What can be grown in the garden bed where onions grew?

Onions are one of the first plants that humans began to grow. It is about four thousand years old from the moment of domestication and the beginning of cultivation.

No cuisine in the world can be imagined without this vegetable, because most dishes without its use seem bland and tasteless. There are quite a few varieties of onions, and each has found its fans.

Each gardener has his own secrets for good ripening of onions in the garden, but the most important thing is to adhere to the correct agricultural technology in order to obtain a large harvest, whether it is planting in a comb or from seeds.

Basic requirements for growing onions from sets

Not the most picky plant is considered cold-resistant, grows well at a temperature of twelve to sixteen degrees Celsius, seeds germinate even at five degrees in the cold season. Spicy varieties tolerate frost better, sweet varieties can die in the open field at a few degrees of frost.

Onion responds well to watering in the first stages of growth, in the future it needs dry soil in order to mature better. He needs more sunlight. Despite their low weight, onions require special attention to soil composition. The soil in the garden should be sufficiently loose and nutritious.

Onions should not be planted where groundwater is close to the ground.

It is necessary to carry out regular weeding of the onion beds.

Weeding the beds must be carried out regularly, since the culture does not tolerate the neighborhood with weeds.

The correct solution would be to organize the onion beds and plant the vegetable in the places where they grew before cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes or potatoes... These are vegetables for which organic matter is added to the soil.

It is not recommended to plant onions in the place where they were grown last year. It is best if you return to this site in five years.

The increased acidity of the soil is harmful to the plant, since it absorbs nutrients worse, it can be affected by downy mildew.

Before planting onions does not tolerate liming of the soil composition, it is recommended to use wood ash.

How to grow large, good outdoor bulbs

One of five options is most often used - seedlings, seeds, seedlings, vegetative method, Chinese.

The Chinese way - how to plant on the technology in the combs

The Chinese method involves planting onions in the ridges.

This option can help increase productivity... The main feature is the planting of onions on the ridges, and not in the beds themselves. The heads grown in this way are distinguished by their flattened shapes and large sizes. The tops of the vegetable are perfectly illuminated by sunlight, warm up, from this the onion receives good protection from the effects of rot.

It should be added that it is better to loosen and water such beds, remove weeds from them.

You can sow at an air temperature equal to 5 degrees... The planting material must be sorted out, smaller bulbs are allowed to be planted as the soil warms up. The larger ones should be held by May. Such a measure will give you the opportunity to harvest at the same time.

After the bulkhead, the sets are warmed up a couple of weeks before planting. To do this, it is placed in a box and placed near the battery.

It is imperative that each bulb is carefully the tail is cut off, excess scales are removed... If you have damaged the growth neck, you can put the material aside. It is no longer suitable for landing.

One day before planting, the material is soaked in warm water to give an impetus to the formation of the root system.

For better formation of the root system, the seedlings are soaked in warm water.

The soil for planting must be prepared in the fall. A spoon of superphosphate, a teaspoon of nitroammophoska, two of dolomite flour are added to each square of the site. In the spring, the bed must be dug up again, you can add a little manure, just not too fresh.

Ridges are arranged, the height of which should be about fifteen centimeters, the interval between them is up to thirty... Sevok is planted after ten centimeters to a three centimeter depth. The seeds should not be trampled; it would be more correct to lightly sprinkle them with earth.

In the first month of growth, if the weather is dry, the onions should be watered twice. But this is in the event that it rains between waterings.

You can feed it three times. Mullein is added in mid-May. June is the turn of potash, urea and phosphorus fertilizers. The third time it is necessary to fertilize at the moment when the bulbs begin to form.

Another feature of the Chinese method is that weeding the beds is necessary as the weeds grow, which happens quite rarely.

Copper sulfate is used as a protective measure against powdery mildew.

Method of planting and sowing seeds in the soil

This planting method is recommended for the northwestern regions and Belarus, when the onion is not able to fully ripen, which reduces its shelf life.

In the middle of spring, the seed is calibrated, more than large specimens... After sowing "dry" the first shoots will appear in three weeks. To accelerate the process, you can soak the seeds in potassium permanganate, and after a day sprinkle them on the fabric and leave them alone to hatch. But at the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the planting material remains sufficiently moist.

Furrows are made at a distance twenty centimeters... One gram of seeds is enough for two meters of sowing, planting depth - up to three centimeters. For convenience, you can mix the seeds with sand, sprinkle the grooves with dry earth after planting.

Onion seeds are planted in grooves

When to plant in the garden

Landing time depends on weather conditions... If the weather is warm in spring, then sowing can be done in the last days of April. Otherwise, you will have to wait until the ground warms up.

The seedlings grown in advance are transferred to the ground not earlier than mid-May.

Sevok is planted in the first May decade... Inhabitants of the northwestern regions can orient themselves when planting onions on the flowering of bird cherry.

For winter sowing, the beds are prepared in the fall. Landing is carried out in the second half of November, before frost.

Secrets of proper agricultural technology

Avoid crusting or weeds on the soil surface. To this end, the beds must be loosened more often to a depth of five centimeters. Weed vegetation is best removed at the initial stage of growth, when the seedlings are still reddish.

After the start of the formation of the turnip - it needs to be opened by a third

It must be remembered that the bow loves to show off. When a turnip begins to form, it is necessary open a thirdby freeing the shoulders. This technique helps the bulb to form well and fully ripen.

Harvesting and storage of turnips and feathers

As soon as new feathers have ceased to appear, and the onion has acquired a characteristic shade, it can be removed. As a rule, this falls on mid-August - early September... If you skip the harvest time, the vegetable will begin to grow again and will be of little use for storage.

The collected bulbs are washed, peeled from husks and dry feathers, the roots are cut off... For drying, it is laid out in one layer in a room that is well ventilated. After a few weeks, new golden scales appear on the bulbs. This means that the vegetable is ready for long-term storage.

Before long-term storage, the bulbs are peeled and roots are removed.

As a rule, gardeners prefer growing onions with sevkom, purchasing them in special stores. It can be planted in the winter, after preparing the garden bed.

But if you adhere to all the recommendations, then in the Chinese way you can get a good harvest of this wonderful vegetable.

Growing onions to obtain a head (bulb) in the summer cottages of experienced gardeners does not cause difficulties. However, in order to get large (200-400 g) bulbs, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the cultivation technique, which has its own characteristics.

General Approaches to Getting Healthy, Quality Onion Bulbs

Large onions start from seeds. Onions per bulb (head) can be grown through seeds (nigella), sevok (arbazheyka) and seedlings. On the garden wedge of the summer cottage for growing large onion bulbs for the purpose of eating and winter storage, it is more practical to grow a crop from sevka.

Onion

To get a harvest of large heads (up to 200-400 g) of onions, several conditions are necessary:

• selection of a zoned variety with a large onion;
• correct storage of seed;
• compliance with the requirements of cultivation agrotechnics.

Bulb varieties and size

Do you want a large onion? Be attentive to the varieties planted. Onions are a long day plant and react painfully to the ratio of dark and light periods of the day. Onions have a very interesting varietal characteristic of their reaction to the length of daylight hours. Culture tolerates climate change more easily than lack of daylight hours.

Southern onion varieties are genetically predisposed to grow and form a storage organ (bulb) as the day length approaches the maximum - 13-15 hours. The approach of the maximum in the south takes a long period, and the zoned variety manages to build up a large vegetative mass, including a large storage organ.

If a southern onion variety is planted in the northern region, where daylight hours in the summer season very quickly reach a maximum of 15-18 hours, the plants will tend to finish the growing season as soon as possible and form bulbs. The formation of the storage organ (bulb) means the end of development, and retirement.The bulbs do not have time to gain mass and remain small.

Northern onion varieties planted in the south will constantly form a leaf mass in anticipation of the onset of the longest day at 15-18 hours. And since in the south the maximum length of daylight hours ends at the 15 hour mark, the culture continues to increase the leaf mass, and does not form a bulb at all. The variety does not have enough light time to move on to the next phase of development.

Therefore, dear readers, when you want to get a large onion bulb, be sure to take into account the culture's reaction to photoperiodicity. Grow southern varieties of onions in the south, and northern ones in the north. Otherwise, the onion heads will be shallow, immature, or not formed at all. In this case, both the large-headed, but not zoned variety, and the fulfillment of all the requirements of agricultural technology will not ensure the production of a large bulb.

Onion

Selection and storage of seed

It is possible to get a high yield of large onion bulbs only when sowing with high-quality seed material, which can be purchased in a store or grown independently and properly preserved before planting in the ground.

When self-harvesting seed, it is necessary to divide them into fractions after harvesting and drying the crop of bulbs:

• Wild oat, 0.5-0.7 cm in diameter;
• Group I, 0.8-1.5 cm in diameter;
• Group II, 1.5-2.2 cm in diameter.

The best for sowing is the arbazheka of groups I and II.

Before planting, the selected seedlings are stored in a cool room at a temperature of 0 ... + 2 ° С and not higher, and in a warm room at + 17 ... + 18 ° С (away from heating batteries).

If the temperature regime was violated and the arbazheka was stored at home at a temperature of + 2 ... + 15 ° С, it makes no sense to hope for a high-quality harvest of onions. When planting in open ground in spring, such an onion set will begin to shoot. A thick hollow peduncle will take away some of the nutrients, the onion bulb will be small. In addition, the base of the peduncle in the bulb will serve as a source of decay in the autumn-winter period.

Thus, the variety and quality of planting material are the prerequisites for obtaining a harvest of large onion bulbs.

Turnip onion growing technology

Precursors of onions

Tomatoes, cucumbers, early and medium potatoes, zucchini, legumes, and early cabbage are good precursors for onions in crop rotation. Onions go well with carrots, beets, radishes, greens, which allows these crops to be used as compactors in combined beds.

Planting onions

Planting period sevka

Planting onion sets can be carried out in late autumn or early spring. In practice, spring planting of onions is preferable. Climatic cataclysms of recent years can provoke early seedlings and their death during recurrent frosts, cause partial rotting of seedlings during the winter. The stress state of the plants will lead to the formation of small bulbs.

Depending on weather conditions and soil warming, the arbazheka is sown in warm regions in the last decade of March - early April, in colder (middle lane) - in the last decade of April - early May. In the northern regions, after the frost passes and the soil warms up to + 6 ... + 10 ° С.

The optimum soil temperature for sowing seedlings is + 10 ... + 12 ° С, and air temperature + 3 ... + 5 ° С.

Onion shoots will appear on the 5th - 6th day. If you plant a seed in cold soil, it will begin to shoot. If you are late with planting, then, once in dry, overheated soil, the onion will slow down its development and will not form a large onion. That is, in order to obtain a large onion bulb, it is very important to withstand the planting time of the set.

Onion seedlings are patient to cold snaps and easily tolerate short-term frosts down to -3 ° С.But with autumn planting and the onset of spring return frosts, grown plants stop growing and developing when the temperature drops from -3 ... -5 ° C, which subsequently affects the size of the bulb.

Seed preparation for planting:

• Select only absolutely healthy onion sets for planting;
• Cut dry ends at the top of the set carefully with scissors;
• To protect the seed from fungal infections, be sure to disinfect it with hot water, potassium permanganate solution, and other known methods. Decontaminated onions are dried at room temperature until flowing. It is stored in a damp burlap until planting.
• The next day, they are planted in prepared soil.

Onion soil requirement

Onions do not tolerate acidified soils and fresh organic matter. Therefore, when grown in culture rotation, organic matter and deoxidizers are introduced 2-3 years before planting onions for previous crops. Onions do not like liming the soil, therefore, if it is necessary to deoxidize in the year of planting, 3-4 glasses of ash per sq. m area.

For normal growth and development of plants, the soil under the onions must have a neutral reaction pH = 6.4-6.7 units, be moisture-absorbing, permeable, fertile.

Planting material for onions - sets

Fertilization

Onions take out significant amounts of nutrients from the soil with the harvest, but they do not need to be fed. An even supply of nutrients and moisture during the growing season will contribute to the constant growth of the vegetative mass of the bulb. On depleted and dense soils, from autumn, under the main digging of soil for onions, ripe crumbly humus is introduced no more than 1 / 3-1 / 2 buckets per sq. m or sow siderates. Rye, oats, mustard, rapeseed are well loosened. On dense loose soils, you can use mustard with legumes, sweet clover, vetch-oat mixture. Mixed green manure crops will not only plow the soil, but also saturate it with available nutrients.

Of the mineral fertilizers under the onions, nitroammofosk is applied 50-60 g / sq. m. or only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, respectively 25-30 and 15-25 g / sq. m, and in the spring, urea is added for sowing no more than 20-25 g / sq. m.

If the soils are depleted and higher fertilization rates are required, then it is better to add 2/3 of the dose in the fall, and apply the remainder in the spring before planting.

Arbazhek planting rules

Sowing is carried out in the prepared soil in a single row or in 2 - 3 row tapes. In the tape, 8-12 cm are left between the rows and 20-25 cm between the tapes.

In the first method, in a row between the bulbs, the distance can be different:

• When planting "shoulder to shoulder", the planting density is high, since the distance between the sets in a row is 1.0-1.5 cm. With this planting method, 2 thinning is carried out:
• at the first thinning, the distance is increased to 4 cm, and the young onion-feather is used for food;
• after 25-30 days, a second thinning is carried out, leaving a distance between young plants of 7-10 cm.

The second planting method is private. Sevok is planted at a distance in a row after 8-10 cm, between rows - 20 cm. Thinning is not carried out. Arbazheyka is placed in the furrows vertically up to a depth of 4 cm, covered with soil by 2.0-2.5 cm from above and slightly compacted with the palm of your hand.

Onion greens

Onion care during the growing season

It is very important during the growing season to keep the soil moist, loose, and free of weeds. Weeds obscure the bulbous zone at the base of the plants and provoke the accumulation of fungal infection. Post-irrigation mulching of onions is mandatory. The crust formed after irrigation is the reason for the uneven provision of moisture to the upper soil layer (sometimes dry, sometimes wet), which reduces the possibility of forming a large bulb. Loosening is only superficial, in wide aisles.When loosening in a row, damage to superficially located roots negatively affects the growth of the bulb. Onions must not be hilled. On the contrary, during the growth of the bulb, the "fashionista" opens her shoulders towards the sun. Timely watering plays a significant role in the formation of a large bulb.

Watering onions

Watering and feeding onions in the first 2-3 months are especially important. Interruptions in the supply of nutrients and a violation of the irrigation regime during this period lead to small heads of onions and a loss of their taste.

Approximate frequency of watering:

• The first month, watering is carried out once a week with the obligatory subsequent loosening and mulching of the crushed mulch. Pests settle under large mulch, fungal infection accumulates. Fine mulch protects the soil from drying out the top layer and quickly decomposes when exposed to moisture. During this period, when watering, the soil is soaked to a 10 cm layer.
• In June, by the growth phase of the bulbs, the number of irrigations is reduced to a 10-day break, but the soil is soaked to a 20-25 cm layer. To avoid stagnant water, watering is carried out with fine spraying.
• In July, watering is carried out every 8-10 days as needed (preventing the soil from drying out in the root layer).
• In the second half of July, the soil is only kept in a moist state, they switch to "dry irrigation". The soil is loosened, mulched, be sure to get rid of weeds.
• 2-3 weeks before harvesting, watering is stopped and carefully "bare" the shoulders of the bulbs from the ground. The procedure promotes the maturation of the bulb, especially the stem at the base. Unripe stems in winter are affected by fungal and bacterial rot.

Watering errors

• Watering with high pressure breaks the feather, causing interruptions in the supply of nutrients to the plant, weakens it. The plant gets sick.
• Do not pour cold water on the onion. When watering with water below + 18 ° C, the culture becomes sick with powdery mildew.
• It is necessary to keep the plantings absolutely clean from weeds, preventing them from growing above 5-8 cm.
• On a site clogged with unweed and improperly watered, the root necks of the onion remain juicy, which sharply reduces the keeping quality of the onion.

A bed of onions

Top dressing onions

The formation of large bulbs requires a fairly large amount of nutrients. Their entry to culture should be uniform, without hunger breaks and overfeeding. It is better to fertilize onions with nutrient solutions. Adding dry dressings is not as effective.

The first feeding of onions

With sufficient basic dressing of the soil, the first feeding of onions can be postponed to June, and if necessary, it is carried out after 2-3 weeks from shoots. Thin light feathers are a signal for feeding.

To carry out top dressing, a spoonful of ammonium nitrate or urea is diluted in 10 liters of warm water. They are applied at the root by 10-12 running meters. If the soil (for various reasons) was not fertilized enough before planting, then the first top dressing is best done with full fertilization, using nitroammofoska, Kemiru-lux, crystallin in the form of a solution (25-30 g / 10 l of water). After fertilizing, the plants must be washed with watering with a fine-mesh nozzle.

Second feeding of onions

The second feeding is carried out in the second decade of June with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In 10 liters of warm water, dissolve 20 and 10 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate and add under the root of the plants. During this period, instead of a phosphorus-potassium mixture, you can once again feed the plants with nitroammophos, increasing the concentration of the solution to 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. Additionally, foliar feeding is carried out with microelements or boron with the addition of ash extract (0.5 l per 10 l of water).

The third feeding of onions

The third feeding is carried out if necessary, if the development of the bulb slows down, The third feeding is carried out when the bulb is the size of a walnut, usually with a solution of superphosphate. In 10 liters of water, 40 g of superphosphate are diluted.The solution consumption is approximately 5 l / sq. m landing area.

It should be noted that onions on fertile and well-seasoned soils with mineral fertilizers can not be fed with fertilizers, limiting themselves to fertilizing with microelements and ash extract.

Onion

Protection of onions from diseases and pests

To protect onions from diseases and pests, plants are treated with biofungicides (against diseases) and bioinsecticides (against pests) for preventive purposes. The most common biofungicides are planriz, gaupsin, alirin-B, trichodermin, glyocladin.To treat pests, actofit, aversectin-C, bitoxybacillin, verticillin, bicol are used. It is better to prepare solutions for processing in tank mixes. The selection of biological products, their dosage and mixing should always be performed according to the instructions. Onions are processed at least 3-5 times during the growing season in the morning. The last treatment can be carried out 2-3 days before harvest. Biologicals are absolutely safe for humans and animals.

Treatments are started at the first visible changes in feather color or plant condition.

Harvesting onions

The beginning of harvesting is determined by the state of the above-ground mass of the onion. Depending on the variety:

• plant leaves turn yellow,
• lie down
• lose turgor, etc.

When harvesting, onions are pulled out of the soil, left for 1-2 weeks under a canopy for final drying. The dried onions are sorted out and dense bulbs with a dry root collar, covered with dry upper scales, are laid for winter storage. Before placing in a container for storage, dried stems are cut 3-5 cm on a stump or braided and hung in a dry, warm place.

Harvesting onions

Thus, the cultivation of onions with a large bulb requires careful implementation of agrotechnical techniques, the main of which are:

• selection of a zoned variety;
• seed quality;
• timeliness of sowing;
• compliance with the rules of care, which include timely watering and feeding, keeping the soil in a moist, weed-free state, with an optimal plant density.

Qualitative fulfillment of the requirements of agricultural technology creates all the prerequisites for obtaining a high yield of large bulbs.

Gardeners have long known that in order to get a good harvest, it is impossible to plant a vegetable crop in the same beds from year to year. Each vegetable takes certain nutrients from the ground, and next year their supply does not have time to replenish, as a result, this leads to a decrease in yield and to obtaining smaller fruits. To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to produce a crop rotation of vegetable crops every year.

The choice of a new place for vegetables must be approached with all responsibility and know exactly which predecessors will safely affect the growth of new products, and which ones, on the contrary, are not advisable to be planted in a certain garden. We will not talk about all vegetable crops, so we have chosen the most popular question and want to give a complete answer to it, namely, after the onion, what can be planted so as not to be disappointed in the harvest and extract the maximum amount of fruits from the soil.

Fatigue: causes

Each vegetable feeds on the same substances, if they are constantly planted in last year's place, this will lead to depletion of the soil. Consequently, after a couple of years, the site will become unsuitable for growing other crops due to the lack of any minerals. Even the application of fertilizers in one season will not correct the situation, since the depleted land very slowly replenishes its reserves and will be able to restore vitality only after two or three years.

In addition, when a plant is planted in the same place, pathogenic bacteria and pest larvae that specialize in this vegetable begin to accumulate in the soil.They are able to infect the garden bed and stay in it for several years in a row, naturally, the fire site will not be reflected in the best way on the planted vegetables, which will lead to the instant death of the root system and fruits.

There is also a risk of allelopathy in plants, because there are thousands of root systems in the soil, which constantly interact with each other. Each root is endowed with certain chemicals and for one type of plant such a "neighborhood" has a positive effect on the growth of the crop, and the other type begins to die. For example, if you plant cabbage next to celery, then the last vegetable will protect the cabbage from the whites.

What to plant after the onion next year?

Onion crops grow in every vegetable garden. This type of plant has been known for its positive properties for a very long time, so every gardener devotes a couple of beds to this particular vegetable. After harvesting onions, gardeners often have problems with the choice of new vegetable crops that can take the place of bulbs, so the question "After the onion, what to plant?" begs on its own. It is worth noting the fact that when planting onions, potash fertilizers are applied to the beds, they contribute to the good growth of turnips and make the soil slightly alkaline, therefore this land is suitable only for certain vegetable crops.

Strawberry

Strawberries are characterized by a slightly alkaline environment, so the bushes will take root well in the place of the bulbs and the substances left by the predecessor will have a positive effect on the yield of berries. Growing strawberry bushes will not be possible if there are tomatoes, cucumbers and legumes in the neighborhood. Raspberries and blackberries are capable of exposing strawberry bushes to strawberry mite infestation and you should not expect a harvest from such a meeting. But parsley and garlic will protect red berries from slugs that appear in wet weather.

Strawberry "Victoria"

What can you plant next year instead of bulbs? Another berry that feels great in the garden where the onion used to grow. To protect strawberries from weevils, it is not advisable to plant bushes next to potatoes and tomatoes. The best neighbors are cabbage, garlic, carrots, radishes and spinach. You can also plant parsley and calendula on the same bed with fragrant berries. It is these herbs that prevent the emergence of nematodes that consume the root system.

Beets and carrots

Next year, you can collect a large harvest of beets and carrots, having previously planted seeds in the garden where the onion culture previously grew. The plants will begin to stimulate good growth if there are beds with tomatoes, beans, peas and spinach next to beets and carrot roots. Note that potatoes, corn, aniseed, celery, and parsley will adversely affect the size of the root vegetables if they grow next to beets and carrots.

Cucumbers and tomatoes

It is advisable to plant these vegetable crops in a new place every year, however, unlike other plants, they are loyal to almost all predecessors, including onions. You can grow a good harvest next year, after harvesting the onion crop, but before planting seedlings or seeds in the soil, you need to fertilize the earth with minerals. Beets, carrots and other root vegetables have a positive effect on tomatoes and cucumbers, so they can be planted nearby.

Cabbage and pumpkin

Cabbage and pumpkin will help not to disturb the crop rotation. Each vegetable grows well in the place of onions and is distinguished by good germination. In addition, plants need less nutrients, because after the onion crop there are enough of them in the soil, however, it is still recommended to feed in order to grow the largest crop possible. Good neighbors: tomato, carrot and garlic.

Is it possible to plant garlic in place of onions

Onions and garlic feed on the same substances and the length of the rhizome is almost equal, so for garlic crops it is better to choose other predecessors. It is advisable to plant garlic in beds with vegetables such as cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, squash, cereals and garden crops. It is also worth noting that potatoes, beets, eggplant, carrots and radishes have a detrimental effect on garlic, the cloves will not be able to gain vital energy and, naturally, this will lead to a deterioration in yield.

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Planting vegetables after onions in July

If you have planted early varieties of onions on your plot, it means that in July you will harvest, and so that the place in the garden does not remain empty, then you can plant such vegetable crops as: ultra-ripe cabbage, peas, asparagus beans, carrots, etc. early varieties of beets and radish. Towards the end of September, vegetables planted in July will delight you with a good harvest, but they will not be stored for a long time, so it is advisable to eat them first.

Attention! Vegetables sown in July are less susceptible to various diseases and insect attacks.

What to plant after onions in August

What can you plant after onions at the end of summer? Greens, of course! Dill, lettuce, parsley, celery and spinach will instantly grow in the garden bed after the onion harvest. One has only to sow a certain area with seeds, and in a week the first green leaves will appear on the surface. Radish will also be happy with such a predecessor, and until October you will have time to collect juicy roots.

The table of predecessors and followers will help to establish crop rotation.

Siderata

If you grew mid-ripening or late-ripening onions, then the harvest falls at the end of August or the beginning of September, therefore, frosts will begin soon, and you will not be able to plant a new crop immediately after collecting the turnips. Therefore, siderates, or as they are popularly called "Green Doctors", will be able to enrich the soil with useful substances and establish crop rotation. What green manure is better to sow before winter and what effect they have on the soil, let's figure it out. So, what positive qualities should be expected from planted "green doctors":

• a powerful root system perfectly loosens the ground;
• the plant has a detrimental effect on the larvae of pests and on pathogenic spores, thereby purifying and disinfecting the soil;
• preventing the appearance of weeds;
• fertilization of the earth.

Each site has its own green manure, because this plant is divided into 5 species. The cruciferous family (cabbage) fill the earth with phosphorus, sulfur and organic matter, plus it protects plants from wireworms, root rot and nematodes. The complex-colored family is a source of complex-forming, hardly decomposable organic fibers. The enrichment of the land with organic matter, potassium and nitrogen is carried out by the cereal and the hydrophilic family. Buckwheat is able to endow heavy soil with the same substances as cereals.

Attention! The best siderates for onions are the cruciferous family.

How is crop rotation in the field

About growing bulbs in an open field, only one thing is known - a troublesome business. However, there are such craftsmen who are not afraid of difficulties and soon an onion begins to appear on the field. Careful plant care leads to the fact that in the fall the harvest is harvested, and the field is plowed. Further actions depend on the owner, if he wants to plant carrots in an open area, then with the help of a cultivator, they cut the ridges, plant winter carrots and cover with mulch. If the next planting is intended for beets, then after plowing, the site is leveled and left intact until spring. In early spring, beet seeds are sown.

Onion predecessors

We have already figured out what to plant after the onion, and now let's talk about how you can plant the onion so that the fruit yield is good, and after which it is strictly forbidden to plant the bulbs. First of all, it is probably worth saying that the soil should be on the sunny side and not be covered by a shade, it should be full of nutrients, namely potassium and phosphorus. Therefore, the best predecessors after which you need to plant onions are peas, pumpkin, tomato, cabbage and green manure. Usually, planting of onions begins in late April or early May, but if you want to plant in July, then the garden bed after harvesting the early potatoes is the best place for seedlings. Substances left in the ground after vegetable crops such as carrots, cucumbers, garlic and onions can have a negative effect on the turnip.

A good company for onions would be adjacent beds with lettuce, radishes, beets, strawberries, spinach, carrots and cabbage. But next to beans, peas and beans, it is not advisable to plant turnips, because they adversely affect the composition and growth of the vegetable. By the way, the neighborhood with sage and chamomile also negatively affects the fruits of onions.

Can onions be planted next to garlic? This question is often of interest to novice gardeners. Nobody can give a definite answer. Some believe that the smell of garlic serves as a protection for the bulbs and drives the onion fly and weevils away from the turnips. Others argue that such a neighborhood has a detrimental effect on the bulbs, because the garlic culture feeds on the same substances as the onions, so there is a lack of fertilizer, which leads to early yellowing of feathers and medium-sized fruits.

Conclusion

We figured out after which predecessors it is desirable to plant an onion crop and what grows well in the beds after the onion. By following our advice, your harvest will be rich and your soil will always be fresh and rested. Now you just have to remember all the information in order to avoid mistakes in crop rotation and correctly distribute the area for future sowing.

Onions are a vegetable that almost every summer resident grows. In cooking, these sweet or spicy fruits are simply indispensable, because in some recipes, onions are the main ingredient. Before planting seeds in a summer cottage and collecting a good harvest, you need to know what kind of soil the onion loves, what temperature is suitable for planting seedlings in open ground and how to properly plant an onion crop in order to enjoy high yields at the end of the season. Let's consider each stage separately, let's start, perhaps, with the soil and its autumn preparation.

Preparing the soil for spring planting

Before doing land work, you need to choose a place to plant small bulbs. As many gardeners know, bulbs love warmth and light, in the shade the plant will quickly wither and the fruits will be small, so when choosing a site, give preference to the beds in the middle of the garden, next to which there are no trees and no buildings. Found such a place? Great, now you need to check if the soil in the garden is suitable for growing onions. To do this, it is better to use a litmus paper. She will determine the type of soil in no time. It will be very good if your land is sandy or sandy. It is in it that the onion develops a powerful root system and is able to ripen faster before harvesting.

In the fall, the onion bed should be fertilized with ripe manure or ash. There are many nutrients in these components, therefore, it is advisable to apply humus for 1 square meter of 6 kg of fertilizer. Dig up the entire bed to a depth of 20 cm, remembering to remove weeds and other debris that will come across during digging. After fertilization, level the topsoil with a rake and leave it alone until spring.

Attention! The preparation of the garden is an important point, it is from this operation that the yield of fruits depends.

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and it will be possible to go out into the garden, it is recommended to re-dig the area under the onion so that the nutrients are evenly distributed over the top layer of the earth. Now it remains to prepare the onions for planting, wait for the optimal temperature for warming up the soil, plant the crops in open ground and take care of the plant to obtain a juicy, large harvest.

Preparation of planting material

Do not rush to plant onions in the spring, because in order for the germination rate of the seed to be almost 100%, you need to sort out and process the onions with special solutions that will protect the crop from diseases and pests. So, first sort out the low-quality planting material, removing all damaged, dry and diseased specimens. Distribute a good set in different piles in diameter. This will allow you to grow your turnips evenly.

After sorting, hold each group for about three days at a temperature of 35 degrees, if this is not possible, then simply ignite the onion for about 4 hours at 40 degrees in the oven. Processing onions before planting thus activates metabolic processes and improves germination. After drying, transfer the seedlings to the diluted fertilizer for 1/3 days, then dip the seedlings in a weak manganese solution for 5-10 minutes, rinse the onions under running water and you can safely plant the onions on an unprotected surface.

How to properly plant onions on a turnip

You have already done the basic procedures, prepared the seedlings and dug up the garden bed. Now is the time to plant the onion in open ground. In order for the planting process to be successful and soon juicy green feathers appeared on the beds, you need to choose a time when the soil warms up to 12 degrees and will be able to accept "tenants". Usually, spring planting falls in the third decade of April or the first decade of May. For farming, it is better to choose cloudy, dry weather and you need to start from the land. You already know how to prepare a bed for seeding, all that remains is to make holes or grooves and plant the planting material. In the first and second options, it is important to follow these rules:

• the distance from the sevka to the sevka should be at least 15 cm;
• the distance between rows should not exceed 30 cm;
• the planting depth of the seedling is 7-10 cm.

After planting, be sure to water the beds with settled water at room temperature. If you have planted the seedlings too close, then after a while, thin out the rows, otherwise the plant will not have enough nutrients during the growing season, the growth of the bulbs will noticeably deteriorate and it is likely that the root system of the turnips will become entangled with each other.

Planting onions in July

If you want to harvest the onion twice in the summer, we recommend planting a second set in July. However, this option is only suitable for southern cities, where the summer season ends in mid or late September. In order for the onion to grow, you need to use only early ripening varieties, which will just finish ripening by the end of August. How to plant onions in July? The same as in May. The soaked seed is sown in the prepared recesses and after the leaves appear, the usual care of the plant begins.

Sowing with seeds

It is known that onions are a perennial plant, so you can get a turnip only in the second or third year. However, some gardeners buy sets and grow onions in one season. Other summer residents grow onions by planting seeds in the ground, this process delays the harvest, but you can grow high-quality seedlings, which will bring large fruits of onion heads next year. It is also recommended to process the seeds before planting, and we will now find out how to do this correctly.

First, soak the seeds in warm water for a day. Soaking the onions in a convenient container before planting will help you sort out empty seeds. It is they who will end up on the surface of the bowl, and the good ones will settle to the bottom of the dish.After 24 hours, drain the water from the container along with the floating seeds, they will definitely not be useful to us, because they will not be useful. Transfer the rest of the planting material to gauze or cotton cloth, remove in the shade until crumbly. Then process the seeds with a manganese solution and dry them again. The onion seeds are ready for planting.

Attention! If there is no manganese, and you do not know what to soak the onion in before planting, use copper sulfate, after dissolving the crystals in water.

For sowing seeds, make grooves in the garden bed, 2-4 cm deep. Leave the row spacing from 10 to 30 cm. Then pour abundant hot water over the grooves to perform antibacterial soil treatment and sow the seeds at a distance of 1-3 cm from each other. Water the bed again with water at room temperature, cover it with foil. After the appearance of the first leaves, the need for shelter will disappear.

Outdoor onion care

How to properly care for this plant is known mainly to experienced gardeners, but we want to remind you once again what care is. First of all, the onion needs moisture, so water it once a week with plenty of settled water. If the summer is dry, then increase watering up to two times in 7 days. In general, make sure that the ground is always slightly moistened and then problems with growing onions will not begin. After each "water" procedure, loosen the top layer of the soil, so as not to violate air permeability. Do not forget to remove weeds and process the onions with copper sulfate to prevent infection with fungal and viral diseases. For the entire growing season, feed the plant three times with organic or mineral fertilizers.

Attention! In July, watering is gradually reduced so that the onions have time to ripen before harvesting.

Chinese way of growing bulbs

Planting onions in the Chinese way has become popular only because of the high yield of fruits, whose sizes can break all records. First of all, prepare the beds, or rather the ridges. Raise each ridge by 15-20 cm, leave a distance of at least 30 cm between the rows.Now prepare the material for planting, for this, spread the set on a baking sheet in one layer and heat it in the oven for 12 hours at 40 degrees. Then remove the husk from the set, cut off the dry neck and soak the material in warm water for a day. What to soak onions before planting for better germination? In water with slurry. Such a solution will saturate the seedlings with nitrogen, and the plant will grow better. Then you can plant the onions in the ground.

To know when to plant onions using the Chinese method, you need to distribute the onions into fractions before processing the seedlings. The first group, which has not reached a diameter of 10 mm, is best planted before winter. The second is 15 mm, ideal for planting in spring, namely in early April. The third is 20 mm, it is advisable to plant in early May, the rest of the sets are suitable only for forcing onions on a feather.

Sevok has been prepared, let's now see how to plant onions in the Chinese way, and how to properly care for the seedlings so that there are large bulbs. Stick the onions into moistened grooves 2-3 cm, sprinkle with earth and lightly tamp the top layer with your hands. Water the ridge liberally. Loosen the ground by re-circulating air. It is advisable to carry out the procedure early in the morning, while the sun does not bake as much as during the day.

During cultivation, turnips will need simple maintenance, which consists of watering weekly, removing weeds, loosening the soil, and applying fertilizers. It is also worth noting that three weeks before harvesting (usually in July), gradually stop watering, free the turnip from the ground by half, and leave only the root system in the ground a week before harvesting.

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04.05.2018

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How to plant winter onions?

Winter varieties mean planting a plant for the winter. Therefore, let's find out how to prepare the soil, what fertilizers are best to apply before planting an onion crop, is it possible to plant seedlings a week before frost, how to care for a plant before mulching, and in general, when to plant onions in order to harvest green feathers in early spring, and get juicy turnip.

The plant should be planted one month before frost. This framework was not set for nothing, because if the sevok does not acquire a root system before the arrival of cold weather, then the plant will die, and if green feathers make their way through the soil ahead of time, this can lead to early shooting. Therefore, it is so important to know the exact date of planting, given your climate. In areas with short summers, planting is best done in mid or late August. In the southern regions, onions can be planted in the fall, but no later than mid-October.

In order not to disrupt the crop rotation, choose a non-shaded garden on the sunny side, where vegetables such as zucchini, tomatoes, cucumbers, peas, potatoes or legumes previously grew. Dig up the selected place with 6 kg humus and 20 g superphosphate per 1 sq. m. On each bed, form grooves, 5-8 cm deep, the distance between which should not be less than 25 cm.

Before planting the seedlings, sort through, sift out the spoiled material, divide the rest into piles by diameter, for sowing before winter, an onion with a diameter of no more than a centimeter is ideal, the rest of the material is subject to spring cultivation. Process the sevok in rose water with the addition of a potassium permanganate crystal or use boric acid. Keep the planting material in the prepared solutions for about 2 hours, then rinse them with water. Next, dip it into a growth stimulator and plant it in the grooves, leaving a distance of 10-15 cm between the onions. Sprinkle the onion with earth and pour plenty of water.

In addition to sevka, you can also plant seeds. To do this, fill the planting material with water for a couple of hours, then remove the seeds floating on the surface, they are empty and will not give a crop, dip the settled seed into a growth accelerator, transfer it to gauze or cotton material. Dry until friable and plant them in grooves to a depth of no more than 3.5 cm, leave a distance between sowing 5-10 cm.

Attention! In time planted material, before winter, there is an immunity to onion flies and to shooting.

Until late autumn, take care of the plant, water, loosen the soil, remove weeds, and in the middle of autumn mulch the topsoil. As mulch, you can use: cut grass, spruce needles, compost, sawdust, nettles, bark, wood chips or other materials that you have at home. By the way, rotting straw is also well suited for mulching, it slows down the growth of the plant, but it is better to lay it on the garden bed after strengthening the root system.

Now you shouldn't have any questions about how to plant onions in the fall or spring, because our detailed instructions will help you choose the right place for the garden, sets or seeds for planting, and take proper care of the plant. Considering our recommendations, your efforts will not be in vain, and at the end of the season, you will rejoice in the harvest you have received.