Planting cucumbers in August in open ground in the south

A common cucumber seedling is a garden cult grown according to all the rules. And further planting and caring for cucumbers in the open field is carried out on specific dates set for the season, as a rule, according to the lunar calendar.

Planting dates with seeds and seedlings

It is reasonable to plant sprouted seeds in the ground on a specific date. Moreover, for each region, the days for planting are different.

Let's imagine like this:

Regions	Landing features	Timing	Precautions
Central region, including Moscow and the region.	It is advisable to distribute into the soil under improvised coverings from a garden cloth or under cellophane	Ideal for the film: from May 17. For open ground: from late May to 4 June	The middle strip is distinguished by intermediate frosts, so the flesh needs to take care of the young seedlings on June 15, protecting the sprouts at night
Northwest. Leningrad and neighboring regions	You can't leave seeds even without an impromptu greenhouse.	Primary sowing (indoors): last days of April - early May. We plant in a greenhouse or greenhouse from 20 to 24 May	We leave young cucumbers of any kind under protection until mid-June
Middle Ural	Severe frosts until June 20	It is not recommended to place seedlings in open ground. From the third week of May can only be planted in stationary greenhouses	Unheated earth is spilled in advance with warm water before disembarking
Ural	Organic fertilizers required	Early varieties: May 20, June 1-4. End date: mid-June (15.16)	Any early variety needs to be fed. Rotten manure in a greenhouse or greenhouse will not be superfluous
Southern regions of the country	Seeds are placed boldly in the ground without fear	It is optimal to start on April 15th. Finish - before May Day	It is in seedlings (homemade), the seeds are best prepared from the end of March

Planting cucumbers in the ground according to the lunar calendar (2017) is also important:

March	1, 6, 7, 29, 30, 31 are favorable. 4 and 5 - less favorable
April	9, 10, 27, 28 - favorable, 1, 2 - less favorable
May	only 26 and 27 numbers
June	only 8 and 9 numbers

Scheme of planting cucumbers in open ground

It is advisable to observe some rules in the arrangement of cucumber seedlings. For example:

1. Up to 45 roots of mixed cucumber seedlings are planted on ten square meters of soil. Let's say that half are only hybrid varieties, and the other half are medium-sized.
   The hybrid species (rather tall) is planted widely, in rows. The distance between the roots is up to 45 centimeters. And not large ones are already more often - up to 35 centimeters. The main thing is that the leaves of the plants do not create shading.
2. Tape option:

   Without a mesh support structure, you cannot set the direction for growth. For cucumbers in the open field, they came up with the following:

3. Nests. Convenient and even selective method. Seeds are placed in holes in several pieces. The first shoots make themselves felt: some will be much stronger.So they are left for care and watering. The nests or holes look like this:

It's important to know! Now it is for the open planting method that there are certain cucumber seeds. It is desirable to acquire them.

Sowing depth

Seedless growing involves the simplest preparation of a cucumber seed. It is allowed to use both a dry look and a pre-soaked one. Of course, it is better to take seeds from seedbed preparation.

The sowing depth in open beds is also essential. But do not delude yourself, the seed will give results only in warm soil. The reference point is the temperature from plus 15 and above.

But that's not all, because there are several ways to grow a horticultural crop, and for each of them the sowing depth is individual.

For example, for the trellis method (holes dug in a row), the depth is no more than two centimeters.

The composition (type) of the soil plays a role. In ordinary chernozem, 2-3 centimeters of sowing is enough. And on light soil (sandy, sandy loam) it is better to sow a couple of centimeters deeper.

Growing methods

We list the options specifically for the open area:

1. Tapestry. Supports for the direction of growth are usually made from scrap materials. Even even garden branches, clotheslines and other devices are used (plastic nets can be adapted). The task is simple - to save space, make it easier to care for the plant. If you carry out the foundation correctly, then not a single fruit will "hide" during the collection period. What's even better is the growth of each root. Elongated to their full length, the shoots receive more light and bear fruit longer.

2. No garter. The laziest option. But if space permits, you can leave branches or shoots from each root. Of course, a whole cucumber field will form. But the plants will not be constrained.

3. Under the film. More precisely, it is possible to achieve a high-quality crop both under film and on film.

The film does not allow the weeds to straighten out - the method does not require weeding. And with watering it is much easier: moisture remains inside a homemade mini-greenhouse. Cucumbers do not loosen. But the branches are freely distributed in a natural way, no garters are required.

Under the film - this is already a well-established method. The principle of an impromptu greenhouse:

It is very convenient if the early variety is already in the ground, and frosts at night harm the young plants. In the future, an adult plant can be easily freed from the film and arcs if it becomes crowded.

About growing and caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse is shown in the article: growing cucumbers in a greenhouse.

Read the cons of growing cucumbers in a barrel here.

Plant care

Cucumber is a culture that is not famous for its whims, but it needs constant proper care:

• pinching;
• weeding;
• thorough watering;
• top dressing;
• garter.

Stepping

When plants are actively developing, pinching is carried out. He also has such a terminology - pinching. There are two types of seeds: varietal and non-varietal. And for them, this procedure has some differences.

The variety type has all the data of the variety indicated on the package.

Non-varietal completely or partially lost varietal characteristics. Usually these are seeds from last season, borrowed from a friend or bought by weight.

Professional cultivation of cucumbers in the open field is the pinching of seeds of the first type. It is carried out according to the following principle: after 5-6 leaves, the main stem must be pinched. So the female flowers and many lateral processes are better formed.

The principle of such a procedure for seeds of the second type: from the initial -4 leaves, developing lateral shoots and sets are eliminated. This makes the root network stronger.

For hybrid seeds, such measures are not needed. Their female flowers are formed independently.

High-quality watering

It is extremely important for such crops, because they are 95% water. During the period of intensive development of cucumbers (mid-June - end of August), even an insignificant drying out of the soil can negatively affect the taste of the fruit.And it will be impossible to change it.

Only warm water is used for irrigation. Since the cold one stops the development of the bushes, it creates conditions for the appearance of gray rot.

For irrigation, you can use well or borehole water, the temperature of which has increased during the day under the influence of the sun. Running water is sure to settle.

Watering intensity: every 2-3 days. You need 6-10 liters per square meter of the garden. Watering is done in the evening. This keeps moisture in the soil longer.

The ground under the cucumber bush is mulched. Cut grass is best suited here. This method prevents the growth of weeds. And there is no need for loosening and weeding the beds.

If such an operation is not carried out, then the soil will quickly compact, and air will not flow to the root network. Then you will have to carry out aeration to a shallow depth.

Here you will need a garden pitchfork or an aerator. And traditional loosening only injures delicate roots.

Top dressing

Only sunny weather is suitable for this operation. On cloudy days, crops grow more slowly, and their roots absorb useful elements much worse.

Top dressing has tons of recipes, here are the most popular ones:

On ash

If ash is taken from heat sources (stove, barbecue, fireplace, etc.), then first it is sieved through a sieve with large cells. Coal and debris are sent to the afterburner.

Proportions:

• ash: 5 l (half a bucket),
• chicken droppings: 500 grams,
• developmental stimulants (Agat - 25K or Baikal EM-1).

By leaps and bounds

Proportions:

• dry yeast: 5 grams,
• sugar: 1 table. a spoon,
• warm water (50-60 C): 10 l.

Yeast and sugar are diluted in water. It takes 2-3 hours to infuse. The yeast starts to work. For fertilization, the tincture is diluted with water in the parameters 1: 5.

Mineral based

This feeding is carried out a week after the emergence of seedlings.

Proportions:

• water: 10 l,
• chicken droppings: 1 glass
• nitrophoska: 1 table. a spoon.

4-5 liters of this product are consumed per square meter of soil.

This feeding is repeated twice until the fruit ovaries appear. And the last time it is carried out already during the development and ripening of fruits.

Final mineral dressing proportions:

• potassium sulfate: 1 teaspoon
• mullein: 500 grams,
• water: 10 l.

These dressings are very common among gardeners. Today, there are many innovative methods for effective feeding. For example, special substrates "Ideal", "Breadwinner" and similar preparations.

It is required to introduce fertilizers very carefully. They should not end up on the leaves.

Protection of cucumbers from ailments and pests

Cucumber culture, like many fruitful vegetable crops, needs protection from pests and dangerous ailments.

And here the necessary preventive measures are as follows:

1. Continuous use of quality seeds that have undergone mandatory processing.
2. Planting only in well-warmed soil.
3. Use of quality breeding varieties. They are highly resistant to common diseases and pests.
4. Elimination of various plant debris from the beds. After all, pathogens of rather dangerous ailments are actively developing in it.
5. Obligatory regular weeding. In the course of it, weeds are removed. They seriously interfere with the growth of bushes and can transmit various infections.
6. Compliance with the criteria for crop rotation. Do not plant the same crops in the same place every season. Diseased plants are subject to elimination and burning.

It is not difficult to follow the necessary preventive actions. Reliable seeds. Competent landing. Timely watering of cucumbers. All of these operations are not intricate or complex.

Second landing of the season

With late varieties, it is possible to plant cucumbers in August in open ground, but only in suitable climatic zones.

Seeds for secondary planting in season are artificially bred species.

To get the result, you need:

1. Create a supportive atmosphere.
2. Prepare the soil itself.
3. Be sure to choose late varieties.

The care is as follows:

1. Watering strictly to the root.
2. Leaving only in the morning.
3. Top dressing and watering no more than once a week.

The last date for planting cucumbers in open ground is the beginning of August. Yes, even at this time it is possible to collect a good harvest before the frost, performing professional care of the garden culture.

In which month cucumbers are planted for seedlings, it is described in the article: when to plant cucumbers for seedlings.

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Video: CUCUMBERS IN OPEN GROUND! HUGE HARVEST! CARE TIPS!

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Posted April 26, 2016

Views: 3116

   It is usually customary to plant cucumbers in the ground as soon as the ground warms up more than 10 degrees. Most often this time is from mid-May to early June. But it happens that the cucumbers sown in May - June, by the middle of summer have already fizzled out and have ceased to bear fruit. Do not despair, today we will tell you the secrets of how to plant cucumbers in late summer (July - August), start over the cucumber crop and get a good harvest in the garden. You just need to follow some rules.

Unpretentious and fruitful. Choosing cucumber seeds for late sowing.

For July or even August sowing, you need to choose late self-pollinated hybrids that are resistant to minor temperature changes, tolerate a lack of sun and are adapted to adverse conditions. They are also good because their yield is higher.

Preference should be given not to varieties, but to hybrids, because they suffer less from pests and diseases. For example, such as Garland, Palekh, Courage, Maisky, Moscow, Surprise.

There are those that better withstand the cold: Trump card, Buyan, Saltan, Maryina Roshcha, Virenta, Ant, Grasshopper. For 3 months they uninterruptedly tie fruits on many side shoots.

Hardened and tough. Seed preparation for late sowing.

The seeds must be hardened so that the plants in the future become hardy and can resist the vagaries of the weather. Before sowing, the seeds are wrapped in damp gauze and placed in the coolest compartment of the refrigerator for 2 days, where it is not higher than 1-2 ° C.

But this is not enough. It makes sense to soak them for 10-12 hours in fertilizer with microelements and bioactive substances, dissolved in rainwater. This will also increase the resistance of the plants. For example, fit Uniflor Micro, in which there are 21 trace elements and a lot of magnesium, which is necessary for the formation of chlorophyll and is especially useful in the second half of summer. The seeds should only hatch, but not germinate.

Late cucumbers must be sown in the greenhouse.. And it is better in one row, so that they have enough light, and it would be easier for us to collect fruits, which in no case should outgrow.

Care for late cucumbers.

Watered and fed.

Late-sown cucumbers are watered early in the morning. While it is warm, they do this, as usual, at first spending 4 liters, and after flowering, 9-10 liters per 1 m2 every 2-3 days. But with the onset of coolness, the roots absorb water and food more slowly. Therefore, watering is reduced so that there is no rot. Initially, up to 1 time per week, and in September-October - up to 1 time per 2 weeks, spending up to 8-9 liters of water per 1 m2.

Every week, long before the cold weather, cucumbers are generously fed under the root and leaves, so that they meet the impending stress strong and healthy. For example, an infusion of herbs (dandelion, comfrey, nettle), diluted 10 times with water, or a complex fertilizer.

Insulated and processed.

Plants are mulched with a thick (8-10 cm) layer of rotted compost, which not only insulates the old cucumber roots, but also encourages the lashes to give new ones faster.

If the weather forecast promises a cold snap, cucumbers are sprayed with anti-stress drugs.Dilute 1 ml epina-extra (4 ampoules of 0.25 ml) in 5 liters of water and the resulting solution is treated with plants. The healing liquid is stored for 2 days, but it is better when it is prepared just before use.

This solution is also used for the sake of prophylaxis, when the plant has 3-4 true leaves, and the second time during the mass formation of buds. Such treatment increases yields by 10-15% and accelerates the appearance of ovaries, which is especially important at the end of the season.

Healthy and protected.

Due to a cold snap, cucumbers can suffer from putrefactive fungi. If the root collar of the stem turns brown, the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and wither, and the ovaries die off, you can pour the cucumbers under the root with warm low-fat milk mixed in half with water. Spend 1 liter of "drink" for 8 plants.

In a film greenhouse, cucumbers are annoyed by drops of condensation. It is formed due to the large difference between external and internal temperatures. Condensation provokes not only rot (white and gray), but also powdery mildew.

To reduce dampness, cucumbers are watered early in the morning at the root, trying not to get on the plants. In addition, immediately after watering, they are additionally covered with spunbond or other non-woven fabric and do not remove it until the air warms up well.

In a glazed greenhouse, there is less condensation, because the morning autumn temperature in it differs from the outside not so much.

Trichodermine, which contains spores of a fungus that acts as an antibiotic, is saved from powdery mildew. The drug is diluted according to the instructions and the leaves are sprayed on both sides.

Small secrets of a big harvest.

Lateral shoots of late cucumbers are pinched onto one leaf and one fruit when the main stem grows to 50 cm. Poor-quality ovaries are also removed, as well as yellowed leaves, especially those that were lying on the ground.

In order for the cucumbers to have enough ovaries, the seeds are heated for a week at 25-28 ° C before sowing after two days of quenching in the refrigerator. Then they sprout together, begin to bear fruit earlier and have very few barren flowers.

Fruits 5-7 cm in size must be removed immediately and make sure that there are no more than 10-12 of them on one plant. Late-sown cucumbers can quickly die from overload. And if they survive, the harvest will be much smaller.

When collecting late cucumbers, the stems cannot be injured, therefore, the lashes creeping along the ground do not turn over and do not shift.

Observing all the above technologies and techniques, you can stretch the appearance of fresh cucumbers until late autumn or even until the winter holidays. Therefore, late boarding is very beneficial.

You have to take care of cucumbers growing in a greenhouse and in the open air in different ways. How to properly grow this crop indoors and outdoors, read on this page.

Care for cucumbers in the greenhouse and outdoors is different. In protected soil, the crop has increased requirements for care and maintenance, here they are much more affected by pests and diseases.

Care for cucumbers in the greenhouse and in the open field, what is the difference

The main differences are as follows.

1. In the greenhouse, as a rule, long-leaved weakly branching varieties are grown. Neither bush cucumbers nor highly branching cucumbers are suitable for indoor use. In the open field, you can grow any varieties and hybrids intended for such cultivation.
2. You can plant cucumbers in the greenhouse for an early (May-June) and late (September-October) harvest. In the open field, cucumbers are grown only in summer, neither early nor late greens can be obtained here.
3. Indoors, cucumbers lead to one stem. On the street they are not pinched, allowing them to curl in all directions.
4. In the greenhouse, it is necessary to monitor the humidity. In the open air, it cannot be significantly influenced.
5. In protected ground, it is advisable to plant cucumbers alone in order to avoid the occurrence of common diseases with other greenhouse crops.On the street, compatible crops are often planted with cucumbers, whose leafy secretions prevent the disease from affecting cucumbers (onions, garlic), or shade the plantings (corn).
6. Indoors, weeds are trimmed, they cannot be weeded, since the root system of cucumbers can be damaged. In the open field, overgrown plants themselves will drown out any, even the most hardy weeds, so the borage is, as a rule, free of weeds.
7. Greenhouse cucumbers are much more likely to be affected by diseases than street ones.
8. In the open field, the crop has practically no pests, while in the greenhouse it is often damaged by omnivorous pests.

In addition, the care requirements of varieties and hybrids are somewhat different. Hybrids are more demanding for fertilizing and watering than conventional varieties.

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

Cucumbers are planted in the greenhouse at the earliest possible date, as soon as the ground warms up to 17 ° C to a depth of 20-25 cm. The second planting date is early August, when the cucumbers are already leaving the street. With late summer sowing, the crop is harvested at the end of September.

For greenhouses, either parthenocarpics or self-pollinated cucumbers are suitable. They do not need bees to tie greens.

1. Self-pollinated there are practically no male flowers. The pollen is carried by the wind. It can be transferred from the stamens to the pistil of the same flower, or it can get to another flower both on the mother plant and on any other. In any case, pollination occurs and an ovary is formed.
2. Parthenocarpics are tied without pollination at all. In fruits, they have no seeds or are in their infancy.

The main thing when caring for greenhouse cucumbers is watering, feeding and air humidity.

Sowing dates for greenhouse cucumbers

Greenhouse cucumbers are usually planted in 2 terms:

• in the spring for early production;
• towards the end of summer for the fall harvest.

The exact time depends on the weather and region. In the south, seeds are sown in the greenhouse in mid-late April, in the north - in the second decade of May. To obtain autumn greens in the north and in the middle lane, cucumbers are planted in a greenhouse in the second decade of July.

Fresh cucumbers can be picked in September. In the south, the planting period is mid-late August, the zelents will appear in October. But late summer planting is too risky, especially when grown in unheated greenhouses. In the event of a cold, rainy autumn, the risk of being left without a crop is very high.

No matter how long greenhouse cucumbers are grown, they always need warm soil. Therefore, in the greenhouse, they arrange a manure, in extreme cases, a compost bed. These components are biofuels, generate a lot of heat, which contributes to the normal development of plants even in very cold weather.

Seeds are sown only in warm soil, otherwise they will not sprout. Soil temperature at a depth of 15-20 cm should be at least 17 ° C. To speed up its warming up in the spring, it is poured with boiling water 2-3 times every other day.

Greenhouse neighbors

Most often, dachas have 2-3-bed greenhouses in which crops are grown together. To cultivate cucumbers together with other greenhouse crops, the care requirements of these crops must be taken into account.

Cucumbers require high air humidity, shading from direct sun and a desirable air temperature of 23-28 ° C.

1. Cucumbers with tomatoes... Incompatible neighborhood. Although the crops tolerate each other well, they have completely different care requirements from sowing to harvest. Tomatoes require dry air, drafts and high light levels. When grown together, it is the tomatoes that suffer the most and you cannot see a good harvest. In addition, crops have common diseases.
2. Cucumbers with peppers... An even less successful combination. Pepper needs dry air; it does not like long airing, which cannot be avoided when grown with cucumbers. Peppers do not grow well at high temperatures, and cucumbers respond well to them. Peppers are affected by the cucumber mosaic virus, although to a lesser extent than tomatoes.
3. Cucumbers with eggplant... These crops are most suitable for co-cultivation. Eggplants love high air humidity, frequent ventilation, and high temperatures.

Still, it is better to grow cucumbers in mono-plantings. It should also be borne in mind that the crop in greenhouses is grown only for early and late harvest (with the exception of the northern regions). Therefore, after harvesting cucumbers, before planting seedlings of other greenhouse crops, the land must be cooked again. After all, neither peppers, nor tomatoes, nor eggplants can tolerate manure or fresh compost, so it will have to be removed from the garden.

Greenhouse cucumber care

Cucumbers in greenhouses are grown in one stem so that there are no thickets below and a favorable environment for the development of diseases.

Plant formation.

1. Hybrids... After the appearance of the fourth leaf, the culture is tied to a trellis. When lateral shoots appear, they are pinched. From the axils of the first 4 leaves, buds and flowers are removed. If they are not cut off, then the growth of the plant will be delayed, and the overall yield will decrease. The lowest flowers take up almost all the nutrients, but the greens are formed too loose, and in bee-pollinated varieties, these flowers are not tied at all. The main stem is twisted weekly around the twine. After the 5th leaf, the forming lateral shoots are pinched over the 2nd leaf. And on these short lashes zelents are formed. After the 11th leaf, 3 nodes are left on the lateral shoots, and the top is pinched. When the cucumbers reach the trellis, the lashes are thrown over it and pinched the top of the main stem. The lateral shoots beginning to grow at the end of the main stem no longer blind, but allow them to grow freely. They form the main crop of zelents.
2. Varieties shape in a different way. On the main stem, predominantly male flowers are formed, and female flowers appear mainly on the lateral lashes. Above the 4th leaf, the main stem is pinched, and then the nearest bud gives a lateral shoot that replaces the main stem. It will have significantly more female flowers. Further pinching is the same as in hybrids: all lateral shoots formed are blinded after the second leaf. When the lash is thrown over the trellis, the shoots no longer break off, giving them the opportunity to branch.

When caring for a cucumber bed, thickening should not be allowed, otherwise solid thickets are formed and there are practically no flowers and fruits.

Top dressing - this is the main thing in caring for cucumbers from sowing to harvesting. Cucumbers are extremely voracious. To obtain a crop outside the season, top dressing is done once a week. When grown in summer, once every 10 days. Hybrids require much more nutrition than varietal plants, so they are fed every 5-7 days.

To provide cucumbers with everything you need, you always need to have herbal infusion, ash infusion (100 g / 10 l), complete complex fertilizer, kalimag and, of course, manure infusion on hand.

Root dressings alternate with foliar, and organic - with mineral. The feeding rate of hybrids is 3-4 times higher than that of varietal plants.

Watering carried out only with warm, settled water. Plants need high soil moisture, so they are watered at least 3 times a week, and on hot days - daily. On cold and cloudy days, the crop is watered very sparingly. Watering is carried out in the first half of the day, they can be combined with dressing.

Shading for greenhouse cucumbers is desirable. To do this, a mosquito net is thrown over the trellis. It is especially necessary to shade the cucumbers at midday.

Harvesting carried out every 2-3 days. Overgrown green plants slow down the appearance of new ovaries. No matter how well the plant is fed, it gives all the nutrients only to the seed fruit. The quality of the crop and the duration of fruiting depends on the timely collection of greens.

How to care for cucumbers outdoors

Taking care of your cucumbers outdoors is much easier than in a greenhouse.Nowadays, cucumbers are more often grown outdoors than in greenhouses.

All types of cucumbers are suitable for open ground: bee-pollinated and hybrids, bush and strong-leaved (when grown on a trellis). The main rule when sowing a crop is separate planting of bee-pollinated plants and hybrids. Cross-pollination of these species should not be allowed, otherwise the quality of the crop will be extremely low, and it will itself be small. In small areas, it is better to plant either only varieties or only hybrids.

Place for cucumbers

The culture grows well under the trees, then there will be no need to artificially shade it, and the lashes have a lot to twine. The only thing that needs to be done is to clear the soil of weeds, since cucumbers cannot be weeded. When pulling out weeds, the roots of cucumbers are easily damaged and the plants die. As a last resort, the weeds are trimmed. When the borage grows, he himself will drown out any weeds.

A place for cucumbers is allocated where pumpkin crops did not grow last year, but early cabbage, onions, legumes or strawberries were grown.

Manure beds for plants are prepared only in the northern regions on cold, poorly heated soils. In all other cases, manure is introduced in the fall, covering it by 20 cm.

Sowing dates

On the street, cucumbers are grown by direct sowing of seeds into the ground. Seedling cultivation is practically not used now, since there are a lot of attacks, and the yield is lower.

The determining factor for sowing is soil temperature. If it is below 17 ° C, then it is impossible to sow cucumbers, since it is cold for the culture and the seeds will die. For the soonest warming up of the earth, it is covered with a film.

Before sowing, the seeds are usually not germinated, but only soaked for 20-30 minutes in warm water and sown immediately.

The sowing period in the northern regions is June 5-15, in the middle lane - the end of May, with a cold, protracted spring - the beginning of June. In the south, sowing seeds is carried out in early May.

The seeding depth is 1.5-2 cm, the distance in a row is 25-40 cm. It depends on which cucumbers are grown. Shrub plants need less space, their feeding area is small, so sowing is carried out after 25-30 cm.Medium-growing weakly branching cucumbers are planted after 30 cm, strong-growing varieties after 40 cm.

In cold weather, crops are covered with any covering material (film, lutarsil, hay).

Post-emergence care

After the emergence of seedlings, the covering material is left only in cold weather and in case of night frosts. In case of frost, it is better to cover the seedlings with a double layer of thin covering material than with one thick layer (for example, with a thick film). It is very good to use hay from night frosts by mulching cucumbers with it. Under such a shelter, young plants can tolerate temperatures down to -6 ° C without much damage.

7 days after the emergence of seedlings, the first true leaf appears in cucumbers. Subsequent leaves are formed at intervals of 5-8 days.

After the appearance of a real leaf, the main care is watering and feeding. The fertilizer consumption rate for hybrids is 4-5 times higher than for bee-pollinated varieties. Plants are fed as well as in greenhouse conditions.

At an early age, cucumber beds are not weeded due to the fragility of the root system of the culture. If the plot is overgrown with weeds, and the ground is compacted, then the weeds are cut. You can loosen seedlings at a distance of no closer than 25-30 cm from the plant. If the ground is very dense and swollen, then to improve aeration, it is pierced with a pitchfork to the entire depth of the teeth at a distance not closer than 20-25 cm from the plant.

Caring for a fruiting plantation

Cucumbers in the open field are grown either in a sprout (horizontally), or they are tied to a trellis.

When growing horizontally care comes down to regular watering and feeding. Cucumbers do not form, whips grow freely in all directions.It is possible only in bee-pollinated varieties after the 4th leaf to pinch the main stem to stimulate branching and the formation of female flowers.

Watering is carried out over the area, since after the growth of plants it is impossible to find the main stem. Water consumption rate is 20-25 l / m2.

With vertical growing a plant after the 4th leaf is tied to a twine and directed upwards. All shoots, buds and flowers are removed from the axils of the lower 4 leaves. The rest of the side lashes are launched along the trellis. The main fruiting of cucumbers in the open field always occurs on lashes of 3-5 orders of magnitude.

The following indicators are optimal for cucumbers

Indicators	In the afternoon		At night
	It's clear	Mainly cloudy
Air temperature before fruiting, ° С	24-26	22-24	18-19
Air temperature during fruiting, ° С	26-28	24-26	20-22
Soil temperature, ° С	25-27	24-26	22-24
Relative humidity, %	80-85	75-80	75-80
Soil moisture,%	70-90	60-70

If it is very hot and low humidity outside, then to increase it early in the morning, cucumbers are poured with rain. Plants should be shaded a few hours after sunrise to allow the water to dry. Otherwise, there will be burns on the leaves and holes will appear.

Difficulties and problems in growing cucumbers

1. Seeds sown do not germinate... If they are viable, then the absence of seedlings indicates that they were sown in cold soil, and they died. Cucumbers are sown only when the soil warms up to at least 17 ° C.
2. There are many barren flowers on bee-pollinated varieties and practically no ovaries..
   1. Use for sowing fresh seeds. The greatest number of female flowers in varietal cucumbers is formed when they are sown 2-3 years after collection.
   2. The main stem was not pinched. Male flowers are always formed on it. Womens appear on the lashes of the 2nd and subsequent orders.
3. Greenhouse cucumbers small holes appear on the upper leaves. These are sunburns caused by dew drops falling from the greenhouse roof in the morning. To prevent burns, cucumbers are shaded and well ventilated in the morning.
4. Zelentsy thicken near the stalk, the opposite end narrows, resembling a beak. The leaves are light and small.Lack of nitrogen. The culture is fed with manure (1 l / 10 l of water), herbal fertilizer (1 l / 5 l of water) or nitrogen fertilizers (1 tbsp / 10 l of water).
5. The zelents are pear-shaped, and the edges of the leaves have a brown border... Lack of potassium. Top dressing with chlorine-free potash fertilizer: 3 tablespoons / 10 liters of water. You can feed with ash infusion - 1 glass per plant.
6. Leaves curl up... Lack of phosphorus. Top dressing with superphosphate: 3 tablespoons / 10 liters of water.
7. Leaves are marbled - lack of magnesium. Top dressing with kalimag. You can use dolomite flour for feeding, which contains magnesium (1 cup / 10 l).
8. Yellow-green leaves - a general lack of trace elements. Top dressing with any micronutrient fertilizer.
9. Arcuate greens.
   1. Abundant watering after a long lack of moisture in the soil. The culture needs frequent abundant watering, the soil should not dry out.
   2. Sharp changes in day and night temperatures.
   3. Watering with cold water.
   4. Pollination of hybrids by insects. This often happens when bee-pollinated varieties and hybrids are grown together. To avoid this, the distance between these types of cucumbers must be at least 600 m. In summer cottages where this is impossible, either varieties or hybrids must be grown.
10. Cucumbers are bitter.Zelentsy contains the element cucurbitacin. With improper care, its concentration rises sharply and the fruits are bitter. The appearance of bitterness in fruits is always associated with stressful situations for cucumbers. Currently, varieties have appeared that do not contain cucurbitacin, which means that they will not taste bitter even under extreme growing conditions. The main reasons for bitter zelents are as follows.
    1. A sharp change in temperature.
    2. Prolonged cold snap. In this case, so that the greens do not taste bitter, the beds, if possible, are covered with a double layer of lutarsil, throwing it over the trellis.
    3. Uneven watering or cold watering.
11. Zelentsy do not grow... Cucumbers grow at night, and if they do not grow, then they are too cold at night. Cover the beds with covering material at night.
12. Lack of ovaries.
    1. Sowing fresh seeds of bee-pollinated varieties. On plants grown from such seeds, there are almost no female flowers, but only exclusively male ones.
    2. The temperature is over 36 ° C. In such conditions, the plant goes into survival mode and it is not up to it to tie greens. When the temperature drops, fruits will appear.
    3. Excess nitrogen in top dressing. Cucumbers vigorously grow leaves and loosely tie greens. It is necessary to reduce the proportion of nitrogen and increase the dose of potassium in the top dressing. With a high nitrogen content, it accumulates in greens, which is dangerous to human health.
    4. Lack of pollinating insects. This often happens when planting bee-pollinated varieties in a greenhouse. To obtain a harvest, you have to manually pollinate the flowers.
13. The ovaries turn yellow and fall off.
    1. Watering with cold water. Especially if water from a well from deep soil horizons is immediately used for irrigation.
    2. In bee-pollinated and self-pollinated plants, this happens if fertilization has not occurred. Most often this happens in greenhouses at temperatures above 36 ° C or humidity over 90%.
    3. Prolonged cooling and rains also prevent pollination, since bees do not fly. In self-pollinated varieties, pollen becomes heavy in such weather and loses its volatility.
    4. In parthenocarpics, the ovaries turn yellow and fall off in the kidney type of fruiting due to lack of nutrition. 1-2 greens grow in a bunch, the rest fall off. In order for all the ovaries in the bunch to develop, it is necessary to increase the dose and the amount of dressings.
14. The lower leaves turn yellow and dry out. It's quite normal. In a fruiting plant, the lower leaves always turn yellow. In general, it is recommended that when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse or on a trellis every 10 days, remove the 2 lower leaves to make it easier for the plant to feed the ovaries.
15. Withering cucumbers... If this is not associated with a disease of the root system, then it is a consequence of prolonged drought and lack of watering. It is necessary to water the plants.

Growing cucumbers is actually not as difficult as it seems at first glance. But they require systematic painstaking care.

For sale, for the fresh market - getting a second harvest of cucumbers is easy. What varieties and hybrids to choose, when to plant seedlings and plant them in a permanent place, which is important for the summer resident and the farmer to know.

We propose to consider two options - how to get cucumbers for the second harvest both in the open field, without homemade greenhouses, and indoors.

Carefree option: the second harvest of cucumbers in the open field

In the open field or in closed without supplementary lighting, gatherings continue until early-mid-October, depending on climatic conditions. In some regions, the season lasts until the end of September.

Planting density - 2-2.5 plants per 1 m2, depending on the intensity of the formation of side shoots.
Subtleties for the summer resident:

• The first subtlety is the choice of a cucumber variety for the second harvest - more precisely, hybrids. The early ones do not fit, bitter crooks can grow - about the choice in detail and with the names - below.
• The second subtlety is the timing: when to plant seedlings for a second harvest, taking into account the growing season of the variety. They are planted at the stage of 2-3 true leaves, not older than 17-19 days in a permanent place starting from the first days and until July 12-15 in Central Russia, central and northern Ukraine, Belarus. In the southern regions, the optimal planting time is late July and early August. It is possible without seedlings, especially for a summer resident in the south, but with it it is faster and more productive.
• And third, for beginners, the seeds are soaked, wrapped in a napkin, in water. And it is better in a solution of a biostimulant - succinic acid, Epine, for example, or in another.

And for supporters of the lunar calendar - necessarily on the growing moon - a joke with a grain of joke.

If you want to get a harvest in October, you can slightly shift the planting dates, but you should take into account the inevitable losses due to a decrease in yield. However, it is worth calculating the profitability in each specific case - the cost of production at the end of August and the end of September varies significantly.

Cucumber varieties for the second harvest

They do not choose the early ones: they are not physiologically designed for growth and fruiting with a shortening daylight hours. By the way, that is why the fruits of the last harvest are often curved, almost bent into an arc, one end is thicker than the other, with bitterness - these plants respond to a lack of sun and low temperatures.

They choose tall, well-branching hybrids - with a shortening daylight hours, the main lash slows down growth. In addition, there is a decrease in genetic parthenocarpic traits (self-pollination) with artificial stimulation of branching - therefore, from July to November, the emphasis is on the ability to branch: such hybrids do not lose their qualities.

They also pay attention to the resistance to peronosporosis - the infectious background is quite high, powdery mildew is real and false.

Preference is given to salad cucumbers, winter winter hybrids Relay race, Olympics, etc. These are mainly short-fruited, shortened type, less often long-fruited.

Hybrids for the second harvest that showed excellent results - Courage, Sonata, Campanist (Rijk Zwaan), Maryina Roscha F1, Chistye Prudy F1, Zelenaya Volna (Manul), Courage, Voyage (Gavrish) Adam, Alex (Bejo) and others from trusted manufacturers seed material of domestic and foreign.

By September, the lashes turn yellow, it's time to remove them, they push through the soil, bring in humus (but not fresh manure) or a mineral complex. And they plant seedlings in cups, which they planted in advance.

When to plant cucumber seedlings for the second harvest, they are planted in early July or in the middle of the optimal time for the III light zone. Planted at the stage of 2-3 true leaves. The optimal age of cucumber seedlings for the second harvest is no more than 15-18 days.

Important: in the summer, the seedlings outgrow quickly, and the overgrown withers, does not take root well in the heat due to the difference between the volume of the green mass and the root system - two or three days may be critical. They are planted for better survival in the afternoon or in cloudy weather. The planted early ripening hybrids will give a massive harvest in about 3 weeks.

When planting, mineral fertilizers are applied, including NPK complex, humus, ash. Loosening, sufficient watering are essential ingredients for success.
It is important to plan protection against diseases, taking into account the waiting period, given that after the first spring-summer collection, the infectious background has worsened.

They form lashes depending on the characteristics of each variety - pinch the growth point, blind 3-4 lower nodes of the main lash on some, form into one stem, growing on a trellis in height, in others.

It is necessary to ration the ovary - if there is too much of it at the beginning of September, much more than full-fledged fruits can form. If this is not done, do not cut off part of the last ovary, the fruits will be small or will not have time to ripen.

Option two - indoors

Which varieties are suitable for the second harvest of cucumber in the greenhouse? These are parthenocarpic tuberous hybrids with high resistance to fungal and viral diseases, high resistance to shade. They are characterized by the ability not to outgrow, maintain an acceptable size without stretching, and suitability for long-term storage - a tuberous strong skin protects against drying out with a spacesuit.

For extended circulation (until the end of October) and winter-spring (January-December-June), shade-tolerant cucumber hybrids are needed. They are bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic type. Summer varieties will not yield crops in greenhouses and in poor lighting conditions.

These include hybrids of the class F1 Relay, Courage, etc., bee-pollinated Athlete, Karambol, parthenocarpic type Rais, Cadet, Barcelona, ​​etc.

The topic is voluminous, so let's briefly touch on the main points.

• When grown by the seedling method, the age of the seedlings is 15-18 days, no more. The best time for planting seedlings is the first decade of July, for the southern regions - until the end of July - beginning of August. Shifting the planting dates for the second autumn turnover by the method of shifting the dates is possible, but not always rational: due to the shortening day length, the yield decreases.
• Special attention is paid to sanitary measures. Preventive treatments against powdery mildew are carried out 1-2 days before planting seedlings in a permanent place, using preparations such as Topaz, Quadris, Strotby, etc. With frequent outbreaks of green speckled mosaic virus, treatments are also necessary.
• With a shortening daylight hours, in cool weather, fruit formation slows down, the degree of parthenocarpia of fruits decreases. To prevent, to accelerate maturation in the greenhouse, the night temperature is increased, and the optimal application of complex mineral fertilizers is ensured. For the prevention of fungal diseases, the formation of condensation is prevented - in the morning they ventilate (open the transom), turn on the soil heating.
• Daytime air temperature is gradually reduced - very smoothly, focusing on the weather. So, the temperature range fluctuates in the following values: in August in sunny weather with sunny + 24 ... + 27 C with sunny, with cloudy + 22 ... + 24 C, in November +21 .. + 22 C with sunny and + 19 ... + 20 С in cloudy weather.
• Soil temperature in August is + 22 ... + 24 С, by November it drops to +21 .. + 20 С by the end of October.

The yield under the optimal growing scheme should be at the second turn from 7 to 12 kg / m2 in the open field, from 10 to 16 kg / m2 in the closed field - the indicators vary depending on the specific hybrid.

The formation of the lash is carried out in accordance with the characteristics of a particular hybrid and growing conditions. So, some form into one lash, some pinch to stimulate the branching of the lashes.

When disembarking at the beginning of July, in paretnocorpic short-fruited hybrids (self-pollinating), they are blinded from 3-4 lower nodes of the main loop, with a later planting, in mid-July - 4-5 lower nodes.

When growing a cucumber for a second harvest in a greenhouse, the end of the turnover is planned relative to costs: additional lighting, heating. So, for many farms after the second half of October, it is impractical to continue work due to expensive heating. Some large farms with sufficient energy capacity for lighting and heating continue to produce products until the end of November, but in general, the production of off-season products in heated greenhouses remains unprofitable.