages.

The first stage is the preparation and storage of planting material

Strawberries can be propagated using seeds or whiskers that form on the mother bush. The seeds are always ready for planting, but the mustache must be prepared in advance in the amount that is required for the entire off-season period, they do it as follows:

• The most fruitful bushes with large berries are determined on the garden bed, all leaves and shoots are cut off from such a plant in the fall.
• In the next season, these uterine bushes will give much more whiskers suitable for transplanting (up to 20 pieces).

Strawberry seedlings

• After the completion of the period of fruit formation on the bushes, the mustache, with the roots formed on them, is cut off.
• The roots are washed with water (a weak solution of potassium permanganate can be used) and dried slightly in air.
• The material prepared in this way can be stored at a temperature of 2-3 degrees for two months, that is, until winter planting, in a refrigerator, cellar or warm shed.

Attention! Several root shoots (rosettes) can form on the mustache, only those that are closer to the bush (first and second) should be selected, subsequent shoots can be safely disposed of, they are not suitable for harvesting and storage.

The second stage is the selection of the footprint and soil

You can choose a very different place or container for strawberry seedlings: plastic bags, plastic sleeves, or individual peat pots. If you strictly follow the Dutch method, then in the homeland of this technology, polyethylene pipes (sleeves) up to 2 meters long are used. A special substance is placed inside, resembling a soil mixture, holes are made in the pipe on top and seedlings are planted in them.

Particular attention is paid to the composition of the soil mixture. It must be decontaminated, the land from the personal plot is not very suitable for these purposes. The substrate should contain:

• sterile soil mixture;
• perlite;
• mineral wool or coconut fiber;
• peat.

Advice. The potting soil can be purchased at the store, or you can sterilize your garden soil yourself. There are many methods of disinfection, both mechanical and chemical, including roasting or freezing.

The third stage - planting care and plant feeding

Strawberry planting can be arranged horizontally or vertically, depending on the size of the greenhouse and your imagination. Having finished the phase of planting seedlings and having passed the period of "forced awakening" (forcing) of plants, we proceed to the stage of planting care and obtaining a harvest. There are many conditions to be fulfilled for the favorable and comfortable development and fruiting of each bush:

Strawberry greenhouse

• Water the plants regularly, avoiding the ingress of liquid on the berries and leaves. With the Dutch method, gardeners use a drip irrigation system, purchase a ready-made one in a store, or make it themselves.
• If necessary (to artificially increase the duration of daylight hours), it is necessary to use additional lighting (turn on fluorescent lamps for 2 hours before dawn and after sunset). To avoid worrying about this all the time, use simple lighting timers.
• The temperature timer is useful for monitoring the temperature regime in the greenhouse room, in case of a decrease or an undesirable increase in the level of the column on the thermometer, it should notify the owner of such a situation. According to the Dutch method, during the growth period, strawberries should be at a temperature of 18 to 22 degrees, and during flowering, it is necessary to maintain 26-28 degrees.
• It is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse so that fresh air provides the plant with oxygen, it is also a preventive measure to protect against fungal diseases.
• It is very important to maintain normal humidity levels in the greenhouse. During the planting period, the level of 85% is considered the norm, then it should be reduced to 70-75%. If the humidity is below normal, it is increased using sprays and humidifiers.

Strawberries in the greenhouse will need additional lighting

• If the strawberry varieties you have chosen for planting are not self-pollinating, you will have to pollinate by hand or with a fan.
• Every 2 months, bushes that have finished bearing fruit are replaced with new ones, and the harvest does not stop all year round.

Advice. To grow strawberries in greenhouses, you should choose remontant and self-pollinating varieties, then you will avoid the need for manual pollination and frequent plant changes.

Gardeners appreciate the Dutch method

The advantages that distinguish the unique method:

1. With regular plant replacement, a year-round harvest takes place, every 2 months - a new harvest.
2. High profitability and regular profit from the sale of products (berries, fresh seedlings).
3. Taste qualities are not inferior to fruits grown in the open field.
4. Seedling containers are reused after disinfection.
5. The plantings are protected from damage by fungal diseases and pests.
6. There is the possibility of arranging landings in a horizontal or vertical position.

For businessmen interested in making a profit, or a gardener who grows strawberries for his family, this method will make it possible to achieve their goals - it is convenient and simple. Go for it, you will succeed!

Growing strawberries in pipes: video

Until recently, the cultivation of strawberries in winter was only possible for greenhouse complexes with industrial capacities. Now, planting strawberries in a greenhouse will surprise no one - modern varieties and technologies allow anyone to do this.

Of course, year-round cultivation of strawberries requires financial investment, labor and knowledge, but with enough effort it can pay off. In addition, even if you are not going to make a business out of growing strawberries in a greenhouse, it can become an interesting hobby.

Equipment for growing strawberries

The most expensive thing in growing strawberries is building a greenhouse and its equipment. You cannot do with an ordinary wooden greenhouse with a film cover - it, of course, is able to accelerate the ripening of berries in summer, but it will not stand the winter.

Therefore, usually for winter cultivation of strawberries, a glass or polycarbonate greenhouse is installed on a wooden or metal frame. The thickness of the polycarbonate must be at least 16 mm, and the base is strong enough not to fall through under the load of snow. For residents of the northern regions and those who want to significantly save on heating, a thermos greenhouse partially submerged in the ground can be an excellent option.

• Building a thermos greenhouse: step by step instructions

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In addition to the greenhouse itself, you will need:

• phyto-lamps or fluorescent lamps capable of providing plantings with 10-14 hour daylight hours;
• drip irrigation system;
• a heating system that maintains a uniform temperature in the greenhouse;
• fans that provide air movement and uniform heating at different heights;
• thermometer and hygrometer (temperature and humidity sensor);
• racks, pots and boxes (for tiered planting).

Greenhouse strawberry varieties

Not every variety is suitable for growing strawberries for sale or for your own needs in the cold season. Only varieties with a certain set of qualities will give a large harvest:

• self-pollinating (setting fruits without insects), because putting a hive with bees in a winter greenhouse is quite difficult and too expensive, and it is irrational to pollinate thousands of inflorescences yourself.
• neutral day varieties (they bear fruit continuously, tying fruit buds every 5-6 weeks).
• with berries that are stable, transportable and leveled in size.

Many varieties satisfy these criteria, but most of them are not of Russian selection, so you will also have to spend money on planting material. If you want a guaranteed high result, choose: Albion, Pineapple, Arapaho, Brighton, Mount Everest, Darselect, Elizabeth II, Temptation, Capri, Crown, Linosa, Mahern, Moscow delicacy, Ozark Beauty, Red Rich, Sakhalin, Tribute, Truffau Producer, Tristar, Elsinore, Everest and others.

It is important to remember that strawberry seedlings must be prepared and tested before they are planted in the greenhouse. Purchased seedlings in the summer need to be planted in open ground, check their fruiting and varietal qualities, and then collect and plant the "mustache" that they will give in the second half of summer.

These "mustaches" are actively watered and fed, helping them to form a developed root system, and at the end of October (before the onset of frost) they are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 8-10 cm, the leaves are removed and put into storage (cellar) with a temperature from 0 to -2 ° C. Only after a dormant period, which, depending on the variety, can last from several weeks to 9 months, are the bushes ready for planting in the greenhouse.

If you do not want to spend the whole season preparing planting material, you can buy frigo strawberry seedlings in the nursery, which has already passed all the necessary stages of preparation.

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Methods for growing strawberries in a greenhouse

The yield and payback rate of the greenhouse depends on which method of planting strawberries you choose. On average, up to 60 kg of berries can be harvested from 1 square meter of strawberry plantings per year, but this figure is reached by experienced farmers, and beginners in the first couple of years can count on only a 50% result.

Growing strawberries in the ground

The easiest and most common way is to plant strawberries in a greenhouse directly into the ground (regular or high ridges). Of course, this limits the usable area of ​​the greenhouse to one level, but it allows you to spend a minimum of time on maintenance.

When planting in the ground, the bushes are planted at a distance of 20 × 20 cm, and the bed is covered with spunbond or mulch. This allows you to protect plants from pests, the earth from drying out, and yourself from regular weeding.

Growing strawberries using Dutch technology

Practical Dutch technology allows you to get the most out of even a small greenhouse. On it, strawberry bushes are planted in bags with nutritious soil and are replaced after each fruiting.

This technology gives a significant increase in the yield, but it is rather difficult to implement it - the plantings need racks, a complex branched system of drip irrigation and fertilization, as well as a separate plantation for growing seedlings.

Growing strawberries in horizontal PVC pipes

The method of growing in PVC pipes is visually similar to the previous method. The pipes themselves are both a support on which the bushes are located and a container for soil, and do not allow water to pass through, which means that you can start watering directly over them.

For the construction, PVC pipes of two sizes are needed: with a diameter of 100-150 mm and thinner, with a diameter of 20-30 mm, but longer. In thick pipes, using a drill with a wide nozzle or a grinder, cut holes up to 5 cm in diameter at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Small holes are drilled in thin pipes, then the pipe is wrapped with geotextile or agrofiber and fixed with wire.

Expanded clay is poured at the bottom of thick pipes for drainage, then thin pipes are inserted through which water and fertilizers will be supplied, and then the rest of the soil is covered with fertile soil, and seedlings are planted in the holes from above.

Irrigation pipes are connected to an automated irrigation system or a large container of water raised to the very ceiling of the greenhouse. Wide PVC pipes on both sides are closed with plugs so that the water does not wash out the soil.

Each adult strawberry bush needs 3-5 liters of soil.

For detailed instructions on the construction of such structures, planting seedlings in them, caring for plants in summer and winter, see our article Growing strawberries in PVC pipes - instructions for beginners with a video.

Growing strawberries in pots and containers

For the smallest greenhouses, for example, half-slope greenhouses attached to one of the walls of the house, or winter gardens, growing strawberries in pots is suitable. This option is not suitable for business, but it can significantly diversify your family's diet in winter and cold seasons.

Watering, supplementary lighting and feeding remain the same as in large greenhouses, however, a small number of bushes will keep the time spent caring for strawberries to a minimum.

Care for strawberries in the greenhouse

Strawberries in a greenhouse in winter require special care and close, almost every minute attention. After all, it is worth once overcooling or undernourishing the plants, and the entire plantation can lose the crop or die, and all the work and investments will be in vain.

How to prepare a greenhouse for planting strawberries

After the construction and technical equipment of the greenhouse is completed, it's time to start preparing the soil. If growing berries is a business for you, and you want to know exactly how many strawberry bushes to plant in the greenhouse so that it is profitable to grow it, then you should not save on the soil. Use coconut fiber, rock wool, or a ready-made substrate.

If you grow berries exclusively for your own needs, then you can prepare the soil yourself. To do this, spill the garden soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, add into it a bucket of rotted manure and low-lying peat, half a bucket of coarse-grained river sand, 70 g of superphosphate, 2 glasses of ash and 20 g of carbamide per 1 sq. Mix the resulting soil thoroughly, remove all stones, plant debris, larvae and insect eggs.

Conditions for growing strawberries in a year-round greenhouse

How soon the first flowers and ovaries will appear on the strawberries depends on the growing conditions of the bushes. Typically, each variety requires specific planting and growing conditions. But there are also rules common to all that guarantee a good harvest.

1. During planting of seedlings, the temperature in the greenhouse should be 10-12 ° C, during the growth of greenery, it is raised to 20 ° C, and before flowering up to 24 ° C.
2. The optimum humidity in the greenhouse is about 85% during planting, and not higher than 70% when strawberries are blooming.
3. When watering, water should not get on the flowers and leaves, so drip irrigation of strawberries is necessary.
4. In addition to windows for ventilation, which can be opened in summer and at positive temperatures, a forced ventilation system should be thought out for the winter.
5. Strawberries need at least 8 hours of daylight. Under such conditions, it will bloom two weeks after planting, and the berries will tie in a month and a half. If you double the daylight hours, then the first flowers will appear in 10 days, and the berries - in 35-37 days. It is necessary to light up strawberries continuously only on cloudy days, the rest of the time you can do it in the early morning (before the sun appears) and after it sets.
6. Strawberries need to be fed every 14 days. To do this, you can take ready-made nutrient solutions or prepare a mixture of 40 g of ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium salt per bucket of water.

Treatment of strawberries from diseases and pests

In warm and humid greenhouse conditions, not only strawberries develop well, but also pests and diseases affected by such unexpected conditions for winter. They will attack the winter greenhouse with triple strength, so it is better not to forget about prevention, so as not to lose such expensive berries.

All diseases typical for strawberries on the street are also found in its greenhouse relatives, and the treatment is no different.

• Diseases of strawberries: photo, description, treatment

  From this material, presented in pictures, you will find out what diseases of strawberries can deprive you of a harvest of delicious berries.

To avoid these kinds of problems, follow a few simple rules:

• plant only healthy seedlings;
• do not overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers and do not skip potassium-phosphorus fertilizers;
• remove diseased, dried or broken leaves and stems in a timely manner;
• donate diseased bushes if it was not possible to save them when the first signs of the disease appear;
• before the ovaries appear, treat the bushes with Fitosporin, Alirin or Glyocladin in order to prevent diseases.

Now that you know how difficult it is to grow strawberries in a greenhouse all year round, you will understand why these berries are so expensive in winter, and they are rarely found on the shelves.