Physalis which variety is better

Physalis has many more names, here are some of them: Peruvian gooseberry, earthen cherry, strawberry tomato. If you decide to grow it on your site, the yield is guaranteed in any case.
Physalis is an annual herb from the nightshade family, it has two edible species: vegetable physalis and strawberry or berry physalis.
The edible physalis fruit is a fleshy yellow-green or orange-colored berry that looks like a very small tomato. The berries are tasty and ready to eat raw and processed.

Vegetable physalis, or physalis glukoplodny (Physalis ixocarpa) - gives tasty and juicy fruits. Edible forms include: pubescent physalis (Physalis pubescens), Florida physalis (Physalis floridana) and Peruvian physalis (Physalis peruviana). Physalis Peruvian in our latitudes can only be grown in greenhouses. Vegetable physalis can be both small-fruited (Strawberry, Raisin, Bell) and large-fruited (Marmalade).

Physalis strawberry

Edible Physalis varieties:

Physalis Pineapple
Fruits are miniature, got the name for the aroma similar to the aroma of pineapple. The berries are sweet in taste, rich aroma and early ripening variety. Suitable for fresh consumption and for making jam, candied fruits.

Fizalis Gribovsky 2046.
The variety is medium early, yields are abundant and cold-resistant. Fruits are yellow-green in color, round and slightly flattened.

Physalis Strawberry
The plant is up to 70 cm high. Small-fruited, amber in color, sweet, with a strawberry flavor and the same aroma. Suitable for fresh and dried consumption, used for making desserts, boiling, canning.

Physalis raisin Surprise
A low-growing plant, an annual, rather unpretentious and early ripening. Pubescence is strong, it is also called pubescent physalis. Suitable for fresh consumption, and for making jams, compotes, etc.

Physalis Columbus
The bush is tall, the plant is classified as late-ripening and thermophilic. Suitable for fresh consumption, and for making jam, compotes. Berries are rich in vitamins, trace elements, pectin.

Physalis Confectionery 2047.
A high-yielding large-fruited variety of medium ripening. The fruits are sour, round. The fruits can be either light green or dark green. Suitable for the preparation of marmalade, sweets, pata and other confectionery products, due to the high content of pectin substances.

Physalis Korolek
An early ripe variety, belongs to the vegetable physalis. Suitable for processing into caviar, jam, jam, candied fruit, dry wine, as well as for pickling and pickling.

Physalis Tomatilo

Physalis the Magician
Mid-season thermophilic plant. Suitable for fresh consumption, as well as for making jam, compotes.Berries are rich in vitamins, trace elements, pectin.

Physalis Moscow early 2045.
The variety is very early, the fruits are large, yellow in color. Produces good yields. Suitable for salads, pickles, pickling, caviar, preserves, jam, jam, marmalade and candied fruits.

Physalis Sugar "Raisin"
Small-fruited early-ripening variety with a bright taste and aroma. Suitable for fresh and processed consumption

Physalis Vegetable Confectioner
Medium early grade. Fruits are flat-round, light green or yellow, rather large. Keeping quality is very good. Suitable for both fresh and processed form.

Physalis Plum jam
Very decorative medium early variety. The fruit is deep purple in color. To enhance the color, the fruits should lie in the sun. Suitable for both fresh and processed form.

Physalis Tomatillo
A mid-season variety, belongs to the Mexican physalis, gives very good yields, the fruits are yellow or yellow with lilac stains. Suitable for both fresh and processed form.

Physalis the Philanthropist
Mid-season variety, belongs to strawberry physalis. Fruits are round, light yellow, small, sweet taste, without acid. Ties fruit well in unfavorable conditions. Suitable for both fresh and processed form.

Physalis decorative

Physalis decorative - Chinese lanterns.
Physalis ornamental is a perennial herb. The ground part dies off in winter.

There are many species of the physalis plant, most of them edible, but not decorative. And although the flowers of the ornamental physalis are rather inconspicuous, It is redeemed with the appearance of the fruits - red-orange berries dressed in a bright orange box, reminiscent of a Chinese lantern.

Physalis decorative - poisonous and inedible. It is popular with landscape designers and is perfect for decorating shady areas of the garden. The peak of its decorative effect occurs at the end of summer - beginning of autumn, when its boxes acquire a bright orange hue. Looks great in dry winter bouquets.

There are several types of decorative physalis:

- alkekengi - with yellow, orange or red "flashlights";

- franchet - its fruits are cherry-red with a large red-orange cup;

- longifolia - with a nut-colored cup, with large ribs, and the plant height reaches two meters.

Physalis varieties

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Which plant to choose

Physalis decorative, or Physalis Franchet (Physalis franchetii) is a "Chinese lantern" growing in summer cottages. After flowering, its calyx, enclosing the fruit, grows into a thin ribbed red-orange wrapper. This species has perfectly adapted to our climate, easily endures Russian winters, and grows annually from shallow rhizomes. It is undemanding to soils, but prefers calcareous.

Physalis vegetable, or, as it is also called, Mexican - the most famous vegetable. He has large fruits (from 20-30 g to 150 g). Early maturity, cold resistance, high productivity. But the fresh taste of many varieties is quite average. It can turn out to be very pleasant only if the ripening conditions were ideal (sunny weather, a little rainfall), and the fruits set on the first inflorescences and ripened to the end on the bush. Marinated vegetable physalis is much better. And from the fruits, a wonderful jam is made, reminiscent of fig jam. Sweeter fruits in the varieties 'Moscow Early', 'Gruntovy Gribovskiy' and 'Korolek'.

Berry physalis inferior to vegetable fruit in size (1-3 g, in some domestic varieties - up to 9 g), but it is much tastier. But early maturity, productivity and cold resistance are low. Among the berry, first of all, it is worth mentioning physalis raisin, or pubescent (Physalis pubescens L.) - variety 'Surprise', Physalis Peruvian (Physalis peruviana L.), varieties 'Kudesnik' and 'Columbus', physalis florida (Physalis floridana) 'Philanthropist' variety.

Have physalis florida the taste is pleasant, sweet, almost without acid and any fruit flavor. With heavy precipitation during the ripening period, its fruits may burst. Jam from this physalis is similar to yellow cherry jam, it is advisable to add odorous geranium leaves to it for flavor.

Have physalis raisin the taste is more refined. It is sweet, with a slight sourness, pronounced fruity aroma and pineapple flavor. And the juice is similar to tangerine, but much richer. From raisin physalis, a beautiful yellow jam is obtained, but almost odorless. And this variety is also best stored: undamaged fruits in their little sheaths can lie in a cool dry place for up to 3-4 or even 6 months, withering a little. And if you dry the fruits, you get a real raisin with a weak fruity aroma.

Physalis Peruvian not as sweet as raisin, but it has a bright fruity taste and aroma, and in terms of sugar and acid content, it is close to garden strawberries. The fruits of Peruvian physalis are very tender and therefore poorly stored, although there are exceptions. Berries of the 'Kudesnik' variety are sweet and sour, with a pleasant light bitterness, reminiscent of grapefruit. The fruits are flattened, very large, and the skin and flesh are brownish-orange. Columbus berries smell of strawberries so strongly that the aroma may even seem harsh; the juice tastes like orange, but the bouquet is brighter. It is best to dry the fruits of Peruvian physalis in an open oven at a temperature of 40-50 ° C - they easily rot in the air. Dried fruits resemble dried apricots, but again - the flavor is richer.

The Physalis genus has more than a hundred species. In our country, only three of them are widespread: strawberry physalis (Physalis pubescens), vegetable physalis, or sticky-fruit (Physalis philadelphica), and ordinary physalis, decorative, or garden (Physalis alkekengi). The latter, although inedible, but its overgrown cup looks spectacular in autumn in vases, when the case turns red. The fruit is poisonous as it is saturated with solanine.

Quick reference:

Growing physalis seedlings

Physalis is grown through seedlings. Its seeds are small. They are sown in March, first in cassettes, then diving in the phase of 3-5 leaves into peat pots. In such a way, not sprout and weak plants are rejected, which is often the case with crops with small seeds. To prevent the seedlings from stretching, the room should not be too hot. The optimum temperature is + 18-20 ° C. After picking, the seedlings are fed with complex fertilizer for vegetable plants.

Landing in open ground

Water the plants 2-3 times a week, so that the soil is soaked through. In April, when the weather is warm, the growing seedlings can be brought out into the fresh air for hardening (during the day). In early - mid-May, it can be planted under film shelters. The age of seedlings for planting in the ground is from 40-55 days. Elongated plants are planted at an angle. Since nightshades do not like high humidity, they try to ensure that the topsoil is not heavily waterlogged under the film.

Physalis - care

Grown plants are fed with complex fertilizer for vegetable plants. To improve fruiting, foliar feeding can be done. To increase the number of fruits at the end of June, plants pinch the growing point. Unlike tomatoes, physalis does not need to be pinned. If there are many fruits on the plants, the stems are tied up.

Fruits are harvested as they ripen, before the first cold weather. They can crumble, but this does not affect the quality - fallen fruits can be collected from the ground. Those who do not have time to ripen must be collected before frost. In a warm room, they will ripen. You can dig up the plants before the onset of cold weather and hang them by the roots in the shed so that the remaining fruits gradually ripen.

Physalis fruits are hidden in caps of yellow-green or orange color. The surface of fruits, especially young ones, is sticky and oily. The most delicious are those that ripened on the plant in summer, in sunny weather. Late fruits are medium in taste, it is better to cook jam or pickle of them.

Before use, physalis is freed from the dry cap and washed with warm water to remove the sticky substance. If not rinsed off, the taste will be bitter. Fresh fruits are stored in a dry room at a temperature of + 2-4 ° C. without losing quality, 3-4 months, but they do not rinse before use for food.

The aromatic fruits of strawberry physalis can be dried in the oven at a temperature of + 40-50 ° C. periodically airing the oven. They will not dry out in the air - they will quickly deteriorate. Dried fruits resemble dried apricots. In folk medicine, physalis fruits are used as a diuretic for kidney and bladder stones. Decoction and infusions of fresh and dry fruits - for inflammation of the respiratory tract, stomach, intestines.

New varieties of physalis - Likhtarik, Zharinka (Ukrainian selection)

Biochemical composition of physalis fruits (in% to the weight of the fruit)
Variety	Index
	Dry matter	Sugar (total amount)	Acidity (citric acid)	Pectin substances (according to Melitz)	Tannins	Vitamin C
Moskovsky early	8-9,4	3,2-3,7	0,65-0,73	0,25-0,4	0,14-0,32	24-28 mg%
Ground Gribovsky	7,2-9,48	2,91-3,1	0,92-1,32	0,24-0,31	0,15-0,41	17.5-23 mg%
Confectionery	7,66-8,2	2,12-2,65	0,7-1,37	0,3-0,39	0,15-0,44	20.0-26 mg%

In detail:

The origin of the vegetable.

Physalis is an annual plant of the nightshade family, which got its name from the rounded shape of the flower calyx (fiza - in Greek means bubble), inside which there is a fruit with numerous seeds.

The Physalis genus is represented by 110 botanical species, most of which belong to wild-growing weeds. Several types of physalis have decorative and nutritional value.

Useful properties and uses. Ornamental types of physalis (common and garden) have small orange-red fruits that can be used as a diuretic, analgesic and hemostatic agent. Physalis garden fruits are used as a harmless organic dye for food products. Winter bouquets are made from branches with orange "lanterns".

Vegetable physalis

This species is more cold-resistant than berry. It tolerates small frosts, so it can be planted in the ground 10-12 days earlier than tomatoes. In addition, it is more resistant to common nightshade diseases, including the most dangerous one - late blight. Vegetable physalis cross-pollinated. Like the decorative one, the cases bloom in the fall, turning bright red. There are varieties of undersized (30-40 cm) and tall (up to 90-100 cm) with intermediate forms.

Strawberry Physalis

These plants are more thermophilic and self-pollinated. Strawberry physalis, popularly called strawberry tomato and dwarf gooseberry, is shorter, with small berries. Vil is less productive and much less common than vegetable, but its taste is more pleasant.

Physalis with edible fruits are divided into two groups. The first is of South American origin, Peruvian and strawberry, which have been known in culture for over 200 years. The fruits of these physalis varieties are very small and therefore not widely used.

The second group of edible physalis includes vegetable species of Mexican origin. They are grown everywhere, including in Russia. They are more productive, less demanding on heat, differ in a variety of economically valuable traits. For this reason, let us dwell in more detail on the physalis of Mexican origin.

At home, vegetable physalis has long been cultivated under the name "tomatil" and "mil-tomato", i.e. Mexican tomato. The local population uses unripe fruits for making hot sauces with pepper, mashed potatoes, boiled and baked, as well as for salting.The fruits of zoned varieties of physalis contain sugar, a significant amount of vitamin C, organic acids, trace elements, pectin substances. Physalis is the only vegetable with a gelling property, and therefore is widely used in the confectionery industry. In addition, its fruits are eaten fresh, used to make jam, jam, jam, compote, caviar, they are salted, pickled.

Biological features.

Mexican physalis is an annual cross-pollinated plant. Insects willingly swarm on its large and fragrant flowers, which bloom before the fall frost. Among the forms of vegetable physalis, there are semi-creeping (30-40 cm high) with a branching angle of up to 140 °, as well as tall (over 1 m), with branches extending from the stem at an angle of 35-45 degrees.

Within a group there can be both early ripening and very late ripening plants with fruits weighing 30-90 g, green, white, yellow, yellow-lilac, dark purple in color; in shape - flat, oval, round, from strongly ribbed to smooth; to taste - from sugary-sweet to spicy-sour with an unpleasant aftertaste. The cups (caps) of fruits are very diverse in shape, color and size - they are either too large, or, conversely, are torn apart by a large fruit.

On the basis of Mexican physalis, domestic varieties Moskovsky early, Gruntovy Gribovsky and Konditersky have been created, which can be successfully grown on personal plots. The yield of these varieties with good agricultural technology is 3-5 kg ​​of fruits per bush.

Varieties:

Moscow early.

Plants are semi-recumbent, medium branching. Leaves are light green, oblong-ovoid, smooth. The flowers are large, yellow, with brown spots in the fauces. The calyx is large, usually covering the fetus. Fruits from flat-rounded to rounded, 40-55 mm in diameter, weighing 40-80 g. The color of unripe fruits is light green, ripe fruits are yellow to amber. Ripe fruits are sweet, without a sharp sour taste. Early ripening, high-yielding (2-5 kg ​​/ m2) variety.

Ground Gribovsky.

Plants are semi-erect, well branching, 80 cm high and more. The leaves are dark green, smooth, ovoid. The flowers are large, greenish-yellow, with brown spots in the fauces; the stamens are purple. The calyx (cap) is large, multifaceted, completely filled with fruit, sometimes open at the top; brown streaks along the sides of the calyx. Fruits are smooth, from flat-rounded to roundish, light green in color, weighing 50-60 g. The taste of ripe fruits is sour-sweet, without aftertaste. The variety is medium early, cold-resistant, high-yielding (2.5-4 kg / m2).

Amateur vegetable growers will love the promising grade Confectionery, specially created at VNIISSOK for the confectionery industry. Plants of medium vigor, highly branching, spreading. Leaves are ovoid, smooth, dark green. The flowers are greenish-yellow, with brown spots in the throat, the stamens are purple. The calyx is rounded, with dark brown veins, almost always covering the fruit. Fruits are round, green, weighing 30-60 g, with high acidity. The variety is mid-season, high-yielding, easy-going.

Below in the table we give the biochemical composition of physalis fruits according to Alpatiev (1989).

Features of growing physalis.

Mexican physalis is cultivated directly by sowing seeds. Its seeds germinate at a temperature of 10-12 ° C. With the timely implementation of all agrotechnical measures, ground sowing physalis, as a rule, gives higher yields. In addition, such plants do not suffer from picking and replanting, in which a significant part of the roots is lost, and as a result, they develop a more powerful root system and are less sick. However, fruit ripening in them lags behind in comparison with seedling culture.

If an amateur vegetable grower wants to have an earlier crop of Mexican Physalis, it is best to grow it in seedlings. It takes 25-30 days to get seedlings with five to seven leaves.Based on this, the sowing time for each species is determined.

Selection and preparation of a site for planting.

Under the physalis, cultivated, well-illuminated areas are allocated, which are not subject to flooding by melt and rainwater. It can be grown on all types of soil, except for acidic (pH

Any culture can be a predecessor for physalis. However, after tomato, potato, pepper, eggplant, planting it earlier than 3 years later is undesirable, since these related plants are affected by the same pests and diseases. Physalis should not be placed over physalis in order to avoid self-seeding (due to cross-pollination of the Mexican physalis, the offspring may be less uniform).

Physalis loves loose, fertile, well-aerated soil that is not clogged with weeds. Therefore, a plot intended for growing plants is dug in the spring to a depth of 20-25 cm, after having scattered rotted manure or compost (30-40 kg / m2) over it. Applying fresh manure under physalis can cause adverse effects.

Physalis responds well to the introduction of mineral fertilizers. For soils of medium and low fertility, their approximate consumption (in grams per 10 m2) in terms of the active ingredient is: nitrogen 30-40, phosphorus 10-15, potassium 40-50, calcium 40-45, magnesium 8-10. In the absence of mineral fertilizers in the spring, wood ash is used for digging, rich in potassium, phosphorus, calcium, as well as trace elements, at the rate of 1 - 1.5 kg per 10 m2, or 2-3 glasses per 1 m2.

Preparing seeds for planting

Physalis yield largely depends on the quality of the seed, its ability to provide friendly viable seedlings. For sowing, only class I seeds should be used. They must be large enough, leveled and conditioned in terms of sowing quality.

Preparation for sowing begins with the selection of large and full-bodied seeds, which give a higher yield than usual. To do this, they are poured into a vessel with a 5% solution of sodium chloride or mineral fertilizers and mixed thoroughly. After 6-7 minutes, the lightweight seeds and litter that have emerged to the surface are removed, the solution is drained, and the remaining seeds are washed several times with water and dried to a state of flowability.

When, due to unforeseen circumstances, sowing is delayed, to accelerate the emergence of seedlings, wet after soaking seeds are kept for 4 to 6 days at a temperature of about 20! C. Seeds sprouting in warm soil germinate on the 2nd-3rd day. Dry seeds sown at a temperature of 20-25'C germinate on the 7-9th day, while at a soil temperature below 12C they can lie in the ground for a long time without germinating.

To protect plants from fungal and viral diseases, seeds are pickled in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes, followed by rinsing with running warm water. Disinfection of seeds with a 20% solution of hydrochloric acid is effective against the tobacco mosaic virus (when preparing a solution, hydrochloric acid is carefully poured into the water, and not vice versa).

Growing physalis seedlings.

Physalis seedlings are grown in film unheated greenhouses, greenhouses or in beds covered with transparent film.

The soil mixture for sowing seeds should be loose, without dense inclusions and contain all the necessary nutrients.

Physalis seeds are sown to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm. In this case, the crops should not be thickened, otherwise the plants are strongly stretched, lodged, and in wet weather they are affected by a black leg. For example, to get 50 plants, 0.2 g of Mexican physalis seeds and 0.1 g of Peruvian and strawberry seeds are required.

With the emergence of seedlings, the temperature is maintained within 15-17 ° C, removing shelters in the absence of frost, so that the root system develops better and the seedlings quickly switch to independent soil nutrition.

In the phase of one or two true leaves, the plants are thinned out or dived into pots or boxes, leaving a distance of 5-6 cm between them, and between the rows 8-10 cm. 1.5-2 hours before this operation, the seedlings are watered abundantly. When picking, in order to better preserve the roots on the plants, the seedlings are undermined and selected together with the ground. They are placed in small boxes and sorted, discarding the weak, dented, affected by a black leg. Seedlings dive with a pointed peg 10-15 cm long and 1.5-2 cm thick. They make a small hole and plant a plant in it. Then the ground is pressed against the root of the seedling with a peg, and the seedling is supported with the fingers of the other hand so as not to cover the top (growth point).

Seedling care is a crucial period in growing it. At this time, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for the growth and development of plants, for which they include fertilizing, watering, and airing. By the time of planting in open ground, the plants should be strong, not elongated, with a well-developed root system and large buds. Therefore, when the outside air temperature is 10-12 ° C, the frames or the film are removed from the greenhouses and ridges. If the seedlings are grown in boxes, they can be taken out into the open air. However, plants are gradually taught to full light, otherwise they may have sunburn. First, the plants are taken out into the open air by the end of the day, then in the morning and evening hours. Only after 3-4 days on sunny days (on cloudy - earlier) the seedlings are left open for the whole day, and if there is no threat of frost, then overnight.

Water the seedlings in the morning so that the greenhouses or ridges are aired by the evening. Watering is carried out not often, but abundantly. In cold weather, the water is heated to a temperature of 16-20'C. The soil under the seedlings is kept loose and free from weeds.

Top dressing of seedlings is carried out either continuous or selective (plants lagging behind in development) every two weeks. At the first feeding, if the leaves of the plants are pale green and the stems are thin, ammonium nitrate is preferred (15-20 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water). Feeding with bird droppings or mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15 and 1:10, respectively, is more effective. In this case, one watering can (10 l) of a solution of mineral or organic fertilizers is consumed per 3 m2 of area.

In the subsequent feeding, it is better to use a mixture of mineral fertilizers (10 g of saltpeter and 10-15 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 10 liters of solution per 1-1.5 m2. After 10-12 days, the seedlings are fed with superphosphate (25-30 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water). The consumption rate is 10 liters of solution per 1 mg of plantings. After top dressing, the fertilizer residues are washed off the plants with clean water from a watering can with a mesh to prevent leaf burns.

Before planting, when the seedlings are growing rapidly, the number of watering is reduced, however, preventing the plants from wilting.

Physalis seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June (7-10 days earlier than tomatoes). In the morning of the day of planting, it is watered abundantly so that the root system suffers less from mechanical damage. The plot is marked so that there are 3-4 Mexican physalis plants and 5-6 strawberry plants per 1 m2. For better use of the area of ​​the ridge plot, they are compacted with lettuce, radishes, the harvest of which is harvested even before the formation of fruits

physalis. It is best to plant plants in the ground in the afternoon, and in cloudy weather, you can throughout the day. After planting, the plants are not watered from above, so that a crust does not form on the soil, which interferes with the access of air to the roots.

In humid areas, physalis is advisable to grow on ridges up to 30-40 cm high in order to avoid the accumulation of stagnant water around the plants.

Growing physalis from seeds. The time of sowing physalis seeds in open ground roughly coincides with the period of planting early potatoes, when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to a temperature of 4-6 ° C.Seeds are sown in loose, well-fertilized soil, free of weeds. Seeding rate - 0.1 g / m2. Since physalis seeds are very small, for a more even sowing, sand or rapidly growing seeds of radish or lettuce are added to them in equal proportions as a lighthouse culture. These plants serve both as row markers for early row spacing and as a compacting crop for additional yield. Sowing is carried out in rows, the distance between which should be 50-60 cm.

With the emergence of mass shoots, the plants are thinned out at a distance of 50 cm, so that by the beginning of flowering there are no more than 4-5 of them per 1 m2.

Planting care

During the growing season of physalis in open ground, the soil is kept loose and free from weeds. Depending on the development of plants, they are periodically watered and fed. The first feeding is given during the period of mass flowering, the second - during fruit formation, the third - after 2-3 weeks, using solutions of mineral fertilizers, as well as slurry (1 part of the fertilizer is diluted with 5 parts of water in dry weather and 3 parts in wet weather), mullein (1:10) and bird droppings (1: 12-15).

To feed physalis with a mixture of mineral fertilizers, 10 g of nitrate, 10-20 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of potassium salt are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The consumption rate of the solution is 10 liters per 1 m2.

It should be borne in mind that ammonium nitrate with simple superphosphate can be mixed only if the superphosphate is previously neutralized. To do this, add 0.1 kg of limestone or chalk to 1 kg of superphosphate.

Unlike tomato, physalis plants do not stepchild or tie up. On the contrary, it is necessary to strive to obtain more powerful, highly branching plants. Physalis fruits are formed in places where the stem branches, therefore, the more the plants branch, the higher the yield will be. For amateur vegetable growers, we recommend pinching the tops of the branches in the middle of the growing season in order to enhance branching and increase the number of fruits on the plants.

Plants affected by diseases are removed.

In rainy summers, as well as in low, humid areas, hilling of plants is recommended, which contributes to their strengthening, reducing morbidity and better ripening of fruits.

Recommendations and tips for protecting physalis from diseases and pests

Since physalis is not a widespread crop, it is less susceptible to massive damage from diseases and pests compared to tomato or pepper. However, with an untimely control of them, the yields and quality of the fruits decrease. It is possible to prevent the widespread spread of diseases and pests and reduce the harm caused by them, it is possible with the observance of preventive measures and the application of methods of systematic control of them.

The main and general measures of protection of physalis against diseases and pests are:

• harvesting seeds, if possible, on your site, only from healthy, productive plants after preliminary approbation of sowing;
• seed dressing before sowing;
• compliance with crop rotation;
• systematic control of weeds and pests, which, in addition to direct harm, serve as carriers of many diseases;
• removal of plant residues from the site (into a compost heap) and autumn digging of the soil, contributing to its biological recovery and an increase in crop yield;
• correct agrotechnics, ensuring the normal growth and development of plants.

Phiasis diseases

Blackleg develops with excess moisture, thickened sowing, poor ventilation of plants. The stems at the root collar turn black, the plants die.

Control measures.

Thinning of seedlings, rare but abundant watering in the morning, airing, loosening of row spacings. Effective disinfection of soil and its components with microgranules (MG) of basamide (50-60, depending on its moisture content).

Mosaic characterized by the appearance of light green spots on the branches.The causative agents of the disease are viruses of perennial physalis, weeds and the remains of pumpkin crops that overwintered in the soil. Infection occurs through insects and mechanically.

Control measures.

Compliance with crop rotation, agricultural technology, weed control.

Streak first appears on plants like a mosaic. In the future, the branches become brittle. Fruits develop poorly, have a lighter color, often with cracks on the surface, tasteless, corky. Control measures are the same as for mosaics.

Physalis pests

Medvedka - an insect of dark brown color, up to 50 mm long, with pronounced digging legs. Most often found in damp places: near rivers, ponds, especially on humus-rich soils. It hibernates in the phase of a larva and an adult insect in soil or manure and begins to damage crops from early spring. Laying horizontal passages at the soil surface, the bear and its larvae gnaw through the roots and stems of plants.

Control measures.

Loosening of row spacings at the end of May and during June to a depth of 10-15 cm to destroy eggs.

One of the most reliable ways to deal with a bear is to set up hunting nests. After harvesting the crop, several holes 40 cm deep and 70 cm in diameter are dug on the site, where several shovels of manure are placed. Looking for warmer places for wintering, the bears climb under the manure, from where they are removed and destroyed.

The smell of kerosene, naphthalene, which is used to treat the places of their accumulation, repels pests.

To protect greenhouses from pests, grooves are dug along them, pouring naphthalene or sand moistened with kerosene into them.

On the subject: My way of dealing with a bear (cabbage)Clickers (wireworms - more details) - beetles 10-15 mm long, of various colors (black, brown and other, with a metallic tint). Distributed almost everywhere. The beetles themselves do not cause significant harm. The most dangerous for plants are wireworms - the larvae of click beetles. They got their name for an elongated solid yellow-brown body that resembles a piece of wire. They prefer moderately moist soil, with drying of the surface layer, wireworms go to the lower layers. They live in soil for 2 to 5 years. The pest gnaws at the root system of plants and penetrates into the stem.

Control measures.

Loosening of row spacings, deep digging of the soil in the fall, in which larvae and eggs die.

Catching wireworms with potato or beet bait buried in the ground (on twigs).

Compliance with sanitary and hygienic measures delays the development of caterpillars of various scoops. Against them, it is advisable to use an egg-eater - trichogram. This useful predator is released in two or three doses during the mass oviposition of the scoop at the rate of 10 insects per 1 m2. For the purpose of prevention, the plants are sprayed with a strained three-day infusion of burdock leaves (1 part of the volume of crushed burdock leaves is poured with 2 parts of water) a week after planting the seedlings.

Harvesting and storage of crops.

Ripening of fruits begins from the lower tiers of plants: the higher the fruits are located, the younger and later they ripen. The moment of ripening can be determined by the drying and lightening of the caps, as well as by the aromatic smell and color of the fruit characteristic of this variety. Ripe fruits tend to fall off. If the weather is dry, then they remain on the ground without spoilage, especially strawberry and Peruvian physalis, whose caps are much larger than berries. In wet weather, larvae and worms penetrate inside the covers, damaging the fruit. It is not recommended to harvest the fruit after rain. If there is a prolonged rainy weather, then the wet fruits must be dried or freed from the covers, otherwise they will deteriorate during storage. Although physalis fruits are strong enough, nevertheless, precautions are needed to prevent them from being damaged, since pectin substances are quickly destroyed by enzymes. Physalis can withstand slight autumn frosts.However, frozen fruits are poorly stored, therefore it is safer to carry out the final harvest before the onset of frost. For long-term storage, the fruits can be removed slightly unripe.

Since unripe fruits can grow somewhat on plants, with a small number of plants grown, it is advisable to harvest the fruits together with the plants before frost. Such plants are hung in a dry room or stacked with the tops of the branches inward and the roots outward. From above, the stack is covered with old film or other materials. After one to two weeks, the plants are examined and the grown healthy fruits are collected from them. When plants in a stack freeze, large fruits from them can be used for making jam or for pickling.

Features of seed production.

In order to get a crop of physalis with a higher quality of fruits next year than in the current one, it is necessary to use good seeds. It is not always possible to acquire such seeds, therefore, amateur vegetable growers strive to get them on their site. For this, the best physalis plants are selected, i.e. carry out the simplest type of selection.

From strawberry and Peruvian physalis, they select mainly high-yielding, healthy seed plants with larger and more tasty fruits that ripen well in the area. With good selection, their offspring usually have distinctive features similar to seed plants. This is explained by the fact that in self-pollinating crops, such as strawberry and Peruvian physalis, the genetic characteristics of seed plants are almost completely transmitted to the offspring.

It is somewhat more difficult to select the Mexican physalis, since, due to cross-pollination, its offspring inherit the characteristics of the mother plant (on which the fruits were formed) and the paternal plant (from which the pollen was brought to form the ovary).

The biological characteristics of the fruits of the Mexican physalis are determined by the offspring. Since the offspring plants are re-pollinated, the most effective way to obtain plants with valuable qualities is the method of family selection. He

consists in the fact that the offspring from each fruit of a valuable seed parent plant is grown in a spatially isolated area.

An important requirement in the seed production of Mexican physalis is to grow only one variety on the site in order to avoid natural cross-pollination with other varieties of unknown genetic properties. Strawberry and Peruvian physalis do not interbreed with each other, with Mexican, as well as with ornamental garden physalis, so they do not need to be isolated.

Pollination by insects of various forms and varieties (hybrids) of Mexican physalis is possible at a distance of 1.5-2 km. In order to avoid over-pollination, vegetable growers cultivating Mexican physalis, it is advisable to have seeds of the variety whose seed production is carried out in a given radius.

For seed production, Mexican physalis is grown in seedlings in order to avoid over-pollination of the variety with plants from self-seeding (seeds of past harvest years).

The preservation of the varietal qualities of physalis is achieved by the use of varietal cleanings from the period of growing seedlings to harvesting fruits, as well as the creation of high soil fertility and the timely implementation of the necessary agricultural practices.

The agricultural technique on the seed plot is the same as in the cultivation of physalis for food purposes. Only a strong thickening of crops is unacceptable. For better formation of fruits, and in them seeds, feeding with superphosphate and potassium salt is recommended.

Fruits are harvested first from rejected plants and fallen to the ground, which are used for consumer purposes, and only then from typical plants for seeds.

The collected fruits are sorted, discarding the diseased, and then ripening.

The best conditions for ripening physalis fruits are created in well-ventilated rooms at an air temperature of 20-25 C and a relative humidity of 80-85%.The fruits are laid out on racks in two or three layers in slatted (lattice) boxes.

Seeds are isolated from fruits that have reached full biological ripeness, i.e. having already characteristic color for this variety and seeds with a hardened shell (peel).

If a sufficiently large number of ripe fruits have accumulated, then they are kneaded in glass or plastic containers. The mass of fruits is kept at room temperature (20-25 * C) for 3-5 days. During this time, it will begin to ferment, after which good full-fledged seeds sink to the bottom of the dish. The top layer is discarded, and the seeds remaining at the bottom are washed several times with water and dried on filter paper or some other absorbent paper. In this case, the seeds are scattered in one layer and kept until completely dry.

It is better to store seeds in a dry room, preferably heated, in canvas or paper bags. Under these conditions, the seeds of the Mexican physalis do not lose their germination within four years, strawberry and Peruvian seeds - within five.

Also on the topic: Purslane Recipes (with Physalis)

The use of physalis in cooking

For processing, you can use both ripe and unripe fruits of the Mexican physalis.

For all types of use of Mexican physalis, first of all, it is necessary to peel the fruit from the caps and rinse with hot water in order to remove sticky and waxy substances from the surface that have an unpleasant odor and bitter taste.

Physalis is salty.

Physalis fruits are salted separately or together with cucumbers. Peeled washed fruits are laid in layers with spices (for 1 kg of fruit - 30 g of dill, 5 g of horseradish root, 3 g of garlic, if desired, 1 g of red capsicum). Other aromatic additives can be used: black currant and cherry leaves, tarragon, basil, mint, parsley, celery.

However, the total mass of spices should not exceed 50 g per 1 kg of physalis fruit. The fruits placed in containers of different volumes are poured with a salt solution at the rate of 60 g per 1 liter of water - for long-term storage or 35-40 g - for a shorter period (2-3 months). After that, the container is closed with a wooden circle with slight oppression and left for 7-10 days at room temperature for fermentation and the formation of lactic acid. Mold that appears during fermentation is removed. After the accumulation of acid, palpable to the taste, the brine is drained, boiled and the fruits are poured hot again. The jars filled with pickles are rolled up and, after cooling, are placed in the cold for storage.

Physalis soaked.

Healthy, fully developed fruits are freed from the caps, washed thoroughly in warm water with a cloth or sponge until the adhesive is completely removed from their surface, rinsed. Then they are placed tightly in glass jars, washed in boiling water or steamed, and poured to the top with brine (for 1 liter of brine, 30-35 g of sugar and 10 g of salt), wooden mugs or sticks are placed on top, a little oppression so that the fruits are kept in brine. In this form, the fruits filled with brine are left for 7-10 days at room temperature (15-20C) for fermentation. After the specified period, the brine is checked for taste: if acid is felt in it, it means that the fermentation process was normal. The jars are closed with plastic lids and placed in a refrigerator or in a room with a temperature not exceeding 6 C. After a month, soaked physalis is ready for use.

Physalis prepared for urinating can be laid in layers in a large volume of cabbage, laid for pickling, and then eaten with it.

Physalis pickled.

Preliminary preparation of unripe fruits (you can also ripe, strong) is the same as for salting and urinating. The washed fruits are blanched (immersed in boiling water for 1 min), then cooled and placed tightly in sterilized liter jars, previously placed on the bottom of spices (%): salt 4-6, sugar 5, vinegar 1.6, cinnamon 0.07 , cloves 0.05 (1-2 pcs.on a jar with a capacity of 0.5 l), allspice 1-2 pcs., Bay leaf 1 pc.

Some amateurs add 1 sheet of black currant, small sprigs of tarragon and dill, 2-3 cloves of garlic to a liter jar. Cinnamon and cloves are boiled for several minutes in water, the solution is cooled and then salt and sugar are added. Jars of fruits are filled with hot marinade filling; cover with a boiled lid and sterilize for 10 minutes (at a temperature not lower than 85; C), counting from the moment the water boils in a saucepan in which jars of pickled physalis are installed. Immediately after sterilization, the jars are rolled up with lids.

It is recommended to keep jars of pickled physalis in a refrigerator or a cool room for at least 1.5-2 months to complete the pickling process. At room temperature, the product will be ready for use in 30 days.

Related entry: Vegetable Physalis RecipesVegetable caviar.

To prepare caviar, the washed fruits are baked, passed through a meat grinder and salt, onion and pepper are added to taste.

You can cook caviar with the addition of carrots and onions to physalis. The washed physalis fruits, peeled carrots and onions are chopped and fried in a deep frying pan in vegetable oil until the carrots are soft. Then the fried mass is passed through a meat grinder, salted and added, if desired, a little granulated sugar. Such caviar is used as a side dish or as an independent dish. For 1 kg of physalis take 400 g of carrots, 300 onions and 60 g of vegetable oil.

Jam.

Making Mexican Physalis jam is similar to making it from Berry Physalis.

For cooking Mexican physalis jam, you can use both fruits of full biological ripeness, and somewhat immature ones. First, the fruits are cleaned of caps, sorted, then washed well in warm water, washing off the sticky waxy substance and dirt from the peel. It is advisable to soak the fruits in warm water (at a temperature of 60-70 degrees) or subject them to short-term blanching. If the sticky substances are not removed from the surface of the fruit, then their unpleasant smell and bitter taste can be felt in the jam.

Blanching, especially of unripe fruits, helps to evenly saturate them with sugar syrup. Then the fruits are pricked from all sides with a sharp fork or "hedgehog". Large fruits (over 3 cm) are cut into several parts. Prepared fruits are placed in a bowl, poured with hot syrup (1 liter of syrup is consumed per 1 kg of fruit) and kept for 10-12 hours (fruits must be completely covered with syrup). Then the fruits are boiled (ripe 2 minutes, unripe up to 4-5 minutes), add 100-200 g of granulated sugar, stirring gently at low boil until it is completely dissolved.

After standing, the syrup with the fruits is boiled again and kept for 10-12 hours. If the fruits are ripe, this operation is repeated 3-4 times, and if immature - 5-6 times. When boiling, add 100 g of granulated sugar each time. At the last cooking, you can add vanillin. For 1 kg of fruit, 1 kg of sugar is consumed.

Candied fruit from Mexican physalis is prepared in the same way as from berry physalis.

Candied fruits can also be obtained by glazing fruits. To do this, prepare sugar syrup (for 1 part of water 5 parts of sugar), heat it to a temperature of 120 ° C and cool with stirring until sugar crystals begin to stand out (the syrup becomes cloudy). Slightly dried fruits, cooked as for jam, are immersed in hot syrup, then removed and dried on sieves so that a crust of small sugar crystals forms on the surface of the fruits.

Dried fruits are placed in glass jars and covered with plastic lids. Store candied fruits in a cool place.

Jam.

To prepare the jam, the fruits are cleaned of caps, washed in warm water, small - cut in half, large - into 4 parts or smaller, blanched, poured with sugar syrup (containing 70-75% sugar) and boiled until tender.

Some amateur vegetable growers add 1 glass of water to 1 kg of blanched fruits, boil until the fruits soften, then add 1-1.2 kg of sugar and cook until tender, stirring often to avoid burning.

The finished jam has a jelly-like consistency. The yield of jam is 73-74% of the weight of fruits and sugar.

Puree.

Ripe and fully formed unripe fruits are sorted, removing spoiled ones, freed from caps and washed with warm water. After that, the fruits are blanched (that is, they are immersed in water with a temperature of 80-85 C for 1.5-2 minutes, then the water is drained). This removes the sticky and waxy substances that give the physalis fruit an unpleasant odor and bitter taste.

Next, the fruits are boiled for 15-20 minutes in a little water or scalded. Heating the fruit should not be prolonged in order to avoid the destruction of the gelling pectin. Then the fruits are rubbed through a sieve with a hole diameter of no more than 1.5 mm or passed through a juicer to free the mass from the peel and seeds. The output of mashed potatoes is, depending on the variety, 75-80% of the weight of the fruit.

Store the puree in the refrigerator at a temperature of about 0 for no more than 10 days.

Puree from Mexican physalis is a valuable product for the production of jam and jelly-like confectionery products such as apple marmalade, marshmallow, jelly candies.

The variety of forms of currently cultivated plants makes it possible to form the most unusual landscape design and, along the way, to derive practical benefits from it.

Berry, vegetable and ornamental physalis is an unpretentious crop from the nightshade family. Some varieties can be used for medicinal and healing purposes. Physalis edible is used in canning and in dried form.

The process of growing from seeds requires attention, time and some knowledge of agricultural technology.

   

Types and varieties of physalis (with photo)

A huge selection among the presented seed bags sometimes makes even experienced gardeners get confused. Physalis types are usually divided according to the purposes of its cultivation:

1. decorative varieties of physalis have pronounced aesthetic properties;
2. vegetable varieties give a rich harvest of fruits weighing up to 150 grams;
3. berry or strawberry physalis gives fruits of a small mass (up to 10 grams), which have excellent organoleptic qualities.

Physalis varieties for decorative purposes are most resistant to adverse environmental conditions. During the flowering period, they form a bright orange flashlight. Another name for the species is physalis Franchet or Chinese lantern. Can be used in winter flower arrangements as a dried flower.

The most popular varieties of vegetable physalis are Korolek and Early Moscow.

 

 

A distinctive feature is a high ripening rate and a wonderful sweet taste. It is used in canning, in the preparation of preserves and jams.

The widest range of varieties is observed among berry or strawberry varieties of physalis - they are divided into three subspecies:

1. the Peruvian type has fruits with a pronounced citrus aroma and taste, suitable for drying and jam;
2. Florida physalis is used exclusively for jam, reminiscent of cherry in taste and aroma;
3. The sweetest and tastiest fruits can be obtained by planting raisin berry physalis - the tangerine aroma is preserved both when drying and when making jam.

When choosing a suitable physalis variety for growing from seeds in a personal plot, you should pay attention to the ripening time. The shorter the summer, the more early maturing variety should be chosen. A way out of the situation can be a seedling method of growing. We will talk about it further.

Growing physalis from seeds: planting and care

You can get a rich harvest or magnificent decorative plantings only with strict adherence to the rules of agricultural technology.

It is advisable to grow physalis from seeds in any climatic zone of Russia by seedlings.Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out at the same time as for peppers or other nightshade crops. As a rule, by the time the seedlings are transplanted into open ground conditions, the seedlings should have reached an age of 60 days. Thus, if you plan to plant at the end of May, then the seedlings should be sown in mid-February. The period of emergence of seedlings is on average 20 - 27 days.

So, preparation begins with soil treatment. Requires a soil rich in humus with the addition of river sand. The resulting soil is disinfected, calcined in the oven, treated with a hot solution of potassium permanganate and fungicides. A day later, you can start planting physalis seeds .. For this, a container with low sides is filled about half the height with soil. Then the surface is slightly compacted. Seeds are laid out at an equal distance from each other. From above it wakes up with a layer of earth about 2/3 of the entire height of the walls of the container. After the emergence of shoots, the remaining 1/3 of the height can be filled during the filling of the soil until the pick is carried out. After sowing, the surface is carefully watered with warm boiled water. The container is covered with polyethylene and placed in a warm, dark place.

After the emergence of seedlings, drip watering is carried out daily. Top dressing begins after picking (7 days after the procedure. Picking is necessary after the first pair of true leaves appear. For this, using a teaspoon, take out 1 seedling and plant it in separate peat pots with a diameter of up to 10 cm.

Top dressing in the process of growing seedlings can be carried out with complex fertilizers with mineral and organic components (Agricola, Giant, Fertika and others).

For active growth and development of physalis seedlings, an ambient temperature of at least 23 degrees Celsius is required. The length of daylight hours is also important. When seedlings appear before March 20, you need to carry out daily additional lighting using a phytolamp. It turns on for 3-4 hours every evening.

Physalis care when grown outdoors

Transplanting into open ground is carried out at the moment when the ambient temperature at night stops dropping below +10 degrees Celsius. Before this moment, it is important to harden the seedlings, gradually increasing their time outside from 30 minutes to 4 hours.

Care for physalis when grown in the open field consists in regular watering and the introduction of mineral fertilizers in order to increase the mass of the crop. Before disembarking, a garden bed is being prepared. It should not have cultivated potatoes, peppers or tomatoes in the previous 3 years. The best predecessors are carrots, beets, onions, cabbage, peas and beans. The site is carefully dug up and weeds are removed from it. Then humus should be added to the soil at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq. meter. Also for each square. meter is brought in at 50 gr. nitroammofoski or any complex mineral fertilizer for nightshade crops. You can remove excess acidity with wood ash or hydrated lime.

For planting, prepare pits with a depth of up to 30 cm, the plants should be arranged according to the scheme 70x70 cm. The stem of the seedling should be covered with earth until the first pair of true leaves. If the seedlings are very elongated, then the depth of planting in open ground can be increased. After planting, you need to water and mulch the soil with sawdust treated with nitrogen.

In the period until the seedlings grow stronger in a new place, it is very important to shelter it from the scorching rays of the sun and possible pests. The soil must be kept loose and free from weeds. For shelter, you can use a translucent film, such as lutrisil or spunbond. Top dressing begins 2 weeks after the transfer. The first two are carried out with a diluted mullein or chicken coop with the addition of nitrogen. Then, before budding, mineral compositions intended for nightshade crops are used as top dressing.Root dressing should be applied no more than 1 time per week.

Most physalis varieties do not require additional support. These are strong bushes. If too many stepsons are formed, they are trimmed. In this way, a decorative appearance can be formed and the formation of higher fruit weights can be stimulated.

If signs of wilting or the presence of pests appear, all parts of the diseased plant should be removed. Regular spraying with fungicides and insecticides helps.

Why is this little nightshade, which grows immediately in the package, is not recognized by our summer residents? It is tasty, healthy, original, unpretentious, not afraid of the cold. However, some physalis fans (there are some!) Are sure that the fruits in the caps can soon squeeze the capricious tomatoes.

reference

Tomato and physalis are the closest relatives and countrymen. Both of the nightshade family, born in the Light of Job. They were brought to us almost simultaneously, after the discovery of America. The first has taken root and is in demand, and the last has remained on the sidelines.

Physalis is useful for a hundred diseases ...

The nutritional and medicinal qualities of physalis are excellent. At home - in Peru, Mexico, Brazil and Venezuela - is in high demand. In recent decades, the same has happened in India, China, South Africa.

In all these countries, it has become one of the main vegetables, occupying vast areas. The reasons for such a triumphant procession are the original aroma reminiscent of pineapple with strawberries, as well as sweetness, high content of vitamins and other biologically active and healing substances that prolong youth and preserve health.

But its main secret is the unprecedented content of pectin, which is three times more than in apples and currants. Therefore, in many countries, physalis is often used instead of gelatin for the preparation of many dishes and homemade preparations.

The exceptional gelling properties of physalis are supported by the fact that it is able to disinfect and remove from the body almost any poisons and harmful substances, including mercury, lead and radionuclides. And also - kidney stones. Physalis normalizes blood pressure, helps to scar stomach ulcers in combination with the main treatment. It is useful for 100 diseases!

See also: Physalis - growing, planting and care, varieties and cooking

One of the three physalis is good for us

There are 3 main types of physalis, but not all are suitable for us. So, tropical, Peruvian, in the open ground of our latitudes will not be able to live because of the demanding heat and late maturity. Would be suitable for greenhouses, but gardeners prefer to grow traditional vegetables in them.

The second type of physalis is berry, less thermophilic, sweet and smells wonderful, but its fruits are smallish - up to 5-10 g, and the yield is scanty - 300 g per bush.

The third type of physalis deserves wide distribution in our country without reservations. It is native to the cool mountainous regions of Mexico and is called physalis vegetable, Mexican. The optimum temperature for its growth and development is 18-25 ° C, and the seeds germinate in general at 10-12 ° C.

Vegetable physalis is shade-tolerant and undemanding to soil fertility. Its round fruits are large, fleshy, comparable to tomatoes (up to 60-90 g). They have a sticky oily surface that is light yellow, greenish or purple in color. The fruit tastes sweet and sour. Like all other types of physalis, from the moment they are tied, they are enclosed in a dense "case", which protects them from bad weather, pests and diseases. The time from germination to the beginning of ripening, depending on the variety, is 90-115 days.

Powerful bushes of vegetable physalis with deep roots are short, semi-creeping or high - more than a meter, erect. They always have many shoots with up to 200 fruits! Until October, they can easily withstand short-term frosts down to minus 2 ° C.

Seven principles of growing physalis

1. These early ripening plants can be sown directly per pound in early May.But for a complete guarantee in a cold spring, it is easy to grow them with seedlings on a window or balcony in individual cups. The seedlings are 35-40 days old.

2. Any type of soil for physalis is suitable, except for acidic ones, which must be limed.

3. Sowing for seedlings is carried out in late March - early April, planning a planting in the garden on May 15-20. Before tomatoes and without shelter. The distance between plants is 50 cm, and in the row spacing - 60 cm.

4. Physalis is especially picky about moisture at the beginning of growth, flowering and fruiting. Then it is watered often - every 3-4 days, and then - once every 1.5-2 weeks.

5. Plants develop faster when fed every 10 days with a weak solution of slurry, fermented weeds and organic fertilizers such as Bucephal and Radogor.

6. It is not required to grow the bushes, but it is advisable to remove at least some of the buds in early August, since they appear in abundance - up to 300 pieces per bush.

7. Ripe fruits quickly crumble. Therefore, they are collected every week. And so that they do not rot on the ground and do not get dirty, the surface of the garden bed is covered with non-woven material or cardboard. Mulch from moss, lawn grass, sawdust is also appropriate.

By the way, in its pure form and without damage, physalis is stored even at room temperature for 2-3 months or longer. Often, salads from these unusual tasty fruits are prepared for the New Year's table.

It is also convenient that after the first cultivation there are no problems with seeds - now you will have your own and you do not need to buy. In one fruit, up to 400 full-fledged seeds ripen, the offspring of which repeats the characteristics of their "parents". The seeds are very small, but you can pick them out in sufficient quantity with the tip of a table knife. They do not lose their germination within 3-5 years.

See also: Physalis - and flower and plant and berry

Physalis vegetable and physalis berry - varieties

A curious summer resident who is not yet familiar with physalis should try to grow both vegetable and berry varieties. They are different, and the benefits from them are not the same, although any can be salted and pickled. But not everyone has a pleasant tasty taste when fresh.

Vegetable physalis

These varieties are distinguished by a large amount of gelling agents. And their fruits are relatively large, from 20-30 to 150 g, fleshy, akin to tomato ones. They make excellent caviar and even dry wine. Most often, the fruit tastes better when processed.

KOROLEK - early ripe variety (90-95 days after full germination). The height of the bush is 60-80 cm. The fruit is yellow, dense, sweet and sour, weighing 60-90 g. It contains a lot of pectin substances. The yield can reach several kilograms per plant. The variety is very cold-resistant, it can be sown even before winter.

Berry physalis

These plants give small, about 3-9 g, but unusually fragrant fruits, from which jam, jam, candied fruits are obtained. At the same time, they are tasty and fresh.

GOLD SPRAY - early ripe (92-99 days) grade. The bush is 30-35 cm high. The fruit is bright, smooth, slightly ribbed, yellow, sweet and sour, with a strawberry and pineapple aroma, weighing 3-5 g. Yields 0.3-0.5 kg per plant. Not only jam, but also raisins are prepared from the fruits.

SURPRISE - early ripening variety. Sprawling bush up to 70 cm high. The fruit is orange, small, weighing up to 2 g, yellow and sweet. Productivity up to 0.7 kg per 1 m2. The plant easily tolerates extreme conditions.

DESSERT - early ripening variety. Plant up to 70 cm high. Fruits are yellow, small, sweet. Productivity up to 0.7 kg per 1 m2. Endures extreme conditions.

BELL - mid-season variety (120 days). The plant is semi-creeping, up to 100 cm high. The fruit is orange, weighing 7-9 g. Productivity is up to 1.5 kg per 1 m2. Also very hardy.

Reference by topic: Dishes and recipes from vegetable and berry physalis

Berry and vegetable physalis

Today there are varieties that are good in spinning and other processing, as well as a delicacy. These are real generalists!

PHILANTHROPIST - mid-season variety (150 days). Plant up to 60 cm high.The fruit is brown-orange, weighing 5-10 g, sweet and sour, refreshing, with a fruity aroma and grapefruit bitterness. The fruits also contain a lot of gelling substances. Productivity 0.5 kg per 1 m2.

PINEAPPLE - early ripening variety (105-119 days). The plant is of medium height. The fruit is creamy, weighing 50-80 g, with a pineapple aroma. Productivity 1.4-1.5 kg per 1 m2. Shade tolerant.

JAM - mid-season variety (120-130 days). The plant is tall. The fruit is creamy, weighing 25-40 g, ideal for jam. Productivity 1.2-1.3 kg per 1 m2. Shade tolerant.

MARMALADE - mid-season variety (120-130 days). The plant is undersized. The fruit is creamy, sweet, weighing 30-40 g. Productivity 1.3-1.4 kg per 1 m2. Shade tolerant.

LACOMKA - early ripening variety. The plant is 70-75 cm high. The fruit is yellow in a light cap, weighing 65-80 g. Productivity 3.0-3.5 kg per 1 m2. Drought-resistant, cold-resistant, unpretentious.

There is also a decorative, or ordinary, physalis - plants with bright orange and red, like paper, flower-boxes that do not fade in dry bouquets in winter. The fruits of this physalis are inedible. Varieties of Chinese Lanterns, Franchetti Zwerg.

Physalis - growing and care: advice and reviews

Lanterns for garden and home

Previously, I admired decorative physalis lanterns only in winter bouquets. She was not going to seriously get involved in this plant - places in the country were reserved, mainly for perennials blooming in the spring and summer.

MY SECRETS

Gently spread the seeds over the moistened surface of the soil at some distance, sprinkled it on top with a thin layer of sand, tamped it lightly with a palm and covered it with a plastic bag.

Kept crops on a sunny windowsill at a temperature of +1 8-22 degrees. Seedlings appeared in the second week. She removed the film, periodically sprayed the tender sprouts from the spray bottle.

When the seedlings have grown 3 leaves, I cut them into individual cups with fresh soil. After transplanting, I watered a little, powdered with ash from fungal diseases.

A week later, I fed it with mineral fertilizer with a greater proportion of nitrogen (according to the instructions).

But in March of this year, one of my friends ran into my house for an hour or two, handed a pinch of unknown seeds and took from me a promise to sow them for seedlings. I had to stock up on another bowl with fertile loose soil (soil is suitable for growing seedlings of tomatoes or peppers).

In mid-May I chose a sunny corner at the dacha, albeit on the very outskirts. I passed the plants into the holes, watered them and almost forgot about them. After all, they did not particularly require attention to themselves. Only twice did I weed out the weeds in this place and once I fed my new pets with fertilizer for flowering garden plants, which was at hand. Somewhere at the end of August, that same friend came to visit. By this time, it had already become obvious what exactly was growing on my site - it was all dazzled with orange fruit beads. Some twigs had to be pinched so that the bushes did not fall apart from the weight. Miraculously, she kept these lanterns until October, but soon she will have to cut them off - in winter, Physalis will decorate the house. And now I can share the collected seeds with other friends!

Irina PUZANOVA, St. Petersburg

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