Peony tree planting and care in the open field in the fall

We present the rules for planting and caring for a tree peony in the open field: location, soil, distance, depth and planting hole. We consider leaving in spring, summer and autumn: flowering, feeding, watering and pruning. We will separately dwell on the preparation for winter and shelter of the peony.

Own-rooted and grafted tree peonies: is there a difference?

Own-rooted peonies

Advantages. Long life expectancy from several decades to several centuries (usually bloom profusely for at least 25-30 years). High resilience and resistance to frost and disease. Free reproduction by dividing the rhizome.

Inconvenience. Conventionally, disadvantages can be called: slow growth and development of the plant in the first five years, therefore it blooms later - in the 4th-6th year. At this age, the bushes are usually 60-70 cm in height.

Grafted peonies

Advantages. Fast growth (20-40 cm per season) and flowering (1-3rd year).

Inconvenience. Shorter lifespan. They cannot be propagated by dividing the bush and must be immediately planted in a permanent place - they do not tolerate transplanting well.

At the same time, the grafted peonies often form shoots near the bush, which can be dug up and planted. Otherwise, it must be removed in order for the flower to develop better.

How to tell?

A seedling of a self-rooted peony has many long and thin roots (thickness - 6-9 mm), they are lighter. The grafted flower has roots from a herbaceous peony (cylindrical succulent rhizome) of greater thickness (3-5 cm) and darker.

Japanese grafted tree peony seedlings

Advice

Some growers, in order not to wait for the flowering of their own rooted tree-like peony, plant two types of seedlings. It turns out that the grafted specimen quickly blooms and brings joy, and the self-rooted one gradually grows and becomes a symbol of the family for many years.

Planting a tree peony: location, soil, distance and depth

LANDING AREA

Experts advise to immediately choose a permanent place with optimal factors for the development and flowering of a tree peony.It should be well lit in the morning and evening, and in the afternoon it is better to have a little shade, since the midday heat reduces the flowering time.

• Therefore, it is better to plant on the east side so that there is maximum amount of light in the morning. Protection from strong winds and drafts is also necessary, frequent gusts of wind worsen the laying of flower buds.

Cannot be planted in low-lying areas, in an area with high groundwater levels or prone to waterlogging. Even 1-2 days of water with melting snow or heavy rain lead to negative consequences. If this is likely to happen, plant on high ridges and make gutters.

LANDING DISTANCE

The distance between the peonies is 1.3-1.8 m, other small plants can grow between them. The distance to the nearest large bushes and buildings is at least 2 meters, and to trees - 3 meters. The roots of shrubs and trees will deplete the soil, and the walls of buildings will heat up in summer.

GROUND FOR LANDING

Tree peonies are not selective, but they prefer loamy soil with high moisture and air permeability.

Heavy soils should be diluted with sand and humus, fresh manure should be avoided. Sandy loam soils need to be improved by adding clay and compost, but still the flowers are less decorative and age faster.

The worst is peaty soil due to its high acidity, therefore more wood ash and additionally slaked lime are added.

The optimum acidity level is pH 6.1-6.8. Excessive acidity must be reduced.

We recommend reading: «SOIL ACIDITY: HOW TO RECOGNIZE AND REDUCE?».

How to plant a tree peony correctly? Instructions

1. Landing pit. Cone-shaped, width - 70-75, and depth - 65-81 cm. It is better to dig a hole 18-35 days before planting.
2. Drainage. It is recommended to make a 16-19 cm drainage layer of gravel, broken brick or sand at the bottom of the planting pit.
3. Soil mix. Put rotted manure on top of the drain. The soil mixture is prepared in equal parts from earth (top layer), peat and humus + add 140-210 g of superphosphate and 310-390 g of bone meal or wood ash. If the soil is clay, then you also need to add 7-9 kg of river sand, and 1-1.5 buckets of clay into the sandy soil.
4. Planting depth. The root collar is placed in the soil so that the renewal buds are at the level of the soil surface. The grafted specimens are planted so that the grafting site is 9-14 cm below the soil surface.

   Adjusting the planting depth of the peony

5. Landing. The components are mixed and poured into the pit. The roots are spread on the seedling for maximum contact with the soil, and they are planted on the resulting cone. The root collar should not touch humus to prevent fungal diseases. After planting, pour water over the pit, and then fill up with ordinary earth, no more than 3-4 cm on top of the renewal buds.

• If the pH is below 6.5, add 100 grams of hydrated lime to the top dressing layer, and if it is below 6.0, add 200 grams per bush.

Planting a tree peony in spring or autumn: when is it necessary?

According to scientific experts, the most favorable time for planting a tree peony is from August 20 to September 30 (Middle lane, Moscow region). Moreover, September 15-25 is considered the best period, according to Chinese masters - the autumn solstice + - 1 day.

Seedlings with closed root system (closed root system) can be planted in spring and even summer. Still, it is better to dig a peony in a pot bought in spring in partial shade until August - September, so that it adapts better. Then you transfer (always with a lump of earth) to a permanent place and make a shelter for the winter.

Peony transshipment into the ground

But seedlings without a pot (OCS) are best planted only at the indicated favorable time or, in extreme cases, in early spring.

Why is it better to plant tree peonies in the fall than in the spring?

It is better to store seedlings from spring to autumn dug in on the site not because of fears of their death.

But because planting in the spring will take away from them the nutrients intended for the growth of shoots and flowering, which are accumulated in the storage rhizome. Because of this, the flower will not develop suction roots and will not make up for losses.

As a result, a lot of time will be spent on recuperation for the next flowering. And planting a seedling in a container creates favorable conditions for it. Low temperature prolongs the dormant period, it is easier to protect it from drying out and waterlogging, as well as from frost and drafts.

How to save a seedling before planting in August or September?

Often seedlings with an open root system are brought in massively from China at the end of winter. In this case, plant a cut in a 3-4 liter pot, put it in a cool and dark place (cellar, basement) and slightly moisten the soil (without waterlogging (!)) So that the flower remains at rest for as long as possible.

After the start of the growth of the shoots, transfer the pot to the windowsill and water as little as possible. In May - June, place in the garden in a quiet and shady place. And in August or September, plant it in a permanent place.

Tree peony care after planting

The first spring is a key time in the life of a flower. From May to mid-June is the most favorable period for feeding.

1. Pour a solution with a complex mineral fertilizer (for example, "Kemira Spring - Summer") + nitrogen (ammonium nitrate 40-50 g) into a circular hole to accelerate the formation of the root system and intensive vegetation.
2. In the first growing season, foliar feeding is more effective. Sprinkle the bush three times: 1. After the start of shoot growth - 30-40 grams of urea / 5 liters of water. 2. After 14-19 days, 30-40 grams of urea (carbamide) and a tablet with microelements / 5 liters of water. 3. After 2-3 weeks, two tablets / 5 liters of water.
3. If there is no rain, then water every 2-3 days for the first 15-19 days after planting. In the future, water the bush during drought is better less often, but abundantly: 11-16 liters per bush. Loosen the soil the next day to provide oxygen to the roots.
4. Preparing for winter 1-2. In mid-October, the seedlings must be covered with a 11-14 cm layer of peat and covered with a bucket. Using straw, foliage or manure is not recommended. In the spring, the mulch is harvested, and the next fall, they are covered again.

What year will the tree peony bloom after planting?

A grafted seedling with normal development usually blooms in the 2-3rd year, and self-rooted in the 4th-6th year.

First bloom

A tree peony does not need to rush to pick the first flower (not like in herbaceous species). If he was able to form a flower bud and bloomed, it means that he developed the root system sufficiently.

It is necessary to cut the first flower after full flowering, i.e. as soon as it is fully revealed.

If the bush has two sprouts and buds, then wait until the stage of the colored bud. Then gently remove (pinch) the top bud or pierce its base with a needle. Then it will dry out, and the plant will not waste nutrients.

If the bud is cut off before this stage, then the growth point located at the top of the shoot will be damaged, which is fraught with stopping its growth.

• At the first flowering, the flower often does not coincide with the declared characteristics of the variety. All varietal characteristics usually appear during the third flowering, especially in densely double flowers and with an unusual shape of the petals.

Tree peony: care in spring, summer and autumn (feeding, watering)

WHEN TO OPEN A TREE PEONY IN SPRING?

You can remove the winter shelter after the snow has completely melted, at the time when crocuses begin to bloom. Approximate terms for the Moscow region: late March - early April.

Spring pruning of peony

Before the beginning of the growing season (March - April), it is recommended to prune for a beautiful formation and extension of the life of the bush. To do this, cut the shoots at the level of the first growth bud from the top, and shorten the weak ones by 9-12 cm above the ground.

Attention! If found, do not cut off the frozen shoots and wait until the end of May.If the flower does not recover, then cut them to the first living bud, then it will begin to grow again.

Pruning a tree peony in spring

Top dressing and fertilizers: subtleties and order

The best food for tree peony: wood ash, bone meal and mineral fertilizers with a high concentration of potassium and phosphorus, and a low concentration of nitrogen. It is convenient to fertilize together with watering.

Autumn is the best time for organic fertilization. The bush can be overlaid with compost (rotted manure) - 3-5 kg, and then dig up the soil 11-14 cm deep. Fresh manure is categorically not advised to use; from contact with it, the roots are affected by rot.

1. Preventive. After the snow melts, water the soil around the peony with potassium permanganate (2-3 grams per five liters of water - one bush) to prevent diseases.
2. Nitrogen-potassium for growth. As soon as the snow has melted, it is better to apply nitrogen and potash fertilizers - 1: 1. Spread 16-21 grams of nitrogen (ammonium nitrate - 40-60 grams) and potassium (potassium salt - 16-21 grams) on the ground at a distance of 16-21 cm from the rhizome.
   You can replace 40-60 grams of nitrophoska or take something like Kemir Spring / Summer. Then dig 9-11 cm deep and cover with a thin layer of compost. Together with water after rain or watering, substances will get to the roots.
3. Potash phosphoric for powerful flowering. At the beginning of budding (12-16 days before flowering), liquid feeding is carried out with potash (40-50 g) and phosphorus fertilizers (20-30 g) - 2: 1.
   Potassium and phosphorus will provide abundant flowering. Additionally, you can water 10 liters of mullein infusion (only bushes over five years old) or dissolve mineral fertilizers in it.
4. Bloom. During the flowering of the peony or after it, after 3-5 days, repeat the potassium-phosphorus feeding.

• An overabundance of nutrients should be avoided and the measure of feeding should be observed.
• To improve nitrogen metabolism, it is advisable to carry out foliar feeding (spraying) with boric acid - 1 gram per 500 g of water every 15-20 days before flowering.

Watering a tree peony

Obligatory watering: 13-16 days before flowering (15-25 liters) and 13-16 days after flowering. Do not allow the soil to dry out in July - August (it is often dry and hot), and the plant starts buds of renewal and needs water. Watering is stopped at the end of August.

In general, it is best to water sparingly but abundantly. Usually, 2-4 waterings per summer are obtained with sufficient rainfall. Be sure to loosen the soil after watering (rain) so that there is no crust and maximum oxygen flows to the roots.

Hole around the bush for watering and fertilizing

Summer: flowering, post-flowering peony care and pruning

Bloom

Treelike peonies bloom in late May - early June (Middle lane, Moscow region). First non-double, after 3-5 days - terry, and later for 1-2 weeks yellow-flowered semi-shrubs. Medium varieties bloom in mid-June, and late varieties from the end of the month to early July.

The flowering period is 11-16 days, a little less in hot weather, and more in cool weather.

CUTTING RULES FOR A BOUQUET

• Cut no more than half of the flowers to make it easier for the peony to recover.
• When cutting a flower, at least 2-3 leaves should remain on the remaining shoot on the bush.
• Advice. For fuller flowers, cut off 25-30% of the resulting buds at the "pea" stage.

SUPPORT

For varieties with large flowers, support the flower with reinforcement or stakes with a wire ring. Now there are special bush holders on sale, for example:

Ready support for peonies

Post-flowering care: pruning

After flowering, the stem is trimmed two buds below the faded bud. And also weeds are regularly pulled out. Watering and fertilizing according to the recommendations in these sections.

Pruning a tree peony after flowering

Tree peony: care in the fall and preparation for winter

Autumn care of a tree peony is reduced to digging a trunk circle (60-80 cm in diameter) at a depth of 10-13 cm.On top, you can remove the top layer and pour sand into which small-bulbous flowers (anemone, kandyk, crocus, muscari, scrub, scilla). They bloom in early spring and decorate the wintering site with their flowers.

Transplant and reproduction

Read about transplanting a tree peony in the fall and reproduction in a separate material at the end of the page.

Preparation for winter: is it necessary or not?

In the Moscow region and throughout the European part of the CIS, tree peonies normally hibernate without shelter in a quiet and wind-protected place. Although in winter the earth can freeze over a meter in depth, and the temperature can drop below -30 degrees.

• In the open area: Middle lane, Moscow region, North-West, Ural and Siberia better cover them for the winter "just in case of fire."
• But young (1-2 years old) tree peonies must be covered for the winter. To do this, it is enough to pour an 11-14 cm layer of peat around the bush and cover with a bucket.

Do I need to prune a tree peony in the fall for the winter?

Experts do not recommend pruning tree varieties in the fall. It is better to spend it in the spring. More details in the chapter - "Cropping".

Shelter for the winter tree peony

1. It is imperative to tie the bush with a ribbon, tourniquet or rope in mid to late October, but not tightly and neatly so that the branches do not freeze to the snow and break off in the spring.
2. After the onset of stable subzero temperatures (November), cover the bush with spruce branches, white (!) Burlap, agrofibre or lutrasil (leave gaps for air at the bottom).
   Instead of a spruce hut, a tree-like peony is often covered with a cardboard box, plastic boxes or a barrel for the winter. If the branches rest against the bottom, it is better to cut them off a little, since they will freeze and still have to be cut in the spring.
   Shelter with burlap allows you to preserve peonies in winter and often more often serves as protection not from frost, but from hares and birds - so as not to damage the kidneys.

• To increase the frost resistance of the flower due to better ripening of the shoots, you can cut off the leaves by 2/3 of the length at the end of September.
• Even if the buds of the bush, which had bloomed for 2-3 years before that, are frozen, do not worry. At the end of May, cut off such shoots to the first living bud, and then they will easily grow back.

Pruning tree peonies: bush formation and rejuvenation

In general, the flowers are characterized by good pruning tolerance and rapid growth of new shoots. When pruning a bush, you need to understand that it will bloom on last year's shoots.

Bush formation

To form a bush, it is advised to cut woody shoots at a height of 70-90 cm. It is this height that contributes to the excellent development and flowering of the tree peony in our climate, and also makes it easier to shelter for the winter. Although the shrub itself can grow up to 2-2.5 meters in the European part of the CIS.

Rejuvenation

To rejuvenate the flower and awaken the adventitious buds, it is recommended to cut the stems of the treelike peony every 10-20 years to the upper axillary point (3-4 cm from ground level). This procedure promotes more lush flowering and prolongs the life of the plant, up to a hundred years or more.

Diseases and pests

Tree peonies are very resistant plants, including pests and diseases. The greatest danger is gray rot, and the best remedy is prevention.

If damaged, treat the plants with a fungicide. For example, potassium permanganate - 3 grams per 10 liters of water or copper sulfate - 60-70 grams per 10 liters of water.

For prevention, be sure to spray the flowers in the spring (mass regrowth of shoots), before and after flowering with a fungicide.

For example, copper sulfate (40 g per 10 liters of water or 4 g per m2), iodine solution (1 ml per 400 ml), potassium permanganate (1 g per 4 l) or infusion of onion husks (pour 100 g of 5 liters of water and leave for 24 hours ).

Read more in the article: HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? Section - funds and preparations.

What is the best seedling to choose?

It is best if the tree peony seedling has 2-3 lignified shoots with unblown, rather large dark red glossy buds (dormant state) 18-25 cm in height.

• The high cost of seedlings is explained by the fact that when dividing a bush, few divisions are obtained (2-5).

Most of them are brought from nurseries in China, Japan and Poland.Many experts believe that foreign planting material is less prepared for our climate and recommend buying seedlings of Russian varieties.

Russian tree peonies are highly winter-hardy and thrive in the Moscow region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia.

However, there are more chances to buy them from residents of Moscow and the Moscow region, since many of them are grown in the Botanical Garden at Moscow University. Much credit for this belongs to Marianna Sergeevna Uspenskaya.

• Be sure to study the characteristics of the variety: winter hardiness, survival in your climate and external signs (height, flowering time, flower features - terry, shade and diameter).

TIPS

1. If the buds of a delenka with an open root system (without a pot) have already blossomed, then its quality is much reduced.
2. When buying a seedling without a pot, be sure to inspect the root system so that there are as few rotten or broken roots as possible. And their length should ideally be equal to the height of the seedling.
3. The larger the seedling, the longer it will take root in a new place.
4. If at the base of the lignified shoot is a cylindrical succulent rhizome, then it is a scion of a tree-like peony on a herbaceous rootstock. (See reproduction by vaccinations).

Important! Damage to the buds during transport or planting results in a 1-2 year delay in flowering.

An interesting fact for residents and guests of Moscow

In the capital of Russia, the oldest botanical garden, founded in 1706 by Peter I, is known as the "Pharmaceutical garden". So, tree peonies were planted in it back in the 19th century, and they still bloom there. They are now about 140-160 cm tall.

Near the botanical garden (metro station Prospekt Mira) there are many greenhouses with exotic and rare plants open to the public. There is also a website and an Instagram profile, where you can find out the time and cost of excursions. In addition, a plant shop is open from mid-April until late autumn.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. TRANSPORTATION AND REPRODUCTION OF THE TREE PION - HOW BETTER?

2. CORRECT LANDING OF PIONES IN SPRING AND AUTUMN - OVERVIEW!

3. TRANSFERRING THE PIONES TO ANOTHER PLACE - SUBSTANCE AND TILT!

4. CARE AND CULTIVATION OF PIONES TO FLOWER!

5. REPRODUCTION OF HERBAL PIONES - ALL WAYS!

6. SPECIES AND BEST VARIETIES OF PIONE - PHOTOS AND NAMES!

7. ARE BLUE AND BLUE PIONES ALSO AVAILABLE?

Afterword

In this guide to planting and caring for tree-like peonies, many of the recommendations are consistent with the article from the Appendix "Household economy" from the magazine "Selskaya Nov". The author of the article is M.S.Uspenskaya, the issue was signed for publication on 23.10.1991. And also the book "Peonies" from Marianna Sergeevna.

Marianna Sergeevna Uspenskaya is familiar to every person who is interested in peonies. This is a real guru and a man-legend, candidate of biological sciences (1982), senior researcher (1967) of the Botanical Garden at Moscow State University and the author of many varieties.

By the way, on the Internet, 95% of the information about the agricultural technology of tree peonies is the processing of the works of Marianna Sergeevna. However, most of them resemble the game "broken phone" and contain conflicting information. Our editorial office keeps the original of this issue of the journal and the book, i.e. we studied the original source.

Finally, a video with the participation of the legendary Marianna Sergeevna and her live advice.

We wish your flowers to be healthy and bloom profusely every year!

This amazingly beautiful garden flower has become a cult in its homeland. The tree peony is on a small Chinese coin, celebrations are held in honor of it and works of art are created. Growing this flower is challenging, but its delightful bloom pays for the hassle.

Tree peony: requirements for growing

This flower cannot be called capricious, but in order to achieve lush flowering and preserve the plant in frosty winters, certain agricultural techniques should be observed.

Landing in open ground

These adorable flowers are long-lived. There are plants in China that were planted over 800 (!) Years ago. In our harsh climate, they cannot hold out so much, but in order for their flowering to please not only you, but also your children and grandchildren, tree peonies must be planted correctly.

This plant does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil, therefore, its planting should provide for drainage, which is made from small stones or small pieces of brick.

With a high standing groundwater, plants are planted on high ridges.

Site and soil preparation

Tree peonies do not tolerate transplantation well, therefore, in order for planting and further care to lead to abundant flowering, you need to immediately determine their habitat.

It must meet the following conditions:

• be well lit throughout the day, a small lace shade in the hottest time is allowed and even desirable - this will prolong flowering;
• be protected from strong winds - they prevent flower buds from forming;
• do not have stagnant water - even a few days of being in the water during the melting of snow in spring is enough and the flowers may die;
• remoteness from other plants - the roots of the tree peony react negatively to the presence of "neighbors";
• if several varieties are planted, the distance between the plants should not be less than one and a half meters - the diameter of the crown of a tree-like peony is equal to its height, and this flower does not grow in cramped conditions.

Tree peonies do not like either heavy clay soils or too light sandy soils. The best option is loam, which has good moisture permeability and air saturation. Soil acidity is another important indicator, which should be in the range from 6.1 to 6.8.

If the soil does not meet the requirements of the plants, it has to be improved by adding the necessary components and liming. Sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil. It is always better to carry out liming in autumn and in no case should it be combined with the application of nitrogen fertilizers, since nitrogen is lost during the application of lime. If it was not possible to carry out such a procedure in the fall, when planting in a hole, ash must be added, which not only reduces the acidity of the soil, but also contains micro and macro elements necessary for plants.

How and when to plant?

The best time to plant a tree peony is from August to October. The warmer the region where the plant grows, the later it can be planted. The main rule that should be followed is that at least a month should pass from planting to the arrival of frost. The flower needs this time to take root well.

1. A pit for planting a peony in the ground is prepared in advance so that the earth settles, the most correct thing is to do it in the spring. The land must be thoroughly cleared of weeds. The planting pit must have a depth and diameter of at least fifty centimeters.
2. The lowest layer is drainage. Its thickness depends on the natural moisture content of the soil, but not less than twenty centimeters. If the soil is peaty, it is completely changed. Other types of soil are adjusted according to the requirements of the plant. In any case, the bottom layer should consist of humus or a mixture of bone meal and removed soil in a ratio of one to two with the addition of two hundred grams of superphosphate and one hundred and fifty grams of potassium sulfate. Bone meal will naturally enrich the soil with phosphorus. It is very good to add a glass of wood ash. Planting a tree peony is done so as to exclude contact of the roots with fertilizers - this can lead to their burns and further decay.
3. A plant is placed in a plastic container, half filled with a prepared earthen mixture and watered, the bottom is carefully cut off along the perimeter and carefully pulled out from under the flower. Then the sides are cut and the container is completely removed. The pit is filled up to the top, controlling the location of the root collar - it should be at the level of the pit edges.It is better to carry out the last operation with an assistant.
4. If a seedling with a closed root system, carefully remove it from the pot and then act as in the first case.
5. The main condition for proper planting is to preserve the suction roots as much as possible. After the procedure, the plant is well watered, water needs five liters per bush. If you dissolve a root formation stimulator (heteroauxin, root) in water at the rate on the package, this will help the plant to root more successfully.

If there is a desire to make the grafted plant self-rooted, the root collar is deepened ten to fifteen centimeters. In this case, you will need to take care of the supply of additional heat to the roots. Not closer than fifteen centimeters from the plant, two or three bottles of dark glass are half buried in a circle with the neck down. You can moisten rags with kerosene and put them in bottles. The smell of kerosene will save the roots from damage by moles and bear.

In practice, the mass delivery of the roots of tree peonies occurs at the end of winter - beginning of spring. Nevertheless, it is better not to plant the plant during this period. Why is spring planting undesirable?

Seedlings with an open root system have practically no thin suction roots that feed the plant. If you plant peonies in the spring, they quickly start to grow under the influence of high temperature. This is facilitated by the reserves of nutrients in the rhizomes, which are quickly depleted. In warmth, the growth of suction roots is slow and the result is an imbalance between the underground and aboveground parts of the plant. From a lack of nutrition, the plants weaken, all the forces will go to their restoration, which means that you will not have to wait for flowering next year. Therefore, it is better to grow seedlings with an open root system by planting them in a plastic bottle with loose soil and holes made for water drainage. They keep her in a cold basement.

Tree peony: outdoor care

For the well-being of plants and so that they do not stop blooming, tree peonies need proper care. This flower does not forgive negligence, therefore, all agrotechnical measures must be performed strictly.

Peony watering schedule

These beautiful flowers are watered infrequently, but abundantly. In the absence of precipitation, it is enough to do this 4 times a month, pouring at least 6 liters of water under each plant. In hot weather, water more often. Mulching will help maintain the required moisture level. Watering is gradually reduced starting in August and stopped altogether at its end. The earth under the bushes is regularly weeded.

Fertilization and feeding

This flower loves to eat, so feeding begins in early spring.

Tree peony feeding schedule:

1. After the snow melts, it is necessary to process the land around the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of three grams per half a ten-liter bucket of water. This amount is enough to water one bush.
2. The first feeding with potash and nitrogen fertilizers is carried out over the snow. One bush will need fifty grams of ammonium nitrate and twenty grams of potassium sulfate. Top dressing is evenly scattered under the bush, and the melt water will deliver food to the roots.
3. The second feeding is carried out when the buds are formed. It should include all macronutrients: ten grams of nitrogen per plant, twelve grams of potassium, fifteen grams of phosphorus in terms of the effective weight of the fertilizer.
4. The bushes of last year's planting respond very well to foliar feeding, which is carried out in cloudy, but not rainy weather. The bushes are sprayed with a urea solution from a spray bottle (first feeding) at the rate of fifty grams per ten-liter bucket and complex fertilizer with the addition of trace elements (second feeding) according to the instructions on the package. Top dressing is carried out in the waxing moon phase.
5. Caring for these flowers in summer comes down to mandatory feeding at the end of flowering with a solution of twenty-five grams of superphosphate and ten grams of potassium sulfate per ten liters of water per square meter.

Plant pruning

Spring pruning is usually done.

1. If the bush is not frozen, then pruning is best done immediately after removing the shelter before the start of the growing season. As a rule, the upper part of the shoot is cut to the first bud of growth.
2. Weak branches need to be shortened so that their height from the soil level is from nine to twelve centimeters.
3. Sometimes it seems that the escape is frozen. In this case, you need to wait for the beginning of the growing season, and if the buds do not wake up by the end of May, you will have to cut off the shoot to the healthy part.
4. In order not to deplete the young bush, some of the buds are removed from it before flowering begins.

Transplant nuances

The plant has a negative attitude to transplanting, it does not like very much when its root system is disturbed. If there is such a need, only adult bushes at the age of 5-6 years can be transplanted. The transplanting process is identical to planting a flower. You need to prepare for the fact that the first time after transplantation, the tree peony will develop poorly.

Preparing for winter

The zone of winter hardiness of most tree-like peonies is 4-5. In areas with harsher climates, plants require winter shelter. The buds, as well as the leaves of the plant, are damaged by late spring frosts.

The most winter-hardy are peonies of the Rock subspecies. Frosts up to 40 degrees are not terrible for them.

To prepare the tree peony for winter, after the first frost, all the leaves are removed from the bushes and burned. The bush is neatly tied. It is impossible to bend it to the ground, since its shoots are very fragile. The soil under the plant is covered with a thick layer of humus. When stable frosts have come, the plants are covered with burlap or non-woven material.

Reproduction of tree peony

These plants can be propagated in the following ways.

1. Reproduction by grafting. A very effective, but also the most difficult way. It requires the root of a herbaceous peony lacto-flowered and a stalk that has two buds from a young shoot of a tree-like peony. The end of the cutting is shaped like a wedge. A hole is made of the same shape and size at the root. A stalk is inserted there and the grafting site is tied with a strip of soft film. The resulting vaccinations are stored covered with wet sawdust in the dark and planted in a greenhouse a month later, deepening the vaccination site by seven centimeters. Growing in a greenhouse is carried out for two years, and inoculation is carried out in August.
2. Reproduction by division. The easiest way. You can divide your own rooted bushes that have reached the age of six. Treelike peonies are divided in the same way as herbaceous ones.
3. Reproduction by layering. For this method, in the spring, a branch is chosen that is strongly inclined to the ground, a small incision is made on it and treated with a root formation stimulator. The branch is bent to the soil and sprinkled with earth with a layer of about ten centimeters. The rooted shoot is planted the next year.
4. Propagation by cuttings. This method is no different from grafting roses. The stalk is taken semi-lignified, having one bud, and rooted in a mini-plate. Cuttings are carried out at the end of June. The soil is a mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions. Planting depth - one and a half centimeters. If the cutting takes root, which is rare, it is grown in a greenhouse.
5. Seed reproduction. A method for breeders, as the plants do not retain their parental traits. The seeds of the tree peony have a low germination rate, and when they are stored, it becomes even less. After harvesting, the seeds are scarified and sown in moist fertile soil. Sowing depth up to three centimeters. Seedlings have to wait from two to five years.

How to get rid of pests and diseases?

Healthy shrubs are quite resistant to diseases, and in weakened plants, gray rot and brown spotting are most common.

1. When signs of gray rot appear, spraying with potassium permanganate helps - three grams per ten-liter bucket or a solution of copper sulfate of six percent concentration.
2. If the plant is sick with brown spot, all leaves with signs of the disease are removed and burned. The plant itself is treated with Bordeaux liquid. Its concentration is one percent.

There are also viral diseases of pions: Lemoine's disease, verticillary wilting and mosaic of leaves. Affected plants are removed from the flower garden, since it is impossible to cure them.

1. Treelike peonies are annoyed by ants attracted by the sweet secretions of the buds. They are fought with repellents.
2. Aphids are washed off with a stream of water or destroyed with insecticides: "Aktellik" or "Fitoverm".
3. They save themselves from thrips by spraying tree-like peonies with "Karbofos" 0.2% concentration.

Use in landscape design

The flower of the emperor can become a wonderful tapeworm in a flower garden of any size or just on a lawn. Several plants will perfectly decorate the background of the flower garden. Low varieties will be appropriate in rock gardens, peonies are also good next to conifers.

With its exquisite beauty, the tree-like peony, the care and cultivation of which does not differ much in terms of the level of complexity from the garden worries with its closest relative (herbaceous peony), will become a worthy decoration of your site. This tall flower is a deciduous plant.

Tree peony, photo:

↑ to the table of contents ↑ Features of the tree peony

Its height can reach 1.5-2 m in height, it has upright powerful shoots that grow every year. Attention is attracted not only by its delightful flowers of different shades, but also carved, as it were, openwork feathery leaves. Multi-petal buds are crowned with strong stems, which in diameter can reach from 14 to 23 cm.The tree-like peony is striking in its color range, depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, scarlet, rich fuchsia, yellow, soft lilac, blue (Blue Sapphire ) and even light green (Green Jade). Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below has a diameter of just the indicated 23 cm (and the second one is even larger).

Flower sizes, photo:

The color of the petals can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also varied: terry, semi-double, ordinary smooth. A remarkable feature of the tree is an increase in the number of flowers every year. The time of its flowering begins 10-14 days earlier than that of its relative, the usual peony. He has a higher tolerance to cold, he has a more stable "immunity" in comparison with his herbaceous counterpart.

Gradient coloring of flower petals, photo:

The bush is distinguished by abundant flowering, the number of blossoming buds at the same time can reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often, the duration of the flowering phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush, generously covered with green foliage, by itself is capable of decorating any summer cottage or flower bed.

Foliage of a tree peony, photo:

Due to its large size, it is planted separately from other flowers, or at a certain distance from other garden representatives. As an addition to other inhabitants of the garden, it also looks very harmonious; with its individuality, it appropriately emphasizes a hedge, an arch, an area near a gazebo, a garden bench or the entrance to a house.

↑ to contents ↑ What is the difference between a tree peony and a herbaceous one?

The first visual difference is the more powerful, woody shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact, it is a shrub. In the herbaceous, closer to the cold, the stems and shoots die off, and the tree-like one only grows them, every year turning into a spherical shrub that can reach 2 meters in height.In the fall, he naturally sheds foliage, but the shoots remain, become strong, as if lignified.

One more point, on a tree-like representative, you do not need to periodically cut the buds to stimulate the subsequent flowering and distribution of the plant's vitality. This method only works well with its herbaceous cousin. Tree-like in its "behavior" is similar to cold-resistant garden roses - it tolerates winter well, but in especially severe frosts (in the northern regions of Russia) it is better to protect it with a special covering material. You can also use spruce branches for these purposes.

If your peony feels comfortable on the site, you do everything competently and in a timely manner, then the period of its flowering will last about 3-4 weeks. Usually it blooms earlier than its herbaceous counterpart by one and a half to two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature background in the region significantly affect this factor. For example, in central Russia, they bloom in the first weeks of the calendar summer. Without replanting, in one place, it can grow for decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photos below are already 20-30 years old. There are cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!

Photos of long-lived bushes:

Another significant nuance (and difference) is the fact that they bloom only in the 4th or 5th year from the moment of planting in open ground. First, one flower appears at the end of a straight-growing shoot, and then, gradually, over time, the bush gains color, grows shoots, and is abundantly covered with buds. In the first years, it may seem to you that the bush has stopped growing, but this is a normal phenomenon for this species, for the first five years it generally adds very slowly in volume and growth. The temporary difference in the "ripening" of the bush is another difference.

To briefly summarize the main difference in what distinguishes a tree from a herbaceous one, you can use the following parameters:

• bush height;
• the size of the flower itself (its diameter);
• nuances, differences in care;
• the hardness of the escape.

Consider the natural slow growth of this flower, the process of growing shoots occurs gradually and not as quickly as we would like. In order for the bush to begin to give flowers, it must grow to at least 60 cm in height.

↑ back to contents ↑ Why does the tree peony not bloom?

This question can be seen very often on themed flower forums or various horticultural groups on social networks. The answer is predictable - improper care, poorly chosen planting site, as well as illiterate soil preparation for it (lack of drainage, non-observance of the correct burial of the flower into the soil). These nuances will be discussed below. The bush itself can be quite old or, conversely, young, not yet at the stage of the appearance of flowers (as we remember, it takes more than one year for the tree-like peony to give color).

The place for placing the bushes should be light and spacious, the soil should be fertile, loose, alkaline.

This plant really does not like transplanting - you should be aware of this. If it happens that for some reason a transplant is still required, then all actions should be performed very carefully. It is necessary to remove the bush from the soil with an earthen lump, be vigilant so that the roots are not damaged. However, be prepared for the fact that the flower after this event will come to its senses for a very long time, get sick and adapt in a new place for 2 or even 3 years.

Proper watering also has a big effect on flowering. Water should be watered abundantly and generously at a time, but not often! Stagnant water is dangerous for him, therefore, if clay soil prevails on your site, provide your pet with high-quality drainage before planting (put a drainage layer in the hole under the flower). It develops better and grows in open sunny places, but in partial shade the flowers retain their freshness and duration of flowering longer.

Bud, photo:

Let me summarize the main reasons why the tree peony does not bloom:

1. Insufficient or, conversely, excessive deepening of the bush into the soil during planting.
2. Overdoing nitrogenous fertilizers.
3. Excessive enthusiasm or, conversely, insufficient feeding (this flower does not need a large amount of auxiliary additives).
4. Damage to the bush by frost or, conversely, abnormal heat. Disease should also not be discounted. When planting a flower, always take into account the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature characteristics of the weather in your area. For example, when living in warm regions, choose early flowering varieties.
5. A banal lack of sunlight can also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
6. Age - young bushes bloom at 4 or 5 years of age, as mentioned above.
7. Too close distance between plants - he loves space.
8. Transplantation (sometimes repeated) or separation of the rhizome can also be a consequence of the lack of flowers.
9. Pruning shoots. Unknowingly, some gardeners prune the shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage began to change color (darken) or fall off.
10. Excessive dryness or, conversely, waterlogged soil. Remember that between waterings, the soil should have time to dry out.

Many gardeners would like the flower to combine its own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of its herbaceous brother. Breeders are not idle and are constantly trying to breed new hybrids, they are called ITO-peonies (new generation peonies) - but this is a completely different story.

Separately growing bush (it needs space), photo:

↑ to the content ↑ Important - the choice of seedlings

Pay attention to the planting material - its root system can be open or closed. When purchased at the appropriate points of sale, the seedling may already have special packaging (for example, a plastic bag on top), and its roots, on the contrary, be bare or in a bag with a substrate. Such indicators tell us that this is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in a ready-made pot and even has (sometimes) buds, then this is a flower with a closed root system.

Be sure to look at whether the seedling is grafted or has its own roots. If there is a graft, then the roots differ in dark color and thickness. In diameter, they can reach 4-5 cm and in appearance are somewhat similar to carrots. Such representatives may have flowers in the first year of life after planting. Such specimens must be obtained from appropriate nurseries, under the guidance of competent professional gardeners - and not otherwise.

Saplings, photo:

If you got a seedling obtained from a layering, then its roots will be light, thin and long. After planting it, you can see the flowers after 4 years (approximately). There is nothing new in the "scheme" for obtaining layering: a healthy and strong shoot with buds is bent to the ground, pinned, covered with soil. After a certain time, roots sprout from the buds, the shoot is cut off and divided into several fragments with roots.

When purchasing such a seedling obtained from a cut, pay attention that its roots are not exposed, and the plant itself has at least 5 capable buds. The length of such a seedling must be at least 25 cm!

↑ to the content ↑ Tree peony - planting and care in the open field

In order for a beautifully flowering bush to develop well, be strong and healthy, the very first thing is to choose a comfortable time and place for planting it. The most favorable period for this is considered to be the end of summer / beginning of autumn. If possible, determine for him an elevated place, illuminated by the rays of the sun. Dense trees growing nearby or various buildings will create a thick shade - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the most optimal place.Winds and drafts are also highly undesirable. As for planting in spring, it is not recommended due to the complex adaptation of the plant, because during this period growth and flowering are activated.

Loam is an ideal soil for this flower, if sandy soil prevails on your site, then add turf, clay, peat, humus to it in advance. Organic fertilizers and clean river sand can significantly improve the composition of the earth for the harmonious development of the peony. He also does not like acidic soil, so in advance "deacidify" it by adding lime. Plant a flower where there is no low groundwater flow, but if there is no other possibility, then the hole for it must be made quite deep (about 70-80 cm, the diameter is the same). Lay a drainage layer at the bottom of the recess, about 30-35 cm, crushed stone or fine gravel are perfect for this business. In extreme cases, a 30 cm layer of river sand can also be used.

Tree peony - how to plant? There is nothing difficult here: build a small mound of earth in the hole, put a bush on it, gently straighten the roots, pour water generously. After the moisture is absorbed into the soil, sprinkle the seedling so that its root collar is flush with the soil surface.

If you are planting several bushes at once, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters from one plant from another!

The so-called "finickyness" consists in finding the golden mean - creating optimal and harmonious conditions. The burning sun is harmful, but a thick shade is unacceptable, he loves water, but waterlogging is fraught with decay of the roots, and free space is necessary for the flower to grow and become a gorgeous lush shrub. The soil is important, because it is the nutrition of the plant, so it must be fertile and loose, drained. In principle, in this task there is nothing difficult for an enthusiastic gardener, since every green inhabitant requires attention, but also rewards accordingly - with beauty and an awareness of success, what has happened, grown, blooms and smells!

Peony tree planting and care - additions (optional):

1. Some gardeners say that the planting hole should "mature", as it were. I already wrote above about diluting the soil with fertilizers and additives, but according to some experienced flower growers, this hole should be prepared a month before planting the seedling. That is, add all the additives in advance, and only then bury the seedling in the hole.
2. When the seedling is buried in the ground, its lowest bud should already be embedded in the soil by about 15 cm. Some gardeners recommend laying such a "pie" in advance on the bottom of the pit: a layer of humus, a thin layer of earth, add a complex top dressing on top, sprinkle 1 a tablespoon (with a slide) of copper sulfate. For greater reliability, you can mix a little slaked lime with the soil (to lower the pH).
3. If a seedling fell into your hands in late autumn or winter, then "sleep" it until the end of next summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable soil mixture, bury a bush in it, place it in a cool, but well-lit room. During this entire period, the flower will strengthen the roots, and in the last weeks of August or the first two weeks of September, you can plant it for permanent residence in the open ground.

It is up to you to listen to these additions or plant a plant without much tweaks. As practice shows, with proper observance of all requirements, in both cases you will get a positive result.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to care for a tree peony?

The main care for him, in principle, is the same as for herbaceous. From time to time, you should loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it.If your bush boasts an abundance of flowers and shoots, be sure to create a support for it so that the branches do not break under the weight of the flowers.

↑ back to contents ↑ Watering

One bush requires about 6-8 liters of water, such abundant watering should be done at least 2 times a month. When doing this, take into account the possible precipitation! During the summer heat, this can be done more often - the condition of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. From about August, water volumes should be gradually reduced during irrigation until they are completely eliminated. It is recommended to plow the ground around the bush a couple of days after watering, when the top layer of the earth dries up. The depth of immersion of the garden tool in the soil when loosening should be no more than 5 cm. You can mulch with humus, but its layer should not be too thick.

↑ to content ↑ Fertilizers

Peony is very fond of nitrogen and potassium, it must be applied regularly. Nitrogen fertilizing is relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potassium-phosphorus supplements will be appropriate from the moment when the peony begins to form flower buds until the very end of the growing season. When the bush begins to give flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, a little nitrogen can be added. However, it should be remembered that an overabundance of this component can ruin it, so it is up to you to add nitrogen during this period or not. Sometimes it’s better not to do it than to overdo it - this is just such a case with regard to nitrogen fertilization. Do not forget to moisten the soil abundantly before each application - this will create a protective background for the root system of the flower.

While your peony is at a young age, then the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers are applied by the foliar method: about 35-40 g of mineral additives are diluted in a bucket of water (10 l) and the bush is irrigated with a spray bottle after each watering. Thus, the plant receives "nourishment" through foliage and shoots. Adult representatives are fed three times a year: in the spring, during the appearance of new shoots, during the swelling of the buds, after the bush has finally faded.

↑ back to contents ↑ Protection for the winter

As mentioned above, the tree peony is cold-resistant, but purchased specimens need mandatory protection in the winter. It will be better if for the first couple of years you cover them for the winter with lutrasil, spunbond, burlap or spruce branches. Additionally, you can make a "hat" of snow on top. It was said above about growing and protecting (even adult) peonies in cold regions.

↑ back to contents ↑ Pruning a tree peony

Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is more of a care nature. This procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, shriveled and dead branches must be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.

In China, there is a tendency to produce radical anti-aging pruning every 10 years - when the shoots are cut almost at the root. This manipulation is aimed at awakening, activating new buds, which subsequently gives a "second life" to the flower.

Or, each branch is pruned to the border of the second bud - such pruning contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the shrub. As they have in China, they know better, but in our regions, according to experimental observations, the tree-like peony does not really like pruning, so with the onset of spring, at least remove damaged and dry shoots. If you notice that some of the branches are very cold, do not rush to cut them, it is quite possible that the buds will still "move away", wake up and bloom - this also happens.

↑ back to contents ↑ Diseases of the tree peony

This flower is considered to be quite resistant and strong in terms of disease resistance. However, it can also be visited by parasites and diseases.The main problem is illiterate care, and old shrubs or shrubs weakened by transplantation are the first to fall into the risk zone.

The main diseases and methods of dealing with them:

1. The most dangerous and insidious enemy is gray rot (aka Botrytis). This fungal disease is activated with waterlogged soil and lack of sun (for example, when the summer is rainy). A grayish bloom appears on the leaves - if you notice this, then immediately cut off the suspicious fragments and burn them somewhere further from the site. Another sign of this disease is the softening and sharp wilting of young and strong shoots. It is treated with irrigation with potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water) and a 7% solution of copper sulfate (copper sulfate), also diluted with water. Irrigate not only the ground part of the bush, but also the soil around it, and even mulch.
2. Brown spot - the same actions. As a prophylaxis against it, irrigation with a low borous solution of potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water) is used. The affected leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself (the ground part) is treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
3. Rust (some gardeners argue that this is a synonym for brown spot) very quickly affects the bush, it even happens that the whole plant is destroyed in a day. First, brown-purple spots appear on the leaves, and then the foliage curls sharply and simultaneously dries up. Radical treatment - removal of all affected parts of the bush and their destruction. In the case of rust, prevention helps well: timely loosening of the soil to ensure the flow of fresh air (removal of weeds and thinning of other nearby growing plants). In early spring, even before the leaves appear on the shoots, or in late autumn, when they all fall off, the ground under the bush and around it must be treated with a nitrafen solution diluted in water, 200 g per 1 bucket of water will be enough.
4. Ring-shaped mosaic of foliage is another viral disease that manifests itself in the appearance of stripes and "rings" on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green tint, as practice shows, the annular mosaic does not particularly affect the flowering and development of the bush, but spoils the appearance of the foliage. The strips dry out over time and the sheet seems to crack. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease, it should be diluted as indicated on the package.

By the way, diseases are very often transmitted not only through contaminated planting material or soil, but also through gardening tools. Insects, even common ants, can carry fungus or viruses to healthy bushes.

A real garden aristocrat is a tree peony, cultivation and care, as well as an approach to oneself, oddly enough, requires completely unpretentious and does not have any special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of an ornamental flower and a shrub. A long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with their beauty for many years and even decades.

The peony family includes many interesting plants. The tree peony has long been appreciated by experts. This semi-shrub plant grows in a wide variety of forms, which number more than 480 varieties and hybrids. It first appeared in China, where many varieties of this plant were bred at one time. But gradually Japanese flower growers joined this business.

At the end of the 18th century, the tree peony became so popular in Europe that it was actively started cultivate for saleas well as for home use. Today, growing a tree peony has become even easier. To do this, you just need to purchase a seedling. However, it is not always the right decision to buy it in garden centers, since they are not offered there so often, and if they come across, they are very expensive.

Description of the tree peony

A photo of this shrub does not give an idea of ​​its features, so they need to be given special attention.

Under natural conditions, peonies grow in the form of a deciduous shrub with a height of 1.5-2 meters, in which light brown erect thick shoots are formed. Over time, the shoots gain mass, due to which it becomes hemispherical... In an adult state, the peony has openwork feathery leaves. The flowers of the plant, decorating the ends of the shoots, are large enough, reaching a diameter of 13-22 cm. Each variety is unique, which manifests itself in a variety of colors and shapes.

Therefore, today you can find plants of a very different shade - yellow, raspberry, white or pink. They can also differ in their structure: flowers can be double, semi-double and simple. There are also species with two-color flowers. The older the tree peony becomes, the more flowers are formed on its shoots. It enters the flowering stage 2 weeks earlier, in contrast to the herbaceous peony, and is also frost-resistant.

Growing a tree peony

This plant does not create much hassle in its care, so you can grow it at home without even having special skills. The main thing is exactly observe the rules of cultivation agrotechnology:

• the best time to plant a tree peony is late summer or early autumn. First you need to decide on a site for planting. It is best to choose places located on a hill, well-lit by the sun, away from trees and other objects that can create a shadow harmful to the shrub;
• tree peony grows and blooms best on loamy soils. It can also be grown on sandy soil, but in this case it will be necessary to improve the quality of the soil, for which clay, sod, peat and humus soil are added to it. You can also improve the quality of clay soil if you add organic matter and sand to it;
• Choosing the right planting site as well as the quality of the soil is key to success in growing a tree peony. If you follow all the necessary recommendations, then this will ensure good growth, development and longevity of the plant. In this regard, an important fact can be mentioned: it is possible to grow a tree-like peony in one place without transplanting for 100 years;
• some preparation will have to be done if the tree peony is planted in an area with a low groundwater table. To do this, it is necessary to increase the depth and diameter of the pit to 70 cm. A drainage layer is required, for the creation of which the bottom of the pit is filled with crushed brick, gravel or coarse sand with a layer of 30 cm;
• the tree-like peony feels worst of all on acidic soil. They solve this problem by adding lime to the soil, which allows it to restore to the optimal level of acidity. Add 300 gr. To the pit. substances, and a layer of soil is poured on top, and a plant is already planted on it. During planting, it is necessary to give the roots of the tree peony a natural shape and be sure to water. When the moisture is absorbed, a layer of soil is poured on top to align the root collar with the surface. For group plantings, plants must be placed at least 2 meters from each other.

Watering

In relation to this plant, the same measures are carried out as in the case of the herbaceous peony. The cultivation technique provides for regular watering, loosening the soil and controlling weeds. It is enough to water the tree peony at least twice a month. One plant must consume at least 7-8 liters of water.

In summer, the frequency of watering is increased. In early August, the need for moisture in the tree-like peony decreases, therefore watering is carried out not so often and gradually begins to reduce them. You need to loosen the soil every one to two days after watering, when the top layer dries up.During loosening, the depth of penetration should be no more than 5 cm. After each loosening, the soil is covered with a layer of humus.

Top dressing

Proper care of a tree peony involves regular fertilization... The highest requirement of this plant for potassium and nitrogen. It is necessary to carry out fertilizing with nitrogen-containing preparations in early spring, when the tree peony begins to grow. Subsequently, fertilizers are changed to phosphorus-potassium, which the plant needs from the moment the buds are set and until the end of the growing season.

During the flowering period, it is necessary to apply fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium, as well as preparations containing nitrogen. However, you must be very careful with the last element, because if it is excessively concentrated in the soil, it willrinesset is not good, but harm plant. This is dangerous because it can cause gray rot. In order to avoid such unpleasant phenomena, it is necessary to adhere to the rule: it is better to underfeed than overfeed. It is also important to protect the root system from burns. For this, top dressing should be carried out only after thorough watering of the soil.

Pruning

Pruning is also included in the list of mandatory activities that provide for the care of a tree peony. It must be carried out in the first weeks of spring before the beginning of the growing season. During this procedure, all dried and damaged branches are to be removed. Old shoots must be cut by 10 cm.

In China, local florists practice anti-aging pruning once every 10 years. Its essence boils down to cutting off the shoots almost to the base. As a result of this operation, the process of formation of new kidneys is started. To prepare the tree-like peony for abundant flowering for the next season, it is necessary to cut the shoots to the upper bud. It is not recommended to neglect pruning, since the full development and life cycle of the plant depends on this operation.

Transfer

When caring for tree peonies, do not forget that they need regular transplantation. However, during this operation, you need to be very careful, because it is very injures plants... For many peonies, transplanting is so stressful that upon completion they get sick and cannot recover for two to three years.

• during transplantation, you need to try to do everything as carefully as possible so as not to injure the root system. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the bush together with a lump of earth, and the excess soil is removed under running water;
• before transplanting, it is imperative to inspect the root system - if rotten and damaged roots are found, they must be removed;
• the places of the cuts must be covered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, dried and applied with a small amount of coal powder.

Reproduction

To breed a tree peony, you can use one of the following methods:

• division of the rhizome;
• propagation by cuttings;
• reproduction by layering.

There are also such growers who practice the grafting method.

Rhizome division

When a tree peony is propagated in this way, it is necessary, after digging up the bush, to divide it into parts, each of which must have several buds. The resulting cuttings must be placed in a clay solution for half an hour, and only after that they can be transplanted into the soil. This method provides the best chances of survival, provided that copies at the age of 5 years... It is recommended to plant them at the end of August. Subsequently, the same care measures are taken as for adult plants.

Propagation by cuttings

It is recommended to breed tree peonies in this way in the middle of summer. For this, a healthy bush is selected, from which semi-lignified shoots are cut off, having one bud and leaf. Before the cutting is sent to the ground, the leaf it has must be cut in half.As a planting soil mixture, a composition prepared from peat and sand is used. Cuttings are immersed in it by 2 cm.

Rooting can be accelerated if the cuttings are in a container under a film or transparent glass, which provides a greenhouse effect inside... At this stage of propagation by cuttings, it is necessary to carry out regular airing and watering. In such conditions, they are grown for 2.5 months, and then transplanted into individual containers, in which they are kept in greenhouse conditions until spring. At the first signs of tree peony growth, you can look for a place for transplanting into open ground.

Reproduction by layering

Immediately you need to prepare for the fact that growing tree peony seedlings in this way will take a lot of time and effort. Typically, this event takes at least two years.

Layers are harvested in the spring, using healthy and strong branches as planting material. On each, an incision should be made towards the ground. Any existing growth preparation must be applied to the incision sites. It is very important to carefully commit branch, for this you need to insert a peg into the incision. Further, the layering is added in drops, filling the place with earth with a layer of 10 cm. In the future, care for the layering is reduced to regular watering. When the branches take root, a suitable day is chosen in early autumn and the seedling is separated from the mother bush, after which a permanent place is looked for for it.

Experienced gardeners often practice the heel-breeding method of peonies. But when using it, the number of established seedlings is extremely small. He received the greatest distribution in those cases when it is required to reproduce many flowers. However, this method has proven its worth in home floriculture.

The essence of the method is to graft the plant on the root system of the herbaceous peony. This is done using cuttings of a tree peony, in which multiple kidneys must be present... First, you need to prepare the shoots in a special way: their lower part must be sharpened, inserted into the incision, which was previously made on the root of the herbaceous peony. Further, the area where the cuttings are connected to each other must be wrapped in polyethylene.

After finishing grafting, the plants must be placed in a container filled with sawdust and placed in partial shade. It usually takes 1 month for rooting. At this moment, shoots are transplanted into one container, while the lower bud should be destroyed into the ground by 5-6 cm. For planting, it is imperative to ensure the greenhouse effect. When using the grafting method for reproduction of the tree peony, you have to wait about 1.5-2 years for it to start growing.

Conclusion

The tree peony is one of the most common ornamental plants. It is no coincidence that this plant is grown in gardens, because it has a pleasant appearance. However, maintaining the beauty of this plant is not so easy, since it pretty moody flowerrequiring the fulfillment of certain requirements. Therefore, you first need to get acquainted with them in order to have an idea of ​​the difficulties the florist will have to face.

Tree peony varieties