Ganichkina the best varieties of cucumbers

Cucumber is one of the most common vegetables. Cucumber contains 97% water, as well as negligible amounts of proteins, fats, carbohydrates, essential oils and organic acids. But all these substances have a strong effect on the organs of taste and smell of a person, and through them, on the digestive organs. The complex organic components of cucumber play an important role in metabolism.

Cucumber - an annual plant, grown in open ground, greenhouses, film shelters. Seeds: 40-50 pcs. in 1 g. Cultivation methods: sowing seeds to a permanent place and through seedlings.

Sowing in open ground: sown in late May - early June (with the threat of night frosts, crops are covered with film or covering materials). The depth is 1.5–2 cm, the distance in the row is 15–20 cm, the distance between the rows is 60–80 cm. The seeds are not germinated before sowing.

Growing seedlings: sow for seedlings in a greenhouse or room 20-30 days before planting in the ground. Seedlings are planted in open ground in early June, after the threat of frost has finally passed.

The precursors for cucumber are early cabbage and potatoes, tomato, legumes, onions, green manure. The soil should be light, loose, rich in humus, pH not lower than 6.0. Cucumber is a thermophilic plant that stops growth at temperatures below 12 ° C. The optimum temperature is 24–27 ° C.

Growing cucumbers in the open field by sowing seeds to a permanent place

Landing

Ridges under cucumbers prepared in advance in a warm and lighted place, where pumpkin crops (cucumbers, zucchini, squash) were not cultivated in the previous year, in order to prevent infection with diseases and the appearance of pests.

Already in the fall, they choose a bed intended for planting cucumbers for the next year. Prepare it as follows: the bed is treated with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tbsp. Spoon per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter per 10 m2 of the bed or with the preparation "Hom" (40 g per 10 liters of water). After that, all plant residues are removed from the garden and burned. The garden bed is dug to a depth of 20–25 cm and left until spring.

In the spring, we again dig up a bed up to 70 cm wide to the depth of a shovel bayonet. Then we scatter organic fertilizer, cultivated peat, compost, manure humus - at the rate of up to 5 kg per 1 m2. Then we spread the granulated complex fertilizer Agricola for pumpkin crops. One package (50 g) is enough for 3-4 m2. After that, we take an iron rake and level the soil together with organic mineral fertilizers to the depth of the rake teeth.We easily tamp the leveled bed with a board or plywood. After that, in the middle along the bed, we make a groove 2-3 cm deep - just put a rail on the bed and press, you get an even groove.

Then we prepare a hot solution: in 10 liters of water with a temperature of 50 ° C we dilute 2 capsules of the world's best liquid stimulant "Energen", stir well and pour the groove from the kettle, not sparing the solution (it is better to shed the groove twice).

Well, now we take dry seeds of self-fertile cucumber hybrids and sow in the groove: seed from seed at a distance of 50-60 cm... Carefully, lightly press the seed with your finger to the warm, moist earth and cover it with moistened loose earth on top - about one tablespoon of earth is enough for one seed. After that, you need to press the earth to the seed with your hand.

The sown seeds are not watered from above, but the entire surface of the garden is powdered with ground hot black pepper (you can mix it with red). We do this so that the swollen seeds are not damaged by the ants, the emerging seedlings are not eaten by slugs and not gnawed by mice - pepper scares them well.

And the last procedure is to tighten the bed with a covering non-woven material, preferably a double layer.

Sowing dates in such a bed: May 25, June 1, and the last sowing date - June 15–20. The last sowing date will give you the opportunity to eat fresh green cucumbers even in early October.

As soon as the threat of frost passes (June 10–12), the cucumbers are opened, 80–90 cm high arcs are placed on the beds and a dense white covering material is placed on them, covering the garden from all sides. If you do not cover the garden, then the cucumber leaves from the bright sun become very rough, tough and prickly, break, turn yellow, turn brown, and the ovaries turn yellow and dry out. The harvest is quickly dwindling. If the cucumbers are self-pollinated, the covering material is not removed during the summer, with the exception of watering, fertilizing and harvesting.

If the cucumbers are bee-pollinated, the covering material is raised by half from the warm, windless side during flowering.

If, after sowing, slight frosts are expected, then cover the top of the covering material with additional plastic wrap, especially at night.

In summer, cucumbers are fed almost every 7 days, mainly with ready-made organic and mineral fertilizers.

Root dressing is carried out up to 5-6 times during the summer period:

1. For 10 liters of water, dilute 2 capsules of the growth stimulator "Energen", the consumption of the solution is up to 3 liters per 1 m2;

2. For 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granulated fertilizer Agricola 5 for cucumber. Consumption - up to 3-4 liters per 1 m2;

3. For 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. tablespoons of Effekton O liquid organic fertilizer, consumption - up to 4 liters per 1 m2;

4. For 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. spoon of nitrophoska and 2 tbsp. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta", solution consumption - 5 liters per 1 m2;

5. For 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of granulated complex "Agricola for cucumbers", spending up to 3 liters of solution per 1 m2;

6. Dilute 2-3 tbsp for 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Aqua" against yellowing of leaves.

Top dressing is carried out every 7–8 days, strictly following the watering. Watered only with warm water at least 3 times a week.

A bed of vegetable debris No. 1

In the open field cucumbers can be grown in a vegetable patch... In this case, the yield is higher than on the usual one.

The vegetable litter bed includes: mown grasses (nettle, sedge, quinoa, wormwood, willow tea, etc.), fallen leaves of poplar, linden, birch, coniferous needles, as well as wood shavings, sawdust, chopped straw, etc. cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes - all this is burned in a fire for ash.

It is advisable to collect plant debris in the fall and leave it in a heap. With the arrival of spring, a place protected from the wind and well illuminated by the sun is chosen for a warm garden bed.All garbage is thoroughly mixed and on a chosen level place a bed is made 50–60 cm high (compacted), 70–80 cm wide (arbitrary length). The bed is watered with hot water and tamped tightly, walking along the bed.

When the bed is ready, it is treated with pest and disease control agents, which, as a rule, can be found in plant debris.

In 10 liters of water, dilute 60 g of the drug "Karbofos" and watered from a watering can over the bed at the rate of 2 liters per 1 m2 and immediately cover the bed with plastic wrap on top for 1 day. Then the bed is sprinkled on top with wood ash, or crushed charcoal, or chalk at the rate of 1-2 cups per 1 m2.

After that, the soil mixture is poured with a layer of 12-15 cm. It consists of peat, sod land, humus and sawdust. It should be noted that sod land can only be taken from the area where perennial grasses grow.

For 1 m2 of the garden, mineral fertilizers are added to the poured soil mixture: 1 tbsp. spoon of complex granular fertilizer "Agricola 5 for cucumbers".

The applied fertilizer is sealed with an iron rake to a depth of 5–7 cm and leveled and watered with a hot (50 ° C) solution of the growth stimulator "Energen": 2 capsules are diluted in 10 liters of water, the solution consumption is 3 liters per 1 m2.

Cover with plastic wrap and leave until sowing or planting cucumber seedlings. Dates depend on weather conditions and on permanent residence in the country, they range from May 20 to June 1.

After sowing or planting seedlings, they put arcs and cover with covering material. Top dressing is carried out every 7–8 days.

A bed of vegetable debris No. 2

In the spring, at the end of April, all plant debris is raked so that it warms up in the sun. At the beginning of May, beds are made of it with a height of 70–80 cm, a width of 100–110 cm, of arbitrary length, and watered with hot water. Then the bed is carefully tamped, the holes are made in two rows with a distance of 70 cm in the center of the holes. The holes on the bed are staggered, the hole diameter is 30 cm, the depth is 30 cm.The prepared bed is once again spilled with hot water and treated with protective agents against diseases and pests, like the previous bed with a solution of karbofos. Then the bed is sprinkled with chalk, fluff lime or wood ash at the rate of 1 glass per 1 m2.

Prepare the soil separately. Take 1 bucket of peat, sod land, humus, sawdust. Everything is mixed and 1 teaspoon of superphosphate and potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of granular fertilizer "Agricola 5 for cucumbers", Mix thoroughly. In May, the prepared soil mixture is added to each well with a layer of 20 cm, and the entire bed from above (except for the holes) is covered with a mixture of sawdust, peat and humus with a layer of up to 4 cm to cover the debris and give the garden a neat look. Then the bed is watered with a warm (50 ° C) solution of a root growth stimulant "Kornerost»: 2 tablets (capsules) are diluted in 10 liters of water, solution consumption is 2 liters per 1 m2. Then the bed is covered with plastic wrap for warming up. Sowing is started on May 20, using dry, swollen or slightly spiked seeds.

In order to get a higher yield, they sow seeds of not one, but three seven varieties (for example, from self-pollinated - Masha, Herman, Marinda ; from bee-pollinated - Crane, Lord, Farmer, Parker and etc.). Three seeds of the same variety are sown in each hole, that is, five holes - five varieties, then in the same sequence. Before sowing, the wells are watered with a hot (40-50 ° C) solution of organic fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta": 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water, solution consumption per 1 well up to 1.5 liters. Seeds are sown in holes 1.5–2 cm deep at a distance of 5 cm from each other.

After sowing, the bed is tightly covered with a new plastic wrap, pulling it tightly from all four sides of the bed, the bottom of the film is covered with soil or slats, for the whole summer.

If a cold snap is expected after sowing, then for insulation on top, the film can be covered with some additional material at night. Five days after emergence, the holes are carefully cut. Only 2 of the strongest plants are left in the hole, the weak ones are removed. After another 10-12 days, when the cucumber plants begin to touch the film, cut the film with scissors around the circumference of the hole. The rest of the bed remains covered with a film until the end of the growing season (until the end of summer). After that, carefully hand determine the soil moisture in the hole and, if the soil is dry, gently water the plants at the rate of 0.5 liters of water in each hole.

In order to prevent the plants from falling in the hole, a mixture of sawdust and peat is poured onto them with a layer of 5–6 cm, ready-made universal soil "Exo" can be added with a layer of up to 5–6 cm. Pour only into the holes. Caring for cucumbers in such a bed is very convenient and not laborious, since we water, feed, weed only in the holes. Cucumbers are fed once a week.

Care

Before fruiting begins, the most important care measures are timely thinning, weeding and loosening. The last loosening is carried out when the plants have 4–5 true leaves and are still upright. It is desirable to combine it with a little podkucheniya (even better - pour humus to the base of the plants).

As soon as the plants enter the flowering phase and the beginning of fruiting, special attention is paid to watering and feeding.

Root dressing begins to give three weeks after germination.

First feeding : in 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. tablespoons of organic fertilizer "Effecton O" and 1 teaspoon of granular fertilizer "Agricola 5 for cucumbers", consuming 0.5 liters of solution per 1 well.

Second feeding : in 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Universal Rossa" and 1 teaspoon of mineral fertilizer nitrophoska.

Third feeding : 2 capsules of the "Energen" stimulator are diluted in 10 liters of water and poured into each well with 2 liters of solution.

Fourth feeding : in 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. tablespoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta" and 1 teaspoon of granular fertilizer "Agricola 5 for cucumbers", solution consumption - 2 liters per hole.

After three weeks, foliar dressing is done. On warm days, in order to avoid burns, the plants are sprayed in the morning before 11 o'clock or after 6 pm with one of the following solutions:

1. Liquid fertilizer "Agricola Aqua" (2 tablespoons and diluted in 10 liters of water).

2. Growth stimulator "Bud" (10 g per 10 l of water).

3. Liquid fertilizer "Agricola Forward" (2 tablespoons are diluted in 10 liters of water).

4. Growth stimulator "Energen" (1 capsule for 5 liters of water).

All of the listed root and foliar dressings alternate throughout the growing season growing cucumber. Foliar dressing is carried out every 10 days, alternating between these solutions.

By feeding plants with the latest organic fertilizers, you will receive environmentally friendly products with improved taste and nutritional properties. The fruits of the cucumber will not contain nitrates and salts of heavy metals, and the plants themselves will provide an intensive build-up of green mass, the growth of ovaries and protection from pests and diseases.

The lashes of cucumbers are left 1-1.2 m long, then pinch the top, pinch the lateral shoots at a length of 40-50 cm... Watered with warm (24 ° C) water (2-3 liters) into the holes before fruiting twice a week, and during fruiting - at the rate of 3-4 liters of water per hole three times a week. On such a bed, the yield is much higher than on an ordinary one. In addition, when watering only in the holes, there is no need to destroy weeds, which almost do not grow under the film. Cucumber plants are less affected by fungal diseases, their root system develops well. Loosening, bedding are excluded, and the lashes with cucumbers that are on top of the film always remain clean.

Growing cucumber seedlings in the open field, followed by transplanting to a permanent place

In the period from May 1 to May 15, a bed is prepared for sowing cucumber seeds for seedlings. The garden is chosen in a bright, warm, wind-protected place, where cucumbers were not planted in the previous year. Before digging, it is necessary to treat it with a solution of "Karbofos" - 60 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters. 1 liter of solution is consumed per 10 m2. Then the bed is dug to the full depth of the bayonet shovel (when digging, all the clods are broken). After that, organic and mineral fertilizers are added: 3-4 kg of any humus, 2-3 kg of cultivated peat and 1-2 kg of ready-made universal organic fertilizer "Exo", granulated complex Agricola 5 is scattered from mineral fertilizers (for cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini) at the rate of 50 g (1 sachet) for 3-4 m2.

Fertilizers are covered with a rake and at the same time level the beds... Furrows are made 5–6 cm deep and wide, with a distance of 15–18 cm between them.

The grooves are watered with warm (60 ° C) solution of the growth stimulator "Energen" (2 capsules are dissolved in 10 liters of water). 2 L of the solution is consumed per groove. Seeds are sown dry in a groove at a distance of 12 cm from each other. Each seed is lightly pressed against moist warm soil and covered with crumbly soil (1 tbsp. Spoon) taken nearby, or with specially prepared "Exo" soil with a layer of 1.5–2 cm. Sown and covered seeds are not watered from above, as the seeds can drown or they will be washed in different directions, and on the soil, when dried, a crust forms, which young shoots cannot always break through.

Be sure to powder the seedbed well ground black or red pepper, and between the rows additionally dust with dry mustard.

The seedbed is covered with a double layer of covering material. On all sides, the material is fixed with slats so as not to be blown away by the wind. In the event of a decrease in temperature, the bed is insulated, a film or covering material is additionally thrown on top.

Within one month (30 days), the seedlings grow in the garden. On warm days, you can open the garden bed for watering with warm (30 ° C) water, if necessary. At an air temperature above 18 ° C, root feeding is carried out: 2 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. tablespoons of "Effekton" organic fertilizer and 1 teaspoon of nitrophoska. Spend for 1 m2 up to 3 liters of solution. This feeding is given to seedlings in the phase of 2 true leaves. Shallow (3 cm) loosening of the soil between the rows is necessary, when the seedlings will have 5-6 true leaves, flower buds and 1-2 antennae will appear in the axils. Seedlings are ready for planting in a permanent place.

Do not forget that a week before planting the seedlings in a permanent place, a second top dressing is done: 2 tbsp is dissolved in 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta", solution consumption up to 3-4 liters per 1 m2. Water under the root, trying not to get the solution on the leaves. It is best to do feeding and watering in the afternoon. They are not spent during the day, otherwise burns may occur from the strong bright sun.

On hot days, excess shelter from the garden is removed, leaving only one layer. After 30 days, the seedlings should have 5-6 true leaves, now they need to be planted in a permanent place. At this time (June 12-15) frosts have already passed.

Ridges should be prepared 6-7 days before planting seedlings in a permanent place. First of all, the garden bed is treated with means of protection against diseases and pests. Then add 1 bucket of peat, humus, 3 tbsp. tablespoons of wood ash and 50 g of Agricola 5.

All this is dug to a depth of 20-25 cm, the dug-up bed is leveled with a rake and holes are made along the bed at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. Then poured with a solution, a growth stimulator "Energen": in 10 liters of water 2 capsules, consuming 1 liter of solution per well, and start planting. Seedlings are well spilled with water a few hours before planting. Then they carefully dig in with a shovel, trying to take it along with a large wet lump of earth, carefully transfer it to the garden bed and immediately lower it into the hole.Try not to squeeze the earthy ball with your hands too much, otherwise the roots will not straighten out and the plants will start to hurt. If the seedlings of cucumbers are transplanted from dry soil, that is, the soil has crumbled and the roots are bare, the seedlings may die altogether. Seedlings are transplanted on a cloudy day or in the late afternoon.

If the seedlings were planted after June 12, when the frosts have passed, the garden bed with cucumbers can be left uncovered, but still the greatest and longest harvest of cucumbers is obtained when the garden bed is covered with one layer of covering material. Root and foliar feeding is done every week. See the section "Growing cucumbers in the open field by sowing seeds in a permanent place".

Growing cucumbers in greenhouses

Most crops grow well and bear fruit outdoors, but many of them, especially cucumbers, are grown outdoors for early production. In protected ground, it is possible to artificially create the conditions necessary for the normal growth and development of plants. At the same time, the timing of growing vegetables in the early spring and late autumn period is lengthened due to the protection of plants from frost and sharp fluctuations in temperature during the growing season in spring and autumn.

Protected ground is of great importance for growing seedlings of early ripening varieties of vegetable crops, without which it is impossible to get early harvests of vegetables in the open field. The types of protected ground include: film or glazed greenhouses, various small-sized portable frame film structures such as a tunnel.

Greenhouses include cultivation structures with side walls and a roof. A person can move freely in the greenhouse, providing all work related to sowing, planting, caring for plants. On garden plots, film and glazed greenhouses are used.

What varieties and hybrids are suitable for plastic greenhouses?

All varieties of cucumber require pollination for fruit formation., parthenocarpic there are no varieties that produce fruits without pollination. With small-scale production, it is quite problematic to maintain an additional apiary and install hives for pollination in greenhouses. Therefore, for growing in film greenhouses, it is recommended to use only parthenocarpic cucumber hybrids.

When choosing a hybrid, you need to pay attention to its description.... It is advisable to use those that are specifically designed for film greenhouses. In addition, you should pay attention to the size of the fruit. Since the harvest will come in June - July, when there will be competition with gherkin-type fruits from the southern regions, it is necessary to choose hybrids with a green leaf length of 8-10 cm, which are in great demand at this time. These include, among others, Greenland, Ginga, Masha, German.

Growing seedlings

Seeds for seedlings are sown 30 days before planting in the greenhouse. Use only potted seedlings (pot diameter 10 cm). Sow in pots, set tightly to each other, after which they are covered with plastic wrap and the temperature is maintained at 25-27 ° C.

Seedling care... After the first shoots appear, the film is removed. Feeding is carried out weekly with complex mineral fertilizer. Sprinkle with warm water (25–28 ° C). As they grow, the seedlings are arranged so that the plants do not touch each other with leaves (about 40 pieces per 1 m2), which will prevent them from stretching. For unheated greenhouses, you can also grow 15–20 day old seedlings without placement. The night temperature is maintained at 18–20 ° C, the daytime temperature is 21–23 ° C, and the relative humidity is 70–75%.

How to plant seedlings correctly? Soil preparation: before planting seedlings, prepare the soil. Cucumber grows well in loose, fertile, organic-rich soils. If organic fertilizers (compost, manure) have not been applied since autumn, then they are applied under the spring basic tillage (milling), up to 10-15 kg / m2.

In the wells prepared and spilled with warm water, seedlings are planted according to one of the following schemes (depending on the growth strength of the hybrid and the size of the greenhouse): 100–120 cm between rows and 30–40 cm between plants in a row, placing 2.5–3 plants on 1 m2.

It is important to remember that when planting, the seedlings must not be buried, otherwise the stem can rot (in film greenhouses there is no subsoil heating, and the soil temperature is often lower than that required for a cucumber). Usually the pot is filled up to 2/3 of the height.

If there is a likelihood of recurrent frosts, then along the planted plants you need to install wire arcs and spread covering material over them.

Greenhouse preparation and planting

What should be the greenhouse? The greenhouse frame can be constructed from available inexpensive materials: a metal corner, a wooden bar, plastic arcs or strong wire. Its dimensions can be different: the width is 4–8 m, the length is arbitrary, the height in the ridge is 2.5 m sufficient. It must be remembered that the trellis (wire stretched along the future rows) should be installed at a level of about 2 m from the soil surface. In addition, it is necessary to provide transoms for ventilation (with poor ventilation, the temperature in the summer in the greenhouse can rise to 50 ° C, which will adversely affect the yield).

It is important to consider that the ridge greenhouse should be located from north to south, which will improve the lighting of the plants and prevent shading. In this case, the rows of plants should be located along the greenhouse.

The film is fixed to the frame with wooden slats. If the frame is metal, then it must first be sheathed with a wooden bar. You can use various types of film, but the most economical is reinforced (with careful

handling it can be used for 4-5 years). It should be borne in mind that the reinforced film is not removed from the sidewalls for the winter. It is removed from the roof in October, carefully folded, and covered again in March next year.

To get the harvest earlier, the cucumber needs to be grown only through seedlings, which is grown 30 days before planting in a permanent place.

Solar heated greenhouse (start of picking cucumber - mid - end of June). Planting seedlings - from May 10-15. About 2 weeks before the start of use, the greenhouses are cleared of snow and covered with foil. During this time, the soil thaws, dries out and warms up.

To cover greenhouses, there are synthetic films - polyethylene and polyvinyl chloride, which are resistant to shrinkage, extensibility, water absorption and frost. In addition, there is a modification of such a film reinforced with glass fiber, which is characterized by high strength and durability. The polyethylene film is permeable to direct sunlight by 80–90%, ultraviolet - by 60–80%, infrared - by 80%. Polyvinyl chloride is more elastic and more durable, transmits infrared rays by only 10%.

Heating of protected ground. There are two ways of heating protected ground - solar and biological. Solar heating is the most common and cheapest, as solar radiation is the most efficient source of energy. Having reached the surface of the soil and plants, it turns into heat energy, which, thanks to the glass roof or translucent film, remains in the greenhouse. Solar heating is most widely used when growing early vegetables and seedlings in spring greenhouses, especially on clear, sunny days. However, on cold, cloudy days, especially at night, temperatures can be below the optimal limit. To prevent this and maintain the temperature at a level, additional heating is installed in the greenhouse. Most often they use stove or water heating, less often electric heaters or inside an additional shelter with covering material.

Biological heating is based on the decomposition of biological materials, due to which heat is released. The best biofuel is horse manure, which heats up very quickly.... However, most often you have to use any kind of manure - cow, sheep, rabbit, pork. But they are colder and heavier, they heat up slowly, the temperature of their burning is lower and do not last so long. When using cow and pig manure, it is imperative to mix chopped straw and other materials that give looseness, such as sawdust or peat crumb, to it.

Wood leaves are also used as biofuel. In their pure form, they give a low temperature, it is better to mix cow or other manure with them. They are harvested in the fall: they are stacked and sprinkled with earth or peat on top and covered with a film so that they do not scatter. Weakly decomposed peat is also used as biofuel, adding mullein or horse manure to it.

They heat up biofuel a week before laying it in the greenhouse, interrupting, shaking it with a pitchfork into loose heaps, so that the manure quickly warms up. Hot stones, quicklime are placed in the middle of the heap, or a fire is lit by covering it with a sheet of iron. When coals appear, manure is thrown onto a sheet of iron, leaving a path for traction. The heated manure gives off the smell of ammonia, the temperature inside the heap reaches 40–60 ° C, depending on the type of biofuel.

Biofuel is placed in the greenhouse with a layer of 18–20 cm, carefully adjusting it so that there are no voids. Then it is covered with a film, and after 4–5 days, when it warms up and settles, it is leveled and sprinkled with fluff. Put peat or sawdust on top with a layer of 5 cm, which absorb the released ammonia. Only then the soil mixture is poured with a layer of 12-15 cm, into which the seeds are sown or the plants are planted.

Recently, due to a lack of manure, ridges in the greenhouse are poured from a soil-nutrient mixture. These are peat, vegetable humus, compost, sod land, sawdust, small wood chips, etc.

Disinfection of greenhouses. From autumn or early spring, the greenhouse is thoroughly disinfected with the following solution: 2 Iskra DE tablets and 1 package of Homa are taken for 10 liters of water, spending 1 liter per 10 m2. Or add 1 tbsp for 10 liters of water. a spoonful of copper sulfate and 60 g

drug "Karbofos". In each of these solutions add 1-2 tbsp. spoons of liquid tar soap, consuming 1 liter of solution per 100 m2, spraying the entire roof, ceiling, especially the corners of the greenhouse.

Cucumber is picky about highly fertile, loose, well-permeable to air, water and heat soils.

The best soils are loamy, with a high content of dung or plant humus, as well as with an average degree of decomposition of high-moor peat mixed with lime and sawdust.

Best mixes:

1. 4 parts of loamy soil, 3 parts of humus, 3 parts of peat;

2. 6 parts of loamy soil, 4 parts of humus, 2 parts of peat;

3. 5 parts of loamy soil, 5 parts of peat;

4. 4 parts of loamy soil, 4 parts of humus, 2 parts of peat, 1 part of sawdust.

Soil mixtures are prepared outside the greenhouse, thoroughly mixed and brought in.

Craft the ridges. It is better to arrange the beds for cucumbers from west to east, with a width of 70 to 90 cm, depending on the width of the greenhouse.

If the cucumbers are grown on biofuel, then add 12-15 cm to the soil mixture from above. Without biofuel, the ridges are made from the soil mixture 35-40 cm high. The passage along the ridges is 60-70 cm.

Fertilizers are applied to the ridges per 1 m2:

2 tsp Agricola 5 (for pumpkin crops);

2 teaspoons of superphosphate;

2 tbsp. spoons of wood ash;

2 kg of universal ready-made soil mixture "Exo" or special nutritional mixture for cucumbers or pumpkin crops.

All fertilizers are scattered evenly and covered with an iron rake to a depth of 10–12 cm.

Then the ridges are watered with a solution of the growth stimulator "Energen". To do this, take 1 capsule, dilute in 10 liters of warm water (50 ° C), stir well and watered over the surface of the garden, consuming a solution of 2-3 liters per 1 m2.Even a small dose of Energen, which has got into the soil, leads to the formation of a large amount of humus, thereby significantly increasing the soil fertility. Energen accelerates the processing of organic matter into humus.

As soon as the ridges are ready, two rows of wire are pulled along each of them at a height of 1.5–2 m, at a distance of 20–30 cm at the top. The wire must be well secured so that it does not break off under the weight of the crop. Wipe the previously used tensioned wire with a damp cloth and soap.

Sowing dates. For film greenhouses without heating, seedlings begin to grow in pots on a windowsill from 2–5 to 25–30 April, in order to plant them in a greenhouse on 1–20 May, so that the seedlings will be 20–25 days old. If the greenhouse is covered with two layers of film and there is additional heating, then there is no need to grow seedlings at home. Seedlings are grown immediately in a greenhouse in a small garden bed. Seeds are sown on April 15, and then after 25-30 days (approximately May 1-15), the seedlings are planted over the entire area of ​​the greenhouse, that is, in a permanent place. In the event of a decrease in air temperature during the growth of seedlings, it is necessary to close it inside the greenhouse with a light light film or a special non-woven material - lutrasil, agril, throwing it on temporary arcs.

Seeds for seedlings are sown in pots, cups or sachets 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 cm in size. One of the nutritious soil mixtures is poured into the pots: 2 parts of peat and humus and 1 part of small old sawdust, add 1 tbsp to a bucket of this mixture. spoon of nitrophoska and 2 tbsp. spoons of wood ash. Or take: one part of sod land, peat, humus, sawdust or one part of peat and humus, add 1 tbsp to a bucket of these mixtures. spoon of complex mineral fertilizer "Agricola 5" (for pumpkin crops).

Any soil mixture can be replaced with a ready-made universal soil-growing soil or specifically for cucumbers. The soil mixture is well mixed and poured to the top in pots, slightly compacted. Then it is poured with a warm (50 ° C) solution (1 capsule of the growth stimulator "Energen" is dissolved in 5 liters of water). If the potting mix is ​​compacted, add soil to keep the pot full. Then put the filled pots on the garden bed.

The pots are placed one to one in a bridge manner, that is, without distances between them. After that, the bed together with the pots is sprayed with a solution before sowing the seeds: 20 g of the Khom preparation is added to 10 liters of water, spending 1 liter of solution per 10 m by spraying, in order to avoid root rot.

Care for cucumbers in the greenhouse

When growing seedlings, it is necessary to maintain the temperature at night at least 12-15 ° C... At night, you need to cover the seedlings warmer, and remove additional covering material during the day. If the air temperature reaches 20 ° C or higher during the day and there is no wind, you can open a window on one side of the greenhouse.

Greenhouse temperature must be kept constant (the difference between day and night is no more than 4–6 ° C). Too high a temperature causes stretching and weakening of the plants, while temperatures below the optimum somewhat inhibit growth, however, without affecting the normal development of the plants. The temperature in the greenhouse is regulated by ventilation, which can be increased and made longer as the outside temperature rises, until the door is opened for the whole day, and then overnight.

It is carried out in such a way that the following temperature is maintained: at night - 17–20 ° C, in cloudy weather - 21–23 ° C, in sunny weather - 25–28 ° C. A little ventilation should be carried out even on cloudy days to avoid too high air humidity, which, together with low temperatures, can provoke plant diseases.

The sown seeds, as well as the seedlings that have appeared, must be watered with a small watering can with very small holes. The watering rate depends on the growth phase and the ambient temperature.For a good water supply to plants, it is necessary to water in such a way that the water reaches the depth of the roots.

If the depth of the roots, for example, for cucumber seedlings is 3 cm, then watered with 3 liters of water per 1 m2. During fruiting, the roots penetrate 15–18 cm deep, naturally, water from 15 to 18 liters of water per 1 m2.

When growing seedlings, maintain an air humidity of 70-85%... Adequate humidity on warm days is maintained by spraying inside the greenhouse. Air humidity above 90% in cloudy weather contributes to the appearance of dripping liquid moisture on plants, which is favorable for the development of fungal diseases.

Top dressing of seedlings. Growing seedlings of cucumber in greenhouses are fed every 8-10 days. For this purpose, the following solutions are used:

1) add 2 tbsp for 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta" or "Agricola Forward", spending from 2 to 3 liters per 1 m2 or 0.5 cups per pot;

2) the second solution is prepared from mineral organic fertilizers: 1 capsule of the root growth stimulator "Kornerost" and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of complete mineral fertilizer "Kemira Lux", consuming 2 liters of solution per 1 m2. Or add 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate, Agricola 5 to 10 liters of water. Consumption - from 3 to 4 liters per 1 m2.

The first feeding is done in the phase of 2 true leaves. The second is in phase 3-4. Top dressing is alternated after 7 days.

When planting seedlings in a permanent place plants should have 5-6 true leaves, 1-2 antennae, thick stem and well-developed root system.

Before planting seedlings, they carry out moisturizing watering, make holes with a depth corresponding to the size of the pot, and watered them with a solution of Effekton O organic fertilizer, 3 tbsp. spoons in 10 liters of warm (30 ° C) water, spending 1 liter per well. Seedlings are planted vertically, filling only the soil pot.

If the seedlings are slightly elongated, then after planting, the stalk can be covered with a mixture of peat and sawdust 1: 1 or with pure peat or with the universal earth "Exo" until the cotyledon leaves.

Seedlings are planted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For better lighting, it is planted in a checkerboard pattern.

Caring for plants in greenhouses has its own characteristics, mainly associated with regulation of the microclimate, ventilation, watering, feeding, processing, shaping and harvesting.

When the plants have 8-9 true leaves and the frost has passed, they are tied up with plastic twine to a wire. The plant is formed into one stem, which reaches a length of 1.5 to 2 m, while the lateral shoots in the lower 3-4 nodes (in the axils of the first lower leaves) are completely plucked out (blinded) at the very beginning of their formation. The rest of the lateral shoots coming from the axils of the leaves are left 20 to 50 cm long and the tops are pinched. The main stem reaches the wire, and as it grows, it is thrown over both rows of wire and pinched.

Watering and spraying. Air humidity during the growing season in the summer is maintained up to 90–95% (especially on hot sunny days), it is maintained by spraying the paths. Watering is carried out in the greenhouse in the morning. On cloudy days, watered less often, 1-2 times a week, on sunny days, watered 2 to 3 times a week.

The amount of water is consumed depending on the phase of the plant and depending on the weather. Before flowering, water 5-6 liters, during flowering - 8-10 liters, during fruiting - 12-18 liters per 1 m2. The temperature in the greenhouse should be 22–28 ° C during the day and 17–19 ° C at night (the difference between day and night temperatures should be no more than 5–7 ° C). Too high a temperature (above 30 ° C) causes the plants to stretch and weaken. Therefore, cucumbers grown in greenhouses at high temperatures require high humidity and ventilation, it is enough to open the vents, doors or, if the greenhouse is film, lift the film along one of the longitudinal sides.

Shading- this operation is recommended, and sometimes just necessary, when the sunlight is too high and the temperature in the greenhouse is too high. Despite the airing, the temperature remains elevated, therefore, immediately after planting or when caring for plants, this requires diffused light. In this case, spraying with a weak aqueous solution of chalk is used from the outside of the greenhouse.

Soil temperature during plant development it should be 20-22 ° C. The beds are always kept free of weeds. In the first 2-3 weeks, when the plants are still small, very carefully loosen them to a depth of 2-3 cm so as not to damage the roots. In the future, loosening is carried out depending on how the irrigation water will pass into the soil. If the water does not pass well during watering, it means that the soil is compacted. Then, with a pitchfork, punctures are made vertically between the rows of plants to the depth of the horns, 4–5 punctures per 1 m2. With such loosening, the root system is not disturbed if you do not direct the pitchfork in different directions.

Studies have shown that plants develop more intensively and yield increases with an increase in carbon dioxide in the air. Its content can be increased by placing a barrel with a slurry. Manure, decomposing, releases carbon dioxide directly into the air. The chatterbox must be mixed regularly, accelerating the fermentation process, and also to feed the cucumbers with a natural growth stimulant "Energen»: 2 capsules are diluted in 10 liters of water and poured over to 3 liters of solution per 1 m2.

Top dressing is carried out 1 time in 10 days in addition to the rest.

Top dressing. When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, 5–6 dressings with mineral and organic fertilizers are carried out over the summer.

First feeding spend before flowering: dilute 2 tbsp for 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid fertilizer "Agricola Forward". At the beginning of flowering, the plants are fed with the following solution: for 10 liters of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, superphosphate and 2 tbsp. tablespoons of "Effekton O" organic fertilizer.

During fruiting, cucumbers are fed 4 times. For the first feeding, 2 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid fertilizer "Agricola Vegeta" and 1 tbsp. spoon "Agricola for cucumbers, zucchini, squash", spending 5 liters of solution per 1 m2, or 2 tbsp. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer "Effekton O" and 1 tbsp. spoon of nitrophosphate, spending 5 liters per 1 m2.

Second feeding carried out after 7-8 days: for 10 liters of water, dilute 0.5 liters of mullein per 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate at the rate of 5-6 liters per 1 m2 or root growth stimulator "Kornerost" 2 tablets per 10 liters of water and 1 hour. spoon of urea.

Third feeding repeat after 8 days: dilute 2 tbsp for 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid universal fertilizer "Ross" and 1 tbsp. spoon "Agricola 5" (for cucumbers), consuming 5-6 liters of solution per 1 m2.

Fourth feeding you can prepare green from herbs (plantain, starlet (wood lice), nettle, quinoa): chop and pour 1 kg of this mass in 12 liters of hot water, stir well, leave for a day or more, then strain and water at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2.

Garter and shaping. About a week after planting, the seedlings are tied up with synthetic twine to the trellis. Around the plant, the twine is tied with a free loop, since the thickness of the stem will increase with age. Once a week, the main stem is twisted around the twine, all the time in the same direction.

For novice gardeners, the formation of a cucumber often causes difficulties, and they do not pay enough attention to this operation. But if the formation is not carried out, then impassable thickets are formed in the greenhouse, since a large number of lateral shoots of the first and second order begins to grow in the plants, which sharply reduces the yield and provokes the development of diseases.

The formation of plants will not take much effort if you do it constantly, once a week.

It is formed in three steps:

First. All buds and shoots are removed from the axils of the first 3-5 true leaves (so-called "blinding").If this is not done, then ovaries will form in the axils of the first leaves, which will inhibit the development of the plant itself, and as a result, the overall yield will decrease. If the seedlings are planted in early June, when warm weather sets in and the plants grow quickly, then it is enough to blind the sinuses of 3 leaves; if the planting is carried out in late April - early May or the plants are weak, then it is advisable to blind 5 sinuses.

Second. Remove the side shoots on the main stem. As a rule, all lateral shoots are removed to a height of 0.5 m; at an interval of 0.5–1 m, 1 leaf is left on the lateral shoots; at an interval of 1–1.5 m - 2 sheets; further, to the trellis, leave 3 sheets.

The third. All lateral shoots of the second order are pinched on 1 sheet.

The general rule of formation: the higher the plant, the more shoots and fruits are left on it. Over time, the main stem is thrown over the trellis and pinched, leaving 40-60 cm. As a rule, this is where the formation of the cucumber ends in a film greenhouse.

During weekly plant formation, any diseased or yellowed leaves are also removed. All trimmings are carried out in the first half of the day so that the wounds dry out by night.

Harvesting

The quality of the fruit and the duration of fruiting largely depend on the correct harvest. Overgrown fruits take up nutrients, do not allow young ovaries to develop, which leads to a decrease in yield.

During the fruiting period, cucumbers are harvested 2-3 times a week, and better - every other day (depending on weather conditions). It is best to harvest early in the morning, before the fruits have lost their firmness. Cleaning is carried out neatly, without turning over or moving the whips. At the same time, not only marketable fruits are plucked, but also ugly, as well as large fruits left over from previous harvests (all this allows the plant to be freed from unnecessary load).

At the beginning of fruiting, the collection is carried out 2 times a week, during the period of mass fruiting - after 1–2 days. With outgrowth, the fruits lose their presentation, the price for them decreases upon sale. Cucumbers are harvested early in the morning, until the fruits have lost their turgor.

During harvesting, not only all marketable fruits are harvested, but also overgrown, irregularly shaped ("hooks").

Varieties

The number of zoned varieties and hybrids of cucumber is increasing every year. Let's list the most promising of them that can be grown in open and protected ground:

Hermann- the most popular, super-early (38-40 days), super-high-yielding hybrid. Fruits are large lumpy, uniform cylindrical, 9–11 cm long, without bitterness. Recommended for growing in open and protected ground. It is intended for fresh consumption and processing.

Masha- the earliest parthenocarpic hybrid of gherkin cucumber: begins to bear fruit 37–39 days after germination. The fruits ripen together and have an attractive presentation: pimpled, standard in size, 8–11 cm long. Delicious both fresh and salted. The hybrid is resistant to the cucumber mosaic virus, cladosporiosis, powdery mildew, relatively resistant to downy mildew. Transportable.

Karin- a very early high-yielding hybrid (40–42 days), small tuberous. The fruits are uniform, cylindrical, of high quality, excellent color, without bitterness. Recommended for growing in open and protected ground. Universal use.

Greenland- early maturing parthenocarpic hybrid for film greenhouses. Beautiful white-thorn fruits are ready to eat in 40–45 days after germination. Zelenets is large, lumpy, without bitterness, good fresh. Resistant to olive spot, downy mildew, cucumber mosaic virus.

Ginga- early maturing (43–45 days) parthenocarpic hybrid for film greenhouses, shelters and open ground. Plants form 2-3 fruits in each node.The fruits of the gherkins are beautiful, 8–10 cm long, small lumpy, genetically free of bitterness, excellent taste - both fresh and canned. The hybrid is resistant to powdery mildew and downy mildew, cucumber mosaic virus, tolerant to olive spot.

Katia- an early, super-high-yielding, super-productive salad hybrid. Fruits are uniform, smooth, 19–20 cm long, beautiful green color, without bitterness, heat-resistant. Recommended to grow in winter, spring, summer, in all types of greenhouses.

Madita- an early high-yielding hybrid. Fruits are large lumpy, uniform, cylindrical, of high quality, excellent color, without bitterness. Recommended for growing in open and protected ground. Universal use.

Marinda- an early ripe high-yielding hybrid. Fruits are large lumpy with thorns, beautiful dark green color, 8–12 cm long. Recommended for growing in open and protected ground. Universal use.

Meringue- super early (37–38 days), super-yielding hybrid. Fruits are large lumpy, regular cylindrical, dark green, 8–10 cm long. Recommended for growing in open and protected ground. Universal use.

Lilliputian (breeder S. Gavrish) - early ripening (38–42 days from germination to fruiting), parthenocarpic hybrid of the female type of flowering, intended for growing in open and protected ground. Zelenets cylindrical, 7-9 cm long, weighing 80-90 g, medium-sized tubercles, often located. 7–10 ovaries are formed in each leaf axil. Sowing seedlings in late April - early May. Planting in the ground is carried out in late May - early June in the phase of two or three true leaves under temporary film shelters. Sowing in open ground is carried out in late May - early June. Recommended for picking pickles and gherkins, making high quality canned food. For pickles, picking is done daily, gherkins - every other day. Irregular harvests lead to thickening of the fruit. The hybrid is resistant to powdery mildew, downy mildew, olive spot and root rot. Productivity - 10.5-11.5 kg / m2. The optimum soil temperature for seed germination is 25–30 ° C.

Accordion player (breeder S. Gavrish) - early ripening (39–42 days from germination to fruiting) parthenocarpic hybrid of the female type of flowering, intended for growing in open and protected ground. Zelenets cylindrical, 10–12 cm long, weighing 90–100 g, small tubercles, often located. 6–8 ovaries are formed in each leaf axil. Seedlings are sown in late April - early May. Planting in the ground is carried out in late May - early June in the phase of two or three true leaves under temporary film shelters. Sowing in open ground is carried out in late May - early June. The use of fruits is universal (fresh, salting, pickling). The hybrid is resistant to powdery mildew, downy mildew, olive spot and root rot. Productivity - 12-13 kg / m2. The optimum soil temperature for seed germination is 25–30 ° C.

Kolyan (breeder V. Yurin) - early ripening (43–48 days) cucumber hybrid for growing in spring greenhouses. Ovaries 2-3 pcs. in the node. Plants are relatively resistant to powdery mildew and downy mildew, olive spot, root rot, cold-resistant. Fruits are white-thorny, large lumpy, dark green with light stripes. Length - 10-12 cm. Fruits without bitterness (the trait is fixed at the genetic level). The fruits are good in salting and in salad, the taste is high. Productivity - up to 15 kg / m2. It is included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements, approved for use in production since 2006. Sowing for seedlings - end of April, planting in the ground of an unheated greenhouse - end of May, in open ground - from 5 June. Planting density in greenhouses - 2.5 plants / m2, in open ground - 3-4 plants / m2.Plant care: tying plants to a trellis, removing the lower five lateral shoots. Watering before the start of the collection is very moderate, after the start of the collection - daily (1-3 l / m2).

Moscow delicacy - parthenocarpic early maturing (42 days) hybrid. The plant is medium-growing, with a bundle formation of ovaries. Zelentsy are beautiful, cylindrical in shape, small tuberous, genetically without bitterness, do not outgrow. They are good fresh and canned. Recommended for open and protected ground. Differs in high yield and marketability. Resistant to major diseases.

Zozulya- early maturing parthenocarpic (40–45 days) hybrid of predominantly female flowering type. For spring greenhouses and tunnels. Zelenets tuberous, white-thorn, 14-22 cm long. It is characterized by amicable, massive and long-term yield. Resistant to olive stain, tolerant to root rot.

April- self-pollinated, early, productive. The fruits are tasty, salad, but they can also be canned. Fruit length - 14-22 cm. Grown under a film.

Diva- one of the earliest for indoor use. Parthenocarpic, early maturing, high-yielding hybrid with a predominantly female flowering type. Fruits of excellent taste and marketability: small lumpy, beautifully shaped, crunchy, good for canning, shelf life. Productivity in a greenhouse - up to 28 kg / m2.

Parker- mid-early hybrid, used for growing in open ground and under temporary film shelters. Prone to parthenocarp (self-pollination). Resistant to cucumber mosaic virus, cladosporium disease, powdery mildew pathogen and root rot. Graceful fruits without bitterness, with excellent taste, pickling. Ripen on the 50th day after germination.

Lord- mid-season, high-yielding, bee-pollinated hybrid, mainly of the female type of flowering. It is cultivated in the open field. Zelenets 10-12 cm long. Possesses high canning and pickling qualities. Resistant to downy mildew and olive spot.

Farmer- a fruitful, mid-season, bee-pollinated hybrid, mainly of the female type of flowering. Grown in the open field. Zelenets 10-12 cm long. Relatively cold-resistant. Resistant to olive spot (cladosporiosis), powdery mildew and downy mildew. A peculiarity of the hybrid is the intensive growth of the main whip and the rapid appearance of lateral shoots, with the regrowth of which massive prolonged fruiting occurs. Suitable for canning and pickling.

Elegant- medium-weight, universal use. From mass shoots to fruiting - 45-50 days. Differs in increased resistance to adverse weather conditions and resistance to olive spot. Zelenets ellipsoidal shape, small tuberous. Fruit weight - 90 g.

Galina- very early hybrid (38–40 days, analogue of Annushka), 8–12 cm, large tuberous with thorns, without bitterness, ideal for salting. Recommended for cultivation in arched and film greenhouses and in the open field.

Natasha- early hybrid (40–42 days), large tuberous with thorns, without bitterness, universal use. Recommended for outdoor cultivation in vertical and horizontal ways.

Safa- highly productive, very early hybrid of mini salad cucumber. Fruits are smooth, cylindrical, rich dark green color, 16-18 cm long. Recommended for growing outdoors and fresh consumption and processing.

Sonata- consistently high yield. Mid-season (45–53 days) hybrid of a predominantly female flowering type. For open ground. The plant is medium-sized. Zelenets 6-9 cm long, weighing 60-80 g, genetically without bitterness. The taste is excellent. For fresh consumption and canning. Resistant to powdery mildew pathogens, cladosporiosis.

Prestige- productive, long-term fruiting.Parthenocarpic, early maturing, highly productive hybrid. It is characterized by a long fruiting period, resistance to disease and stressful conditions. Gives stable and high yields both in the open and in the closed ground: up to 25 kg of fruits per 1 m2. Gherkins do not taste bitter, retain their presentation for a long time, are ideal for canning.

Lightly salted cucumber - bunches of neat fruits just ask for salting! Crispy, aromatic and tasty lightly salted cucumbers are obtained very quickly!

Naf fanto - grown in open and closed ground. An early, high-yielding, bee-pollinated hybrid. The plant is powerful, with a predominance of female flowers. Fruits are small, suitable for pickling.

Tomboy cucumber - a crispy vitamin snack "between the first and second" for any friendly feast. Yes, what a Russian does not know a lot about this! Cucumber is great!

Droplet - excellent transportability. Early maturing (43–45 days) variety for open ground. Fruits genetically without bitterness, 9–11 cm long, retain their green color for a long time. Universal use.

Connie- genetically without bitterness. Early maturing (43–45 days). High-yielding parthenocarpic hybrid. The plant is medium-growing, with a bundle formation of ovaries. Zelenets cylindrical, often lumpy, white-spiked, does not outgrow. Resistant to major diseases. For open and protected ground.

Picnic - friendly return of picks! Early maturing (43–48 days), parthenocarpic hybrid of the female flowering type. Due to the large bouquets of ovaries on the main shoot (up to 8–10 pcs.) It is characterized by a very harmonious yield of the harvest. Zelenets 10–12 cm long, often lumpy, white-thorny, good fresh and canned. Relatively resistant to major cucumber diseases. For film greenhouses.

Which is better - a variety or a hybrid?

The selection of cucumber, aimed at creating heterotic hybrids, has advanced very far, the cucumber is one of those few vegetable crops, when growing even amateurs prefer hybrids. This is due to the great advantage of the latter in comparison with varieties.

Unfortunately, despite the relative cheapness of seeds, varieties, unlike modern hybrids, have a number of disadvantages... Of course, even today the varieties have their own lovers, many gardeners have been growing them for a long time, they are used to them, besides, some varieties have a fairly good quality of processed products (some varieties are especially good for pickling). Nevertheless, they also have many disadvantages: a small number of ovaries on the plant, late fruiting, large fruits, rapid overgrowth and yellowing of green leaves.

One of the few strains to really look out for is Phoenix. Despite large fruits (up to 15 cm), late onset of fruiting, it was the most resistant to peronosporosis (downy mildew). Until now, this variety is grown as the best for canning.

Hybrids differ from those varietiesm, which form fruits in the absence of pollination, they are called parthenocarpic, according to the type of flowering, hybrids of the female type of flowering (without barren flowers). Usually gardeners prefer early and mid-season gherkin-type hybrids 6–8 cm long. Mostly pickling ones are chosen. By the nature of the surface of the fruit, it is better to choose small tubercles. The main criterion: fruitful and resistant to fungal diseases.

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Oktyabrina Ganichkina is a candidate of agricultural sciences, a well-known radio and TV presenter, author of books on gardening, an active participant in regional agricultural exhibitions.Ganichkina's advice on planting and growing cucumbers will allow every gardener to improve the quality of fruits and crop yields.

Growing cucumbers according to the advice of O. Ganichkina

Seedless method

Cucumber seeds need to be sown in the garden in the last decade of May - early June (depending on the variety). The ideal option would be a light neutral or slightly acidic soil, with a high humus content and good illumination.

For growing cucumbers, it is better to use the beds after tomatoes, onions, legumes, early varieties of potatoes and white cabbage. The worst predecessors are cucumbers, squash and other pumpkin seeds.

Training

The preparation of the beds must be started in the fall, carrying out preventive treatment with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid. After spraying, it is required to burn all plant residues and dig up the bed.

In the spring, the site is again dug deeply and fertilized:

• organic fertilizing (maximum dose 5kg / m2);
• "Agricola for pumpkin crops" (one package for 3.5-4m2).

Level the soil with a rake and press with plywood or a board, leaving the width of the beds a maximum of 65-70cm.

Along the resulting beds, it is necessary to draw a furrow with a lath (2-3 cm). Before planting, on the advice of Ganichkina, it is better to water the grooves abundantly twice with a hot solution of a biostimulant for better growth and tying of greens.

Sowing

Sowing is carried out in warm and moist soil. The seeds do not require preliminary soaking, the distance between them is 50-55cm. To scare away pests (ants, slugs, mice, etc.), sprinkle the beds with a mixture of ground peppers (black and red), and the row spacing with dry mustard.

The sown bed must be covered with non-woven material until mid-June to protect the sprouts from low temperatures.

Since the second half of June, arcs (1 m in height) have been used as a shelter, on which dense white material is located. He must cover crops from all sides, protecting from the sun.

If the cucumber variety is self-pollinated, the shelter is not removed until September (except for the time of feeding and moisturizing). If the culture requires pollination by insects, during flowering, the edge of the shelter is raised from the windless side.

Care

Provide your plants with proper care

Cucumber is a thermophilic culture, the temperature of 25-27 ° is optimal for its normal development. With a decrease to 12 °, the plant stops its growth and the formation of ovaries.

Before the start of fruit formation, crop care is divided into:

1. Thinning of seedlings. When sowing, the percentage of seed germination is taken into account, so the seed is placed a little closer to each other than is necessary for full growth. After the appearance of the second true leaf, the plants are thinned out (up to 3 times).
2. Weeding. Carefully weeding will help prevent the growth of weeds, the spread of diseases and pests.
3. Watering. Watering cucumbers (except for the base of the stems) is necessary every 3-4 days with plenty of warm water at the rate of 2-3 liters per bush.
4. Loosening. Performed to establish optimal aeration and soil moisture capacity. The last stage of loosening occurs when 4-5 true leaves are formed, when the plants are still vertically directed.

After the onset of flowering and especially during the period of fruit formation, care should be concentrated on the following points:

1. Watering. The amount of water must be increased to 3-4 liters per plant.
2. Fertilization. Top dressing is applied once a week in the form of ready-made organic and mineral fertilizers. Spray the bushes every 2-3 weeks, alternating liquid fertilizers and growth stimulants.
3. The formation of the whip. The tops are pinched when the length of the lashes is at least a meter, the length of the lateral shoots is 45-50 cm.

Seedling method

Growing seedlings in a greenhouse is the best way to get an early harvest of cucumbers.Indoor ground will be more gentle for delicate sprouts and will protect against negative environmental factors until the moment of transplanting to the garden bed, when the plants get stronger.

The optimal composition of the soil for growing cucumber seedlings in greenhouse conditions will be a combination of loam, humus and peat.

Training

Preparation for sowing cucumbers in protected ground conditions:

• cleaning plant residues;
• disinfection of the greenhouse;
• application of fertilizers and stimulants.

Disinfection of the greenhouse is carried out to protect against pathogens of fungal and viral infections; it is necessary to process not only the soil, but also all surfaces of the room, tools and materials. For disinfection Ganichkina recommends using a solution of copper sulfate, karbofos and tar soap or special preparations (Iskra DE, Hom).

Ash, superphosphate and special stimulants for pumpkin crops are used to enrich the soil.

Sowing and care in the greenhouse

Sowing time: by the time of planting in open ground, the age of the seedlings should be 20-25 days. The optimum temperature is 20-22 ° during the day and 13-15 ° at night.

Growing care in greenhouses:

• watering: 2.5-3l / m2);
• top dressing (at the stage of appearance of 2 true leaves, watering with Agricola Forward or a similar fertilizer, at the stage of 3-4 leaves - top dressing with complex mineral fertilizer);
• treatment with a growth stimulator of the root system (7-10 days after sowing).

Landing on the ground

Plants need fertilization

Transplanting of seedlings occurs after the formation of 5-6 true leaves., Plant the bushes with an interval of at least 50 cm, pulling the wire for the trellis between the rows. Pieces of thick rope must be attached to the wire so that it is possible to tie up the plants. The garter is made at the stage of forming 8-9 sheets, when the lashes are in a horizontal position.

According to the Ganichkina method, the agricultural technology for growing cucumbers from seedlings in the garden combines the following points:

• plant formation;
• watering;
• fertilization.

Lash formation

Removing unnecessary shoots plays an important role in crop development, preventing light deficiency and making harvesting easier.

To thin out thickened landings, each separate lash is formed according to the scheme:

1. At the level of 3-4 lower leaves, it is necessary to remove all germinating shoots and buds. Zelentsy, formed at the beginning of the lash, suspend its growth and productivity.
2. Remove all lateral shoots up to 1.5 m from the soil, leaving only fruit ovaries from 4 leaves and above.
3. From 0.5-1 m above the ground surface, they form with partial preservation of a lateral shoot with one leaf and ovaries.
4. To a height of 1.5 m - leave all fruit ovaries, pinching the lateral shoots above the second leaf.
5. Above 1.5 m, pinching is done over the third leaf, keeping the lateral shoots.
6. The stalk that has grown over the trellis must be fixed around the wire. I pinch its top when it reaches 50-60cm.
7. Simultaneously with the formation process, it is necessary to remove yellowed, weakened and diseased leaves.

Outdoor care

The amount of water required for a culture depends on the stage of development:

• only planted seedlings - 3 l / m2;
• budding and beginning of flowering - 5.5-6 l / m2;
• mass flowering - 9-10 l / m2;
• ovary formation and fruiting - 12-18 l / m2.

The amount and composition of fertilizers applied also depends on the vegetative maturity of the cucumber:

Prior to budding, watering with Agricola Forward is applied (at the rate of 2 tablespoons per bucket of water);

At the stage of mass flowering, plants are fed with complex fertilizers with an increased content of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium;

At the stage of formation of Zelentsov, the TV presenter recommends the use of Agricola Vegeta fertilizer (1 tablespoon for 5 liters of water).

On average, for a complete top dressing, it is necessary to add 5 liters of fertilizer dissolved in water per m2.The introduction of dressings is of particular importance during the formation and ripening of fruits, therefore, fertilizers at the fruiting stage are introduced once a week.

A unique way of growing cucumber seedlings from Oktyabrina Ganichkina and the magazine Favorite DACHA

Cucumbers. Oktyabrina Ganichkina: Practical advice

A unique way of growing cucumber seedlings from Oktyabrina Ganichkina

Disease prevention

Fight against diseases by increasing immunity and culture resistance. A strong and healthy plant is less likely to suffer from diseases. It is also important to harden the seedlings in the seedling growing method. This forms the ability of cucumbers to resist disease.

When the first signs of a disease appear on one of the plants, you need to remove it from the garden or greenhouse. The pathogen quickly spreads to all plantings, especially in conditions of thickening of the plants.

Conclusion

By making the formation of lashes and saturating the soil with the necessary nutrients and water, it is possible to significantly increase the setting of plants and the quality of the fruits formed.

Oktyabrina Ganichkina divides the cultivation of cucumbers into two methods (seedling and seedling), paying special attention to pinching the lashes and treating the plantings with growth stimulants and liquid fertilizers. Tips will help even the inexperienced gardener get the full benefit of the cucumbers planted in the form of a bountiful harvest.

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The TV presenter and author of books on vegetable growing, an experienced gardener O. Ganichkina, takes care of cucumbers in the greenhouse according to the principles developed by her, using both the feeding method and the formation of a whip. Compliance with the temperature regime, properly watering, pinching the shoots - all these are laborious, but necessary procedures for obtaining a good harvest.

Using technologies tested on the experience of O. Ganichkina, everyone will be able to get high yields of greenhouse cucumbers at their site, from early spring to late autumn.

Greenhouse and seedling preparation

Due to the fact that in the protected soil favorable conditions are created not only for plants, but also for their diseases, the greenhouse must be disinfected after harvesting or before planting new plants. This is especially true for amateur gardeners, on whose site there is only 1 greenhouse, where the same crops are constantly grown.

Pathogens of fungal and viral infections accidentally caught in a greenhouse or greenhouse remain in the soil and on all surfaces in the room, spreading rapidly when newly planted plants appear.

O. Ganichkina recommends using solutions for processing greenhouses:

1. 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate and 60 g karbofos per 10 liters of water, with the addition of 1-2 tbsp. l. tar soap. Solution consumption - 1 liter per 100 m². All internal surfaces in the greenhouse must be sprayed.
2. Dissolve the Iskra DE (2 tablets) and Hom (1 packet) preparations in 10 liters of water. Consumption of solution for spraying - 1 liter per 10 m².

Before spraying, remove all old soil and plant debris from the ridges. The following soils have proven themselves well for cucumbers:

• loam, humus, peat in a ratio of 4: 3: 3, respectively;
• loam, humus, peat, wood sawdust - 4: 4: 2: 1;
• loam and peat in equal proportions (1: 1).

After the ridges are covered with new soil, you should add (2 tsp per 1 m²) ash, superphosphate and Agricola-5 for pumpkin and 2 kg of Exo mixture or another marked “for pumpkin”. Chemicals should be spread evenly over the surface of the substrate and sealed to a depth of 10-12 cm.

For the intensive growth of cucumbers and the formation of numerous ovaries, the soil must be watered with the Energen stimulator (1 capsule per bucket of water). Consumption of the solution is 2-3 liters per 1 m².

To get an early harvest, O. Ganichkina recommends a seedling method of growing cucumbers.Seeds for seedlings must be sown in such a way that by planting it has reached the age of 20-25 days.If there is heating in the greenhouse, you can do it right in it and then only plant the plants at a distance of 50 cm from each other on the ridges.

The temperature during growing seedlings should be about 20 ° C during the day and not lower than 12-15 ° C at night. Water consumption for irrigation of seedlings is about 3 liters per 1 m². Upon reaching the phase of 2 true leaves, watering is carried out with a solution of Agricola Forward fertilizer (2 tablespoons per 10 liters), the irrigation rate is 2-3 liters per 1 m². After 7-10 days, when 3-4 leaves are formed, feed with a solution of 1 capsule of a root growth stimulator (cornerost, root) and 1 tbsp. l. complex mineral fertilizer (Kemira-lux or others). Repeat fertilizing every 7 days, alternating solutions.

Lash formation and cucumber care

By the time of planting on the ridge, the seedlings usually have 5-6 true leaves. Young cucumber bushes need to be planted at a distance of 50-60 cm. Above the rows of cucumbers, pull a trellis wire, to which attach pieces of twine of sufficient length so that bushes can be tied to them. This operation is performed when the lashes are already built up by 8-9 leaves and lie on the ground.

The formation of a cucumber plant is reduced to the removal of unnecessary shoots.

So each fruit will be available for collection, and the whip will receive maximum light. In order for the landing to not be thickened, the formation of each lash is used.

This is done according to the following scheme (Fig. 1):

1. Remove all shoots and flower buds growing from the axils near the bottom 3-4 leaves. O. Ganichkina claims that the fruits growing at the beginning of the lash retard its growth and the formation of the following cucumbers.
2. To the level of 0.5 m from the soil, you need to continue to remove the side shoots completely, but the ovaries above 4-5 leaves can already be left.
3. The next level (up to a height of 1 m) is formed, keeping part of the lateral shoot with 1 leaf and ovaries.
4. From 1 m to 1.5 m, pinch the lateral shoots over 2 leaves, leaving all the ovaries.
5. Starting at a height of 1.5 meters, leave side shoots pinched over 3 leaves. As new shoots form on the lateral shoots, shorten them to 1 leaf with ovaries.
6. The stem growing above the trellis must be twisted around the wire and allowed to grow to a length of 40-60 cm, hanging down freely. Then pinch the top.

During the operations associated with the formation of the lash, yellow leaves that have signs of the disease must be removed from the plant at the same time. This material is best removed from the greenhouse and destroyed.

Care for cucumbers in the greenhouse (video)

Watering and feeding

As the lash grows, the amount of water should be increased from 3 liters for seedlings to 5-6 liters by the beginning of flowering, then up to 10 liters with the mass appearance of flowers and for good fruit filling - 12-18 liters during the formation of ovaries. The amount of water is given per 1 m².

For dressing, solutions are used:

• Agricola Forward 2 tbsp. l per bucket of water - before flowering;
• 1 tbsp. l. complex fertilizer (potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen) and 2 tbsp. l. preparation "Effekton-O" for 10 liters of water - during flowering;
• fertilizers "Agricola for cucumbers" (1 tbsp. l.) and "Agricola Vegeta" (2 tbsp. l.) per 10 l of water - during fruiting.

Use 5 liters of mortar per 1 m². Fertilizing during fruiting should be done in 7-10 days.

By forming whips and replenishing the reserves of nutrients and moisture in the soil in time, you can achieve a good return on the crop. Well-groomed plants are less susceptible to disease, and to get a large number of greens on the lash, you need to choose seeds specially designed for indoor ground (greenhouses or greenhouses).

We grow cucumbers (video)

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Many people already liked the cucumbers in the barrel, the cultivation of Ganichkin was used. It is true, you can get early cucumbers already at the end of May, and feast on the crisp healthiness, which you have missed so much after winter. The method is actually simple, and does not present much trouble.There are several options that summer residents have come up with on the way, based on this method. It is based on the same barrel, or even a hammered wooden box. Some make it without a bottom, others with a bottom, but pierce holes, and still others raise a barrel on bricks. Let's talk in more detail about this method of growing early cucumbers, which take up little space, decorate the site with their design, and bring joy to gardeners.

Benefits of planting cucumbers in barrels

Growing cucumbers in a barrel is an easy way to get a bountiful and early harvest without unnecessary hassle, using old containers that are unsuitable for their intended purpose: a leaky bucket, a large plastic or wooden container without a bottom with a volume of at least 80 liters. A rusted iron barrel is also great for creating a “vertical bed”.

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There are a lot of them, for example:

• Saving space on the site.
• Savings on irrigation and organic fertilizers.
• The ability to harvest early.
• Less hassle with growing vegetable gardens.
• Looks beautiful in the garden, pleases the eye.
• You can install the barrel on a site that is completely unsuitable for planting a vegetable garden.
• Convenient to look after - like flowers in a flowerpot.
• One barrel replaces an entire garden bed.
• In the fall, we get excellent compost from the barrel, with which you can fertilize the beds.

There are a lot of advantages, but what about the costs? Compared to the traditional method, there are significantly fewer of them. Let's take a closer look at how to grow a cucumber crop in a barrel.

Cucumber varieties for growing in a barrel according to the Ganichkina method

Barrel cucumber varieties should be early with good yields. Many people believe that it is safer to take self-pollinated varieties that give a large number of female-type inflorescences - the so-called "girl cucumbers". Some gardeners recommend planting different varieties of cucumbers in a barrel to increase the fruiting period.

To obtain cucumbers as early as possible, many use the familiar Murom variety - bee-pollinated, but high-yielding, characterized by resistance to frost and pests. Some gardeners advise hybrid variety Connie for planting in a cucumber barrel - small smooth cucumbers with good yields. To obtain fruits of greater weight (about 120 grams), you can use hybrid varieties Courage or German. Even larger fruits are produced by the well-known variety Zozulya (cucumbers with a white barrel weighing about 260 grams), which can be planted under cover or in open ground.

Preparation of barrels for growing cucumbers according to the Ganichkina method

Once the snow has melted, you need to start preparing. The soil for the barrel can be prepared the most elementary, which, for example, will consist of compost and soil in a 1: 1 ratio.

Also, any raw food waste or grass from last year can be used as soil, only this mixture must sometimes be mixed with soil or manure during the soil creation process. When the barrel is full, fertilizer can be added to it in order to eliminate foreign bacteria.

After this has been added, in the barrel, often only half of the entire volume of the container remains. Therefore, all procedures must be repeated until it is finally complete. Then, when it's time to plant the seeds, you need to add another layer of soil about 10-15 cm from above.

Further, the soil is scalded or spilled with a mild solution of potassium permanganate. In the garden, barrels must be installed in such a way that the sun's rays fall on the cucumbers, because if the plants are in a darkened area, then the yield will be below the desired level.

Preparation of soil for growing cucumbers in a barrel according to the Ganichkina method

At the end of April or at the beginning of May, depending on the region of the country, a layer of nutrient mixture should be poured over the organic substrate, consisting of rotted manure, leaf and sod land.All three components should be mixed in equal amounts. In the absence of humus, it can be replaced by 1-3 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska or calcium nitrate. The top layer of soil should be within 20-25 cm, which is quite enough for the development of cucumber roots. And in addition, a space of 15-20 cm should remain to the top.To facilitate watering future plants in a barrel, it is worth digging a container into the middle. To do this, you can use:

• 5 liter plastic bottle;
• plastic bucket;
• 3 bottles of 1.5 liters.

Moreover, in the bucket and bottles, it is required to make holes in the side walls around the entire perimeter of the containers, which will help to reproduce a kind of drip irrigation of cucumbers in a barrel.

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Planting cucumbers in a barrel according to the Ganichkina method

When the air temperature reaches + 15-180C, it is time to plant the seeds in the barrel. It is recommended to grow no more than 4-5 cucumber plants in one barrel. For early planting, seeds of early cucumber hybrids are suitable.

For a day, the barrel is well watered, it is possible that the contents will settle, then it will be necessary to fill up the earth to the desired level. For planting we prepare:

• seeds,
• film,
• scissors,
• twine or elastic band,
• humus.

To plant the cucumbers in a barrel, 4 small recesses are formed in the ground, one cucumber seed is placed in each recess. The deepening is covered with humus, the soil is slightly compacted. On the day of planting, the land is not watered. The barrel is covered with foil and tied tightly with twine. It is very convenient to use an elastic band instead of twine; ordinary underwear will do. It does not need to be untied and tied every time, if necessary, remove the film. Covering with cling film will create a greenhouse effect and seeds will germinate faster. The temperature under the film should not drop below 100C.

If you want, plant more seeds in the barrel, then carefully transplant or remove the excess plants. Thus, you will receive cucumber seedlings in a barrel. As the soil dries up, the barrel is watered, and warm water is used for irrigation, for example, heated in the sun. Pour from a watering can with a diffuser.

Care for cucumbers grown in a barrel

Cucumbers are in dire need of moisture. These vegetables, planted in a barrel, require more frequent watering, as in this case the soil dries out faster from the sun. Therefore, watering should be carried out at least three to four times every seven days. Watering can be done manually with a watering can or with a hose, but it is better to do drip irrigation. For watering cucumbers, you should take warm water that has been set in the sun. To prevent the soil from drying out and retaining moisture longer, you can mulch it. For this purpose, it can be covered with cut grass. Although nutrient soil for vegetables is used for planting in a barrel, additional feeding should be made in the process of caring for this crop. In the process of growth and fruiting, cucumbers are in great need of minerals and useful trace elements, otherwise their lack will lead to a decrease in yield and deformation of the shape of this vegetable.

Even in an unfavorable summer period, summer residents who grow cucumbers in barrels say that this does not affect the harvest volume in any way. In addition, containers with fruits are an interesting decor for the territory of a country house. They can be installed close to the area where the family gathers. To make them look the most aesthetically pleasing, many gardeners make barrels bright, decorating them with acrylic paints in various shades. It is much easier to get a rich harvest when using this technology, especially if there is not much space in the country. We hope now, knowing how to grow cucumbers in a barrel in the country, you will get a rich harvest!