How to properly grow petunia seedlings at the initial stage?

Petunia has long conquered floriculture enthusiasts and has become No. 1 among the leaders in the number of varieties, in the number of grown specimens, in terms of use in various compositions. It takes root well in flower beds, ridges, alpine slides, in pots and containers. And everywhere it feels great, adding bright, sunny colors to our world. Consider what kind of petunia is needed for growing from seeds and when to plant seedlings.

Plant advantages

Why did the plant become so popular in a fairly short time? After all, growing petunias from seeds is not an easy task. But flower growers cope with these problems because they know what the result will be: a chic, bright bush, covered with simple or double flowers, with a wonderful aroma. It's worth the work!

And the qualities that distinguish it from other colors are many:

1. cold resistance, which is especially appreciated by residents of the northern regions,
2. unpretentiousness and ease of growing,
3. you can grow yourself, and not buy seedlings in flower centers,
4. has many shapes and shades,
5. many varieties are fragrant,
6. good in both single and group landings,
7. blooms throughout the summer.

In addition, hybrids (F1) appeared on sale, completely unique in their survival rate, abundant flowering, and a variety of forms. There are plenty to choose from and create a unique floral arrangement.

Seed selection

Breeders offer a huge selection of seeds. This is great, but the choice must be approached consciously. Remember that hybrids for the next year will not give you a flower waterfall, such seeds are used once. Look at the expiration date on the package, because the seeds "hatch" for a long time, and it will be unpleasant if they do not sprout at all.

Choose seeds based on your needs. What compositions do you want to create, what dreams and fantasies do you want to realize? Maybe cascading or ampelous petunias are needed. Maybe double forms or simple ones are interesting, but so that the scent surrounds your home.

Be sure to read the characteristics on the back of the bag, and the shape of the plant itself will become clear, how much space it will take, what diameter the flower will be. Now they sell all the seeds, mostly pelleted, wrapped in a nutrient film. There are not many of them in the package. And they are usually expensive. But do not spare the money, because you need a good result. A beautiful, lush petunia originates from a small seed.

Soil composition and sowing containers

It is best to use containers with transparent lids (possibly heated), in which plastic or peat jars, peat tablets, egg trays are placed. There are universal containers on sale: with jars inside, with a lid, heated.All the conditions so that you can grow petunias from seeds at home.

Tip: you can take different containers for planting, but remember that the seeds are very small, therefore, at first, the container will need to be covered with glass or transparent material on top to retain moisture.

The composition of the soil consists of leafy soil, peat, fine sand and humus. That is, the mixture is light and nutritious at the same time. The mixture should be sieved and steamed for 1 hour (against diseases and weeds). A layer of fine gravel can be poured into the bottom of the container, or a hole can be made (which is best) so that the root system can consume the required amount of water. When grown from seeds at home, petunia is painful to lack of moisture, so the soil should not dry out.

Fill each container with soil, not reaching 1 cm to the top (for watering), slightly compact it, otherwise the seed may "fall" into the soil. In the center of the jar, make a small indentation for planting.

Tip: It is advisable that the container is under one plant, and it can be removed without damaging the roots when you plant it in a permanent place.

Rules for growing seedlings of petunias from seeds

The main question of interest to flower growers: "When to plant petunias from seeds, followed by cultivation in the open field?" After all, large seedlings will hardly take root, and small ones will not have time to please us with flowers throughout the summer.

Petunias at home should be sown no earlier than mid-March, when daylight hours will be longer, and the seedlings will turn out to be medium in size. You can plant seeds in the last days of February, but in this case additional lighting will be required. Germination of seeds requires a high room temperature - +25 degrees.

How to properly grow petunia seedlings? Let's consider several ways:

• The seeds are mixed with sand, evenly scattered over the surface of the earthen mixture, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with captivity.
• If the seeds are pelleted (covered with a nutritious shell), then each seed can be placed separately in a peat tablet, making a small depression in it and covering it with a film.
• Compact the soil a little, cover the top with a small layer of 1-1.5 cm of snow. Spread the seeds evenly on the snow. It will melt and the seeds will be on the surface of the soil. Cover the container with glass, place in a warm, well-lit place. You can put a table lamp next to it.
• Place the seed in each individual peat pot and cover with foil. Place the pots in a tray. So it is more convenient for you to monitor the seedlings, and excess moisture will collect at the bottom of the pallet.

Tip: The seeds of this flower culture are small in size and do not need to be sprinkled with earth. But they need moisture: constant spraying is necessary as well as regular ventilation.

It can be concluded that growing petunia from seeds is troublesome, but the result will exceed all your expectations!

Features of caring for flower seedlings

If you do not have specific knowledge of how to grow petunia seedlings, then we will tell you about it in stages:

1. Seedlings will sprout in a week. Seedlings are weak and small, all the forces of which are spent on the development of the root system. If the plants are densely growing in the container, carefully thin them out. Otherwise, the seedlings will stretch out and turn out to be frail and weak.
2. In addition, it is necessary to periodically ventilate the seedlings. Remove the film or glass, remove the condensation and leave the seedlings for an hour "in the fresh air." Also remove moisture from the seedlings so that water droplets do not appear on the leaves. If the air stagnates in a humid environment, then mold, fungi and still weak seedlings can get sick on the surface of the earth. You need to ventilate every day.
3. Continue watering, but very gently. Watering should be drip or can be sprayed from above using the same spray bottle. Do not pour water over a container or pot. Neither excess nor lack of moisture is needed here.
4. Seedlings grown in a container should be dived into pots. Gently loosen the soil with a toothpick or fork, pinch the long roots and transfer to a separate container. With a noticeable stretching of the seedlings, it is better to place it in a cool place for a while (veranda, balcony).
5. If containers or pallets with seedlings are located on the south or west windowsill, then there should be no problems with lighting and the seedlings will not be pulled out. But the north and east sides require mandatory lighting. Now there are special lamps on sale, but you can do it yourself. For example, place a sheet of foil (or mirrored sheet) so that the sun's rays are reflected and re-incident on the plants.
6. Grown hybrids, with strong shoot growth, need to be pinched. The shoot needs to be pinched over 4-5 sheets. The plant will begin to bush well, which is what is needed for abundant flowering and large volume.
7. Seedlings can and should be hardened, especially if you survive in the northern regions. We harden it gradually: first, we take it out into a room where the temperature is 10 degrees, for 10-15 minutes and every day we increase the time. Subsequently, the plant will be resistant to temperature extremes in the open field.

At home, growing petunias on your own from seeds is not so difficult, because it is constantly under supervision, and if you correctly follow all the rules of care, then the seedlings will turn out to be strong and strong.

Tip: root picking should be done when the plant has already formed and has 4-5 leaves, i.e. when the plant is strong enough for such a procedure. Plants in peat tablets are not dived.

The front of the work is large, but now there should be no questions about how to grow petunia, so you are guaranteed success in the form of bright, flower beds.

Petunia is an absolute favorite among the annuals. In terms of popularity, distribution, and abundant flowering, this plant outshines any other competitors. Seedlings of petunias from spring to autumn flood store shelves. Growing petunias from seeds on your own is not an easy task. But with some diligence and attention, you can create your own collection of petunias yourself.

Growing seedlings of petunias from seeds

Content:

• Petunia seeds: self-collection and purchase
• Sowing petunias for seedlings
  • Soil and containers for sowing petunias
  • Sowing petunia seeds
  • Conditions for seed germination
• Growing plants
• Diving seedlings and caring for young plants
• Hardening of petunia seedlings
• Planting petunia seedlings in soil and containers
• Growing petunias by sowing in open ground
• Alternative breeding methods for petunias

Garden petunias (Petunia x hybrida or Petunia hybrida) are some of the most famous members of the Solanaceae family. With a height of 10 to 100 cm, this herbaceous annual with well-branched, densely leafy, creeping or straight shoots allows you to choose larger or more compact varieties. Oval soft leaves with a solid edge, the shape and presence of a pointed tip, which may differ depending on the variety, sit on the shoots alternately. The beautiful edge emphasizes the light tone of the leaves.

Huge funnel-shaped gramophone flowers of petunias with their correctness or irregularity and various colors are the main decoration of the plant. They create whole blooming clouds and cascades, but the beauty of each flower is mesmerizing. Blooming in early summer and not slowing down until the arrival of frost, petunia offers a considerable choice of colors, flower sizes, variations of multicolor colors and ruffled edges, varying degrees of terry and even the shape of the corolla.

The variety of petunias is so great that it is not easy even for experienced flower growers to understand the groups, varieties, classes and varieties. But in terms of cultivation techniques, all petunias are similar. In the matter of reproduction, all petunias practically do not differ from each other.And petunias grandiflora, and multiflora, and nana, and individual groups of petunias, and even fashionable novelties multiply mainly by seeds - seedling.

Petunia seeds: self-collection and purchase

After flowering (defloration), petunias are tied with two-nested capsules-cones of fruits a little more than a centimeter long, which turn golden brown as they ripen. It is by color that the timing of seed collection is determined, which on average is 4-8 weeks after petunias flowering. You should not rush to remove the seeds from the fruit pods: their full ripening will occur only after 3 or even 4 months. Petunia fruits are laid out in a dark, ventilated place with standard room temperatures. After 4 months, the seeds can be removed, sorted, marked and stored in paper bags protected from cold, heat, light and high humidity.

To get petunia seeds on your own, you need to leave some of the wilting flowers on the plant. It is preferable to leave the lower buds, which are among the first to bloom. When collecting petunia seeds, it is better to be prepared for the fact that the offspring will not retain the characteristics of the mother variety and will surprise with its variety of qualities. In order to collect seeds yourself, you also need to pay attention to three important nuances:

1. To collect your seeds, you will have to select only varieties: sterile hybrids, terry forms of seeds do not form, since as a result of selection, the ovaries of such petunias have transformed into petals.
2. Petunias are cross-pollinated plants, self-pollination occurs only in isolated cases.
3. Pollination of non-double plants with pollen of varietal double petunias allows you to get some of the seeds with double flowers, but still the number of plants that have retained their characteristics will not exceed 30%. It is for this reason that it is recommended to buy seeds for terry varieties.

Inside the capsule are surprisingly small seeds that make the job of sowing the plants very difficult. The diameter of the dark brown petunia seeds merging with the soil is slightly more than half a millimeter. Due to their tiny size, one gram of seeds contains up to 5-10 thousand potential plants (in large-flowered varieties, the seeds are slightly larger than in multi-flowered varieties). About a hundred seeds can be collected from one fruit, therefore petunias are rightly called one of the most prolific annuals.

The number of petunia varieties is measured in thousands. Choosing professional or "regular" petunia seeds is not an easy task:

1. First of all, you need to focus on decorative characteristics - features of flowering, color, plant height, foliage density, shape and length of shoots, the recommended use of a separate variety. Ampel varieties are used only for hanging baskets and cascades in boxes, in all other cases, due to dense tillering and good branching, bush varieties are preferred.
2. When choosing petunia seeds, it should be borne in mind that these plants have an average growing season of about 70 days. Small-flowered petunias bloom at typical times, large-flowered petunias bloom at least three weeks later.
3. On sale there are both individual varieties and variety series, and mixtures of varieties. The latter for petunias always carry the risk of not getting exactly the result that is expected. Therefore, it is better to purchase individual varieties and sow them, creating your own collection, rather than buying a variety mixture with different shades.
4. No less important is the choice of the manufacturer itself, and specialized stores or garden centers, and not spontaneous points of sale. Tested on other letniki, proven to be reliable firms for petunias are preferable to experimenting with new suppliers. Pay attention to the completeness of information about the manufacturer himself, the quality of the description of the plant and the recommended agricultural technology, the availability of all information about the shelf life and the batch of seeds.
5. Petunias are common, but by no means budgetary annuals; too low a price for seeds is associated with a high risk of buying low-quality planting material.
6. In petunias, ordinary seeds are considered more reliable, although pelleted ones are more convenient to use (but they are more sensitive to the accuracy of sowing - timing - and lighting parameters).

Petunia seeds remain viable for a long time, they can be purchased for future use. Within three to four years, seed germination is practically not lost, so it is not at all necessary to buy the freshest seeds.

Petunia seed shoots

Petunia is not the easiest culture. Small seeds, fragile and sensitive seedlings require care when growing seedlings. Still, the beauty of the summer is worth the effort.

Soil and containers for sowing petunias

To grow petunias from seeds at home, there is no need to select special containers. Ordinary seed boxes and low containers or bowls are suitable for this summer. Since petunia is not afraid of being transplanted, it is not individual cassettes or peat tablets that are used for it, but large shared containers. The optimal soil height for petunias is about 6-7 cm, too low containers will not work for this summer, but it is better to avoid deep ones. The containers in which the plants were previously grown must be additionally prepared and disinfected.

For diving seedlings of petunias, small individual plastic and peat pots or cassettes are used. A diameter of 6 to 8 cm is sufficient for the normal development of young annuals.

For seedlings of petunias and sowing seeds, any high-quality soil mixture for growing seedlings is suitable. Both independently mixed and purchased substrates, if they are loose, nutritious, capable of retaining moisture, but not prone to compaction, do not have a strong acidic or lime reaction, are perfect. The standard is pH 5.5.

For petunias, a universal substrate is often used, consisting of equal parts of humus, sod, leafy soil and peat with a halved proportion of sand. Any soil before sowing petunia seeds is best disinfected with a solution of fungicides or calcined a few days before sowing and sifted at least for the top layer. For sowing and diving petunias, use the same substrate.

Sowing petunia seeds

Early sowing dates are preferred for petunias. If there is no opportunity to organize supplementary lighting, then sowing is carried out in March. For regions with severe winters, the middle lane, sowing is preferable in the second half of March, but most often, to obtain an earlier flowering, petunias are sown in the first half of March or even in February (the third decade allows sowing in good years without supplementary lighting). Sowing of petunias is not carried out later in March, since the plants will not have time to reveal all their beauty and their flowering will be very late. There are many nuances in choosing the timing of sowing petunia seeds:

1. Petunias sown in the second and third decades of March bloom by June, when sown in January and February, the dates are respectively shifted to April-May, but such cultivation requires special conditions.
2. There is a variation in the recommended sowing dates and for individual varieties of petunias. Late-flowering large-flowered petunias are best sown later, in March, multiflora can be sown earlier, in February, and ampelous petunias for the largest mass of long shoots are better sown with supplementary lighting in January.
3. At any time of sowing, you should be ready, if necessary, to compensate for the lack of lighting: photophilous petunias in an unsuccessful spring without additional lighting can be completely lost (due to cloudy weather).

When purchasing seeds and planning sowing, it is always better to carry out calculations with a margin, increasing the number of seeds by 30-50%, especially if the sowing is carried out at an earlier date. Due to poor lighting, there is always a risk that only half of the seeds will sprout, although under good circumstances the germination rate of petunias is from 80 to 100%.

The main difficulty of self-growing petunia seedlings is rightly called small seeds. They are so inconvenient in work that for the first experience of growing this summer, we can recommend the choice of tape, dragee or inlaid seeds, which are much easier to sow. But working with ordinary "simple" seeds can be simplified:

• by mixing petunia seeds with sand (you need to use fine, dry, light sand, and not screenings);
• sowing on a layer of sand or snow, on which even the smallest seeds are clearly visible;
• use a toothpick for "piecewise" unfolding (this is the most time consuming option).

To sow petunias for seedlings, you must:

1. Fill the selected containers up to half or a third of the height with coarse screenings or whole substrates and tamp them lightly. If the containers are very deep or the soil is fine-grained, then it is better to lay drainage at the bottom of the container.
2. Top up the sifted substrate without tamping. Since the shelter from the crops is removed late, it is necessary to leave enough space in the containers for plant growth: from the top of the substrate to the edge of the containers for sowing petunias, a distance of 2 to 3 cm should remain.The layer of sifted soil should be at least 1 cm (so the seeds will lie more evenly, and the plants will develop equally).
3. Carefully level the soil surface and thoroughly moisten it with a fine spray. For petunias, it is sometimes recommended to water abundantly a day before sowing to evenly distribute moisture and "saturate" the soil, but the classic version can also be used. Cover the soil with sand or snow to facilitate planting if you have not taken additional measures.
4. Scatter petunia seeds as rarely as possible, trying to sow evenly over the entire area of ​​the container.
5. Spray the seeds from the top with a spray bottle, taking care that strong jets do not wash out individual seeds. For the first spraying, you can use a growth stimulant solution. When sowing on snow, spraying is not carried out.
6. Cover the container with glass or foil, without covering the seeds on top with even a thin layer of sand.

The first pick of petunia seedlings

Petunia loves stable heat. For seed germination, it is desirable to maintain the temperature at 20-23 degrees Celsius. Cooler conditions will allow only old varieties or "wild" petunias to emerge, the seeds of which are harvested on their own. All modern varieties are temperature sensitive during the germination stage.

If the lighting is not bright enough, the weather is cloudy, then phytolamps for supplementary lighting should be placed above the containers. The film or glass is lifted daily for ventilation.

Maintaining moisture is not an easy task. Before emergence, it is advisable to carry out light spraying daily in order to maintain a stable light soil moisture. A light fungicide can be added to the water for spraying seeds (for example, using a weak solution of potassium permanganate).

Petunia shoots appear (on average) 5-7 days after sowing. Petunias germinate within 2 weeks, you should not expect sprouting longer than this period: if there is no result, you need to adjust the agricultural technique and re-sowing. This summer plant is characterized by friendly shoots, usually shoots appear evenly and within a short period.

Growing plants

Petunia seedlings are very tiny, fragile, capricious and sensitive to the slightest deviations in growing conditions or moisture levels. Petunias develop slowly. Temperatures and bright lighting for small petunias are kept the same. The optimal duration of daylight hours for young seedlings is 11-12 hours.

The film or glass from the containers with petunias can be removed only after the first sheet appears. Daily ventilation is carried out 2-3 times a day, preventing the accumulation of condensation and maintaining a healthy environment for plant development.

The greatest danger during the growing stage is high humidity. Petunias are one of the most prone to black-footed diseases, therefore, waterlogging and generally inaccurate watering are extremely dangerous. But drying out of the soil can destroy all seedlings. Gentle spraying of crops is carried out daily to create stable, slightly damp conditions.

Small shoots tend to bend. The containers need to be rotated in relation to the light source several times a day so that they develop evenly (there is no need to rotate with top supplementary lighting).

Excess moisture, lack of comfortable temperatures or lighting can lead to the spread of diseases. If the seedlings show signs of the development of a black leg, the plants begin to hurt, then an emergency dive is carried out. To reduce moisture, the seedlings must be carefully sprinkled with a layer of dry sand and immediately proceed to transfer them to individual containers.

Diving seedlings and caring for young plants

In petunias, diving is carried out as soon as a pair of true leaves is formed on the plants. It is better not to delay the process of planting seedlings, but an earlier transplant is an exceptional option only for diseased plants. Plant transplant is well tolerated. They are seated one at a time. After diving, the plants are watered carefully and set for a day or two in places with diffused lighting or shaded with paper to better restore them in a new place.

Bright lighting for petunias is important at any stage of their development. Supplementary lighting on cloudy days is carried out after a dive only for a weakened one that has begun to stretch or clearly signal a lack of lighting for seedlings. The temperature can be left in the room range, but it is better to gradually start lowering it to 18-20, and then 16-18 degrees with somewhat cooler conditions at night. Both the frequency and the airing time are slowly increased even before quenching.

Top dressing for seedlings is very dangerous, they can be started only after diving - after about 1-1.5 weeks. At the stage of growing seedlings of petunias, they are carried out to obtain strong branched plants and abundant flowering. Fertilize the water for irrigation every week using half the manufacturer's standard dose. At the seedling stage, foliar and root dressings can be alternated. With slow growth, nitrogen fertilization is carried out, but petunias still prefer complex and organic fertilizers.

The main attention should be paid to high-quality and moderate watering. Waterlogging even on grown petunias is very dangerous, it can provoke the development of rot and death of plants. Watering is carried out with a small amount of water, but often checking the degree of soil drying. These neat procedures are a must for petunias to keep drips out of the greens and shoots. When it grows enough leaf mass and releases the first buds, the humidity for it can be slightly lowered.

In caring for petunia seedlings, it is better not to forget about two more procedures:

1. Pinching the shoots allows you to get dense, branched and more compact crowns in bush varieties of petunias.
2. Loosening the soil after watering will maintain optimal air and water permeability of the soil (this procedure must be carried out carefully, without touching the extensive root system of the petunia).

Transplanted petunia seedlings

For petunias, hardening should be started as early as possible. Usually, plants begin to take out at least a few hours to fresh air, as soon as the weather permits and the temperature rises during the day. Hardening from April to the moment of planting in the soil or in containers in the garden will allow you to get more resistant and hardy, lush flowering plants.

Planting petunia seedlings in soil and containers

For petunias, despite its status as a capricious queen, planting in open ground is suitable from the second half of May.It is better to wait until the return frosts stop. Sowing earlier requires a willingness to protect the plants from possible weather surprises. If petunias are planned to be grown in a container culture, then planting can be carried out already from the beginning of May: pots and baskets can always be brought into the room if necessary.

When choosing a place for petunias in the garden, it is worth staying in warm, well-lit places. In terms of resistance to cold and drafts, it is better to rely on the characteristics of a particular variety, but all petunias bloom better in protected, secluded places. Large-flowered petunias are more thermophilic and sensitive to dampness and bad weather (the smaller the size of the flower, the less capricious the petunia is). Ampel plants must be protected from the wind.

A high-quality universal substrate for growing in ampels, baskets and pots can be selected from the number of purchased soil mixtures, and mixed by yourself. The ratio of leafy, soddy soil, humus, sand and peat for petunias is not so important: the main thing is that the soil is loose, but nutritious, moisture-absorbing, but not prone to compaction. These annuals grow well with the addition of disintegrating components (for example, perlite) and a water-retaining additive in the form of a hydrogel. A high drainage layer (at least 5 cm) is laid on the bottom of any containers. For petunias, gravel, expanded clay, and other materials are suitable as drainage. A neutral soil reaction is preferred.

When planting in open ground, fertile or medium-nutritious garden soil must be checked for water permeability. Petunias prefer sandy loam and loam, but any nutrient soil is suitable for them. You can improve the quality of the soil by adding mature organic fertilizers - compost or humus. Like most annuals, petunias do not tolerate fresh manure. A serving of complete mineral fertilizers will also provide the plant with everything it needs. The reaction of the soil should not be acidic: any soil with a pH below 5.5 needs to be limed and adjusted. When planting in open ground, it is advisable to prepare the soil in advance (not from autumn, but at least a month before planting seedlings).

The distance between plants is usually limited only for petunias grown in open soil. For 1 square meter of planting area, no more than 10 petunias are used for cultivation. For multi-flowered or bush petunias, the recommended distance is from 15-20 cm for small-flowered varieties, up to 25-30 cm for large-flowered varieties. For large and ampelous petunias, a distance of 30 to 50 cm is considered the standard.For pot and ampelous plants, the distance is usually halved, although first of all, petunias are planted in containers and baskets so as to achieve the maximum decorative effect. It is better to maintain a minimum distance of 8-10 cm in any case, although general norms limit the planting density to only a maximum of 60-70 plants when planted in a container culture.

There is nothing complicated in the transplantation of petunias, the plants adapt quite easily and quickly and are not afraid of this procedure. But the fragility, juiciness of the shoots imposes its requirements on the accuracy of the work: so that the plants do not suffer from injuries, they must be handled as carefully as possible, carefully holding the green mass and avoiding unnecessary contacts. It is better to transfer the seedlings to new containers or into the ground on cloudy days or in the evening, so that the plants do not suffer from the sun and adapt faster. The transplant is always completed with abundant watering, which is carried out without affecting the leaves. It is better to mulch the soil around the plants (peat or humus is perfect). Even potted petunias love protective mulching, which also plays the role of insulation.

Calling petunias unpretentious and easy-to-grow annuals or considering them one of the most capricious plants is a very individual question. For some gardeners, they are perfectly tolerant of almost any treatment with their pets, while for others they please only with careful care.But immediately after transplanting petunia seedlings, in any case, it is worth providing careful and systematic care. Maintaining a stable soil moisture is the main point in the care of transplanted petunias. It is better to protect young plants in pots and baskets from wetting and precipitation, even if the varieties have increased resistance.

Many modern varieties have both moisture and drought resistance, they tolerate an abundance of precipitation and drying out of the soil well, but still, in the future, the more stable the conditions for plants, the better. Watering petunias growing in the soil is rare, but abundant, during periods of prolonged drought, trying not to soak the leaves and directing the water to the root. Potted plants are watered, allowing the upper and partially middle layers of the substrate to dry out, avoiding prolonged drought and dampness. On hot days, petunias need frequent watering several times a day, and it is advisable to add spraying to the care program.

Feeding for young petunias begins after the resumption of active vegetation (about a week after planting in the soil or containers. For them, a standard portion of complex fertilizers or special fertilizers for flowering summer plants is applied with a frequency of 10-15 days for plants growing in the soil and 7-10 days for potted crops Feeding for petunias growing in the soil is sometimes continued only until August, but it is better, as for potted petunias, to carry out these procedures until the end of flowering. When choosing fertilizers, you should pay attention to complex preparations with a high potassium content. top dressing can be alternated with organic fertilizers in liquid form.For potted plants, you can use long-acting fertilizers and alternate foliar and root dressings.In case of an unfortunate season, bad weather, if growth is too slow or flowering suffers, it is better to carry out additional feeding for petunias with growth stimulants.

For any potted and ampelous petunias from the beginning of flowering, it is better to introduce the removal of wilting flowers into the care program. It is especially important to promptly "clean" large-flowered or terry petunias, which look very sloppy with dry flowers. When grown in soil, wilted flowers are removed only where petunias are clearly visible - in flower girls, borders, near a recreation area, where unpleasant details are striking.

Growing petunias by sowing in open ground

Sometimes in regions with a mild climate, a much simpler method of growing from seed is used for petunias - sowing directly into the soil at the growing site. Sowing in April allows plants to bloom in mid-summer. This method is used mainly for small-flowered varieties of petunias, which are grown as a ground cover or curb plant. In regions with severe winters, sowing in greenhouses and greenhouses for seedlings is possible, but flowering will still be late.

Cutting seedlings of petunia

Terry varieties and some hybrid petunias are not propagated by seeds, but vegetatively. The non-conserved characteristics of the mother plants require a change in the strategy of growing especially valuable petunias. For cuttings, the plants are kept for the winter, and in the spring, uterine cuttings are cut from the uterine bushes. Petunia bushes winter only in bright light and cool, but not cold - the optimal temperature is from 10 to 12 degrees. They are watered very carefully. You can not save the whole plant, but cut the cuttings from the bushes and keep in the winter in similar conditions in a light substrate. After rooting in the spring, they are seated in individual containers.

Some petunias in favorable conditions and with luck with the weather in regions with a milder climate can self-seeding. Despite the variability in the quality of flowering, such "wild" petunias are striking in their endurance and unpretentiousness, and often also in the size of the bushes.Young seedlings can be used as seedlings or left as semi-wild, abundantly flowering accents.

Today I propose to consider such a topic as growing petunias. I know firsthand that many cannot grow it at home for seedlings. And so they plant, and so, but it does not germinate and that's it. This is especially true of varietal plants, which are not sold so cheaply, and in a package there are only a maximum of 10 pieces.

And it's not cheap to buy ready-made seedlings for planting in the garden. One bush can cost 25 or 35 rubles, and even more, depending on the variety. I would like to buy it in different types, varieties and colors; to plant in a flower bed, in flowerpots, and in pots ... No money will be enough to buy everything. Therefore, it is better to learn how to plant it with seeds yourself.

The popularity of this plant is simply colossal. Whoever you come to the summer cottage, everyone can boast of their plants. And their appearance is simply amazing. From the simplest - humble pink and white flowers to huge double color-saturated buds.

And how beautiful does it look on the balcony, or the windowsill in a city apartment ?! You look, and you get great aesthetic pleasure.

Recently, in all cities, great attention has been paid to improvement. Many trees, shrubs, and of course flowers are planted. And beauties - petunias can be found in every flower bed, in every flowerpot. By the middle of summer, they are so proliferating and blooming that they look just great. They are fragrant with their delicate, subtle aroma and invariably attract the eye. And thus they will bloom and delight us until the frost.

So today we will talk about planting this most popular plant. After all, in fact, planting seeds is not at all difficult. There are only a few small secrets, which will be discussed below.

Petunia - plant description

It is an annual plant native to South America. Where it was discovered by the Swedish botanist Lamarck. The name comes from the Brazilian word "petun", which means "tobacco". It belongs to the nightshade family. The plant got to Europe at the beginning of the 19th century, where it began to be successfully cultivated. And a hundred years ago, the first hybrids of the variety began to appear.

The plant looks like a creeping or erect bush, 20 to 70 cm high.

Its root system is pivotal and weakly branched. That is, the roots do not go deep into the ground.

The most notable of the plant are, of course, the beautiful flowers. They are solitary in petunias, funnel-shaped, expanding upward in the form of a bell. They are located in the axils of the leaves. They can be either very simple or terry with a wavy or fringed edge.

The flowers usually have a subtle delicate scent.

Their coloring is full of variety. Among them there are both monochromatic and multi-colored, including those with different edging. It is very difficult to describe the beauty of this plant and its flowers. Of course, it's better to see her with your own eyes. It is no coincidence that this type of garden flowers attracts the attention of all gardeners and florists so much.

The fruit of the plant has the form of a box, which can contain up to 300 seeds of a very small size.

Varieties and varieties of petunias

All petunias are divided into multi-flowered and large-flowered.

The first of them bloom earlier and have many flowers on one bush with a diameter of about 5 cm. As a rule, there are a lot of them, and flowering continues until late autumn. Plants are not afraid of light frost, and they are resistant to rain. They are not whimsical or capricious.

The latter have fewer flowers, but he himself is much larger. These plants are more whimsical, they do not like rain, which damages delicate petals. Therefore, they are usually grown on terraces and balconies.

Also, all petunias differ in bush, ampel and cascade

• among the bush representatives, you can find both small compact varieties and long shrubs. The size of the flowers of the former reaches 4 - 5 cm, while in the latter they can be up to 15 cm in diameter, which is simply amazing.

They are bush-shaped, and are usually planted in a flower bed.

The most popular varieties are Milliflora, with flowers up to 4 cm; "Multiflora" - with flowers up to 7 cm; and "Grandiflora" - with flowers up to 15 cm.

• Ampel varieties are also called "creeping". They do not grow up, but down. As a rule, their shoots are very long. And therefore they are ideal for planting in hanging planters, or containers. Although, they can often be found in flower beds. They love the sun very much and bloom well under its rays.

There are a lot of varieties in this category, but the most popular is the Easy Wave variety. It is very easy to grow and care for. Scourges can reach up to 1 meter in length, and the flowers themselves have a variety of colors and bloom well until the frost itself.

Petunia "Easy Wave" has many hybrid varieties.

The varieties that are equally popular and beloved by the people include such as Surfinia. This plant is perfectly adapted to unfavorable weather conditions. It develops very quickly and grows beautifully. Its lashes grow up to 70 cm in length. The flowers have a rich color range. The plant is also very fond of sunny places, but in extreme cases it can grow in partial shade.

• Cascading petunias also have rather long shoots that grow not only down, but also to the sides and up. Therefore, they are very fond of using them in landscape design.

One of the favorite cultivars to grow is the Picotee cultivar. The bushes grow up to 25 cm in length and have many large bright flowers with white edging on the petals. She is not afraid of rains and has a long flowering time.

The next cultivar to pay attention to is Polaris. The flowers are also amazingly beautiful, with contrasting white stripes on the petals. This annual is not afraid of bad weather, and is equally resistant to frost, rain and wind. It grows fast enough, and reaches a length of 30 cm. It blooms for a long time and richly.

And so, bush varieties are better suited for flower beds, and ampelous and cascading varieties are better for vases and pots. However, for planting plants on a balcony, or loggia, cascading varieties are preferred.

What is the difference between cascade petunia and ampelous

Sometimes not everyone can figure out what is the difference between ampelous varieties and cascading ones. Let's dwell on this in more detail.

Cascading varieties differ from ampelous varieties primarily in that their shoots are longer and curly. At the same time, plants grow not only down, like ampelous, but also up and to the sides. That is, they need more space and space in pots for growth and development.

It is better to grow such plants in hanging pots, where growth in all directions will be ensured.

Pay attention to the variety "Jokonda" (La Gioconda). An adult plant has shoots up to 1 meter in length, while its height reaches 20 cm, which is quite a lot. At the same time, the flowers have a rich palette of colors - purple, pink, scarlet, red, orange ...

Another variety is also very good and is often grown in flower beds. The stems of the plant are very long, creeping, and they also grow in all directions and upward. That allows you to fill the space in the garden up to 2 square meters. meters. And if such a plant is regularly fed, then the number of flowers and the time of their flowering will simply amaze you. This variety is called "Taifun" (Typhoon). Apparently the name for it was not chosen by chance.

And so, we got a little acquainted with the review, varieties and varieties of petunias. All this will help you decide on the choice of the variety and the correct planting and cultivation in the future.

How to properly grow petunia seedlings from seeds

Not everyone grows petunias on their own due to the fact that they do not want to bother too much with seedlings. And some also because attempts to do this have turned out to be unsuccessful all the time. Therefore, they prefer to buy ready-made seedlings in the store. But as mentioned above, when the planting season begins, the price of this plant is very, very high.

Therefore, they buy their favorite plant, but in very small quantities. Having dropped it in a flowerpot, or two, they always think about having even more such flowerpots!

But the planting process is not at all difficult. You can even say that it is easy. Therefore, it is better to grow the planting material yourself. And even those varieties that you want. And not those that were raised on a massive scale.

The only thing that must always be considered when planting these garden flowers is that the seeds germinate for a long time, as well as the seedlings grow and get stronger. Therefore, in order to see plants in flowers already in June, you should plant seeds for seedlings at the end of January, and in the southern regions at the end of February.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to do this.

When to plant seeds for seedlings according to the lunar calendar

For all gardeners and truck farmers, the lunar calendar is the best guide for planting certain plants. After all, everyone already knows that favorable landing days depend on one or another phase of the moon.

And if you are guided by the lunar calendar, then everyone should also know that neither crops nor planting should be done on full moon days. And we have them in 2018 on January 31 and March 2, and in February there is no full moon. And also you should not do this during the new moon, which in 2018 falls on January 17 (which is still too early for planting in any case), as well as on February 16 and March 17.

The lunar calendar advises us to do landings

• 7, 8, 21 and 22 February
• 1, 7, 8, 9, 10, 13, 14, 15 March
• April 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 26, 27, 28

In April, although it is already a little late for planting seeds, it is high time for picking and replanting.

By the way, on the days of the full moon and new moon, it is also not recommended to do other work with seedlings, and even water it.

Of course, this information is only recommended. And everyone for himself is determined with the timing of planting. To test how the lunar calendar works, you can plant several trial versions. Fix the time of planting, and subsequently follow how these or those specimens develop.

Seed preparation for sowing

1. The first thing to think about before planting any plants is the soil. For our today's "beauty", neutral or slightly acidic soil is best suited.

For this, many take ordinary garden soil, treat it with a solution of potassium permanganate and mix it with special soil for seedlings bought in a store. At the same time, there are special mixtures for flowers. Also suitable are universal mixtures that are used for planting vegetable and berry crops.

You can also prepare soil from one part of the sod land from the garden, one part of sand and two parts of humus and peat.

2. The next thing to think about is preparing containers for planting. There are several options for this.

• You can use a special plastic box with a lid used for growing seedlings. Someone puts in an ordinary plastic cake box. In this case, you need to provide shelter for the box to create a greenhouse effect. At first, the box can be covered with ordinary glass or a plastic bag.

Thus, you can plant not very whimsical plants with good germination.

• For more delicate creatures, there is another method of sowing - in peat tablets. The method is excellent, with 100% germination.

3. Seed preparation. Currently, seeds are sold mostly in granules. These are very convenient to plant at a certain, predetermined distance.Their only drawback is that there are quite a few of them in one sold package. Especially for varietal plants.

And many people collect the seeds themselves. One of those boxes that can be found in abundance on flower bushes. They are very small. One gram contains about 3000 - 5000 thousand pieces. And it is clear that such sowing will be more difficult. Rather, sowing them is not so difficult, but then, when picking, you will have to work hard.

These seeds are best mixed with sand before planting. Therefore, prepare it in advance.

Next, we will consider the landing methods in more detail.

Features of sowing seeds for seedlings in plastic boxes

And so we have the land ready and the containers for planting ready. What to do next?

1. The day before planting, the planting container should be filled with a mixture of earth. Sprinkle it abundantly with some kind of fungicide for disinfection and for the prevention of root rot and black leg disease. At home, a solution of potassium permanganate is usually diluted, and treated with it.

2. The next day, thoroughly loosen the soil. It should be damp. Take out part of the earth, and tamp the rest with a ruler, carefully trimming all edges and the entire surface.

3. Then add the soil that was taken out of the box. Some especially pedantic gardeners prefer to sift it additionally.

The sieved layer should be at least 2, but not more than 4 cm.

It also needs to be leveled and tamped lightly with a ruler. This is necessary so that the seeds lay on the surface evenly, and also germinate evenly.

The thing is that petunia seeds are not embedded in the ground, but sown on the surface. Therefore, when planting, there should not be any voids and sinuses on the soil, where the seed would fall and fall. If it falls under the ground, it is unlikely to germinate.

4. When the soil is prepared, seeds are sprinkled into it in an even layer. At the same time, they can first be poured into a sheet folded in half and sprinkled from it in small portions.

In order for the shell to dissolve quickly, it must be sprayed with water at room temperature from a spray bottle. In this case, the water jet will not only melt the shell, but also slightly press down the seeds in the soil.

5. Planting seeds in the snow is also a great way. That is, on top of the soil, you need to lay out a fairly thick layer of snow, about 5 centimeters thick. Then scatter the seeds directly over the snow. This method is good for a number of undoubted advantages:

• on the snow, the accuracy of the layout is better visible. And you can add somewhere if in some part of the seeds there is not enough
• while the snow melts, it will completely dissolve the shell in which the seeds are placed
• the snow will lightly press down the seeds and press them into the soil just as much as necessary

6. At first, the greenhouse effect is important. Therefore, be sure to cover the planting container with a lid, glass or bag.

7. Then place the containers in a warm, well-lit place. In winter, there is little light, and in this case, special lamps are used for lighting. Every day, in the morning and in the evening, the lid must be opened to allow air access and ventilate the containers.

The ideal temperature for seed germination is 24 - 25 degrees. Seedlings should appear in about a week.

If a cold snap is expected at night, then put additional insulation between the window and the box.

8. When shoots appear, the lid will need to be removed more often, first removing it for 20 minutes, then for 30 and so on. The temperature regime can also be reduced. During the day up to 20 degrees, and at night up to 16.

9. When the seedlings grow up to 1 cm in height, the cover can be removed completely.

10. Water at first the soil, and then the seedlings are better from a spray bottle, or through a pallet. Alternatively, you can water along the sides of the box. It is impossible to transfuse seedlings.

11. One to two weeks after the emergence of seedlings, you can make the first top dressing. To do this, it is enough to spray them with a very weak solution of potassium permanganate.And after the appearance of 3 - 4 true leaves, you can feed the plants with a solution of "Kristalon". To do this, it must be diluted in a bucket of water in the amount of one tablespoon. The solution must be poured into the soil in the amount required for irrigation.

How to plant plants in peat tablets

Varietal terry petunias can be planted very conveniently and quickly in peat tablets. The method is certainly more expensive, but germination in this case tends to 100%. I use this method to germinate expensive seeds.

To do this, we need directly the peat tablets themselves and a convenient container where we will prepare them for planting. For tablets, you can buy a special mini greenhouse, or you can use a regular cake box. Or any other plastic container where you can install and soak these tablets.

1. First, the tablets should be placed in a prepared container.

2. Then fill them with water. At first, the rather flat tablets will begin to grow in size, taking on the appearance of a kind of small pot. Outside, each of them is covered with a shell that will prevent it from expanding in breadth. Subsequently, this shell can be removed. This is done when diving to allow the roots to grow unhindered in all directions.

In principle, the shell can be left, especially if the roots have already sprouted outward. And transplant right with her. It is very thin and looks like a mesh. And in no way interferes with the growth of roots.

The tablet should triple upwards. As the water is absorbed, it can be added, allowing them to grow further.

3. When the tablets have reached the correct size, remove the seeds. They, as a rule, are in cones and are covered with a special soluble shell, which, as they say, contains the necessary complex of micronutrients. Open one of them and prepare a toothpick. We will plant seeds for her. Pour them into a small saucer.

4. A toothpick should be soaked in water, then pick up one of the seeds and put it right in the center. It is not necessary to press down and cover it with earth. It should be clearly visible and in no case buried. In this way, lay out all the seeds.

5. In the first week, the seeds do not need to be watered. Our makeshift pots are quite saturated with moisture. You just need to create a greenhouse effect, and for this you need to cover the box with a lid. She should be in this state all this time. Moisture will form under the surface of the lid, then the drops will fall down, and this watering should be enough.

6. Place the mini greenhouse in a warm, well-lit place. The ideal temperature would be 24 degrees.

7. In the morning and in the evening, the greenhouse must be opened for a short time, for 2 - 3 minutes for ventilation. After 4 - 5 days, provided that it is warm enough, the first shoots may appear. And in 7 - 8 days they should all appear. This is provided that you have purchased good seeds.

8. After a week, the first watering can be done by adding a little warm water to the pan. Then keep the seedlings for another week under a lid. At the same time, when airing, see if the ground becomes dryish, then you can again add water to the pan, or spray the soil from a spray bottle.

9. In two weeks the sprouts have already grown and extended. It's time to remove the top cover. Then grow in the same way as ordinary seedlings until the moment of picking.

Video on how to plant a petunia in a "snail"

Since we have already started talking to you about different ways of planting petunias, you cannot miss such a new and interesting way as planting in a "snail". No, of course, we will not literally plant in a snail, it's just the way it is called. By the way, it is also used when planting lobelia, other flowers with small seeds and remontant strawberries.

Therefore, this method may interest you as well.

I myself have never planted plants in this way. But I watched the germination in the video. Basically, it's pretty good.

Note that Epin is used for germination. Apparently it contributes to such good germination.

Whether you will plant like this or not, I do not know. But as a way, it will probably be interesting for you. In any case, take note of it.

Seedling care before planting in open ground

And so, the seeds have been planted, and they are already beginning to germinate in our country. Now it is important to preserve them and grow them to the state and time when we can transplant them into the ground.

Until that time, they should be looked after, fed, properly watered, dived and pruned. And also to fight diseases, if any. This will be discussed in the next article.

Immediately at the beginning of the article, I will touch on the topic of watering. As has been said more than once today, over-watering should be avoided. Also, delicate and small leaves in the growing phase also do not like excess water and it is not recommended to water it on the leaves.

Therefore, small seedlings are watered in several interesting ways.

• through the pallet
• along the very edge of the planting tank
• using a syringe without a needle
• with a rubber pear, directly deepening it into the soil

That is, any method is good, as long as it does not affect the leaves.

How and when to dive plants

Petunias dive just like other plants. That is, they are transplanted into larger containers, each plant in a separate pot.

Although, if you immediately planted them in separate cups, then a pick is not needed. But for the most part, there is no way to plant everything at once in separate containers, so such plants grow all together. And when they have 2 - 3 pairs of true leaves, it is time to replant them.

For a pick, separate small cups must be prepared. It is necessary to make holes in the bottom so that there is no stagnation of water. They need to be filled with the same soil in which the seeds were sown. Using an old screwdriver handle, or a small stick, make a hole in the center of the pot with the earth, where we will transplant the seedlings.

On the eve of transplanting, all seedlings should be watered for easier extraction from the soil during transplantation, and so as not to damage the roots.

First of all, we plant strong and large seedlings in prepared glasses. To do this, carefully remove them from the common box, lightly shake off excess soil. During this, all the roots are slightly straightened and lowered down. And in this form, we lower them into the hole of the glass prepared in advance.

It is not necessary to deepen the plant. As well as tamping. In the first case, you can damage the roots and disrupt the usual "standard of living" of the plant. In the second case, oxygen will cease to reach the roots.

Weak plants are usually discarded. Their development has already been slowed down, and they are unlikely to catch up with their more successful and strong brethren.

After transplanting, forget to water the plants.

It is better to feed the seedlings 7 to 10 days after the pick. Top dressing is best done with a preparation for strengthening and growing roots.

Do I need to pinch and prune plants

To form a beautiful bush, a method such as pinching is used. When and how is it used?

When the main shoot grows very quickly on the seedling and does not allow lateral shoots to develop, then the main trunk of the plant is pinched for uniform development. Two - three, or even four leaves are removed in the place where the so-called "growth point" is located. It is either pinched by hand or cut with scissors.

As a result of this procedure, new shoots will form from the axils of each leaf. And also the lateral shoots that have already appeared will grow more actively. Subsequently, each of them can also be pinched. In this case, the formed bush will not look like a long single lash, but will turn out to be lush. And the main bonus will be that it will have a lot more flowers.

Pruning can also be done for the plant.It is needed when one or several of the lateral shoots are ahead of others in growth. This happens when the plant does not have enough sunlight, and only the shoot that receives it most grows. In this case, they are simply cut and trimmed with the rest, counting approximately by the number of leaves.

However, pinching is not always necessary. If the plant forms evenly, and along with the main shoot, the lateral ones also develop well, then in this case, let the plant grow further on its own.

Timing and feeding of plants

When we dived seedlings, and each plant acquired its own house, you can think about real feeding. During this period, leaf growth is especially important. Through them, more sunlight enters the plant itself and the roots, and more nutrients are carried along with it.

Therefore, at this stage, of course, vitamins and nitrogenous fertilizers are needed, as well as small additions of phosphorus and potassium. If you visit any store from the category "Garden, vegetable garden", then there you can find a huge number of drugs needed in this direction. You can buy such a complex fertilizer as Florin and water the plants with them in accordance with the instructions on the package, namely 1 ml per 1 liter of water.

Or use such drugs as "Uniflor", "Ideal" and others. And if you do not find either one or the other, then ask for help from a sales consultant who will advise you on the necessary fertilizer in this class.

Water the plants sparingly. Remember that excessive watering can lead to disease in seedlings.

After a week, dilute the solution again, but in an even lower concentration, and spray the plants with it from above.

When the leaves grow, then it is worth feeding the roots. And for this we already need phosphate fertilizers. And potassium is responsible for flowering, therefore, when the flower enters the flowering phase, it is necessary to feed with its use.

For this, Agricola or Kemira Lux is suitable, or other similar fertilizers, which are currently sold in sufficient quantities.

Plant diseases and control

If you properly prepared the soil, and also properly looked after the seedlings, then it will grow and gain strength from day to day, delighting you with its green appearance. But if something is missed somewhere, then the plants can get sick.

The most common disease is a fungus called Blackleg. When the plant has not yet matured, has begun to grow and itself has a thin long leg and not very developed upper leaves, then it is very vulnerable to such a disease. It looks so that the stem at the base of the earth begins to rot at first, and then the plant simply falls.

This disease is often caused by abundant watering and high humidity. When the plant receives little light and heat under such conditions.

Or, when the land was simply not treated with potassium permanganate or other fungicide before planting.

In case of infection, diseased plants must be removed immediately so that infection does not occur to others. And also shed the soil with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, or 40% formalin solution. There is also a method in which calcined and sifted sand is sprinkled around the roots.

Another common problem is chlorosis, or iron deficiency. It lies in the fact that the leaves begin to turn yellow. All of them, or partially, can turn yellow. To cope with this problem will help iron-containing drugs, such as "Ferovit", containing iron chelate.

A spider mite can also settle on seedlings. In this case, a cobweb appears on the plants, and the plant itself begins to slowly wither. To get rid of the tick will help such drugs as "Actellik", "Neoron" or "Fitoverm".

And also sometimes amateur gardeners themselves make such stupid mistakes that lead to plant diseases. For example, they water them with the remains of tea, or "meat", or "milk" water.

Thus, mold appears on the soil, which does not allow the sprouts to develop normally, and leads to their death. And if they water it even before the seedlings appear, then they may not wait for them.

When and how you can plant petunia in open ground

So, our plants have already become large enough, and some of them even bloomed, which is incredibly pleasing. And on the street there are more and more warm and fine days. So it's time to think about how to take them out into the fresh air and gradually prepare them for planting in open ground.

But for starters, the seedling pots can be transferred to a greenhouse, or a greenhouse. Depending on the weather, this can be done as early as May. And in warm areas even in April.

If the nights are still cold, then at night the plants can be covered with a covering material, making something like a small greenhouse in a greenhouse. In the afternoon, remove the material. Thus, we will temper our plants a little. Two weeks after the night shelters, you don't have to worry about the seedlings, they have already adapted and will not freeze now.

Watering and feeding during this period is carried out in the same way as during care in the house.

When the time comes for planting plants in open ground, it is better to do this in the evening. It is not so hot at night, and the plant will be able to recover slightly and gain strength during this time.

Plants should be planted at a depth of at least 10 cm.If you are planting small-flowered plants, then the distance between the plants should be 18 - 20 cm.If you are planting large-flowered varieties of petunias, then the distance should be slightly increased, namely, plant seedlings at a distance of 23 - 25 cm. from friend. Ampel varieties are planted at a distance of 28 - 30 cm.

The timing of planting seedlings directly depends on the climatic zone where you live. In the southern regions of our country, it is planted starting in April. And where it is cooler, you can plant in the middle or even the end of May.

Before planting, it is necessary to dig up or loosen the soil, apply organic fertilizer and water the soil well. Try not to damage the roots, and place them in the hole so that they do not stick out to the sides and up. Do this carefully and with great love and care for the plant.

Petunia is such a beautiful and delicate plant that you want to take care of and you want to admire it. What we basically do when we grow bushes from the smallest seed to a fragrant large bush covered with flowers.

And she tries to give us all the best that she has. And pleases us with its magnificent flowers all summer and part of autumn.

And I hope that thanks to today's article you will find answers to all questions related to planting seeds and caring for the sprouts of this beautiful plant. And you will have many plants that will delight you too.

Great landings and a whole sea of ​​beautiful flowers!

Author of the publication

0 Comments: 2657Publications: 456Registration: 04-09-2015

Over time, each grower comes to his own method of sowing seeds for seedlings. However, there are some basic rules you need to know. They are also used when growing petunias.

After sowing seeds at the end of February - March, the containers should be covered with foil or glass. Better yet, use a non-woven covering material for this. It not only protects the seedlings from temperature extremes, but also allows air and moisture to pass through.

Where to grow seedlings?

From sowing to the appearance of the first shoots, as a rule, it takes 5-7 days. It is during this period that it is very important to adhere to the thermal and light regimes. To do this, you need to choose the right place to place containers. It should be light, but direct sunlight should not fall on the soil with seeds all day. Therefore, containers need to be periodically shaded from the sun. If the place is not sufficiently lit, then you can use the backlighting lamps.

Petunia seedlings need sunlight for good growth.

Temperature and humidity

Temperature the content of the sowing plates should be 22-24 ° C. At low temperatures, modern hybrids will not germinate, and at high temperatures they can get sick. When seedlings appear, the daytime temperature should be lowered to 18-20 ° C, and at night to 14-16 ° C. If the containers were covered with non-woven material, then it is time to remove it. The glass and film must be removed gradually: first, open the crops daily for a while, gradually increasing this interval. At first, it is enough to open the container for 10 minutes a day. You can completely remove the glass or film when the first real leaves appear.

Humidity and watering

In the first week, the seeds should to water 1-2 times a day. It is desirable with settled water at room temperature with the addition of potassium permanganate (light pink solution). It is also important to maintain a certain humidity level (for granulated seeds - 98%, for ordinary seeds - 95%).

It is important to water the petunias in moderation, because when waterlogged, the plants risk getting sick with a black leg. This is manifested by the thinning of the leg at the base and the collapse of the plants. When a disease occurs, you need to stop spraying, and water only along the walls of the container. The soil in the places of the disease should be sprinkled with dry sand or wood ash. The main way to combat this disease in seedlings is to remove healthy plants from sick ones.

Top dressing petunias

A week after the emergence of seedlings, you can feed the petunia - water it with mineral fertilizers. They should be brought in no more than 1 time in 10 days. In case of poor germination, seedlings should be sprayed with a plant growth stimulator, but no more than twice during the growing period.

When to dive seedlings?

It's time to pick plants when they have two real leaves. This is approximately the 3-4th week from the day of sowing petunia seeds. But you can also resort to early picking at the stage of cotyledons. This is especially worth doing when a black leg appears. The mixture for picking plants should be richer than when planting. You can add 1/5 of humus to it, and even better - granular fertilizer of long duration.

Petunia is ready for picking about a month after sowing.

Transplant plants need to be in pots or special containers with a diameter of 6-7 cm or more. It is important not to forget to make holes in the bottom to eliminate excess moisture. After filling the containers, the mixture should be slightly pressed down and sprayed with water. Seedlings must be transferred into holes 1.5 cm deep and 2 cm wide. They should be transplanted together with a lump of earth.

When transplanting, you need to ensure that the cotyledons are slightly above the mixture level. Next, you should choose a bright place for seedlings. After the appearance of three pairs of real leaves, you need pinch the top... After 12-14 weeks from the day of sowing the seeds, the seedlings of petunias are ready for transplanting into open ground (May-June).

Growing petunia seedlings correctly, you will enjoy the bloom of these magnificent flowers all summer.