Spirea red planting and care in the open field

Among the ornamental shrubs, spirea occupies a special place. She is surprisingly unpretentious and easily forgives the gardener even the most unobtrusive care. A wide variety of shapes and types allows you to choose the plant to decorate the site that will best fit into the surrounding landscape. Planting and caring for a spirea is not difficult, even a novice gardener can handle it.

Spirea: types and varieties

The genus spirea belongs to the pink family and is quite numerous, it includes more than 70 species. The distribution area of ​​this deciduous shrub is wide. It can be found in the northern hemisphere in most climatic zones. Spirea rarely has single flowers, most often they are collected in a corymbose inflorescence, sometimes in a panicle. The color of flowers depends on the flowering time of the species. Plants blooming in spring have white flowers that bloom on last year's shoots, in species blooming in summer pink-crimson gamut prevails, flowers are located on annual growths.

The most common types.

• Medium spirea - an inhabitant of Siberian and Far Eastern forests, a tall shrub - above 2 m with white corymbose flowers that open in May and do not fall for 3 weeks, frost-resistant and drought-resistant, used in landscaping, suitable for northern regions.
• Spiraea birch-leaved - grows in Siberia, from 1 to 2 m in height, white flowers are collected in huge shields - up to 10 cm in diameter, blooms at the end of May and blooms throughout June.
• Spirea crenate - has been used in landscaping for 200 years, there are cultural hybrid varieties. In nature, it is a low, only up to 1 m shrub that blooms at the end of May. Quite large flowers are collected in corymbose inflorescences, due to the large number of long yellow stamens, it seems that they have a golden hue. This type of spirea is drought-resistant and frost-hardy, can be used to strengthen floating soils.
• Spirea St. John's wort is a shrub up to 1 m high, flowering - May-June, white flowers, is used to obtain new forms of the plant.
• Gray spirea - the result of crossing the previous species and whitish-gray spirea, has highly decorative varieties that bloom in spring. The most beloved variety of this species by flower growers is Spirea Grefsheim. The shoots of the tall bush bend towards the ground under the weight of flowers that completely cover the bush. The flowering is so abundant that the leaves are almost invisible.
• Spiraea is oak-leaved - blooms with umbrella-shaped inflorescences of white flowers with a large number of protruding stamens for 25 days, flowering occurs in May-June. The species is used in culture, it tolerates a haircut well.
• Spirea Nipponskaya came to us from Japan - this highly ornamental shrub 1-2 m high is decorated with yellowish-white inflorescence shields that appear in June. It does not differ in frost resistance; in severe winters, the tops of the shoots freeze slightly, but quickly recover. The most famous variety is Snowmound. A huge number of flowers on a bush up to 1.5 m high makes it very decorative at the time of flowering. The width of the bush is 2 times the height.
• No less decorative and spirea Wangutta is a hybrid species that blooms very profusely in June-July with white flowers collected in shields. The bush has an average height and can freeze slightly in frosty winters.
• Japanese spirea is quite thermophilic, but due to the low height of the bush - up to 1 m it winters without loss, covered with snow. The most interesting varieties are Little Princesses and Shirobana. Little princesses - a bush up to 80 cm high and up to 1.2 m wide blooms very profusely in June-July with pink flowers collected in medium-sized shields, grows slowly. Shirobana is a bush up to 0.8 m high and up to 0.6 m wide, blooms in mid-summer. Flowers in corymbose inflorescences have three colors - white, pink and crimson, if you cut off faded inflorescences, new ones will decorate the bush for another month.
• The adorable spirea stands out among other species by double flowering: in June on last year's shoots and in July and August on newly regrown ones. Flowers are collected in complex shields, can be white or pale pink. The species does not differ in frost resistance - up to -18 degrees, so in the middle lane it hibernates under cover.
• Spirea Bumald is a decorative hybrid species, it also has a yellow-leaved form. The bush is low - up to 0.8 m in width and height. It blooms for more than 3 months with bright pink flowers in large shields. The most famous variety is Antoni Vaterer.
• Willow spirea grows wild in Siberia. The tall bush blooms in July and August with bright pink flowers collected in pyramidal panicles.
• Spirea Douglas grows above 2 m.In the second half of summer, it is decorated with pink flowers, collected in a paniculate inflorescence.
• When crossing the previous species and spirea willow leaf we got Billard's spirea. A tall, frost-resistant shrub blooms in the second half of summer and is decorated with large pink paniculate inflorescences until the very frosts.
• Also, the hybrid spirea is lilac-colored for a long time, only paniculate inflorescences, in accordance with the name, have a lilac-pink color. The bush can grow up to 2 m.

Spirea: features of cultivation

Spireas are unpretentious, but with proper careful care they give abundant flowering. Different flowering times dictate different pruning times. Some species and varieties have special soil and maintenance preferences. Most spirits prefer humus-rich, but not heavy soil without stagnant water, but they will feel good even on not very fertile soil. To keep the roots from getting wet, they need drainage. But before you plant a plant, you need to propagate it.

Shrub propagation

Spirea is very easy to propagate. Some species produce root shoots that can be transplanted. Parts of a divided bush take root well. Flexible shoots allow cuttings to be rooted. For propagation of all species, cuttings can be used, and for non-hybrid forms and varieties, seeds can also be sown.

Cuttings

When rooting the cuttings, you will get an exact copy of the parent plant. Green cuttings in early flowering varieties are cut at the beginning of June, and in late flowering varieties at the end of the month. For already lignified cuttings, the best rooting time is autumn, September or October.

• The annual green shoot is cut and cut into pieces with 5-6 leaves.
• Remove the bottom pair of leaves, cut the rest by half.
• The lower cut is placed in a vessel with an epin solution for 12 hours.
• It is treated with a powdery root stimulant.
• They are planted in a container with loose soil, sprinkled with a layer of sand at an angle of about 40 degrees to stimulate root formation.
• Cover with foil or glass jar and put in lacy shade under the trees.
• They moisten the soil in the cuttings, preventing it from drying out, and the cuttings themselves are sprayed several times a day.
• In autumn, the container is dropped into the soil, mulched with fallen leaves and covered with a wooden box.
• In the spring, the shelter is removed. After the appearance of young shoots, the plants are planted in the garden in a permanent place.

Seed propagation

In non-hybrid varieties and species, seed germination reaches 80%. Collect them when the boxes turn brown, but have not yet opened. Dose in the room for 2 weeks. You can sow both before winter and in spring. Seeds do not require stratification. Seedlings dive when 2 true leaves are formed. Further care: watering as needed, 2 dressings with full mineral fertilizer. In the fall, seedlings are planted in a seedling bed, and next year in a permanent place. They begin to bloom for 3 years.

Landing in open ground

Proper planting is the key to abundant flowering and plant health. It is very important to maintain the optimal distance between the plants in order to provide them with the necessary nutritional area. When laying a hedge, it is enough to plant spireas 30 cm apart, for a normal planting, the distance should be greater, since the bushes grow strongly in width: for tall varieties - about 1 m, for undersized varieties - 0.8 m.

The choice of planting material

Now on sale there are many varieties and hybrids of spirea. The choice of a plant depends, first of all, on what place the spirea will occupy in the landscape design of a particular site. A hedge will require many plants of the same species, it is better if they are tall. As a tapeworm, you can plant an openwork bush with long flowering. On an alpine slide, undersized compact varieties will be appropriate. But whichever variety you choose, the plant should have a developed and healthy root system, consisting of 3 taproots and a well-developed lobe covered with a clay mash. With spring planting, not swollen buds, and with autumn planting, already flown leaves. It is best to choose a container-grown seedling that can be planted throughout the growing season.

How and when to plant?

Spirea is planted in pre-dug holes. Their size should be slightly larger than the root system of the plant. Usually the depth is about 70 cm, 20 of which falls on the drainage of expanded clay or brick fragments. The diameter of the hole is determined by the size of the roots.

Landing Algorithm:

• a plant is placed on a mound of earth poured in a hole, spreading the roots;
• fill up the earth, taking into account that the root collar is strictly at the level of the soil;
• watered in the planting circle using 2 to 3 buckets of water;
• mulch the soil around the bush with a layer of peat 7 cm thick.

Planting time depends on the selected variety: late flowering plants are planted in spring, early flowering plants in autumn, but no later than 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost.

Soil preparation and site

The planting site should be well lit by the sun, a little shading is allowed during the day. It must be remembered that in the shade of the spirea it blooms badly.

This plant is undemanding to the soil. The preferred soil for spirea is light sod or leafy, with a neutral or slightly acidic soil reaction.Heavy clay soils are improved by adding sand and peat, a little clay should be added to light sandy soils. From fertilizers, you can add Art. tablespoons of long-acting ABA fertilizer for each bush. This amount will be enough for the plant for several years.

The nuances of planting in spring, autumn

If the variety blooms in summer, it is better to plant it in spring, early flowering varieties are planted in autumn, but so that the bushes take root before the onset of frost. In both cases, the plants must be dormant. In the spring, the buds should not swell yet, and in the fall the leaf fall should already end.

Outdoor care for spirea

An unpretentious plant does not require special care measures, but top dressing and watering made on time will provide it with maximum decorative effect.

How to water properly?

Spirea is a drought-resistant plant, but in extreme heat and in the absence of rain for a long time, it must be watered. This is especially true for recently planted bushes. For an adult plant, the watering rate is 1.5 buckets per bush. For undersized species and varieties, one bucket is enough. Watering is sufficient once every 2 weeks, well soaking the root layer.

Fertilization and feeding

In order for the spireas to grow and bloom well, they should be fed regularly.

You can choose the following power plan:

• in spring, nitrogen mineral or organic fertilizer; for early flowering varieties, additional feeding with complete mineral fertilizer with microelements is needed;
• in June, plants are fed with full mineral fertilizer;
• at the end of August, fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium salts is needed so that the spireas are better prepared for winter.

At the end of summer, spireas cannot be fed with any fertilizers containing nitrogen, this can provoke the growth of new shoots that do not have time to ripen and freeze in winter.

All dressings can be applied both dry and liquid, combining them with watering. The next day, the soil around the plant must be loosened.

Spirea pruning

It is held on several dates, depending on the destination.

• Spring pruning is sanitary. Only dry and frost-damaged shoots are removed.
• Formative. Spireas blooming in summer on the shoots of the current year are pruned in the spring immediately after the snow melts, combining formative pruning with sanitary pruning. Thin branches thickening the bush are removed - they will not give a good flowering. Different types of spirea have their own subtleties in pruning. Pruning of Douglas and Boomald spirits begins only in the fourth year of life. Miniature varieties not exceeding 40 cm in height are cut into 2 buds. Cut shoots with foliage that does not match the color of the variety. After flowering, the seed pods are removed, if there is no need for seeds - this contributes to the re-blooming of the inflorescences. It is enough to cut off a third of the shoot. The green hedge is trimmed to give the desired shape. Spring flowering spireas form after flowering, cutting off the shoots at the level of a strong young growth. The crown of the bush should be symmetrical.
• Anti-aging pruning. It is carried out in adult bushes, starting from the 7th year of life. All old shoots are removed, leaving no more than 5-7 young ones, while maintaining the symmetry of the bush. This pruning is best done in several stages, so as not to greatly weaken the bush.

Preparing for winter

The first wintering at a recently planted bush is a serious test. But adult plants, despite the frost resistance of most varieties, and species also need preparation for winter. For many of them, it is enough to feed the plants in August with potash and phosphorus fertilizers, to carry out moisture-charging irrigation after leaf fall and to mulch the trunk circle with humus.

For less frost-resistant varieties, you will have to build a shelter:

• tie the branches into a bunch;
• bend the beam to the ground, fixing it with special fasteners;
• fall asleep with dry leaves;
• additionally throw in snow.

Plant diseases and pests

Spiraea rarely suffers from disease, but in a damp summer it can be damaged by powdery mildew and gray mold. To eliminate them, copper-containing fungicides, Fitosporin, colloidal sulfur are used.

Among the most common pests are aphids, blue meadow sawfly, whitefly and spider mites. Insecticides are effective against the first three: Fitoverm, Actellik. Insectoacaricides are suitable against the tick: Metaphos.

The nuances of growing in Siberia, in the Urals, in the Moscow region

Almost all varieties and types of spirea are suitable for growing in central Russia. Shrubs such as Japanese Spirea and Nippon Spirea need additional winter shelter.

In the Urals, the climate is more severe. In its southern part, almost all types of spirits will grow well. In the middle lane and, especially in the north, frost-resistant shrubs should be preferred. The same can be said for spirea in Siberia. Only undersized varieties are able to overwinter under the snow without much loss. If medium and tall plants are not covered, then constant frosting in winter is guaranteed to them, decorativeness and abundant flowering cannot be achieved in such conditions.

Correctly selected varieties of spirea are able to create a flowering conveyor throughout the growing season and will be a real decoration of any garden.

Good day to all readers!

Today we'll talk about planting a spirea, further care, reproduction and many different varieties.

You rarely find such a variety of species and varieties as in spirea! Among them there are giants up to 2.5 m in height, there are also dwarfs less than 20 cm in height. Branches are creeping, they can be recumbent or spread out, there are also erect branches.

The bark on them can be from light to dark brown. On woody shoots, the bark begins to flake off.

The leaves are incredibly diverse, the shape depends on the species or variety - they are all petioled, but they can be lanceolate, they are round, and in some varieties they have three or five lobes.

The flowers are small, from snow-white to crimson, in large numbers collected in inflorescences. All spireas bloom in spring or summer. In some varieties, these are panicles, in others, scutes or pyramids, but spike-shaped inflorescences are also found. In different spirits, the inflorescences are located in different ways: they can be located only at the ends of the shoots, they can be along the entire length of the branch. And now more about

Planting and caring for spireas

Selection and preparation of a seedling

Planting spirea, both spring and summer blooming, can be done in spring and autumn. In a garden center or nursery of ornamental crops, it is better to choose a seedling with a closed root system or with a lump of earth.

The seedling should be young, compact and free of leaves. Spireas, on which leaves have appeared, do not tolerate transplantation well.

You should not buy overgrown bushes with very branched shoots. Not the best choice - plants in which roots have sprouted from the drainage hole. On the one hand, this is a confirmation that the seedling has been growing in this pot for a long time, and not planted in it an hour before the sale, on the other hand, the earthen lump is all entwined with roots and is already cramped in a closed volume.

In plants with an open root system, it is necessary to check the quality of the root lobes. The roots should be moist, elastic, free of broken off and blackened on the cut. There should be no dry and brittle roots. Useful when the open root system is covered with a mixture of clay, manure, and a root stimulant.

The branches should be lively, flexible, with green bark, healthy buds. Small numbers of second-order branches are welcome.

Reproduction of spirea by dividing the bush. Landing of the parcels.

Selecting and preparing a landing site

Like every plant, the spirea has its own characteristics of choosing a place and method of planting.

• All spireas can grow both in a sunny place and with some shading. In partial shade, the bushes grow better, but form fewer flowers.At the same time, on spireas, in a slight shade, flower baskets are brighter in color and retain their decorative effect for a longer time.
• The soil is preferable permeable, moderately moist. To improve the composition of the garden soil, leafy or sod soil can be added to its composition. Heavy clayey soils are loosened with peat and sand. Spirea Billard and its hybrids do not tolerate calcareous soils.
• When planting spireas, they must create a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick.
• A pit for planting is prepared one third larger than the earthen lump of the seedling, at least 0.5 m deep, while the root collar should be at the same level as in the nursery.
• It is better to plant in cloudy weather, during the rain, the survival rate of plants is higher.
• Suitable neighbors for spirea bushes are conifers.

Planting spirea in spring

In the spring, spireas are planted, blooming in summer. You need to hurry up with planting and have time to plant the bushes before bud break.

At any time of planting, the pit is prepared in the same way: the walls must be vertical and dig it 2-4 days before planting. The drainage layer should be at least 15, and preferably 20 cm.

• When planting, you need to shorten the aerial part and cut off the very long and dried roots.
• The soil removed from the planting pit is mixed with fertilizer, if necessary with peat or sand.
• At the bottom of the pit, a mound of earth is arranged, a seedling is placed on it.
• With an open root system, all the roots are straightened, directed in different directions and sprinkled with earth.
• Having covered the roots by half, a bucket of water is poured into the pit.
• The pit is completely filled up.
• The soil around the bush is compacted and the seedling is slightly pulled up so that the roots are straightened.
• An earthen rampart is formed around the bush, watered and sprinkled with mulching material to retain moisture.

Planting spirea in the fall

In the fall, spireas of any flowering period are planted and transplanted. It is important to complete this process before the end of the leaf fall. At this time, you can propagate the bushes by dividing the bush. The age of the spirea should not exceed 3-4 years. In older shrubs, the root system is very large, it is difficult to remove it from the ground and divide it.

The bush to be divided is dug out, leaving a clod of earth slightly larger than the projection of the crown. Some roots that have been chopped off will not harm the bush. The bush extracted from the ground is lowered into a container of water. The damp earth will remain at the bottom, the root system will be fully visible. It is allowed to remove old soil from the roots with running water.

It is better to divide the bush with a sharp pruner. On each plot we leave a branched lobe of roots and two or three one or two summer shoots. Then they are planted as in spring: a drainage layer is created, an earthen mound is poured, roots are spread on it, covered with soil and watered as the roots are buried, an irrigation hole is created and the surface is mulched.

Japanese spirea

Care: watering, fertilizing, pruning, sheltering

All spireas belong to plants from the "It grows by itself" series. Caring for it is minimal: moderate watering, loosening, weeding, top dressing, pruning.

The root system of spirits is shallow, hence the need to mulch the soil, watering at least twice a month. 1.5 buckets of water are poured into each watering under the bush.

It is imperative to loosen the soil and remove weeds. As a top dressing, a complex fertilizer or mullein infusion with the addition of superphosphate (10 g per bucket of infusion) is used. The most important top dressing is after pruning and before flowering.

Spireas are almost not damaged by pests and diseases. Aphids and spider mites are found on them. Pests often settle on young shoots. Aphids not only suck out the juices, weakening the plants, but a sooty fungus settles on the secretions of aphids, which impairs the appearance. You can fight them with any chemicals or herbal decoctions. With a small number of pests, they can be washed off with a stream of water. But damage from pests is often insignificant and does not affect the decorative effect of the bushes.

Spirea pruning

Sooner or later, spirea bushes grow to such a size that they need to be trimmed. How to do it correctly without losing decorativeness?

Flowers on spring-flowering varieties are located along the entire length of the shoot, which means that only the tips frozen in winter are removed from them. Old shoots are removed once every 7-14 years. Such branches are cut at ground level, and 5-6 of the young shoots that have grown are left for future flowering. After another year or two, the next obsolete shoots are removed. Thus, the entire bush is rejuvenated. Sanitary pruning of bushes can be done throughout the season.

Spireas blooming in summer are trimmed in early spring. The pruned shoot is shortened to large buds, small shoots and inconveniently located ones are completely removed. After strong pruning, new, strong branches grow. Aging shoots must be removed regularly, otherwise the bush will not have the strength to form renewal shoots. Bushes aged 4 and older can be pruned up to 30 cm from the ground annually. If such pruning does not rejuvenate the bush and strong shoots do not appear on it, then the bush must be divided or replaced. The average life span of a spirea bush is 15-20 years.

Spirea gray Grefsheim

Reproduction of spirea

Spire breeding methods - seeds, cuttings, dividing the bush and layering. Let's consider each of them.

Seeds

The most inconvenient breeding method. In this way, non-hybrid species are propagated. The varietal qualities of seedlings are not transmitted through seeds. In addition, laborious seed stratification is required to increase germination.

Cuttings

Produces good results. Correctly and timely harvested cuttings in 70% of cases are rooted without the use of root formers. Cuttings from bushes that bloom in spring are harvested in early June, summer-flowering spireas are cut in late June-July. Lignified cuttings of all spirits take root in early - mid-autumn.

For rooting, a strong annual shoot is taken, it is divided into cuttings with 5-6 buds. The lower 2-3 leaves are removed along with the cuttings, half of the leaf is cut off on the rest. A good result is obtained by soaking the cuttings for several hours in a solution of epin (1 ml of epin is dissolved in 2 liters of water). The lower cut of the cutting can be treated with a root.

Prepared cuttings at an angle of 30-45 degrees are planted in a moist substrate. It can be sand, perlite, vermiculite, nutrient soil. It is very convenient to cover the planted cuttings with plastic bottles, the bottom of which is cut off. In such an improvised greenhouse, a more uniform temperature is maintained (laminated plastic, transparent) and the humidity can be flexibly regulated.

First, the plugs can be screwed on and a complete tightness can be arranged, then, after removing the plug, we arrange airing. Having arranged a shade over the plantings, it is not necessary to spray the cuttings under plastic caps several times a day; it is enough to periodically water the soil around the cuttings.

Before the onset of stable frosts, the cuttings, together with the bottles, are covered with insulation - leaves, tops, branches. In winter, they are insulated with snow. In the spring, the shelter is removed, and when shoots appear, young bushes can be transferred to a permanent place.

Dividing the bush

It is better to divide the spirea bush in the fall. Carefully dig out the bush to be divided. It is better to shake the earth from the roots so that you can better see where the bush can be divided. Each divided bush should have 2-3 strong shoots and a sufficient root lobe. The divided bush is planted in a new place, taking into account the planting depth in the old place. Drainage device, creation of an irrigation hole and watering are required.

Reproduction by layering

In the spring, a strong one-year shoot is bent to the ground (you can cut the bark at the point of contact with the ground), placed in a prepared hole, pinned to the ground and covered with a nutrient mixture. Long shoots can be dug in several places - you get several layers.By autumn, roots are formed on the damaged area and the seedling can be separated.

Shelter spirea for the winter

Although the fibrous root system is located close to the surface, low and high temperatures, most of the spirales are easily tolerated. Some types of spiraea, such as gray, medium, low, three-lobed, oak-leaved, are not damaged even up to -50C, on spiraea of ​​Bumald, birch-leaved, Emilia, densely flowered, white, sharp-toothed in such frosts, it is possible that annual shoots freeze.

It is possible to secure the planted spireas in Central Russia if the shoots are tied into one bunch and, bending to the ground, covered with fallen leaves with a layer of about 15 cm, and covered with cut branches on top, protecting from leaf blowing and better snow retention. Bushes planted in autumn in any region are better covered for the winter. To do this, you can use fallen leaves, tops of vegetable plants, cut branches.

Types and varieties

The whole variety of spirits is divided into two large groups blooming in spring and summer. Spring blooming spireas create fountains of white flowers and fill the garden with a cloud of white flowers. The leaves of some species of spirits in the fall paint shrubs in various colors from yellow to purple-red.

The spiraea flowering season opens with gray spirea. It is a voluminous shrub with arched drooping branches, densely covered with small white flowers. The most famous and popular variety of sulfur spirea is "Grefsheim".

Spirea gray Grefsheim

Behind her, Thunberg's spirea blooms. Its bush grows no higher than 1m. A distinctive feature of the species is that the leaves remain on it for almost a whole year.

Spirea Thunberg

The flowering of the Thunberg spirea is supported by the sharp-toothed spirea. Its white flowers are collected in medium-sized inflorescences that bloom on gracefully curved branches.

Spirea sharp-toothed or spirea of ​​Argut

Spirea Wangutta blooms next. Shrubs up to 2m in height bloom profusely in May-June.

Spirea Wangutta

In May-July, the Nippon spirea blooms. Its bushes have erect shoots slightly drooping in the upper part.

Spirea nippon

The most abundant flowering spirea is Plena. Blooms in May-June, in autumn the bush turns purple-red.

Spiraea lily

A few more photos of the beauties of spirits!

Spirea Japanese "Little Princess"Spirey Bumald "Gold Flame"Spirea Billard

Garden use and partners

The use of all spirits is very diverse. These shrubs quickly form living flowering hedges that easily fill large areas. It is successful to combine spireas in individual plantings, and in combinations with other trees or shrubs, and to create mixed hedges. The eye-catching shape of the spirea bushes and slender shoots create an attractive contrast to the dark-colored neighbors.

Spire bushes successfully create bright, flowering, hedges. They cut their hair easily. Especially beautiful are uncut shrubs of weeping shape, strewn with boiling white flowers.

Spirea hedge

Solitary spireas are good as a backdrop for perennial herbaceous or bulbous plants.

Summer blooming spireas will fill the voids between the conifers well, where they will create bright accents throughout the season.

Low-growing, dwarf spirea varieties form a unique colored carpet when planted on a sunlit slope. Such low bushes will adorn rockeries, rocky gardens, alpine slides.

Taller hybrids are suitable for framing, on the edge of the lawn, in the foreground of living partitions, in a flower bed with herbaceous perennials.

The shining white flowers of the spirea make it a good partner for bulbs, bushes and perennials that bloom in early spring.

A good solution for a bright spring flower bed is yellow daffodils and red tulips against the backdrop of undersized spirea.

White jets of "fountains" of Wangutta spirea will add elegance and add energy to plantings of herbaceous perennials blooming in late spring - bearded irises or peonies.

Spring-flowering spireas are organically combined in bright hedges, they are successfully combined with lovely and red weigels planted nearby, Golden rain bean or purple-leaved hazel will create a suitable background.

If you plant a spirea, an ordinary viburnum and a chubushnik next to it, you get a "white dream"

In July, when most of the shrubs have already faded, summer-flowering spireas begin to bloom. They are planted in the foreground of mixed hedges, against the background of conifers, or as separate shrubs.

The bright red flowers of Bumald's spirea will become even brighter if planted against a background of white or yellow cinquefoil shrub. Spiraea and St. John's wort are successfully combined with each other, if they are picked up at the same height. It is better to combine large groups of these colors.

David's Buddley is good to use as a background.

Having correctly selected the varieties and varieties of spirea, you can enjoy its flowering from spring to mid-summer.

Video about the reproduction of spirea

I wish everyone to enjoy the flowering of spirea in the garden, planting and care is now no secret for you.

Best regards, Sophia Guseva.

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There are about 90 species of the spirea plant. They grow mostly in the forest-steppe, steppes and semi-desert zones of the northern part of the globe. The genus as a whole is characterized by a wide variety both in terms of shapes and colors - there are pyramidal, erect, creeping species with orange, yellow, purple-red foliage.

This allows you to carry out almost any design idea in your garden, in a greenhouse, and so on. By choosing various combinations of several types of spirits, experienced gardeners achieve continuous flowering from spring to autumn, moreover, these plants themselves are distinguished by abundant and long flowering. According to this characteristic, each species is included in one of 2 groups - spring-flowering or summer-flowering. The first bloom with white flowers on last year's shoots, and the second - pink, red, crimson on new ones.

Spirea varieties with photos and names

Spring flowering spireas form numerous bushy stems, of which a 10-year-old specimen can number from 30 to 60. These include:

Spirea Wangutta - 2-meter tall, with drooping branches and colorful leaves (gray-green color changes to motley orange in autumn).

Spirea Argut - one of the earliest flowering species, with a lush, spreading bush, about 2 meters high and a pleasant aroma of flowers that cover the entire surface of the branches.

Spirea nippon - no more than 1 meter in height, spherical with the outlines of a creeping bush, covered with flowers throughout.

Spirea Thunberg - its foliage changes color from green in summer to orange-crimson with the arrival of autumn.

Spirea crenate - a rare species under protection, about 1 meter tall, with a loose crown, grayish-green foliage crenate at the edges, and corymbose inflorescences of white flowers with a yellow tint.

Spirea gray - a hybrid of several species at once, more than 1.5 meters high, with drooping branches and gray-green foliage.

Its variety is widely known. spirea grefsheim 2 meters high, with drooping brown branches and a lush crown.

Summer blooming includes the following species:

Japanese spirea

One of the most common species in horticulture. Magnificent bushes with pubescent young stems, 1.5 meters high, are covered with ovoid foliage, glaucous below and green above. When autumn comes, the leaves turn fiery red. Flowering is very long - more than 60 days pinkish-red flowers adorn the garden.

On the basis of this spirea, many varieties were bred, for example, blooming in June-July spirea little princesses with a spherical crown more than a meter in diameter, ellipsoidal green foliage and pinkish flowers.

Spirea shiroban (genpey) is a small (less than a meter tall) shrub with thin green foliage, white and pink flowers, blooms in full summer.

Variety spirea goldflame has a height of 80 cm, foliage that changes color from yellowish orange to rich orange in autumn and small red or pink flowers.

Spirea crisp even lower - up to 50 cm in height - with a spherical crown, erect stems, crowned with umbrellas of light pink inflorescences.

The most winter-hardy and one of the fastest growing varieties - spirea macrophile - grows 1.5 meters in height, blooms in June-August with pink corymbose inflorescences, also stands out against the background of other varieties with large (up to 20 cm long) and wrinkled foliage, which is painted in dark red tones in spring, becomes green, while in autumn it is golden yellow.

Spirea Goldmound - a dwarf form no more than 25 cm in height, blooming from mid-July with small pink inflorescences, with bright yellowish-golden foliage and a spherical bush shape.

Variety spirea albiflora (or simply - white) is slightly higher (under 60 cm), has oval green foliage and differs as unusual for summer-flowering spirits as for the usual spring-flowering color of flowers - snow-white, while in the flowering phase the bush exudes a wonderful aroma.

Spirea Bumald

A species that blooms in June-September, with a catchy compact bush up to 1 meter tall, reddish foliage, multiple flat corymbose inflorescences of pink-lilac color and multi-colored stems (young ones are painted green, older ones are brown-red, peeling) ...

Spirea willow - is huge, its height is 2 meters, and the length of the leaves is 10 cm, the stems are erect red, and the flowers, organized in inflorescences, are inherent in white and pink colors.

Birch spirea - named so, due to the similarity of foliage with birch, characterized by a shrub less than a meter high, a spherical crown, ribbed curved stems, variegated yellow foliage, dense white and pinkish inflorescences and flowering in June from 4 years of age.

Spirea Douglas - from North America, with straight brown-red pubescent stems, oblong-lanceolate foliage with irregular teeth and pink flowers, pleasing to the eye from July for about 45 days.

Spirea Billard - a very winter-hardy hybrid of willow spire and Douglas, wildly growing in the south of the Caucasus Mountains, in the Arkhangelsk region, 2 meters tall, with spreading branches, broadly lanceolate foliage (about 10 cm), bright pink flowers that form dense inflorescences-pyramids, blooming from early August until the onset of frost.

Spirea dwarf - also a hybrid, on the contrary - not winter-hardy, rarely found in gardening, according to the name, it differs in stunting (20-30 cm), creeping shoots, oblong oval-toothed foliage along the edges with pointed tips (the length of the leaves is from 1 to 3 cm, width - up to 1.5 cm, color - grayish with pubescence below and green above) and white, like spring-flowering species, flowers in paniculate inflorescences blooming in the second half of June.

Spirea Kalinolistnaya

Separately highlight the view spirea, or rather - vesicle, which is popularly called “meadowsweet”, However, if you are aware of the official classification of these plants, it turns out that they represent one family (Rosaceae), but two different genera - vesicle and spirea.

The gallbladder grows in the eastern part of North America.In comparison with spireas, it is incredibly tall, reaching a height of 3 meters, has spreading, drooping branches that form a dense, hemispherical crown. The foliage, at the same time, does not differ in large size - 4 cm in length, with serrate-toothed edges, the top of the leaves is green, and the bottom is lighter, sometimes with slight pubescence.

The diameter of the flowers that are related to the spirea is 1.2 cm, they are white or pink in color, they are collected in corymbose inflorescences. The plant is characterized by frost resistance and a short flowering period relative to spirits - about 3 weeks.

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Spirea planting and care in the open field

To get a healthy and strong spirea bush in the open field, special skills are not required. But, in particular for the Japanese variety, there are certain rules of care. She, as you know, is included in the list of summer flowering, which means that it is better to plant in the spring, and you need to have time to do this before the buds begin to bloom. The optimal time is considered to be evening, in cool cloudy weather.

The photophilousness of the plant determines its good growth in a sunny area, however, partial shade is also suitable. A preliminary examination of the seedlings is necessary for the presence of damaged roots, which must be cut using a pruner. After inspection, the roots are treated with root or heteroauxin according to the instructions.

When planting, the root collar is positioned flush with the soil surface. The planting hole itself must be dug to a size that exceeds the size of the roots by at least 2 times. After completing all these procedures, a hole is weeded around the circumference of the bush and watered well until the earth subsides.

Tavolga is also a member of the Pink family, grown when planting and nursing in the open field without much hassle, but requires compliance with the rules of maintenance. All the necessary recommendations for growing and caring for this plant can be found in this article.

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Watering spirea

Due to the fact that the root system of spirits does not penetrate deeply into the ground, it is not easy for them to tolerate the dryness of the soil, and they begin to dry out on their own.

Considering this, the plant should be moderately watered during dry periods with 15 liters of water per bush twice a month.

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Soil for spirea

The composition of the soil does not really matter, but on fertile, drained, moderately moist soil, the spirea will bloom more abundantly. It is recommended to fertilize poor soil with peat or a mixture of sand and leafy soil and, if necessary, arrange drainage from pebbles or broken bricks.

For the Japanese spirea, periodic weeding and loosening of the earth is also important, which facilitates the flow of air to the roots.

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Spirea transplant in the fall

Transplanting and dividing the bush is especially relevant if the plant is 3-4 years old. In cases with older specimens, everything becomes more complicated due to the fact that the earthen lump becomes large, and it is difficult to manipulate it.

In the autumn, both spring and summer flowering spirits are planted. As usual, the autumn planting is carried out in conjunction with the transplantation of the divisions before the leaf fall ends. The bush is dug along a radius slightly exceeding half of the projection of the crown, while, if it is necessary to cut down some roots, the plant will not suffer.

After removing the bush, it is worth rinsing its root system - the not very overgrown young growth is placed in a container filled with water, the earth is allowed to turn off and settle, and the root system is washed with running water. Cutting is performed with pruning shears to form 2-3 pieces with a good root lobe and 2-3 strong stems. Cord-like roots should be trimmed, the entire root system as a whole straightened (this can be done even during flushing).

In the dug hole in the middle, a mound is poured into the earth, a seedling is placed on it and the roots are again smoothed, then they are covered with soil, the surface of which must be crushed.The transplanted plants are watered several times. Only summer-flowering species can be planted in spring. Purchased seedlings should be carefully examined - they should be without overdried roots, with flexible stems containing powerful buds.

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Spirea fertilization

When planting, it is recommended to apply a complex long-acting AVA fertilizer in the amount of 1 tablespoon of granules to ensure uniform plant nutrition for 2-3 years.

This top dressing will supply the spirea with all the required macro- and microelements, except for nitrogen, which can be added separately in spring together with mineral (30 grams of urea or 100 grams of kemira per square meter) or organic (compost with a layer of 5-7 cm thick) fertilizer.

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Spirea pruning

Trimming the spirea is one of the most important points in caring for it. With its help, gardeners achieve the beauty of the forms and the full flowering of these plants every year.

The process should start in early spring - remove weak and dead stems that develop to shorten to strong buds. Age specimens (more than 4 years old) must be cut vigorously - 20-25 cm from the soil surface.

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Spirea in landscape design

Clumps of varied spirits can provide a very long flowering period - from May to September. New varieties with decorative foliage will add elegance to the composition even in late autumn.

The effectiveness of massive group plantings of spirea, lilac and mock-orange together with, for example, lilies of the valley is manifested throughout the year, except, of course, winter. At the same time, the color of the latter is selected in accordance with the varieties of spirits, and, given their rich choice, it will not be difficult to implement the plan.

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Spirea preparation for winter

Japanese spirea is quite frost-resistant (some of its varieties, mentioned above, are distinguished by special winter hardiness). However, shelter for the winter will not hurt her, in particular, when it comes to a young shrub.

The bending of the shoots to the ground can fully guarantee a successful wintering with the Japanese spirea (as, incidentally, the Nippon, Bumald). Pinning them and covering them with dry leaves on a layer of 10-15 cm.

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Reproduction of spirea by cuttings

Reproduction of spirits, in addition to the division of the bush described above, is possible by cuttings and seed. Cutting gives a very good result - rooting with a probability of 70% without using a growth stimulant.

Spring-flowering species are cuttings in early June, summer-flowering species - at the end of June or next month. In autumn, the cuttings become lignified, and they can be rooted (approximate time - September-October).

After cutting a straight one-year shoot, it is cut into pieces with 5-6 leaves. The leaves in the lower part of the cutting must be removed with petioles, the remaining ones must be cut by 1/2, then the cuttings must be placed in dissolved epin for 12 hours (1 ml per 2 liters of water).

Before planting the cutting in a pot of moistened sand, it will not be superfluous to sprinkle the lower node with a rootstock. Landing angle - 30-45 °. It is also necessary to provide a cover, which can be glass or film.

The pot should stand in the shade, the cuttings should be sprayed with water 2-3 times a day. With the arrival of frost, cuttings are dropped in the garden bed, covered with foliage, placed on top of the box with the bottom up and left so until spring. Next year, the cuttings will acquire new stems and will be ready for planting in a permanent place.

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Spirea from seeds

It is impossible to propagate hybrids by seed method, because it leads to a loss of varietal qualities. Sowing is done in the spring in boxes with a substrate consisting of leafy soil or well-ventilated high-moor peat.

Before sowing, the surface of the substrate is moistened, and then lightly sprinkled with peat or earth. The seedlings will all sprout together (the probability of sprouting is 50-100%).After 8-10 days, after which it is recommended to immediately process them with foundation (20 grams per 10 liters - per 3 square meters of territory) to protect them from fungi.

In the 1st year, the spirea planted in this way will form one winding stem without branches and a root system consisting of a taproot and several lateral ones.

Seedlings dive 2-3 months after the seedlings appeared (or in the 2nd year, if the seedlings are weak). Moreover, it is better to do it in cloudy or in the evening. They are removed, the roots are slightly pruned and moved to the garden bed, which is then carefully loosened, moistened and mulched. In the 1st year, the seedling will reach a height of 5-10 cm, and already in the 2nd year, its development will noticeably accelerate.

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Diseases and pests

Spireas do not tend to be attacked by any pests, and their decorative appearance is not particularly dependent on external influences. One of the most influencing the state of the plant is spider mite, the females of which spend the winter under fallen leaves, and in May they settle on the underside of young leaves.

The appearance of whitish spots on the upper sides of the leaves testifies to the defeat, they are out of time turn yellow, dry and crumble... Most of all, the pest is noticeable in July-August, especially if the summer is dry.

Acrex (0.2%) will help to effectively cope with the problem. It is better not to postpone the treatment - it is worth starting already when there are 2-3 parasites on the leaves.

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Spirea, planting and caring for which is not difficult, can be planted and grown without unnecessary trouble, so the shrub is of great interest and attention for many gardeners. The plant does not require undue attention, but it blooms very beautifully, which is why it is so fond of many summer residents. To grow a gorgeous shrub, you first need to learn the biological characteristics and cultivation techniques ...

Varieties of spirea, varieties and hybrids

Spirea (lat. Spiraea) includes up to 100 species, each of which has its own name. Rarely, but you can hear or read another name - meadowsweet, whose origins stretch from ancient Russia. Spirea varieties are very diverse in shape, color and even leaf shape. The shrub is a perennial plant, so every year you can observe how the spirea grows and becomes more lush.

Spirea is unpretentious to care for, sometimes due to weather conditions due to lack of light and heat it grows with fewer flowers, but it invariably remains beautiful. There are spring-flowering and summer-flowering spireas. In spring flowers, flowers are predominantly white, formed on the shoots of the second year, in the month of May the bush becomes covered with beautiful inflorescences:

oak-leaved spirea is a weeping bush, can grow up to two meters and bloom earlier than other varieties, after May 10-15. The shrub is completely covered with flowers;

in the photo - oak-leaved spirea

spirea Arguta (sharp-serrated) begins to bloom in the last days of May. The shrub has narrow leaves, drooping branches, grows up to 1.5-2 m in height;

spirea gray (ashy), often referred to as the bride. It is distinguished by its splendor, pubescent leaves of a grayish-green hue, small and white flowers. The abundance and splendor of flowers is simply mesmerizing.

A fairly large number of shrubs belong to spring flowering, among them the Nipponskaya spirea stands out. It is a small shrub (up to 1 m), in the shape of a ball, blooms closer to June. Another representative of the spirea Wangutta is a vigorous plant (2.3-2.5 m) with long flexible shoots, gray green leaves. Flowering begins in the second half of June.

Summer spirea is mostly pink in color and blooms in June or July, depending on the characteristics of the variety. This group includes Japanese spirea, which has many subspecies and varieties.The most common and famous are Nana, Little Princesses, Darts Red, Shirobana, and others.

White-flowered spirea is one of the representatives of the summer-flowering species, characterized by white flowers with a pronounced pleasant aroma, 0.6-0.7 m high. Billard's spirea is a hybrid, very frost-resistant. The leaves are wide, flowers of a delicate pink hue, bloom in July and bloom for quite a long time. Bumald's spirea, which belongs to hybrids, is well-known. The bushes have a height of 0.6-1.2 m, depending on the variety planted. Average winter hardiness, sometimes requires additional shelter (when grown in the northern regions, in the Urals and Siberia).

Agricultural technology of planting spirea

When is it better to plant spirea? Spirea can be planted in spring and autumn. In spring, only summer flowering is planted, with the condition that the leaves have not bloomed on the seedlings yet. The roots of the plant should not be dry, carefully examine the spirea when buying. Shoots should be flexible with good buds. In the case when the roots have been dried, put the spirea in water with the addition of any stimulant for root formation (Kornesil, Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Zircon, etc.).

Where to plant the spirea? Choose a sunny, well-lit area with fertile soil. Please note that the shrub grows over time and forms root shoots, so do not plant near tall, large trees. The best neighbors for the spirea will be juniper, thuja, small spruces.

Correct planting of the spirea presupposes the presence of a planting pit, which is dug a couple of days before planting the shrub. Drainage from pebbles, chipped bricks, and other materials is placed on the bottom, with a layer of 15-20 cm. For heavy clay lands, it is necessary to add sod, leafy soil (2 parts) and peat chips (1 part). The depth of the hole is dug depending on the size of the root system of the spirea, usually 2.5-3 times more.

The seedling is installed vertically, covered with fertile soil, without deepening the root collar, which should be slightly above the surface of the earth or at the level. It is better to plant a shrub in cloudy gloomy weather or in the evening. Watering the spirea after planting is mandatory, pour one or two buckets of water under the bush so that the roots are sufficiently moistened.

In the fall, you can plant spring-flowering and summer-flowering spirea. It is worth noting that the reproduction of spirea is carried out in the fall, by dividing the bush. It is necessary to take into account the timing of planting spirea in the autumn, which have a fairly wide range, depending on the region of cultivation.

Plants are planted before the beginning of leaf fall, with the condition of complete rooting of the plant before the arrival of frost. Usually, in central Russia, spirea is planted in September-October, if the weather permits. In the Urals and Siberia, the work must be completed by October.

Proper care is the key to beauty and abundant flowering

Spirea is quite undemanding in leaving. For good lush flowering and normal growth, the shrub needs a lot of sunlight, fertile land and watering. Shelter of the spirea for the winter is not always required, only in the northern regions with a harsh cold climate and young plants planted in the fall.

A spirea planted in spring should be well watered, especially in the southern regions, in the Kuban, where spring and summer can be quite hot. In summer, pay special attention to watering, make sure that the soil in the near-trunk circle does not turn into an earthen crust, it is important for recently planted spirea plants.

The space near the trunk can be covered with peat to create an optimal microclimate and moisture retention. Instead of peat, you can use humus, which will retain moisture and will be a good fertilizer that feeds the spirea.

in the photo - spirea

It is necessary to fertilize the spirea only if necessary, the shrub grows well even without top dressing. Usually, nutrition is given in early spring, using a mineral fertilizer with a nitrogen content.In the fall, only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied so that the plant gains strength for wintering. Nitrogen fertilizers and mullein should not be applied starting from August, so as not to cause the growth of young shoots.

Caring for the spirea, many gardeners carry out pruning not only to give an aesthetic appearance, but also for the purpose of sanitation, removing weakened, dry, broken branches. Although the plant is rarely infested with pests or more, sanitation is necessary once a year. Spirea pruning is carried out in the fall or spring. It is advisable to cut adult powerful bushes in the autumn, so that the flowering is more abundant in the spring. Young seedlings, as a rule, do not need to be cut in the winter; it is better to do this in the spring, when it will be seen how the plant has overwintered (the frozen shoots are removed).

Reproduction of spirea is quite easy, it can be bred by cuttings, layering or seeds (with the exception of hybrid varieties). We decided to grow a spirea from seeds, then take the usual varieties (not hybrids). You will need a container, box, other container in which peat is placed, well moistened. Seeds are sown, covered with foil, planting is placed in a warm place. When the seedlings grow a little, they make a pick. They are planted in open ground when the threat of frost has passed, mulch and monitor irrigation. Spirea grown from seeds will begin to bloom no earlier than 2-3 years later.

Spirea can be propagated by cuttings green or lignified. Cuttings are carried out in the month of June. Take a good pruner with a sharp blade and cut off the young shoots at the base (in the root zone). Leaves can be left, and the bark can be scratched with pruning shears, so the formation of roots will begin faster. Cuttings are buried in the ground to the beginning of the growth of leaves, be sure to watered.

Reproduction by layering is carried out in the spring with the appearance of the first leaves. The healthy young and bending shoot they like is bent to the ground, fixed with iron brackets and covered with earth, regularly watered. The division of the spirea bush must be carried out with a sharp shovel, in early spring, carefully cutting off the necessary part, which then needs to be transplanted to a new place.