The best varieties of multi-root onions

Did you know that not every type of onion is suitable for winter forcing? Do you know what characteristics a good planting material should have?

In this article, we will tell you what onions should be for forcing on a feather and offer some great options.

Will any onion be good for forcing?

Almost any type of onion can be feather-fed. But most of them will "please" with only a few green leaves. And the greatest yield can be obtained only from multi-primordial varieties (3-5 leaves are formed from each primordium).

When choosing planting material, you should pay attention to the bulbs themselves. Good specimens are distinguished by the following features:

• diameter - 3-4 cm,
• weight - about 50 g,
• healthy,
• intact,
• non-sprouted (sprouted are planted separately).

It is also possible to plant deformed bulbs with multiple growth points, which will produce more greenery.

The best varieties of onions for forcing on a feather

Among the good varieties, there are always the best ones, with which we will introduce you. Choose the variety you like and enjoy the juicy and fresh greens all winter long.

Arzamas local

Mid-season medium-germinated variety. It has dense, rounded or elongated-rounded bulbs with white flesh and dark yellow outer scales with a brown tint. The variety is cold-resistant, but it is strongly affected by peronosporosis and damaged by onion flies.

Use	Taste	Growing method	Bulb weight (g)	Keeping quality
	spicy		40-90	good

Bessonovsky local

Early maturing medium-ear (2-3) grade. It has dense round-flat or round-flat bulbs with upward running up with white flesh and yellow outer scales. Resistant to major onion diseases, but not resistant to downy mildew.

Use	Taste	Growing method	Bulb weight (g)	Keeping quality
	spicy		35-46	excellent

Pogarsky local superior

Early maturing medium-ear (2-3) grade. It has flat or round-flat bulbs running up and down with dry yellow scales of different shades. Resistant to major onion diseases, but not resistant to downy mildew.

Use	Taste	Growing method	Bulb weight (g)	Keeping quality
	spicy		30-70	good

Rostov local superior

Early ripening 3-4 primordial variety. It has rounded-flat bulbs running upwards, the outer scales are golden yellow. The variety is cold-resistant and disease-resistant. Peronosporosis is moderately affected.

Use	Taste	Growing method	Bulb weight (g)	Keeping quality
	spicy		30-60	excellent

Spassky local superior

Mid-season multi-primordial (7-10) grade. It has round-flat bulbs with yellow-brown dry scales. Cold-resistant, but in some years it can be severely affected by feathers and cervical rot, damaged by an onion fly and an onion lurker.

Use	Taste	Growing method	Bulb weight (g)	Keeping quality
	spicy		40-55	good

Strigunovsky local

Early maturing medium-ear (2-4) grade.It has dense, rounded bulbs with a slight downward and upward run, white pulp and dry scales, yellow with a pink or brown shade. In some years it is strongly affected by diseases and pests.

Use	Taste	Growing method	Bulb weight (g)	Keeping quality
	spicy		45-80	excellent

Chernihiv 4

Medium late medium germinated variety. It has dense, rounded bulbs with white flesh and dry scales, yellow with a brown tint. Susceptible to peronosporosis, it is affected by cervical rot to a moderate extent, by an onion fly it is damaged above average.

Use	Taste	Growing method	Bulb weight (g)	Keeping quality
	spicy		50-55	good

Expert advice

• To stimulate the regrowth of feathers and increase their number, before planting the bulb, incubate for several days at a temperature of 35-40 ° C. After that, shorten the necks by the shoulders and moisten with warm water (40-50 ° C). Leave the bulbs in a damp cloth for 3 days.
• The bridge planting method is great for forcing onions on a feather. Its essence is as follows: medium-sized bulbs are planted in grooves tightly to each other (at a distance of no more than 2 cm), sprinkled with humus or garden soil with a layer of 1-3 cm and watered thoroughly.
• If you wish, you can plant small and rotten bulbs separately. They will not give very much greenery, but it is better than nothing.
• When planting bulbs that have already begun to grow feathers, give them more space - there should be about 2-3 cm between the bulbs and the rows.

How to grow onions on a feather in a plastic bottle?

Forcing onions on a feather in a plastic bottle - a very budget and easy way. After all, a suitable container can be found in almost any apartment.

Take plastic bottle volume of 5 liters, cut off the neck so that you can stick your hand into it. Cut holes in the walls of the bottle slightly smaller than the diameter of the onions. In this way, the bulbs will act as a cork to prevent soil from spilling out of the bottle.

Pour soil into the bottle up to the level of the lower holes, insert the bulbs into the slots from the inside and cover with soil to the next level. So gradually fill the bottle with the onions and soil, repeating the same steps. Then either leave the bottle as it is, or cover it with the cut-off lid. Don't forget to water the planting.

Such a homemade garden bed not only provides a supply of healthy vitamin greens, but also looks very original and attractive in the kitchen.

From the video you will learn how to plant onions on a feather at home.

Any type of onion and most perennial onions can be used for forcing on the windowsill. But gardeners have long found out that a much larger yield can be obtained from multi-primordial varieties that grow almost in a bush. Such varieties do not grow in one feather, but from five or more points.

The optimum material for forcing should be 4-5 cm in diameter, weighing 50-60 g. Bulbs should be healthy and intact, preferably not germinated. Sprouted bulbs can also be used, but separately from non-sprouted ones.

Advice. Choose multi-primordial varieties and you will definitely have a good harvest.

VARIETIES OF MULTI-GERMINED ONION

Arzamas local - cold-resistant multi-primordial variety. May be severely affected by peronosporosis and onion fly.

Bessonovsky local - medium germinated variety, resistant to diseases, except for peronosporosis. Produces fairly high yields of greens.

Pogarsky local superior - also a medium-germinated variety, gives two or three points of feather growth. Resistant to major diseases.

Rostov local superior - a three-four-prickled variety. It is considered cold and disease resistant. Above average yield

Spassky local superior - a multi-primordial variety, gives seven to ten points of growth, but can be affected by diseases and onion flies.

Strigunovsky local - medium-germ variety, gives two to four points of growth. Can be severely affected by disease.

In order for the planting material to give a feather earlier, before planting it must be kept for several days at a temperature of + 35 ... + 40 ° C. After that, the bulbs are shortened by "shoulders" and, moistening, kept for another three days.

If necessary, you can plant rotten bulbs on forcing, but separately. They will give a little greenery, but it's better than nothing.

If you have to plant sprouted bulbs, give them more space - about 2 to 3 cm between rows.

source

Onions are often called shallots.... And they are dismissive of him - they say, this is only for "brilliant green", and the bulbs are small.

However, gardeners have developed many varieties adapted to local climatic conditions, resistant to diseases and pests. And even with fairly large bulbs.

After 6 years of testing in southern Siberia, it is time to write about some of the most attractive varieties of multi-primordial onions. First of all, during all this time, the onion did not get sick even once (they did not spray with anything, they did not use chemistry), however, it was partially affected by the onion fly.

I have definitely become a leader Aristocratic - in terms of marketable weight of one onion, it is slightly inferior to ordinary onions, but it has 5-6 bulbs in the nest and is stored better than most popular varieties.

Old Russian yellow - flat-round, yellow, leveled bulbs, weigh about 40-50 g on average, 4-5 bulbs in the nest.

Old Believer - slightly more rounded, similar in weight and number of bulbs to Old Russian Yellow. Old Russian red differs from yellow only in color.

Chipoluccio - rounded brownish onions, 4-6 pieces in a nest, each weighing from 30 g to 60 g.

Golden Old Believers forms 4-5 bulbs in the nest, of which a couple of small, 30 grams, the rest are larger, up to 70 g.

See also: Planting onions by dividing the bulbs (family onion multi-bud)

What are the advantages of multi-priming onions?

1. Several bulbs grow from one bulb every season (and there is no need to buy seed every year).
2. You can use, as they say, both tops and roots, unlike other varieties of shallots, which give a lot of leaf mass with practically no bulb, and the common onion, which forms little "green".
3. The onion rings of these varieties are drier than that of ordinary onions, and therefore, it is stored better, practically without losing its taste.

The most popular question is what size the bulbs grow and how many are in the nest. With an average yield, the number of bulbs ranges from 3 to 7 (rarely more), half of which are medium and small, up to 50 g, and one or two “heavyweights” of 100 g and more. For planting, use medium bulbs up to 50 g, those that are larger are used for food. The smallest ones, up to 20 g, are rare, we immediately throw them away. However, if there are fewer bulbs left in the nest (say, when we broke out a couple of bulbs during the growth process), they grew up to 100 g each.

The agricultural technology of this onion is almost the same as that of the onion. The best predecessors are all types of legumes, cucumbers, tomatoes, courgettes or potatoes.

The bulbs are planted as early as possible in spring, the earth will barely warm up a little. Previously, they are soaked for a couple of hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and treated with a contact fungicide. But for winter planting, shallots are absolutely unsuitable - by June the bulbs in 100% of cases shoot and do not give either a turnip or a feather, and the onion does not divide at the same time. You don't even use such bulbs as seed bulbs.

By the way, severe cold weather in May 2017 provoked active onion shooting in our farm.

To protect against onion flies, we made transverse grooves with a hoe in the garden bed, slightly pushing the ground to the sides, and added ash and humus there (just not fresh manure). Then they laid out the soaked onions for a couple of hours along the grooves, pressing them slightly, and sprinkled them with the harvested earth on top.The resulting ridges hid the bulbs at a depth of 5-7 cm. Thus, the onion fly larvae could not reach them in May, and later the June rains eroded the ridge, and the onions came out.

The planting pattern for multi-root onions is slightly less common than for onions; we left the distance between plants in rows 15-20 cm.

Reference by topic: Onions and shallots for turnips and greens

Further care for the onions was reduced to weeding and watering in the absence of rain for a long time. With spring fertilization, no further fertilizing is required, otherwise the onion will fatten. Before harvesting for two weeks, do not water in any case - the feather should be as dry as possible.

We started harvesting multi-pronged onions a week earlier than onions, after the fallen feather turns golden. When harvesting, the bulbs were immediately separated from each other, but the feather was not cut off. After full (monthly) drying, the ends of the dried feather were cut off, leaving a neck of 5-6 cm.

The bulbs were stored at home in ordinary boxes with a layer of 20-30 cm until spring (shrinkage and rot are eaten by no more than 10%). Better yet, store it cold, at a temperature of 2-5 °. In a word, it is stored, like ordinary onions, even in stockings, even in braids, even in boxes, there is no difference, the main thing is to avoid large changes in temperature and high humidity in the room.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

Multi-root onions and shallots for turnips and green: Growing multi-root onions and shallots ... Growing old varieties of onions: Old and forgotten onions ... and ... How to grow shallots: Growing shallots Shallots is close to ... Planting and growing shallots - expert advice: How to create favorable conditions for ... Onions - growing in Western Siberia: Onions - growing in ...

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Content:

Choosing a variety for planting onions on greens

When choosing a variety of onions for greens, you need to know that if there is only one formed bud in the cut onion, then there will be little feather from it. Therefore, there are special varieties of onions that are used specifically for growing thick and juicy greens.

The shallots are characterized by high quality feathers and dense abundant greens. The yield of this variety is one of the highest. It is not for nothing that it is called the shrike, since one shallot nest can give up to 30 small onions. This species does not like abundant watering. Pearl leek attracts with wide leaves, like garlic with a delicate taste and smell. Egyptian, or Canadian onions are quite unpretentious and surpass the baton in quality of feathers. The resistance of the variety to frost is very high, it is not afraid even of severe cold weather.

All varieties have their pros and cons, they are usually chosen depending on the climate, taste and place of cultivation.

Before planting, the selected bulbs are soaked for 24 hours, dipped in warm water. Then the tops are cut in order to speed up the appearance of the green feather and increase the yield.

The prepared onions are distributed into grooves at a distance of up to four centimeters and simply level the bed with a rake. Between the grooves - from twenty centimeters.

After the first shoots appear, the plants are thinned out, leaving a distance of up to 5 centimeters between them.

Growing onions on a feather in a greenhouse

Water the onion during the growing period about 4 to 5 times, adding mineral fertilizers between waterings. Greens are removed when the feather reaches a height of more than 30-40 centimeters.

Top dressing of onions:

To prevent the plant from catching a fungal disease, it is better to feed it with potassium salt in time. Some varieties of onions (chives) respond well to the introduction of lime and humus.

The storage of greens is carried out in a cool place, it is possible in the refrigerator in sealed polyethylene bags.

This storage will keep the feather green and juicy for up to two months. Without packaging, the onions will quickly turn yellow and wilt.

More information can be found in the video.

Family, or multi-bud, onions are propagated vegetatively - by daughter bulbs. Since the harvest for food and planting is not always enough, our author decided to use the division of the bulbs.

I thought: why not normalize the nest already at the stage of planting the mother bulb? It is arranged like this: from the outside it is protected by dry integumentary scales. Various infections and pests are often hidden under them. Therefore, before planting, I completely cleaned 10 bulbs from dry scales, soaked them for 20 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and washed them in clean water. The scales (dry and juicy) are modified leaves, and the buds are attached to the stem of the bulb - the bottom.

It is important to plant the onions in the garden as early as possible.

With a lack of moisture during the growing season, the growth of leaves stops, and the bulbs begin to form at the stage in which they were caught by the drought. Therefore, I try to land before May 5, or better - on Luke's Day (St. Luke). If April is warm, I plant earlier - when the soil warms up to 5 ° and stops smearing.

I have permanent beds, 0.9 m wide with 0.5 m aisles. I prepare them for onions as follows: after harvesting potatoes, I sow winter rye. The whole next season, it grows to full ripeness and so it leaves before winter. In the spring, he raked the straw into the aisles, slightly loosened the top layer with the "Strizh" cultivator and a furrow at a distance of 20 cm from each other and 15 cm from the edges of the bed made three grooves 3-5 cm deep. with a mixture of ash and the preparation Zemlin (analogue of Diazinon) from an onion fly (1 liter of ash and 1 package of the preparation is enough for 4 grooves 10 m long) and in a checkerboard pattern with an interval of 23 cm spread the halves of the onion. For comparison, I placed 10 whole bulbs on another bed. The planted onion spud with a rake on both sides, like a potato. It is warm and humid under these "dunes".

It is important that during the growth of the onion there is enough moisture in the soil: the plant continues to increase the number of leaves and their size and is in no hurry to form a storage organ - the bulb.

Onions ripen by the end of July. I pull it out when the dew dries up. All day he lies in the beds, and in the evening I take him to the attic to dry. Even if it is damp and cold during harvesting, family onions ripen well, dry out under a roof, and do not threaten germination. And after a couple of weeks, I manually scrub the leaves from the bulbs. After the onion, I sow the pea-oat mixture. I leave the grown plants before winter, and in the spring, without removing their remnants, I plant potatoes.

This is explained by the fact that in each half there are fewer primordia than there were in the whole bulb, and the feeding area remained the same. Therefore, up to 4 large commercial bulbs were formed in the nest.

Planting onions with delenki onions: expert commentary

If someone wants to grow onions in a similar way, they must take care of their protection from phytopathogens. Note that S. Kleopatrov correctly chose the predecessors of onions in the crop rotation - potatoes and rye have no common diseases with onions.

The author of the article grows a multi-primordial variety of shallots - 8-10 bulbs per nest. However, there are many modern varieties with fewer bulbs per nest (pcs.): Albik and Bonilla (4-8), Miner and Cascade (5-6), Sibiryak (4-6), Uralsky 40 (3-4). When growing these yielding varieties, you will not need to remove the bulbs from the nests during the growing season, and most likely you will not need to cut the bulbs lengthwise. It is quite possible that new varieties with a high potential for productivity on a high agricultural background will give a good harvest with less labor costs and a lower risk of disease.

V. KOKAREVA, breeder

The onion is stored in the apartment until the next harvest. In the spring I bring him to the dacha.First, I rip it open with a rake, make a groove across the bed with a hand plow, add a little ash and mix it with the ground (our soil is loam). And I begin to prepare the onion for planting: I peel it off, then, if there is not enough onion for planting, I cut the large one in half. I cut off the top from above - a little, to a white layer. I pour warm water into a container and put the onion for two hours, then I drain the water and pour warm water into another container.

I spread potassium permanganate in it until dark crimson and put onions for 30 minutes. after which I immediately rinse with clean water and place in a saline solution: 1/2 cup (faceted) for 1 bucket of water (10 l). Then I rinse with clean water, and as soon as it drains, I start planting.

I will plant and cover with compost, level the garden with my gloved hands. The onion grows, does not get sick. I water in moderation. I feed once with an infusion of grass with ash: 1 bucket for 1 bucket of water. Note that onions, garlic, peas, and beans should not be fed with nettles.

I dig out the red onion 3-4 and Zolotinka on August 10-12, a week after the feather begins to turn yellow and lie down. It is easy to dig out, the onions are all at the top.

Planting onions "with a cut"

I want to talk about the onion, or rather, the family onion. I do not know why, but many do not want to get involved with him. Yes, the onion fly loves him more (maybe not by chance?), But there are many ways to protect against it (they also write a lot about them). The very fact that family onions are more productive than a turnip (at least five times!) Speaks in its favor.

I'll tell you about one more discovery. Everyone, probably, noticed: sometimes 2-3 bulbs grow from the planted set. Here I am

and I thought: what if you collect this paired bow separately and watch it? I took the heads up to 3 cm, scalded them with boiling water (in a basket) before planting (so as not to go to the arrow) and planted them on a separate bed (or in a separate row). Care is normal. And what I will say: almost all the onions sprouted in pairs, some even gave three sprouts, but somewhere one at a time. In any case, the yield is higher than from individuals. Well, now about scalding in more detail. Sometimes small bulbs grow from the seedlings. After drying, I use a vernier caliper to sort the heads up to 3 cm, store them (I sign the size on a piece of paper), and plant them in the spring after scalding. Result - no arrows. Try it!

I start cleaning in early August - again, if the weather permits. I cut off the feather immediately and dry it on bed nets. I often stir up, so I have it clean. I collect 6-8 buckets from two beds, every year in a different way. Large (100-140 g) is used for food, small (50-60 g) I select for seeds. The photo shows which onion grows. I select 250-280 heads for seeds, I plant 200 pieces in two beds. And about 50 pieces go to planting around the perimeter of the garden with carrots - we use this onion for feathers in the summer, we do not touch it on the beds.

Lyubov Omsk region

Growing green onions from seedlings and sampling. The cheapest green onion is obtained by growing it from onion sets and a sample weighing 20 ... 40 grams. The best results with this method are given by local, especially multi-primordial varieties, as well as shallots. The best results are obtained when using a multi-pronged large onion selection (3 ... 4 centimeters in diameter).

To increase the yield of onions for greens during spring planting of a large sample, it is advisable to cut off the dry neck of the bulbs to the shoulders and soak them in warm (30 ... 35 degrees) water for a day. The use of this preparation method also makes it possible to reduce the onion forcing period by 5 ... 7 days.

After rooting of the bulbs, top dressing is performed with a complete mineral fertilizer at the rate of 40 grams of ammonium nitrate, 40 grams of superphosphate, and 15 grams of potassium chloride per bucket of water. Watering is done as needed. When the leaves reach a length of 40 centimeters, the onions are harvested.

Planting in a greenhouse is carried out in the same way as in a greenhouse. But the height of the greenhouse stuffing should be slightly lower than usual, so that there is enough space between the frames and the ground for the growth of leaves. At first, until the leaves reach a length of 7 ... 8 centimeters, the mats from the greenhouses do not need to be removed. In the middle lane, planting is carried out starting from the second half of February, in the south - from January. The application of fertilizing and watering is carried out in the same way as in greenhouses.

Water the plants with heated water. No lighting is required before the leaves begin to grow back and the boxes can be stacked.After the beginning of the regrowth of the leaves, the boxes are transferred to the light and watered abundantly. The greens are ready to cut about two weeks after planting. If using large enough bulbs, cutting can be done twice.

Green onions are successfully grown in an aquatic culture, that is, without soil (for example, on a jar of water), since the supply of nutrients available in the bulb is quite enough for the formation of several leaves.

Harvesting green onions. Harvesting for greens begins when the length of the leaf reaches 30 ... 40 centimeters. The onions are harvested by hand with a garden pitchfork. The harvest of green onions grown from seeds is harvested 50 ... 60 days after germination, and from seedlings and sampling - 30 ... 40 days after the beginning of the regrowth of leaves. By this time, the sowing onion forms 11 ... 14 leaves and reaches a height of 20 ... 25 centimeters, and the onion from the set and the sample should have 18 ... 22 leaves up to 35 ... 40 centimeters high.

Green onions grown from seeds are harvested when the plants reach a height of 25 ... 30 centimeters.

Green onion feather always attracts not only by its bright, attractive appearance with its juiciness, but also by the benefits that its constant use brings. Especially in early spring, it will support and save the human body from colds with vitamin C. What variety to choose for growing in a greenhouse and open field?

These include the following:

The slime is recognized by the wide leaves of a delicate structure, with a faint smell of garlic. Refers to frost-resistant, early ripening varieties. Slime grows well in greenhouses, where you can harvest a large harvest all year round. Shnitt has narrow delicate leaves that never coarse, have a delicate aroma. Loves to grow in the sun, loves moist loamy soils. The widespread batun is perennial, giving greenery 3 times per season, but there is also an annual species with a one-time harvest. Grows constantly in one place for 5 years, loves fertile soil, not sour. Its peculiarity is that even a densely sown plant is famous for its high yield.

Growing onions for greens in the open field

The varieties of onions described above are used as planting material either in late autumn before severe frosts, or in early spring after the appearance of thawed patches. Only onions are selected for growing greens, which have numerous rudiments and a size from three to four centimeters in diameter.

There are several planting methods:

1. The bulbs, laid close to each other, look like a small bridge, on top of which fertile soil is poured in a layer of 3 centimeters. This method requires more than 10 kilograms of seed per square meter.

• Onions for greens must be fed. especially during the growing season. Wood ash scattered on the garden bed will bring effective benefits.
• Fertilizing is most often carried out in the evening, when the coolness comes.
• It is necessary to try to prevent mineral fertilizers from falling on the vegetable leaf, as this can harm it.
• We select planting material for forcing onions for greens. For planting material, shallots, batun, chives are best suited. Multilayer varieties (southern) and onion salad are perfect. For forcing onions onto feathers, bulbs with a diameter of 3-4 cm and weighing from 30 to 60 g are selected. If you want to create conveyor cultivation, then it is worth picking up several batches of different sizes and varieties.
• After you have selected the material for forcing onions for greens, it should be prepared. The first step is to awaken the bulb. In the greenhouse, planting material is laid out in a heap and moistened with warm water. Then everything is covered with mats, burlap or agrofibre. The bulbs are kept for 3-5 days at a temperature of about 20 ° C.
• You can use manure to speed up germination. It is also allowed to use a solution of chicken manure or ammonium nitrate. For 4-5 hours, the bulbs are soaked in the prepared solution.You can also awaken the onion by cutting it 1/4 of the height.
• For forcing green onions, it is necessary to create the correct microclimate in the greenhouse. The first step is to select a suitable soil. The land must be fertile with good water-physical properties. The use of peat or peat mixture is allowed. To neutralize the soil, lime is added a couple of weeks before planting. Before planting, you should also water the soil well so that it sags.
• It is necessary to plant the planting material very tightly. The consumption rate of bulbs per square meter is about 20 bulbs. They are planted with the bottom down, the resulting gaps are covered with soil on a layer of 3 cm. Then everything is well watered with warm water.
• The optimum temperature in winter is 20 ° C, humidity should be within 75-80%. If the temperature is increased, then the process will go faster, but as a result there will be a lot of under-catch.
• As for feeding, then already on the tenth day after regrowth, you can begin to fertilize. For these purposes, a 1% solution of ammonium nitrate, urea or other water-soluble fertilizers is suitable.
• The greenhouse lighting for forcing onions can be natural; it is necessary to additionally illuminate with lamps only on cloudy days or to extend the daylight hours. The more light in the greenhouse, the more resilient and well-colored feathers will be.