How to grow more vegetables than you can imagine?

The best techniques to improve vegetable growth are those based on natural ingredients. And this is proven by the experience of American farmers.

Often, gardeners believe that if you limit yourself to one or two crops and pay maximum attention to them, you can achieve excellent results and collect a rich harvest... However, farmer John Jeavons is a proponent of the exact opposite method. In his possession there are almost 60 beds with different crops, while they are given a minimum of attention. No weeding, spraying pesticides or taking care of each bush. And all thanks to a unique method developed by a farmer from the United States.

Vegetable growing according to Jevons

The technology for obtaining a high yield is based on the active participation in the cultivation of aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. This method was titled by Jevons as biointensive and it is the centerpiece of How To Grow More Vegetables Than You Can imagine, on a lot less than you think. The book contains personal observations and experience of the author, as well as data obtained by Japanese and Russian scientists when growing cucumbers with the help of bacteria.

Most plants can be planted in neat containers.

The results Jevons cites in his book are incredible. These are, of course, high-yielding varieties grown in relatively warm climates.

Name of culture

Average yield (kg per 1 are)

Indicators of productivity of J. Jevons (kg from 1 are)

Potato

Barley

Watermelon

Zucchini

Late cabbage

A tomato

Beet

Cucumber

Garlic

Onion

However, according to the developer of the method, such indicators can be achieved even in a temperate climate.

How to get an overharvest?

To achieve high results, you do not need to radically change the system of work in the garden. It is enough just to follow the advice from Jevons' book.

  • Plant the plants at the times recommended for your area. It does not matter if the seeds are sown or seedlings are planted.
  • Arrange the plants in a checkerboard pattern - then the distance from stem to stem and from fossa to fossa will be the same. The holes are dug at the distance indicated in the table.

Name of culture

Distance between adjacent holes (cm)

Watermelon, pumpkin, tomato

Eggplant

Zucchini, cabbage, corn

Cucumber, bell pepper

Potato

Beans

Beans

Onions, garlic, beetroot

Radish

  • To combat powdery mildew, late blight, anthracnose and rot, use a special mullein solution. The bucket is 1/3 filled with mullein and 2/3 filled with plain water. The composition wanders for 5-7 days. After that, dairy waste is added to it - buttermilk, reverse and milk whey, rotted hay for 2/3 of a bucket and 1/3 of water. After that, humus is introduced into the beds.
  • Divide the area into beds and walking paths. The width of the beds should be 1.2 m, and the tracks should be no more than 0.5 m. Plant seedlings and sow seeds across the beds. After that, you cannot enter them.Pour a layer of humus 5-7 cm thick on the garden bed, then dig it onto the bayonet of a shovel and remove the dug soil. Then repeat the procedure, i.e. once again cover with humus, dig up and then cover with a layer extracted for the first time.

On experimental plots in Japan and near Moscow, the harvest of cucumbers was 1.7 times higher than the average. The consumption of microorganisms in this case was no more than 1 tbsp. for 10 liters of water

Unexpected effects of feeding

Aerobic bacteria live on the surface, no deeper than 5 cm from ground level. Due to their activity in the spring, maximum efficiency is achieved, since the plant does not waste energy on fighting late blight, powdery mildew and other diseases.

However, an even greater effect can be achieved with conventional liming. As it turned out, adding lime does not just change the acidity (pH level) of the soil, but changes its composition. For many weeds (like woodlice), a change in the habitual environment turns out to be disastrous and they disappear. The soil remains loose for several years, since air and water penetrate into it without restrictions to a depth of 1 m.

Plants need regular introduction of bacteria

Jevons discovered another interesting point. If a small amount of water is introduced under the root of the plant to a depth of 15-20 cm, it will provoke a rise in moisture from the depths of the earth. Thus, there is practically no need for surface watering - plants will receive a sufficient amount of liquid from the depths and from root application.

Practical application of the Jevons method

So, in order to increase the yield on your site, you need to follow several recommendations.

  • Lime the whole vegetable garden in the fall. Rains will moisten the soil abundantly, in winter the moisture will freeze and, due to expansion, will create additional cavities. In spring, the liquid melts and the soil remains loose.
  • In spring, aerobic microbes and worms are activated, which enhance the loose effect at a depth of 1 m.
  • Compost is harvested from spring to autumn from any organic waste. Additionally, it can be treated with a microbial solution that is sold in a store. For irrigation, 1 tbsp is added to a 10-liter bucket of water. l. microbial solution.

Composting should be done regularly

Microbes are killed by solutions of salts, acids and alkalis. Therefore, you will have to forget about fertilizing with fertilizers.

But it is difficult to grow vegetables without any "chemistry". The option remains foliar feeding - on the leaves. The recommended dose should be reduced by 3-4 times so as not to burn the leaves. For example, in the ratio of 0.5 liters of fertilizer to 10 liters of water.

Now let's consider the application of Jevons' technology with specific examples:

1. Garlic. Processed and prepared garlic is planted in September according to the lunar calendar. In the spring, the aisles are loosened with a flat cutter and foliar dressing is applied 3-4 times at intervals of 3 days. After the garlic has begun to grow, the soil is watered with a microbial solution. Each subsequent watering takes place as needed, but always with a solution with bacteria. About a week before the final ripening, the garlic is dug up, dried in the shade, the roots and tops are cut off.

2. Strawberry... The plantation is planted in the fall. Foliar dressing is carried out three times: after the snow melts, before and during flowering.

3. Potato... The planting material is processed and germinated. A handful of compost and 1 tbsp are added to the planting hole. wood ash. Large potatoes are cut into slices with at least 2-3 sprouts. Small tubers are cut, but not completely, so that more sprouts are formed. Both onion peel and a preparation for pre-planting treatment are introduced into the hole.

After planting potatoes, the entire surface is watered with a microbial solution. The Colorado potato beetle is harvested by hand and periodically watered with a composition with a microbial solution.

Regular watering with microbial composition will help plants

The secret of microbial composition

The basic working microbial composition is prepared as follows:

  • dissolve 1 tsp in 1 liter of serum. a spoonful of sour cream;
  • 1 tbsp is added to 1 liter of water (any, except from the tap).honey;
  • both compositions are mixed and water is added to make 10 liters of solution;
  • to improve the activity of microbes, you can add 10 g of baker's yeast;
  • stores glass, wood or plastic containers in places without access to light.

The composition is infused for about two weeks. The finished infusion is added as needed.

Jevons' experience is successfully applied in many regions

These are not all the secrets of Jevons' technology, but even they are enough to change the usual view of the technology of growing plants. The natural combination of "bacteria + plants" is able to give an unprecedented harvest.

2013-08-05

59 beds - the garden is not small. And does not require weeding or pest control. And harvests cannot be compared with conventional farming. And most importantly - nothing complicated! Why are there just one or two such gardens and gardeners in our country? Why does everything new with such difficulty make its way to our dachas? Maybe we just don't want to make our life easier? ..

how to grow more vegetables than you can imagine

John Jevons: Author of the biointensive method (Photo from the website

What is "Vegetable growing according to Jevons"

Let me offer you a new high-yielding technology for growing vegetables in summer cottages. It is based on the discoveries of scientists: aerobic and anaerobic microbes, biointensive method of American farmer John Jevons, described in the book "How to grow more vegetables than you can imagine, and on the site much less than you think," the work of Japanese and Russian scientists on growing cucumbers using microbes and, of course, personal observations and conclusions.

I will only cite the conclusions, omitting the whole process of how I came to them. I was surprised and amazed at the harvest figures obtained by scientists who reproduced biointensive technology by D. Jevons... Judge for yourself. The first number is the average, the second is the maximum.

Potatoes - 450-3540 kg per hundred square meters, watermelon - 450-1450 kg, barley - 45-110 kg, zucchini - 440-370 kg, late cabbage - 870-1740 kg, onions - 910-2450 kg, carrots - 680- 4900 kg, cucumber - 540-2170 kg, tomato - 880-1900 kg, beets - 500-1200 kg, fodder beets - 1810-4300 kg, garlic - 550-1100 kg.

Plants were planted at the same time as recommended by domestic agronomy, even with seeds, even with seedlings. As for the planting scheme, in order to better use the area, the plants were placed in a checkerboard pattern so that the distances from stem to stem or from center to center of the fossa were the same. For common vegetable crops, he and the following: eggplant - 45 cm, beans - 20 cm, watermelon, pumpkin, tomato - 46 cm, cabbage, zucchini, melon, sugar corn - 38 cm, peas - 7.5 cm, beans - 15 cm , carrots -8 cm, parsley - 13 cm, onion, garlic, beet-10 cm, potatoes - 23 cm, radish - 5 cm, cucumber, sweet pepper - 30 cm.

The Japanese in Buryatia and then in Barvikha near Moscow received a cucumber crop 1.7 times more than in the Russian control plot. Moreover, the consumption of microorganisms was from 1 tsp. up to 1 tbsp. 10 liters of water. My eyes lit up: how will other vegetables behave? What are these microbes? And I found the answer to this in the article "Microbes against Diseases". It turns out that this is a common mullein solution (1/3 of the mullein bucket, the rest is water). After everything has fermented, which is 5-7 days (it all depends on the ambient temperature), add whey, buttermilk, return - dairy waste, rotten hay (2/3 buckets + water). These microbes destroy powdery mildew, anthracnose, late blight, various rot, etc.

The entire site is divided into beds and paths. The width of the beds is up to 1.2 m, the length is arbitrary, the width of the paths is 0.3-0.5 m. We walk only along the paths, we do not step on the beds at any time of the year. Everything is planted across the beds. In D. Jevons' technology, soil preparation consists in double digging using humus or compost with a layer of 5-7 cm, i.e. they poured a layer of humus 5-7 cm on the garden bed, dug it up on a bayonet, took out the dug soil, again poured 5-7 cm of humus, dug up again what was dug up earlier, returned it back to the garden bed.

Mysterious phenomena or microbes in the soil

Let's look at soil preparation from today's perspective. Aerobic microbes are in the upper soil layer: 0-5 cm. A classic example: a wooden stake driven into the ground begins to rot in a few years from the surface of the earth to a depth of 5 cm. In the depths, the stake wood does not change over time. What role does humus or compost play in the second digging according to D. Jevons, agronomic science has no answer.

Every gardener knows the role that a handful of compost and humus play in the spring when planting. Ploughmen-worms and all the inhabitants of the aerobic layer of soil begin to work: they destroy rot, phytophthora, powdery mildew, anthracnose, etc. The plant does not spend its energy on this, it grows quickly.

During the liming stage of the soil, I encountered another phenomenon that is not described by science. We are accustomed to the fact that once we lime, it means that we are trying to change the pH of the soil. But it turns out that by liming the soil, we not only change the pH, we change the composition of the soil. Therefore, weeds grow poorly or disappear for a long time (for example, wood lice). The soil is loosening deep into the soil to a considerable depth. If we adhere to the values ​​given by science, then the depth of loosening during liming is 90-120 cm.

Has anyone read about this in the technical literature? I have never met. Loose soil, after liming, allows air and water to pass through without restrictions, the soil does not stick together, does not lump, remains loose for 4-5 years. Everyone is familiar with the phenomenon of dew, when, when a certain temperature is reached, moisture vapor from the air turns into a liquid state, settles on objects, grass, soil, which is saturated with moisture.

Ho scientists have discovered such a phenomenon: if a small amount of water is introduced under the root of a plant to a depth of 15-20 cm, this water will provoke moisture from the depths of the soil to rise up to the surface! As a result, our plant will receive the same amount of moisture as with regular watering. Which is no longer necessary.

Invisible helpers in the garden

In the fall, he calcified all the land, in the spring he broke it into beds and paths. I haven't been digging for nine years! Who loosens the soil and makes it suitable for planting vegetables? Autumn moistens the soil with rains, frosts freeze with ice. When it freezes, water expands, but it is in the soil. In the spring frosts go away, the soil is loose. No other machine will create such a fine, loose soil.

It is also made loose by underground inhabitants - aerobic microbes, worms, etc. When liming, the soil is loosened in depth by 90-120 cm up to 5-6 years. Why dig? With a rake, he straightened the edges of the beds, retained moisture. I took microbes as an assistant, and I do all the work with their help: seed treatment, planting seedlings, preparation of compost.

The working solution of microbes is unchanged - from 1 tsp. up to 1 tbsp. microbes per 10 liters of water. I have given above three microbial compositions (mullein, dairy waste, rotten hay). At the end of the article I will give you another recipe that I use. I plant in the same way as D. Jevons.

I harvest compost from all organic residues from spring to autumn. For the mass, I mow the grass that adjoins the end of the garden from the side of the rivulet. Previously, he sprayed the grass layer by layer with a purchased preparation from the waste of sugar production, then he began to use working microbial solutions, and then he stopped processing altogether. When the grass dries, it grows rotten (melts) - the seed is ready. By autumn I get compost in the depths of the piles, and next year almost all the grass is processed into compost. I use it when planting, I carry it to the beds.

Watering: I add from 1 tsp to a bucket of water (10 l). up to 1 tbsp. l. I water it with such a working solution, spray the bushes and plants to prevent the disease and treat the disease itself, if any. For 9 years, not a single plant got sick.

Microbes are stored and obtained in glass, wood, plastic containers, but not in metal, even if it is a stainless container. Microbes are afraid of ultraviolet radiation and die from it - they cannot be stored in the light.Microbes die from solutions of salts, acids, alkalis (this is for those gardeners who want to combine watering with a microbial solution with fertilizer). Microbes work in a humid environment.

It is difficult to grow vegetables without chemical fertilizers. If I apply fertilizers like this. as written in the instructions, and watering at the root or on a piece of land, I will destroy my assistants - aerobic microbes. I have only one way out - by leaves, i.e. foliar feeding. And in order not to scorch and not burn the leaves of plants, the dose of fertilizers must be reduced several times compared to root dressings. I took 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water as a basis. And here two more discoveries awaited me.

First, everything that blooms is tied and bears fruit. Not a single flower fell or disappeared! Second, plants develop more intensively, become taller and more productive.

I used all this when growing vegetables. Please note: fertilizers do not contaminate the soil. do not accumulate in plants. Plants develop harmoniously and vigorously. Taste, aroma, storage - everything is at the highest level. I did not notice anything negative. Here are some examples of how to grow vegetables.

Method of application of Jevons technology in vegetable growing

Garlic

I plant prepared and processed garlic in September according to the lunar calendar. In the spring I loosen the row spacing with a flat cutter, I feed it with foliar dressing 3-4 times with full complex fertilizer with an interval of 3 days.

Garlic grows intensively. The soil is wet, I water it with a working microbial solution - the microbes are working at full capacity. Then I water as needed, but still with germs. A week before the readiness date, or even earlier, I dig out the garlic, dry it in the shade, cut the tops and roots.

Potato

I process the planting material and germinate it. I plant 23 × 23 cm, planted 23 × 10-11 cm - the results are still excellent. I throw a handful of compost into the planting pit, 1 tbsp. l. wood ash. If the potatoes are large, I cut them into slices so that there are 2-3 sprouts. If it's small, I make an incision, but not completely, so that there are more sprouts. I throw onion peels into the hole, process them with a purchased preparation for pre-planting processing - everything that is at hand. All results were good.

After planting the potatoes, the entire surface was treated with a working microbial solution. With a height of 10-12 cm of row spacing, the hiller in the form of a plow simultaneously both hilled and made a groove for irrigation.

I don't do any more work on the ground before digging. I dig from the narrow end in the direction of the un-dug part. Digging the old fashioned way cuts a lot of potatoes. Colorado potato beetle is collected by hand with a broom in a container.

This year, 7-8 full 10-Liter buckets of potatoes were received from two beds 4.9 m long and 1.2 m high. They planted everything that was left after the winter and was not used for food. According to my calculations, the yield is from 980 to 1100 kg per one hundred square meters.

Shrubs

Under each bush in the fall I sprinkle 1 bucket of compost, a glass of wood ash. In the spring, I treated gooseberries against powdery mildew. All shrubs received foliar dressing before bud blooming, then, after blooming, again.

And here I again observed: everything that bloomed, was tied up and gave a harvest. Not a single flower was dropped on the soil!

Strawberry

It was fed with foliar dressing three times: immediately after the snow melted, before flowering, during flowering. Although a plantation was planted in the fall, the harvest is surprisingly plentiful, with foliar feeding, I do not observe gray rot on strawberries at all.

9 years without weeding and weed control

My helpers, microbes, have grown my crops. There is an opportunity to receive both the second and even the third!

I grow green manure. I settled on mustard as a culture. The garlic beds are freed first, then the onions, etc. And on those beds where tomatoes and peppers grow, I scatter mustard seeds between the plants.

Here I do two things: first, I add green manure, and second, I leave it until spring.

Then the siderates, or rather what remains of them, retain the snow in winter, and slow down the melting in the spring, the soil is saturated with healing melt water. In the spring, the leftovers are removed with a rake and either sent to the compost heap, or crushed and returned to the garden for processing by microbes and worms. All beds receive compost from a common heap. And I have 59 beds.

For nine years I have not poured the land in the beds. The question arises: what about weeding, weed control? There are no or practically no weeds in the beds. Weeds are only on the paths, and even then they are vagrant: wild purslane and Galinsoga imported from South America.

During the full moon and new moon, I remove weeds with a flat cutter, and very little time is spent on this work.

And here is the promised microbial composition with which I work - the basic one. 1 liter of whey, I dissolve 1 tsp in it. sour cream (seed).

In 1 liter of water (pond, snow, spring, etc., but not from the tap!) I dissolve 1 tbsp. l. honey (neither molasses, nor sugar, nor candied jam are suitable - products of chemical processing). This is microbial nutrition.

I combine both solutions and bring the volume to 10 liters. Dishes should be glass, wood, plastic. You can add 10 g of yeast - this will only expand the spectrum of microbial activity. I store it in places where there is no light. When opening a hermetically sealed container, where microbes are stored, a cotton is heard. This suggests that there are microbes and they are working.

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    Let me offer you a new high-yielding technology for growing vegetables in summer cottages. It is based on the discoveries of scientists: aerobic and anaerobic microbes, biointensive method of American farmer John Jevons, described in the book "How to grow more vegetables than you can imagine, and on the site much less than you think," the work of Japanese and Russian scientists on growing cucumbers using microbes and, of course, personal observations and conclusions. I will only cite the conclusions, omitting the whole process of how I came to them.

    I was surprised and amazed at the harvest figures obtained by scientists who reproduced the biointensive technology of D. Jevons.

    Judge for yourself. The first number is the average, the second is the maximum.

    Potatoes - 450-3540 kg per hundred square meters, watermelon - 450-1450 kg, barley - 45-110 kg, zucchini - 440-370 kg, late cabbage - 870-1740 kg, onion - 910-2450 kg. Seaweed - 680-4900 kg, cucumber -540-2170 kg, tomato - 880-1900 kg, beets - 500-1200 kg, fodder beets - 1810-4300 kg, garlic - 550-1100 kg.

    Plants were planted at the same time as recommended by domestic agronomy, even with seeds, even with seedlings.

    As for the planting scheme, in order to better use the area, the plants were placed in a checkerboard pattern so that the distances from stem to stem or from center to center of the fossa were the same. For common vegetable crops, they are as follows: eggplant - 45 cm, beans - 20 cm, watermelon, pumpkin, tomato - 46 cm, cabbage, zucchini, melon, sugar corn - 38 cm, peas - 7.5 cm, beans - 15 cm, carrots - 8 cm, parsley - 13 cm, onion, garlic, table beet -10 cm, potatoes - 23 cm, radish - 5 cm, cucumber, sweet pepper - 30 cm.

    The Japanese in Buryatia and then in Barvikha near Moscow received a cucumber crop 1.7 times more than in the Russian control plot. Moreover, the consumption of microorganisms was from 1 tsp. up to 1 tbsp. l. 10 liters of water.

    My eyes lit up: how will other vegetables behave?

    What are these microbes?

    And I found the answer to this in the article "Microbes against Diseases".

    It turns out that this is a common mullein solution (1/3 of the mullein bucket, the rest is water). After everything has fermented, which is 5-7 days (it all depends on the ambient temperature), add whey, buttermilk, return - dairy waste, rotten hay (2/3 buckets + water).

    These microbes destroy powdery mildew, anthracnose, late blight, various rot, etc.

    The entire site is divided into beds and paths. The width of the beds is up to 1.2 m, the length is arbitrary, the width of the paths is 0.3-0.5 m. We walk only along the paths, we do not step on the beds at any time of the year. Everything is planted across the beds.

    In D. Jevons' technology, soil preparation consists in double digging using humus or compost with a layer of 5-7 cm, i.e. they poured a layer of humus 5-7 cm on the garden bed, dug it up on a bayonet, took out the dug soil, again poured 5-7 cm of humus, dug up again what was dug up earlier, returned it back to the garden bed.

    See also: Growing seedlings according to Meathlider

    Microbes in the soil or mysterious phenomena

    Let's look at soil preparation from today's perspective.

    Aerobic microbes are found in the upper soil layer: 0-5 cm. A classic example: a wooden stake driven into the ground begins to rot in a few years from the surface of the earth to a depth of 5 cm. In the depths, the stake wood does not change over time.

    What role does humus or compost play in the second digging according to D. Jevons, agronomic science has no answer.

    Every gardener knows what role a handful of compost and humus plays in the spring when planting. Ploughmen-worms and all the inhabitants of the aerobic layer of soil begin to work: they destroy rot, phytophthora, powdery mildew, anthracnose, etc. The plant does not spend its energy on this, it grows quickly.

    During the liming stage of the soil, I encountered another phenomenon that is not described by science. We are accustomed to the fact that once we lime, it means that we are trying to change the pH of the soil. But it turns out that by liming the soil, we not only change the pH, we change the composition of the soil.

    Therefore, weeds grow poorly or disappear for a long time (for example, wood lice). The soil is loosening deep into the soil to a considerable depth. If we adhere to the values ​​given by science, then the depth of loosening during liming is 90-120 cm.

    Has anyone read about this in the technical literature? I have never met. Loose soil, after liming, allows air and water to pass through without restrictions, the soil does not stick together, does not lump, remains loose for 4-5 years. Everyone is familiar with the phenomenon of dew, when, when a certain temperature is reached, moisture vapor from the air turns into a liquid state, settles on objects, grass, soil, which is saturated with moisture.

    Invisible helpers in the garden

    In the fall, he calcified all the land, in the spring he broke it into beds and paths. I haven't been digging for nine years! Who loosens the soil and makes it suitable for planting vegetables? Autumn moistens the soil with rains, frosts freeze with ice. When it freezes, water expands, but it is in the soil. In the spring frosts go away, the soil is loose. No other machine will create such a fine, loose soil.

    It is also made loose by underground inhabitants - aerobic microbes, worms, etc. When liming, the soil is loosened in depth by 90-120 cm up to 5-6 years. Why dig? With a rake, he straightened the edges of the beds, retained moisture. I took microbes as assistants, and I do all the work with their help: seed treatment, planting seedlings, preparation of compost. The working solution of microbes is unchanged - from 1 tsp. up to 1 tbsp. l. microbes per 10 liters of water.

    I have given above three microbial compositions (mullein, dairy waste, rotten hay). At the end of the article I will give you another recipe that I use.

    I plant in the same way as D. Jevons.

    I harvest compost from all organic residues from spring to autumn. For the mass, I mow the grass that adjoins the end of the garden from the side of the rivulet.Previously, he sprayed the grass layer by layer with a purchased preparation from the waste of sugar production, then he began to use working microbial solutions, and then he stopped processing altogether.

    When the grass dries, it grows rotten (melts) - the seed is ready. By autumn I get compost deep in the heap, and next year almost all the grass is processed into compost. I use it when planting, I carry it to the beds.

    Watering: I add from 1 tsp to a bucket of water (10 l). up to 1 tbsp. l. I water it with such a working solution, spray the bushes and plants to prevent the disease and treat the disease itself, if any. For 9 years, not a single plant got sick.

    Microbes are stored and obtained in glass, wooden, plastic containers, but not in metal, even if it is a stainless container. Microbes are afraid of ultraviolet radiation and die from it - they cannot be stored in the light. Microbes die from solutions of salts, acids, alkalis (this is for those gardeners who want

    combine watering with a microbial solution with fertilizer). Microbes work in a humid environment.

    It is difficult to grow vegetables without chemical fertilizers. If I apply fertilizers like this. as written in the instructions, and watering at the root or on a piece of land, I will destroy my assistants - aerobic microbes. I have only one way out - by leaves, i.e. foliar feeding. And in order not to scorch and not burn the leaves of plants, the dose of fertilizers must be reduced several times compared to root dressings. I took 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water as a basis. And here two more discoveries awaited me.

    First, everything that blooms is tied and bears fruit. Not a single flower fell or disappeared! Second, plants develop more intensively, become taller and more productive.

    I used all this when growing vegetables. Please note: fertilizers do not contaminate the soil. do not accumulate in plants. Plants develop harmoniously and vigorously. Taste, aroma, storage - everything is at the highest level. I did not notice anything negative. Here are some examples of how to grow vegetables.

    See also: Meatlider in Russian - application of the amended method for Russia

    Method of application of Jevons technology in vegetable growing

    Garlic

    I plant prepared and processed garlic in September according to the lunar calendar. In the spring I loosen the row spacing with a flat cutter, I feed it with foliar dressing 3-4 times with full complex fertilizer with an interval of 3 days.

    Garlic grows intensively. The soil is wet, I water it with a working microbial solution - the microbes are working at full capacity. Then I water as needed, but still with germs. A week before the readiness date, or even earlier, I dig out the garlic, dry it in the shade, cut the tops and roots.

    Potato

    I process the planting material and germinate. I plant 23 × 23 cm, planted 23 × 10-11 cm - the results are still excellent. I throw a handful of compost into the planting pit, 1 tbsp. l. wood ash. If the potatoes are large, I cut them into slices so that there are 2-3 sprouts. If it's small, I make an incision, but not completely, so that there are more sprouts. I throw onion peels into the hole, process them with a purchased preparation for pre-planting processing - everything that is at hand. All results were good.

    After planting the potatoes, the entire surface was treated with a working microbial solution. With a height of 10-12 cm of row spacing, the hiller in the form of a plow simultaneously both hilled and made a groove for irrigation.

    I don't do any more work on the ground before digging. I dig from the narrow end in the direction of the un-dug part. Digging the old fashioned way, a lot of potatoes are cut. Colorado potato beetle is collected by hand with a broom in a container.

    This year, 7-8 full 10-Liter buckets of potatoes were received from two beds 4.9 m long and 1.2 m high. They planted everything that was left after the winter and was not used for food. According to my calculations, the yield is from 980 to 1100 kg per one hundred square meters.

    Shrubs

    Under each bush in the fall I sprinkle 1 bucket of compost, a glass of wood ash. In the spring, I treated gooseberries against powdery mildew.All shrubs received foliar dressing before bud blooming, then, after blooming, again.

    And here I again observed: everything that bloomed, was tied and yielded. Not a single flower was dropped on the soil!

    Strawberry

    It was fed with foliar dressing three times: immediately after the snow melted, before flowering, during flowering. Although a plantation was planted in the fall, the harvest is surprisingly plentiful, with foliar feeding, I do not observe gray rot on strawberries at all.

    9 years without weeding and weed control

    My helpers, microbes, have grown my crops. There is an opportunity to receive both the second and even the third!

    I grow green manure. I settled on mustard as a culture. The garlic beds are freed first, then the onions, etc. And on those beds where tomatoes and peppers grow, I scatter mustard seeds between the plants.

    Reference by topic: Green manure plants on science

    Here I do two things: first, I add green manure, and second, I leave it until spring.

    Then the siderates, or rather what remains of them, retain the snow in winter, and slow down the melting in the spring, the soil is saturated with healing melt water. In the spring, the leftovers are removed with a rake and either sent to the compost heap, or crushed and returned to the garden for processing by microbes and worms. All beds receive compost from a common heap. And I have 59 beds.

    For nine years I have not poured the land in the beds. The question arises: what about weeding, weed control? There are no or practically no weeds in the beds. Weeds are only on the paths, and even then they are vagrant: wild purslane and Galinsoga imported from South America.

    During the full moon and new moon, I remove weeds with a flat cutter, and very little time is spent on this work.

    And here is the promised microbial composition with which I work - the basic one. 1 liter of whey, I dissolve 1 tsp in it. sour cream (seed).

    In 1 liter of water (pond, snow, spring, etc., but not from the tap!) I dissolve 1 tbsp. l. honey (neither molasses, nor sugar, nor candied jam are suitable - products of chemical processing). This is microbial nutrition.

    I combine both solutions and bring the volume to 10 liters. Dishes should be glass, wood, plastic. You can add 10 g of yeast - this will only expand the spectrum of microbial activity. I store it in places where there is no light. When opening a hermetically sealed container, where microbes are stored, a cotton is heard. This suggests that there are microbes and they are working.

    Author A.P. Bessarab

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    Growing vegetables according to John Jevons - an unprecedented harvest

    The best techniques to improve the growth of vegetables are those based on natural ingredients. And this is proved by the experience of American farmers.

    Often, gardeners believe that if you limit yourself to one or two crops and pay maximum attention to them, you can achieve excellent results and collect a richharvest... However, farmer John Jeavons is a proponent of the exact opposite method. In his possession there are almost 60 beds with different crops, while they are given a minimum of attention. Noweeding,sprayingpesticides or taking care of each bush. And all thanks to a unique method developed by a farmer from the United States.

    Vegetable growing according to Jevons

    The technology for obtaining a high yield is based on active participation in the cultivation processaerobicandanaerobic bacteria... This method was titled by Jevons asbiointensiveand it is the centerpiece of How To Grow More Vegetables Than You Can imagine, on a lot less than you think. The book contains personal observations and experience of the author, as well as data obtained by Japanese and Russian scientists in the cultivation of cucumbers with the help of bacteria.

    Most plants can be planted in neat containers.

    The results that Jevons cites in his book are incredible. These are, of course, high-yielding varieties planted in relatively warm climates.

    Name of culture Average yield (kg per 1 are) Indicators of productivity of J. Jevons (kg from 1 are)
    Potato 450 3500
    Barley 45 110
    Watermelon 450 1450
    Zucchini 370 440
    Late cabbage 870 1740
    A tomato 880 1900
    Beet 500 1200
    Cucumber 540 2170
    Garlic 550 1100
    Onion 910 2450

    However, according to the developer of the methodology, such indicators can be achieved even in a temperate climate.

    How to get an overharvest?

    To achieve high results, you do not need to radically change the system of work in the garden. It is enough just to follow the advice from Jevons' book.

    Here are the main ones:

    • you need to plant plants at the same time as recommended for your area. It does not matter if seeds or seedlings will be planted;
    • you need to arrange the plants in a checkerboard pattern, then the distance from stem to stem and from fossa to fossa will be the same. The holes are dug at the distance indicated in the table.
    Name of culture Distance between adjacent holes (cm)
    Watermelon, pumpkin, tomato 46
    Eggplant 45
    Zucchini, cabbage, corn 38
    Cucumber, bell pepper 30
    Potato 23
    Beans 20
    Beans 15
    Onions, garlic, table beet 10
    Radish 5
    • on experimental plots in Japan and near Moscow, the harvest of cucumbers was 1.7 times higher than the average. The consumption of microorganisms in this case was no more than 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water.
    • to combat powdery mildew, late blight, anthracnose and rot, a special mullein solution is used. The bucket is 1/3 filled with mullein and 2/3 filled with plain water.
    • The composition wanders for 5-7 days. After that, dairy waste is added to it - buttermilk, reverse and milk whey, rotten hay for 2/3 of a bucket and 1/3 of water. After that, humus is applied to the beds.
    • Divide the area into beds and walking paths. The width of the beds is 1.2 m, and the paths are no more than 0.5 m. Planting is carried out across the beds and you cannot enter them anymore.
    • Pour a layer of humus 5-7 cm thick on the garden bed, then dig it up "on a bayonet" and remove the dug soil. Then repeat the procedure, that is, fill it with humus again, dig it up and then cover it with the layer extracted the first time.

    You need to arrange the landings in a checkerboard pattern

    Unexpected effects of feeding

    Aerobic bacteria live on the surface, no deeper than 5 cm from ground level. Due to their activity in the spring, maximum efficiency is achieved, since the plant does not spend energy fighting againstlate blightpowdery mildewand other diseases.

    However, an even greater effect can be achieved with conventional liming. As it turns out, adding lime does more than just changeacidity(pH level) soil, it changes its composition.

    For many weeds (like woodlice), a change in the habitual environment turns out to be disastrous and they disappear. The soil remains loose for several years, since air and water penetrate into it without restrictions to a depth of 1 m.

    Plants need regular introduction of bacteria

    Jevons discovered another interesting point. If a small amount of water is introduced under the root of the plant to a depth of 15-20 cm, it will provoke a rise in moisture from the depths of the earth. Thus, the need for surface irrigation practically disappears - a sufficient amount of liquid will be obtained from the depths of the plants and from root application.

    Practical application of the Jevons method

    So, in order to increase the yield on your site, you need to follow several recommendations.

    • Lime the whole garden in the fall.Rains will moisten the soil abundantly, in winter the moisture will freeze and, due to expansion, will create additional cavities.
    •  
    • In the spring, the liquid melts and the soil remains loose.
    • In spring, aerobic microbes and worms are activated, which enhance the loose effect at depths of up to 1 m.
    • Compost is harvested from spring to autumn from any organic waste. Additionally, it can be treated with a microbial solution that is sold in a store. For irrigation, 1 tbsp is added to a 10-liter bucket of water. l. microbial solution.

    Composting should be done regularly

    Microbes are killed by solutions of salts, acids and alkalis. Therefore, you will have to forget about fertilizing with fertilizers.

    But it is difficult to grow vegetables without any "chemistry". The option remainsfoliar feeding- on the leaves. The recommended dose should be reduced by 3-4 times so as not to burn the leaves. For example, in the ratio of 0.5 liters of fertilizer to 10 liters of water.

    Now we will consider the application of Jevons' technology with specific examples:

    1. Garlic. Processed and prepared garlic is planted in September according to the lunar calendar. In the spring, the aisles are loosened with a flat cutter and foliar top dressing is applied 3-4 times at intervals of 3 days. After the garlic has begun to grow, the soil is watered with a microbial solution. Each subsequent watering takes place as needed, but always with a solution with bacteria. About a week before the final ripening, the garlic is dug up, dried in the shade, the roots and tops are cut off.

    2. Strawberries. The plantation is planted in the fall. Foliar fertilizers were applied three times: after the final snow melt, before and during flowering.

    3. Potatoes. The planting material is processed and germinated. A handful of compost and 1 tbsp. Are added to the planting hole. l. wood ash. Large potatoes are cut into slices to get 2-3 sprouts. An incision is made on a small one, but not completely, so that more sprouts form. Both onion peel and a preparation for pre-planting treatment are introduced into the hole.

    After planting the potatoes, the entire surface

    the spine is watered with a microbial solution. The Colorado potato beetle is harvested by hand and periodically watered with a composition with a microbial solution.

    Regular watering with microbial composition will help plants

    The secret of microbial composition

    The basic working microbial composition is prepared as follows:

    • in 1 liter of serum dissolve 1 tsp. a spoonful of sour cream;
    • in 1 liter of water (any, except from the tap) add 1 tbsp. l. honey;
    • both compositions are mixed and water is added to make 10 liters of solution;
    • to improve the activity of microbes, you can add 10 g of yeast;
    • glass, wood or plastic containers are stored in places without light.

    The composition is infused for about two weeks. The finished solution is added as needed.

    Jevons' experience is successfully applied in many regions

    ***

    Jevons' experience is successfully applied in many regions

    ***

    These are not all the secrets of Jevons' technology, but even they are enough to change the usual view of the methods of growing plants. The natural combination of "bacteria + plants" is able to give an unprecedented harvest.

    Technology of growing vegetables according to John Jevons

    59 beds - the garden is not small. And does not require weeding or pest control. And harvests cannot be compared with conventional farming. And most importantly - nothing complicated! Why are there just one or two such vegetable gardens and gardeners in our country? Why does everything new with such difficulty make its way to our dachas? Maybe we just don't want to make our life easier? .. What is "Vegetable growing according to Jevons"

    Let me offer you a new high-yielding technology for growing vegetables in summer cottages. It is based on the discoveries of scientists: aerobic and anaerobic microbes, the biointensive method of American farmer John Jevons, described in the book "How to grow more vegetables than you can imagine, and on the site much less than you think", the work of Japanese and Russian scientists on growing cucumbers using microbes and, of course, personal observations and conclusions.

    I will only cite the conclusions, omitting the whole process of how I came to them.I was surprised and amazed at the harvest figures obtained by scientists who reproduced the biointensive technology of D. Jevons. Plants were planted at the same time as recommended by domestic agronomy, even with seeds, even with seedlings. As for the planting scheme, in order to better use the area, the plants were placed in a checkerboard pattern so that the distances from stem to stem or from center to center of the fossa were the same.

    The Japanese in Buryatia and then in Barvikha near Moscow received a cucumber crop 1.7 times more than in the Russian control plot.

    Moreover, the consumption of microorganisms was from 1 tsp. up to 1 tbsp. 10 liters of water. My eyes lit up: how will other vegetables behave?

    What are these microbes? And I found the answer to this in the article "Microbes against Diseases".

    It turns out that this is a common mullein solution (1/3 of the mullein bucket, the rest is water). After everything has fermented, which is 5-7 days (it all depends on the ambient temperature), add whey, buttermilk, return - dairy waste, rotten hay (2/3 buckets + water

    These microbes destroy powdery mildew, anthracnose, late blight, various rot, etc.

    The entire site is divided into beds and paths. The width of the beds is up to 1.2 m, the length is arbitrary, the width of the paths is 0.3-0.5 m. We walk only along the paths, we do not step on the beds at any time of the year.

    Everything is planted across the beds. In D. Jevons' technology, soil preparation consists in double digging using humus or compost with a layer of 5-7 cm, i.e. they poured a layer of humus 5-7 cm on the garden bed, dug it up on a bayonet, took out the dug soil, again poured 5-7 cm of humus, dug up again what was dug up earlier, returned it back to the garden bed.

    Mysterious phenomena or microbes in the soil

    Let's look at soil preparation from today's perspective. Aerobic microbes are found in the upper soil layer: 0-5 cm. A classic example: a wooden stake driven into the ground begins to rot in a few years from the surface of the earth to a depth of 5 cm. In the depths, the stake wood does not change over time. What role does humus or compost play in the second digging according to D. Jevons, agronomic science has no answer.

    Every gardener knows the role that a handful of compost and humus play in the spring when planting. Ploughmen-worms and all the inhabitants of the aerobic layer of soil begin to work: they destroy rot, phytophthora, powdery mildew, anthracnose, etc. The plant does not spend its energy on this, it grows quickly.

    During the liming stage of the soil, I encountered another phenomenon that is not described by science. We are accustomed to the fact that once we lime, it means that we are trying to change the pH of the soil. But it turns out that by liming the soil, we not only change the pH, we change the composition of the soil. Therefore, weeds grow poorly or disappear for a long time (for example, wood lice).

    The soil is loosening deep into the soil to a considerable depth. If we adhere to the values ​​given by science, then the depth of loosening during liming is 90-120 cm. Has anyone read about this in the technical literature? I have never met. Loose soil, after liming, allows air and water to pass through without restrictions, the soil does not stick together, does not lump, remains loose for 4-5 years.

    Everyone is familiar with the phenomenon of dew, when, when a certain temperature is reached, moisture vapor from the air turns into a liquid state, settles on objects, grass, soil, which is saturated with moisture. Ho scientists have discovered such a phenomenon: if a small amount of water is introduced under the root of a plant to a depth of 15-20 cm, this water will provoke moisture from the depths of the soil to rise up to the surface! As a result, our plant will receive the same amount of moisture as with regular watering. Which is no longer necessary.

    Invisible helpers in the garden

    In the fall, he calcified all the land, in the spring he broke it into beds and paths. I haven't been digging for nine years! Who loosens the soil and makes it suitable for planting vegetables? Autumn moistens the soil with rains, frosts freeze with ice. When it freezes, water expands, but it is in the soil.

    In the spring frosts go away, the soil is loose. No other machine will create such a fine, loose soil. It is also made loose by underground inhabitants - aerobic microbes, worms, etc.

    When liming, the soil is loosened in depth by 90-120 cm up to 5-6 years. Why dig? With a rake, he straightened the edges of the beds, retained moisture. I took microbes as an assistant, and I do all the work with their help: seed treatment, planting seedlings, preparation of compost.

    The working solution of microbes is unchanged - from 1 tsp. up to 1 tbsp. microbes per 10 liters of water. I have given above three microbial compositions (mullein, dairy waste, rotten hay). At the end of the article I will give you another recipe that I use. I plant the same as D. Jevons.

    I harvest compost from all organic residues from spring to autumn. For the mass, I mow the grass that adjoins the end of the garden from the side of the rivulet. Previously, he sprayed the grass layer by layer with a purchased preparation from the waste of sugar production, then he began to use working microbial solutions, and then he stopped processing altogether. When the grass dries, it grows rotten (melts) - the seed is ready. By the fall, I get compost in the depths of the piles, and the next year almost all the grass is processed into compost. I use it when planting, I carry it to the beds.

    Watering: I add from 1 tsp to a bucket of water (10 l). up to 1 tbsp. l. I water it with such a working solution, spray the bushes and plants to prevent the disease and treat the disease itself, if any. For 9 years, not a single plant got sick.

    Microbes are stored and obtained in glass, wood, plastic containers, but not in metal, even if it is a stainless container.

    Microbes are afraid of ultraviolet radiation and die from it - they cannot be stored in the light. Microbes die from solutions of salts, acids, alkalis (this is for those gardeners who want to combine watering with a microbial solution with fertilizer). Microbes work in a humid environment.

    It is difficult to grow vegetables without chemical fertilizers. If I apply fertilizers like this. as written in the instructions, and watering at the root or on a piece of land, I will destroy my assistants - aerobic microbes. I have only one way out - by leaves, i.e. foliar feeding. And in order not to scorch and not burn the leaves of plants, the dose of fertilizers must be reduced several times compared to root dressings. I took 0.5 liters per 10 liters of water as a basis. And here two more discoveries awaited me.

    First, everything that blooms is tied and bears fruit. Not a single flower fell or disappeared!

    Second, plants develop more intensively, become taller and more productive. I used all this when growing vegetables. Please note: fertilizers do not contaminate the soil. do not accumulate in plants. Plants develop harmoniously and vigorously. Taste, aroma, storage - everything is at the highest level. I did not notice anything negative. Here are some examples of how to grow vegetables.

    Method of application of Jevons technology in vegetable growing

    Garlic

    I plant prepared and processed garlic in September according to the lunar calendar. In the spring I loosen the row spacing with a flat cutter, I feed it with foliar dressing 3-4 times with full complex fertilizer with an interval of 3 days. Garlic grows intensively. The soil is wet, I water it with a working microbial solution - the microbes are working at full capacity. Then I water as needed, but still with germs. A week before the readiness date, or even earlier, I dig out the garlic, dry it in the shade, cut the tops and roots.

    Potato

    I process the planting material and germinate it. I plant 23 × 23 cm, planted 23 × 10-11 cm - the results are still excellent. I throw a handful of compost into the planting pit, 1 tbsp. l. wood ash. If the potatoes are large, I cut them into slices so that there are 2-3 sprouts. If it's small, I make an incision, but not completely, so that there are more sprouts. I throw onion peels into the hole, process them with a purchased preparation for pre-planting processing - everything that is at hand. All results were good.

    After planting the potatoes, the entire surface was treated with a working microbial solution.With a height of 10-12 cm of row spacing, the hiller in the form of a plow simultaneously both hilled and made a groove for irrigation. I don't do any more work on the ground before digging.

    I dig from the narrow end in the direction of the un-dug part. Digging the old fashioned way cuts a lot of potatoes. Colorado potato beetle is collected by hand with a broom in a container. This year, 7-8 full 10-Liter buckets of potatoes were received from two beds 4.9 m long and 1.2 m high. They planted everything that was left after the winter and was not used for food. According to my calculations, the yield is from 980 to 1100 kg per one hundred square meters.

    Shrubs

    Under each bush in the fall I sprinkle 1 bucket of compost, a glass of wood ash. In the spring, I treated gooseberries against powdery mildew. All shrubs received foliar dressing before bud blooming, then, after blooming, again. And here I again observed: everything that bloomed, was tied up and gave a harvest. Not a single flower was dropped on the soil!

    Strawberry

    It was fed with foliar dressing three times: immediately after the snow melted, before flowering, during flowering. Although a plantation was planted in the fall, the harvest is surprisingly plentiful, with foliar feeding, I do not observe gray rot on strawberries at all.

    9 years without weeding and weed control

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