How to grow variegated begonias at home?

When variegated begonias get home from the store, they often disappoint their owners. Why is this happening?

There are fewer and fewer variegated beauties. And the point is not at all that they have become unfashionable or take up a lot of space, but simply in the inability to maintain these magnificent plants. Tempted in a flower shop or at an exhibition by the beautiful large leaves of begonia grown in a greenhouse, most amateurs then observed a very sad picture of the rapid loss of decorativeness, and then the death of the plant.

Lighting

The most suitable lighting for full-fledged coloring - bright diffused, both natural and artificial, will not hurt even a little morning sun. For most of the day, decorative leaf begonias can be in partial shade. In winter, they can be safely kept on the southern windows, but they also endure the lack of light steadily, except that the color becomes less bright.

Watering

Variegated begonias do not tolerate waterlogging of the substrate. In addition, they suffer from cold drafts and rough handling. Their stems and leaves are very brittle and are often damaged by washing, transporting and replanting. As a rule, the leaves are not sprayed so that spots that spoil their beauty do not appear on them.

The substrate should be slightly damp throughout its depth. The roots of these plants are thin, dry easily with too little watering and are very susceptible to rotting when moisture stagnates. Therefore, you need to water only after the top layer has dried by 2-3 cm and very moderately, so that the bottom of the pot is not too damp. Watering frequency depends on air temperature and ventilation intensity.

Temperature

Begonias grow well in moderate temperatures and do not like heat. Cool conditions in winter (13-18 ° C) are required by subtropical species: begonias Diadem, yellow begonias, begonias of catayan (B. cathayana).

For tropical species (imperial begonia, spotted begonia, yellow begonia, royal begonia, ringed begonia, metal begonia) a winter temperature of 18-20 ° C is desirable. Numerous hybrid plants are quite tolerant of temperature conditions and feel great in the range of 16-22 ° C, and with very careful watering, they can be kept on insulated loggias with a lower temperature.

It is especially important that the temperature of the earthy coma is not even slightly lower than the air temperature. If the pot is on a cold windowsill, and the leaves are heated by hot air from a battery, not only their tips will inevitably dry out, but most of the leaf blade, because the cooled roots cannot provide the shoots with the necessary amount of water for evaporation. In rooms with very dry air, begonia leaves do not live long, dry, become stained. Unfortunately, large-leaved varieties suffer the most.

The most beautiful of the hybrid begonias are considered to be the varieties that form the Rex group. For the most part, these are plants with large, whole-edged or serrated multicolored leaves, both smooth and tuberous, but there are also small-leaved hybrids. Some of the most popular for growing in rooms are miniature species with lodging shoots and numerous small velvety leaves.

Place for begonias

Plants are placed in groups, in the center of which are the most fastidious in this regard.It would be great if such a composition would stand on a common pallet, surrounded by frequently sprayed pads of moss, stones and gravel.

Several copies can be planted in a pot at once. Then the bush will be voluminous and beautiful from all sides, but at the same time it is necessary to avoid excessive density of the shoots and remove the leaves if signs of the disease are found on them. Most often, begonias suffer from pathogenic bacteria and fungi, therefore, for prevention, Fitosporin can be added to the water for irrigation 1-2 times a month. 2 years after planting, rhizome begonias can grow strongly, bare and deform the stems. In this case, you will have to update the plant by cutting and rooting the tops.

Disease prevention

To prevent begonias from getting sick due to waterlogging of the soil, experienced flower growers follow a few simple rules. First, they use low, but wide pots, in which the substrate dries out faster and more evenly. Secondly, components are added to the finished peat substrate for herbaceous plants that improve its structure and reduce its moisture content. These are finely ground pine bark, vermiculite, coconut fiber, leaf and coniferous humus. At the bottom of the pot, it is imperative to put drainage from pieces of foam plastic with the addition of charcoal and protect it from clogging with earth with a layer of moss or a circle from a paper napkin.

Reproduction

Almost all begonias are easily propagated by apical and leafy cuttings in water, sphagnum and vermiculite. You can propagate them even with parts of the leaves, but none of the amateurs does this, because it is faster and easier to get a new plant from a large apical cutting.

Variegated begonias are rare in our apartments. Not because they are uninteresting or take up a lot of space - they simply cannot be kept at home. And the point here is not in any special requirements, but in attention and certain knowledge.

Different types of begonias need different conditions, but there are some things in common. Begonias suffer from drafts, sudden changes in temperature, and careless handling. Their stems and leaves are very fragile and are often damaged by washing, transporting and replanting.

The most suitable lighting, in which the color of the leaves looks most advantageous, is bright diffused (both natural and artificial). A little morning sun won't hurt them either. In winter, begonias can be kept on the southern windows. They tolerate the lack of light steadily, but the color of the leaves fades somewhat.

Begonias do not like heat and grow well in moderate temperatures. Particular attention should be paid to the conditions of winter keeping. Subtropical species - Begonia diadem, yellow, Catayan (B. cathayana) - 13-18 ° C is enough, tropical, and this begonias imperial, spotted, royal, ringed, metal, it is desirable to provide 18–20 ° С.

Hybrids feel great in the range of 16-22 ° С, and with very careful watering, they can be kept on insulated loggias with a lower temperature. It is important that the temperature of the earthy coma is not much lower than the air temperature: if the pot is on a cold windowsill, and the leaves heats up hot air from the battery, then the chilled roots cannot provide the required amount of water for evaporation, and not only the tips of the leaves inevitably dry out, but also most of the leaf blade.

In rooms with very dry air, begonia leaves become stained and dry. Large-leaved varieties suffer the most. To achieve the required air humidity, plants are placed in groups, concentrating the most fastidious in the center. It is good if such a composition will stand on a common pallet, surrounded by often sprayed pads of moss, stones and gravel. The leaves of the begonias themselves are not wetted - ugly spots will appear on them.

The substrate along the entire depth should be slightly moist, therefore begonias are watered very sparingly, after the top layer dries up by 2-3 cm.The roots of plants are thin, dry easily with rare watering, with stagnant moisture they are prone to rotting. To avoid trouble, it is enough to follow a few simple rules: first, use low but wide pots; secondly, add vermiculite (or finely chopped pine bark, coconut fiber, leaf and coniferous humus) to the finished peat substrate. This will improve the texture and reduce the water holding capacity of the potting mix. And finally, a drainage layer of pieces of polystyrene with the addition of charcoal should be placed on the bottom of the pot. So that it does not get clogged with earth, it is covered with a layer of moss.

Indoors, two years after planting, begonia begins to lose its beauty. The plant can be easily renewed by cutting and rooting the tops in water, sphagnum or vermiculite. For propagation, you can use leafy cuttings and parts of leaves.

Begonia (lat. Begonia) is an annual or perennial plant belonging to the flowering department, dicotyledonous class, pumpkin-flowering order, begonia family, begonia genus.

Begonia got its name in honor of Michel Begon, Governor of Haiti, organizer and sponsor of scientific research on the flora of the Antilles in 1687.

back to content ↑ Begonia: description of the flower, characteristics and photos. What does begonia look like?

Begonia grows in various ways: in the form of grasses creeping on the ground, tall erect bushes or dwarf shrubs. A well-developed root system of begonia is branched, fibrous or tuberous. Begonia, which has a root in the form of tubers, can be grown not only indoors, but also in the garden. Other types of begonias are grown only at home.

The begonia leaf has an asymmetrical shape. It can be solid or split into several lobules with wavy or jagged edges. In most plants, the lower part of the leaf is colored reddish, brown or dark purple, and the upper part is either solid green or a variety of colors with geometric patterns, strokes and blotches. In some species of begonias, the surface of the stems and leaves is covered with small villi.

Begonia inflorescences consist of several small, medium or large flowers. The color of begonias is solid red, pink, yellow, orange, white, or with edging of various shades along the edges of the petals. The plant has a complex inflorescence - it is made up of male and female flowers, over which, after pollination, a fruit is formed that has the shape of a triangular box with small seeds inside.

Begonia blooms in summer and autumn, and indoor begonia can bloom until December.

back to content ↑ Begonia: varieties, species, photos and names.

The begonia genus includes about 1600 species, but only 125 of them and all kinds of hybrids are used for decorative purposes. Until now, there is no general plant classification system, and in foreign and Russian-language sources, completely different variants of classifications are given.

Professor V.V. Vorontsov, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, identified the following conventional types of begonias:

• decorative deciduous begonias;
• shrub begonias;
• tuberous begonias;
• flowering begonias.

back to content ↑ Deciduous begonias (decorative deciduous).

Deciduous begonia does not have a common aboveground stem, and long pubescent leaves immediately grow from a branched root. This type of begonias amazes with the beauty of its leaves, which have a variety of shapes and colors. The color of the leaves can be green, red, silver, yellow, white or brown. Leaves can be either monochromatic or multi-colored, with various spots and edges.

The most famous types and varieties of decorative deciduous begonias:

• Royal begonia (begonia rex) (lat.begonia rex) - a hybrid species with rounded or oval leaves 30 cm long with jagged edges. Their coloration ranges from brownish pink to purple and violet.Begonia leaves are decorated with a white, silver or green border.

• Begonia Metallica (metal) (lat.Begonia metallica) with small (10-15 cm long) olive-green pubescent ovoid leaves, the edges of which are indented with denticles. The upper part of the leaves of this species of begonias seems to be covered with metallic pollen.

• Tiger begonia (Bauer's begonia) (lat. Begonia tiger pawsBegonia bowerae) with medium-sized green serrated leaves of a heart-shaped shape and an animal pattern of brown or dark gray.

• Begonia Mason (lat.Begonia masoniana) Is a deciduous begonia that grows in New Guinea and is of particular value due to its unusual leaf pattern, reminiscent of brown Maltese crosses. The length of the leaves can reach 20 cm, the leaves of old begonias acquire a characteristic silvery shade. Plant height usually does not exceed 20-35 cm. Flowers are medium-sized, light beige.

• Begonia Cleopatra (lat.Begonia cleopatra) - a species characterized by very decorative leaves, similar to maple leaves. The outer side of the leaves is painted in an intense green or olive, the bottom of the leaves can be burgundy or bright red. A distinctive feature of this type of begonias are elongated fleshy leaf cuttings, densely covered with white or gray hairs. The height of the bush usually does not exceed 30 cm, in rare cases it reaches 50 cm. Cleopatra begonia blooms in January and February, then the plant throws out thin peduncles covered with groups of white-pink flowers.

• Collar begonia, she cuff begonia (lat. Begonia manicata) - a plant native to Mexico with a creeping stem and large fleecy light green leaves up to 30 cm in diameter, growing on long cuttings. Begonia got its name from a thick cuff of red villi that surrounds the stem just below the leaf. In winter, adult plants form about 5 peduncles up to 60 cm long, decorated with an elegant brush of bright pink flowers.

• Red-leaved begonia (lat.Begonia erythrophylla) - South American species, which is distinguished by short, fleshy stems and glossy rounded leaves, green above and intense red below. The maximum height of the begonia bush is 35-40 cm. In the middle of summer it blooms with medium-sized pinkish flowers.

back to contents ↑ Bush begonia.

Bush begonia has densely growing geniculate, branched stems that look like bamboo shoots. The plant is a bush with numerous side shoots. The leaves have a variety of shapes and colors. The flowers are beautiful and graceful. The root is thick and fleshy, not divided into parts. Bush begonia blooms all year round. Begonia varieties are both annual and perennial. The height of the bushes is from 10 cm to 2 meters.

Among the representatives of this variety of begonias, the following are very popular:

• Coral begonia (lat.Begonia corallina) with erect, bare stems, reaching a length of 0.5-1 m. The front side of oblong ovoid leaves has a dark green color with silvery specks, and the reverse side is brownish-red. Dense inflorescences of coral begonia consist of simple small flowers.

• Begonia fuchsioides (lat.Begonia fuchsioides) with highly branching high stems (up to 1 m) and large oval green leaves with a glossy surface. The rare hanging flowers of fuchsia begonia are colored in all shades of red.

back to contents ↑ Tuberous begonia.

Tuberous begonia has a tuberous rhizome, fleshy translucent stems up to 80 cm high, simple or double flowers, similar to roses, carnations, camellias or peonies. Flowers can be both small and large, single and in inflorescences, with a diameter of 3 to 20 cm. Plants are herbaceous, shrub or ampelous.The leaves are heart-shaped; they can be either fluffy matte or glossy, flat or corrugated. The color of the leaves contains all shades of green, from light to dark. Tuberous begonia bloom is long and very beautiful, lasts from May to October.

Popular varieties of upright tuberous begonias:

• Begonia Pikoti Harlequin (lat. Picotee Arlequin) - a semi-spreading plant no more than 0.25 m high with large (up to 12 cm in diameter) double yellow flowers that have a bright red border. The leaves are green, jagged.

• Begonia Bouton de Rose (lat. Bouton de rose) - a short compact bush with double rose-like flowers reaching 18 cm in size. The petals are white or pale pink. The leaves of Bouton de Rose begonias are green, large, with a wavy edge.

• Begonia Duck Red (lat. Dark red) - a low-growing bush with semi-spreading stems and large fine-toothed green leaves. The double dark red flowers of this begonias do not exceed 10 cm in diameter and resemble a peony.

• Begonia Crispus Marginata (lat. Crispa marginata) - a sprawling plant with green leaves that have a purple edging. The height of the begonia is 15 cm. The flower is delicate yellow or white with a red border and curly edges.

Ampel varieties of tuberous begonia:

• Begonia ampelous Is a tuberous variety of begonia with long, flowing stems, strewn with bright flowers on long flower shoots. The flowering period lasts from early spring to late autumn. One of the most popular varietal groups of ampelous begonias is the “Chanson” series, which amazes with a variety of colors and shades. Noteworthy are the following varieties of ampel begonias:
  • Rocsana - flowers are large, double, orange;
  • Kristy - flowers are white, double;
  • Girl - flowers are semi-double, pale pink.

• Bolivian begonia (lat.Begonia boliviensis) - a kind of ampelous begonia, the shoots of which first grow upward, and upon reaching a height of 30 cm, elegantly fall down in the form of a multi-tiered flower cascade. The following varieties of Bolivian begonias are especially popular:
  • Santa Cruz Sunset F1 - a strong, spreading plant, forming drooping shoots, up to 40 cm long. From the beginning of summer to October, it is covered with many red-orange, fuchsia-shaped flowers;
  • Copacabana F1 - a hardy and unpretentious creeping plant, during the flowering period, strewn with many bright red bell-shaped flowers;
  • Bossa Nova F1 - a sprawling plant with shoots up to 50 cm long, from spring to frost covered with fuchsia-shaped flowers of red, orange, pink or white.

back to content ↑ Flowering begonia (beautifully flowering, decorative flowering).

This group includes begonias with very beautiful simple and double flowers of various colors. The most popular are the following types and varieties of begonias:

• Ever-flowering begonia (lat.Begonia semperflorens) unites an extensive group of varieties that have a wonderful property to bloom all summer, regardless of weather conditions. The most famous varieties of ever-flowering begonia:

• Begonia Elatior (lat.Begonia elatior) - a hybrid variety from England, obtained by crossing tuberous begonia and Socotran begonia. Due to the ability of year-round flowering, this plant received the name winter begonia (lat.Begonia hiemalis). It is a compact shrub, about 40 cm high, with a thick stem and bright, glossy leaves about 8 cm long, in the shape of an asymmetrical heart with serrated edges. Numerous simple or double flowers form multi-tiered inflorescences growing on long pedicels. Elatior begonia varieties, depending on the height of the bush, are divided into 3 types:

- high (about 40 cm) (for example, Louise, Renaissance, Schwabenland varieties);

- medium (about 30 cm) (for example, varieties Kyoto, Annebell, Bellona);

- undersized (no higher than 25 cm) (for example, varieties Scharlach, Lachsorange, Piccora)

Begonia Elatior cultivar Renaissance Put

• Begonia Gloire de Lorrain (lat.Begonia Gloire de Lorraine), like the begonia Elatior, it belongs to the winter-flowering varieties. It was bred in France in 1891 by crossing Begonia socotrana and Begonia dregei. This rather sprawling, low plant is distinguished by rounded glossy leaves of light green color with a red spot at the base. Begonia bloom begins in the fall and continues throughout the winter. Simple flowers form drooping pink brushes. The most popular varieties of the group:
  • Competitor - a sprawling, showy bush, strewn with intense pink flowers;
  • Marina - a low-growing plant with dense pink flowers growing on short flower shoots;
  • Rosemary - a variety of Swiss selection with many small, pink flowers.

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine

back to contents ↑ Where does the begonia flower grow?

In the wild, begonia grows in tropical rainforests and in the highlands. Most begonias are found in Argentina and Brazil, Venezuela and Bolivia, Peru and Chile, India, Pakistan, the Malay Islands, Sri Lanka and the western part of the African continent. Despite the favorable climatic conditions, the begonia flower does not grow in the vastness of Australia and the Polynesian islands.

Begonia ampelous

Indoors, these flowers can grow all over the world, the main thing is to create the necessary microclimate for begonias.

Black begonia cultivar Black Fang

back to content ↑ Garden begonia: planting and care in the open field.

In mid-latitudes, almost all types of begonias are grown indoors, with the exception of tuberous begonia, which can also be grown outdoors.

Planting begonias in the garden is carried out in early June, when the threat of frost disappears. For the plant, you need to choose places that are slightly shaded or with diffused sunlight. Before planting begonia in open ground, the seedling is hardened by placing it in a well-lit room for a week with an average daytime temperature of 23-270C and a night temperature of 12-150C.

The best soil for begonias is soil mixtures containing leafy soil, humus, peat and sand, combined in a ratio of 1: 0.5: 0.5: 0.5. Drainage is poured at the bottom of the hole (expanded clay, fine gravel or coarse sand). After that, a mixture of peat and compost is added to it, which can be replaced with complex potash-phosphorus fertilizers. The begonia planted in the garden should be watered and the ground around it should be sprinkled with wood ash. To avoid hypothermia, the seedling is covered with a film or agrofibre at night.

Taking proper care of tuberous begonia outdoors is easy. It is necessary to regularly loosen the soil near the flower, providing oxygen access to the tubers. Watering the garden begonia should be based on the amount of precipitation, usually every 3 days. With the onset of the dry period, the frequency of watering increases with the subsequent loosening of the soil. Be careful when watering begonias: the plant feels comfortable in high humidity, but it absolutely does not tolerate water droplets on the leaves, as this can lead to a disease such as gray rot.

Begonia in landscape design looks amazing and allows you to create magnificent flower beds that will delight you all summer!

back to contents ↑ Begonia care in the fall.

In the fall, after the leaves fall off, the plant is prepared for winter:

• stop watering begonias;
• in the first decade of October, begonia tubers are removed from the ground;
• the stem of the begonia is cut off, leaving a process of 3 cm from it;
• the tubers are dried at room temperature for 14 days;
• begonia tubers are placed in a wooden box, covered with sand;
• store tubers in a room with a temperature of at least 5-60C.

back to contents ↑ When to dig up begonias?

There is no need to rush to dig up begonias for the winter immediately after the onset of cold weather. Indeed, in the fall, the plant especially intensively grows tubers and accumulates nutrients in them, then the future flower buds are laid. Begonia must be kept in the soil for as long as possible so that the aboveground part turns yellow and dries up. Then the entire stock of photosynthetic products from the leaves will inevitably “drain” to the tubers.

A garden begonia growing in a flower bed is dug up with a pitchfork, carefully taken out with a clod of earth, and, without removing the aboveground part, is laid out in a dry, cool room. After a month, dead stems and soil residues are completely removed. For storage, begonias tubers are placed in containers with dry sand or peat and sprayed with a spray bottle once a month.

Begonias growing in pots can not be dug out, but wait until the stems die completely and be stored directly in the pot. In February-March, begonias begin to be watered, and with the appearance of young shoots, they are transplanted into a new container.

In any case, it is recommended to divide the tubers in the spring, when buds appear on them.

back to contents ↑ Begonia: home care, photo.

The question of how to care for begonia at home is of interest to many indoor plant lovers. In fact, caring for a room begonia is pretty simple. This plant is photophilous, but does not like direct rays of the sun, therefore, window sills that face east, southeast, northwest or west are used to place it. The main condition is that there are no drafts.

The most favorable temperature regime ranges from 22 to 250C in summer and from 15 to 180C in winter. The soil for home begonias is used the same as for growing begonias in the garden: leafy earth, humus, peat and sand in a ratio of 1: 0.5: 0.5: 0.5.

Watering begonia in a pot in spring and summer is necessary with settled water, preventing the earthen coma from drying out and waterlogging. In winter, watering of deciduous and bush flowers is reduced to a minimum. Tuberous species of begonias cease to moisturize, they shed their foliage, after which all dried parts are removed from the plant, and the tubers wait out the cold in dry peat soil.

Top dressing of indoor begonias is important for the successful development of the plant, and nitrogen fertilizers are suitable for leafy species, which stimulate foliage growth, and for flowering ones, phosphorus-containing ones.

back to contents ↑ Transplanting begonias.

Tuberous begonias are transplanted into a new pot and soil every spring, and varieties with a branched or fibrous root need this procedure when the pot has become small. The plant is removed from an old container and its roots are immersed in a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) for disinfection. After removing the damaged parts, the plant is planted in a larger pot with fresh soil.

back to content ↑ Begonia propagation, methods and photos.

Spring is the best time to breed begonias. Breeding methods:

• rooting cuttings with several (3-5) leaves;
• dividing the bush into parts with separate roots;
• cutting a large tuber into several parts with sprouts;
• leaves, cutting large veins on the back of the leaf and immersing it with an incision down into wet sand;
• seedlings from seeds germinated at the end of winter.

back to contents ↑ Propagation of begonias by cuttings.

Cutting is one of the most common methods for breeding begonias. Many amateur flower growers use it due to the fact that it:

• easy to execute;
• gives quick results;
• suitable for all stem begonias;
• retains all varietal characteristics.

To propagate begonias in this way, it is enough to cut cuttings at least 10 cm long with a sharp knife. For this, you can use both the upper and middle parts of the stem.The main condition for a good cutting is the presence of at least two or three buds on it. After that, all excess leaves are removed from it, leaving only one or two upper ones. If the leaves are large, they are cut in half.

After completing the preparatory operations, you can start rooting the cutting. Florists use two methods for this:

• rooting in water;
• rooting in the ground.

Cuttings that will be used for rooting in water do not need further processing. For the material that will germinate in the substrate, the sections must be sprinkled with wood ash and dried.

• Rooting begonias in water.

Begonia cuttings are dipped in a container with water, the temperature of which should not differ from the temperature of the room where germination will be carried out. You can only use soft water, as hard or cold water can be detrimental to the future plant. The container with cuttings is placed in a room with a temperature of 18-20 ° C, well illuminated by indirect sunlight. It is advisable to use a transparent container to constantly monitor the state of the cut. If signs of decay of the begonia cuttings are noticed, the cut is updated, and a fresh portion of water is poured into the container. After the roots of about 1-2 cm long appear on the cutting, it can be transplanted into a pre-prepared pot with a suitable soil.

• Rooting begonias in the ground (substrate).

As a substrate used for rooting cuttings, it is advisable to use soil for begonias, purchased in specialized stores. However, you can use sand and peat mixed in a 3: 1 ratio. For successful rooting, the room temperature should be in the range of 22-24 ° C. A small pot for germination should be chosen so that the rooted plant grows not only, but also plentifully flowers.

The lower cut of the cutting before planting in the ground must be treated with drugs that stimulate root formation. The seedling is buried in a well-moistened substrate to the level of the leaves. Then the pot with the shank is covered with a glass jar or plastic bottle. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that no part of the cutting does not touch the walls or the lid.

The condensation that appears on the walls indicates the correct microclimate in a kind of greenhouse. To harden the plant, you need to remove the can or bottle for a few minutes every day and air the future begonia. When the first leaves appear, covering is no longer performed.

back to content ↑ Begonia propagation by dividing a bush or rhizomes.

Shrub begonias with a well-developed branchy root system can be propagated by dividing the bush or rhizomes. To do this, in the spring, the plant is removed from the pot along with a lump of earth so as not to damage the roots. After that, old stems and peduncles, as well as large leaves, are removed from the begonias. The rhizomes are carefully freed from the clods of earth and are divided into several parts with a sharp knife. The main condition is the presence of a shoot or bud on each of them. The cuts are immediately treated with wood ash. The separated parts are planted in pots with a substrate, which must be used as a special soil for begonias, purchased in flower shops. After abundant watering, the separated plants are placed in a room with good lighting (but not in direct sunlight) and a temperature of 20-25 ° C.

Hybrid begonia Elatior Ceveca

back to contents ↑ Reproduction of tuberous begonia.

To propagate tuberous begonia, you need to remove the plant from the ground at the end of August. In this case, it is advisable to leave a large earthen lump. After that, the begonia is placed in a room protected from atmospheric precipitation and with good ventilation. For the winter period, I bury the tubers in sand or peat.During storage, it is necessary to moisten this substrate several times so that the tubers do not dry out.

In the spring, before planting, the tubers are removed and carefully examined. For division, dense tubers with several buds are chosen. Begonia tubers with hatched sprouts are not used for division.

Selected tubers are divided into several fragments with a sharp knife, leaving at least two buds in each. To protect the sections from the penetration of pathogenic bacteria and drying out, they are abundantly sprinkled with wood ash immediately after the operation.

The planting material is planted in pre-prepared pots with a substrate so that the upper part of the begonia tuber with buds barely rises above the surface. After that, the soil is watered abundantly, and the pot itself is covered with plastic wrap, or covered with a plastic container to create a greenhouse effect. After the sprouts appear, the shelter is removed from the plant. When the height of begonia sprouts reaches five to seven centimeters, the tuber is completely covered with soil.

Golden Balcony variety

back to contents ↑ Propagation of begonias by seeds.

Propagating begonias by seeds is considered a rather troublesome task. But, if you need to preserve the varietal qualities of the plant, then this is the best way.

The seed can be purchased at a specialized flower shop. Due to the fact that the seeds of the plant are too small, to facilitate the planting process, they are coated, that is, they are covered with a special shell, which then dissolves.

Florists believe that the most favorable period for sowing begonia seeds is January-February: before the fall, the plant will have time to get stronger. If you delay sowing until March, then the begonias will have enough time to develop, but flowering will be late. Even later planting of seeds is not desirable, because due to a weak root system or very small tubers during the dormant period, the plant may die.

Plant begonia seeds in a box, suitable container, or clear plastic box. At the bottom of the planting container, there must be a drainage layer at least 0.5 cm thick and holes for water drainage. The soil can be used commercially available, but you should additionally mix it with sand in equal quantities. You can independently prepare a homogeneous soil mixture without lumps, consisting of peat, sand and leafy earth, taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 2.

Before sowing begonia seeds, the soil is slightly moistened. The seeds are evenly spread over the surface, they are slightly pressed into the soil, and not sprinkled with earth. From above, the container must be covered with transparent glass, film or a lid in order to maintain the necessary moisture. Seedlings can die even with the smallest drying out of the soil. The container with seedlings is kept in a room where the air temperature is kept between 20 and 25 ° C. In order not to wash off tiny seeds from the surface, watering is carried out from a tray or by drip, using a spray bottle.

The emergence of seedlings depends on the quality of the planting material, so the seeds germinate in a week or two. As soon as shoots appear, the container with the plantings must be moved to the window, where the temperature is slightly lower (18-20 ° C). Begonia sprouts will be less elongated and more robust when there is a lot of bright ambient light. This will require additional lighting of the plants from above. Ordinary fluorescent lamps can be used.

So that the moisture droplets formed on the greenhouse lid do not fall on the seedlings and do not destroy them, but flow sideways, you can put something under one of the sides of the container (a pencil, a small board, etc.). The sprouts are accustomed to fresh air gradually, lifting the lid or film for 30 minutes during the day.

After 15-20 days, when a pair of true leaves with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm appears on tiny plants, they are carefully seated at a distance of 2 cm from each other or placed in small plastic cups. The soil is poured the same that was used for sowing. Seedlings, carefully so that small roots do not curl up, are lowered into a hole made in a moist soil. The transplanted sprouts are lightly spilled with warm water. A month later, when the begonia seedlings become very dense, a second pick is carried out, observing the distance between the bushes of at least 5 cm.Once every one and a half to two weeks, it can be fertilized with a special fertilizing that stimulates the growth of the begonia root system. For the third time, grown plants dive with an interval of 7 cm between them. After four weeks, the begonia is ready to be planted in a pot or permanently in the garden.

back to contents ↑ Begonia propagation by a leaf.

Begonia is propagated with the help of leaves. Breeding sheets are selected of middle age and without traces of disease. There are several methods:

Propagation of begonias with whole leaves with petioles.

The first method is suitable for those types of begonias that do not have pronounced stems. To do this, in spring or early summer, strong healthy leaves with a petiole length of at least 3-4 cm are cut off and placed in a transparent container with settled water at room temperature. Some experts advise dissolving one activated charcoal tablet in water. The flower grower can only monitor the water level in the container and the state of the petiole. If traces of decay are visible, it is slightly trimmed, and a fresh portion of water is poured into the glass. When roots appear about 2 cm long, the plant can be transplanted into a pot with a substrate for begonias.

Propagation of begonias with whole leaf plates.

To get several young plants from one leaf, the method of propagation with a whole leaf plate is used. To do this, proceed as follows:

• the petiole is removed from the selected healthy leaf, which has a pubescent lower part and thick transverse veins;
• the sheet is turned face down and perpendicular cuts are made on the transverse veins at intervals of two to three centimeters;
• a flat container or any suitable container is filled with begonia substrate;
• a begonia leaf is laid on the prepared moistened soil with cuts down and fixed by pressing it with small weights;
• the container is covered with a plastic bag or a transparent plastic lid.

A kind of mini-greenhouse is taken to a room with a temperature of about 24 ° C with a little shading. Periodically, the surface of the substrate and mother leaf must be sprayed with water to create the necessary microclimate. The lack of moisture inside the greenhouse will be indicated by the absence of moisture droplets on the surface of the package or lid.

Down-like roots emerge from the incisions after 3-4 weeks. As the roots develop, they darken and thicken. After another half a month, the formation of the first leaves is noted. From this point on, you need to start hardening young plants. To do this, the greenhouse is ventilated daily for 10-20 minutes. The grown seedlings can be dived into separate glasses, then transplanted into a permanent pot.

Propagation of begonias by parts of the leaf plate.

Another method that allows you to get several begonias from one leaf is germination from its parts. Plants with creeping stems or well-pubescent leaves are suitable for this propagation method.

The technique is pretty simple:

• the cut leaf of begonia is laid on a hard, flat surface;
• starting from the central vein towards the edges of the leaf, cuts are made with a sharp knife so that triangular pieces are formed containing at least two transverse veins. The main condition is to preserve the nerve node;
• the resulting planting material is immersed with the lower sharp tip in moistened sand in a flat container, or in peat tablets;
• to maintain optimal humidity, the container is covered with a glass or transparent plastic lid (you can use a plastic bag).

Care for begonia seedlings consists in periodically spraying the surface of the substrate with water from a spray bottle and airing the greenhouse after the young leaves appear in the plants. After about 3 months, rooted young begonias are transplanted into separate pots, trying not to compact the soil too much so as not to damage the root collar.

back to contents ↑ Diseases and pests of begonia.

Diseases to which begonia is susceptible:

• powdery mildew on begonias, it manifests itself as a characteristic whitish bloom on all aerial parts. To fight the infection, the diseased plant and its neighbors on the windowsill are treated with an aqueous solution of Topaz-type fungicide. To completely get rid of powdery mildew on begonias, re-treatment is carried out after a week and a half.

• gray rot occurs on the leaves and stems of begonia. Without timely spraying of the affected parts with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or 0.2% foundationol, the plant may die.

• Ring spot manifests itself as yellow-green spots and necrotic areas on the affected leaves. The disease is often concentrated in the tubers of the plant, so it is better to eliminate the diseased begonia, this will protect other plants. Thrips and aphids are carriers of the virus, so you need to destroy these pests so that other flowers do not get sick.
• Bacterial spot at first it appears on the lower surface of the leaves with watery blisters, which gradually turn brown and affect the cuttings and inflorescences. The diseased plant is destroyed, and as a preventive measure, healthy begonias are treated with a 0.5% solution of copper oxychloride every 2 weeks.

• Soft shield affects the green mass of begonias: you can determine the presence of a pest by dark sugary secretions and the appearance of sooty mushrooms. The affected plant loses its shape very quickly, and the begonia leaves are noticeably deformed. Sick begonia is treated with garlic tincture or pyrethrum infusion at the rate of 10 g per 1 liter of water every 14 days.

• Greenhouse whitefly lays eggs on the underside of begonia leaves, resulting in a noticeable discoloration of the plant. A solution of laundry soap (40 g of soap per 10 liters of water) will help to destroy the pest.

• Gall nematode is a microscopic worm that parasitizes in the root area of ​​begonia. Growths and air cavities are formed on the stem, in which the larvae develop. The roots begin to rot, the plant stops growing and may die. Affected begonia roots are removed, and the plant is watered with 0.05-0.2% heterophos solution. A preventive measure of control is the disinfection of the soil with a 1% formalin solution or steam treatment.

• Spider mites and aphids do great harm to begonias. The appearance of parasites can be prevented by removing fallen leaves and faded flowers. When the first alarm signals appear, you need to wipe the plant leaves with a mild soapy solution. If this does not help, they resort to treating begonias with insecticides (neoron, phytoverm, sulfur, decis and others). You can also use onion infusion: 15 g of onions are infused for 5-7 days in 1 liter of water, and then the plants are sprayed every 5-7 days until the pests disappear completely.

Double bouton de rose variety

back to contents ↑ Frequently asked questions about begonia. Why begonia does not bloom?

There are several reasons why begonia does not bloom:

• lack of sunlight;
• insufficient humidity in the room;
• unsuitable temperature regime;
• drafts;
• oversaturation with fertilizers.

Change one of the above and begonia will delight you with its beautiful flowers.

back to contents ↑ Why do begonias drop buds immediately after they appear?

This problem can have several reasons:

• improper watering;
• lack of sunlight;
• lack of feeding.

back to contents ↑ Why do begonia leaves turn yellow?

The reason for the yellowing of begonia leaves may be a lack of moisture. And also often this problem is caused by pests that affect the root system of the plant. In this case, you should replace the soil by cleaning the roots and washing them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

back to contents ↑ Why do begonia leaves curl?

• This phenomenon can occur due to non-observance of the temperature regime in the room.
• Frequent and heavy watering can also affect begonia's leaf curl, especially if it has been sprayed.
• It is imperative to feed the plant: poor or unbalanced nutrition can lead to this problem.

back to contents ↑ Interesting Begonia Facts:

• The asteroid discovered in 1920 was named Begonia.
• At the Flower Festival in Belgium, a picturesque carpet of over 800,000 begonias blooms every two years.
• It is believed that the begonia flower has a positive energy, relieves depression and helps insecure people to gain strength of character.
• Begonia has a beneficial effect on the state of the human cardiovascular system, since these plants are able to cleanse the air in a room from dust emitted from synthetic materials, and also reduce the level of pathogenic microbes and bacteria.

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The date:

03.04.2013 |

Section: Flowers at home

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Views: 1,050

Variegated begonias often disappoint their new owners. These beauties come to stores from greenhouses with optimal growing conditions. And in apartments all the beauty of the leaves disappears somewhere.

What should be done to make variegated begonias beautiful?

Let's start with lighting... It should be bright diffused, both natural and artificial. If direct sunlight falls on the plants early in the morning, there will be no harm, but only in the morning. Most of the day begonias can be in partial shade. In winter, these plants can be kept on the southern windows. If this is not possible, then they will also suffer a lack of light, but their color will become less bright.

Watering - one of the most important factors in the beauty of plants. Begonias do not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. In wide and low pots, the substrate dries out more evenly and faster. Therefore, it is better to plant begonias in such containers. It is necessary to water after the top layer dries up to the length of the match. Rare watering also harms the plants. Their roots are thin, dry easily. Watering frequency depends on air temperature and ventilation intensity. But drafts are dangerous for begonias.

Do not spray... Water stains on the leaves spoil their beauty.

Almost all begonias are good grow at moderate temperatures and do not like heat.

In old buildings, it is not always possible to create the necessary conditions for many indoor flowers. And modern projects provide maximum comfort not only for residents, but also for the placement of green oases. For example, the apartments put into operation in 2013 will not leave indifferent any lover of comfortable housing. And indoor flowers will help make your home unique and cozy.

Reproduction of variegated begonias not difficult. They can be propagated by apical and leafy cuttings in water, sphagnum and vermiculite. After rooting the cutting, you need to take a wide and low pot. At the bottom of it, you need to put a drainage from pieces of foam plastic with the addition of charcoal, and so that the earth does not clog the drainage, put a piece of moss or just a circle of paper tea towels on top. Then mix the finished peat substrate for herbaceous plants with chopped pine bark, coconut fiber and leaf and coniferous humus. If there is no component, it's okay. This is just the best option. Pour the prepared mixture into a pot and plant the cutting. Several copies can be planted in a pot at once.

In winter, it is important to put a pot holderso that it does not come into contact with the cold windowsill. The temperature of the earthy coma should not be allowed to be lower than the air temperature. To reduce the dryness of the air in winter, you can put several pots of begonias on a large tray with stones, gravel, pieces of moss and regularly spray everything on the tray without touching the plants.

Of diseases most often begonias suffer from pathogenic bacteria and fungi. Some lovers of these plants advise adding phytosporin to the water for irrigation once a month.

Usually after 2-3 years you have to cut plants and grow new specimens. Old bushes are losing their attractiveness.

With proper care, beautiful begonia leaves will delight you all the time.

Veronica, for the site