How to properly grow and care for cucumbers?

Taking proper care of your cucumbers is actually easier than it seems at first glance, and does not take a lot of time. Key items include watering, weeding, tying, pinching, and feeding.

Planting and caring for cucumbers requires certain skills, knowledge and skills. The basics of how to properly care for cucumbers will be discussed below.

How to prepare seeds for planting

You can plant cucumbers directly in open ground or in dishes for pre-growing seedlings. Growing seedlings from seeds is a painstaking job. So that the seeds are viable and full-fledged, they must be large and good weight, they should also be looked after correctly.

The seeds are preliminarily treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, after which they are placed in warm clean water for 20 minutes. Poor quality seeds usually float to the surface and can be removed very easily. This can be done 12 hours before planting seeds in the ground. An important measure of seed preparation is to warm them up. For this, a bag with seeds is suspended from a battery or placed in a room where the temperature does not drop below 20 ° C. Such heating will increase the resistance of plants to various diseases and pests.

Remaining seeds can be sown into the ground immediately or germinated for 2 days in peat or wet sawdust. Such germination is an additional selection of low-quality seed. Seeds can be germinated at a temperature of 12-13 ° C.

Planting seeds into the ground is carried out to a depth of 2 cm. If you decide to sow seeds directly into the ground, it should be borne in mind that cucumbers can grow a lot, so it is not recommended to sow them too often. In each hole, you can sow 1-2 seeds, the distance between the holes is 8-10 cm. It is recommended to make the distance between the rows at least 60 cm, so it will be easier to care for and harvest them.

Growing seedlings

You can grow cucumbers from seedlings. As the seedlings begin grow in advance at home, you can get the harvest much earlier.

This method of growing can create some difficulties: the roots of cucumber seedlings are very thin and fragile, therefore, in order for a young plant to take root, it is necessary to replant with a large earthen clod.

If you decide to resort to growing cucumber seedlings, it is best to resort to the use of peat pots. They have a specially porous wall, which provides good oxygen and liquid access to the soil layers in which the seedling roots are located. The advantage of this pot serves the fact that the seedlings can be transferred into the soil directly with it, without removing the roots and without risking damage to them. Once in the ground, the root system will grow freely through the walls. Such pots do not contain toxic substances, pathogens, and have sufficient mechanical strength.

You can also use boxes, juice or milk bags, plastic or paper cups as containers. Not recommended for this purpose use plastic containers for fermented milk products. They can retain lactic acid bacteria, which are pests of the root system in cucumbers and lead to the development of serious diseases and plant death.

Features of caring for cucumbers in the greenhouse

Proper care of cucumbers in a greenhouse and in the open air has some differences:

1. Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse is carried out 1 month earlier than in an open-air garden.
2. Pinching of the main lash in the greenhouse is carried out somewhat later than in an open bed - after the lash reaches the height of the trellis and bends over it. Greenhouse cucumbers are tied to a trellis with twine.
3. Correct pinching of greenhouse cucumbers is carried out according to the following scheme: shoots and buds are removed from the first two sinuses, shoots are left in the next six. When these shoots reach a length of 20 cm, they must be pinched. The next shoots are pinched upon reaching a length of 40-50 cm. The main stem is pinched no earlier than it becomes higher than the length of the trellis.
4. For cultivation and care of cucumbers in greenhouses, it is better to give preference to self-pollinated varieties - this will increase yields. Those varieties that are pollinated by insects are best planted outdoors.
5. When preparing the greenhouse, disinfection of the soil and risers is mandatory. In the fall, all waste must be removed from the greenhouse and treated with a solution of bleach. For its preparation, 40 of the drug is diluted in 12 liters of water and the resulting solution is infused for 2 hours, after which it must be filtered and can be used.
6. In spring, the soil in the greenhouse must be treated with a hot solution of manganese at the rate of 3 g of powder per 10 liters of water. For this purpose, you can use a special drug Inta-vir.
7. In sunny weather, it is recommended to ventilate the greenhouses, but at the same time avoiding drafts. It also allows insects to pollinate the plants.

Use greenhouses possible in areas where the climate is cool enough for growing cucumbers. In addition, you can use greenhouses for growing cucumbers during the cold season - in winter and early spring. In warm regions, you can plant cucumbers in open ground in May - June.

Soil preparation

Cucumbers can be grown in almost any soil where there is sufficient drainage and aeration. However, with proper care, the richest crops can be harvested on humus-rich soils.

1. It is better to give preference to plots of land where cucumbers, pumpkins, squash and zucchini have not previously grown. This will prevent the accumulation and development of diseases and pests. A change of location can be made at least once every 5 years.
2. For a good harvest, cucumbers must be constantly and properly fed. Organic fertilizers are best suited for this, which help to improve the structure of the soil.
3. Prepare cucumber beds in advance. It is best to choose a warm and well-lit place for sowing. The site is dug up to 27 cm in depth and manure or humus is introduced in the amount of 1 bucket per square meter.
4. For the next 2-3 years, organic fertilizing should not be applied, only mineral fertilizers are enough.
5. The bed should be pre-treated with a solution of copper sulfate. It is prepared at the rate of 1 tablespoon of the drug per 10 liters of water. For 1 sq. m of the garden, 1 liter of the resulting solution is consumed.
6. All waste and plant debris, including old roots, must be removed from the site in the fall.
7. Before digging up the bed, it is treated with superphosphate and ash or dolomite flour. After that, the site is left until spring.

In the spring, before sowing cucumbers, for each square meter of the plot, 1 bucket of manure humus, peat, sawdust, a glass of ash are introduced. After that, the site is dug to the depth of the bayonet shovel.

Before planting, the soil must be insulated. To do this, the soil is leveled and watered with hot water at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 sq. meter. You can water the garden bed with a weak solution of manganese or sodium humate. The bed is covered with a film before sowing.

The sowing time of cucumbers must be calculated in such a way that the seedlings are not exposed to frost. Sprouted seeds in cold soil can rot.

Watering and feeding

To get sweet and tasty fruits, cucumbers need to be watered regularly and thoroughly. With a lack of moisture, they will become bitter.

Watering the cucumbers is not necessary at the roots, but by moistening the soil around the stem. It is not recommended to pour with a strong stream from a hose; it is better to use a watering can for this purpose. It is better to take water for irrigation warmed up to 20-23 ° С, since colder water contributes to hypothermia and decay of plants. Ideal for watering cucumbers barrels and other containers with water are placed in the sun so that it has time to warm up. With a lack of soil moisture, the leaves of cucumbers begin to fade.

If water seeps into the soil poorly during irrigation, you can make several punctures in the soil with a fork. With significant drying out, it is necessary to water the soil in several steps.

During the mass ripening of pilaf, it is necessary to water the plant especially carefully, you can do it every other day.

At the end of summer, watering should be reduced somewhat, as excessively moist cold soil leads to damage to the root system by rot.

During watering, you can simultaneously feed the vegetable crop. It is best to do this in the evening, when the sun is not baking so much. It is not recommended to allow drops of wildness to fall on the leaves, so as not to cause burns.

1. The subcortex is produced once every 10 days. To make top dressing, you can take a liter of thick manure and dissolve it in 10 liters of water. The resulting mixture is added 25-30 grams of ammonium nitrate or urea, everything is thoroughly mixed. 4 cucumber bushes account for 1 liter of the resulting liquid.
2. At the beginning of the flowering of cucumbers, 50 grams of potassium salt and superphosphate can be added to the solution described above.
3. During the period of active flowering, you can add zinc sulfate in the amount of 100 mg, manganese sulfate in the amount of 400 mg or boric acid in the amount of 500 mg to the top dressing.
4. At the beginning of the fruiting period, the amount of superphosphate and potassium salt can be increased to 60 grams per bucket.

After finishing feeding, the soil around the bush is watered with water, so that the fertilizer is well absorbed and the plant did not receive chemical burns.

Garter cucumbers and the formation of lashes

Caring for cucumbers and the formation of a cucumber whip often raises a lot of questions for novice gardeners. However, if this issue is not given due attention, impassable thickets can turn out in the greenhouse or on the garden bed, and the yield can be significantly reduced. In addition, such an overgrowth is fraught with the development of diseases or pest infestation.

Formation of a cucumber lash consists of three consecutive stages:

1. At the first stage, all shoots and buds are removed from the axils of the first three leaves. This process is called blinding. If this procedure is not done, the plant forms many ovaries, which will negatively affect its growth and development and, ultimately, reduce the yield of the bush.
2. The second stage involves the removal of all lateral shoots on the main stem. On the shoot site from 50 cm to 1 meter, 1 leaf is left on the side shoot. Further, until the end of the entire lash, only 3 sheets are left.
3. The third stage includes pinching on 1 leaf of all lateral shoots of the second order.

The higher the plant, the more fruit is left on it. When the height of the main stem reaches the height of the trellis and exceeds it, the top is pinched and thrown onto the trellis... This stage is the final one in the formation of the lash..

In addition to the basic shaping procedure, it is necessary to inspect the plants weekly and remove any yellowed or diseased leaves and shoots. It is best to do this in the morning, then by the evening the wounds on the shoots will have time to dry out.

To tie ground cucumbers, you can use the following techniques:

1. Along the edges of each row of cucumbers, it is fixed on a wooden or metal peg about 1.5 meters high. A wire, cord or twine is pulled between them.
2. You can buy ready-made tapestries in specialized stores.
3. After the cucumber lash reaches the desired length, it is carefully lifted and tied to a cord or wire.
4. It is very important to ensure that your cucumber beds are not exposed to cold winds or drafts and are located in a sunny, warm area for the maximum amount of time.
5. Tall plants (such as corn) can be planted around the perimeter of the cucumber patch. These plants provide good protection from cold and wind. You can plant the corn in several rows.

If the cucumbers on the trellis grow in the sun and are not shaded by anything, they begin to ripen much faster. Besides, harvest with tied lashes is much easier and more convenient.

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Cucumbers are a popular vegetable in our country, so every gardener, regardless of the size of the plot, likes to grow cucumbers in his garden. But even with the same climatic characteristics, the yield is different for everyone. The whole secret lies in the care when growing cucumbers, it is necessary to plant according to the rules.

If you follow the correct agricultural techniques, plant according to the advice regarding the predecessor crops and take care of it properly, then it will not be difficult for a beginner to get a good harvest even from seeds.

Basic requirements for growing cucumbers in the open field

In general, caring for a culture cannot be called difficult, but taking into account the climate of regional characteristics, there are many nuances that you need to know.

The basic requirements for growing cucumbers include:

• to plant are selected only healthy seeds, trained;
• the soil to sow must be loose and slightly acidic;
• planting of seeds and seedlings is carried out at a strictly allotted time in compliance with the temperature regime;
• during the growing season 3-4 weeding and loosening soil;
• the beds are regularly watered with warm water (10-14 liters per 1 m2);
• fertilizers and fertilizing are introduced according to the schedule, the rates of nutrient consumption cannot be changed;
• the beds should be located on the sunny side, but not in a draft;
• when planting seedlings, avoid thickening;
• timely control the condition of plants and the degree of soil moisture;
• in case of identified problems, instantly carry out the processing of the culture.

Cucumber beds should be located on the north side

Growing methods

There are quite a few options for growing greenery. Among the most well-known methods: in the open field, in a greenhouse, on a balcony, in a barrel, etc.

When cultivating a vegetable in open beds, the method of seeding and planting seedlings is used.

How to plant seeds in the garden

It is necessary to sow seeds at certain temperature indicators, otherwise seedlings may not appear. An important point is soil and seed preparation... The quality of the work performed depends not only on how they can germinate, but also on the intensity of the development of seedlings.

After the formation of 3-4 leaves, the frequent bed is thinned out, leaving the strongest seedlings. At the stage of germination and growth of shoots, it is important to ensure sufficient moisture, good light and fertilization with any nutrientshelping the plant to grow.

Seedlings

The seedling method is used to obtain early harvest and in order to protect young shoots from spring frosts. The grown seedlings in greenhouse or at home are transferred to the garden bed, which is already strong. Their root system, although weak, takes root quickly in a new environment.

It is important not to damage the sensitive root when transferring seedlings to the hole.

Before planting sprouts in open ground must be adapted on the street, a sharp change in habitat and temperature can destroy them.

The lashes can be placed in the spreading and on the trellis. Depending on the method chosen, the spacing between bushes and rows must be observed. In the absence of a garter, there should be enough room for the stems to spread over the garden.

Garter cucumbers on a trellis net

Where is it better to plant cucumbers to get a good harvest

The culture is native to India, so a hot, humid climate is ideal for it. The very structure of the whip indicates the need for a garter on the trellis.

The garden bed arranged in this way is protected from fungal infections with an abundance of rains and from the scorching rays of the sun. The fruits find shade under the massive leaves of the plant. However, it is worth remembering that the scorching sun is also dangerous for cucumbers, burns may appear on the greenery.

Given the climatic features, it is necessary to provide partial shading of bushes or partial shade. This is easy to do by planting corn, sunflower or undersized grapes in the aisle area. Diffused light will be more beneficial to the plant.

With all the love for moisture, you should not choose a site in the lowlands for sowing cucumbers. With heavy rainfall and a high level of groundwater, plants are threatened with fungal diseases due to waterlogging. Much better is a place on a hill, where it is much easier to control the degree of soil moisture.

Preparing the land for planting

It is better to prepare a place for a cucumber garden in advance in order to exclude unpleasant surprises.

Digging up the beds in the fall is a mandatory procedure

At the end of the season from the site all plant residues and debris are removed... For larvae of pests and other microorganisms, they are of great interest. In such an environment, the parasites hibernate and by the spring they are already replenishing the colonies with a new generation.

To eliminate this possibility, it is recommended in addition to cleaning be sure to dig up the ground (immersion depth at least 25 cm). It is better to do this just before the frost, to prevent the parasites from finding a new shelter. Also, autumn work includes the introduction of fertilizers to increase soil fertility. This process can be combined with digging.

In the spring area dug up again and necessarily disinfected... To do this, use a weak solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water.

Cucumbers respond very well to this type of fertilizer such as manure... It can be administered both in autumn and spring 2-3 weeks before disembarkation (8-10 kg per 1 m2). To stimulate the growth of young shoots, nitrogen and potassium-phosphorus substances (25 g of potassium salt, 40 g of superphosphate) are introduced into the soil.

To protect cucumbers from pests, the soil is treated with Aktellik before planting.

In the process of preparing the soil for the new season, in order to prevent it, it is necessary to treat the future bed with wood ash or special preparations that protect the bushes from pests (Fitoverm, Aktellik).

How to plant in soil

Growing greenery using seeds provides for the observance of the following rules:

• sowing time is selected taking into account the favorable temperature conditions (late May - early June);
• seeds must be processed before planting;
• the soil should be disinfected and fertilized;
• the beds are best positioned from east to west;
• landing pattern - 20x100 or 60x80 (depending on the cultivation method);
• the depth of immersion of seeds is 2-3 cm.

Seedling growing rules:

• the seed must be prepared (sorting, soaking, disinfecting);
• soil is also needed disinfect and enrich with nutrients;
• it is ideal to use a substrate of sod land, mullein and humus for cultivating seedlings (2: 1: 7);
• to fertilize the soil, substances are introduced (30 g of ammonium nitrate or urea, 20 g of superphosphate, 6 g of potassium salt, 30 g of lime per bucket of soil);
• temperature regime after sowing - 12-15 degrees; after the seedlings had time to ascend, at first, for several days, 20-25 degrees are observed, then the temperature is reduced - in the daytime to 20-22 degrees, at night to 15 degrees;
• 10 days after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings are fed with slurry (1: 1) with the addition of 20 g of superphosphate per bucket of mixture;
• a week before transferring shoots to open ground, spend daily outdoor hardening;
• for prophylaxis, seedlings are treated with epin or immunocytophyte.

Correct seedling care

The rules for caring for a cucumber bed are very clear. Among the main conditions - creating a humid environment... This is regulated by watering.

Ideal for seedling care sprinkling or drip irrigation... The use of a hose can damage fragile roots with a strong jet. A small area can be spilled with a spray bottle. The water norm per 1 m2 is 10-14 liters.

Regularity of procedures - 1 time in 7 days with average air humidity, 1 time in 5 days at temperatures over 28 degrees.

To water the beds, only warm settled water is used. The use of cold liquid negatively affects the development of the plant.

When caring for cucumber seedlings, it is ideal to use drip irrigation

The intensity of development and the formation of a large lash requires a lot of nutrition, so it is impossible to ignore the feeding regime. After the first shoots appear on the surface of the soil, first feeding: 10 g of potassium salt, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate are taken for 10 liters of water.

The second feeding the garden bed is enriched after 2 weeks, doubling the amount of dissolved fertilizers. When applying fertilizers, contact between the working solution and the green part of the crop should be avoided.

To protect cucumbers from decay and pests, it is recommended to periodically carry out weeding... This procedure is usually combined with loosening, which provides free access of oxygen to the soil and prevents the formation of stagnant moisture in the soil. The first weeding is done after the formation of 4-5 leaves on the shoots.

Spring weather is often unpredictable, so after sowing the garden covered with foil or agrofiber.

The film needs to be removed during the day, and the shelter must be restored again at night. So late frosts will not cause the death of seedlings.

Based on the information provided, we can conclude that it is not difficult to create favorable conditions for growing cucumbers. Timely prevention will prevent damage to the plant by pests and various diseases. And thanks to complementary foods and irrigation, cucumbers will be endowed with high taste.

Cucumber has firmly settled in our gardens and has become an indispensable ingredient in many of our favorite dishes since ancient times. It got its name from the Greek word "aguros", which means "immature". It was cultivated in Ancient Rome and Ancient Egypt, as evidenced by the images on the frescoes in the temples. The earliest mentions of a cucumber are found in ancient Indian manuscripts, which are estimated to be about 6 thousand years old. In India, a wild relative of our cucumber still grows - a liana that hugs tree trunks and climbs 20 meters in search of life-giving light.

Knowing how to care for cucumbers, following simple methods and the recommendations of experienced vegetable growers, you can harvest a high yield of tasty and high-quality fruits even under adverse climatic conditions.

Seed and seedling preparation

Cucumbers are planted in the ground with seedlings or seeds. With the seedling method of cultivation, the first cucumbers are harvested half a month earlier than when planting with seeds. Preplant seed treatment:

1. A month before sowing cucumbers for seedlings or into the ground, large and full-bodied seeds are taken and heated near heating devices at a temperature of +25 ° C.This technique provides early fruiting, friendly germination and reduces the number of barren flowers.
2. For disinfection, cucumber seeds are pickled for an hour in an infusion of garlic (30 g of chopped garlic heads are infused in 100 ml of water) or kept in a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
3. A nutrient solution is prepared: in 1 liter of water, mix 1 tbsp. l nitrophoska and wood ash. Cucumber seeds are soaked in it overnight.
4. Then the seeds are washed with clean water, placed in a damp cloth and left at a temperature of +20 ° C for two days to swell. Make sure that the seeds do not germinate, but only a little bit.
5. The final stage is hardening. The seeds are kept in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for 24 hours.

Such pre-sowing preparation applies only to varietal seeds of cucumbers. It is not necessary to warm up and process hybrid ones.

Seeds of cucumbers are sown in April about 2-3 weeks before planting seedlings in the beds. Separate containers or peat pots are prepared for seedlings, fill them with soil mixture from:

• humus - 1 part;
• peat - 1 part;
• small old sawdust - 0.5 parts.

For 10 liters of prepared soil, add 2 tbsp. l. wood ash and 1.5 tbsp. l. nitrophosphate.

When the second true leaf appears, the seedlings of cucumbers are fertilized with a warm (+20 ° C) solution of nitroammophoska or nitrophoska (1 tsp. Diluted in 1 liter of water).

A week before planting on the beds, the seedlings begin to hardenexposing it to fresh air for several hours.

Planting seedlings and seeds of cucumbers in the ground

A bed for cucumbers is chosen well-lit, protected from drafts, with fertilized loose soil. Cucumbers can be planted in the same place no earlier than after 5 years. The optimal precursors for them are green manures, carrots, legumes, beets, tomatoes, cabbage, onions, corn, potatoes, peppers, and green crops. You can not plant cucumbers after representatives of the pumpkin family, because they are prone to the same diseases.

In the fall, the plot planned for planting cucumbers is prepared in this way:

• dig up;
• to reduce the acidity of the soil, peat or wood ash, slaked lime, dolomite flour or crushed chalk are introduced, and green manure is planted;
• make organic matter (manure, humus, peat or compost) per 1 sq. meter - 6-8 kg;
• apply mineral fertilizers per 1 sq. meter: potassium sulfate - 6 g and in sandy soils - superphosphate.

If a garden bed is being prepared in the spring, then by 1 sq. meter make:

• organic matter - 8-10 kg;
• superphosphate - 20-40 g;
• potassium sulfate - 10–20 g;
• ammonium nitrate - 10-15 g

A day before planting cucumber seedlings, the garden bed is watered with very hot water with copper sulfate (10 liters - 1 tsp). For each square meter of the bed, 3 liters of solution are poured.

Cucumber seeds are sown in the prepared areawhen the soil warms up to a temperature of at least + 10-12 ° C, and the air - up to + 15 ° C by one of the methods:

• rows - with row spacing of 70–90 cm and the distance between the holes - 15–20 cm, deepening the seeds by 3–4 cm (2 seeds are planted, of which one sprout is left after thinning);
• nests - 60 x 60 or 70 x 70 cm, planting 4–5 seeds each.

When the temperature drops below + 15 ° C, the crops are covered with foil overnight.

Seedlings of cucumbers are planted in open beds when the soil warms up to + 17–20 ° C. The seedlings should have 3-4 true leaves. With the threat of night frosts, the seedlings are covered with a film.

Care

Watering cucumbers

The development of cucumber bushes in the ground, yield and fruit taste depend on the quantity and quality of irrigation... Before the onset of the flowering period, the plants are watered once a week, spending from 3 to 6 liters per 1 sq. meter. In the fruiting phase, cucumbers need to be watered more often: once every 2-3 days, doubling the water consumption. In dry, hot weather, cucumber beds will have to be watered daily.

Always watered with warm (at least 20 ° C) and settled water early in the morning or in the evening, trying not to splash the leaves and erode the soil at the roots. To do this, use a watering can with a divider. The soil is moistened 15 cm deep.

In rainy weather, watering is reduced... Excess moisture causes fungal diseases and root decay. When the soil is waterlogged, drainage grooves are dug.

Attention! Dark green brittle leaves in cucumbers indicate a lack of moisture, and pale green ones indicate excess.

Weeding and loosening

While the seedlings are young, the soil is loosened with simultaneous weeding after watering. This is done carefully, to a depth of no more than 4 cm, so as not to damage the roots of the cucumbers located in the upper soil layer. Subsequently, in addition to loosening, the vines are spud to form additional roots, which is a good prevention of fungal diseases.

Top dressing for cucumbers in the open field

For intensive growth of cucumber bushes, their active fruiting requires systematic feeding. The first feeding is carried out at the stage of the appearance of the second or third leaf at the shoots or 7-10 days after planting the seedlings in open ground with organic or mineral complex fertilizers in the following proportions:

• organic - in a 10-liter bucket of water, 1 liter of thick mullein or fermented solution of bird droppings and 2 glasses of wood ash are diluted;
• complex mineral fertilizers - 50 g of superphosphate, as well as 15 g of urea and potassium sulfate, are diluted in a 10-liter bucket of water.

Subsequent fertilization of cucumbers is carried out every 15 days. The amount of potash and nitrogen fertilizers applied during the fruiting period is doubled. Top dressing is carried out at the root of plants in the evening, always after watering with clean water.

In addition to root fertilization, cucumber care includes foliar feeding... They are used as an addition to root dressing, as well as during prolonged cold snaps, when the root system of plants is not able to assimilate nutrients from the soil. Foliar dressing is alternated with root dressings. For their implementation, use the same solutions as for root, but 2 times weaker.

A good result gives the use of unconventional dressings for cucumbers:

1. Wood ash - used up to six times throughout the season: as an additive to the soil mixture when sowing cucumber seeds for seedlings, in the phase of formation of the second leaf, during flowering and during the fruiting period — once every two weeks. They are applied simultaneously with organic fertilizers or embedded in the topsoil (be sure to water the plants after that).
2. Yeast accelerates root formation. Soil bacteria fed with yeast are activated and enrich the soil with nitrogen and oxygen. Such feeding is carried out up to three times per season. 10 g of dry yeast are diluted in a bucket of water, 2 tbsp is added to enhance fermentation. l. sugar or jam, insist for several hours. One liter of the resulting solution is diluted in 5 liters of warm water and watered at the root. Watering should be done when the soil is already well warmed up.
3. Honey dressing is carried out during the flowering period of cucumbers to attract pollinating insects. In one liter of heated water, dilute 1 tbsp. l. honey and spray foliage.

A lack of nutrients or errors in care is indicated by the shape of the cucumbers:

• arcuate and lopsided fruits are the result of cross-pollination of hybrids or irregular watering;
• fruits narrowed in the middle (with a "waist") - the result of temperature changes or watering with cold water;
• light curved tips of cucumbers are formed due to a lack of nitrogen;
• pear-shaped fruits indicate a lack of potassium.

Cucumber bush formation

An important component of caring for cucumbers when grown in the open field is correct formation of the bushdirectly affecting the quality and quantity of fruits. To stimulate the formation of lateral shoots with female flowers, the main stem of late and mid-season varieties is pinched after the fourth or fifth leaf. Early varieties are not pinched, since their female flowers are formed on the main stem.

During prolonged rains in thickened plantings, it is recommended to tie the vines to the trellises in order to avoid the disease of gray rot. To do this, the ropes are pulled between meter stakes driven into the ground, and cucumber lashes are tied to them.

The garter solves several problems:

• saves usable area on the site;
• protects against the development of diseases arising from contact of plants with the ground;
• as a result of better illumination of cucumber bushes, the fruits are tied and grow faster;
• facilitates the care of cucumber bushes and harvesting.

To avoid injury to adult plants, the garter begins when the vines reach a length of 30 cm. It is convenient to use special nets for garter cucumbers, which are pulled over the trellises. Cucumber lashes are placed on the cells of the grid and the vines begin to weave along them.

Pest and disease control in cucumbers

Open field cucumbers are more susceptible to disease and pests.

The most common diseases of cucumbers:

1. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease in which a white bloom appears on the leaves and petioles. Plants die without treatment. Urgent measures include removing weeds that can spread the disease, applying fungicides and treating with sulfur-containing preparations.
2. Cladosporium is a fungal disease that mainly affects plants kept in conditions of high humidity and exposed to temperature extremes. When identifying characteristic signs in the form of grayish-black spots on the leaves and fruits, curvatures and stopping the growth of zelents, they are treated with drugs based on benzimidazoles.
3. Peronosporosis, or downy mildew, is also a fungal disease. It manifests itself in the form of formation of yellow spots on the leaves or plaque with further death of plants. The main methods of combating the disease: preventive treatment of seed with a solution of potassium permanganate, observance of crop rotation, removal of diseased cucumber bushes and treatment of the remaining fungicides.

Of the pests, open field cucumbers most often affect:

1. Aphids - prefers young leaves. The affected leaves curl and shrivel, the plants stop developing and die. Insects up to 2 mm in size are clearly visible with the naked eye. Wet and moderate weather contributes to their distribution. To destroy pests, insecticides are used, which are recommended to be alternated.
2. Minerals infect open ground cucumbers during the fruiting period. The larvae of miner flies gnaw through tunnels inside the leaf plate, as a result of which whitish patterns appear on the leaves of cucumbers. If the number of affected leaves is insignificant, they are cut off and buried. With a large spread of pests, the same drugs are used as against aphids.

Harvesting and storage

For the active formation of new ovaries and a high yield in the initial period of fruiting, cucumbers are harvested after 2-3 days, and with the beginning of the mass harvest - every other day. It is not recommended to leave twisted, overgrown, diseased greens. When picking cucumbers, it is impossible to lift or move cucumber lashes, so as not to damage the adventitious roots that form in places where they come into contact with the soil.

The best time to collect greens is in the morning, when the fruits are maximally saturated with moisture. Harvested cucumbers should not be left in the sun. They are not stored for long, so they are canned, salted or pickled. To preserve for one to two weeks, the cucumbers are placed in a saucepan, poured with cold water, and tightly closed with a lid. The water needs to be changed daily.

Depending on the purpose, cucumbers of the following sizes are harvested:

• 8-10 cm - for conservation;
• 8-18 cm - for pickling;
• 12 cm - for preparing salads and fresh consumption.

If you pick cucumbers often, small fruits are formed for conservation.Rarer harvests contribute to the formation of cucumbers for lettuce and pickling.

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If there is a vegetable garden next to the house, then cucumbers will certainly grow there. This vegetable is so good both fresh and in pickles and canned that the summer season is simply unthinkable without it. Therefore, experienced gardeners will always allocate not only the best place for a cucumber, but also additional time for leaving. Knowing the peculiarities of the culture, you can harvest good crops even from a very small area. We will reveal all the secrets of growing cucumbers in the open field in this article.

Content:

• What do cucumbers love?
• Features of growing cucumbers
• Techniques for increasing the yield of cucumbers
• Caring for cucumbers during fruiting
• Reproduction of the varieties you like

What do cucumbers like?

When planning to grow this crop, you need to take care of a number of points that will lead to success. Each of them is based on the characteristics of the plant and is quite important. Therefore, you cannot miss something, but you need to approach the cultivation of cucumbers in an integrated manner.

1. Cucumber is a thermophilic culture

It is necessary to sow cucumbers on a bed warmed by the sun, after the threat of return frosts has passed, and the topsoil warms up to + 13-15 ° С. If you sow seeds in cold ground, they simply will not sprout. However, this vegetable does not like high temperatures either - no matter how much the cucumber likes warmth, its best growth is observed at rates from +24 to + 28 ° С. If the thermometer rises higher, there is a stop in development. Therefore, it is advisable to sow crops on open beds from mid-late May (depending on the climatic zone) to the middle of the first decade of June.

It is necessary to close up cucumber seeds to a depth of about 2 cm, taking into account the planting density - 5-7 bushes per square meter. It is not worth thickening this culture, since it should receive enough light and be well ventilated.

2. Cucumber loves to eat well

The place for growing cucumbers must be prepared in advance by fertilizing the soil with rotted manure (under the predecessor), mullein or chicken droppings (directly under the crop). Thus, the garden bed will receive a sufficient charge of nutrients, it will be disinfected from a number of pathogens and enriched with carbon dioxide, and the cucumbers will be provided with adequate nutrition.

3. Cucumber - a culture with a superficial root system

Like any vegetable crop with a shallow root system, the cucumber loves structured soil, good oxygen access to the roots, and adequate moisture. But, it is this particular feature of the structure of its underground part that brings the greatest damage to the plant with illiterate human intervention.

The root system of the cucumber represents 1.5% of the total mass of the plant and extends in depth (mainly) up to 40 cm. The largest part of it lies only 5 cm from the soil surface and barely reaches 25 cm, so it is impossible to loosen the garden around the plant. Each time the top layer of the earth next to the cucumber stem is processed, its roots are injured and the plant needs more than a week to recover and recover. Based on this, the air permeability of the bed should not be ensured by constant weeding and loosening, but by a good predecessor, early introduction of organic matter and mulching.

The best precursors for cucumbers are lettuce, early cabbage, cauliflower, peas and green manure. Acceptable: potatoes and tomatoes. Beans, carrots, squash and other melons are not suitable as precursors for cucumber, since they have diseases in common with the culture.

4. Cucumber - moisture-loving culture

Based on the structural features of the root system, a cucumber needs a constant moisture regime for normal growth and development. Lack of moisture causes darkening and fragility of plant foliage, introduces it into a state of stress.Excessive moisture - reduces the amount of oxygen in the soil, makes the leaves of cucumbers pale green, inhibits the growth of lashes and the formation of greens. Constant jumps in moisture, combined with jumps in temperature, provoke the formation of bitterness in the fruit.

Not useful for this culture and watering with cold water. This is due to the fact that the cooled soil impairs the absorption capacity of the root system. Therefore, the temperature of the irrigation water must not be lower than + 18 ° C.

The optimal indicator of soil moisture for cucumber is 80%, the threshold of wilting is 30%.

5. Cucumber - short day culture

Based on the fact that the cucumber is a short-day plant, the best time to grow it is the beginning and end of summer. This fact, with a competent approach, allows not only to get high crop yields, but to use the useful area of ​​the garden with maximum benefit, filling the beds that were empty after early vegetables with summer (June) crops of cucumber.

It is also worth knowing that this plant, despite the love for the sun and warmth, needs only 10-12 hours of the photoperiod and works well not only in open areas, but also in light shade.

Fruit ovary on a cucumber

So, based on the characteristics of this culture, aiming to grow a good harvest of cucumbers, it is necessary to tune in not only to regular watering, but also to regular feeding, regular mulching, regular collection of fruits, since it is the consistency in caring for this vegetable that plays a key role in success.

Preparing the soil for planting cucumbers

Planting a cucumber begins with site selection and soil preparation. This is important because this culture loves light and responds well to fertility. Therefore, if possible, then the beds must be organized from north to south, under the predecessor, apply organic matter or fill the soil with fertilizers just before planting the vegetable.

The best fertilizer for cucumber is cow dung. Under the predecessor, it should be applied in rotted form, at the rate of 4-6 kg per square meter, and immediately before sowing - as a tincture of mullein (1 part of fresh manure to 5 parts of water). If there is no manure, it can be replaced with chicken manure (diluted with water 1x20) or any available complex mineral fertilizer.

The most successful option for growing cucumbers is warm beds with a height of at least 25 cm. Having an organic pillow inside, they not only provide the plants with the necessary nutrients, but also saturate the roots with carbon dioxide, produce a warming effect.

Planting cucumbers in open ground

Many believe that in order for a cucumber to give a high yield, it must be planted exclusively in seedlings. However, if the conditions of the climatic zone in which you are gardening are quite mild, it is good to sow a cucumber directly on the beds.

It is better to do this in several stages, and in order not to miscalculate with the timing of crops (suddenly the cold will return unexpectedly) and in order to prolong fruiting. You can start sowing from mid-May (in the south) and continue until mid-June. There is no point in planting cucumbers later, since long daylight hours and high summer temperatures do not favor its normal development.

Due to the fact that modern breeding has taken care to bring out not only zoned varieties for each separate climatic zone, but also disease-resistant hybrids, it is worth choosing them. This will protect you from unnecessary hassle and will allow you to get a really high-quality rich harvest.

In addition, it is necessary to pay attention to the ripening time of the selected variety, and to its purpose, since it can be early ripening, mid-ripening or late cucumbers, as well as universal, pickled or salad cucumbers.

If the last fact is not indicated on the seed label - look at the picture: cucumbers intended for conservation have black pimples, those that are good only fresh are white.

For sowing, it is better to choose seed at least two years ago. This is due to the peculiarity of melon seeds to increase germination with each additional year of storage (from 2 to 6 years, then germination drops and by 9 years the seeds become unsuitable for sowing), and to form a larger number of female flowers on the plants obtained from such sowing material, from which the fruits are formed.

Watering cucumbers

Regular high-quality watering is a fundamental factor in growing a decent harvest of cucumbers. It should be carried out in the holes between the rows and often enough to keep the soil constantly moist. It is better to water the cucumbers in the evening, or at the same time in the morning, preferably before the start of the heat, with warm water (from +18 to + 25 ° C), without moisture getting on the leaves. Watering should be moderate before flowering, and abundant during fruiting.

Top dressing for cucumbers

If the soil is not filled with a sufficient amount of organic matter for the predecessor or in the pre-sowing preparation of the beds, the cucumbers must be fed regularly. Feeding begins after the formation of 2-3 true leaves and continues throughout the entire fruiting period.

Cucumbers are most responsive to nitrogen, however, for their full development, they need both phosphorus and potassium. Therefore, most often experienced gardeners alternate the application of mineral fertilizers with organic matter. The best choice in this matter would be ammofoska (10-15 g per 1 sq. M) and mullein solution, or chicken droppings. But if the weather is cold outside, feeding is useless.

Hilling cucumbers

It is good to spud the bare roots of cucumbers several times a season. This will allow the plants to grow additional roots and protect the stem from fungal diseases.

Shaping, or pinching

A separate component of cucumber care is the formation of plants. It is necessary in order to provoke the development of lateral shoots, on which more female flowers are formed. Formation is made by pinching the central stem of the cucumber over 5-6 leaves. At the same time, early ripening varieties can not be formed, but the development of late and mid-ripening varieties can be adjusted.

Techniques for increasing the yield of cucumbers

Based on the peculiarities of the culture, experienced vegetable growers have long found out that high-quality care and pinching of the lashes are far from all the tricks in terms of increasing the yield of cucumbers. There are other ways to enhance the formation of female flowers. One of them is to temporarily stop watering just before the flowering of the crop. This technique makes the plants “think” that they may soon die and provokes intense fruit formation.

Another option for increasing yields is mixing different varieties and hybrids of crops in plantings - this enhances the cross-pollination of cucumbers.

You can also make ringing of the stems - make a shallow circular incision under the first pair of leaves of the plant (the procedure is performed only in dry weather), which will complicate the outflow of nutrients to the roots and contribute to the formation of more ovaries.

At the time of the decline in the formation of zelents, you can make foliar feeding of cucumbers with urea (at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water), but only either on a wet evening or in cloudy weather.

Increases productivity and removal of the first ovary. This technique allows the plant to strengthen the root system and gain strength to form a large number of fruits. You can also try attracting bees to your area - either by planting melliferous plants, or by arranging drinking bowls with aromatic syrup.

A separate word must be said about supports.Since the cucumber is a climbing plant, the best option for growing it is vertical. Supports can be of different options: inclined, vertical, arranged along the garden bed or round - here as it is convenient for anyone. The main thing is that the plants on them will not touch the ground, they will be better ventilated, it will be easier to harvest from them, which means they will be less sick and bear fruit more abundantly.

The peak of fruiting in cucumbers begins in July. It is important to continue watering and harvest on time. It is better to collect the collection every other day, a maximum of two, in the early morning hours, since the cucumbers harvested in the evening wither faster and are stored worse. It is necessary to remove everything, including twisted and ugly fruits, since each cucumber left on the plant delays the laying of new ovaries. At the same time, the cucumbers should not be tugged or twisted, but carefully trimmed with garden shears, or pinched with nails, since the injured lashes get sick and form the harvest worse.

Along with the greens, at each inspection of the garden, it is good to remove the yellowed and diseased leaves - this will keep the plants strong and healthy, and prolong their fruiting.

Reproduction of the varieties you like

If the variety of cucumbers purchased this year actually made you happy with the harvest, then it is advisable to collect seeds from it. To do this, on several plants, it is necessary to leave a certain amount of large healthy fruits (no more than three per one bush) and let them ripen. However, it makes sense to do this if it really is a variety, since the hybrid does not repeat the mother plant from the seeds, so it is useless to leave it for propagation.