What kind of lining is better?

Lining is the perfect finish for any space. With its help, you can emphasize the natural beauty of the interior. The warmth of wood will make your home cozy. Wooden walls will emphasize the unity with nature. Someone says that these are relics of the past, but they are not.

Content:

• Views
• EXTRA
• Grade A
• Grade B
• Grade C
• Comparison

When choosing and buying this material, you need to pay attention to the class of the product. Choosing the right kind of lining will help you save money when decorating your premises.

So, if you want to use this material to decorate the utility room, then it is not at all necessary to buy an expensive one. In this case, it is advisable to take category B or C. It is impossible to answer which grade of lining is better, without having an idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe area of ​​its application.

Views

The difference between varieties is primarily based on the presence or absence of external defects. All products are manufactured using the same technology. Separation occurs after sorting. Read more in the article - types of lining from A to Z.

In total, according to GOST, 4 types are distinguished:

• Premium or Extra (premium grade)
• Class A (1st grade);
• Class B (grade 2);
• Class C (grade 3).

Video - how you can be fooled when selling:

Lining of class "Extra" or "Premium"

This category has the highest price. On visual inspection, you will not notice any defects. Without a hitch - it's about her. Typically, these webs are produced by splicing.

If this method was not used, then it would cost fabulous money, since very few ideal boards are obtained from a single piece of wood. This material is smooth to the touch. You will not notice any knots or chips.

Manufacturers often vacuum pack it. This is done to reduce the risk of chipping and deformation during transportation. This type is considered elite. They are not ashamed to sheathe the rich interiors of a country house. Fasteners are usually sold in the kit. To you no need to adjust it during installation - it will fix perfectly.

When buying, do not trust the manufacturer's inscriptions. Check the category by personal inspection. If the seller refuses this request, it is better not to take it, as he knows about the trick. It also happens that perfect boards are placed on top in the package, and lower quality ones are hidden inside.

When mounting, use only special fasteners so as not to damage the material. Varnish is the perfect finish for this category. It will allow you to further reveal the beauty of the tree and emphasize its undeniable advantages.

Lining class A

It is in many ways similar to its more expensive brother. GOST determines the type of lining, therefore, comparing products from different manufacturers, you can see discrepancies in the quality of production.

Class A finishing material for some, sometimes better than the Premium category for other manufacturers. In this case, focus on the appearance of the product.

It is distinguished by a small number of defects... There are no “falling out” knots.If there are cracks, then they are not through and occupy an insignificant percentage of the total volume of the board. The core takes no more than 20%.

There should be no rot or blue on such a product. Black knots are also not allowed.

This type is used for front finishing work. Defects do not need to be shaded with paint. An excellent option for decorating it is varnish. It emphasizes the natural "shapes" of the product. Oils and wax will also work.

Premium and Class A are the grades of lining that are most suitable for finishing residential premises.

Class B

Manufacturers still use the name 2nd grade. This product contains visible and significant defects.

In this category, unevenness in the locking part (at the end) is permissible. Although this does not really interfere with installation.

Size of defects (chips, dents, gouges and cracks) should not exceed 3 cm by 60 cm running meter... On the finished product, you can find blueness (the value should not exceed 10%), resins, knots and core.

However, cracks should not be through and protrude into the butt end. Most of the defects are of a factory nature. Slight rot (no more than 10%) and wormholes (no more than 3 per linear meter) are possible.

In order to make the marriage less noticeable, special grouting and painting are used. The latter is preferable in dark tones.

This option is considered the most budgetary. It is available to a wide range of people.

Class C

This option is the lowest quality and, accordingly, the most affordable.

Scope of application - rough work and utility rooms. Requires a large fit during installation and the complexity of painting to tidy up the surface during finishing.

The percentage of defects on the surface is off the charts. They also include falling out black knots, through cracks, chips, remnants of the bark and core.

Some manufacturers classify frankly defective products in this category, although according to GOST this should not be. A rare specialist will agree to work with such material. During installation, great efforts will be expended to eliminate imperfections that make up most of the surface.

Comparative characteristics

Here are the varieties and description of the lining:

	Extra	BUT	IN	WITH
Knots	Not allowed	Light knots are possible if they are healthy and do not fall out. No more than 1 per running meter	Healthy knots in any quantity. If dropped, then no more than 1.5 cm in diameter and no more than 1 per running meter	Unlimited
Cracks	Not allowed	Not end-to-end	Not end-to-end	Any
Core	If only in very small volumes (3-5%)	No more than 20%	Allowed	Allowed
Rot	Not allowed	Not allowed	No more than 10% of the total area	In any size
Wormhole	Not allowed	Not allowed	No more than 10% of the total area	Allowed
Resin pockets	Not allowed	Length no more than 5 cm	Allowed	Possible

Lining cost

The price in different cities and from different manufacturers varies. Here is the average value for each category. The cost also depends on the wood used. The table shows the values ​​for 1 square meter of a product with a length of 2-3 meters. Currency - rubles.

	Larch	Aspen	Pine	Linden
Extra	690	470	450	990
BUT	500	350	300	600
IN	350	300	230	500
WITH	200	180	180	300

Video - how to choose material:

Before buying a lining, decide on the room to be finished. With the Premium category, you can create royal mansions from an ordinary house, but will the price be affordable for you?

Whichever category you choose, wood trim will delight you with its warmth and comfort for many years.

The lining has long been one of the favorite finishing materials. Thanks to her, cozy, warm and original interiors are created.

What is lining

Lining is a long planed board. It has a groove and tongue for mounting. The material is environmentally friendly as it is made of wood.The characteristics are close to those of wood: durability, ease of installation, high-quality sound insulation.

Used lining for interior and exterior walls, ceiling. In addition, it can be used for the construction of terraces, gazebos, baths. Thanks to its good noise absorption, it is even used to sheathe walls in cinemas.

Currently, there are several types of lining:

• Ordinary (also called "Euro lining") - has special grooves on its surface, which are necessary for ventilation.

• American - resembles a bar made of wood. This type is attached only in the horizontal direction. It is usually used for exterior decoration of buildings.

• Block house - imitates a round bar.

What lining is made of

The traditional material for the manufacture of lining is wood. Various species are used, both coniferous and deciduous.

Among conifers, the most common is pine. Spruce is also used, but much less often. This is due to the fact that the spruce has a loose structure.

All types of pine lining are suitable for indoor use and exterior wall cladding. But in some rooms (for example, a steam room in a bath), such material is not recommended. But the spruce lining is resistant to moisture and the appearance of mold, so it can be used in places where moisture is possible (baths, balconies, open terraces).

From deciduous, alder, ash, maple, aspen, linden are used. A little less often walnut and oak. as well as premium wood species can be purchased online on the website. The goods are delivered across the Russian Federation in shrink wrap. Elite species are made from larch. Linden and alder wood never heats up and does not burn the skin, regardless of the air temperature. Therefore, they are often used for wall cladding in steam rooms of baths and the construction of shelves there.

Recently, lining made from other materials (for example, plastic) has also been produced. Such a building material is conventionally called "clapboard" due to the presence of a "groove-comb" fastening system.

Lining grades

The lining is produced in accordance with the standards defined by GOST and TU (technical specifications). If GOST is common for all enterprises, then TU is developed by each manufacturer independently. That is why it is difficult to divide the lining into separate types. Each manufacturer may have their own.

The quality of the finished material depends on the quality of the selected raw materials. Therefore, the basis for dividing the lining into grades is chosen such characteristics as the presence of knots and resinous pockets, the blue of the raw material, existing cracks, etc. Depending on this, the following types of lining (or classes) are distinguished:

• Variety "extra" (also called "superior" or "premium").

• First grade (class A).

• Second grade (class B).

• Third grade (class C).

Products of various grades are manufactured using the same technology. Their division occurs after sorting, since the varieties of the lining differ only in the existing external defects.

Extra grade

Such a lining ("extra" grade) is distinguished by the complete absence of any defects. There are no knots, no cracks, no chips on it. Most often, this variety is made by splicing. This is due to the fact that it is very difficult to make perfect boards from a single piece of wood. Their number is very small. This variety is considered elite, it is used to decorate the interiors of wealthy country houses.

Accordingly, such a lining has the highest price - the highest grade. For its safety, manufacturers often pack it in a vacuum. Thus, they reduce the likelihood of damage (chips, deformations) on the product during transportation and storage. The kit usually includes special mounting hardware. The premium lining does not need to be adjusted, it will fit perfectly. During installation, you need to be careful not to damage the surface of the material, which is covered with a protective varnish.The lacquer coating further emphasizes the beauty of the wood.

When buying, you need to be careful. Visually inspect the material to avoid deception. Do not trust only the inscription on the label. There are times when there are perfect boards on top of the package, and lower quality on the bottom. Sellers who are confident in the quality of the material will not obstruct inspection.

First grade

In terms of its characteristics, the clapboard is comparable to the class A clapboard. Grade 1 from some producers is often better than the highest from others. This is due to discrepancies in the requirements of technical specifications during production. Therefore, in such situations, you need to focus on the appearance of the material.

The differences of the first grade of lining are in the absence of falling out knots and through cracks. Small and necessarily blind cracks occupy an insignificant part of the boards. The absence of blue, rot and blackheads is also characteristic.

The knots that are on the material must be light, healthy and not falling out. Their size does not exceed 1.5 centimeters in diameter. Loose knots should be healthy, intergrown and no more than 0.5 cm in diameter.

Cracks are allowed up to 9.5 cm long. They are necessarily not through, not plast, and go to the end of the board.

Defects in a product of this class do not need to be hidden. It is enough to treat the surface with decorative varnish (oil, wax), which will emphasize the natural lines of the wood.

Larch lining (grade 1, like the highest), is perfect for interior decoration of residential premises.

Second grade

Such a lining (grade 2) is characterized by the presence of visible defects. There are dents, cracks, chips. But their size does not exceed 5 cm per 1 linear meter of the board. On the surface of the product there is blue (up to 10% of the volume), knots, resin, core. At the ends, it is permissible not to do it, which does not interfere with the installation.

Knots do not exceed two centimeters in diameter, their number is up to one per running meter of material. If the knots are black, their diameter should not exceed 1.5 cm. Rotten and falling out knots are not allowed.

Reservoir cracks, extending into the end, with a length not exceeding a third of the entire length of the board, are acceptable. Through cracks - no more than 30 cm in length. The length of the seam through cracks is no more than 15 cm with a width of up to 1 mm.

Places with blue color, tarring are allowed, one per board, if their size does not exceed 10x20 cm.

Most of the defects are formed during the manufacturing process. Existing cracks should not be through or extend to the end of the board. Rot is possible up to 10% and a wormhole (up to 3 per linear meter). For this grade, any defects are permissible that will not interfere with the installation of the material.

The existing imperfections are usually hidden by grouting and painting in dark colors.

This class of lining is a budget option suitable for most of the population.

Third grade

For certain rough work and finishing of utility rooms, lining is also used. Grade 3 is the most suitable option. Low product quality explains the minimal cost.

During installation, the lining of this class must be adjusted and painted in order to hide serious surface defects. These can be knots falling out, through cracks, pith, remnants of bark, chips. Material defects take up most of the surface.

Comparative table of lining by grades

The distinctive characteristics, thanks to which the varieties of lining are distinguished, are most conveniently compared using a table.

	Variety "Extra"	1st grade	2nd grade	Grade 3
The presence of knots	Unacceptable	Up to 1 healthy, light-colored and captive knot per 1 running meter	Healthy people are acceptable. No more than 1 drop (up to 1.5 cm in diameter) per 1 running meter	Permissible
Cracks	Unacceptable	Allowed (not through)	Allowed (not through)	Permissible
Core	3-5%	Less than 20%	Permissible	Permissible
Rot	Unacceptable	Unacceptable	Less than 10%	Permissible
Resin pockets	Unacceptable	Less than 5 cm	Allowed	Allowed
Wormhole	Unacceptable	Unacceptable	Less than 10%	Allowed

Price differences between the varieties of lining

Differences in the quality of the material and the presence of defects lead to differences in the prices for the lining. Planks of the same type may differ in cost. This may be due to the way in which the material was dried. Conventionally dried board has natural moisture, it is heavier, but almost half the price. The material that has been dried in the chamber (it is lighter) is more expensive.

So, pine lining of class A, dried in a chamber, costs about 200-450 rubles per 1m2, and dried naturally - 130-300 rubles. Dry material from pine grades B and C will cost 180-350 and 140-250 rubles per 1m2, respectively.

The price for larch lining is approximately as follows (per square meter):

• The highest grade - 1200 rubles and more.
• First grade - 550-900 rubles.
• Second grade - 400-750 rubles.
• Third grade - 330-600 rubles.

The lining, regardless of the type, is a beautiful and environmentally friendly material that is easy to use in work. But when choosing the necessary material in the store, you should be careful. It is better to spend a little time checking the purchased products, whether they correspond to the declared grade. Otherwise, you might be wrong. This will affect the aesthetic features of the room, which will not look exactly as planned.

Balcony clapboard is one of the best choices when it comes to balcony renovation. Often, people take the last thing to repair the balcony, since this is not the most used place in the apartment, whatever one may say. However, in the desire to acquire a cozy and beautiful place in their apartment, the owners take on the decoration of the balcony - the room is sunny, well-lit, and besides, you can admire the view from the window.

Getting down to business, the owners of the apartment are faced with the first and most important question - how to sheathe the walls. In this case, the simplest solution would be to sheathe the balcony with clapboard, since the material is not too whimsical, easy to use and repair of such a plan does not require large-scale cash costs or efforts. Everything can be done quite calmly with your own hands, which is described in the article today.

Which lining to use

In 90% of cases, clapboard means a product made of wood, since it looks more aesthetically pleasing and more expensive, often clients prefer this type of balcony cladding. However, there is also a similar option made of PVC, that is, made of plastic. Therefore, in the common people it has acquired the name "plastic lining".

In fact, the question is not in the material, but in principle, in the editing algorithm. That is, the lining should be, roughly speaking, an oblong board with a spike on one side and a groove on the other.

This is how the collection of our parts takes place, thanks to which this method of cladding becomes easy even for those who are making repairs at home for the first time on their own. You don't need a lot of effort - you can assemble the lining like a large puzzle with huge details.

In fact, the choice of lining for repair depends not only on the aesthetic preferences of the owners, that is, it consists not only in the choice between wood and PVC, but also in the financial capabilities of the apartment owners, since the pricing policy directly depends on the material that will decide on finishing the balcony clapboard.

The cost of wood depends on the area in which the purchase is made, as in some parts of the country its production is higher than in others. It is not worth reading online sources about experiences and price comparisons by other people from other fields. You need to go to the store yourself and compare prices for wood and PVC.

If we talk about the aesthetic component, then there will be photos showing the view of the room, sheathed with plastic and wooden clapboard.Further, it is up to the owners of the apartment in which lining to choose for the balcony.

Aesthetic and practical choice

The aesthetic choice of wood often does not align with practical thinking. Wood is "harder" to use. And the point is not at all the difficulty of performing repair work in the case of choosing wood materials, but in further use. Since the wood becomes dirty faster, dust particles settle on the varnished surface, which are almost impossible to wash off from the small cracks of the wood, and accordingly, over time, it will still darken and look sloppy. While plastic is easy to clean and retains its appearance definitely longer than wood.

We also clarify that the choice of wood is often supported by the thinking "it is more natural", because plastic is "a child of chemical reactions." However, this also does not converge with practice, because if the lathing of the balcony under the lining is completely made of unprepared material, that is, untreated wood, such repairs will last no more than a couple of years, if you are lucky. The tree will begin to loosen, rot, and there is no need to talk about its aesthetic appearance.

Decorating a balcony with wooden clapboard is finishing it with wood pre-soaked with chemicals for preservation and open varnish. Of course, all this does not smell natural. However, only in this form, the wooden wall covering can serve a long service: wood will not be of interest to various bugs that could feed on it or live in it, and due to varnish it is not afraid of moisture and heat, so often found different temperature regimes on the balcony.

Before using the wood, you must treat it yourself with an antiseptic.

It is worth noting that the difficulty of using wooden lining can be offset by the ability to change the color design of the balcony. The fact is that the lining is covered with a protective impregnation. It also resembles varnishing. Unfortunately, such a coating cracks over time and it is necessary to re-cover the walls with new ones. Impregnations give a color shade that can be selected depending on the wishes of the owners and the required color scheme in the interior of the apartment.

Coating with impregnations is done not of individual parts, but of a wall already finished with clapboard.

Which lining is better

Summing up the above, we can say that in practice the use of PVC is much better than wood. The subsection "which lining is better" will help you choose the type of wood lining. As it was stated earlier, lining means wood materials, but PVC acquired the name "plastic lining".

So, if a wooden lining was still chosen for the apartment, then what kind of tree to choose. Of course, in this aspect, the issues of practicality in use and the cost of materials converge.

The cost of the tree as a whole, as previously indicated, depends on the area in which the purchase is made. However, there are types of wood that, regardless of the place of purchase, will be more expensive or cheaper than others. Therefore, you can decide on the type of tree in advance, without even visiting the shops and markets of your city.

So, the cheapest varieties of wood are conifers:

• Pine;
• spruce.

Let's understand the indicators of each tree in order to understand the advantages and disadvantages of its practical application.

Conifers

Material advantages:

• resistance to temperatures - low;
• to humidity - weak;
• it is necessary to cover with antiseptics and protective impregnations;
• heat capacity - average;
• low material cost.

By far the main advantage of conifers is their low cost. Because otherwise they are "average". Most often, it is with them that the balcony is trimmed, since they serve quite well in practice, if they are properly looked after.It is necessary to constantly cover them with protective substances, but the high temperature allows the conifers to emit both pleasant smelling and useful essential oils, as well as many substances harmful to the body. Therefore, in areas with hot summers, such a balcony finish can be a mistake.

There are also a number of more expensive tree species, including:

• larch;
• cedar;
• oak.

Cedar

Characteristics:

• temperature resistance - high;
• to humidity - high;
• additional processing is required;
• heat capacity - average.

Cedar is certainly beneficial for covering both balconies and rooms with high humidity - baths, steam rooms. In fact, it is resistant to the sun, and also releases many beneficial elements when heated. It also often produces a pleasant red color.

Larch

Characteristics:

• high temperature resistance - moderate;
• to humidity - high;
• wood processing is required with antiseptics and impregnations;
• heat capacity - average;
• not subject to decay.

The definition of "larch" is suitable for:

• Linden;
• aspen;
• alder.

All of these breeds are more durable. They are not afraid of moisture, and therefore they are not afraid to use them when decorating a bath. The resin content in them is minimal, and therefore they are not afraid of high temperatures. Moisture is only good for these breeds.

To maintain the color, it is necessary to treat with special chemicals. And before installation, you should not give in to mechanical stress, because of its density, the wood can easily crack.

In general, such durability is almost not needed for finishing the balcony and these types of wood are chosen solely for aesthetic reasons, the color of these types of trees is very beautiful.

Classification

These classes differ in the presence of mechanical defects in the wood (knots, roughness), as well as the accuracy and uniformity of the pattern on the wood. Accordingly, the following rating is maintained: extra class, A, B, C.

Classes B and C are not advised by pros in planking, since cracks, tar pockets and other defects in addition to the banal roughness or knots are possible here. You should not buy into the cheapness of such material.

Class A is actually not much different from the Extra class. Only the smallest errors in the mechanical processing of wood before sale are possible in it. Therefore, in the desire to save a little money, while buying a good material for finishing, you should choose class A wood.

Types of lining

The types of lining can differ in the method of manufacturing the bar itself, as well as in its appearance, which can change the interior of the balcony.

Nowadays, balcony cladding with eurolining has become in vogue. In practice, however, such material does not justify itself. Of course, the first associations of buyers are high quality, that is, good wood, correct processing, standard and precise dimensions. However, this is not the case, and often the processing of wood leaves much to be desired, and the size is far from standard, but depends on the manufacturers of the purchased goods. The lining is distinguished only by the presence of several stripes on the back wall of the bar. This is done for a kind of "ventilation". These strips improve air circulation, extending the life of the material.

The rest of the types are extremely similar to the Euro-lining by design, but differ in appearance. These are the main types, the parties of which are in warehouses in stores and in construction markets.

However, the listed types of lining do not end there. There is always an opportunity to resort to an individual order and ask to cut out the shape of the bar that will fit the interior of the apartment or just like the household. The next photo shows the most common options, in general there are up to three dozen of them and it is worth discussing this with the company from which the order is being made.

Prices for an individual order, of course, will exceed the cost of purchasing a conventional clapboard, since the company will have to reconfigure the equipment.

Varieties and moisture

The grades of the lining have already been indicated by us earlier, these are extra classes, A, B, C. large quantities.

Roughness is not so terrible, someone even prefers to see it in their interior, in this case the "defect" refers only to aesthetic preferences, because if such a lack of mechanical processing of wood does not bother, and the price is reduced, mainly because of this, then you can buy without hesitation. But the knots should be given more attention.

The presence of knots can "infect the tree" and it will start to rot. If the knots are dry and light, then everything is in order. But if they are darkened, then over time this will happen with the whole bar. You shouldn't buy such wood.

Wood moisture is an extremely important parameter that you need to pay attention to. On the market and in building materials stores, you can find lining at an impressively reduced price due to the high level of humidity. The moisture content in the boards is more expensive, no more than 7-10%.

If you buy wood with a higher moisture level, you should be prepared for the fact that you will have to shift it twice, or even three times. If you immediately sheathe the balcony with such wood, then over time it will begin to dry out, gaps will appear, the boards will bend, some of them may crack. We'll have to redo the repair. This can be repeated two or three times before the moisture level does not reach normal.

Actually, even if you do not immediately sheathe the tree, but leave it to dry, the same thing can happen to it. Many boards will bend, they deform, crack. It is because the manufacturer himself dries the boards and removes unsuitable ones from the batches, and the price of a product with a low moisture level rises.

Sheathe the balcony with clapboard with your own hands

After choosing the material, as well as clarifying all the details, the next question of the apartment owners is how to sheathe the balcony with clapboard. After that, there is an appeal to Internet resources, a search for companies performing such repairs. Perhaps such services are even provided by a store selling building materials, because there are stores that install for a fee.

However, the cost of such services is often very high and therefore the owners begin to look for a cheaper way to make their balcony aesthetic and comfortable for household members. Then the question arises of how to sheathe a balcony with clapboard with your own hands. The process, in fact, is not so complicated, but it is worthwhile to delve into the specifics of performing this work, and before starting it, ask yourself another question that is extremely important for planning - whether the room will be insulated.

Of course, with this question comes a number of questions about what material it will be insulated with, which walls to insulate and how this will affect the clapboard cladding of the balcony, whether it is important in this case whether it is plastic or wooden.

In fact, the process of wall insulation does not greatly affect the process of finishing the balcony with wood or plastic. The most important thing in reality is to choose the material and walls that you insulate. This will change the work by only a couple of points. Installation work for insulation will be added, and the layout will also change slightly.

Instructions for work

If the question - how to sheathe the balcony with clapboard yourself - was raised, then after that it is necessary to clearly describe the sequence of actions for this event. Use the sequence below to save time. So, step-by-step instructions for finishing balconies with clapboard:

1. The first step is to remove all old finishes. Whatever is on the old walls - paint, plaster, tiles - you need to get rid of everything in order to leave even, clean walls.
2. The second stage is the well-known priming procedure. Walls, floors, ceilings must be treated with a special compound.This will prevent the appearance of fungus, which is especially possible if the walls were completely "bare".
3. The next steps are installation work. The third is filling the lathing on the walls. The lathing is made of wooden blocks. The width of the gaps between such bars is called the pitch. The step is calculated in accordance with the dimensions of the insulation material. If it is not there, it is set by the decision of the owners.
4. Stages 4 and 6 are relevant only for those who decided to insulate the balcony. Accordingly, at the fourth stage, the insulation is installed and fixed.
5. At the fifth stage, it is necessary to do a similar procedure with the floor, as it was done with the walls.
6. Accordingly, at the sixth stage, the insulation is installed and fixed in the floor.
7. On top of everything, moisture-resistant plywood is laid. Its thickness should not be less than 10 cm.
8. Only at the eighth stage, the lining is mounted on the walls.
9. On the ninth, you need to do the installation of the ceiling.
10. Only on the tenth skirting boards are installed, corners and slopes are added.

For a more in-depth understanding of each stage, as well as the whole process, it is recommended to watch how to sheathe a balcony with clapboard with your own hands video.

Balcony insulation options

In general, any material that can be found in building materials stores or on the market is suitable for insulation. However, again there is a classification according to the level of insulation and the cost of insulation. The following are the main commercially available insulation materials.

• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• foil-clad polyethylene foam;
• foam glass;
• foam block.

Styrofoam

The cheapest insulation option. The disadvantages of such a heater are the possibility of mechanical damage, unnaturalness and the release of harmful chemicals. It is worth understanding all of them. Styrofoam can really be easily crushed, but it does not matter much under the clapboard. In this case, in order to damage the insulation, it will be necessary to completely break through the lining. With plastic it is not too difficult, but with a wooden one will have to try.

It is difficult to refute the unnaturalness of the foam. He is indeed a "child of chemical reactions", but it is completely safe. Chemical elements harmful to health are released by the foam only if it burns. Otherwise, he is neutral. But this material insulates no worse than others. Therefore, in this case, the price-to-quality ratio is the most optimal.

Mineral wool

This material is of the middle price category, however, it also has a number of disadvantages and, in a certain sense, is even inferior to foam. It is made from rocks, glass wool and slag, which is why it is completely natural. However, there are two types of such material. The first is that resin-based chemicals are used for the binding, which just leads to the conclusion that the material emits harmful chemicals. The second is quilted mats. There is no binder used, and therefore it is safe. Such material insulates well, however, it also absorbs moisture very well. It should be used only if it is possible to completely protect it from moisture.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Slightly above the average price category. However, the most optimal and profitable of all insulation materials. In addition, it has the makings of sound insulation. Has a system of locks, which eliminates the presence of cracks. Resistant to mechanical damage.

Foil polyethylene foam

It is rarely used as an insulating substance itself. However, it is suitable in such a role for southern countries where there are no severe frosts. Otherwise, it is an additional layer, for example, when using mineral wool.

Foam glass

There are several variations of this material. Manufactured in China, Belarus and Europe. The lowest quality is China, then Belarus and the highest quality is from the European manufacturer. Price accordingly. However, it is the best insulation you can find.Keeps temperature both in frost up to 250 degrees, and in appropriate heat, lightweight, does not deform and is not picky when laying it. Price is the only drawback.

Foam block

For insulation, you can use foam blocks, however, in order for them to insulate, their thickness should be from 30 cm. Given the small area of ​​the balcony in standard apartments, making such an insulation means simply taking half the area of ​​the room.

All of the above insulation can be used on any surface. If we draw conclusions about them, then foam plastic will be the budgetary and effective version, and foam glass will become the more expensive, but maximum effective version of the insulation.

How to do everything without mistakes

The most common question when carrying out repairs is how to properly sheathe a balcony with clapboard. After all, having finished, you can stumble upon curved walls, gaps, cracks and other shortcomings that were worth calculating when performing all the stages.

In fact, if you have experience in repairing other premises, then the balcony will not cause difficulties. The main thing is to understand the algorithm - first the frame is built, and then the lining is applied. The frame must be flat. The most important thing is to correctly set the horizontal line on each wall. That is, the first board. Since it is from her that the rest will be exhibited.

If you follow the rules, exposing the frame as evenly as possible, it is possible to make a balcony without a single mistake.

Lathing

There are several important rules to remember about the crate. In fact, the lathing is the installation of a frame for repair. In fact, this is the most important stage, in the presence of an error in which everything will go downhill.

The frame is made of wooden blocks. The height of such a bar depends on the thickness of the insulation, if any. That is, you need a bar in the height of the insulation from the wall and another two centimeters more. This is to ensure sufficient air circulation. This "layer" of air allows you to keep both the insulation itself and the lining. These two materials require insulation from fungus and moisture. This clearance provides it.

The second secret of successful repairs is the correct direction of the lining and frame bars. If the lining is laid horizontally, then the frame bars must be laid vertically. If the lining is laid vertically, then it is necessary to lay the frame horizontally. That is, in any case, the frame and the sheathing itself must be strictly perpendicular to each other.

Mounting

There are also a couple of important points for the installation of the lining itself. The lining is attached to the frame boards. That is why the sheathing and the frame are strictly perpendicular. Can be fastened with nails, self-tapping screws, using a construction stapler. Any option that is convenient for you will do. The main thing is not with glue.

The second point - the boards are attached to the frame through one. The second is inserted into the grooves of the first, thus fixing itself on the required surface. That is, you do not need to nail all the lining boards to the frame.

Lining processing

It is necessary to process not only the lining itself, but also the entire frame. For this, special antiseptic agents for wood are bought in building materials stores.

On such funds, instructions for their use are written immediately, since it can vary depending on the manufacturer of these funds.

It is recommended to process the lining itself with tonic antiseptics. Now most of the manufacturers of such products present a huge range of colors. It is enough to choose the one that fits the design of the apartment or the idea of ​​the household. Accordingly, the opening with an antiseptic occurs according to the instructions indicated on the purchased product.

Many are wondering which color is better to choose. It depends, among other things, on whether the balcony is on the sunny side of the house or not, that is, how much time per day the lining will succumb to the influence of sunlight.

For the darkened side, for a balcony that is not heated for a long time under the sun's rays, you can take dark shades, since they will not be afraid of fading, they will retain their color. And a dark chocolate color or dark burgundy has long been considered noble, especially if these are shades of wood paneling.

If the side of the house is sunny and the cladding will have to be in the sun for a long time, it is worth choosing antiseptics that slightly bleach the wood, that is, in general, choose light shades. Their advantage is that, unlike dark ones, they do not fade. And they look no less impressive than dark shades. So the interior of the balcony in a panel of colors should be thought out not only for reasons of your own preferences and the favorite colors of the household.

Balcony cladding clapboard - video

The name of this finishing material was associated with the railways.

For lining the inner space of passenger cars, a flat and long board was previously used, on the side edges of which tongue-and-groove joints were made.

Today, the lining has lost its transport "component" and has become extremely popular in other areas - construction and repair. Various types of flat surfaces are sheathed with this beautiful and environmentally friendly material, from walls to massive furniture.

In addition to interior decoration, some types of lining are used for exterior cladding of buildings.

In addition to high aesthetics, wooden lining is an exceptionally technological material, simple and easy to use. It does not need expensive surface preparation. Plaster, putty and primer are not required under the clapboard cladding. It is enough to evenly and firmly fix the lathing of wooden bars or steel profiles on the wall.

Material for the manufacture of cladding boards - wood of coniferous (pine, spruce, larch, cedar, fir) and deciduous (aspen, linden, beech, oak and alder) species.

The choice of lining, depending on the type of wood, has its own characteristics. For example, pine, cedar and spruce are great for interior decoration as they have beautiful surface textures along their entire length. At the same time, it is impossible to revet the steam rooms of the baths with pine clapboard. When exposed to high temperatures, it emits a resin with a pungent odor.

Beech or oak wood is very beautiful, but at the same time quite expensive and laborious to process.

When choosing types of lining for outdoor decoration, preference should be given to conifers. The high resin content makes them resistant to moisture and decay. Of the hardwoods, only alder is suitable for these purposes.

The main characteristics of the lining

In addition to the type of wood, as an important classifying feature, manufacturers divide the lining according to the following criteria:

1. The degree of humidity. Facing boards of natural moisture and dry (water content from 10 to 15%) differ from each other in terms of price and properties.

Dry lining is 25-30% more expensive, as it goes through an energy-consuming procedure for removing moisture. It shrinks and cracks less.

2. The geometric dimensions of the lining and the shape of the profile. Here they distinguish between standard lining, eurolining, blockhouse and facing board "under the bar".

The thickness of the standard (GOST) finishing board can be from 12 to 25 mm, the width - up to 150 mm, and the maximum length is 6,000 mm.

At the same time, gost clapboard with a thickness of 12 - 16 mm is most often used for interior decoration. Thicker lining 16 - 25 mm is optimal for external cladding.

The greatest demand today is for eurolining, which has a wider (8 mm) tongue, which protects the joints from the formation of cracks when the wood shrinks. In addition, it has ventilation grooves on the back. The thickness of the Euro lining is unchanged and is 12.5 mm with a width of 60 to 160 mm. Its length ranges from 1.8 to 6 meters.

There are two main types of eurolining - "Standard" and "Soft Line"... The first has straight chamfers, and the second has rounded chamfers.

"Standard"

"Soft Line"

Blockhouse - liningimitating a rounded log. Its front side has a semicircular shape. A blockhouse is usually used for exterior wall decoration of buildings.

Lining "under the timber" came to us from across the ocean, because its second name is "American". This is a planed board with tongue and groove. Thanks to the cut-off side edges, its profile accurately imitates a wooden beam.

Compared to conventional and euro lining, the "American" is wider, more massive and durable. Therefore, the main place of its application is external wall cladding. The profile thickness of this type of facing board starts from 20 mm with a width of 140 mm.

The varieties of lining on the market produce in accordance with the requirements one of two standards - Russian GOST 8242-88 and European DIN 68-126. The latter is used for eurolining and divides it into three basic grades or classes - A, B and C.

Gost 8242-88

DIN 68-126

Some domestic manufacturers offer the "Extra" facing board, which is not provided for by the European standard. It has no knots or other defects, but the price of such material is almost 2.5 times higher than the cost of grade A.

Distinctive features of varieties

The main differences between the varieties of lining are visual. They are precisely and precisely regulated by the standards.

Grade A includes wood that does not have blue, rot and resin pockets. Knots are acceptable here, but only light, healthy and accrete, which do not fall out after drying.

Class B lining may have resin pockets, as well as healthy and non-consolidated knots.

In the cheapest grade C, the standard allows for blueness, dropping out knots and wane on the back of the profile.

Estimated prices

When buying lining, you do not need in-depth knowledge of a woodworking expert. However, the basic selection criteria should be known in order to buy quality material and not overpay.

Dry cladding board differs from the natural moisture material in weight. It is easy to verify this by holding in your hands two planks, the same size, but different in price.

If the pine lining was dried in a chamber, then for 1m2 (grade A) sellers ask from 200 to 450 rubles. Prices for the same material, but natural humidity range from 130 to 300 rubles. for 1m2.

It is worth noting that prices can differ significantly depending on the region of sale, as a rule, prices in the central part are much lower.

The estimated cost of dry pine euro lining of grade B is 180-350 rubles per square meter.

Dried C grade cladding boards made of spruce and pine are sold on the market for 140-250 rubles / m2.

Today, the price per m2 of linden lining (grade A) ranges from 500 to 800 rubles. The same material, but the Extra class will cost you from 650 to 850 rubles.

Larch boards are sold at the following prices: grade C - 330-600, B - 400-750, A - 530-900 and "Extra" - 1150-1300 rubles / m2.

Oak and cedar lining belongs to the category of elite finishing materials. For 1 m2 of "extra" class, manufacturers ask from 1200 rubles.

It should be noted that for large manufacturers the price of a facing board does not depend on its length. Small sellers try to make money on this and rate the lining depending on the length (the longer the board, the more expensive). Moreover, the difference in price can reach 10-15%.

Selection recommendations

When deciding which lining is better to choose, one should take into account the varietal properties of wood and the conditions of its use. As we have already said, pine clapboard cannot be used for facing the steam room, but it can be placed in the dressing room and the rest room. It is well suited for interior decoration and exterior wall cladding.

Spruce lining moisture resistant and not afraid of fungus. It dries quickly and does not darken over time. Therefore, it can be bought for finishing balconies and other surfaces that are periodically soaked.

Alder, cedar and lime finishing boards are characterized by low thermal conductivity. They are resistant to high temperature and humidity. These materials can be used to clad the walls of the steam room of the bath, as well as to use them for finishing the shelves. Even with strong air heating, linden and alder wood does not burn the skin.

A valuable property of alder lining is the minimum percentage of warpage, so the finish from it does not lose its appearance after long-term use.

When choosing a lining, you need to pay attention not only to wood defects, but also to the geometry of the board. If it is strongly bent or twisted along its length, then it will be very difficult to make an even cladding.

In this case, locks and fastening clamps will not help you. When trying to fix a deformed board in one plane, internal stresses can tear off the spike or cause cracks in the slotted lock.

When choosing lining, reject boards with resin pockets and single (falling out) knots. It is very difficult to deal with the release of resin to the surface of the wood, and a knot falling out can spoil the appearance of the cladding.