Outdoor tomato care from planting to harvest

Tomatoes are unpretentious plants that are easy to care for, but in order not to get small or diseased fruits, you will need to pay a little attention to the culture. The plant responds very well to regular watering and feeding, rewarding gardeners with a generous harvest. In this review, we will talk about the proper care of tomatoes after planting in open ground.

Stages of caring for tomatoes after planting in the ground

Only with proper and timely care can you get a good harvest of tomatoes.

After choosing a variety and planting seedlings in a tomato garden, it is necessary to provide timely care, which consists in supplying the plant with nutrients and moisture. In addition to basic needs, there are others that have no less influence on the growing season. The intricacies of the work can be found in this article.

Proper watering

Tomatoes react in the same way to a lack and excess of moisture, so irrigation is carried out as the soil dries up. Before flowering, the frequency is 1 time per week, during the formation of fruits, watering is increased up to 2-3 times a week. In hot weather with high daytime temperatures, you will need to water the soil every other day or even daily (focus on the degree of dryness of the soil). The procedures should be carried out only in the early morning or late evening. Evening is preferable, since moisture will remain in the ground longer, which means that the plant will be more comfortable.

The drip irrigation system is used not only for irrigation, but also for organic fertilization of tomatoes.

When equipping an irrigation system, preference should be given drip or underground version... Sprinkling moisturizes the tops, while increasing the risk of developing fungal diseases, in particular top rot. Irrigation can also be carried out at the root or along the grooves.For the prevention of diseases, it is recommended to add wood ash to the settled water. And when ovaries appear, ash powder is sprinkled around the bushes for better fruiting.

It is not recommended to use tap water for humidification. A settled and warmed-up well option is more suitable. The liquid rate per bush is 8-10 liters.

Periodically, watering is combined with the introduction of foliar dressings. For this, mineral fertilizers are dissolved in the water used for irrigation. Thus, the time for both procedures is reduced.

Grassing tomatoes

If you do not remove the stepchildren of tomatoes, they will powerfully develop, and the plant will turn into a multi-stem bush with numerous flowers.

Some gardeners underestimate the procedure for pinching tomatoes, believing that a branchy bush and a large number of shoots increase yields. Actually the plant does not have enough strength for all the ovaries, therefore, the fruits are often formed small or simply do not have time to ripen. The issue is solved by removing useless shoots. This should be done while they are still small (3-5 cm). If time is lost, and they have already gained growth, then it makes no sense to carry out pinching.

The procedure is carried out in early August. All stepchildren are removed from the bush, leaving 2-3 leaves above the fruits. Sometimes it becomes a pity to pick off the inflorescences, but this will be for the benefit of ripening fruits (they will be much larger).

Another method of pinching involves removing excess shoots every 10 days. In this case, one of the options for the formation of a bush is selected: in one stem, in two or three. The choice is based on the variety.

Spraying against pests and feeding

The beds with tomatoes should be sprayed not only upon detection of insects, but also for prevention, since among solanaceous crops, tomatoes are the most vulnerable. How to spray you ask?

At the stage of planting, the roots of the seedlings are soaked in a solution of insecticides (for example, Aktara) to protect against wireworms, May beetles and aphids. Before the fruiting period, the beds are periodically treated with fungicidal preparations (Quadris, Ridomil Gold), which prevent the development of fungal diseases.

You can use folk remedies. Spraying the bushes with infusions of onion husks, wood ash, and garlic are considered quite effective. To scare away insects, decoctions from fragrant plants are suitable: pharmacy chamomile, wormwood, calendula, etc.

Tomatoes are sprayed at the very beginning of flowering, as well as with the appearance of ovaries

You need to feed tomatoes at least three times during the growing season. On nutrient-poor soils, this is done systematically every 2 weeks. Fertilizers are used both organic and mineral. The nitrogen content in them should be less than potassium and phosphorus. How much fertilizer should be added for processing?One of the options provides for the following composition:

• 50-60 gr. superphosphate;
• 30-40 gr. potassium chloride;
• 15 gr. ammonium nitrate;
• 10 liters of water.

If shedding of inflorescences and ovaries is observed, the plant lacks trace elements (boron). You can prepare a solution from boric acid (1 g) and water (1 L). Spray greens in the afternoon.

The culture also responds well to a solution of poultry manure. It is preferable to use complex fertilizers that contain trace elements such as magnesium, boron, copper, zinc. Popular remedies include: Master NPK-17.6.18, Kristallon et al.

Hilling and loosening

After each watering, it is advisable to slightly loosen the soil (immersion depth is about 3 cm). This helps to retain moisture in the soil, opens up access to oxygen. The first loosening can be done after the first irrigation of the seedlings. The regularity of the procedures is 1 time in 10-14 days. When the bushes grow and narrow the row spacings, you can stop loosening.

It is rational to combine the process of loosening with weeding.Weeds attract pests, create shading for tomatoes, so the fight against them is a priority.

To stimulate the formation of additional adventitious roots, it is recommended to hilling tomato bushes. They form from the bottom of the stem, but only in moist soil. Raking the soil under the plant should be several times per season. The first procedure is carried out 2-3 weeks after planting the seedlings. The second time hilling in the beds is performed after 2 weeks. In order not to injure the tomatoes once again, the event is combined with loosening and weeding.

With the help of hilling, you can achieve the appearance of additional roots on the bush

Forming tomato bushes and breaking leaves

It is necessary to form bushes only in those plants that are prone to branching. If the variety is characterized by the development of one stem, then there is no need for the procedure.

There are several ways to form bushes:

• in one stem;
• in two stems;
• in three stems.

When deciding on an option, it is worth considering the characteristics of the variety and the climatic conditions of the region. The further south the area, the more branches you can leave on the tomato. It is important to take into account that fruits that do not form on the main stem will be smaller.

When choosing the one-stem method all stepchildren who have reached a length of 3-5 cm are subject to removal. To prevent the tomato from dropping all flowers and ovaries, it is recommended to first cut off the shoots that have grown under the brushes.

Formation of a tomato bush into two stems

If the tomato is formed into two stalks, then you need to leave the lateral shoot, which formed near the first brush. And when choosing the third method, it is recommended to leave the strongest stepson developing under the second hand.

You need to remove excess shoots regularly, the only limitation to the procedure is heat. In such conditions, the plant does not tolerate any injury.

Tear off the sprouts very carefully, grasping them with your thumb and forefinger. You need to pull not towards yourself, but sharply to the side. You can also use a knife with a sharp blade. When cutting the stepson, do not touch the main stem, it is better to leave 1-2 mm of the shoot to be removed.

Soil mulching

Backfilling the soil with mulch makes it possible to reduce the number of watering, weeding and loosening. Such savings are simply necessary for summer residents visiting the plots exclusively on weekends. In addition to reducing the labor intensity of the process, protection of the soil from drying out is created.

The feasibility of mulching can be assessed based on the following advantages:

• decline weed growth (reduction in the number of weeding);
• stabilization temperature regime and soil moisture;
• defence from evaporation of moisture;
• prevention crust formation on the surface of the ground;
• earthworms they are better bred under a kind of fur coat, which increases the looseness of the soil.

To reduce the number of watering and accelerate the ripening of fruits, tomatoes are mulched

Peat, dry leaves or straw, sawdust are used as mulch. Rotted compost is also good. In the garden departments of hypermarkets today you can buy artificial mulch, which is reusable. The layer to be laid should be about 6-8 cm, so that light passes faintly through it. This will prevent overgrowth of weeds.

Surrounding the tomato garden with attention, it is worth observing the measure when watering and fertilizing, otherwise you can get the opposite effect. Experienced gardeners determine the needs of plants by their appearance, therefore 2-3 times a week you just need to inspect the bushes. Then any identified problem will be easier to localize or eliminate.

We continue the conversation about growing tomatoes in the open field. We have already talked about planting tomato seedlings in open ground, and now let's talk about the basic principles of caring for tomatoes that will allow you to get a good harvest.

Unfortunately, you can't just stick the plant into the ground, and after a couple of months come for the harvest. If something grows with such an attitude, then it will not be much. To harvest a decent crop of tomatoes, after planting seedlings in open ground and before harvesting, a number of measures are needed:

Tomato care activities

1. frost protection
2. regular watering
3. feeding
4. tillage:
   - loosening
   - weeding
   - mulching
   - hilling
5. protection from disease
6. tying up
7. plant formation
   - removal of leaves
   - pinching
   - thinning of ovaries
   - pinching

Frost protection

If you plant seedlings in the ground early, you can get an earlier harvest and increase the fruiting period. However, there is a risk of death of the planted plants from frost. In most cases, tomatoes die at temperatures from +2 to –1˚С.

It is most effective to make a general film cover for the entire garden. To do this, it is convenient to dig in wire arcs, on which the film is stretched during a cold snap. If the temperature does not rise above 15˚С during the day, the film can be left on.

You can make individual shelters-caps from paper, fabric, film, boxes - any material that can be used to cover a tomato bush, creating your own microclimate under it.

We cover the bush with a bucket

Low-growing seedlings can be covered with soil before the onset of frost and dug out after the frost has passed. Try to cover the entire plant with earth. If the tops do freeze, stepchildren will grow from the preserved lateral buds, from which you can get a good harvest.

We bury the bush

Watering

Tomatoes need rare but abundant watering. Frequent watering in small portions is harmful, however, as well as excessive ones. Lack of moisture leads to damage to the fruit with apical rot, excess creates favorable conditions for gray rot and phytophthora.

Tomatoes love dry tops, so watering is done only at the root. When watering by sprinkling (from a watering can, from a hose with a sprinkler), the temperature of the soil and air drops sharply, which has a bad effect on flowering, increases the shedding of flowers, delays the setting and ripening of fruits. In addition, air humidity rises, which contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

Watering at the root

The need for watering can be determined by the appearance of the leaves. With a lack of moisture, they darken and wither in the heat.

The first 10-15 days after planting the seedlings, the plants can be left without watering. The water poured into the hole during planting should be enough for rooting and growth.

When the active growth of plants begins and ovaries appear, the need for water increases sharply. If there is no rain during this period, watering is carried out every 5-7 days, pouring 3-5 liters of water into each hole.

During the period of fruit growth, the soil must be constantly moistened (this can be achieved by mulching). Sharp changes in soil moisture cause a halt in the growth of green fruits and cracking of ripe ones.

When the ripening of fruits begins, watering of early ripening low-growing varieties is reduced, and tall varieties, on the contrary, increase.

Top dressing

Usually, the first feeding is done about 10 days after planting the seedlings in the ground. 5-6 g of urea, 20-25 g of double superphosphate, 6-10 g of potassium salt or a similar amount of other nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are applied per square meter.

Further feeding is carried out every 7-15 days, depending on what is fed and on the condition of the plants. With a lack of nitrogen, plant growth stops, the leaves and stems have a pale green color, then the leaves turn yellow and fall off, starting from the bottom of the stem. With a lack of phosphorus, plants poorly assimilate nitrogen, which leads to a cessation of growth. The stem and petioles acquire a bluish color, later the leaves turn gray.With a lack of potassium, small yellow-brown spots are formed at the edges of the leaves, the edges of the leaves are curled, brown spots appear on the fruits.

At the beginning of growth, it is better to use liquid organic fertilizers - a solution of cow manure or poultry manure, 0.6-0.8 liters per plant.

The development of tomatoes is well influenced by feeding with herb infusion. Grass is placed in a barrel (plastic or well-painted metal), filled with water and closed loosely with a lid. After two weeks, the infusion is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and used for irrigation (3-5 liters per plant). The best infusion is obtained from nettle, but you can use any herb, including with seeds - the seeds die from long soaking and fermentation. Such fertilizer has a great advantage - you do not need to buy it, you do not need to go anywhere for it, usually there is a lot of grass both on the site itself and next to it. With good soil fertility, you can not use either mineral fertilizers or manure - an infusion of grass will be enough. Watering with infusion is done every 7-14 days, depending on the state of the plants. It is impossible to water with undiluted infusion, so as not to "burn" the roots and soil with nitrogen.

When choosing a place for a barrel, keep in mind that a very unpleasant odor is emitted when the grass ferments. Therefore, it is better to place such a barrel in a remote corner of the site.

Loading the barrel with grass

In addition to the usual one, foliar feeding can be carried out (as an addition to the main food, but not as a substitute for it). For this, readily soluble fertilizers are used, for example, 16 g of urea, 10 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate for 10 liters of water. Potassium chloride and other fertilizers containing chlorine are not used because tomatoes do not tolerate it well. Superphosphate does not completely dissolve in water, therefore it is soaked for a day in water in a ratio of 1:10 and periodically stirred, and before spraying, the solution is filtered through several layers of gauze. For spraying, you can also use the herb infusion, diluting it in a ratio of 1:20.

Spraying is best done in the evening so that the solution applied to the leaves dries slowly. Such dressings are often combined with treatment against diseases - to combat fungal diseases 2-3 times per season, especially after rains, the leaves are treated with Bordeaux liquid or other copper-containing preparations.

Soil cultivation (loosening, weeding, mulching, hilling)

After watering, the soil is loosened, destroying the formed crust, and at the same time destroying the weeds. The first loosening should be deep (about 10 cm deep). This creates conditions for good heating of the soil, which is important for the start of active plant growth, and provides air access to the roots. Subsequent weeding is carried out to a depth of 4-5 cm to prevent compaction and flooding of the soil. If this is not done, the functioning of the root system deteriorates significantly. Of course, loosening, especially near the trunk, should be done carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Loosen the soil

Weeds take nutrients from tomatoes, block out the light, increase humidity and develop diseases - all these are serious reasons for weeding the beds and rows on a regular basis. Weeds (preferably crushed and without seeds) can be left in the aisles and in the beds - they will serve as mulch (soil cover, retarding the growth of weeds and evaporation of moisture from the soil) and an additional source of carbon dioxide necessary for plant growth.

In addition to chopped grass, compost, humus, and a special film can be used as mulch. It is better to start mulching the soil in the beds after the planted plants take root and begin to grow actively - mulch, if it is not a dark film, can prevent the soil from warming up, which is necessary at the initial stage of growth. Until that time, all weeds can be used to mulch the row spacings.

Grass mulching

Hilling is a controversial procedure. Some experts argue that hilling is absolutely necessary, others say that it is unnecessary and even harmful. Based on our own experience, we can confidently say that you can get a good harvest with or without hilling.

To understand whether it is necessary to huddle tomato bushes, you need to figure out what it is for at all. The meaning of hilling is simple - it allows the tomato to grow additional roots. For example, if hilling is carried out after the appearance of the lower stepsons, the stems of these stepsons will give their own roots and will grow almost like separate plants, which will allow you to get more full-fledged bushes (and therefore harvest) with the same amount of seedlings. Hilling tomatoes of low-growing varieties makes the plants more resistant, which allows you not to waste time and effort tying them up. Otherwise, if the seedlings are planted deep enough, the root system will be developed enough not to huddle.

Hilling stepson

Plant formation

To accelerate the ripening of fruits and increase the yield, the tomato bush must be formed. Formation includes leaf removal, pinching, ovary thinning and pinching. For novice gardeners, formation, especially pinching, raises many questions, which we will answer in detail in the second part of the article.

Bunches of tomatoes

This year I decided to try myself as a gardener and grow tomatoes. I seem to have figured out the sowing of seeds - the seedlings have sprung up and are already flaunting on the windowsill, waiting for their time to move to the garden. Tell me, what should be the further care of tomato seedlings after planting them in the ground?

A good harvest of tomatoes depends not only on strong seedlings. Timely measures for the care of young plants also play an important role. Indeed, with a lack of moisture or nutrition, tomatoes can not only get sick, but even die altogether.

Caring for tomato seedlings after planting in the ground includes:

• watering;
• loosening the soil;
• hilling seedlings;
• mulching;
• fertilization of plants;
• the formation of tomatoes.

Watering after planting and during the growth of bushes

When transplanting seedlings into open ground, the holes are watered abundantly, so the next 1.5-2 weeks the plants do not need additional moisture, they are quite enough for them.

In the future, you should only maintain the soil under the bushes in a moist state, watering it as it dries up until the beginning of fruit setting. But from this moment, tomatoes require more frequent watering so that the soil constantly has the same moisture. Its drops can provoke the onset of diseases, a stop in the growth of green fruits, or a violation of the integrity of the shell of ripe tomatoes.

It is necessary to water the tomatoes in the evening, directing the water strictly to the root. Plants get sick from drops on the leaves.

Loosening and hilling

To provide air access to the root system after each watering, be sure to loosen the soil around the bushes, while removing weeds. In this case, the loosening depth is:

• up to 12 cm - at the first loosening;
• up to 5 cm - with the further implementation of the procedure.

Hilling bushes is necessary when adventitious roots appear on the main stem. This process improves the development of the entire root system, enriches the soil with oxygen and helps to retain moisture after watering.

During the season, tomatoes are recommended to spud at least 2 times.

Mulching row spacings

Laying mulch in the space between the rows of planted tomatoes will reduce the amount of watering and will bring the ripening of the tomato closer. As mulch, you can use green manure, rotted sawdust, straw or peat. Mulch prevents not only the rapid evaporation of moisture, but also the appearance and reproduction of weeds.

Top dressing tomato

To provide plants with nutrients, 4 dressings should be carried out:

• the first - 21 days after transplanting seedlings to the garden;
• the second - when blooming the 2nd flower brush;
• the third - when blooming the 3rd brush;
• the fourth - 14 days after the previous feeding.

As a fertilizer for tomatoes, it is good to use infusion of bird droppings, Bordeaux mixture, wood ash, urea, superphosphate.

Plant formation

Most tomatoes need pinching or pinching, especially tall and large-fruited varieties. This contributes to the growth of fruits and accelerates their ripening. You can form a bush in 1, 2 or 3 stems. After pinching, at least 5 brushes with fruits and 30 leaves should be left on the plant.

The first care for tomatoes in the open field - video

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Growing tomatoes for delicious fruits is not difficult for experienced gardeners. Ignorance of the peculiarities of development and the requirements of culture always provokes the appearance of diseases or deterioration of quality characteristics. In this quick overview, we'll show you how to grow tomatoes outdoors to get a high yield.

Variety of tomato varieties

reference Information

Tomatoes are a flowering plant from the nightshade family, which is commonly grown in agriculture as an annual. The homeland of the culture is the humid warm climate of Latin America. In Europe, tomatoes first appeared in the 16th century as a decorative element, but soon became an indispensable component of many national dishes.

The plant has a highly developed root system in the form of a rod. This structure allows the crop to extract nutrients and water from the soil. With increased moisture, roots form on any part of the stem that comes into contact with the ground. Therefore, tomatoes are propagated not only by seeds, but also by cuttings.

Tomatoes give excellent yields both in the greenhouse and in the open field

In the conditions of the domestic climate, it is recommended to grow tomatoes by seedlings.

A tropical plant is demanding for light and warmth. The optimum temperature for development is from +20 degrees. When it gets colder, pollen stops forming, and the tomatoes will shed their buds.

Planting temperature of tomatoes - air about +20, soil 12-15 degrees

Lack of solar energy will affect the appearance of the crop and the ability to hold ovaries.

Landing

Growing tomatoes in the open field begins with the selection of a site. In order for the culture to develop well and not get sick, they give preference to a sunny place.

You cannot plant seedlings along fences or tall trees, as the shade will negatively affect the quality of the fruit and the timing of ripening.

Tomatoes are involved in crop rotation, so the correct selection of predecessor plants is important. Recommended crops:

• cucumbers;
• cabbage;
• turnip;
• beet;
• onion.

Closely related plants have the same diseases and pests, and this will negatively affect the health and productivity of tomatoes.

Remember: Prohibited crops are all types of nightshade:

• potato;
• tomatoes;
• pepper;
• eggplant.

It is recommended to prepare the site in advance. Experienced gardeners dig up a place for tomatoes in the fall. Humus or phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added to the soil. As a last resort, a handful of wood ash and 50 g of any complex preparation are poured into each hole.

When are tomatoes planted outdoors?

Planting tomato seedlings in prepared soil

The seedlings will die during the very first night frosts, so they need to be adjusted depending on the climatic features of the region:

• southern regions - at the end of April;
• middle band - mid-May;
• in the northern regions - early or mid June.

Holes for tomato seedlings are dug 5 cm deeper than a peat pot. The plants are carefully sprinkled with earth and watered with warm liquid. Experienced farmers immediately mulch the soil with sawdust at the base of the roots. The procedure will improve air circulation and facilitate further care.

Watering

Water is the basis for the life of tomatoes, but novice gardeners misunderstand the requirements of plants, so they flood the culture. Before the irrigation procedures, the clod of earth necessarily dries out. It is recommended to water infrequently, but abundantly. In moderate weather and no rainfall, the plantation is moistened once a week.

"For undersized young bushes, 2-3 liters will be enough, while watering adult giants will require at least 10 liters."

How to properly irrigate tomatoes outdoors? The procedure is carried out in the morning or in the evening so that there are no sudden changes in temperature. The stream of water is gently brought to the base of the plants, avoiding exposing the roots. Experienced farmers dig out special grooves through which moisture enters the bushes without loss.

Remember: the soil should not be allowed to dry out during the flowering of the culture. A mistake in leaving will lead to dropping of buds and a decrease in yield.

It is recommended to water the plantation in advance, but avoid stagnation of water at the roots. Sprinklers are prohibited, as they knock the ovaries. Before irrigation, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed.

Top dressing

Caring for tomatoes includes fertilizing. The roots of tomatoes look for nutrients at a depth of 2.5 m.In different periods of development, plants need different feeding.

Liquid top dressing from herbal infusion and yeast

1. Seedling. To build up green mass and roots, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied.
2. Bloom. Magnesium and boron are needed to keep the buds from falling off. Spraying on the sheet is recommended.
3. Fruit ripening. Phosphorus and potassium accelerate the reddening of tomatoes.

Remember: you cannot overuse fertilizers. An excess of trace elements is dangerous due to the accumulation of nitrates in tomatoes, which will negatively affect human health.

An overfed bush increases its green mass to the detriment of flowering and fruit formation. Stopping the application and thinning the foliage will help to correct the situation.

Ash is an excellent phosphorus-potassium fertilizer

How to fertilize tomatoes correctly? Before the procedure, the bushes are thoroughly irrigated with warm liquid so that chemicals do not burn the roots. The dressing solution is carefully poured under the base of the tomato.

Remember: during the growing season, you cannot add humus more than three times. It is recommended to alternate organic and industrial fertilizers.

After planting seedlings, agrarians carry out two mandatory feeding - in early June and in early July. From the middle of summer, fertilizers are stopped. Chlorine-containing preparations are prohibited, as they negatively affect the quality of the fruit and the health of the consumer.

What else is worth remembering

Caring for tomatoes isn't just about watering or fertilizing. Tall tomatoes are tied up after the seedlings are planted in open ground. Plants are fixed on pegs with wire or temporary trellises are erected. The culture does not come into contact with the soil, which protects against diseases. Increasing the aeration of the fruit improves the palatability.

Tying tomatoes to pegs will protect them from disease.

You cannot plant different varieties of plants in the same garden bed, as cross-pollination will lead to unpredictable results. It is recommended to lightly shake the stem of the tomato to improve the flow of pollen into the flowers. The procedure is carried out in the morning 2-3 times a week.

The formation of bushes allows you to get a rich harvest with modest varietal characteristics.

One stem is recommended for large-fruited crops to speed up maturation in northern regions. Two- and three-stem plants ripen longer, but they delight gardeners with an abundance of small tomatoes.

Not all varieties need to be pinned - to remove the processes from the axils of the branches. There are varieties that do not allow additional shoots. How to carry out the procedure correctly?

Stepsonizing tomatoes - you need to remove the stepson from No. 3

Gently break off or cut off with a knife the offspring, not allowing it to reach 2 cm. Activities are carried out every week after sunset.

"If in summer there are prolonged rains with a cold snap, it is advisable not only to pinch the tomatoes, but also to remove parts of the shoots and all the lower leaves from them, so that the bushes warm up faster and better ventilate."

Depending on the variety and region of growth, the first crop is harvested in mid or late July.

Mulching tomatoes conserves moisture in the soil

Remember: do not water the plants before harvesting.

Excess moisture will negatively affect the keeping quality of tomatoes. In autumn, when the temperature drops to +7 degrees, it is recommended to completely harvest the tomatoes, as the risk of diseases increases.

The largest, healthy fruits are advised to be left to obtain planting material. The seeds of the hybrids cannot be used for sowing the next year. The characteristics of the second generation are unpredictable, so it's not even worth trying.

Good harvest of tomatoes in the greenhouse

Experienced farmers propagate rare species by cuttings. For this, strong, healthy branches are cut from the bushes and rooted in a pot. In the spring, the plant is cut into seedlings.

We figured out how to care for tomatoes outdoors. Our recommendations will help you grow a healthy crop and get a high yield without any problems. An excess or lack of attention is dangerous for tomatoes, which will lead to the death of plants.

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Secrets of growing tomatoes in the open field

Growing tomatoes outdoors can be difficult for novice gardeners, as the plant is quite demanding to care for. It is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the culture when preparing for planting, watering and feeding tomatoes, as well as provide them with protection from pests and diseases.

For reference to the reader

Tomato (Latin Solanum lycopersicum) belongs to the Solanaceae family. The fruits of the plant are berries, but the culture belongs to vegetables, therefore, the tomato is equally correctly called both a berry and a vegetable. The birthplace of culture is South America.

When to plant tomatoes in open ground

The culture does not tolerate frost, therefore, it is necessary to plant seedlings in open soil at a stable average daily temperature. Do not rush: early planted bushes will hurt and lag behind in development.

Planting tomatoes outdoors in May

• In the southern regions of Russia, you can start the procedure for planting seedlings of early maturing varieties at the end of April;
• In the Urals and the Moscow region - in the first half of May (the landing time can be shifted by 10-15 days if the night temperature drops below 15 degrees Celsius);
• Mid-season tomatoes are planted later: in the South - in early May, in central Russia - in early June.

The most favorable days for planting tomatoes according to the lunar calendar are May 1-3, 9-10 and 19-20. It is recommended to carry out the procedure in the second half of the day, preferably in cloudy but not rainy weather.

Features of the choice of location and preparation of soil for tomatoes

When choosing a plot of a vegetable garden for planting tomato seedlings, it is recommended to give preference to well-lit southern slopes that are protected from the wind. Since the culture does not like waterlogging, you should choose elevated places with light loamy soil of low acidity.

Preparing the soil for planting tomatoes

Crop rotation rules for tomatoes

Crop rotation allows the land to rest and replenish the micronutrients consumed by the plant. Therefore, the place of tomato planting should be changed annually. It is important to take into account which plants grew earlier.

Tomatoes grow much better, cultivation and care in the open field, which are carried out in the beds where they grew: legumes, herbs and root crops. Crops such as potatoes, peppers or eggplants are undesirable. They can cause contamination of the earth with late blight, which will go on to seedlings.

Preparing the soil for tomatoes in several stages

Soil disinfection can be carried out in the fall.For the procedure, a solution of copper sulfate is used: 1 tablespoon of copper per 10 liters of water. Consumption is 1 liter per square meter of the garden.

In the spring, the soil is fertilized with organic matter and mineral salts: per square meter of soil is applied in equal proportions, 1 bucket each: peat, humus and sawdust. Add 2 tablespoons of phosphate and a couple of glasses of ash.

The soil is well dug up, watered with a warm solution of bleach for disinfection (2 liters per square meter). The preparation of the ridges must be carried out in advance: 5-7 days before transplanting tomatoes into open soil.

Tomatoes planting and care in the open field

The quantity and quality of the crop often depends on more than just proper care. It is necessary to properly prepare the seeds before sowing and take care of the growing seedlings, and after planting in the soil, ensure good watering and feeding.

Cooking tomato seeds for sowing

Complex of pre-sowing measures

Tomato care begins with pre-sowing seed preparation. You can follow all the procedures described, or those that you deem necessary.

Culling

The seeds are placed in a saline solution (1 teaspoon per 0.2 l of water), mixed thoroughly and left to stand for 10 minutes. For planting, full-weight seeds are chosen, which have settled on the bottom of the container, they are washed with water and dried.

Warming up

The seeds are placed in tissue bags and heated on a battery for several days before the sowing procedure.

Disinfection or etching

Necessary for disinfection of planting material. The seeds are soaked for 20 minutes with 1% iodine solution.

Seed replenishment

For a day, they are soaked in ready-made nutrient solutions (Epin or potassium humate). You can use potato juice.

Soaking

The grains in a gauze bag are placed in warm water for 10-12 hours. Every 3-4 hours it is necessary to change the liquid, and let the grains breathe.

Germination

The planting material is placed on a damp cloth or paper towel. It is important to ensure that the material does not dry out and periodically add liquid until the seeds swell and begin to hatch;

Hardening

To ensure friendly shoots, the seeds are placed in a refrigerator overnight, and during the day they are kept at a temperature of 20 degrees. Celsius, the procedure is repeated three times.

Planting tomatoes in open ground

Grown seedlings should be prepared before transplanting. It is necessary to harden in the air and accustom the sprouts to sunlight, otherwise immature sprouts may die from a sharp change in conditions. Air for 2-3 days, then take out the seedlings to fresh air for a week, gradually increasing the time.

We plant tomatoes in open ground

Important

You can plant tomatoes in open ground when the height of the bushes reaches 20-25 cm, and the stem has 7-9 large leaves.

Before transplanting, tomato seedlings are well moistened. The procedure is carried out as follows: the beds are marked out in advance: for high varieties of tomatoes, the distance between the bushes should be up to 60 cm, and the same distance between the rows, and for undersized ones: 40 and 50 cm, respectively. The wells are made 25-30 cm deep, filled with water and allowed to be completely absorbed.

The finished seedlings are removed from the containers and planted together with a wet earthy clod. If the bush is very elongated, the lower pair of leaves is cut off on it and the stem is buried in the hole, but so that it does not bend or break.

Tomato seedlings are taken out together with a wet earthen clod

The roots are covered with earth, a little rotted manure is added and sprinkled again. Then they are tamped with hands and watered: 1-2 liters for each bush.

Immediately after planting, the beds should be covered with foil for 6-8 days. During this time, the plants will get stronger and take root, watering is not yet recommended. After that, the shelter can be removed and the planting moistened.

Outdoor tomato care

Tomato bushes must be regularly weeded, hilled and loosened.A peg is placed in advance near each plant. For the highest varieties, the height of the support should be at least 80 cm. It is recommended to use a synthetic thread that does not cause rotting of plants.

Watering tomatoes outdoors

Tomatoes do not like excess moisture, stagnant water can cause the development of fungal diseases. Until the ovary appears, it is recommended to only slightly moisten the soil, preventing it from drying out.

Drip irrigation system for outdoor tomatoes

Watering tomatoes in the open field when ovaries appear is carried out every 7-8 days, 1 liter per plant is enough. During the period of growth and ripening of fruits, the frequency of watering is increased to 5-6 days, the amount of water is increased to 2 liters per bush. It is necessary to pour water under the root, avoiding contact with the leaves, as this can cause apical rot. Drip irrigation is recommended.

Advice

It is recommended to add a couple of pinches of wood ash per bucket to the water during watering (with automated drip irrigation, you can sprinkle the beds) a couple of pinches of wood ash per bucket, such feeding of tomatoes in the open field will strengthen the immunity of plants and accelerate their growth.

Water should be taken from a well or well, and tap water should be defended. Watering is best done in the afternoon. The water must be warm, as cold water will only harm the plants.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the open field

The procedure is performed every 2 weeks. For fertilization, use 15 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium per 10 liters of liquid. For one bush, 1 liter of solution is used. When fertilizing, it is important that the amount of nitrogen does not exceed phosphorus and potassium.

Feeding tomatoes with organics in the open field

Top dressing for tomatoes in the open field according to folk recipes will help to abandon the use of chemicals and pesticides. The most popular among gardeners:

• Infusion of nettle on water will saturate the soil with such trace elements as potassium, calcium and manganese.
• The wood ash solution will help protect tomatoes from pests such as slugs and snails, while saturating the soil with potassium and phosphorus.
• Infusion of nettle with yeast or other green fertilizer will greatly increase the release of methane and nitrogen, which are beneficial for plants.

How to tie tomatoes, care and pinching

Outdoor tomato care is not only about watering and feeding. Immediately after removing the film cover from the garden, it is necessary to put a peg near each tomato bush.

It is placed on the north side at a distance of 10 cm from the stem and driven into the ground by 30-40 cm. The above-ground part of the support is usually 1 m. The bush begins to be tied during the period of its active growth. It is unnecessary to tie the stem tightly to the support, the twine should simply support the plant in an upright position. As you grow, the garter is lifted higher.

Garter tomato bushes

In order for the fruits to be larger and they ripen faster, it is necessary to form bushes. Most often, one main stem is left on the plant, and the excess shoots are removed. The pinching procedure must be carried out regularly.

Tomato pinching procedure

Young shoots emanating from the base of already growing brushes must be removed, like all leaves below the first branches. They are simply pinched off with two fingers.

Outdoor tomato care video

Prevention of diseases and pests of tomatoes

Growing tomatoes outdoors makes them especially vulnerable to common diseases and pests. Compliance with preventive measures will partially avoid problems.

• Observe the crop rotation, try not to plant tomatoes next to potatoes;
• Dig up the soil well before planting and disinfect;
• Plants affected by diseases or pests must be removed to protect healthy bushes;
• During watering, make sure that drops do not fall on the leaves;
• Refuse watering during a period of severe temperature drop;
• Give preference to new varieties and hybrids that are resistant to common diseases;
• Use folk remedies to repel pests that damage plants and carry diseases (infusion of garlic or onions).

Choosing a variety and growing tomatoes in the open field video

Outcome

Growing tomatoes, planting and care in the open field will seem simple and enjoyable if you provide the culture with everything you need and follow agricultural techniques. As a result, you will get an excellent harvest.

Do not be afraid to experiment and try new varieties bred by breeders, grow tomatoes that will be much easier to care for due to their resistance to diseases and temperature extremes.

Growing tomatoes in the open field is practiced as often as in the protected. The timing of the onset of fruiting with such cultivation is postponed by a couple of weeks, but this does not in the least affect the quality of the crop and its quantity. A lot of attention will have to be paid to caring for tomatoes in the ground, but the result will certainly justify all the labor costs.

Spring tends to come with surprises and getting early production is questionable. You will learn how to properly grow tomatoes in the open field and avoid common mistakes by reading this material.

Agricultural technology for growing tomatoes: planting seedlings in open ground

Tomato seedlings are planted for cultivation in the open field after the threat of return frosts has passed, which usually occurs at the end of the first decade of May. It is recommended to plant seedlings at the age of at least 55 days for tall varieties and hybrids, for low-growing ones - 40-45 days. Planting continues until the end of May, and sowing is carried out with seeds directly into the ground. Seedless late tomatoes will go to autumn for winter harvesting.

In the presence of spandbond films, agrospan care is easier, planting seedlings in the ground can be done 10-12 days earlier than average.

The best precursors for tomatoes are cabbage, cucumber, legumes. It is better to place the beds in well-lit, heated areas with highly fertile soils, but light and medium-textured soils are quite suitable for tomatoes.

To facilitate care, planting in open ground tomatoes of low-growing varieties and hybrids is carried out according to the scheme 25-30 cm in a row and with row spacing of 60-70 cm, tall according to the scheme, respectively, 50-60 x 70-80 cm.

Before starting to grow tomatoes in the ground, on the eve of planting, already hardened seedlings are abundantly watered with a solution of the microbiological preparation Extrasol and the next day they are planted with a lump of earth. According to the correct technology for growing tomatoes in the open field, a row is cut along a cord to a depth of 10-12 cm, up to 0.5 kg of an organic-mineral mixture is added under each plant, or a special fertilizer for tomatoes is added. The plant is planted to a depth of the first true leaves. If the seedlings are overgrown, then it is advisable to plant obliquely and cover the root system from above with soil no more than 3-5 cm.Remember that the agricultural technology for growing tomatoes in open ground does not provide for deep planting of overgrown plants in cool soil, from this the lower roots may die out ... Of course, the plant in this case will not die, but it will stay at least two weeks in growth, during which time new additional roots will begin to form on the buried part of the stem.

The technology of growing tomatoes in open ground involves the obligatory watering of the plants after planting with a small amount of water with Extrasol (10 ml per 10 liters of water) and sprinkle with fresh soil or any available mulch. The bacteria in the Extrasol preparation settle on the roots of the plant, create a certain polysaccharide shell, enhance the immune system, prevent decay, stimulate growth,have a transport function and move nutrients to growing points.

How to properly grow tomatoes in the open field: plant care

After 3-4 days after planting, adding soil to the roots of plants can be done without fear. The soil has already been warmed up by this time, the root system of a young plant is in a comfortable state, and additional roots begin to form immediately. Further care for tomatoes in the open field consists in regular watering and subsequent loosening of the formed soil crust, removal of stepchildren and formation of a stem, hilling, weeding, pest and disease control.

Watering tomato plants should be moderate, avoiding waterlogging and dryness of the soil. Irregular watering of plants in hot summer often leads to diseases of the fruit with apical rot and cracking. It is advisable to water in the morning hours and, if possible, by the end of the day, carry out light loosening, which means, remove excess wet vapors and avoid fungal diseases.

Observing the rules of caring for tomatoes when grown in open ground, loosen the soil after each rain or watering. In hot dry weather, loosening helps to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and in rainy cold weather it provides better gas exchange between air and soil, reduces the possibility of fungal diseases.

To give the stems reliable stability, to enhance the growth of the root system while caring for tomatoes in the open field, a 2-4-fold hilling with moist soil is carried out.

Growing tomatoes in the Moscow region: the secrets of dressing in the open field

When growing tomatoes in open ground in the Moscow region, the first feeding is carried out 10-14 days after planting seedlings in the garden.

The second is at the beginning of mass flowering. It is better to use water-soluble fertilizers with a set of microelements in a chelated form. For example, Aquariums (Junior, Color, Fruit) Master or Fertika Lux, as well as such as calcium and potassium nitrate, potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate, a series of Raikatov Start, Development, Final or Nutri-vant. Once every two weeks, Extrasol is added to the tank mixture to the water-soluble fertilizers at the rate of 10 ml for every 10 liters. In this case, 40% less fertilizer is given. Watering with such a composition can also be carried out through drip irrigation, and the droppers are not clogged, and such irrigation is more efficient and economical compared to other methods. Good results are obtained by using the humic preparation Rostock after one watering. The products are of high quality and with the lowest nitrate content.

The third feeding when growing tomatoes in the ground is done during the period of fruit formation.

When cultivating tall tomatoes, at least two additional additional dressings will be required. Simultaneously with top dressing, foliar dressing is also given, and in parallel, measures are taken to protect tomatoes from fungal diseases, such as late blight, Alternaria and others, as well as against pests (ticks, scoops and whiteflies).

Watch the video about growing tomatoes in the open field, which demonstrates how to properly feed the plants:

How to properly grow tomatoes in the open field: pinching

Another secret of growing tomatoes in the open field is the correct pinching. The formation of plants begins with the regular removal of stepchildren. Tall tomatoes are usually grown in one stem, but under certain weather conditions and characteristics of the variety or hybrid - in two stems. In this case, the second stem is the shoot under the first flower brush. All other stepsons are removed, the first is the main stem. As the fruits of tomatoes are formed and set on the first two clusters, they begin to remove the lower leaves one by one to the first flower cluster, then to the second, and so on. No more than 3-5 leaves are left at the top. When laying any tomato 5-7 brushes pinch the tops of the plants.This technique is called vershkovanie and is carried out in order to accelerate the ripening of fruits during prolonged vegetation in a cool summer.

Low-growing early-ripening tomatoes can be grown without pinching, but in order to obtain an earlier and more harmonious harvest, the first two stepsons are removed, and if tomatoes are cultivated in the northern region, then they must not only be pinned, but also be tied to the trellis or stakes.

As shown in the photo, when growing tomatoes in the open field with the onset of hot weather in July, it is advisable to shade the plants from the scorching rays with translucent breathing films:

It is also useful in the heat to spray with growth and fruiting stimulants in order to avoid shedding flowers and burning fruits.

How to Grow Good Outdoor Tomatoes: Fertilizing

During the care of tomatoes when grown outdoors, plants react strongly to soil fertility and the introduction of mineral fertilizers.

These plants are demanding on soil fertility. But nitrogen plays a special role in the period of growth and development. Timely feeding of tomato with nitrogen fertilizers contributes to the excellent formation of all vegetative parts of the plant, fruit formation and fruit filling. With a lack of nitrogen, the growth of stems and leaves is sharply delayed, especially during the period of growing seedlings. Plants acquire a pale green color, then turn yellow, starting from the main vein towards the edges, the lower leaves turn grayish yellow and fall off.

With an excess of nitrogen, the plants "fatten", which leads to a decrease in fruit formation and tomato resistance to diseases.

Timely introduction of phosphorus in the initial period of cultivation contributes to the development of a good root system and the formation of generative organs.

With a lack of phosphorus, the absorption of not only nitrogen, but also other nutrients by plants is disrupted, which leads to a slowdown in their growth, the formation of ovaries and the ripening of fruits. A reddish-purple color appears on the underside of the leaf, then their color becomes grayish, and the stems and leaf petioles become purple-brown. To prevent phosphorus starvation of plants, phosphorus fertilizers must be added to the soil before planting seedlings.

Potassium is necessary for tomato plants in the early stages of development for the formation of stems and ovaries. It is necessary to know and remember that feeding with potash fertilizers increases the cold resistance of plants.

The combined application of phosphorus and potassium accelerates flowering, fruit ripening and increases disease resistance. With potassium starvation, the leaves begin to acquire a dark green color at first, then yellowish-brown specks form along their edges, which then merge into a continuous marginal border of dead tissue. The growth of the stems is suspended, spots and uneven ripening may appear on the fruits.

Other nutrients also play an important role: calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, boron, sulfur, molybdenum, zinc, chlorine, iodine, copper. Most of them are found in Fertika Lux fertilizer.

Remember that for normal growth, development and a raft of fruiting, you need to continuously provide the plant with the necessary fertilizers. Weakened plants are more likely to get sick, the yield and its quality are sharply reduced. The lack of fertilizers can be easily eliminated if you know the secrets of growing tomatoes in the open field and carry out foliar dressing with Fertika Lux, Raikat Final, Razormin. But excess fertilizer can be very harmful, especially in dry weather. Therefore, strictly observe the rates and timing of fertilization recommended by the instructions.

Tomato fruits begin to be harvested as they ripen from the end of June. Fruiting can be extended to cold weather, if you follow the correct agricultural technology and plant protection. With the onset of cold nights and morning growth in August, it is advisable to cover the planting of tomatoes with spandbond films.

Diseases of tomatoes in the open field when grown in the suburbs

The most common diseases of tomatoes when grown outdoors in conditions Moscow region are: late blight, viruses of tobacco and cucumber mosaic, root rot. There are varieties and hybrids that are relatively resistant to viruses and root rot. There is no resistance to late blight in cultivated plants.

Signs of tomato disease with the tobacco mosaic virus: the leaves are covered with yellow spots, the crown of the plant is thinning, the leaves are filiform, the fruits are small, the flowers are double, deformed. Such plants must be removed and destroyed immediately. The virus cannot be cured. You just need to sow with seeds after two years of storage. The tool must be disinfected during operation. Use for cultivation varieties and hybrids that are resistant to this disease. These include F1 Dobrun, F1 Kineshma, F1 Grandma's Gift, F1 Funtik, F1 Kirzhach, F1 Rosemary and tomatoes from other manufacturers.

Using the tips for growing tomatoes outdoors, you will never make the following mistakes:

• Return to the previous place not earlier than after 4 years.
• Soil disinfection is not carried out. To do this, it is necessary to spray before planting on the dry soil of future beds with a solution of Alirin-B with Gamair or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
• Before planting and after planting, the soil was not spilled with Extrasol (10 ml per 10 l of water). It is advisable to plant seedlings in cloudy times and without deepening the root system.
• Remember! Top dressing and watering should be carried out regularly in the morning and, when dry, loosen and huddle with damp earth.
• Remember! After each spraying, it is imperative to carry out protective measures with the addition of growth and fruiting stimulants.

This outdoor tomato grower video provides tips from experienced growers for plant care:

The main secrets of growing tomatoes in the open field

Many vegetable growers are interested in how to grow good tomatoes outdoors and avoid fattening them?

Intensive plant growth, dark, almost black color of the leaf, thick stems, curled leaves at the top of the plants and the absence of fruits are signs of excess nitrogen nutrition. Tomatoes are "fattening"! Most often, this picture is observed with excessive application of organic fertilizers for crops and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers with a high nitrogen content.

Seedlings are often stretched out. This is due to a lack of light, too high a temperature, with abundant watering and thickening. The seedlings must be properly arranged before the leaves close. With a clear extension of the seedlings, watering should be limited, the temperature in the room should be reduced to about 18-19 ° C, it is these factors with a lack of light that cause excessive growth.

And how to properly limit the growth of tomatoes in order to grow them in the open field strong and productive? The fruiting period of indeterminate tomato is quite long. In suburban conditions and depending on the region of residence, it is impossible from such plants to completely wait for the end of growth and fruiting, unless, of course, the plants get sick or die from early autumn frosts. The pinching is carried out about a month before the onset of the final harvest. Two leaves are left above the last inflorescence for the complete filling of the set fruits. Usually, in the conditions of the southern region, they manage to fill and ripen the fruits on 10-11 inflorescences.

Another important question is how to grow tomatoes in the open and avoid drying out the leaves? Drying of the lower leaves in seedlings can be caused by several reasons. The first is the presence of sucking pests. The fight against them can be carried out both with the help of chemical, and in cases of the beginning of the maturation of products with the use of biological agents: Fitoverm, Fitosporin, Bitoxibacillin. The second reason is that the concentration of salts in the soil is too high, while the rest of the leaves of the plant droop. The third reason is lack of nutrition.In all likelihood, it is necessary to make urgent feeding with small doses of water-soluble fertilizers such as Fertika Lux or humic preparations or the microbiological preparation Extrasol.

In order to grow tomatoes in the open field in the way that proper agricultural technology suggests, it is imperative to fight pests. The most dangerous of them are the nightshade miner, whitefly, garden (cotton) scoop, tomato moth. For the most part, this is the result of the lack of preventive measures in the process of growing tomatoes. It is necessary to get rid of these pests in advance with one of the approved drugs. One of the main secrets of growing tomatoes in the open field is the use of only high-quality biological products.

Hello dear friends!

We continue the tomato theme. After reading the previous article, I hope you learned something new about tomatoes, about the variety of varieties of this wonderful plant, about how to prepare tomato seeds and the timing of their planting, about caring for seedlings.

In this article, we will discuss how to grow an excellent tomato crop in our summer cottages, provided that the plants are planted in open ground.

So, the topic of our today's article is - growing tomatoes in the open field.

Preparing the soil for tomato princes

For a rich harvest, we need, first of all, to find a good place for our pets. Tomato plants love indirect sun and will thrive in sunny but sheltered areas.

• The best predecessors of tomatoes are carrots, cucumbers and onions. And if you plant your favorites next to strawberries, both cultures will benefit from this. The yield of tomatoes and fragrant berries will increase several times, and the fruits will become larger.

But the places where potatoes, eggplants and peppers grew should be avoided by tomatoes. Pathogens of various diseases can accumulate in these areas.

Our country is huge. And the quality of the soil is different in all regions (even in different fields). And tomato princes are very demanding and whimsical to the land. Therefore, we need to find out the quality of the soil in our garden.

◊ Check the acidity. A pH test can be purchased from any garden department. The lower the indicator, the higher the acidity. Neutral ground has a score of 7.0.

• Tomatoes need soil with acidity values ​​between 6.0 and 7.0.

In the case of a lower indicator, we add lime to the soil (0.5-0.8 kg per square meter), if the level is higher, sulfur in the same amount.

◊ We estimate the amount of nutrients. Analysis for the presence of trace elements can be ordered and carried out in special laboratories. This is very useful information for gardeners.

It is necessary in order for the cultivation of tomatoes in the open field to take place without losses and to please with a rich harvest.

Nitrogen	Potassium	Phosphorus
Has an effect on the health of tomato leaves. With a lack of it, the tomato will have yellowed, sluggish leaves.	This substance gives tomatoes strength and health. It increases the immunity and resistance of plants to diseases. With a lack of potassium, tomatoes do not grow well and look stunted.	Helps strengthen the root system and regulates seed formation. With its lack, tomatoes give sick, unripe fruits.
If there is a nitrogen deficiency, add fishmeal, compost or inorganic substances such as calcium nitrate, ammonium sulfate or sodium nitrate to the soil.	To compensate for the lack of potassium, fill the soil with sand, granite dust or wood ash (bucket per square meter).	Add superphosphates, compost, and bone meal to the soil to raise phosphorus levels.

♦ Compost - ideal for soil preparation. It also attracts many earthworms, which do an excellent job of loosening the soil and, in turn, attract and create favorable conditions for the parthenogenesis of beneficial bacteria.

Prepare the land for growing tomatoes in the open field you need to start in the autumn after thorough cleaning of all previous plant residues.We dig the area selected for plants to a depth of 30 cm.

• Autumn top dressing. To a depth of 20-25 cm, we apply organic (bird droppings, humus, peat or compost 5 kg per sq. M) or mineral fertilizers (potassium salt 20-25 g, superphosphate 40-50 g per sq. M.).
• Spring top dressing. To a depth of 15-20 cm, we introduce a mixture of 1 kg of poultry manure, 1.5 kg of wood ash and 20-25 g of ammonium sulfate per sq. m. Or mineral dressing (superphosphate 55 g, ammonium nitrate 20 g and potassium chloride 15 g per sq. m).

For a successful growing tomatoes the earth must be thoroughly dug up 2-3 times (preferably with a pitchfork) and harrowed. Tomato plants and humus will like it.

But it is better to refuse manure (tomatoes, having tasted manure fertilizers, begin to actively grow their tops, while the growth of fruits fades away).

• If the soil does not warm up enough, you can cover the area with black film or plastic. The black color perfectly attracts the light of the sun and absorbs it, warming up the soil underneath.

On the prepared site, 5-6 days before planting, we form ridges (width 100-120 cm, height 15-20 cm) in the north-south direction. This will help to achieve uniform illumination of the seedlings.

Maintain a distance between the ridges of about 70 cm (for all varieties).

Growing tomatoes in the open field

As soon as the spring frost comes to an end (usually it is the end of May - the beginning of June), we will plant young tomatoes in the open ground.

It is ideal to carry out this procedure on a cloudy, gloomy day. If it's sunny outside, wait for the evening.

Plant young shoots in two rows with a distance between them for classic planting:

• For low-growing boles and determinant species (row spacing 40-50 cm, between plants 30-35 cm).
• For medium-sized ones (row spacing 50-60 cm, between tomatoes 40-45 cm).

Square-nesting fit

This method will greatly facilitate the care of our tomatoes (it will become easier to loosen them), and the plants themselves will create the most favorable living conditions: it will improve the absorption of nutrients and increase the illumination. As a result, we will achieve a good harvest. We plant it according to the following scheme:

• Standard and determinant varieties: 70x70 cm, 2-3 plants for one nest.
• Early ripening species with a spreading bush: 70x70 cm, a couple of plants in one hole.
• Mid and late ripening: 70x70 cm, 1 bush in one nest. Or 90x90 cm (100x100 cm) - 2 plants each.

Ribbon-nest landing

This method of growing tomatoes in the open field makes it possible to place more bushes in one area. It becomes easier for them, crowded in one hole, to withstand bad weather conditions.

As it grows, weaker shoots thin out.

• With this method, irrigation furrows are cut every 140 cm. Plants are planted on both sides of the furrows (from a row of 60 cm, in the row itself after 70 cm, a couple of bushes in one nest).

Focus on the final growth of the bush. Ideally, for good development, one tomato should be given about 0.3 sq. m.

On average, for a plot of 100 sq. m. will need approximately 340-420 early tomatoes, and late and medium varieties 240-290 pieces.

Getting started disembarking

First of all, you need to moisten the soil well in pots or boxes with seedlings. This will help to easily remove them from the container and prevent accidental damage to the root system.

Prepared holes for growing tomatoes in the open field should have a depth of 10-15 cm.

We water them (a bucket of water for 8-10 holes) and apply mineral fertilizers mixed with humus (proportion 1x3).

1. Turn over the container with seedlings, grasp the trunk of the tomato with your middle and forefinger and remove it from the container.
2. Tear off the leaves of the seedlings, leaving only 2-3 leaves on top (this will stimulate root growth).
3. Place the plant with the root clod vertically in the hole and cover with compost. In this case, the stem of the tomato should remain open.Only the roots or a pot of soil are placed in the ground.
4. Press down firmly around the plant and cover the compost with dry soil.
5. After planting, we mulch the soil (for this, mowed, slightly withered grass, sawdust, straw or newspaper leaves are suitable). The mulch layer should be about 10 cm high.

When the planting of tomatoes in the ground is over, we will leave them alone for 8-10 days. During this period, the plants take root and master in a new place.

Do not water them yet. But you need to be prepared for freezing. To do this, immediately after planting, we will cover our young tomatoes with transparent film.

It will remain until the threat of frost disappears (for the middle zone, this usually happens by June 5-10). Holes with a diameter of 10 cm can be made in the film. This will reduce the risk of late blight infection.

After 10 days, we water the seedlings and at the same time plant a new one in the place of the deceased. The first hilling when growing tomatoes in the open field can be done two weeks after planting the seedlings.

In the future, we will huddle the plants as they grow.

How to tie tomatoes

Place pegs 50-80 cm high above the rows with planted tomatoes (depending on the growth of the bush).

The pegs are placed on the north side, retreating from the stem about 10 cm. We will tie each bush to them with a washcloth or twine.

Plants begin to tie up when they have 4-5 true leaves. In total, 3-4 garters are produced during the growth period of a tomato.

Plants are tied up only under a brush with fruits. This allows them to be well lit and receive more heat and sunshine, which speeds up and increases yields.

The fruits, not in contact with the ground, are less susceptible to pest attacks and are better protected from diseases.

Tapestry method

For medium-sized plants, large-fruited and richly fruiting, it is best to use trellises, not garters.

This method of growing tomatoes in the open field makes it easier to care for the plant, harvest, and also lengthen the fruiting period of tomatoes. Plants are less likely to develop fungal infections. This method allows you to more efficiently use a plot of the garden (especially when it is small in size).

To do this, install columns about 1.2-1.5 m high in the rows (the more often the columns are driven in, the stronger the structure will be).

Drive carnations onto the posts every 20-25 cm. Attach horizontal slats to them with twine or wire.

When the tomato seedlings start to grow (this will happen two weeks after planting), gently tie the brush of the plant to the slats with a soft twine or cord. Continue tying them as they grow, every 15-20 cm.

• This method is ideal for growing tall tomatoes in greenhouses (we will tell you more about caring for greenhouse giants in another article).

With the trellis method, further care for the plants will be very simple: timely tying of fruiting shoots and their stepchildren to the slats.

Care when growing tomatoes in the open field

Operation	How often to do	Tips
Grassing tomatoes (or shaping)	It is necessary to remove side shoots constantly, starting from an early age of the plant. By the time the fruit ripens, there should be no stepsons.	They must be removed before the shoots reach 3-5 cm in length. It is best to do this in the morning. In the southern, sunny regions, you can not completely remove the stepsons, just do not tie them up. But in the north, this operation is required (leave only 2-3 stems for each bush). In extreme heat, this procedure cannot be carried out.
Top dressing tomato	Once every 10 days. The first time we feed tomatoes two weeks after planting.	The first feeding with a solution of mullein (1x10) or chicken manure (1x20). We make repeated dressings with mineral fertilizers (nitrofoska 60g + water 10l). Quantity: before flowering, 1 liter for each bush, after flowering for 2-5 liters.
Watering tomatoes	Abundant, but rare watering.	Water the tomatoes once a week in the spring and early summer. In warm summer, limit yourself to one watering every 2-3 days. Water the root bushes in the evening.
Spraying	We spray every week, alternating the compositions of the liquid. First spraying immediately after planting in open ground (Bordeaux liquid).	Alternate between Bordeaux liquid and homemade onion tincture.

How to pinch tomatoes. When removing the stepsons, do not pull them out, but gently break them out, grabbing them with your index and thumb. Pull gently to the side and break off.

If they have grown too large, cut with a sharp knife or razor. First of all, get rid of the stepchildren growing under the brushes (otherwise the tomato can shed the ovary).

For the best yield when growing tomatoes outdoors, pinch the tops of all the shoots with fruits at the end of summer.

Also remove excess flower brushes where the fruit has failed to form.

Preparation of Bordeaux liquid. In water, extinguish quicklime (100 g) and add water (about 5 liters). In another container, dissolve copper sulfate (100 g) in a small amount of hot water and add 5 liters of water.

Then pour the vitriol solution into the slaked lime. The correct liquid will have a sky blue tint.

Just in case, measure the alkaline reaction with an indicator (Bordeaux liquid should be neutral or slightly alkaline).

• Any iron objects can be used to check. If the metal is covered with a layer of copper, you made a too acidic solution. More lime needs to be added. But do not overdo it, otherwise the liquid will lose its beneficial qualities.

Preparation of onion tincture. Grind onion and garlic (100 g each) with a meat grinder. Transfer the mixture to a 3-liter glass container and fill it ¾ with water. We close and insist for 3 days.

Shake it periodically. At the same time, pour bird droppings (200 g) in a plastic bucket with water and set to infuse. Both mixtures are mixed and filtered before use.

Feeding Tips

For top dressing when growing tomatoes in the open field, it is useful to use fermented nettle and ash.

Also, feed the plants with microelements a couple of times in the fruiting season (crush 5 tablets and stir them in ½ l of water, then add another 10 l of water). Consumption of 1 liter for each bush.

Banana fertilizer. We are preparing a natural, very healthy top dressing, enriched with calcium and phosphorus. This remedy is made from banana peels.

1. Cover the oven tray with food foil. Put the banana peel on top of the skin with the outside side down (so that it does not stick). Place the tray in the oven.
2. After roasting and cooling it, grind the peel into flour and place it in an airtight bag.

Sprinkle banana flour on the soil near the plant roots once every two weeks.

To get an excellent harvest of tomatoes, you need to do more than just water and feed them correctly. They need pollination.

Pollination of tomatoes

Tomato is a self-pollinating plant. When growing tomatoes outdoors, these plants create a lot of high-quality pollen, which is also enough for neighboring flowers.

To help with pollination, attract insect helpers (bees, bumblebees).

To do this, plant bright annual melliferous plants between the tomatoes: rapeseed, coriander, basil and mustard. By the way, these crops also improve the taste of the fruits themselves.

But it is not always possible for a tomato to self-pollinate. There can be many reasons:

• Lowering the temperature at night (below + 13 ° C). Under such conditions, the deformation of the anther occurs.
• The daytime temperature is too high (above + 30-35 ° С). In the heat, the flowers fall off, and the pollen grains die.
• Features of the structure of the pistil of some large-fruited varieties (it protrudes outward and the pollen does not fall on the stamens). Or the pestle is too wide.

In such cases, we need to help our tomatoes to pollinate. You can tilt down the buds with a protruding pistil and shake the flower slightly.Or it is easy to knock on a trellis or a flowering brush.

• The best time for artificial pollination is 10-14 hours, at a temperature of + 22-27 ° C. The ideal air humidity is not more than 70%. Repeat the pollination procedure after 4 days.

Immediately after pollination, water the tomatoes or spray over the flower (so that the pollen sticks to the pistil). The last flowers to appear are usually empty and underdeveloped. It is better to remove them immediately.

Secrets of growing tomatoes. An amazing tomato has one peculiarity - it is completely unpretentious.

And it can bear fruit even if your care is limited only to watering and weeding.

But the tomato is very responsive. And the more carefully you take care of the plants, the more harvest they will give you.

But don't overdo it in your quest to please him. The golden rule for growing tomatoes is that everything is good in moderation!

Caring for tomatoes should be within reasonable, competent limits!

Now, my dear friends, you know how to grow our precious tomatoes outdoors. Next, we have to learn about growing tomatoes in a greenhouse and about the possible difficulties (diseases and pests) when growing them.

I also suggest watching a short video with some useful tips for growing tomatoes.

See you soon, dear friends!

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Tags: Actually, tomatoes