Peony tree planting by seeds and care in the open field

Peonies are extremely common in garden plots. The popularity and charm of plants are due to their relative unpretentiousness, good survival in harsh winters and, of course, the appearance of flowers, an amazing aroma and a variety of shades. The most common reproduction of peonies is by dividing the bush. But even from seeds you can get flowers that will delight you every summer. Cultivation has many subtleties, but it is very interesting to wait for the result of one's own breeding work.

Why peonies are rarely grown from seed

Reproduction of peonies by seeds among amateur gardeners is quite rare. And there are objective reasons for this. The main thing they are guided by when acquiring peonies for their site is the beauty of flowers. Therefore, hybrids specially bred by breeders are selected. Their significant disadvantage is the exact preservation of the appearance of flowers only when the bush is multiplied by division.

The doubleness of a peony is not preserved when propagated by seeds

However, in hobby gardening, purity is less important than beauty. Most of the seedlings obtained from seeds give interesting results. In this way, wild peonies can also be propagated, for example, evading or thin-leaved ones.

Peony (Paeonia) is the only genus in the peony family. It includes herbaceous perennials and deciduous shrubs.

Some varieties do not bear fruit at all, therefore, there are no seeds. These include, for example, Madame Forel, Marchal MacMahon, Montblanc, Celestial. To a greater or lesser extent, this applies to all double and milky-flowered peonies, which, if they give seeds, then in very small quantities.

But even if you have collected the seeds, what will grow from them will only remotely resemble the original bush. Most of the varietal traits, especially the doubleness of the petals and the brightness of the shade, will disappear. This is not to say that the flowers will be ugly, but they will definitely be completely different. And to evaluate the result, you have to wait at least five years.

Propagation of peonies by seeds requires certain skills. This is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure that has many nuances. But all the difficulties, inconveniences and long wait pay off when you see flowers that you personally bred.

Peonies have been grown as ornamental plants for over two thousand years. For the first time their beauty was appreciated in China, where they were considered divine flowers. There was even a ban on the cultivation of peonies by anyone other than the imperial gardeners.

Physiological features of seeds

A characteristic feature of peony seeds is low germination, which is due to the presence of an underdeveloped embryo that poorly absorbs nutrients and microelements necessary for germination from the soil, and a dense shell. It is very good if about half of what you have planted will germinate.Of the seedlings obtained, about a fifth of them have decorative properties.

Another difference is the low enzymatic activity. This means that in the first year after sowing, a very small number of seeds will germinate if they are planted immediately in open ground. Most will rise in the second summer. If you breed tree peonies, there are often cases of seed germination in the third or even fifth year. Therefore, in order to "deceive" nature, stage-by-stage stratification is used.

This property of seeds is transferred to seedlings. They grow very slowly, adding several leaves per year. They begin to bloom 5-7 years after planting in the ground (depending on the variety).

The choice of planting material

If you do decide to grow peonies from seeds, start collecting them when they are not yet fully ripe. Otherwise, they "go into hibernation." It is almost impossible to get them out of this state and make them germinate.

Fully ripe peony seed box

The optimal time for harvesting is from the beginning of the second half of August to the end of the first decade of September. If you wait longer, there is a danger of rot, mold and other fungi.

The peony fruit is a multi-layered light green (lighter than the leaves) leaflet of a complex shape, reminiscent of a star, at this time begins to diverge along the "seam". Be sure to wait for this moment. Unripe seeds will definitely not sprout. For the leaflet to form, do not cut all the flowers from the bushes. Leave at least 7-8 pieces.

The seeds themselves are colored in all shades of yellowish-beige or light brown, have a glossy sheen. The shape is round, and the shell is slightly elastic, soft and smooth to the touch. The size, depending on the variety, is 5–10 mm. The tree peony has the largest seeds.

Depending on the type and specific variety, the seeds look slightly different in appearance.

If you buy seeds from a store, it is obvious that they have already been there for a long time, the shell has hardened. It will be more difficult to germinate them. If the shell is also very wrinkled, refuse to purchase. The seeds have lost a lot of moisture, the germination percentage will be very insignificant.

Ask where the seeds come from. The further away the place of origin, the less likely they will ascend. In addition, they are adapted to local conditions. Consider whether the flowers will survive in your area.

Seed box - video

Germinating peony seeds at home

In order to "deceive" nature and get a high germination rate next spring, seeds are germinated at home, using an artificially created temperature difference - stratification, imitating the change of seasons.

Before planting, soak peony seeds in settled water at room temperature for 2-3 days. It is even better to use a growth stimulant for this (the most popular are Epin, Rostock), preparing a solution according to the instructions, or a strong solution of potassium permanganate (the color should be saturated, ink-violet). This is especially true for store-bought specimens with a shriveled hard shell and seeds of tree peonies.

For tree peonies, scarification is carried out immediately before planting - the hard shell is slightly incised with a sharp clerical knife or processed with soft sandpaper. Another option is to pour them into a container with coarse sand or small pebbles and shake vigorously several times.

Stages of stratification

Stratification can significantly increase the germination and survival rate of peonies

Stratification takes place in several stages. It is important to adhere exactly to the time frame and all the recommendations given. This creates:

the best conditions for the ripening of the seed;
a high probability of the appearance of roots;
correct development of seeds into seedlings;
proper growth of peony bushes after planting in the ground.

Phases of stratification:

Warm phase. The seeds are planted in shallow containers filled with very moist heated sand or soil and sand in equal parts (if you squeeze it in a fist, water should ooze). Use a conventional oven or microwave for heating. By the way, such a procedure is also an additional disinfection of the soil. If the weather permits, simply put the heating containers outside or in the greenhouse. They are then covered with plastic or glass to create a greenhouse effect. Good lighting and extra warmth are a must. You can use a special electric heating pad or a conventional heating battery. The optimum temperature is about 15 ºС at night (put it outside while the weather permits, then use a glassed-in balcony or loggia) and 25-28 ºС during the day. Do not overdry the seeds - spray the soil with a spray bottle every day (the soil should stick together into a lump when squeezed). Ventilate them at least once a week to avoid mold.
Cold phase. After about two months, when the root appears, the plants dive, pinching the tip slightly. They are transplanted one at a time into fertile soil. It is best to purchase ready-made soil in the store. Peat tablets are also a good option. The containers are removed to a room with a temperature of 6–12 ºС. If there is enough space, even a refrigerator is suitable, if it is not often opened so that there are no sudden changes in temperature.
Warm phase. Seedlings should spend three to four months in the cold. When you see the first leaf, bring them back into the room and store them at room temperature (18-22 ° C) until they are planted in the ground in a permanent place (in early August). Cover them again to maintain constant moisture.

The stage of cold stratification can be shortened by treating the plant in the area of the hypocotyl (the section of the stem directly under the cotyledons) with a 0.01–0.025% solution of gibberellic acid. It is a natural growth hormone of organic origin, widely used in professional breeding to increase seed germination. A piece of bandage or a cotton pad is moistened in it and applied to the indicated place for a day. Processed seeds are covered with glass jars or the bottom of cut plastic bottles. If after 7-10 days no kidneys are observed, the procedure is repeated, gradually increasing the concentration of the solution, but no more than three times.

A less common variant of stratification looks like this:

Cold phase. Immediately after harvesting, place the seeds in the freezer for two months.
Warm phase. It also lasts two months. Take out the seedlings, plant them in small containers and put them in a warm place, providing light, and, if necessary, additional heating.
Cold phase. In the fall, dig up the bed in advance, making shallow trenches (about 10 cm) 10-15 cm wide in the ground, and cover with plastic wrap. After the specified time has elapsed, shovel off the snow, place the containers with the seedlings in the trenches, fill the gaps between them with peat, needles or sawdust and wait for the shoots in spring.

Stratification - video

Growing and caring for seedlings

Step-by-step planting process

Planting of seedlings to a permanent place is carried out in the second decade of August. The planting scheme is usual, the distance between future bushes is about 50 cm for dwarf varieties and 80-100 for all others.

Drainage is placed on the bottom of the prepared pit - expanded clay, brick chips, small ceramic shards, pine needles, and so on.
To half of the earth from the pit, 200 g of simple superphosphate, potassium sulfate and dolomite flour are added, mixed and poured back. The rest of the soil is mixed in equal parts with compost.
Then the plant is placed in the hole so that the root collar is at the level of its upper edge, and covered with earth to the brim.
To stimulate root growth, you can sprinkle with heteroauxin or sodium humate (respectively, two tablets or one ampoule per 10-liter bucket).

At the end of May, if the climate permits, you can temporarily plant peonies in a bed with light, loose soil, located in a slightly shaded place, deepening by 1–2 cm. Level it and cover it with sawdust to prevent weeds. Peonies love the cool morning sun, but not the midday heat. The ideal location is in the shade of a spreading tree on the east side.

Care of young peonies

Seedlings do not tolerate soil with high acidity. To neutralize it, use dolomite or bone meal, wood ash.

The main enemy of peonies is rot, so the seedlings should be regularly sprayed with a 0.05% solution of Bordeaux liquid (50 ml per 10-liter bucket) or another fungicide from a spray bottle, at least once every 2-3 weeks.

It is also useful during the summer to feed with a solution of cow dung or complex fertilizers (Fertika-Lux, Raduga, Reasil, Dobraya Sila, Kristalon). But in accordance with the frequency recommended by the manufacturer. An excess of fertilizer is even worse than a lack of fertilizer. The optimal interval is once every 7-10 days.

A pale green or greenish-yellow tint of the leaves is evidence of a lack of nitrogen. In this case, feeding with ammonium nitrate will help. Be careful not to get the substance on the leaves. Water the plant immediately with clean water.

Peonies need rare but abundant watering

Watering is no less important - twice a month, but plentiful. It is performed not at the root, but along the edge of the garden bed or holes made between the rows of plantings. Loosening the soil at the roots promotes oxygen exchange and the correct formation of the root system.

The normal development of a seedling looks like this:

Until the end of summer, before landing in a permanent place - one continuous sheet, without the characteristic irregularity. In favorable weather conditions - two. When transplanting, the main root stands out clearly and has a thickness of about 1 cm or slightly less. A bud must appear in the axil of the leaf.
In the second year, mainly roots grow. The maximum number of leaves is 3-4. The stem is short, no higher than 15–20 cm. But the number of buds increases. The norm is 6–8 pieces.
The third summer - one or two shoots 35–45 cm high. Each has 3–4 normal leaves. It is already clear that these are peony leaves. The root system is deprived of a clearly defined main root. The number of buds doubled in comparison with the previous year, their length is about 2 cm, and smaller buds are formed in the sinuses.

Planting seeds in open ground

If you decide to plant peony seeds in the ground, you need to do this almost immediately after collection, setting aside no more than 3-4 days for drying, so as not to let them dry out and hibernate.

Light loamy soils are ideal for planting peonies.

This method is recommended for the southern regions, where winter comes in accordance with the calendar. In this case, the seeds will also undergo a two-stage stratification, but in a natural way. The first stage lasts during September, when the temperature is kept at 15–25 ºС, the second is in October and November, when it does not drop below 5–10 ºС. In harsher climates, seeds will freeze in the ground.

The garden must be prepared in advance. They must dig it deeply, removing stones and weeds. The best soil is light loam. If it is heavy - clayey, peaty, silty, humus, river sand and compost are additionally added during digging. Sand is needed half as much as the rest of the ingredients. For 1 m², you will need about two buckets of such a mixture.

Dig a shallow wooden box into the garden bed or mark the planting site in another way, for example, with plastic or slate borders, because most of the seeds will not germinate next summer. You may simply forget the exact landing spot. And in this case less land will be needed.
Planting depth - 3-5 cm. Moisten the soil well beforehand.
In late October or early November (before the first frost), plantings must be protected from winter cold.Spruce branches, straw, sawdust, fallen leaves, and so on will do.
About a third of the seedlings will appear next spring. The rest - a year later. Care consists in the usual procedures - loosening, watering, feeding, weeding out. The most important thing is to provide enough moisture, the soil should be moist at all times.
By the end of August, the resulting seedlings can be transferred to a permanent place. Be careful when transplanting, try not to damage the thin roots. It is best to remove the plant with a lump of soil around the roots.

You can use a combined method.

Plant the seeds in a box in the fall and leave them outside for the winter.
In early March, bring the container into a warm room and keep it at room temperature until May.
In May - June, when the night temperature is stable at 15 ºС, plant it in the ground.

Growing peonies - video

Growing peonies from seeds is a rather laborious process. In addition, it takes a long time to wait for the results. But the bushes obtained in this way are better adapted to the weather conditions of the area and show a higher survival rate compared to cuttings purchased from the store. The main thing is that a unique plant will grow in your garden, which is not found anywhere else.

27 years old, higher education in law, broad outlook and interest in a variety of topics.

Peonies are one of those early flowers that delight us with bright colors when many plants just wake up after a winter holiday. Lush bushes with large flowers are a decoration of any site, and cut buds in a vase refresh the interior of our houses for a long time. Today we will tell you how to grow peonies from seeds, how to care for them.

Why is seed growing rarely used?

This method of growing popular flowers is rarely used. Even knowing how to grow peonies from seeds, most gardeners prefer to propagate plants by dividing the bush. Why? There is a simple explanation for this.

Usually gardeners, purchasing peonies for their site, focus on the beauty of flowers. Therefore, they select hybrids bred by breeders. But the latter have one significant drawback - the preservation of the type of flowers is possible only when dividing the bush.

At the same time, it must be admitted that in amateur gardening, the purity of the variety is not so important in comparison with the beauty. The overwhelming majority of seedlings obtained from seeds pleases the owners with very interesting results. Knowing how to grow peonies from seeds, you can propagate wild-growing flowers. These include dodging and thin-leaved species.

Reproduction of peonies by seeds is not always possible for objective reasons - some varieties never bear fruit, they simply do not have seeds. These include Marchal MacMahon, Madame Forel, Celestial, Montblanc. In part, this applies to lactic-flowered and terry varieties, which have few seeds.

You should know that if you have collected seeds, then the plant you have grown will resemble the parent bush very distantly. The main varietal characteristics, especially the brightness of the flower shade and the doubleness of the petals, will disappear. Nobody says that flowers will grow ugly, they just will be different. In addition, to see and evaluate the result of your work, you will have to wait at least five years.

Reproduction of peonies by seeds will require special skills from the grower. This is a laborious and rather complicated procedure with many features. But according to flower growers, all difficulties, long waiting for results, inconveniences are more than compensated for when you see flowers bred on your own.

Features of seeds

Blooming peonies is always a holiday. Bright, fragrant flowers are beautiful both on the site and in a table vase. That is why not a single summer cottage is complete without these bushes.Peony seeds are characterized by low germination, which is explained by the presence of an underdeveloped embryo, which poorly assimilates trace elements and nutrients from the soil necessary for germination, and a dense shell.

Another characteristic feature of seeds is low enzymatic activity. This means that very few seeds will usually germinate in the first year after sowing, especially if planted directly in open ground. Most of them will rise only in the second summer. Tree peonies can give seed germination in the third, and sometimes even in the fifth year.

Florists try to "deceive" nature by applying stratification (stepwise). The ability of seeds to develop slowly is also transferred to seedlings. They grow very slowly, adding several leaves a year. Flowering begins in the fifth or seventh year after planting in the ground (depending on the selected variety).

Germinating seeds

It is not too difficult to grow peonies at home from seeds, but this process has its own characteristics. The reason, again, is the slow germination of seeds. But we said that flower growers have found a way to "rush" nature a little. What is required for this? First, you should only use your own seeds, not store-bought seeds. They must be immature: in the very early stages of ripening. During this period, they are not hard and are colored light brown with tiny yellowish specks, and the leaflets begin to crack at the seams.

It is important that the seeds do not dry out, so they are either sown immediately or stored in the refrigerator in damp sand for 1.5 months. It is best to do this from the last days of August to mid-September. If you decide to sow them right away, you need to prepare containers in which the seeds are sown to a depth of 5 cm.

Some growers plant seeds at this time directly in the beds. In this case, they go through two stages of stratification - warm (+ 15 ... + 30 ° C) and cold, lasting about two months (+ 5 ... + 10 ° C). This will allow you to germinate your planted seeds for the next summer. But you need to be prepared for the fact that a maximum of 1/3 of the total will rise. Some seedlings may appear a year later.

Stratification

This procedure will help you speed up the growth of the seedlings. This is thermal stratification - the effect on seeds of different temperatures - about +30 ° C during the day and about +15 ° C at night.

Warm phase

The seeds should be sown in a wide, shallow container in moist sand. It is placed on an electric heating pad (a heating battery is also suitable). The sand should be warmed up to 30 ° C, after which it is cooled and reheated, periodically moistening it.

The procedure takes about two months for the seeds to burst and roots to appear. Immediately after that, they are removed from the sand, the roots are pinched and placed in a container with soil mixture or in peat pots, lightly sprinkling them. This will significantly reduce the likelihood of injury to seedlings when planting in the soil.

Cold phase

It's time to move on to the cold phase. It is necessary for the active development of the shoot growth point. During this period, the embryo is actively growing, and the seeds germinate. This phase lasts about three months. Florists have found a way to shorten this time too. To do this, it is necessary to treat the hypocotyl (a piece of the stem located under the cotyledons) with a growth regulator solution. Prepare a 0.01% growth stimulator solution. The seeds are opened, moistened with the resulting composition of gauze and applied to the hypocotyl. To maintain the necessary moisture, the seeds are covered with a light-permeable cloth. If the temperature is maintained from +5 to +10 ° C, then a bud of growth will form on the seedlings and leaves will appear. If, after seven days, the kidney does not appear, the treatment must be repeated.

Seedling care

When a bud appears on the seedlings, they must be transferred to a warm room (not lower than + 16 ... + 18 ° C). The acceleration procedure will require patience and hard work from the gardener, but it will save a whole year.

Seedlings are transferred to the garden in early May, they grow in partial shade at a distance of about five centimeters from each other. The soil around them is leveled and mulched with sawdust, which retains moisture and does not allow weeds to develop.

Landing in a permanent place

In containers, seedlings grow until August. If weather conditions permit, peonies in the garden can be temporarily planted in a bed with loose and light soil, in a slightly shaded place. The plant must be buried two centimeters. At the same time, the peony is planted in open ground in a permanent place. In this case, the bushes are located at a distance of at least half a meter.

Prepare a planting pit measuring 50 x 50 x 50 cm.Place drainage (expanded clay, crushed brick) on its bottom. Add 200 g each of dolomite flour, potassium sulfate, superphosphate to half of the earth that you dug from the hole and mix. Pour the resulting composition into the pit. Mix the rest of the soil in equal parts with compost (humus).

Place the young plant in the hole so that the root collar is at the level of its surface, and cover it to the brim with earth. To stimulate the growth of the root system, you can use "Heteroauxin" or "Sodium humate" (one ampoule or two tablets per ten liters of water).

Peonies prefer the cool morning sun, and the midday heat does not suit them. These flowers feel comfortable in the shade of a spreading tree, preferably in the eastern side of the site.

Pruning peonies

In the first two years of development, peonies need to be removed from the buds. Such a seemingly "barbaric" method stimulates the accelerated growth of the plant and contributes to obtaining abundant flowering in the future.

If you want your house to be decorated with large flowers on a long stem, then pruning peonies is done as follows: remove all the buds below the top, as soon as their size reaches the size of a pea. If you need bright lush bushes in your backyard, then all the ovaries are left on the branches.

We have told you how to grow peonies from seeds. As you can see, the process is not easy, quite laborious, but at the same time very interesting. When the peonies bloom in the garden, you will forget about all the difficulties of growing and enjoy their beauty.

Peonies are one of those early flowers that delight us with bright colors when many plants are just waking up after a winter holiday. Lush bushes with large flowers are an adornment of any site, and cut buds in a vase refresh the interior of our houses for a long time. Today we will tell you how to grow peonies from seeds, how to care for them.

Why is growing from seed rarely used?

Reproduction of peonies by seeds is not always possible for objective reasons - some varieties never bear fruit, they simply do not have seeds. These include Marchal MacMahon, Madame Forel, Celestial, Montblanc.In part, this applies to lactic-flowered and terry varieties, which have few seeds.

Features of seeds

Blooming peonies is always a holiday. Bright, fragrant flowers are beautiful both on the site and in a table vase. That is why not a single summer cottage is complete without these bushes. Peony seeds are characterized by low germination, which is explained by the presence of an underdeveloped embryo, which poorly assimilates trace elements and nutrients from the soil necessary for germination, and a dense shell.

Germinating seeds

Stratification

Warm phase

The procedure takes about two months for the seeds to burst and roots to appear. Immediately after that, they are removed from the sand, the roots are pinched and placed in a container with soil mixture or in peat pots, lightly sprinkling them.This will significantly reduce the likelihood of injury to seedlings when planting in the soil.

Cold phase

Seedling care

The seedlings are transferred to the garden in early May, they grow in partial shade at a distance of about five centimeters from each other. The soil around them is leveled and mulched with sawdust, which retains moisture and does not allow weeds to develop.

Landing in a permanent place

Place a young plant in a hole so that the root collar is at the level of its surface, and cover it to the brim with earth. To stimulate the growth of the root system, you can use "Heteroauxin" or "Sodium humate" (one ampoule or two tablets per ten liters of water).

Peonies prefer the cool morning sun, and the midday heat does not suit them. These flowers feel comfortable in the shade of a spreading tree, preferably in the eastern side of the site.

Pruning peonies

We told you how to grow peonies from seeds. As you can see, the process is not easy, quite laborious, but at the same time very interesting. When the peonies bloom in the garden, you will forget about all the difficulties of growing and enjoy their beauty.

There are several ways to plant tree peony seeds. You just need to choose the right one, wait and ... admire the result.

The fruits of the tree peony ripen in September - early October, and the seeds (large, smooth, dark-colored, shiny, up to 10 mm long) collectwhen the seed pods begin to open. After 3-4 days drying they can be sown immediately. Sow in loose fertile soil to a depth of 3 cm. Do this before frost and better in a box dug into the ground. In this case, the soil must be moist. For the winter, crops are covered.

With this sowing, the seeds can germinate next spring, even without special training. But in most varieties and species of peony, this occurs in the second or third year. To accelerate germination, use scarification - file the casing with a file so as not to damage the cotyledons. Or stratify variable temperature. Since autumn, a box (bowl) with crops is left for the winter in the frost, and in March they are brought into the house and kept at room temperature (20-25 ° C.). Seedlings appear in spring.

There is another sowing method. The seeds are harvested unripe, without waiting for the disclosure of the carpels. Placed in moist peat and stored for 2.5 months at a temperature of 20-25 ° C. Then, in early February, they are transferred to the lower shelf of the refrigerator or to the basement, where the temperature is 5-8 ° C, and kept there until May for 3-3.5 months. In May, they are sown in open ground to a depth of 4-5 cm. Seedlings appear immediately this season.

During the summer, one very fragile and small leaf grows up to 4 cm high. watered and once or twice at the end of May - June feed urea (40-50 g / 10 l of water). Soil from above mulch peat. Seedlings for the winter should be well covered with dry leaves or peat, spruce legs, lutrasil.

Transplanted young growth to a permanent place in the spring after wintering. After transplanting, the plants bloom in the second year, but it is better to cut off the buds.

For landing choose a sunny, wind-protected place. They dig a hole 70x70 cm.Place on the bottom drainage... Half of the pit is filled with earth and 1 tbsp is added. superphosphate, potassium sulfate, dolomite flour, mix and tamp. Pour earth on top, mixed half with compost (two to three buckets), and plant the peony so that the root collar is at ground level. Water and fill the soil to the top of the pit. The fertilizers applied during planting will provide the plant with nutrition for 2-3 years, therefore, in the first year, only 1-2 are done. foliar feeding after regrowth of the ground part (40-50 g of urea and 1 tablet of microelements / 10 l of water). It is useful to water the peony with a solution of Heteroauxin (2 tablets / 10 l of water) or sodium humate (5 ml / 10 l of water) to stimulate root formation.

Seedlings mainly grow plants with white and, most often, non-double flowers.

author Popova N., photo by author

Every gardener is capable of growing a tree peony from seeds, but you need to have knowledge and patience.
In the event that the tree peony is grown from seed, it will more easily tolerate the climatic features of a particular region and the microclimate of your garden. And also this hardy plant does not require any extraordinary efforts in preparation for winter.

I sowed the seeds of tree peonies collected after ripening immediately into the open ground. And in the coming spring, I saw with regret: one, maximum two plants (out of 30-40 pieces of sown seeds) have sprung up. The next year, I found 2-3 more sprouts of peonies in this place - that's all ...

Then I decided to try to sow the tree peony in a different way, having previously processed the seeds before sowing.

Treated peony seed treatment

In early December, she soaked her tree peony seeds, collected in the fall.

Two weeks later, when the seeds swelled, she scarified them. I rubbed each peony seed on sandpaper (medium grain) on both sides, until a white heart appeared under the seed shell.

Then the time has come for the stratification of peony seeds.
During stratification, peony seeds must be constantly in a humid environment, but not flooded with water!

At the bottom of a transparent plastic container, sphagnum moss is placed, which perfectly absorbs and retains moisture for the seeds placed in the moss for a long time. I closed the container with the seeds with a lid.

In the absence of moss, I advise you to use toilet paper to moisten the seeds, fold it in ten layers, and put the seeds in the middle.
You can put the seeds on prepared toilet paper; then you need to cover them from above with a thick cover made of wet toilet paper.
For the experiment, I put a few peony seeds between layers of toilet paper and placed them in a resealable jar.

I put peony seeds in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) for 2.5 months.

In March, I took out a jar of seeds and a container with seeds of a tree peony lying in the moss from the refrigerator. I put the containers with the seeds in them in a warm corner of the windowsill.

I tried to open the peony seeds in the jar where I used toilet paper to soak the seeds for a few seconds every day for airing. If mold appeared, I washed the seeds in potassium permanganate and laid them on a fresh layer of paper.

Keep in mind that in sphagnum moss, mold does not appear on stored seeds at all, and therefore you may not look into the container with moss for a while.

In the photo: seeds of a tree peony ripe and germinated in sphagnum

Sowing sprouting tree peony seeds

Finally, after April 20, white roots began to appear on some of the peony seeds. By the beginning of May, absolutely all seeds had roots.
However, it must be borne in mind that the peony seeds were their own, fresh, harvested in the fall. But with purchased peony seeds (in a seed store, on Chinese sites, etc.), germination can be much worse.

In the spring, it is not necessary to delay the sowing of stratified seeds of a tree-like peony in open ground. After all, sprouted seeds cannot be stored for a long time. In addition, hot weather may already be established in many regions in May. Then the sprouted peony seeds may disappear (baked under a lid or dry out in the open field after sowing).

I sow sprouting seeds of a tree peony in a shaded place in the garden, deepening them by about 3 cm.In order not to dry out their delicate roots, after sowing, I cover the planting site for the first time with cut plastic bottles with an open neck.

Transplanting tree peony seedlings

When the tree peony seedlings grow up, you can start transplanting them. It is best to transplant them to a permanent place after two years.

It is necessary to carefully consider favorable places in the garden for growing a tree peony. Choose quiet places in partial shade, protected from the winds. Fill the planting hole with fertilizers in advance, since tree peonies are long-livers, and re-transplanting is undesirable for them.

Blooming tree peony seedlings

In a tree-like peony seedling grown from seeds, the first bud will open only five years after germination. In subsequent years, more and more flowers will form on the peony bush.

Tree peonies grow relatively slowly, but they live for fifty or more years. And these plants do not require special care, presenting us with magnificent flowers every year in May!

Herbaceous peonies are found in all gardens, but tree-like peonies are still a rarity for Russian gardeners. Because our stores are flooded with imported tree peony seedlings, which rarely survive in difficult weather conditions. At the same time, most lovers of tree peonies do not even suspect that our local tree peonies grown from seeds and grow well and winter, without requiring much trouble.

I advise you to sow prepared seeds of tree peonies in the garden and wait five years for the seedlings to bloom. This is better than from year to year to buy imported seedlings of tree peonies that do not want to grow from us, from which, even at best, you will have to wait 3-4 years for flowering.

Natalia Popova (Volgograd)

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Reproduction of a tree-like peony is done in different ways: by dividing the bush, by air layering, by cuttings, sometimes by grafting. The seed option is used mainly by breeders, but we will also talk about it.

↑ to the table of contents ↑ How the tree peony reproduces ↑ to the table of contents ↑ Reproduction of the tree peony by dividing the bush

This method is used when the plant is already 5 or 6 years old. The tree-like peony is carefully dug up, the roots are washed, they are divided so that at least 3 shoots are present in each fragment. It is advisable to rinse the separation points with a solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkle with chopped charcoal or activated carbon. Before digging into the soil, each separated part is dipped in a solution of water and clay for about half an hour. This process is best done in the fall. The division method is rightfully considered one of the most convenient and effective ways to reproduce this type of peony.

↑ back to contents ↑ Tree peony - propagation by cuttings

This process is best done in July - mid-summer. A healthy and strong bush is selected, semi-lignified shoots are separated from it, with a bud (heel) and leaves. The leaves are cut in half, and the shoots themselves are placed in a sandy-peat substrate by about 2-3 cm (by the way, vermiculite can be used for this purpose). To make the process more productive, it is better to cover the cuttings with plastic transparent glasses or cut plastic bottles - to create a kind of "greenhouse". The stock of cuttings should be frequently ventilated and watered. After 2-3 months, the seedlings are planted in separate pots and "stored" in such greenhouse conditions until the arrival of spring. From the moment of active growth of the cutting, it can be transplanted to a permanent place of residence, to a plot.

↑ to the content ↑ Tree peony - propagation by layering

This method was briefly described just above: the shoot located at the bottom of the bush is selected, incised, pressed to the ground (for example, with a wire hairpin), sprinkled with soil. It is better to do this procedure in May, and with the onset of autumn, this shoot is finally separated from the bush and planted separately. Sometimes you can find recommendations for wrapping the shoot with a film or sprinkling it with moss instead of backfilling it with earth. If this business goes well for you and you like the method itself - try it, look for a convenient option for yourself.

↑ to the content ↑ Tree peony - reproduction by grafting

The best time for this procedure is the second half of August. Taking care of a tree peony with this approach is quite tedious, but from some point of view, it can be called creative. A previously separated and processed part of the root is taken, an incision is made on it in the form of the letter "V", a graft is inserted into this incision. The joints are tightly tied with a special garden or grafting tape (as it is called) and are additionally abundantly covered with garden varnish. 20 days before planting in the soil, this "structure" can be placed in a container with sawdust, under a film, creating a kind of greenhouse for it. These containers should be placed in a room where there will always be partial shade. In the case of lateral grafting, everything happens in the same way, only the shape of the incision differs - or rather, a diagonal cut is made at the rootstock and scion.

↑ back to content ↑ Tree peony - seed propagation

This is the work of breeders, this method requires strict adherence and sequence of actions. Alternate treatment with cold and heat is only a small part of all manipulations. Plus, the seeds should be the freshest, because even with not very long storage, they still quickly lose their germination ability. If everything works out and this method brings a positive result, then such peonies will be able to germinate at 2 or 3 years of age, and will bloom only after 5-7 years.

From the above, it follows that the tree-like peony, the reproduction of this flower, gives the best result when dividing the roots. For cuttings, skills are also needed, layering is a method that is quite accessible for beginners, along with division. Vaccination should also be carried out, if not by a breeder, then by a fairly experienced gardener.It will take about a couple of years for the layering to give a result, one and a half to two years for the inoculation, reproduction with the heel will give results much faster. Well, then the choice is yours - it is more convenient to whom, it is more interesting.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to grow a tree peony from seeds at home?

If you are fired up with the idea to translate this difficult undertaking into reality, then why not! The process will be long, but with proper observance of all the nuances, the business will be crowned with success. However, you need to be prepared for the fact that growing a tree peony from seeds will take a very long time.

Seed pod, photo:

How to grow a tree peony from seeds at home:

Seeds should be taken only fresh. Best of all are those that are harvested immediately after opening the "ripe" pods. With the onset of autumn, in place of flowers in some varieties of peonies, pods appear, in which there are seeds. A sign of seed maturity is the dark brown color of the pod. Once the pods have reached this stage, they should be carefully opened to reveal the black kernels. The seeds themselves are quite large, about the size of coffee beans or black peppercorns.
The collected seed should be carefully examined, damaged or suspicious specimens are discarded immediately.
After that, we take convenient containers, fill them with vermiculite (or calcined river sand), moisten (but not much) and immerse the seeds in them not very deeply for 30-35 days. These containers should be kept in a dry and dark room, where it is always warm. You can place them on a radiator, for example (or on an electric heating pad with temperature control). Throughout the entire time, the air temperature near the containers should be approximately + 30 ° C during the day, with the onset of night it should be lowered to + 15 ° C. Vermiculite or sand must be kept moist at all times, which can be easily maintained with a spray bottle.
When the seeds have small roots, then they should then carry out the so-called cold stratification. To do this, take already other containers, fill them with an earth mixture containing peat and / or humus, carefully transplant the hatched seeds into them together with roots. During this period, the air temperature in the room with the containers should be approximately +7 .. + 10 ° C.
Now you have to be patient and wait for the first leaves to appear, after which the air temperature should be raised to +18 .. + 20 ° C. You should not forget about periodic irrigation, you can also sometimes add growth stimulants to the water. Young shoots are transferred to their permanent residence at the end of August.

If you purchased the seeds from a flower shop, chances are they might be pretty dry. In such seeds, the shell hardens, hatching occurs with difficulty, the germination of crops is greatly reduced. If you got just such a seed, then be sure to first place it in water at room temperature for two days.

Young peony in a pot, photo:

There is another way to grow a tree peony from seeds at home - sowing them into the soil immediately after collection. Winter cold will provide natural stratification of the seed. Seeds planted in this way can germinate in the same autumn (at its very end), or maybe in spring. There is nothing complicated in the sowing process itself: the seeds are buried in the ground by about 4-5 cm, the distance of the seed from the seed should be at least 3 cm.Water this area regularly, but not too abundantly, in order to avoid root rot.

With the onset of the first cold weather, cover the beds with fallen leaves (mulch). When September comes to an end, watering should be stopped, you can additionally lay a layer of foliage on top.If everything was done correctly, you will see the first shoots in the spring, but remember the time - some seeds may germinate even after a year, next spring. Water young plants moderately in summer, feed with small doses of appropriate fertilizers. With the onset of autumn, young tree peonies can be planted at greater distances from each other. Full foliage in such seedlings appears at about the 3rd year of life, at this time the plants should receive enough sunlight to be able to develop normally further. We already mentioned the choice of a place for planting a tree peony just above.

When does the tree peony bloom? With normal care and compliance with all planting requirements, such seedlings can give the first flowers as early as the 4th year of life. Expect it to be 5 or even 6 years before a seed-grown tree peony delivers its first flowers. When choosing a planting material, be sure to consult with more experienced growers or, for example, study information on the Internet. Some varieties of tree peonies (Madame Forell, Mont Blanc, Marshal Mohon) do not form seeds at all. But even those peonies that give seeds, when growing a new livestock, can only partially retain their "maternal" qualities. This process is fascinating and really is in some way creative, because it is always interesting what will happen next, what kind of flower will turn out from a small seed grown with your own hands.

Didn't I scare you very much with the difficulties of reproduction of the tree peony? Of course they are. This is the waiting time when your pet will bloom after planting the cuttings or after rooting the cuttings, this is the unpredictability of the result when planting with seeds. But, the gardener always believes in luck when he really wants to have a profusely flowering bush on his site - a tree-like peony. Reproduction in one of the ways described above (and you choose the one that interests you the most) does not seem like an impossible task.

Good luck!

There are several ways to plant tree peony seeds. You just need to choose the right one, wait and ... admire the result.

With this sowing, the seeds can germinate next spring, even without special training. But in most varieties and species of peony, this occurs in the second or third year. To accelerate germination, use scarification - file the casing with a file so as not to damage the cotyledons. Or stratify variable temperature. Since autumn, a box (bowl) with crops is left for the winter in the frost, and in March, they are brought into the house and kept at room temperature (20-25 ° C.). Seedlings appear in spring.

Over the summer, one very fragile and small leaf grows up to 4 cm high. watered and once or twice at the end of May - June feed urea (40-50 g / 10 l of water). Soil from above mulch peat. Seedlings for the winter should be well covered with dry leaves or peat, spruce legs, lutrasil.

Transplanted young growth to a permanent place in the spring after wintering.After transplanting, the plants bloom in the second year, but it is better to cut off the buds.

For landing choose a sunny, wind-protected place. They dig a hole 70x70 cm.Place on the bottom drainage... Half of the pit is filled with earth and 1 tbsp is added. superphosphate, potassium sulfate, dolomite flour, mix and tamp. Pour earth on top, mixed half with compost (two to three buckets), and plant the peony so that the root collar is at ground level. Water and fill the soil to the top of the pit. The fertilizers applied during planting will provide the plant with nutrition for 2-3 years, so in the first year only 1-2 are done. foliar feeding after regrowth of the ground part (40-50 g of urea and 1 tablet of microelements / 10 l of water). It is useful to water the peony with a solution of Heteroauxin (2 tablets / 10 l of water) or sodium humate (5 ml / 10 l of water) to stimulate root formation.

Seedlings mainly produce plants with white and, most often, non-double flowers.

Date of publication:Landing in open ground

Why peonies are rarely grown from seed

Physiological features of seeds

The choice of planting material

Seed box - video

Germinating peony seeds at home

Stages of stratification

Stratification - video

Growing and caring for seedlings

Step-by-step planting process

Care of young peonies

Planting seeds in open ground

Growing peonies - video

Why is seed growing rarely used?

Features of seeds

Germinating seeds

Stratification

Warm phase

Cold phase

Seedling care

Landing in a permanent place

Pruning peonies

Why is growing from seed rarely used?

Features of seeds

Germinating seeds

Stratification

Warm phase

Cold phase

Seedling care

Landing in a permanent place

Pruning peonies

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