Red and black currant planting and care in the open field

Currant is a very useful berry, most often it is used to prepare various compotes and juices, it is also a part of various jams and preserves.

Growing such a plant in a summer cottage is quite simple. Also, red currant is a rather unpretentious plant.

How to grow red and black currants?

In order for red or black currants to develop well and bring abundant and annual harvests, it is necessary to choose the right place for planting so that the shrub is comfortable:

• currants are not recommended to be planted in places where old bushes of this culture or gooseberries grew before;
• the groundwater level should be no higher than 1.5 meters, otherwise the root system may rot or even die;
• it is also not recommended to plant currants in low-lying places where rainwater or melted snow accumulates;

If it is impossible to plant a shrub in a dry place, you can drain it with expanded clay. Such a tool perfectly restrains excess moisture.

• the health and productivity of a shrub directly depends on the amount of sunlight. In the absence of these indicators, the plant begins to hurt and ceases to resist pests, the berries become smaller or disappear altogether;
• gusty winds have the same effect on currants, so the place should not only be not shaded, but also protected from northerly and easterly winds. For growing bushes, no special agricultural technology is needed. Everything can be done by hand.

Currants grow well in almost any soil, the exceptions are:

• sandy soil;
• rocky ground;
• swampy areas.

Also, this culture prefers neutral soil, therefore, in the presence of acidic soil, it must be preliminarily limed. To do this, 400 grams of crushed limestone or 300 grams of slaked lime is added to one square meter of land.

Juicy and ripe bunches of black currants

Timing for landing at their summer cottage

Currants can be planted both in spring (late March - early April) and in autumn (mid September - early October). But experienced gardeners recommend doing exactly the autumn planting, because it has a lot of advantages:

1. Saplings manage to take root before the onset of cold weather and tolerate winter frosts well. And when this procedure is carried out in the spring, the shrub is actively developing the root system, but it also spends energy on growing foliage and leaves to winter in a weakened form, because of which it may not endure the frosty weather and simply die;
2. Also, plants planted in autumn move faster and, accordingly, begin to bear fruit faster.

For the southern and central regions, autumn planting is more suitable, and in the North or the Urals, red and black currants are planted in spring, so that the root system can get stronger, but at the same time it is necessary to remove all the buds in a timely manner so that there is no foliage on the seedling.

Planting and growing currants

Soil preparation

The initial stage of planting currants is considered to be timely soil preparation:

1. When carrying out an autumn planting, the pit is prepared about 3-4 weeks before the procedure itself., and for spring planting, a hole must be dug in September. Preliminary preparation is needed in order for the soil to become more fertile;
2. Given the biological structure of the root system of red currants, the depth and width of the pit is usually 40-50 centimeters;
3. While digging a hole, the bottom layer is folded separately from the top. Then the fertile (upper) earth is mixed with:

• 2 buckets of compost, humus or rotted compost;
• 100 grams of superphosphate;
• 90 grams of potassium sulfate.

4. In this form, the planting hole is left until the seedling is planted.

It is best to buy seedlings a few days before planting and follow all transportation rules. To do this, the roots of the plant are first moistened, then wrapped in burlap and the resulting structure is strengthened with a plastic bag.

Planting methods

Single landing

With this planting, currants bring the greatest amount of harvest and live much longer than with other methods. Experienced gardeners recommend planting plants at least two meters away from other trees and shrubs.

Sprawling currant bush

Ordinary landing

This method is suitable for those gardeners who want to collect the maximum number of berries from the smallest areas. Usually the row planting is used in the commercial cultivation of red currants. The only drawback is the rapid wear of plants and, accordingly, their rapid death.

Using this method, the characteristics of each variety should be taken into account and shrubs with a lush crown should be planted at a distance of 120-150 centimeters, and plants with a more compact arrangement of shoots at a distance of 70-110 centimeters.

Landing on a trellis

To achieve the desired effect, shrubs are planted at a distance of 50-100 centimeters from each other. After 2-3 years, the branches of the currant are fixed on the installed trellis. In this case, you can get a solid fruiting plane.

Instead of special trellises, you can use a fence that encloses the site.

Landing rules

The technology for planting black currants is as follows:

1. It is best to place the seedling in the hole at an angle of 45 degrees, but a vertical landing is also possible, which is much easier and more familiar;
2. The root collar should be 5-6 centimeters buried in the ground;
3. when digging a hole, you should periodically shake the seedling in order to avoid the formation of air pockets between the roots of the plant;
4. At the next stage, the earth must be carefully tamped.
5. For a plant to take root well in a new place, it is not enough just to plant it correctly... It is necessary to provide proper care for the young bush:
6. Immediately after planting, a small groove is dug around the currants, into which a bucket of water must be gradually poured. Such a procedure will not only moisten the soil, but also improve the contact of the roots with the soil;
7. After the water dries up, the groove is filled with humus, peat, or just dry earth;

For such a procedure, in no case should you use mineral fertilizers and fresh manure, because they can cause burns on the root system and the plant will die in the first year.

8. Also, the ground around the bush can be mulched to a height of 5-10 centimeters;
9. To speed up the formation of the crown of the shrub and avoid the appearance of weak growths immediately after planting, all branches of the plant are shortened to 2-4 buds.

Proper planting procedure is the main key to success in growing healthy shrubs and obtaining a rich harvest.

Young red currant bush

Care

In order for the shrub to give as much yield as possible, you need to properly care for it and not neglect even the seemingly insignificant procedures.

Loosening

The ground around the shrub must be periodically loosened so that the root system receives the required amount of moisture and oxygen. In the root zone, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 centimeters, gradually increasing the depth to 15 centimeters as it moves away from the base of the plant.

Watering

Currants are capable of withstanding a short-term drought, but to obtain bountiful harvests, you need to maintain 80 percent soil moisture, to check this indicator, you can dig out the ground at a depth of 30 centimeters, when compressed into a lump, it must retain its shape.

During watering, you need to saturate the soil with moisture by 40-50 centimeters, for this a young shrub will need 2 buckets of water, and an adult 4-5. There are several ways to water:

• you can dig a groove around the plant and gently pour water into it;
• for large landings, a trench is pulled out and a hose filled with water is installed in it.

After watering, it is recommended to mulch the soil.

Top dressing

In order for a bountiful and large harvest to start on the bush, it is necessary to timely make various top dressing that feed the soil. In the first 2 years after planting, there is no need to fertilize the soil, the plant will have enough nutrients introduced during planting.

Harvest of ripe black currant berries

Prevention of diseases and pests

To avoid the appearance of diseases and pests, it is necessary to treat the shrub with special preparations and carry out sanitary and thinning pruning.
In the spring:

1. Currants are watered once in early May, but if the winter turned out to be with little snow, and the spring was dry, then this procedure is postponed to April;
2. Immediately after the snow melts, it is necessary to carefully loosen the ground;
3. In the spring, the tree is treated for diseases and pests with the help of special preparations or Brodsky liquid;
4. During this period, it is imperative to carry out thinning pruning, removing all frozen, damaged or unnecessarily thickening branches.

At the beginning of leaf blooming, currants are fertilized with 50 grams of urea and 500 grams of wood ash. Top dressing is scattered under the bush, and then carefully buried. It is worth remembering that moisture is needed to dissolve fertilizers, so if the ground is dry and there has not been any precipitation for a long time, then the procedure should be carried out after abundant watering.

During flowering, red currants are fertilized with a complex mineral fertilizer and poultry droppings.

Currants do not tolerate chlorine, so you need to be very careful about the selection of fertilizer and use sulfate instead of potassium chloride.

Also, in the spring, the shrub must be fed with organic fertilizers (humus, compost, manure, etc.). On fertile soils, this procedure is carried out once every 3 years, but on poor lands it will have to be repeated annually.
Summer:

1. In the summer, the shrub needs to be watered as the soil dries up; in normal weather and the absence of drought, the procedure is carried out 1 time in 2 weeks;
2. Experienced gardeners recommend loosening the soil slightly after each watering;
3. Also, in the summer, you need to monitor the cleanliness of the root zone and remove all weeds.
4. During the formation and filling of fruits, currants can be sprayed with growth stimulants, but the safest and most effective method is the application of liquid fertilizers after flowering. Such fertilizers include liquid fertilizing with infusion of mullein, bird droppings or slurry.
5. Many gardeners use infusions prepared on the basis of various herbs, fruit peels, etc. as summer feeding. These products can be used all the time and added with every watering.

In autumn:

1. In autumn, the amount of watering is reduced to zero, it will be necessary to apply an abundant amount of moisture when preparing the shrub for winter;
2. It is also recommended to loosen the ground in the fall so that the roots receive as much oxygen as possible in the winter;
3. It is very important to carry out sanitary pruning in the fall, during which all dry, diseased and damaged branches will be removed. This is necessary in order to get rid of diseases and pests;
4. After harvesting, under the shrub, add:

• 50 grams of superphosphate;
• 20 grams of potassium sulfate;
• Organic fertilizers (on fertile soils once every 2 years).

Bunches of ripe red currant berries

Preparing for winter in the country

Although black currant is a fairly winter-hardy crop, it still needs additional protection in the winter. To do this, you can use one of the following methods:

All branches of the bush must be carefully bent to the ground and the number of bricks must be placed on top, which will serve as a load. When carrying out such a procedure, it is very important not to harm the branches of the plant. Snow is a natural defense against harsh temperatures, so this method is only possible during a snowy winter.

You can also wrap each branch of the shrub in a special agrofibre, while it is advisable to add insulation in the form of mineral wool. This tool is great for severe frosts or at a time when there is no snow cover.

Red and black currants are a wonderful berry, juice or compote from which can easily quench your thirst on a hot day, and the jam made with these fruits has a pleasant and unusual sourness. Currant brings abundant harvests, and growing it in the country will allow you to collect a huge amount of ingredients for processing from one bush.

And at the end, a short video on how to grow currants:

Currants are good for everyone: they are beautiful, tasty and do not require special care. Know yourself, remove the weeds, and put the berries in your mouth. For which gardeners love it, growing almost everywhere, from the Kuban to Siberia. But, you can significantly increase the yield, provide yourself with berries, and sell the surplus. True, for this it is necessary to select suitable varieties, and strictly observe agricultural technology. Read our article and find out how to surprise yourself and your neighbors with rich currant crops.

There is a rule: "To fix something, you need to know how it works." This also applies to the cultivation of currants: in order to achieve high yields, you need to know the biological characteristics of the plant. There are three types of currants:

• black;
• red;
• golden.

The species are similar in principles of agricultural technology and biological characteristics. As part of the article, we will consider black currants, and we will tell you the nuances of growing red as necessary.

Biological features of currants

Currant is a perennial shrub, the height of which does not exceed 1.5-2 m. A feature of the plant is the absence of buds on the roots.

Take a look at the image. The growth of basal shoots (1) begins from the zone of the root collar (6). It is in this way that a currant bush is formed, because it does not give growth. The next year, after the emergence of zero-order shoots, two-year branches appear (2), then three-year branches (3).

This feature of the currant must be taken into account when planting a bush.

Root collar

should be about 10 cm below the soil surface.

In this case, many shoots of the zero order appear, the bush is easier to form, and over time it is possible to rejuvenate without problems. Most gardeners do not know about this, and many Internet resources do not provide such information. Meanwhile, the correct location of the root collar of the bush is the key to the strength of the plant and a bountiful harvest.

Features of the development of stems

Currants differ in the nature of the development of the stem. Conventionally, the plant can be divided into three groups:

1. Many annual branches, but few perennial ones. In the currants of this group, the fruits live for a year or two, then they die, and new ones are formed in their place. After 4-5 years, new fruit branches stop forming and yield decreases. The situation can be corrected by pruning branches older than 4 years "per ring". The most famous variety of black currant of this species is September Daniel.
2. There are few basal shoots, but perennial stems branch well. Fruits on such bushes live for a long time, on average 4-5 years, therefore the bush bears fruit for 6-7 years. If the branch is older, the fruits on it become smaller, the yield decreases. The solution to the problem is the annual cutting of 2-3 perennial branches. This stimulates the growth and development of basal shoots, the bush is renewed in a timely manner, the yield does not decrease. A variety of this type is Pamyat Michurin.
3. In this group, the varieties occupying an average "position" between the previous ones. In other words, both the number of basal shoots and the degree of their branching have an average value. The fruiting period is 5-6 years. It can be increased by shortening the branches to the first strong bud. One of these varieties is Success.

In the picture you can see how fruits are formed on branches of different ages in black currant.

As for the red currant, it has more durable fruits. Subject to agricultural technology, red currants give a greater yield than black currants for 8-10 years. Pruning is mainly aimed not at rejuvenating the bush, but at reducing the degree of thickening.

Currant morphogenesis

If you are scared and decide to quickly scroll through this item - we hasten to reassure you. We will not tell you all the biological subtleties. But knowing the timing of the morphogenesis of currants and what it affects will help to take the necessary measures in a timely manner to increase yields.

Scientists have found that the process of laying a crop begins a year before fruiting. This year, the yield will depend on how the currant developed in the last season. And it is morphogenesis (kidney differentiation) that is the most important stage. The timing of the process is different, depending on the following factors:

• type and variety of currants;
• air temperature;
• the amount of precipitation;
• the number of sunny and cloudy days;
• other conditions.

It was found that in dry and sunny weather, morphogenesis proceeds faster than in cloudy and rainy ones. According to the timing, we can only say for sure that the beginning of kidney differentiation is from July 12, and the end is in the spring of next year. In some years, morphogenesis can begin in early August.

Surprisingly, it is during this period that most inexperienced gardeners calm down, and limit themselves only to weeding and waiting for the harvest. Meanwhile, efforts must be redoubled and the observance of agricultural practices must be monitored.

Currant bushes should receive the required amount of nutrients, water, light. It is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the leaves. Disease-damaged or underdeveloped leaves do not provide high-quality photosynthesis. The significance of this process for plant life is known from the school course in biology.

Different types of currants

Check out the main modern varieties of currants of different types. You can enlarge the photo by clicking and view everything in more detail. The varieties listed below are approved by VNIISPK and zoned.

Smolyaninovskaya currant

One of the few modern varieties that have white fruits.As a result of selection, scientists have obtained a shrub that not only possesses such unusual berries, but also has a high resistance to diseases.

The Smolyaninovskaya variety is easy to care for, it is not afraid of frost, the berries are juicy, with a characteristic sourness. At the same time, a good yield was achieved: if you follow agricultural techniques, then you will receive up to 5 kg of harvest from one bush! It is possible to grow this variety in open ground in the Urals, the Volga region and in the central regions of Russia.

Currant varieties Karaidel

The variety is intended for cultivation in the Urals, but is also suitable for other regions of Russia. The bush is compact, it is not difficult to care for it. Of the amenities - a low degree of infection by fungal diseases, winter hardiness.

The berries are large enough, fragrant, with dense pulp. There are few seeds, you can safely use it for making jams. The only drawback is that it requires regular pruning due to the strong growth of basal shoots.

Dutch red currant

One of the oldest currant varieties. It is known that it was grown in Europe as early as the 17th century. The currant bush is high, the crown density is increased, but at the same time not very spreading. Fruits are dense, with a characteristic sour taste. The seeds are dense, large, therefore the main purpose of the variety is processing and conservation.

Dutch red currant has excellent resistance to fungal diseases. The plant is suitable for growing outdoors in the North-Western regions of Russia, but it does not take root well in the Urals or Kuban.

Currant Krasa Altai

Are you looking for a variety of currants that can be grown outdoors in the Urals and Siberia? Pay attention to the Beauty of Altai. The plant is susceptible to powdery mildew and some pests, but, with timely preventive treatments, it will delight you with yield.

The variety perfectly tolerates severe frosts, self-pollinates. A pleasant addition - the berries are firmly adhered to the branches and, after ripening, do not crumble. At the same time, the taste of currants is pleasant, with a slight sourness. Suitable for food both fresh and for preservation.

Currant Ural beauty

Despite the fact that the variety is zoned for Western Siberia, it is successfully grown in the Urals, in the Moscow region and in other regions of Russia. The variety attracts gardeners with its high yield and large, sweet berries. The Ural beauty tolerates severe frosts well, and the medium-sized bush facilitates the process of caring for the plant.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out a weak resistance to some pests. You can fight them, and successfully. Subject to the recommended agricultural practices, the variety will delight you with regular and abundant harvests.

We have described for you only some of the modern varieties of currants. If you are interested in earlier breeding, which were cultivated in the USSR, see the table.

Belarusian sweet	Average	Black, large, weighing 1-1.2 g	High	2.5-3 kg / bush
Grape	Early	Black, large, weight 1.3 g	Excellent	3-6 kg / bush
Leningrad giant	Average	Black, with a thin skin, weighing 1.2-2.2 g	Good	3-5 kg ​​/ bush
Stakhanovka Altai	Average	Black, dull, do not crumble, weight 0.7-0.9 g	High	1.5-3 kg / bush
Chulkovskaya	Early	Red, small, weighing 0.4 g	Average	4-6 kg / bush
Sugar red	Early	Juicy, sweet, weighing up to 1 g	High	4 kg / bush
Versailles white	Average	Yellow, transparent, large, weight up to 1.5 g.	Average	3-4 kg / bush

Remember that you need to buy currant seedlings of any kind in nurseries. Buying at the market or from a "familiar gardener" is fraught with unpleasant consequences. The fact is that some pathogens and parasites of currants have an incubation period of 1-2 years. Outwardly, the seedling may look healthy, but after a while the disease will manifest itself. When buying planting material in nurseries, there is no such risk.

Currant planting rules

The yield of any kind of currant depends on the conditions in which it grows.The landing site must meet the following requirements:

• the site is flat, or a small slope (no more than 50);
• planting on hills or depressions is not recommended: in the first case, the plant will suffer from cold wind, in the second - from the accumulation of cold air;
• any soil, but their acidity is not lower than 4.5 pH;
• the depth of the groundwater is at least 1 m.

Having found a suitable place, proceed to the next stage. Remove all weeds, apply fertilizer to the soil according to the following scheme:

• manure or compost - a bucket per square meter;
• lime - 2-6 kg / m2 (dosage depends on the pH level);
• superphosphate - 500-700 g / 10 m2;
• potash salt - 200 g / 10 m2.

After fertilizing, dig up the soil onto the bayonet of the shovel. Remember that soil preparation should be done approximately 2 months before planting.

The size of the planting holes depends on the quality of the soil. The optimal values ​​are 40x40 cm, if the land is scarce in nutrients - do not be lazy and dig large holes. The currant will thank you with enhanced growth and high yields.

You can see the layout schemes in the table.

Single	1	1,8-2
Tape	0,6-0,8	2

The belt scheme has an advantage over the single one: already in the first years, the yield increases significantly. The disadvantage of this method is that fungi and viruses are actively developing in a thickened environment, which requires additional care. The choice of the currant planting scheme is up to you.

Plants can be planted in autumn, but the best survival rate is obtained with spring planting. The seedlings need to be prepared. How to do it?

Cuttings must be kept in water at a temperature of 460C for 13-15 minutes. The purpose of this procedure is to kill the currant kidney mite. Be careful about the water temperature, lower values ​​will not give the desired result, higher ones will ruin the cuttings.

Purchased seedlings need to be pruned, if this was not done in the nursery. Leave 3-4 buds on the branches, remove the rest. This activity stimulates the development of the bush in the first years of life. See the photo for an example, the branches to be removed are marked in red.

Now you can start planting currants. Make a soil mixture using the following recipe:

• a bucket of soil;
• humus bucket;
• 200 g of phosphate fertilizers;
• 40 g of potassium preparations.

Mix well and pour on the bottom of the planting hole. To protect the roots of currants from burns with fertilizers - make a small mound of clean earth on top of the mixture. As a result, you should have a mound at the bottom of the hole.

Now you can proceed directly to planting:

1. Pour a bucket of water into each well to form a liquid mud.
2. Place the seedlings. An important condition: they should be located at an angle, and the root collar is 8-10 cm below the soil surface. This planting stimulates the rapid development of basal shoots. We wrote about this at the beginning of the article. If your site has loamy soils, then the depth of the root collar should be no more than 5 cm.
3. Spread the roots, make sure that they do not bend upwards, this will worsen the survival rate.
4. Fill in the soil and compact it so that there are no voids around the roots. At this stage, it is important not to overdo it, so control yourself. Just tug lightly on the seedling: it should not be pulled out, but also not "sit" firmly in the ground.

Water the plant well for the first 5 days after planting. The norm is 3-5 liters per bush. If the weather is rainy, there is no need to water.

Outdoor currant care

Pay special attention to weed control, they must be removed regularly. For the development of beneficial soil microorganisms, loosening must be carried out. Do this carefully so as not to damage the roots. The depth of loosening at a distance of 30 cm from the bush is 4-6 cm, further 30 cm - up to 12 cm. This technique, in addition, will not allow weeds to multiply. In the early years, you can grow lettuce or dill between rows.

Don't forget about mulching. It will help to retain moisture, protect against weeds, and increase yields.Use humus, peat, foliage, or plastic wrap. The width of the mulched circle in the first years of the life of the currant is 50-70 cm, later - 1.25 m. The thickness of the mulch is 4-5 cm.

As for watering, it is necessary during dry periods, during the growth of the bush, and after harvesting. The norm is 30 l / m2. Remember, if the year is rainy, you do not need to water the currants.

Fertilizers and fertilizers for currants

Do you want to increase the yield of currants by 30%, or even 50%? This is possible if fertilizers and fertilizing are applied correctly. In the first year, if you planted the plant according to the rules, you do not need to fertilize the seedlings. Enough application of urea, in a concentration of 0.3% - this will improve the development of the seedling in the growth phase.

Starting from the second year of the currant's life, start fertilizing. Remember that in early summer, the plant requires nitrogen fertilization to stimulate leaf growth and increase ovary formation. Towards the end of summer, especially after harvest, when morphogenesis is most active, the currants need potash fertilizers. For drugs and their dosage, see the table.

1-3 years	Ammonium nitrate	100-100
	Superphosphate	200-300
	Potassium nitrate	100-150
4 years and older	Ammonium nitrate	200-400
	Superphosphate	300-600
	Potassium nitrate	150-300

Ammonium nitrate is a nitrogen fertilizer, superphosphate is a phosphorus fertilizer. This information will help you determine when to apply. These substances can be introduced both in dry form and in solutions; the method will not affect the effectiveness.

Important:

Try not to use potassium salts: currants react badly to them. For red currants, it is generally better to replace mineral potash fertilizers by adding wood ash in the same dose.

Organics can also be used as root feeding:

• slurry - dilute with water 5-6 times;
• bird droppings - diluted with water 10-12 times.

Not only dosage and timing affect the effectiveness of fertilizer use. The important thing is how they are entered. For example, if you just dig up the soil along with the preparations, they will remain in the top layer of the soil. Roots that are deeply located will not receive nutrients. Therefore, this method can be used with a single landing pattern.

Better results are obtained by the method that our grandfathers used. Dig circular holes along the projection of the bush. They should be narrow, but at least 25 cm deep. After applying top dressing, cover the holes with earth.

A good result when growing currants in the open field is given by foliar dressing, which is carried out by spraying. We recommend using one of two recipes:

1. 1.3 g of potassium permanganate and boric acid per bucket of water - spray the plants in the flowering phase.
2. 30 g of ammonium and 25 g of potassium nitrate, 100 g of superphosphate, 10 liters of water - for spraying bushes.

Top dressing is done in the early morning, it is desirable that the leaf is wet. You cannot hold such events at lunchtime: you can burn the foliage.

Mineral fertilizers are good, but don't forget about organics. The introduction of humus, peat, compost as a top dressing will not only provide the plant with the necessary substances, but also enrich the soil with beneficial bacteria. Such feeding should be carried out every two years, in late autumn.

Currant pruning

We already spoke about the technique partly at the beginning of the article, now in more detail. The purpose of pruning is sanitary and bush formation. The yield of the plant largely depends on how correctly the currant pruning was done. What do you need to pay attention to?

1. You have already pruned the branches when planting. Now you need to choose and leave two or three powerful root shoots every year, remove the rest. This will create a strong and productive shrub.
2. Cut the left branches to ¼ of the original length.
3. Cut branches that are more than 5 years old. It is easy to outstrip them: the tops of the shoots dry out, the growths are weak.
4. Prune diseased branches in time.

For red currants, the pruning technique is the same.The exception is on two-year-old shoots and older, the tops cannot be cut off.

How can currants be propagated

Have you bought a currant, got your first harvest and thought about how to propagate the bushes? Use a vegetative method, it is he who allows you to preserve the parental qualities of the plant.

1. Woody cuttings.
2. Green cuttings.
3. Green apical cuttings.
4. Layers.

Each method has its own nuances, we will tell you about them, and you choose the technique at your discretion.

Propagation by woody cuttings

The method impresses with its simplicity and worthy results. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology. Read carefully and memorize.

1. Select the bottom or middle part of the annual branch. The length of the harvested cutting should be 15-20 cm, thickness - 6 mm. The number of buds on the handle is 4-5 pcs. Material procurement time is the second half of September.
2. Place the cut material in a container with wet sand and place it in the basement. If possible, the cuttings can be kept under the snow, this method of wooding is preferable.
3. Treat the cuttings with root growth promoters before planting in spring. Use Kornevin - 5g / 5L or heteroauxin - 100-150 g per liter of water. Keep the cuttings in the solution for a day, while they should be 2/3 immersed in the liquid. The air temperature should not be lower than 230C.
4. Transplant the cuttings into potting soil. After about 12 days, seals will appear on the bottom, which signal that the cuttings can be planted in a permanent place in the open ground.
5. While the cuttings are in the pots, prepare the soil at the planting site. To do this, add 8 kg of compost, 40 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of wood ash for each square meter. Dig up and moisten the soil.
6. Cuttings should be planted in early spring at an angle of 450, leaving one bud on the surface. This planting contributes to the rapid growth of the root system. The distance between the cuttings in a row is 10 cm, the row spacing is 25 cm.
7. An important condition is abundant irrigation after planting in the amount of 30 liters of water per square meter.

A good result is obtained by planting cuttings under a film. To do this, spread the material over the garden bed, dig in the edges. The planting pattern with this method is 8x15 cm. To get rid of weeds that can grow under the film, sprinkle the aisles with earth in the summer.

With this method of propagation, the bush is obtained with one stem. To get several branches - pinch the top as soon as it grows 8 cm. You will get 2-3 shoots.

Propagation by green cuttings

One of the simple and reliable breeding methods, which is suitable for both a novice hobbyist and an experienced gardener. Cutting is carried out as soon as the desired shoots reach a length of 20 cm. This usually occurs by mid-summer, but the timing for each region is different. To have a clear idea of ​​the method - see the schematic image.

1. Select branches that are 2 years old with developed second-order shoots (1).
2. Cut the cuttings according to the scheme, the lower leaves can be removed.
3. Remember that there should be a small patch of 2-year-old wood on the bottom.
4. Plant in the ground (3), the distance between the cuttings is 5 cm, in the row spacing is 15 cm. The planting depth is 3-7 cm, but the longer the cutting, the greater the value.
5. Water abundantly, about 3-4 times at knocks. In case of heat - 5-7 times.

Further care of cuttings consists in timely weeding, loosening and fight against diseases.

An interesting way is used by some gardeners, we hasten to share it with you. The technology is the same, but the cuttings are grown not outdoors, but indoors under plastic wrap stretched over arcs. Gauze is pulled from above to protect the plant from sunburn. Before closing the bed, it is watered abundantly.

Now you can rest for 15 days.Watering the cuttings is carried out by means of condensation, and the increased air temperature contributes to the rapid rooting of the cuttings. A month after planting, remove the film and continue to grow young bushes in the usual way.

Propagation by green apical cuttings

The method is rather complicated; special equipment is required. To implement it, a greenhouse or greenhouse and a fogging installation are required. This technology is available to specialized gardens and nurseries, so let's talk about it briefly.

Cuttings are planted in a specially prepared substrate consisting of soil and peat in a 1: 1 ratio. Then, using the installation, a fog is created, the humidity of the air must be at least 90%. With this method, the cuttings take root after 2 weeks.

Reproduction by layering

The method is simple, it is often used. It is based on the ability of currants to "put down" roots from shoots. The technology is simple:

1. In early spring, bend annual shoots to the ground, fix them with wooden spears, as shown in the figure.
2. As soon as the shoots grow 10 cm, make the first hilling 4 cm thick. The soil must be moist.
3. After 20 days, repeat the hilling, the layer thickness is 10 cm.
4. In the fall, cut off the shoot from the base of the bush, select the strongest shoots and transplant to a permanent place. Do not touch weak shoots, let them grow.

The survival rate of cuttings is high, you can easily propagate the variety you like.

Diseases and pests of currants

Even modern varieties of currants of different types can be damaged by diseases or diseases.

See tables for signs and treatments.

Currant pests

Currant kidney mite	The kidneys enlarge, become rounded. In the spring they are deformed, take the form of a head of cabbage. Leaves and inflorescences are not formed.	1. Wood cuttings are disinfected with hot water (read the article), green cuttings with black tea. 2. Before flowering treatment of buds with karbofos (30g / 10 l of water). 3. Spraying the bushes with garlic infusion (100 g / 10 l). 4. To destroy heavily affected bushes.
Spider mite	Damages foliage, which first brightens, then turns brown and falls	Treatment, as in the case of a currant mite. Prevention - timely cleaning of fallen leaves
Gooseberry shoot aphid	The leaves on the tops of the branches curl, the young shoots are curved.	Spraying with nitrafen (300g / 10 l). Infusion of tobacco 400 g / 10 l.
Willow shield	Larvae appear and firmly attach to the bark. As a result, the branches weaken and can dry out.	Nitrafen treatment 300 g / 10 l.
Leafy currant gall midge	The parasite larvae eat the leaves. Damages appear, the leaves turn brown and dry.	Prevention: mulching with peat and autumn digging of the soil. Treatment: 0.3% karbofos emulsion.
Stem currant gall midge	The parasite larvae destroy branches and young shoots.	The measures are the same as for leaf gall midge. Re-processing after harvest is needed.
Currant kidney moth	The caterpillars of the parasite are red or green in color, the head is black. They bite into the buds of currants and eat them away from the inside.	Timely cutting of dry branches and stumps, followed by burning. Treatment of the bush with a nitrafen solution (300 g / 10 l).
Gooseberry moth	Caterpillars of the butterfly are dark green in color, the head is black. They parasitize the fruits of black currant.	Hilling currants in the fall with a layer of soil up to 10 cm. Spraying with infusions of wormwood or tobacco.

Currant diseases and their treatment

Powdery mildew	A light white bloom appears on the shoots and fruits. Further, it thickens, changes color to brown. Leaves and shoots stop growing and die.	Spraying before flowering with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g / 10 l) After flowering, 4-fold treatment of the bushes with a solution of soda ash and soap (50 g / 10 l each). In case of severe damage, spraying with colloidal sulfur 1% (50 g / 10 l).
Terry black currant	Leaves lengthen, become asymmetrical, the number of veins decreases. The inflorescences become purple in color. The bushes are thickened.	Purchase planting material from nurseries. Destroy diseased bushes. There are no effective control measures.
Anthracnose	Yellow spots appear on the leaves and shoots, which change color to brown. Over time, the lesions grow and merge. The leaves take on the appearance of burnt and fall off. Brown bumps may appear on the berries.	Prevention: timely collection and destruction of fallen leaves. Treatment of planting material with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g / 10 l). For treatment, spray the bush with Bordeaux liquid 1%. Double processing: before flowering and after harvesting.

Red currants are not affected by the described pests and are less sick. But, if suddenly a disease has arisen, the control measures are the same.

Conclusion

Now you know not only how to plant currants, but also the basics of proper care for a high yield.

Note that many modern varieties may have slightly different requirements for agricultural technology, so check the nuances of care when buying seedlings.

When writing the article, the following literature was used:

1. Shaumyan K.V., Kolesnikov E.V. 'Yagodniki' - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1981 - p. 64.
2. Glebova E.I., Dankov V.V., Skripchenko M.M. 'Berry Garden' - Leningrad: Lenizdat, 1990 - p. 205

If you still have any questions - ask in the comments, we will answer them. Did you like the article? Share it with your friends on social networks.

Great yield of black currants thanks to proper planting and care

Black currant is one of the favorite berries of gardeners. The secret of popularity: in the natural richness of vitamins and the undemanding culture of the growing conditions. Caring for black currants has its own characteristics, but it will not cause any particular difficulties if you choose and prepare a place for planting correctly, as well as cut and process the crop from parasites and fungal diseases in time.

Currant - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before sap flow begins and the buds bloom, while the soil may not have time to warm up enough and the plant will die.

A sunny place, protected from the wind with a well-drained non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5), is chosen for the currants. Fertile light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the earth, add up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m.

Deacidification of land for planting currants with dolomite flour

Propagate currants using cuttings or dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. Cultivation of black currants will be successful if you choose biennial seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long, they take root best. Consider how the planting of currants is carried out in stages.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, the rhizomes of the weeds are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the site is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug to a depth of 40 cm.The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planting in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the pit is covered with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

Planting black currant

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This promotes the growth of basal buds and the further development of a powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, then the bush will be formed with a single stem.

Planting scheme for currant seedlings

Planting currants ends with watering 5 liters per hole and another 5 liters on a circular hole around it. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil: up to 8 cm in depth - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

After completing the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. The cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, sprinkled with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with a film or plastic container for rooting and engraftment. Pruning stimulates vigorous plant growth.

Scheme of cutting currant seedlings after planting

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant black currants in the summer. Most often this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This planting is also called deposition or simply breeding. It is performed after the completion of fruiting: for early varieties - in July, and for late varieties - in mid and late August.

Black currant: growing and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to provide proper care for black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currants

Before the appearance of buds, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut to a healthy stem, the wounds are covered with garden var. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After feeding, the soil is dug up and watered.

Sanitary currant pruning

At the time of the formation of the ovary until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. This is done in the evening using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius) at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water ingress on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

Watering a young currant bush in spring

To improve the moisture resistance of the soil, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspapers. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Summer currant care

In the first half of June, organic feeding should be carried out: up to 15 kg of humus per 1 bush, or liquid feeding (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water a week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of berries, and is done every 5 days.

Currant care in June also includes pinching the young stems of the tops by 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of the pinching is postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During the ripening of the fruits, foliar dressing is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of ferrous sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately, and then mix together in a 10 L bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

Spraying and caring for currants in summer

After fertilizing or watering, it is recommended to remove weeds and gently loosen the soil up to 5 cm so as not to touch the root system of the plant located at a depth of 30 cm.The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 cm.

Harvesting berries must be done by the piece, and not plucked in a bunch. This is less likely to damage the plant. Watering and fertilization is completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Care for currant bushes in autumn

After completing the harvest, starting from mid-August and throughout September, watering is carried out once a week, with loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, organic matter (4-6 kg of poultry droppings) must be introduced, or fed with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when fertilizing, add 200 g of wood ash. After that, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting for the next year.

Feeding currant bushes with organic matter

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots from different years of life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

With proper care, currants rarely get sick, there are such diseases: terry, anthracnose, gray rot, powdery mildew. Of the parasites, the kidney and spider mites, fruit sawfly, glass, and moth are dangerous for her.

Moth caterpillars on currant leaf

To protect the plant from diseases, preventive measures are used. In the spring, before the buds awaken, the bushes are watered with hot water at a temperature of plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment against pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of the bushes in order to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

Also, until the spring swelling of the buds, the currants and the soil under it are treated every 10 days. To do this, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% solution of Nitrafen or Karbofos. These drugs are also used when signs of diseases or parasites are detected, in which case caring for black currants in summer includes spraying 3 weeks before picking berries. This will help protect the crop from septoria, brown spot, glassfly and aphids.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: ​​Alirin-B, Gamair, Prognoz, Topaz, Glycoladin - from rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of a kidney mite on currants in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of black currants includes preparing for winter. The soil under the bushes is weeded and the fallen leaves are removed.

Scheme of strapping a currant bush for the winter

After the onset of the first frost, the bush is pulled together in a spiral upward with a rope, at the top clamping it with a clothespin. The ground is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation falls at the base of the bush, a snow pillow 10 cm high is made, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Outcome

Growing currants on the site will only bring pleasure, since the culture is not demanding and bears fruit perfectly. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant so that you always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then the black currant, which is taken care of according to all the rules, will thank you with a magnificent harvest and a large berry.

Black currant is the most common berry in the gardens and vegetable gardens of compatriots. It is a perennial shrub from the gooseberry family. The berry is appreciated for its taste, beneficial properties and ease of self-cultivation.

Planting and caring for black currants in the open field it is not difficult, since the shrub grows up to 1.5 m in height, and yields a crop already in the second year after planting. Breeders have bred many varieties of shrubs that differ in taste, shape, size of fruits and brushes, and ripening time.

Black currant is resistant to fungal diseases and low temperatures, unpretentious to growing conditions. Fruit ripening begins in June and lasts until the end of July.

Types and varieties of black currant

Gardeners give the greatest preference to varieties of currants, which ripen early and have large berries. The most common varieties include:

Little Prince

- early maturing species, bears fruit abundantly and regularly. The shrub does not reach high sizes, which is convenient for harvesting. Fruits on tassels are densely arranged, ripen at the same time, which makes them easier to pick. The berries are bright black, juicy, with a thin skin and a pleasant sweet and sour taste. This variety is resistant to severe frosts, long droughts and various diseases.

Bagheera

Is a late-ripening sweet berry with a bountiful harvest. The fruits are evenly spaced on the tassels and are of the same size. The berries have a thin, firm skin and a pronounced sweet taste. The variety is frost-resistant, but, despite this, shoots can freeze through if frost and thaw often alternate during the wintering period. The species is resistant to terry and anthracnose diseases, but can be infected with powdery mildew.

In addition, there are other subgroups of numerous varieties, where they distinguish:

• large-fruited varieties include the following varieties: Krasa Lvova, Chereshnevaya, Dobrynya, Comfort, Sanuta and others;
• varieties of early ripe currants: Yarinka, Overture, Golubichka, Dikovinka, Exotic, Dachnitsa, Sibylla and others;
• dessert varieties include: Maria, Perun, Centaur, Venus, Slastena and others;
• the sweetest varieties are: Pearl, Raisin, Black Boomer, Legend, Lazy.

There are other types of berries - these are red and white currants... They differ in color and are considered one culture. Red currant has become known in Russia since the 15th century, white - at the beginning of the last century.

They differ not only in taste, but also in useful properties. Bushes of these species are unpretentious in growth and care, resistant to diseases and damage. They can bear fruit for 15-20 years without a transplant.

Currant care in spring

In the spring, gardeners resume caring for their garden, including currants - they prepare them for summer fruiting. Question, how to care for currants, worries all summer residents.

Here pruning of the bush is very relevant, when dry branches, old ones are removed, the general density of the bush is thinned out. The essence of the presented process is to free up space for annual shoots and enhance the growth of basal cuttings.

Pruning in spring leads not only to the formation of a bush, but also guarantees a high yield. In currants, branches of three to four years of age bear fruit. If they are older, there will be no harvest, and cutting off old branches leads to the growth of new shoots that bear fruit.

Pruning is also necessary for the bush as a sanitary treatment, when sick, insect-infected branches are cut out.

If the currant bush is young, it is necessary to shorten the shoots to increase its bushiness. To do this, it is recommended to leave 2-3 buds on each shoot, then new branches will grow by the fall.

Every year, it is necessary to remove zero shoots from the bush, leaving 4-5 strong branches, and pinch the tops, leaving only a few buds. This is how the fruits are formed - these are fruit twigs on old shoots.

Pruning currants in spring, video:

Feeding currants

After a long winter, the plants become weak by spring and, if the currant grows in one place for a long time, it needs feeding.

After all, the shrub has the ability to take all the most useful from the ground, therefore feeding currants in spring promotes a rich harvest in summer.

Top dressing of bushes is carried out in compliance with the following principles:

1. If the plant is only a year old, then it is enough to apply nitrogen fertilizers: 15 g of urea, 15 g of ammonium nitrate and 37 g of calcium nitrate per bush.
2. The currant bush, which is several years old, will be helped by organic fertilizers. In this case, it is necessary to dilute manure and 2 teaspoons of urea in a bucket of water. The whole mixture is thoroughly stirred and 2 liters of the resulting composition are added to each bush. At the end of the work, it is recommended to water the bush well with water.
3. The second feeding is carried out two weeks later, when the berries begin to set.Here you should pour humus under the currant bushes with the addition of 2 teaspoons of potassium sulfate.
4. Then, after another 2 weeks, the third feeding is carried out: spraying with a urea solution, where 2 teaspoons of the composition are taken for 10 liters of water.
5. The last feeding of currants is carried out in the fall so that it will survive the long frosty winter. For the last feeding, a mixture of superphosphate and potassium sulfate is taken, 6 teaspoons per 30 liters of water. The resulting composition must be watered under the bush, and then covered with humus and wood ash.

The presented feeding rules will help you enjoy a delicious and abundant harvest of berries every year.

Spring treatment from diseases and pests

Currants must be processed in the spring from pests and diseases. The most common currant diseases are powdery mildew, which affects leaves and shoots, rust, anthracnose fungus, terry (viral disease).

Powdery mildew manifests itself as a white powdery bloom and it is necessary to fight it by destroying these areas, and then treating it with a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate or a solution of foundation using 15 g of the composition per 10 liters of water.

Regular treatment with a Bordeaux mixture or a solution of wood ash will help get rid of the anthracnose fungus. For the prevention of diseases, it is necessary to carry out the treatment as soon as the snow melted.

The most famous pests are:

• Leaf sawfly that destroys leaves. Special solutions of plants that contain phytonicides help from it: garlic, wormwood, tomatoes, horseradish, nightshade.
• Leafy gall aphid - manifested by burgundy swellings on the surface of the leaves. Here it is recommended to treat it with tar soap or garlic infusion, and the biological product Fitoverm will also help.
• Shoot aphid - leads to leaf curling. For preventive purposes, in the spring, before the buds swell, in order to destroy the aphid eggs, it is necessary to treat the shrub with an 8% nitrafen solution. Chlorophos with the addition of karbofos helps well - 2 g of solution per 10 liters of water.
• Spider mite, due to which the leaves turn yellow and dry. It appears in dry years, therefore, as a preventive measure, frequent and abundant watering of the bush is required. When a tick appears, the shrub can be treated with a solution of karbofos, colloidal sulfur and phosphamide.
• A kidney mite that contributes to the death of the kidneys. To prevent damage to the entire shrub, it is necessary to remove already affected shoots and buds, which should then be burned in a place safe for their area. After the presented actions, it is necessary to treat the bush with a solution of colloidal sulfur, taken in a proportion of 10 g of a component per 10 liters of water.
• The kidney moth is a kidney-eating insect. You can destroy it with a 0.1% solution of Aktara or an infusion of dry mustard, tansy, celandine and tomato tops, taken in equal proportions (take 1 kg of the mixture for 10 liters of warm water).

Of the popular methods of pest control, the most economical and effective is the treatment of the currant bush with boiling water. This treatment will help not only get rid of pests and diseases, but also increase the plant's immunity.

You can start the presented treatment method immediately after winter, while the buds have not yet begun to swell. Boiling water should be poured into a container and poured through a strainer onto currant branches from a distance of 10 cm.

The water for processing must be at least 60 degrees Celsius, but not more than 80 degrees, otherwise a burn will occur, and a low temperature will not bring a positive result.

It is also important to clean and burn leaves and debris left over from the fall - pests can live in them. Then you should dig up the aisles and around the bushes - this will strike a blow to the accumulation of larvae, spores and pest nests.

Planting currants

It is best to plant black currants in the fall, but if for some reason this did not work out, then the process can be postponed to spring. Planting currants in spring carried out as soon as the snow melted.

First you need to decide on the planting site, because currants love the sun and areas protected from the wind.

The soil should be fertile and not swampy, the presence of high groundwater is unacceptable - in this case, the roots may die from excess moisture.

For planting, dig a hole 50 cm wide and 40 cm deep, put organic fertilizers on the bottom, premixed with the soil. Before planting the seedling, 10 liters of water should be poured into the pit and only after that the shrub should be placed in the pit without damaging the root system.

Now you should cover the roots with earth and water again. In this case, the root collar deepens by no more than 5 cm. During the summer, the seedling must be weeded and watered.

Reproduction of black currant

An important question, how currants reproduce, worries all gardeners. There are 3 ways to propagate black currant: cuttings, dividing the bush and layering.

Cuttings

Reproduction of currants by cuttings in spring begins with the preparation of planting material. Cuttings are taken from the main root shoots or annual branches that come from the bush.

Shoots are cut with a length of 15-20 cm, while you should adhere to the rule that the optimal diameter for the presented method of reproduction is at least 7 mm.

The cut is made with a pruner 1.5 cm above the bud, because the root system will subsequently develop from it. For breeding, a trench with a depth of one shovel bayonet is being prepared in the fall. Compost and manure are laid in it, and in the spring, as the snow melts, when there is still a lot of moisture in the ground, cuttings are planted.

It is recommended to plant the cuttings at a distance of 10-15 cm, leaving passages of 40 cm, so that it is more convenient to take care of it. At the end, the soil surface should be covered with peat or humus to retain moisture. By autumn, the cuttings should form into young bushes, and then they can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Autumn planting of black currant cuttings, video:

Layers

Reproduction by the presented method is carried out in the spring by dropping young two-three-year-old cuttings into shallow dug grooves. A mixture of compost, humus and peat should be placed on the bottom of them, and the layering should be fixed with metal or wooden pins and sprinkled with earth.

Pay attention to this material - Thuja: planting and care in the open field.

By the fall, the cuttings will release roots, they can be separated from the mother bush and planted in a permanent place.

Dividing the bush

Here it is required to expose the shrub to digging up the root system. This is done carefully so as not to damage the roots. Also, several shoots are carefully separated by hand and planted in an adjacent, pre-prepared pit, in accordance with all the basic rules for planting seedlings.

Cultivation of currants is common in many countries due to its unpretentiousness and endurance. It can be grown in any climatic conditions by choosing the right variety.

Black currant bears fruit every year, delighting gardeners with a bountiful harvest. And its large sweet berry is recognized as the most useful in the world.

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