The timing of planting vegetables in open ground in Ukraine

Let's talk about vegetables of Ukraine and how to grow them. On the territory of Ukraine, you can sow many garden crops before winter, early spring and summer and get a good harvest.

In early spring, for example, without waiting for the frost to stop, it is necessary to sow carrots, radishes, lettuce, sorrel, parsley, dill, spinach.

Sowing vegetable seeds

Front sowing vegetable seeds the soil must be dug up, hardened. To make the rows straight, a cord is pulled from the pegs on both sides of the designated area, a groove is drawn with a pointed stick. It is advisable to moisturize the area well. The seeds are scattered to the bottom of the furrow and covered with a light rake. If the soil turned out to be lumpy, it is better to pour a layer of 0.5-1 cm of loose soil without lumps on the seed beds, and then carefully close the furrows with a rake. And it will be quite good if an elephant of humus 1-2 cm thick is poured onto the rows on top to protect the soil from drying out.

In the first decade of April, peas, beans, beets are sown, early cabbage seedlings are planted, tomato seeds are planted in open ground. In the third decade of April or in the first ten days of May, after the danger of frost has passed, cucumbers, beans, watermelons, melons, pumpkins are sown, seedlings of tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers are planted.

In the first half of June, it is quite possible to sow cucumbers, as well as carrots, beets, dill, radishes, vegetable peas, spinach. In the case of a long warm autumn, later sowing dates work well. In mid-August, the term for sowing cabbage seeds in winter crops. To do this, use the varieties Derbentskaya, Apsheronskaya or Bull's Heart.

In autumn, before winter, you can sow parsley, dill, spinach, carrots, plant garlic.

Sowing dates depend on the onset of frost. It is best to sow these crops 5-7 days before the soil freezes so that the seeds do not have time to germinate in the fall. The seeding rate should be increased by 15-20%, sprinkle with humus over the rows.

Seeding depth

Special attention should be paid to seeding depth... Novice gardeners, as a rule, cover the seeds deeply, and they die, or the seedlings are sparse. The smallest of them - sorrel, lettuce - should not be covered with soil more than 0.5-1 cm, medium-small - onions, tomatoes, cabbage - 2-3 cm, medium-sized - beets, cucumbers, spinach - 3-4, large - pumpkin, corn, peas , beans - 4-5cm.

Sowing and planting patterns

In vegetable growing, various seeding and planting schemes... At ordinary placement tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and other large plants grow in one row. In recent years, they began to be placed in specialized farms. ribbons in two rows... The distance between the rows is from 40 to 50cm, between the belts is from 90 to 120cm. The most suitable for individual gardens is broadband seeding... The width of the strip is from 6 to 8cm.

So you can place carrots, onions on turnips and sets, lettuce, spinach, dill, parsley. They can also be sown with seven-line, ten-line ribbons up to 1-1.2 m wide, leaving a path between them 0.5 m wide. In this case, the row spacing should be reduced to 8cm. For planting seedlings on a cord furrows are made with a hoe or a shovel. Wells and grooves are watered abundantly with water. Their own seedlings with a lump of earth are carefully transferred to the planting site, lowered to the bottom, squeezed with soil and the hole or furrow is corrected again. Purchased immediately dipped in a mixture of clay and water and then planted.

Seedlings must be deepened into the ground to the lower leaves, so that the root system goes into the soil to a depth of 10-12 cm. You cannot plant deeper. There, the soil warms up poorly and is less active. For this reason, overgrown tomato seedlings are recommended to be placed in a furrow or hole obliquely, but not deeper than 12 cm. It is better to transplant into open ground in cloudy weather, and if in sunny weather, then in the evening. After transplanting, watering is required.

Crop care measures

To obtain high and sustainable yields, it is necessary to perform a large complex crop care activities... This is the fight against weeds, and loosening of row spacings, and mulching, and hilling, and thinning. Care activities also include feeding, pinching and pinching, pest and disease control, watering. The number and timing of manual weeding depends on the degree of weediness in the gardens; they are carried out up to 5-6 times per summer. At the same time, the aisles are also loosened. In a row, crops are flown by hand, without using a hoe.

Hand weeding

Manual weeding the soil crust is also destroyed. In order to prevent the seeding of weeds, it is necessary to destroy it on the sides of nearby roads, along the borders of the dacha. Tillage depth the aisles should be different. The beds with freshly risen beets cannot be loosened deeper than 4-5 cm. When it grows up, the loosening depth can be increased up to 12cm. On seedling plantations, loosening for the first time is carried out to a depth of 9-10 cm, the next - 12-15 cm.

Mulching

At mulching the soil is covered with a 2-3-centimeter layer of humus, sawdust, leaf or black special film. In this case, weeds are suppressed, the structure of the soil is preserved, moisture is retained in it. If there are not enough materials, only the rows are covered, and not the entire area.

Hilling

Hilling promotes the formation of additional roots and creates greater plant resistance. This technique is done after watering or rain. However, using dry soil for this is useless. Potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes are hilled up to three times, the height of hilling is 12-15 cm.

Thinning

Thinning should be carried out immediately after germination. The fact is that to insure against unfavorable weather conditions, damage to the soil of seeds, they have to be sown 2-3 times more than required. Carrots, black onions, parsley, radishes, etc. are sown with especially increased rates. Seedlings are thinned out as soon as they appear. Of course, the best specimens are left, the weak ones are destroyed. In the second thinning of carrots, onions and other crops, the plucked-out plants are used as commercial products.

Watering

Watering in the south - this is the most important event. The most demanding for water are all types of cabbage, cucumbers, lettuce and radishes, plants with a weak root system - onions and garlic, then carrots, peppers, potatoes, beets.

Less moisture-loving plants with a powerful root system, adapted against moisture evaporation from foliage. These include seedless eggplants, watermelons, melons. And nevertheless, in the absence of a minimum of moisture, they must be watered. For this, you can use any water: from irrigation canals, water pipes, from rivers, lakes, ponds, rain accumulated in pools and barrels, from artesian wells. But remember: the water should not be too cold.

If the water cannot be heated, then it is better to pass it along the furrows at night. Sprinkling watering is permissible during the day, but with reduced rainfall. It is also necessary to roughly know the chemical composition of water. To do this, a sample is taken for chemical analysis in a laboratory or they use the old method: if frogs live in this water, it is suitable for irrigation.

The need for vegetable crops in moisture

The need for vegetables and potatoes in moisture the periods of their lives are different. Its largest volume is used during the formation of heads of cabbage, fruits, tubers, root crops. During this period, you should not give a lot of water, otherwise the flowers and ovary may fall off the tomatoes, the cabbage will not have a normal head of cabbage. This need sharply decreases during flowering and ripening of seeds. It is especially necessary to dwell on the choice of time of day for watering.

Most reference books recommend this technique to be carried out in the evening or early in the morning, citing the presence of sunburns when watering in the daytime. In the long-term experiments carried out by the author of these lines on the modes of irrigation of vegetable crops, it was found that the negative effect of sunlight on the leaves of vegetable crops during the daytime sprinkling was not found, but it was noticed that the water consumption on sunny days is somewhat higher, this is due to increased evaporation. With regard to water consumption and inter-irrigation periods, a lot depends on the physical properties of the soil and weather conditions.

For example, on sandy loam soils, water should be watered after 2 days with 15-20 liters of water per 1 m2, on loamy soils - after 3-4 days for 20-30 liters. Immediately after the soil has absorbed moisture, the holes and grooves should be covered with earth. The next day, they need to be rolled or loosened.

Fertilizing vegetables

In the complex of techniques for the care of crops, an important place belongs feeding vegetables... The first is recommended to be done 10-15 days after germination, at a dose of 10-12 g. ammonium nitrate, 7-10-superphosphate and 4-5g. potassium per 1 m2, the second - at the beginning of the formation of productive organs, 5-6g. ammonium nitrate and the same amount of superphosphate and potassium salt per 1 m2. They can be sown over the surface of the site so that fertilizers do not fall on the leaves.

Then the fat should be closed up with a little watering. It is more difficult to organize feeding with organic fertilizers - bird droppings, mullein, slurry. First, they are put in a container, it can be in barrels or boxes with a film covered, poured with water and left for several days before fermentation. Then this mixture is diluted in a ratio of 1: 6-8 and applied at the rate of 1-2 liters per 1 m2.

Good to spend and extra feeding... The following composition is recommended: for tomatoes - 80g. ammonium nitrate, 150 - superphosphate and 70g. potassium; for cabbage - 150g. ammonium nitrate; for cucumbers - 60g. superphosphate, 30g. potassium and 1.3 g. boric acid per 10 liters of water and per 100m2 crops. Tomatoes are fed during the formation of buds and at the beginning of the formation of fruits, cucumbers - before flowering and during the formation of greens, cabbage - 2 weeks after planting in open ground and then after 8-10 days.

Experienced vegetable growers carry out, for example, pinching on tomatoes, while removing excess shoots. With a long flowering of this culture, flower shoots are also pinched in the fall. These surgical techniques make it possible to accelerate the formation and ripening of fruits, to avoid dangerous frosts.

This article will focus on the timing of planting various garden crops in the open field. The question "when to plant what" is of interest to many people. Planting dates directly depend on weather conditions - a long spring or not, frosts are possible or not, the sun is shining and warming the soil or not, etc.

Spring is a hot time for gardeners. You need to dig up your summer cottage arable land, make beds, throw seeds into fertile soil. What can be planted in early spring?

In March, you can sow:

1. Spring garlic.

2. Onion seeds, onions per feather.

3. Parsnip.

4.Every little thing - parsley, leaf celery, sorrel, lettuce, radish (though it will "sit" in the ground for a long time). In early spring, before planting, you should not soak the seeds, otherwise swollen or even germinated seeds will die in insufficiently heated ground.

5. Early carrots for food or for sale.

End of March - beginning of April

When the daytime temperature steadily rises to + 10 degrees, and, accordingly, the soil temperature will also be plus, then you can safely plant peas, radishes, watercress, various types of lettuce. Potatoes are also being planted.

April

Potatoes, onions, spinach, cilantro (coriander), dill are planted en masse.

At the end of April, in warm weather, they begin to plant seedlings of early cabbage (it can withstand frost). At your own peril and risk, you can plant zucchini seeds. There are no seedlings yet, but in case of frost they will have to cover.

Also, seeds can be planted with Brussels sprouts, savoy cabbage, broccoli. Tomatoes can be planted with seeds in open ground. As practice shows, ground tomatoes will grow very strong, resistant to various diseases, and sometimes overtake tomatoes planted by seedlings in development. We plant Jerusalem artichoke with tubers.

You can continue to plant what you sowed earlier to get an extended period of fruiting. These are peas, various salads, radishes, spinach. In warm weather conditions, seeds can be soaked, including tomato and pepper seeds, for faster emergence.

May

We begin to plant heat-loving crops. The beginning of May - we sow corn, watermelons, pumpkins, melons. The first cucumbers are planted with seeds in open ground according to folk tradition right after Radonitsa. It is believed that they will not freeze anymore. This year it is April 29th. At this time, it is recommended to plant varieties of cucumbers that are resistant to low temperatures. We sow common beans and asparagus beans (popularly called "tursha")

Where to begin?

Carrot for early consumption they are planted in late autumn - before winter, or in early spring - in April. And it is better to plant carrots intended for storage at the very end of May or early June, and even periods of up to June 20-25 are permissible. With this sowing, it is less damaged by the carrot fly, which is especially active in May during the lilac flowering period. There is one more old, but already forgotten "carrot" secret. Carrot seeds germinate better when the principle "from below - firmly, from above softly" is observed. This means that they should lie on solid soil, sprinkled with loose and light on top. This can be done as follows. Rows are marked on the prepared bed, but not in the usual way. They are trampled underfoot. The result is wide, compacted furrows. After good moistening, seeds are planted in them across the entire width, preferably as rarely as possible. Sprinkle on top with loose dry soil with a layer of no more than 2 cm and cover the bed with a film to retain moisture until shoots appear. This technique eliminates the need for thinning, which only attracts the carrot fly. In the future, the bed must be watered periodically, preventing the soil from drying out. After all, carrots are very demanding on soil moisture, especially during the period of seed germination. The same sowing method is also suitable for beets. Before sowing, it is advisable to soak its seeds for about half a day, which will accelerate their further germination. The soil on the garden bed should always be moist before germination. This is especially important when sowing with dry seeds, otherwise they will lose germination from a lack of moisture.

There are some little tricks and relatively potatoes. Even if the weather is dry, you need to start watering it only after the sprouts appear from the soil. Before that, the tubers are not yet able to absorb all the moisture and can rot. After rains or watering, the soil around the potato seedlings must be loosened to provide air access to the roots. Otherwise, the so-called lentils (white dots) form on the tubers, through which various infections penetrate. And in order for the potato tubers to fill up faster, it is necessary to remove the flowers in the budding phase.Then the plant will direct all its forces not to flowering, but to tuberization.

Early cabbage should be planted in open ground in late April - early May, no later than the 10th. These terms are suitable for the climatic conditions of the middle lane. In this case, the seedlings should have at least 5-6 strong leaves, because 2-3 leaves will inevitably die off during survival. It is better to plant it in rows with row spacing of 50-60 cm and 30 cm between individual plants. With such a planting, it will be easier in the future to destroy weeds by harrowing with a rake and to huddle overgrown plants. And here late cabbage planted after May 20 and before the first decade of June.

Onion does not need to be planted on a flat surface. It turns out that even our great-grandfathers knew that he grows better, planted in grooves. This is due to the fact that they are warmed up by the sun more and are more breathable. And these are exactly the conditions that bulbous plants are very fond of. First, shallow grooves are made in the garden at a distance of about 40 cm, watered with water with potassium permanganate and sprinkled with ash. Then the bulbs are placed in them, deepening them by one third, and the shaft is raked from both sides.

For planting pumpkin-cucumber vegetation does not have to cultivate huge plantations. It is possible in any place, even with not very fertile soil, to dig holes 50-60 cm deep and wide, fill them with earth mixed with humus in equal proportions, and sow a couple of seeds. In the future, just do not forget about watering and feeding.

Fertilizing and watering vegetables

How much irrigation water should you give and how often should you water? If vegetables are grown on completely dry soil and in drought, then you would have to give water about twice as much as the plant should take from the soil, since this water will partially evaporate, drain from the surface, pass into the deep layers of the soil and will not be used plant.

The amount of spring water in the root layer depends on its depth and the nature of the soil. Clay and loamy humus-rich soils store 1.5 times more water than humus-poor sandy and sandy loam soils. When fully saturated with water, clay soils retain, if there is no air in them, 50 percent of the water from the total soil volume, and sandy soils - 30 percent. For normal plant growth and root development, it is necessary that approximately 40 percent of the gaps between soil particles be filled with air, which is necessary for root respiration. The moisture reserve in the soil with favorable moisture is about 30 percent of the volume of loamy humus soil and about 20 percent of sandy soil. The depth of the root layer in an individual garden reaches 40 centimeters. Each square meter at a depth of 40 centimeters will have a soil volume of 0.4 cubic meters, or 400 liters. When fully saturated, loamy-humus soil contains 200 liters of water, and when moisture is favorable for growth (60 percent of full saturation), 120 liters. Accordingly, poor sandy soil will hold 135 liters at full saturation and about 80 liters when moisture is favorable for plant growth. Therefore, the soil has to be watered, since the precipitation is unevenly distributed. There is often an excess of water in early spring, and in June and especially in July there is a sharp shortage. In addition, one must take into account that precipitation is unevenly distributed. Sometimes they fall out in the form of rainstorms, in which case most of them flow down from the soil surface. Practice has shown that on sandy and sandy loam soils it is necessary to give 10 liters of water in 1-3 days for each square meter, and for loamy humus - 20 liters in five days. The need for watering can be determined by the state of moisture in the soil and plants.

Watering is carried out with watering cans or furrow irrigation. In years when the reserves of spring moisture in the soil at the dacha are insignificant and when precipitation is far from satisfying the needs of the plant, it is necessary to do watering either by filling in deep ridges or along furrows.In the latter case, sowing or planting rows with plants are placed 10 centimeters above the level of the irrigation water. Of course, there must be a good water source for this purpose. Watering only benefits the plants if it provides water to the roots. Insufficient watering, in which only the topsoil of 1 - 5 centimeters is wetted, not only does not benefit, but harms plants, contributes to the formation of a crust and drying out of the soil. Irrigation water should pass to the depth of the active root layer, that is, at least 15 - 20 centimeters. After each watering, as soon as the soil dries slightly, it is necessary to loosen the surface to a depth of 6 - 8 cm. In addition, watering should be accompanied by fertilization or be carried out after it.

Let these simple tips help you optimize your planting process and get a good harvest in the coming season!

Cucumbers sown in the ground in early May. Cucumber seeds can be heated in a thermos with water at a temperature of 45 degrees for 10-12 hours. They will swell and "wake up". They are planted on seedlings in early April, for early planting of plants under shelter.

Tomatoes - sown in open ground in the first decade of April, providing shelter from frost. For planting seedlings, seeds are sown in boxes at the end of February, March.

Low-growing tomatoes - seeds for open ground under shelter in 40-50 days.

Tall tomatoes (55 or more days) in open ground with seeds in a greenhouse March, April.

Pepper - seeds are sown in boxes at the end of February - beginning of March, seedlings in open ground in May, under film shelters, seedlings in April.

Eggplant - sown in boxes late February - early March, in mid-May with seedlings.

Beetroot - sown in mid-May and June, no later than the 20th (for winter consumption), preferably with sprouted seeds.

Early cabbage - with seeds in boxes sown in February, planted in the ground early under shelters.

Late cabbage - On June 15-20, plant seedlings in the ground. If sown with seeds in the holes, then in the first decade of May.

Red cabbage late May - early June.

Cauliflower and other types of cabbage - sown with seeds for seedlings in March, early April with seeds directly into the ground

Sprouted zucchini seeds - to a depth of 3-5 cm at the beginning of May, covering from frost.

Early carrots - in the February-March windows.

Carrot - planted in two steps: May and June (preferably with sprouted seeds.)

Peas - as early as possible (March, April)

Beans - in May, when the threat of frost has passed.

Onion - set March, April outdoors (weather permitting).

Krasnolimansky Organic Farming Club: st. Ivana Leiko, 2, 2nd floor, south side; phone: (066) 979-94-90.

to your site.

At the summer cottage, a wedge is necessarily allocated for garden crops, the main part of which is vegetable. Each culture is distinguished by its biological characteristics, formed in the climate of the area of ​​origin. The main condition for the successful cultivation of vegetable crops in an environment unusual for them is the sowing period associated with the temperature of the soil and air, the brightness of lighting and the duration of daylight hours. For some crops, this length of daylight hours does not affect the germination and development of plants. Such crops can be sown almost during the entire warm season. Others react quite painfully to changes in lighting. Breeders, when developing new varieties, always accustom them to the climatic conditions of a particular area and, accordingly, recommend approximate sowing dates, which must be observed.

The article proposes to get acquainted with the approximate timing of sowing the seeds of the main vegetable crops in open ground for regions with different climatic conditions.

Spring sowing of vegetables in open ground

Basic principles and conditions of sowing in open ground

Relation to temperature

The indicator of the beginning of sowing is the temperature of the soil at the depth of occurrence of the bulk of the roots of a particular culture. Its change and the rate of warming up are influenced by snow cover, groundwater, soil type, and its moisture content. It is the heating of the soil in the root-inhabited layer that makes it possible to obtain an early harvest. If you sow seeds in cold soil, then even cold-resistant crops can sprout, but they will not be able to form a crop. The roots in cold soil cannot function normally to ensure the conditions for the development of the aboveground mass. To preserve sowing, heat-loving crops are sown only when constant warm weather sets in without recurrent spring frosts. When they are threatened, the seedlings are covered with any covering material (spunbond, lutrasil), which is removed the next morning with the onset of warm weather. Sun warming of the covered bed can adversely affect seedlings and young seedlings.

Naturally, the sowing dates for the regions may not coincide in the numerical data of the spring-summer months. Therefore, the main reference point for the start of sowing in open ground in regions with a short warm period and early onset of cold weather will be soil temperature, light intensity and the establishment of a frost-free period. In these regions, vegetables of southern origin are mainly grown through seedlings, the planting dates of which are presented in the article "Sowing time for seedlings of vegetable crops for seedlings for different regions."

A stable, recommended soil temperature for several days is a signal to start sowing. In order not to sow vegetables in cold soil, they use different methods to determine its temperature in the root layer.

1. With thermometers... Savinov TM-5 elbow thermometers, exhaust thermometers and a probe thermometer.

It is more convenient for beginner gardeners to determine the temperature of the soil layer by layer with thermometers. Remember that they are used only during the warm period, and when the temperature drops at a depth of 5 cm to 0 ° C, they are dug out and removed into the room. The measurement procedure is specified in the recommendations.

2. By plants (the state of the crown of trees, the aboveground mass of shrubs, the onset of flowering of perennial wild-growing grasses).

Take note:

• Black currant buds have blossomed, vegetables and flower crops can be sown.
• The buds of the warty birch have developed, which means that the soil at a depth of 5 cm has warmed up well, it is time for sowing early greens, planting early potatoes. The leaves unfolded a little - it's time to sow radishes, carrots, and other root crops. Birch is preparing for flowering - the soil has warmed up to 10 cm depth. It's time to sow tomatoes in open ground.
• Dandelions bloom when the temperature in a 10 cm layer of soil warms up to + 6 ... + 8 ° С, and in a layer of 10-40 cm - only up to + 3 ° С.
• Bird cherry blossoms - it's time to plant potatoes.

3. By the physical state of the soil... This method is often used by experienced gardeners. A handful of earth is squeezed into a ball. If a liquid appears on the surface of the lump, it is too early to sow, and the lump is scattered, the early sows. Fell down, but scattered into lumps - you can start planting early cabbage and potatoes, salads, radishes.

Sowing vegetable seeds in early spring in open ground

Attitude to lighting

In the complex of the main conditions, the next is light. It is regulated by a much wider list of requirements: sowing time, air temperature, standing density, timely thinning, destruction of tall weeds that shade plants.

Each type of plant normally grows and develops in natural conditions at a certain length of daylight hours.

1. Neutral. The cultures of this group practically do not react to the amount and period of received solar energy.These include peas, beans, some varieties of tomatoes and cucumbers, as well as watermelons, asparagus, and others. The list is constantly updated by breeders who "instill" the ability to not react to the length of daylight in new varieties and hybrids.

2. Short-day. In a shortened day (10-14 hours), plants bloom faster and proceed to fruiting. These are certain varieties and hybrids of tomatoes, beans, cucumbers. This group also includes other pumpkin (zucchini, pumpkin, squash), corn, sweet and bitter peppers, eggplants. The green group quickly turns to flowering (flowering) (dill, parsley, lettuce, spinach, sorrel, onions on a green feather).

3. Long-day. Plants of this group, with sufficient duration of illumination (more than 14 hours), move to the flowering and fruiting phase. This group of plants includes all types of cabbages, radishes, rutabagas, radishes, turnips of northern varieties, parsnips, carrots, vegetable peas, and beets. If long-day plants are created for short-day conditions, using early seeding or darkening, their development will be inhibited. They will not be able to move to the flowering and fruiting phases. Stop at the formation of lush rosettes of greenery (vegetative organs).

Seedlings of vegetables sown in spring in open ground

Dates of sowing vegetable crops in open ground

Early spring crops (mid-March - mid-April)

This group of plants is made up of cultures with low and medium demand for light. Sowing early spring greens and vegetables can be done in stages, after 10-12-15 days, which will prolong the receipt of fresh produce.

The list of crops for sowing at a soil temperature of 7-10 cm layer within the range of + 3 ... + 5 ° С.

• Green (spicy) - dill, parsley, coriander, fennel, parsnip, mustard, celery, asparagus, lemon balm and others.
• Leafy vegetables and with above-ground yield formation - all types of salads, horseradish, spinach, rhubarb, peas, early cauliflower, broccoli, early ripe white cabbage.
• Bulbous and root vegetables - onion sets and black onions for feathers and onions, early carrots, radishes, radishes, turnips, rutabagas.

Mid-spring crops (mid-April - second decade of May)

If the spring is cold and wet, the sowing is postponed to a later date (5-8 days). Like cold-resistant crops, these crops can also be sown in stages, after 10-12-15 days, which will prolong the receipt of fresh produce.

When the soil warms up in the root layer from + 5 ° C, you can continue sowing some crops that are low and medium-demanding to the conditions of sun supply.

The list of crops for sowing at a soil temperature of 8-15 cm layer within + 5 ... + 8 ° С.

• Green - leaf celery, petiole, root, chicory salad.
• Vegetable - all types of cabbage: medium white cabbage, red cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Savoy cabbage, kohlrabi and others. Potatoes are planted early, medium, leeks, spring garlic. Sow onion sets and beans, beans. Closer to May, sugar corn is sown, sunflower,
• Root crops: beets, medium carrots.

Late spring crops (last decade of May - mid-June)

Sowing vegetables in open ground is carried out in the third decade of May - June, with the onset of constant warm weather without recurrent spring frosts. For example, in the middle zone of Russia, Siberia, and the Urals, warm weather without frosts is established after June 10-15. The soil in the root layer warms up to + 12 ... + 15-17 ° С. That is, open ground crops of even early cold-tolerant vegetable crops are shifted to the pre-summer or early summer. In these regions, it is more expedient to use early varieties, necessarily zoned for the local climate, to use temporary shelters and growing vegetables in greenhouses in the autumn.

3 - List of heat-loving crops, which are sown at a soil temperature of 10-15 cm layer up to + 13 ... + 15-17 ° С

With the onset of a stable warm period, tomatoes, beans, melons (melons and watermelons), sunflowers, basil, marjoram, root crops (carrots, beets) are sown. Seedlings of nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants, sweet and bitter peppers) and pumpkin crops (cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin) are planted in open ground.

Thus, specialists have identified groups of plants that require a certain soil temperature, frost-free weather, the amount and duration of solar energy intake for germination and normal development.

Spring sowing of vegetable seeds in open ground

When choosing the timing of sowing vegetables on your site, it should be borne in mind that some short-day varieties need a factor of darkness, but only at the beginning of the growing season (at this time they are shaded). With age, they develop normally and form fruiting in long day conditions. If short-day plants are provided with a day length of more than 14 hours, then their development will slow down, and the vegetative mass will begin to develop vigorously. This property is used in green forcing to quickly obtain fresh greens and early vegetable products.

In cold regions, shifting the sowing of vegetable crops to an earlier date, it is necessary to use temporary shelters, prepare insulated beds.

The Far East has a special temperature regime. Vegetable growing is concentrated in the Amur Region, Primorsky and Khabarovsk Territories. A humid warm summer allows you to harvest fairly high yields of cold-resistant varieties of sweet peppers and melons bred specifically for this zone, as well as cabbage, carrots, which can be grown in open ground, sowing after June 15, that is, the crops will be pre-summer. Green products of gingerbread vegetables grown in the open field are obtained only with summer crops. In these regions, it is more expedient to use early varieties, necessarily zoned for the local climate, to use temporary shelters and growing vegetables in greenhouses in the autumn.

Dear Reader! The article provides approximate data for sowing in open ground. Regardless of the region of the country, the main criterion for sowing dates is soil temperature, the onset of a frost-free period, and the intensity of sunlight. If you have other guidelines and approaches that justify themselves, write in the comments. This material is very interesting and necessary for readers.

Prepared tall beds for spring sowing vegetable seeds

Table 1. Dates of sowing the main vegetable crops in open ground for the Southern region

Name of crops	Early spring sowing in open ground (March 15 - April 15)	Mid-spring crops in open ground (April 15 - May 20)	Late spring sowing in open ground (May 20 - June 15)
Dill, fennel, parsley, celery	1-25 March	–	June 5-15
Leaf salad	March 5 - April 15	April 15-May 10	–
Onions on a feather, onions on a turnip	March 10-30	from April 15	–
Cucumbers	–	April 10 - May 10	May 25 - June 15
Spring garlic	March 1-10	–	–
Potato	March 1 - April 10	from April 20 (medium ripening varieties)	–
Carrot	April 5-25;	April 15 - May 30	May 25 - June 10
Radish	March 15-30	–	–
Parsnip	April 5-10	April 20 - May 10	–
Peas	March 1-30	–	–
Sugar corn	–	April 20 - May 10	–
Beans	–	May 15-20	–
Beet	April 5-15	April 15-30	May 25 - June 10
Tomatoes	March 15-30	from April 15 (medium ripening varieties)	–
Eggplant, sweet and bitter peppers	–	April 15 - May 20	May 20-June 10
White cabbage	March 1-25 (early ripening varieties); March 10-20 (medium ripening varieties)	April 10 - May 20 (late ripening varieties)	–
Zucchini, squash	–	April 20 - May 10	–
Watermelons, melons	–	–	–

Table 2. Dates of sowing the main vegetable crops in open ground for the Central Black Earth Region

Name of crops	Early spring sowing in open ground (March 15 - April 15)	Mid-spring crops in open ground (April 15 - May 20)	Late spring sowing in open ground (May 20 - June 15)
Dill, fennel, parsley, celery	1-25 March	April 15 - May 20	May 20 - June 15
Leaf salad	March 5 - April 15	April 20-30	May 20-30
Onions on a feather, onions on a turnip	March 10-30	April 20 - May 20	May 20 - June 15
Cucumbers	–	April 20 - May 20	May 20 - June 15
Spring garlic	March 1-10	May 11-20	May 25 - June 5
Potato	March 1 - April 10	May 20-15	May 11-20
Carrot	March 15-30, April 5-25;	April 25 - May 10	May 20-30
Radish	April 5-10	April 20-28	–
Parsnip	March 1-30	April 10 - May 1	–
Peas	April 5-15	April 20-30	April 20 - May 25
Sugar corn	–	April 20-30	May 20 - June 1
Beans	–	–	May 10-30
Beet	March 15-30	April 20 - May 10	May 20-30
Tomatoes	From April 15 (under cover)	April 25 - May 5	May 15 - June 15
Eggplant, sweet and bitter peppers	From April 15 (under cover)	April 15-25 (under cover). Track the weather from 20 May	May 20 - June 15
White cabbage	March 1-25 (early ripening varieties); March 10-20 (medium ripening varieties)	May 20-30 (medium ripening varieties)	May 20-25 (medium and late ripening varieties)
Zucchini, squash	–	May 10-15	–
Watermelons, melons	–	May 10-15	–

Table 3. Dates of sowing the main vegetable crops in open ground for the Far Eastern region

Name of crops	Early spring sowing in open ground (March 15 - April 15)	Mid-spring crops in open ground (April 15 - May 20)	Late spring sowing in open ground (May 20 - June 15)
Dill, fennel, parsley, celery	March 20-30; April 10-20;	May 15-20	May 25 - June 10
Leaf salad	March 1-20; April 1-20;	May 15-20	May 25 - June 15 (under cover)
Onions on a feather, onions on a turnip	April 25 - 10	May 15-20	May 25 - June 15 (under cover)
Cucumbers	–	May 15-20 (under cover in a warm bed)	from June 15
Spring garlic	April 10-15	April 15-30
Potato	April 1-15 (under cover); if the spring is cold April 10-15	from April 15 to May 20 (under cover)	from May 20 (early ripening varieties)
Carrot	20-30 (early ripening varieties); April 10-20 (medium ripening varieties)	April 15 - May 20 (medium ripening varieties); you can continue sowing varieties of early ripening	from May 25 (varieties of late ripening); May 20-25 (sowing medium-ripening varieties)
Radish	March 20-30	from May 20 (under cover due to the lengthening of the day)	May 25 - June 15 (under cover)
Parsnip	March 20-30	–	–
Peas	March 15-April 15	from May 15 (under cover)	from June 15
Sugar corn	–	–	–
Beans	–	–	–
Beet	April 10-20	–	from May 25
Tomatoes	–	–	–
Eggplant, sweet and bitter peppers	–	–	–
White cabbage	–	May 15-20 (early ripening varieties for shelter)	from 20 May
Zucchini, squash	–	–	from June 15
Watermelons, melons	–	–	from June 15

Table 4. Dates of sowing the main vegetable crops in open ground for Siberia and the Urals

Name of crops	Early spring sowing in open ground (March 15 - April 15)	Mid-spring crops in open ground (April 15 - May 20)	Late spring sowing in open ground (May 20 - June 15)
Dill, fennel, parsley, celery	–	April 20 - May 20	May 25 - June 15
Leaf salad	–	April 20 - May 20 (under cover)	June 1-15 (under cover)
Onions on a feather, onions on a turnip	–	from 20 May	June 1-15 (under cover)
Cucumbers	–	May 20 - June 10 (in warm beds or under a temporary shelter)	May 25 - June 15
Spring garlic	–	May 12-15	–
Potato	–	April 28 - May 10	May 10 - June 1
Carrot	–	April 25 - May 20	May 20 - June 10
Radish	–	–	May 25 - June 15 (under cover)
Parsnip	–	–	–
Peas	–	–	–
Sugar corn	–	–	–
Beans	–	–	–
Beet	–	May 15-30	May 15-30
Tomatoes	–	April 15 - May 5 (under cover)	–
Eggplant, sweet and bitter peppers	–	–	–
White cabbage	–	May 10-15 (early ripening varieties for shelter)	From June 1 (under cover)
Zucchini, squash	–	–	–
Watermelons, melons	–	–	–

Table 5. Dates of sowing the main vegetable crops in open ground for the North-West region

Name of crops	Early spring sowing in open ground (March 15 - April 15)	Mid-spring crops in open ground (April 15 - May 20)	Late spring sowing in open ground (May 20 - June 15)
Dill, fennel, parsley, celery	–	May 15-25	May 25 - June 15
Leaf salad	–	May 15-20 (under cover)	June 1-15 (under cover)
Onions on a feather, onions on a turnip	–	May 15-20	June 1-15 (under cover)
Cucumbers	–	–	May 20 - June 10 (in warm beds or under a temporary shelter) June 15 - open ground
Spring garlic	–	–	–
Potato	–	April 28 - May 10 (early ripening varieties)	May 10 - June 1
Carrot	–	April 25 - May 20	May 20 - June 10
Radish	–	–	from May 25 (under cover)
Parsnip	–	–	–
Peas	–	–	–
Sugar corn	–	–	–
Beans	–	–	–
Beet	–	–	May 15-30
Tomatoes	–	April 15 - May 5 (under cover)	–
Eggplant, sweet and bitter peppers	–	–	–
White cabbage	–	May 10-15 (early ripening varieties for shelter)	From June 1 (under cover)
Zucchini, squash	–	–	–
Watermelons, melons	–	–	–

Table 6.Sowing dates of the main vegetable crops in open ground for the Central strip and the Moscow region

Name of crops	Early spring sowing in open ground (March 15 - April 15)	Mid-spring crops in open ground (April 15 - May 20)	Late spring sowing in open ground (May 20 - June 15)
Dill, fennel, parsley, celery	–	May 1-10; (celery May 10-20)	May 15-30
Leaf salad	–	May 5-10	May 20-30
Onions on a feather, onions on a turnip	–	May 10-20	May 11-20
Cucumbers	–	May 10-20 (under cover)	May 20 - June 15 (under cover)
Spring garlic	–	May 10-20	May 11-20
Potato	–	May 10-20	May 15-25
Carrot	–	May 5-10	May 20 - June 10
Radish	–	May 1-10	from May 25 (under cover)
Parsnip	–	May 5-10	–
Peas	–	May 5-10	from 10 June
Sugar corn	–	May 8-15	–
Beans	–	May 8-15	from 10 June
Beet	–	May 5-10	May 15-30
Tomatoes	–	April 15 - May 5 (under cover)	–
Eggplant, sweet and bitter peppers	–	–	–
White cabbage	–	May 1-10 (early ripening varieties for shelter)	–
Zucchini, squash	–	May 15-20 (under cover)	May 20-30 - June 5-10
Watermelons, melons	–	–	–