Lilies planting and care in the open field when to dig

• Type: lily
• Flowering Period: May, June, July, August, September, October
• Height: 20-250cm
• Color: white, yellow, orange, red, spotted, two-colored
• Perennial
• Hibernates
• Sun-loving
• Moisture-loving

Lily is an amazingly beautiful flower with a pleasant aroma that has been revered in many cultures. The Greeks attributed her divine origin, believing that the lily grew from the milk of Juno - the mother of the gods. And when literally translated from Greek "li-li" sounds like "white-white". The Romans revered her as the main flower at festivals celebrating the goddess of spring Flora. Christians and Jews adorn their sacred altars with it, considering the lily a symbol of purity. This flower can be found on the coats of arms of noble families of different countries. Today, lilies adorn many parks and suburban areas, acting as a bright accent in any flower garden. One of the prerequisites for the lush flowering of these marvelous plants is the correct planting of lilies and their care.

The main groups and popular varieties of lilies

According to the international classification, these flowering perennial bulbous plants are divided into 9 groups:

1. Asian - include 5 thousand varieties. They are characterized by unpretentiousness and winter hardiness, flowers do not smell.
2. Curly - there are 200 varieties. It got its name from the inflorescences that resemble a candlestick with drooping heads.
3. Snow white - include 30 varieties. They have a wonderful aroma, they can have a pale yellow color. They are very moody.
4. American - there are 140 varieties. The flowers are very original in bright exotic colors, often decorated with two-tone black specks.Quite finicky.
5. Long-flowered - have an elongated bud shape with a direction to the side or downward, Extraordinarily fragrant. In garden conditions, they often suffer from viral diseases, they are mostly grown as greenhouse crops.
6. Tubular - have a characteristic flower shape, reminiscent of an elongated gramophone, collected from dense wax petals. Capricious, in need of shelter for the winter.
7. Oriental (oriental) - a large group of 1300 varieties. They are capricious, demanding for warmth, often affected by diseases.
8. Interspecific hybrids - combine the best qualities of individual groups. Extremely beautiful and exotic. Among the varieties obtained as a result of crossing, the most popular are LA hybrids, OT hybrids and LO hybrids with large flowers up to 25 cm in diameter for distillation.
9. Natural species - play a key role in the creation of new varieties.

Under natural conditions, these herbaceous plants are ubiquitous in the temperate latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere: in the Mediterranean, southeastern part of Central America, Japan, and China. Asian lily hybrids are most widespread in mid-latitudes.

Lilies are one of the most beautiful representatives of the bulbous genus. They belong to the daylily family and are relatives of onions, hazel grouses, tulips.

Asians come from natural species of Siberian lilies, such as Daurskaya and Tigrovaya, and therefore the most winter-hardy and adapted to not so favorable climatic conditions. Other groups of lilies, such as oriental, tubular or curly lilies, require more careful maintenance.

Among Asian hybrids, varieties are distinguished by the greatest decorativeness:

• "Marlene" - petals of a delicate pink hue. It is famous for its abundant flowering.
• "Landini" is a spectacular maroon beauty over a meter high.
• "Aphrodite" is a double flower with pink petals.

Of the old and time-tested varieties, it is also worth highlighting: "Inchantment" with flowers of a rich red-orange hue, "Destin" with delicate lemon-yellow petals, "Peprike" with bright red flowers.

Worthy representatives of the Orientali group can be considered: "Mona Liza" with graceful pale pink flowers, "Tiber" with lilac flowers framed by a white border, snow-white beauty "Siberia"

The choice of planting material

When choosing planting material, it is important to take into account the climatic features of the area, since not all lilies are able to painlessly tolerate temperature fluctuations.

When purchasing planting material, carefully examine the bulb: there are no spots and traces of rot on it. These signs indicate the defeat of the plant by diseases. The bulb should be evenly colored, the scales should adhere tightly to each other.

The marking will help to determine the varietal affiliation of the plant:

• The first Roman numeral denotes a lily group;
• The second digit indicates the position of the flower ("a" - directed up, "b" - to the side, "c" - down);
• The letter through the fraction denotes the shape of the flower ("a" - tubular, "b" - cupped, "c" - flat, "d" - turban).

It is best to store the bulbs in a cool place until planting, sprinkling with sand, sawdust or damp moss. Some adapt the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for this purpose.

For spring planting, choose bulbs on which sprouts have already hatched and short white roots have begun to grow

In the case when the bulb begins to germinate ahead of time, it is advisable to plant it in a flower pot, leaving it in a warm room. It is worth replanting in open ground after frost.

Choosing a seat for landing

When planning where to place an exotic beauty on a site, you should focus on her group affiliation. Tubular, Asian and Eastern lines show the greatest decorative effect only in well-lit areas.

They feel comfortable in the penumbra of lilies, which have adventitious roots on the underground part of the stem. These include varieties of the group of curly lilies. It is advisable to place them so that the root part is shaded, and the inflorescence is illuminated by the sun's rays.

Lily is a heat-loving plant that prefers well-lit areas, reliably covered with a "screen" of green foliage from gusts of wind

Lilies with large flowers look spectacular in solo performance. When planting small-flowered lilies, in order to obtain an expressive aesthetic effect, it is better to form small groups, placing them at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Against the background of the lush foliage of other perennials, bright graceful flowers will stand out favorably, creating a magnificent picture.

Sites located on a small hill are ideal for planting flowers. This prevents stagnation of rainwater, which often causes damage to plants by pathogens. Swampy soils are destructive for fastidious beauties. It is possible to improve the conditions on clay and heavy loamy soils by arranging drainage. For this, ditches are laid, placing them at a slight slope. The bottom of the ditches is lined with a layer of crushed brick or fine gravel, sprinkled with river sand on top and covered with earth.

So that the soil near the root area of ​​the flower is in the shade and does not overheat under the sun's rays, it is better to plant daylilies, bells and hosts in the immediate vicinity. Their spreading foliage will cover the surface of the earth, creating optimal conditions for the development of fastidious beauties.

Correct soil preparation

Correct soil is 80% of success in growing lilies. Regardless of the group belonging of the bulbous, they all prefer to grow on rich soils.

On enriched and well-drained peat soils, varieties of the American group and oriental hybrids thrive.

Humus is considered the best fertilizer for lilies. But it should be introduced with caution: with an excess of nutrition, the plants begin to "fatten". This provokes their slowdown in development, a decrease in disease resistance and a decrease in frost resistance. The optimal ratio of the introduced humus is 7-8 kg per 1 sq. M.

The introduction of poorly decomposed manure containing pathogenic microflora with pathogenic plants can adversely affect plants.

The soil under these flowering herbaceous plants must contain a sufficient amount of nutrients, because a plant can live in one place from 3 to 5 years. When digging the soil, it is filled with mineral fertilizers, which include nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. They are brought in at the rate of 100 grams per square meter.

Since the roots of plants go quite deep, they dig up the soil before planting, deepening 30-40 cm.To drain heavy clay soil, sand is added to its composition

Most members of the daylily family do not tolerate acidic soils, preferring slightly alkaline and slightly acidic soil compositions. On acidic well-drained soil, only varieties of the eastern group feel comfortable. Asians and LA hybrids are more fond of neutral and humous soils, and tubular lilies show the greatest decorative effect on poor, slightly alkaline soil with admixtures of ash and sand.

Help to reduce the acidity of the soil:

• Wood ash - it is brought in at the rate of 150-200 gr per 1 sq. M;
• Chalk - during digging, 300-500 gr. Per square meter.

Planting material processing

The bulbs are examined before planting, discarding diseased specimens: they remove damaged tissues, cut off rotten scales and dead roots.

The examined material is washed under pressure for 20-30 minutes. Then, in order to prevent the development of fungal diseases, they are first kept in a solution of potassium permanganate prepared in a proportion of 5 g per 10 liters of water, and then in a solution of the drug foundation.If necessary, they can be etched in an insecticidal solution based on chlorophos and 1% phosphamide.

The root system of these plants dries quickly enough. Therefore, after soaking, there is no need to dry them.

Choosing the planting time

The optimal planting time is after the plants have faded. This is the period from late summer to mid-autumn. If the bulbs are purchased in early spring, planting can be done as soon as the soil thaws and dries up. Late spring planting is risky because it can damage young shoots.

Spring planting is also more suitable for late-flowering varieties, the bulbs of which are slowly formed. These include LO hybrids and varieties of the eastern group: Rio Negro, White Haven, Rialto, Marco Polo.

When planting plants, you should be guided by the rule that large bulbs with a diameter of 8-12 cm are planted to a depth of 25 cm, and small ones - to a depth three times the size of the bulb itself

The only exceptions are Chalntcedony, Snow White and Testaceum. They form a root rosette of leaves, and therefore the soil layer above them should not exceed 2-3 cm.

When planting bulbs in heavy soil types, the bottom of the planting pits is covered with a 5 cm layer of sand. To protect them from voles, wire mesh is laid along the inner walls of the planting pit.

The onion is laid out on the bottom of the pit, placed on an impromptu sand "pillow", and the roots are straightened. They cannot be wrung and bent upwards. The landing site is marked with a peg and sprinkled with earth, lightly tamping. The well is poured abundantly with settled water and covered with bark mulch.

Lilies are very sensitive to root drying. To prevent the bulbs from weathering while the hole is being prepared, it is better to wrap them in a wet napkin or hide them in a box with wet peat. Tender young sprouts are afraid of temperature extremes

To protect young shoots, the planted bulbs are covered with plastic bottles with cut-out bottoms. For this purpose, it is better to use bottles with wide walls with a volume of 2-3 liters.

Subtleties in the care of an exotic beauty

How to care for lilies? To minimize the care of these flowering plants, a number of recommendations must be followed:

• During the season, feed the plants with complex fertilizers and ash at the rate of 50 grams per square meter. Top dressing is carried out in three stages: in early spring, at the stage of bud formation and after flowering. Suitable for spring root feeding: ammonium nitrate (40 g per 10 l), nitroammophosphate (50 g per 10 l), a solution of fermented mullein in a ratio of 1:10.
• Provide timely watering. Although the lily does not like excessive moisture, especially dry days need frequent watering. You need to water at the root, trying not to moisten the leaves. Accidentally falling water droplets can act as a kind of lens, causing sunburn.
• Mulching the soil. Very harmful to bulbous plants and soil overheating, which disrupts the course of biological processes. This can be prevented by mulching the soil with natural materials of light shades (cut grass, straw, sawdust).
• Pest control. The lily beetle and lily fly are dangerous for the aboveground part of plants. You can get rid of pests by collecting the larvae by hand and spraying the stems with preparations such as "Thunder", "Grizzly", "Mukhoed".
• Garter stalks. Tall varieties with thin stems must be tied to supports, thereby preventing them from breaking off and lodging.
• So that wilted inflorescences after flowering do not spoil the picture, they should be removed in a timely manner. The peduncles are removed at the end of the season.
• After the end of the growing season, the stems of the plants must be cut and burned so that in winter they do not serve as a conductor of cold to the bulb.
• For the winter, it is advisable to cover garden lilies with leafy soil, sawdust or spruce branches of conifers. Only Asian and LA hybrids do not need shelter.

Lilies are planted, separating the daughter bulbs, every three years, one and a half months after the end of flowering. By this period, they had built up mass and gained the greatest strength.

Lilies are planted, separating the daughter bulbs, every three years, one and a half months after the end of flowering. By this period, they had built up mass and gained the greatest strength.

Slowly growing varieties of Caucasian origin are best planted only after 5-6 years. Asian varieties can be replanted even in summer. The main thing is to dig up the plants with a garden pitchfork along with a lump of earth, while preserving the root system.

> When transplanting, baby bulbs are carefully separated from the stem and planted in seedling beds for growing. Immediately after planting, they are sprinkled with compost or manure humus, forming a layer 3-4 cm thick. They will form full-fledged bulbs in the second or third year.

Daylily - lily for the lazy

No wonder the breeders called these unpretentious and disease-resistant perennials "lilies for the lazy." And the statement that the more beautiful the flower, the more capricious it is, is not applicable to this plant. Daylily grows well in any garden soil, feeling comfortable both in the bright sun and in partial shade.

Not inferior in beauty to garden lilies and their closest "relatives" - daylilies, but unlike fastidious beauties, they are very easy to care for

Planting and caring for daylilies takes a minimum of time and effort. And the plant begins to delight with flowering already in the first year of planting. These perennials prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. They are able to grow on depleted soils, but they show the greatest decorative effect on loose loams rich in organic matter. They are tolerant of infrequent watering, but, like lilies, do not tolerate stagnant water.

Perfectly combined with ornamental grasses and flowering annuals, they perfectly mask the slow disappearance of spring-flowering bulbs.

Daylilies can become a bright decoration of any flower garden. With the right selection of species with different flowering periods, the flowering of daylilies will not be difficult to stretch for the entire season.

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Few can pass by a flower of amazing beauty - lily. It is one of the most ancient bulbous plants. Lily has been transformed over the years to its very best appearance. Therefore, it is not for nothing that the lily is today the queen of flowers.

Buying and storing lily bulbs

What are the first things to look out for before buying bulbs? On the general condition of the seedling. It should be large, fleshy, healthy, and the scales should not be overdried.

Before planting the bulbs in the flower bed, they must be stored in their packaging and in a dark, cool place. For this, a basement or lower drawer of the refrigerator is suitable. Planting material should be checked occasionally. If the seedling has begun to sprout, then trim it a little according to the growth of the stem. This action will help to avoid deformation of the sprout. If you bought a lily sapling in the fall, then remember that the last plant can be planted in mid-October.

Place for planting lilies

It is better to choose a place for planting lilies, namely Asian, Eastern and Eastern hybrids in a sunny area with protection from the wind. Curly lily saplings perceive partial shade. They like it when the bottom is in shade and the top is in the sun. To achieve this, other plants are planted near the lilies, which will shade the surface of the earth:

• Nivyanik;
• Hosts;
• Day-lily;
• Bells.

A flower garden of lilies is best planted in groups of up to a maximum of 7 pieces among other perennials. After the flowers have faded, the wilted inflorescences break off. So they will not spoil the look of the flower garden.

The main thing for lilies is not to choose a place in the lowlands, so that there is no stagnation of water.Since in this case, the plants will often get sick.

Advice! The ideal place for planting lilies is in the highlands.

Soil preparation

Lilies love soft, drained soil. Therefore, before planting seedlings, the earth must be dug up to 30-40 cm deep. If the soil is clay, in this case, when digging, sand is added at 1 kg per square meter. Peat is added to improve the sandy soil. Also, to improve fertility, manure or compost is introduced, one or two buckets per square meter is enough. Before planting perennial plants, you can apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (about 100 grams per square meter). If you fertilize the flowers correctly, then they will not need additional feeding until they are 3 years old.

Lilies do not do well in acidic soil. If necessary, the earth is lime. To reduce the soil to slightly alkaline or slightly acidic, you can add chalk or wood ash to it, an average of 200 grams per square meter.

Lily planting time

Most species of lily seedlings are planted or transplanted in late August and early September after flowering. Or, if the bulbs were purchased in spring, then at the beginning of May. Some species such as Asiatic lilies can be transplanted even in summer. But this can be done provided that the seedlings are dug up with a clod of earth. Late flowering lilies such as Oriental and Henry are best planted in the spring as they continue to form bulbs in the fall.

To prevent thickening of the planting, they are transplanted and divided:

• Asian - in 3-4 years;

Curly and American - in 5-7 years.

• Tubular and oriental - in 4-5 years;

Planting lily bulbs

Before planting lilies in the ground, they must be soaked for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate. It is necessary to dilute 5 grams of the substance in 10 liters of water. Since the scales and roots dry out quickly, the bulbs do not need to be dried.

The planting depth of the seedling depends on the diameter of the bulb. For large bulbs, dig holes up to 20 cm deep, for small ones - up to 10 cm. A layer of sand must be poured onto the bottom of the hole. Spread out the roots of the plant and place it on a sandy pillow, then cover the hole with earth. The space between the seedlings should be 25-35 cm. For the winter, planted lilies are best covered with something. For example, dry leaves or spruce branches. In the spring, shelter is not needed, it is removed.

Watch the video! Tips for growing lilies from an experienced gardener

Lily care

Lily is not very whimsical to care for. During the flowering phase, they must be watered moderately. In the heat, when there is little moisture in the soil, then you need to water the plant abundantly. After the lilies have faded, you can water much less often or stop watering altogether.

At the end of the flowering season, the plant must be pruned. Most of the stem should be left to stimulate further development of the seedling. It is best to cut the onion at a height of 10-20 cm obliquely so that excess water does not get inside.

Shortly before wintering, the planting sites should be covered with peat.

Important! Before covering the plants, care should be taken to keep the ground dry. Since if the soil is wet, rotting may occur.

For shelter, you can use sawdust, film, dry leaves, spruce branches.

Fertilizing lilies

Lilies, like other bulbous flowers, are very sensitive to the application of mineral fertilizers. Experienced gardeners recommend buying granular fertilizers. They are specially formulated for bulbous plants. But you need to pay attention to what fertilizers are bought. There are autumn ones that do not contain nitrogen and spring ones that contain nitrogen. The location of flowers should be fertilized with minerals 2 times a year: in mid-autumn and in spring, when the first sprouts appear.

Organic fertilizers are not well tolerated by the bulbs. Since they can contribute to the emergence and spread of various fungal diseases. To protect the plant from pests, it is worth adding wood ash.For the prevention of diseases up to 3 times a year, it is necessary to spray with a solution of 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Secrets of growing lilies

• Lilies love partial shade. Ideal if the top is in the sun and the bottom is in the shade. Near them, you can plant low-growing plants that will shade the "legs" of the flower. Then it will not dry out;
• Asiatic lilies do not like it when lime is added to the soil. It should also be remembered that they need to be transplanted 2 times a year;
• Oriental lily bulbs should not be dry when planting.

Reproduction of lilies

The most popular and easiest way to propagate lilies is by dividing the bulbs during transplanting. This must be done if the plant is several years old. Since when thickened, the flowers become smaller in size. If the bulbs are divided in time, then the next year they will bloom. Some may develop small bulbs. They are found on the stem slightly above the main bulb. It is necessary to carefully separate the bulb from the stem and plant it separately for growing. Such seedlings will begin to bloom only in the second or third year.

There are types of lilies that form bulbs. These are stem bulbs that are found on the stem of the plant. Such bulbs are harvested at the end of summer, when they become dry and can fall off on their own. The bulbs already have roots and they can already be planted shallowly into the ground by 3-4 cm. For the winter, such seedlings should be covered with leaves. These bulbs will bloom in 2-3 years.

Lilies can still reproduce with scales. This is the most difficult way to grow flowers. Chushui is easily separated. It is necessary to process the place of the rupture of the scales. This will require wood ash or potassium permanganate. The scales are planted in the ground, sticking them every 5-6 cm into a sandy cushion poured into the bottom of a shallow trench. Such seedlings must be planted in the spring. In the fall, full-fledged bulbs will already be obtained from them.

Conclusion

There are no restrictions on planting lilies, since there are no particular difficulties in growing and caring for plants. Even people with allergies can admire this flower. The main thing is to choose odorless varieties. And since lilies are not whimsical, growing flowers will not take much time and effort.

Watch the video! Growing lilies - planting and caring for the garden

How to buy lilies

The purchase of planting material is a very important matter - the success of growing lilies depends on timeliness. Before buying bulbs, or ordering through an online store, you need to find out which group of hybrids the selected flower belongs to, perhaps it is even a species lily, there is special care for them.

If you are offered lily bulbs of unknown origin, it is better to refuse to buy - you simply can be mistaken with the choice of location, planting depth and further agricultural technology, but even worse if the lily turns out to be not suitable for your region in terms of frost resistance.

For example, varieties of LA hybrids or Oriental lilies (Orientals) require shelter if the winters are harsh, and American hybrids are generally very thermophilic and can only be grown in southern regions or containers (winter in the basement).

For residents of central Russia, the Urals and Siberia, it is important to know the flowering time when buying lilies, as in Eastern hybrids the flowering period is greatly extended, some varieties bloom earlier, others later, but late-flowering lilies may not have time to ripen by winter (to store nutrients), by the spring they will be exhausted and perished.

If you have the opportunity to examine and touch the bulbs, choose those that are dense, hard, without spots of rotten scales, especially mold, always with living roots at least 5 cm long, and the bulbs of hybrids of snow-white lilies are viable only if they have good long roots ... You should be wary if the bulbs are very dry - a good gardener will not allow this, soaking in water or wrapping in a damp cloth may not help, do not take risks.

Problems with buying lilies arise for flower growers in the event that you buy imported bulbs from Holland out of season. The fact is that in the fall, imported bulbs go on sale only from last year's unsold stocks. In October-November, the Dutch only begin to harvest the bulbs for sale: they dig up, wash, dry them, put them in cold storage facilities, and they come to Russia only from the middle of winter.

Our domestic gardeners, on the contrary, only dig up planting material in the fall. Therefore, in the fall, you need to buy bulbs from friends in the garden, through clubs and forums of lily lovers, and at the end of winter and in spring - lilies from Europe. However, it is very important to buy dormant bulbs. Sometimes the desire to buy a beautiful variety is so great that gardeners, without hesitation, buy bulbs with sprouts, while others are ready to sell lilies immediately after flowering! It is a very common occurrence when on the market you are offered a dug out lily, with a flower that has not yet withered, to prove the authenticity of the variety. You are offered to cut off the peduncle, and plant the bulb immediately.

If you are an experienced florist, then most likely you understand how risky it is to buy lilies with sprouts, and even more so, dug out during flowering. Especially frightening is the recommendation to break off the sprouts and simply plant them in the ground. It is a huge stress for a plant to survive after a broken growth, to rebuild its biological rhythms from vegetation to suspended animation. Lilies that are not strong after flowering recover and take root for a very long time when they are dug up, very often they die! Survivors bloom poorly, slowly grow bulbs.

Planting lilies

We have already written about this stage of growing - read: Planting lilies.

Let us repeat more briefly:

If you bought the bulbs at the end of winter or very early in the spring, before planting in the open ground, you need to store them in the refrigerator, in the vegetable compartment, or where the temperature is between 0 and + 4 ° C, no higher, the longer the storage is supposed to be, the closer the temperature should approach zero - optimally 0 + 1 ° С. The bulbs should be placed in moist sphagnum moss and a plastic bag with holes.

Important: ethylene gas is emitted by almost all fruits and vegetables, and it has a detrimental effect on lily bulbs, so it is necessary to isolate them from fruits and vegetables. Moreover, it is the fruit, not the lily, that needs to be sealed tightly into the bag.

You can keep the lily bulbs in the refrigerator until the sprout reaches 5-6 cm.If the sprout has formed ahead of time, and it is too early to plant it in the open ground, do not wait until the bulbs are depleted in the absence of ultraviolet radiation on chlorous sprouts - plant them in containers and put them on a glassed-in balcony, in a plastic greenhouse, until the frost has passed. Then simply transfer (keeping all the contents of the pot) into the prepared holes in the flower beds.

If you missed the moment when sprouts began to appear on the stored bulbs, and they grew too large, then when planting, place the bulb in the hole at an angle.

If you bought lily bulbs in the fall, plant them immediately, or at most they can wait 3-4 days wrapped in moist moss. If you are planting your own lilies, then there are two important factors to consider:

• It is possible to divide and transplant lilies only 1.5 months after the end of flowering, this time is needed for the bulbs to gain weight, store nutrients, they will grow up, look strong and elastic.
• It is better to divide and plant lilies when the mother bush reaches four and five years of age. By this time, it will grow enough so that the daughter bulbs can easily separate by themselves.

Tubular and other large-sized lilies can be planted less often - once every 6-7 years. Earlier transplantation of lilies may be associated with the defeat of the flower garden with gray rot, the attack of mice that gnaw the entire flower bed, or when the thrips caused serious harm (gnawed on the bulbs), infected with a virus.

Before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in Maxim fungicide-dressing agent. If a Liliaceae (lily) red beetle was seen on your site, it is better to additionally process the bulbs in the Prestige or Prestigerator preparation - it is designed to process potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle, but they also do an excellent job with the lily beetle.Treatment is especially helpful during the spring planting of lilies, since the maximum effect of the drug is observed in the first month (in the fall the bulbs will sleep), but the fully active substance of these insecticides decomposes for more than a year.

We plant lily bulbs in prepared soil to a depth three times the size of the bulbs (excluding Candidum hybrids and unripe children - lightly sprinkle them with earth).

After planting, make a small side around the hole, like a near-trunk circle, so that water after irrigation does not spread into the aisles. Now they need to be watered, especially if the soil is dry.

How to care for lilies

Lilies, like all plants, for growth and flowering need light, warmth, regular moisture, protection from diseases and pests, feeding, mulching, a garter to supports for tall varieties.

We take into account the need for sunlight when choosing a location.

Many species of lilies available for sale: Lilium leichtlinii, Lilium speciosum, Tiger lily (Lilium tigrinum), and Oriental hybrids (Oriental) and Tiger hybrids prefer very light partial shade or bright places where there is sun at least 4-6 hours in the morning or evening.

Asiatic lilies and LA hybrids prefer sunny areas, but grow normally in light partial shade.

LO hybrids, Tubular lilies, OT hybrids prefer full sun. But even they sometimes need shading in the summer on especially hot days. You can organize it by pulling on a mosquito net or installing a beach umbrella next to the plantings.

Lilies more than 50 cm in height must be tied to a support so that they are not broken by the wind.

Mulching

After planting lilies, the soil must be mulched - with straw, peat, coniferous or leaf litter, coniferous sawdust. Of all types of mulch, the best is forest floor. If you have sufficiently acidic soils, use leaf litter (from under birches, aspens, lindens), if it is close to neutral - you can use coniferous, from under the pines. But the needles strongly acidify the soil and are not suitable for mulching Tubular hybrids, Lily regale and others who need a slightly alkaline soil.

By the way, OT hybrids that form supra-luminal roots are especially in need of mulching. As soon as they begin to appear above the surface, add earth.

Mulching is necessary so that the soil does not dry out quickly, the surface roots do not overheat in the heat and do not freeze in winter. In addition, the mulch gradually decomposes and creates a new humus layer. Mulching also allows you not to loosen the aisles - the soil does not compact with mulch, it remains porous.

If you have the opportunity to get horse bedding - sawdust mixed with horse manure, then you can use such mulch only after six months - so that the composition has time to overheat and decompose well.

If you are growing lilies surrounded by soil-backing or undersized plants, mulching is not necessary. The variegated bulbous ryegrass looks very good next to lilies - its variegated leaves are an excellent framing of lilies and protection of the soil. By the way, tall lilies look great and grow surrounded by lower daylilies.

How to water lilies

Lilies prefer to keep the soil constantly in a moderately moist state. So they grow in nature - in the undergrowth, where a large layer of fallen leaves protects the soil from drying out, but does not create excessive moisture - the soil is very porous. Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture - for them stagnation of water in the roots is destructive.

Therefore, watering is carried out as needed - in the absence of rain, about once a week, while water must be poured at the root in the aisles. The best time for watering: morning or before 14-15 o'clock in the afternoon - the earth should have time to dry out from above by night.

Experienced gardeners advise you to be especially careful with watering in the spring, when recurrent frosts or sudden cold snaps are possible at night.In such cases, many people use watering in conjunction with growth regulators and anti-stress drugs - Epin, Zircon, Previscour Energy. This is especially necessary during the budding period.

The greatest need for soil moisture arises in June, when the temperatures are leveled during the day and at night, it is very hot during the day, and also after flowering, when the formation of lily bulbs begins and the accumulation of nutrients before the dormant period.

However, waterlogging of the soil for lilies is destructive, especially when the plantings are dense, if the lilies are planted in a flower garden next to plants that need to be watered and fed frequently (for example, with roses), diseases develop from constant moisture. Most often it is gray rot and botrytis - a fungal disease typical for bulbous (the lower leaves are covered with small spots, turn brown, dry out, the flowering is weak, the disease goes from bottom to top).

The frequency of watering also depends on the type of soil - on light sandy loam soils it is necessary to water more often, on loams (even taking into account their improvement, the introduction of sand and peat) - less often.

After flowering, you must completely stop watering the lilies. An exception is the abnormally hot weather in autumn, when the ground dries up to dust, you can water it 1-2 times after flowering, until the foliage has finally turned yellow.

Feeding lilies

The first thing to remember is that lilies do not tolerate any organic matter! It is possible to add humus to poor soil to improve its composition before planting (laying a flower garden), but it must be well-rotted compost - that is, if you bought a machine of fresh manure, you can use it for flowers no earlier than four years later.

By the way, lilies do not like green fertilizer - freshly cut foliage and weeds, which with love and gratitude take vegetables - tomatoes, cucumbers as a top dressing.

Lilies from all organic matter admit well-rotted leaf litter.

In total, it is enough to feed these flowers three times per season:

• in the spring, you can use calcium nitrate, twice with an interval of 2 weeks (6 g per 1 liter of water)
• during the budding and flowering period - with a complete mineral fertilizer, for example, Fertika Lux, Fertika Universal, or feed with potassium magnesium (1.5 tablespoons per 10 l), feeding every 2 weeks
• after flowering - with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers once

In the fall, you cannot transplant and feed plants at the same time.

Combine all root dressing with watering, do not apply fertilizer on dry ground, only with plenty of water.

In addition to root dressings, lilies sometimes need leaf dressing, if chlorosis appears on young leaves, perhaps there is not enough iron, then you need to spray with iron chelate (just not on a sunny day). Iron deficiency manifests itself on soils with an alkaline and neutral reaction, therefore, lilies, which are grown on such OT hybrids, Tubular lilies, and Candidum hybrids, are the first to suffer. Iron is well absorbed at pH 6 and below.

But in addition to iron, boron and zinc may be lacking on neutral and alkaline soils, therefore, these minerals can also be used for foliar dressing, boron is especially useful, as for vegetables, it is diluted at the rate of 5 g per 5 liters of water for spraying during budding. To compensate for the lack of zinc, add 2.5 g of zinc sulfate per 5 liters of water to the solution.

If your soil is slightly acidic, then chlorosis can cause not an iron deficiency, but a deficiency of molybdenum, use a complex fertilizer that contains this element.

Cut lilies

Sometimes, when gardeners cannot often be in the garden, they tend to cut flowering lilies to take home this beauty in a bouquet. But you need to cut the lilies correctly:

1. Do not cut the flower stalk too low, leave as much of it in the flower bed as possible, otherwise the bulbs will not ripen normally.
2. Powder the place of the cut near the stem remaining in the flower bed with wood ash, then drop a drop of medical glue so that the wound does not rot.

Lilies after flowering

When the lilies fade, remove the withering flowers to prevent the formation of seed pods, the stem itself does not need to be cut!

In autumn, when all the leaves turn yellow, you need to cut off the stems at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground and leave them that way until spring. In the spring they just need to be pulled out of the ground (they practically fall out on their own).

Shelter for the winter

After transplanting lilies in the fall or after final pruning, the beds need to be insulated if winters in your area are harsh.

Usually the shelter is multi-layered: scoop up leaf litter, for example, from under apple and pear trees, cover with spruce branches or peat. You can put plastic wrap on top and press it with stones.

Eastern hybrids (Oriental) especially need shelter for the winter; in the north-western regions of Russia, they should be covered not with foliage, but with a layer of peat of at least 10 cm, then spruce branches.

In the spring, you need to remove the film and spruce branches, and leave the peat or mulch, but it is good to water it with special preparations to increase fertility, for example, Baikal-EM1.

It is important to remove the shelters in a timely manner, before the lilies start to grow, so as not to damage the sprouts or so that the young growth does not dry out.

Similar posts

Lilies are very delicate and beautiful flowers that are very popular among amateur flower growers. Planting garden lilies is not difficult: this perennial plant is very unpretentious.

In order for the lily to delight us with its beauty and feel good in the open field, proper care is required, and of course, follow the rules of reproduction and planting.

Lily: characteristics of the species

Lily (Lilium) is a perennial flowering crop that belongs to the Liliaceae family. The stems of the plant are straight and tall (some varieties reach 1.5 m in height), with small glossy leaves. Flowers can be of different shapes: cup-shaped, funnel-shaped, star-shaped or bell-shaped. However, they always consist of 6 elongated petals and the same number of stamens.

Scheme: types of lilies according to the structure of the stems

Although the word "lily" literally means "completely white", the flowers of modern varieties can have different shades: yellow, orange, red, lilac, lilac, pink. Varieties with a combined color are very popular among summer residents.

The underground part of the plant is a single-tiered (less often two-tiered) root system and a bulb. It is the bulb that is the source of nutrients for the culture, as well as the reproductive organ of the species. About the cultivation of other types of bulbous plants - hyacinths, tulips.

Wild lily - the predecessor of hybrid varieties

When to plant a lily

As you know, lilies can be planted both in spring and in mid-autumn - it all depends on the wishes of the grower.

Autumn planting is considered the most favorable. A low temperature and a sufficient amount of moisture will allow the plant to adapt and take root normally, thus reducing the stress level of the crop. That is why it is better to plant lilies in the southern regions of Russia in October.

Preparing for planting lilies in open ground

However, it is worth noting that most varieties of lilies require exactly spring planting - study the characteristics of the variety you have chosen.

Choosing a place for planting lilies

Before planting a crop in open ground, carefully select a place to grow it. The plant grows well in sunny places that are protected from the wind (if you want to plant a lily near the house, observe which side of it the sun is for most of the day).

Any sunny spot on your backyard is suitable for planting lilies.

When the site is selected, dig up the soil and remove any remaining roots of other plants (especially weeds).Lilies can be planted in the same flowerbed with other flowering plants - the culture will not feel bad from this. The main thing is that the "neighbors" are not too tall and do not create the shadow of a lily. For this reason, you should not plant under trees or bushes.

Soil preparation

Lily does not tolerate drought well, so the soil in which it is planted should be good at allowing moisture to pass through. Most lily varieties like fertile soils with high moisture permeability. Although breeders have also developed varieties that safely tolerate dry and even swampy areas. However, heavy loamy soils and salt marshes should be avoided when cultivating crops.

The optimal soil for planting lilies should consist of layers of gravel, sand and fertile soil.

Whatever the type of soil, it should be remembered that fertilizing the lily is still necessary. Peat fertilizers, humus or rotted compost (1 bucket per 1 m2) are suitable for feeding. If the soil is dominated by sandy impurities, then a good option for improving the quality of the soil would be phosphorus-potassium dressing, which is applied before planting the plant (100 g per 1 m2).

Important! Having well fertilized the soil when planting plants, you will provide them with comfortable conditions for growth and development for the next 2 to 3 years.

By the type of environment, the soil for lilies should be alkaline or slightly acidic. Too acidic environment is not suitable for the plant, therefore it is neutralized with wood ash (also ensures proper drainage of the soil), limestone or chalk (200-300 g per 1 m2).

Planting lilies in open ground

If you decide to plant lilies in the spring, then you should do this when the frosts have already receded, but the dry period has not yet begun. For each region of the country, the optimal time for planting lily bulbs in the ground will be different.

Prepare lily bulbs for planting as follows:

• sort the bulbs, removing spoiled planting material;
• the most viable specimens are completely cleaned of flower scales;
• rinse the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate or foundation (this will get rid of harmful bacteria).

Lily sprout

The planting depth of the bulb is determined depending on the type of soil:

• in heavy soils, small bulbs should be planted to a depth of 5-6 cm, large planting material - at 13-16 cm.
• if the soil is loose, it should be planted 2-4 cm deeper than in the previous example.

Important! Only good quality bulbs with an intact root system are allowed.

After planting is complete, the plants should be fed with organic and mineral fertilizers. If you planted lilies in the fall, then cover the flower bed with dry leaves and an additional layer of soil. This will allow the planting material to avoid freezing.

Care principles

Maintaining optimum soil moisture is the first thing you need to watch out for. Watering is carried out as the soil dries up (accordingly, in dry periods, watering is done more often, and in rainy periods, watering can be excluded altogether). Use the root-watering technique (called strip irrigation): surface irrigation can harm lilies. If necessary, fertilizing can be applied along with watering.

If the summer is rainy, then the lily need not be watered.

In the first year of life, the plants are rather weak. Therefore, in order to improve their development, remove all the buds: the lily will spend too much energy on flowering and, having weakened, will not be able to endure the winter frosts. But in the second and third years after planting, the plant will bloom profusely. Usually, in the fourth year, the flowering intensity decreases - this means that the crop needs feeding. Closer to the fifth year, flowers are divided and transplanted.

Advice! Do not forget to create support for the lilies: these crops often break under the weight of their own stems.

Reproduction and transplantation of lilies

Lilies are propagated by dividing the bulbs.The procedure is carried out at 4-5 years of growth of the lily: the thickening of the bulbous nests by this time is fraught with the cessation of flowering. The lily bulb is divided and each part is planted separately. Care for transplanted bulbs is required the same as for plants in the first year of life. Under favorable conditions, the divided bulbs will bloom within a year.

Schematic: breeding species of lilies

Some varieties of lilies produce baby bulbs. They are attached just above the base of the main bulb. Such bulbs should be carefully separated and planted for growing. These plants will bloom only 2-3 years after planting.

There is also a more complex method of reproduction of lilies - with the help of scales. Small loose growths are carefully separated from the base of the mother bulb and planted in a special sand bed. If the planting of scales was carried out in the spring, then by the fall, bulbs are formed from them.

Popular groups of lilies

When choosing lilies for planting in the country or in the courtyard of a private house, you should pay attention to the following groups of hybrid plants:

Asiatic lily (left) and Candidum lily (right)

• Asian hybrid lilies. Unpretentious winter-hardy varieties, have cup-shaped flowers of white, pink, orange, yellow, as well as multicolored colors.
• Candidum. These varieties are capricious to growing conditions. Flowers have a funnel-shaped or tubular shape, the color is snow-white or yellow. Unlike the previous group, the flowers of these varieties have a strong aroma.

American lily (left) and oriental lily (right)

• American hybrid lilies. The varieties are well suited for breeding in central Russia. They are distinguished by moderate demands on growing conditions. The flowers are turbid with pink or lilac color and bright red dots.
• Oriental hybrid lilies. The varieties are quite resistant to external factors, but at the same time they are highly susceptible to viral and fungal diseases. Flowers of various shapes and colors. Suitable for breeding in the middle lane and southern regions of Russia.

Each of the four groups of lilies includes many varieties with similar characteristics. Choose a group based on the planting conditions and climate in your region. The variety is determined solely at the discretion of the gardener.

How to plant lilies: video

Lily varieties: photo

Lilies are perennial, bulbous plants of the Liliaceae family, common in Asia, Europe and the American continent. The popularity of the plant is associated with beautiful flowering and varietal diversity, but lilies require special care. Let's consider the process of growing lilies in the open field in more detail.

Choosing a site for growing lilies

The choice of the site depends on the varietal affiliation of the lily. For example, Asian varieties grow well in sunny areas, although in partial shade they can feel quite comfortable. Asian lilies are frost-resistant, easy to care for, and grow rapidly.

Japanese, Gorgeous, Reddish and Callous lilies are suitable for partial shade. These varieties prefer to have the upper part of the stem in the sun and the lower part in the shade, and cannot tolerate even the slightest frost. For this reason, ornamental grasses or low flower bed flowers are often planted with lilies of these varieties as a border. They are common in the southern regions. In the middle lane, they are grown in greenhouses.

Tubular types of lilies are unpretentious in care. It is they who are preferred by summer residents. Tubular species practically do not get sick, are not damaged by insects and adapt to any climatic conditions.

If the lily bulbs are from a garden nursery, be sure to consult with experts about the intricacies of care.

All varieties of lilies have general requirements for growing conditions:

• area with light, nutritious soil;
• lilies should not be located in the shade of trees;
• the site must be drained, without moisture stagnation;
• it is advisable to enclose the lilies with a barrier from drafts.

The barrier can be natural or artificial. Artificial barriers include walls of residential and utility buildings, natural ones - garden trees or other tall plants.

Soil preparation

It is necessary to approach the preparation of a site for lilies responsibly, because these flowers grow without transplanting for 3 to 5 years. Lilies prefer light black soil, therefore, when preparing the site, it may be necessary to adjust the soil structure.

Heavy soils are facilitated by the introduction of a peat-humus mixture with sand. All components are taken in equal amounts and added during digging. For depleted soils, 4 kg of humus / 1 m2 will be needed, for podzolic soils - 8 kg / 1 m2.

Basically, lilies prefer neutral soils, but there are species that require slightly alkaline or acidified soil. Before purchasing a particular variety, consult with a specialist on this matter.

If the soil is rich in humus, organic fertilizers can be replaced with mineral additives: 30 ml of superphosphate / 30 ml of urea / 15 ml of nitroammophoska / 1 m2.

Digging is performed to a depth of 40 cm (shovel bayonet). The soil for the lilies is prepared in advance. If you plan to plant in spring, you need to apply fertilizer in the fall, and, conversely, for a winter planting, fertilizer is applied in the spring.

Dates of spring and autumn planting

Even experts are not able to say unequivocally when it is better to plant lilies. In the spring, as well as in the autumn planting, there are advantages and disadvantages.

Spring planting

The advantage of spring planting is the safety of the planting material. The risk of bulbs getting wet, rotting and freezing is minimal. Oriental varieties and tubular hybrids are planted in early spring in March, just after the snow melts. Tibetan and tiger species are planted in the last week of March, and terry hybrids in the first week of April, but, of course, the timing depends on the growing region.

Autumn planting

Autumn planting is preferred by most flower growers, as it has its advantages:

• lack of summer heat;
• no need for regular watering;
• pests are not a threat;
• lilies bloom earlier;
• saving time in spring, when there is a lot of work on the site.

In the fall, planting dates can be adjusted. The bulbs are planted in late September - mid-October. The main thing is that before the onset of frost there must be at least a month so that the bulbs have time to take root.

Planting lilies

Planting lilies can be carried out according to several schemes, in addition, planting material requires careful selection and some preparation.

How to choose healthy bulbs

The pre-planting preparation of the bulbs begins with their inspection and careful selection. Rotten specimens or bulbs on which fungal foci are visible are removed.

Healthy bulbs have:

• cover scales of a uniform color, white or creamy shade, without visible spots and blotches;
• well-developed roots 3 cm - 5 cm long.

If there is not enough seed, you can try to treat the bulbs with the preparations "Fundazol" and "Karbaphos", after cleaning the affected areas. These bulbs are planted in a separate group so as not to infect healthy lilies.

Before planting, the selected material is kept for 20 - 30 minutes in a warm solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. Before soaking, the upper scales are carefully removed from the bulbs.

If the spring planting of lilies is carried out, the bulbs are pre-germinated in containers, which are filled with disinfected fertile soil from the site or an industrial soil mixture especially for lilies.

Bulb planting

Planting lilies with bulbs is carried out according to several schemes: single-line ribbon planting, two-line and three-line.

1. In the first version, the bulbs are planted in one row with a distance between holes of 10 cm - 15 cm and a distance between rows of at least 50 cm.
2. The two-line scheme involves two ribbons of bulbs with a distance between them and the holes for the bulbs of at least 15 cm - 25 cm. The row spacing must be at least 70 cm. This method is used for tall lilies.
3. According to the three-line scheme, they are left between the holes for the bulbs and between the lines of 15 cm, and in the aisle 70 cm.The scheme is chosen depending on the variety, the size of the plot and the general flower arrangement.

How to make a hole and plant an onion correctly:

• The depth of the hole is twice the diameter of the bulb to be planted.
• On heavy soils, a little fine gravel or expanded clay is poured at the bottom of the hole for drainage.
• On sandy loam and sandy soils, a mixture of humus and fertile soil is laid.
• The bulb is placed in the hole, slightly pressing the roots into the ground.
• The hole is filled up and tamped so that a small depression remains for fertilizing and watering.

To protect against pests and diseases, the hole is dusted with a small amount of wood ash.

In the autumn planting, the bulbs are buried a few centimeters lower and protected with a special plastic sheath from rodents. Heat-loving varieties can be protected from frost with a layer of mulch 30 cm high from hay, foliage or straw. It is not recommended to use sawdust, as wood acidifies the soil.

Planting lily seeds

No disease is transmitted through seeds. This breeding method is safer, but much longer. It will take 3-4 years on average to grow flowering lilies from seeds.

The seeds are harvested from healthy flowers or bought at the store. Before planting, it is necessary to determine which type of seeds are: fast or slow germinating. The fast germinating ones will emerge in the first year. Slowly growing by autumn give only a small bulb.

The planted seeds germinate unevenly, some can sprout in the first year, some - only in the next season.

You can sow in open ground, but sowing in containers increases the germination of seeds.

If the seeds are planted directly into the ground, it is important to choose an area where no bulbous crops have previously been planted. Sowing is carried out in a tape manner. The distance between the lines should be at least 15 cm. A thickened planting will lead to the development of infections and the death of immature seedlings.

Slow growing varieties are planted in the winter immediately after harvesting the seeds. Humus is applied to the garden a month before planting, and before the onset of frost, the soil is mulched to keep warm with foliage or hay. With the beginning of the growing season, lilies will need standard care: watering, loosening, weeding and feeding.

Seeds are laid in containers in the last days of February - the first ten days of March. Expanded clay is laid at the bottom of the containers, on it is a soil mixture for lilies: peat, humus and fertile soil in equal quantities. Humus can be replaced with rotted plant compost.

At home, the seeds germinate after about 20 days, the optimum temperature for lily seedlings is + 18 ° C - + 25 ° C. The seedlings are looked after until September, after which the resulting bulbs are planted in unprotected soil.

Lily care rules

Lush buds of lilies can be achieved by following the usual care rules:

1. In the first year, lilies do not need spring feeding.
2. Fertilizers are applied once per season, after flowering. But this is only if fertilizer was applied before planting.
3. Before flowering, tall varieties are recommended to be tied up.
4. After flowering, dried buds are removed.

Watering

Lilies need moderate watering. Stagnant water will lead to rotting of the bulbs, a lack - to drying out of the leaves and improper development of the peduncle.

The greatest amount of moisture is needed in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season, when the plant grows green mass.

In summer, watering is reduced. Water to the depth of the bulbs as the soil dries up at the lower leaves. To extend the flowering period, watering is again reduced to 1 - 2 times a week.After the end of flowering, watering is increased again so that the bulbs can store food for the winter.

Top dressing

In annual plants, the only top dressing is performed after flowering with complex fertilizers or with the use of potassium-phosphorus agrochemicals.

In plants aged 2 - 4 years, the first feeding is performed after the snow melts in March with nitrogen fertilizers, for example, ammonium nitrate: 20 g / 1 m2 of a flower garden.

You can use a low concentration mullein infusion so as not to harm the bulbs.

The second feeding falls on the period of bud formation. It is convenient to use complex compositions of ammophoska or nitroammophoska at the rate of 30 ml of fertilizer / 10 l. The third top dressing - after flowering: 30 g superphosphate / 30 g potassium salt / 1 m2.

How to cut flowers correctly

Usually, lilies are not cut and left to bloom in the flower bed to strengthen the bulbs and ensure abundant flowering next year. But sometimes you want to make a bouquet and decorate a room or living room with lilies.

To reduce the negative impact of pruning, you need to learn how to cut flowers correctly:

• cut lilies only in the morning hours or with the onset of dusk; during the day, you can cut flowers only in cloudy weather;
• use a sterile tool for cutting; alcohol or a pharmacy iodine solution is used to process the knife;
• do not cut off the stem at the very base, leave a third of the stem and adjacent leaves for proper nutrition of the bulbs;
• cut at an angle, after watering or rainfall, the water will not stagnate on the stem.

Transplant timing

Most lilies will need to be transplanted approximately once every 3 to 5 years. But some varieties, for example, Martogon, are transplanted once a decade. And the common varieties of Tubular, as well as Asiatic lilies are planted in a year, these hybrids grow so quickly.

Thickened plantings are planted in spring or at the end of the growing season in autumn, it all depends on the climate and varietal affiliation of the grown lilies. Florists are more fond of an autumn transplant, when the bulbs are practically in a state of complete dormancy.

But what to do with Asian and Tubular hybrids, which fade a month before the onset of the first frost and simply do not have time to take root? In this case, replanting is carried out in the spring, when the soil warms up to a temperature of + 10 ° C, and the average daily air temperature will be at least + 15 ° C.

The growing region is also taken into account when planting. In the middle lane, autumn transplantation is carried out at the end of August - the first half of September, in the southern regions, work can be postponed to October, and in the northern regions, it is carried out immediately after flowering.

Asian varieties are completely unlimited in terms of spring transplantation. They are transplanted from the beginning of spring until the time of flowering. Water the lily abundantly after transplanting and tear off the buds to improve survival.

Reproduction by scales

The most common breeding method for lilies is vegetative - bulbs. Growing from seeds is less common. But there is another non-standard method - reproduction by scales, when the bulb is divided into scales and planted in the ground. Abundant watering promotes germination and development of a full-fledged plant.

Features of cultivation after distillation

There may be several reasons why lilies do not bloom. Scorching sun, insufficient watering, irregular feeding, disease-damaged bulbs for planting. All these problems can be corrected by replanting the plant, increasing watering and applying fertilizers on time.

It should be noted that in the first year, lilies may not bloom at all or form a small number of buds. This is normal and is caused by insufficient rooting and development of the bulbs.

Despite the absence of buds, it is necessary to carry out the usual care of the lilies: feed at the end of the growing season, water and loosen the soil in time.With proper care for the second year, the lily will certainly delight you with beautiful buds.

Newcomers to floriculture find lilies a difficult flower to grow. You can see that caring for lilies is no more difficult than for other bulbous plants. Pick up several varieties with different flowering times and a beautiful lily will be decorating your garden all summer long.

Good day to all blog readers!

Today we'll talk about the beautiful lily - planting and caring for it in the open field. Lily flowers are very popular among gardeners for their unpretentiousness, bright color, large flowers. These beautiful flowers are a symbol of purity and innocence, and are also associated with the royal house of France. Lilies are depicted on coats of arms, coins, in ancient temples and in Egyptian hieroglyphs. Now the lily is a frequent and desired flower in our gardens. And now more about

How to plant a lily and properly care

Content:

• Varieties of lilies
• Planting lilies in spring and autumn
• Lily planting video
• Care - highlights
• Flower propagation
• Diseases and pests
• Shelter flowers for the winter

Varieties of lilies with photos and descriptions

There are many forms and types of lilies. Experts divide them into main groups by origin and cultivation characteristics.

Asian hybrids

This is the most popular and largest group of hybrids. They are the most unpretentious, frost-resistant, grow on any soil. Bloom begins in early July, late varieties at the end of the month, flowering lasts 2 weeks. Flowers have no smell. Many children grow up - they multiply quickly.

Hybrids Martagon - forest lily

Frost-resistant lilies, grow on any land. They prefer partial shade, but grow well in sunny places. They grow in one place for a long time - a decade or more - they do not like transplants. the first year or two after planting may not bloom - to master. Blooms in late June on a high arrow up to 180 cm.

Candidium hybrids (Lilium candidum)

Lily is snow-white. Grows naturally in rocky areas in humid climates. In garden plots, you can grow on any soil, preferably in the sun, but with protection from the wind. The barrel is high and inflexible - it can break from the harsh wind. The white lily is widely used in folk medicine - all of its parts are medicinal. There are few varieties in this section - they are all snow-white or yellowish in color.

American hybrids

A rare group of hybrids. Although there are many interesting exotic flowers of various shapes and colors among them. They belong to rhizome lilies.

Longiflorum hybrids (Longiflorum)

Heat-loving plants - in the conditions of the Middle Belt, the Urals and Siberia, they can only be grown with good shelter. They feel great when spring forcing from bulbs at home or in greenhouses. Beautiful large (15-20 cm - flower length) fragrant bell-shaped flowers attract gardeners, but these hybrids are too whimsical and gentle for our climate.

Tubular and Orleans hybrids (Trumpet)

Very fragrant hybrids - in the evening the smell spreads to ten meters. Beautiful elongated large flowers on a high thin stem (120-200 cm) with small leaves. They like sunny places with good drainage, neutral or alkaline soils, do not tolerate acidic soils.

Oriental hybrids (Oriental)

These hybrids have the largest and most beautiful flowers with a very strong aroma. Luxurious petals often have wavy edges. The color is white or pale pink, there is a contrasting bright crimson with a white border. The eastern group of lilies does not have yellow, orange, cream flowers. in our climate, growing them is problematic, since they do not tolerate frost. They need to be either well covered or dug out for the winter. They grow mainly in warm southern climates.

Tiger Woods variety Stargazer variety

Other LA-, LO-, OT-, OA-hybrids

LA hybrids (Longiflorum-Asian hybrids)

Obtained by crossing Asiatic and Longiflorum (Longiflorum) lilies. A very popular color group.From the Asians, they took winter hardiness, and from Longiflorum, the size of the flower and the special waxy structure of the petals. It is usually a tall plant with bright, clear, up-looking flowers with wide petals. They winter well, you don't even need to cover for the winter with a successful planting. It is better to choose a place where a lot of snow falls in winter. They breed well by children.

Variety Suncrest

LO-hybrids (Longiflorum-Oriental)

Obtained by crossing Longiflorum and Oriental hybrids. Tall, beautiful plants with large flowers on strong stems. Like orientals, they feel better in greenhouses, in greenhouses, and are great for forcing.

Wendella variety

OT hybrids (Oriental-Trumpet)

A mixture of oriental species lilies (mostly of Japanese origin) and tubular hybrids. The plants are strong, tall and unusually beautiful. the main shades are yellow, cream, lemon and their combination with raspberry, red. That is, those that are absent in oriental hybrids. These lilies have a pleasant, delicate aroma. Earlier flowering than oriental hybrids.

Lavon variety

OA hybrids (Oriental-Asiatic)

The most suitable group of hybrids for our Ural climate. And for Siberia, it will also be interesting, for sure. These flowers have absorbed all the best from their "parents" - the winter hardiness of Asians is combined with the luxurious appearance of oriental lilies. But there are not very many varieties yet. The color scheme is mainly orange-red.

On a note! It is very difficult for all LO-, OT-, OA-hybrids to get offspring. Babies grow very little and slowly. Therefore, they are difficult to reproduce.

Species lilies

This group includes the rest of the various lilies. Daurskaya, Kudrevataya.

Lily Henry is winter-hardy and unpretentious.

Dwarf lily - also tolerates frost well, enchants with its miniature beauty and fragrant flowers.

My grandmother always had a tiger lily. Bright orange turban-shaped flowers with a black speck and many black babies-bulbs in the axils are the calling card of this lily. She became the ancestor of many hybrids. They differ in color, absence or presence of children. Caring for her is similar to the Asian one - it is unpretentious and winter-hardy.

Planting lilies in spring and autumn

Almost all lilies love to grow in full sun, but can tolerate light shade. It is better if the lower part of the bush is in the shade, and the top with flowers in the sun. For this, lilies are planted between low perennials or lilies are planted with annuals.

Boarding time

The best time for planting is September for the Central strip and the Urals, October for more southern regions. In cool weather and wet ground, lilies will root well and prepare for winter, and will begin to grow at full strength in the spring.

You can plant lily bulbs in spring, but then they may not bloom in the first year, or the flowers will be small. In dry weather, water them well. In the spring, they try to choose the time after the frost has receded, but before the dry period - the middle, end of May for the Urals.

Planting site and soil preparation

Lily beds are prepared for many years, so you need to immediately choose the right place. Drafts, lowlands, shade, close groundwater - all this must be excluded when planting lily flowers. Elevated sunny warm corners remain.

For a lily to feel good, you need not only a sunny place, but also protection from the wind. You can make a flower bed on the south side of the house or garden house.

Or plant lilies in front of perennial ornamental shrubs. Just not under tall trees, they will create too much shadow.

The soil is well dug before planting, weeds are removed. Many lily species prefer neutral soils. Also, the land for planting should be light, airy and nutritious. It is good to add humus when digging, be sure to rotted. Mineral fertilizers can be successfully replaced by ash.The addition of fertilizers will help plants grow successfully for several years and delight you with flowering.

Important! Do not add fresh manure when planting lilies and other bulbs.

Some types of lilies prefer slightly acidic soils.

Planting bulbs

Before planting, you need to prepare the planting material:

1. Go through and carefully examine all the bulbs. Remove the sick and injured.
2. Hold for 5-10 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This will rid the bulbs of harmful bacteria.

Planting depth is based on the depth of the height of three bulbs. This is about 10-12 cm. But for heavy soils, you need to slightly reduce the planting depth, and for light, sandy soils, increase.

It is better not to deepen the capricious LO-, OT-hybrids based on the eastern ones when planting. So they spend a lot of energy in the spring to break through to the light. And then there is little strength left for flowering. Better to plant them at a depth of 6-7 cm and cover well in the fall. You can cover the bed in the fall with oilcloth so that the wintering site is dry. When dry, with sufficient (20-25 cm) cover with spruce branches or leaves, the most whimsical types of lilies grow and bloom well.

When planting in spring, it is good to water, and not to water in autumn - cover with leaves for better wintering.

How to plant lily bulbs video

Lily care - basic rules

Knowing and observing the basic points of caring for lilies, flowering will delight you for many years.

1. Watering. In dry periods and with dry springs and winters with little snow, lilies can be watered, and in other cases, the lilies have enough moisture, which the bulbs have accumulated in the spring, after the snow melts.
2. If necessary, watering should be watered at the root.
3. Watch out for weeds and weed and loosen crops in time.
4. When cutting flowers, you need to try to leave more leaves - they help accumulate nutrients for the bulbs for a successful winter.
5. When planted in spring in the first summer, the flowers are still weak, so it is better to remove the flowers for better growth. Fortified bulbs for the second year will delight you with all their beauty.
6. Usually, after the fourth year, the flowers become smaller and for 5-6 years the lilies need to be transplanted and the bulbs must be divided.
7. For high peduncles, you need to make supports and tie them up.
8. After flowering and complete drying of the stem and leaves, the lilies are cut off, leaving a stump of 15 cm above the ground. In late autumn, in front of the shelter, they also remove it, carefully pulling it out of the ground.

Reproduction of lilies

Lilies reproduce in different ways - the main one: dividing the bulbs. You can also grow new plants from scales and grow from small onion bulbs that form on the stem.

The division of the bulbs is carried out 5 years after planting. If you grow lilies in one place for a long time, then the bulbs become smaller, oppress each other and the flowering becomes not the same as the first years.

The onions are separated from each other by hand or with a knife. Each is seated separately.

They look after young plantings of lilies. Water, weed, loosen. Under favorable conditions, new bulbs bloom the next year.

Some varieties of lilies develop onion babies on a stem underground. They are separated and planted for growing in loose fertile soil.

Many lilies form in the leaf axils of the bulbous babies. They can also be planted to obtain full-fledged bulbs.

When planted in spring and autumn, full-fledged bulbs will already grow.

When replanting old landings, prepare a place for future landings in advance. After digging up, do not expose the bulbs to the sun to prevent them from drying out. Try to plant right away. You can cover the onions with a sun cloth with a short wait.

If it is not possible to plant them right away, then wrap them in wet newspapers or wet moss and put them in a paper bag on the lower shelf of the refrigerator. This will keep the bulbs fresh for several days.

Reproduction of lilies with scales video

Many new plants can be obtained from bulb scales. You need to put the scales of the bulbs in a bag with moss, sawdust, loose earth with peat or sand.Moisten the substrate a little from a spray bottle and tie a bag, but not tightly.

So the scales lie in a warm place for a couple of months. Small onions are formed on them, which, together with the scales, are planted for growing in the ground.

For details on this breeding method, see the video.

Pests and diseases of lilies

Lilies have pests. The main ones are the onion root mite, the onion leaf beetle, and the purple scoop. The main methods of control are prevention.

It is necessary to weed well the plantings from weeds, remove the remnants of the grass so that the pests do not have favorable conditions for reproduction. You need to collect bugs when they appear.

Also, planting the prevention of diseases and root mites - pickling the bulbs in manganese or karbofos (keep 5 g per liter of water for 30 minutes). And warming up in hot water (so that the hand can endure a little) for 5 minutes. The bulbs are processed before planting.

With improper care, thickened plantings, lilies can be affected by fungal diseases: fusarium, rust, gray rot. The bulbs begin to rot, and the leaves turn yellow and wither.

Prevention and treatment consists of spraying with fungicides.

Viral diseases are rare and incurable. Such plants are dug up and burned.

Shelter of lilies for the winter

Lilies planted shallow, for example white, are covered until frost. The rest can be covered after the ground freezes by 3-4 cm.

Covering lilies in autumn with leaves or spruce branches, we will not only save them from freezing in winter, but also help to wake up later in the spring so as not to get frozen. If you cover the lilies already on slightly frozen ground and do not open early in the spring, then in the spring they will later start growing.

Lilies should overwinter in dry soil so as not to rot. To do this, during a rainy autumn, cover the area with lilies with oilcloth so that it is dry.

From late frosts, which may be in May, June, you can hide seedlings under covering material or bags.

In general, Asian lilies and LA hybrids do not need shelter and winter well in our climate, but eastern lilies and their hybrids need warming for the winter.

I wish you to grow beautiful lilies, let them delight you with flowering and aroma. Now you know how to plant and care for them.

Best regards, Sophia Guseva.

Interspecific lily hybrid - Algarve cultivar

Lily is a decoration of many gardens and is very popular with flower growers all over the world. Everyone dreams of growing lily flowers in their garden, planting and caring for which is not difficult and affordable, but requires preliminary preparation.

Choosing a variety and bulbs of lilies

When choosing planting material, you need to make sure that it will match the selected variety, healthy, and suitable for growing in your area. In the issue of varietal compliance of lilies, one can only hope for the seller's conscientiousness, but the species and quality of the bulbs can be determined by their appearance.

The best varieties of lilies for the garden

The genus of lilies is represented by more than 80 wild and cultivated species around the world. Their varietal diversity is even more impressive - about 8000 varieties and hybrids, each of which is unique in its own way.

Throughout Russia, including Siberia and the Urals, summer residents practice the cultivation of lilies of Asian hybrids. These varieties are frost-resistant, grow quickly and are not demanding to care for. They bloom very profusely in June - July. The peculiarity of Asians is the lack of odor in flowers. The most famous varieties of this group are Marlene, Top Gunn, Lollipop, Yeti, Flore Pleno, Daira, Sorbet.

Popular Asian hybrid - Top Gunn variety

Oriental hybrids of lilies are more capricious when growing. They do not tolerate low temperatures poorly, therefore they prefer to grow them in the southern zone of Russia and in greenhouses of the Moscow region. They are distinguished by fragrant flowers of extraordinary beauty, up to 30 cm in diameter.The Eastern varieties include the following varieties: Casablanca, Barbados, Kassandra, Mona Lisa, Double Surprise, Magic Star.

Interspecific OT-hybrid of lily Brazil

Lily Kudrevataya (Martagon) is famous for its unpretentious cultivation. Martagon hybrids are widespread in the northern regions of our country, especially varieties such as Beyhouse, Markhan, Hyson, Gay Light. At the base, the leaves of this type of lily are collected in a whorl, and the high peduncle is strewn with many turban-shaped flowers.

The right variety is the key to easy care

That is why summer residents prefer tubular varieties. They are not affected by diseases and are unpretentious, and long, up to 1.5 m peduncles with many large flowers of various colors will become an exquisite decoration of your flower bed.

Determine the type of lily on the bulb

Experienced gardeners know that each group of lily hybrids has its own requirements for the composition of the soil, the illumination of the site and has its own frost resistance threshold. So, the cultivation of lilies in the open ground of the Asian group and LA hybrids is possible everywhere, and the eastern varieties do not tolerate wintering well; slightly alkaline soil is suitable for growing tubular lilies, and slightly acidic soil for OT hybrids.

The appearance of the bulb will help to determine which group the lily belongs to:

• White bulbs, sometimes with yellow and pink blotches, are characteristic of the Asian and Longiflorum (LA) groups;
• Oriental and Oriental (OT) lilies have large yellow, rarely purple bulbs;
• The bulbs of tubular lilies are purple in color.

Choosing a healthy bulb

When buying lilies, it is important to correctly determine the quality of the planting material, since bulbs infected with fungal diseases will cause a lot of trouble and can infect flowers already growing in your flower beds.

Choosing the right lily bulbs

• The bulb must be firm, juicy, free from damage and signs of decay.
• Planting lilies, the bulbs of which are dry, do not have sprouts and root growth, will not bring the desired result. They need very careful care, and it is not known when flowering will come.
• Living roots must be at least 5 cm in size.
• Bulbs less than 3 cm in diameter will not bloom until two years after planting. The larger the bulb, the more luxuriant the lily color will be. The optimum bulb diameter is 12-16 cm.

When to buy bulbs

Lilies are planted both in autumn and spring. When choosing lilies that are planned to be planted in the fall, it is important to consider that they need to be planted as early as possible, leaving a sufficient time reserve before frost for rooting. Lilies, the cultivation and care of which this year was correct, begin to be dug up from the end of August. It is advisable to purchase bulbs during this period.

Healthy lily bulbs in spring have sprout and live roots

Be careful when buying bulbs!

Look out for the sprouting bulbs that go on sale in the fall. Most likely, they were not planted in the spring in the ground, and they missed one life cycle. Once in the ground, they will immediately move into growth and freeze out at the first subzero temperatures on the ground.

Buying lily saplings

Planting lilies in summer is possible, especially when it comes to Asian hybrids and Candidum. They are sold as seedlings with a clod of earth, often blooming. It is much easier to pick up a flower in this case - all its beauty is visible to the eye, and there is no likelihood of obtaining non-varietal planting material.

Lily seedlings for summer planting

Don't buy lily saplings after distillation!

Seedlings are often sold in June and July after forcing. In this case, the bulbs have passed the life cycle in artificial conditions. In the open field, they will hurt, and they will be able to bloom only after a few years. The cost of such planting material is not high, which is a temptation for many novice flower growers.

Preparation of soil and bulbs, rules for planting lilies

The correct site selection, soil preparation and planting of bulbs are critical to the successful cultivation of lilies. If you approach these stages responsibly, lilies will grow well and delight with flowering in the garden for more than one year.

Site selection

The choice of a site for growing largely depends on the type of lilies and their requirements for certain conditions:

• Asiatic, oriental, and pipe lilies prefer sunny areas with no through-winds. Partial shading will not affect the growth and flowering of these lilies. If the light in the garden is not the same throughout the day, it is preferable to plant the lilies on the east side so that they receive as much sunlight as possible before lunchtime.
• Curly lilies (Martagon) grow well and bloom in partial shade, especially when the leaf rosette is completely shaded and the flower stalks are in the sun.

To shade the bulbs during the summer, it is recommended to plant lilies near low-growing perennials (hosta, daylilies, daisies). In this combination, flowering lilies will stand out and look bright, and the bulb will remain in the shade, protected from overheating and drying out. In shady areas under trees and dense shrubs, lilies are stretched out, their stem is thin, and flowering is scarce and belated. Such plants very often get sick, and the bulbs die.

Choosing a site for lilies in the penumbra of conifers

The best place to plant lilies

Preference for planting lilies should be given to elevated areas or plains. In the lowlands, the bulbs can get wet, be affected by fungal diseases, and in winter they are more likely to freeze.

Soil preparation

Lilies feel comfortable on garden or vegetable garden land, well-drained and without high groundwater. Peat or humus is introduced into sandy soils, and dense clay soil is facilitated by the introduction of coarse-grained river sand.

Preparing the soil for planting lilies

Lilies grow best when planted and cared for in moderately acidic soil.

• Moderately alkaline soil reaction (pH 7.0-8.0) is favorable for growing Snow-white and Curly lilies.
• Asiatic and Oriental lilies grow well on soils with neutral acidity.
• Tubular lily also has preferences - its varieties with pink flowers bloom brighter and more beautifully on slightly acidic soils (pH 6.0-6.5).

How to regulate acidity

Lime, chalk, ash or dolomite flour are added to lower the pH level. Heather earth, peat, acetic acid or colloidal sulfur will help increase the acidity.

The soil for lilies is prepared in advance: in autumn - for spring planting, in summer - for autumn planting. They dig it to a depth of 35-40 cm, turning over the layers. For digging into the soil, fertilizers are applied per m²:

• 1 bucket of humus, rotted manure or compost. The introduction of fresh manure is not permissible, since lilies in such soil will rot;
• 1-2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, urea, nitroammophoska;
• 1 liter of wood ash solution, except for those areas where Martagon and Candidum lilies are planned to be planted.

Applying this amount of fertilizer to the soil will provide the lilies with the nutrients they need for good growth and abundant flowering.

Preparing the bulbs for planting

The pre-planting preparation of lilies is necessary to minimize the damage to the bulbs by fungal diseases. Dried onions are pre-soaked in water at room temperature for several hours.

Preparing lily bulbs for planting

The onions are etched for 15-20 minutes in one of the solutions:

• pink solution of potassium permanganate;
• 2 g karbofos per 1 liter of water;
• 2 g of foundation per 1 liter of water;
• a special preparation for etching bulbous plants before planting Maxim or Vitaros.

After processing, the bulbs are dried in the shade.

Planting lilies in the ground

Early autumn planting of lilies in open ground is considered the most successful. Planted during this period, they will have time to take root well before frost and are guaranteed to bloom next year.The exceptions are Oriental lilies and OT hybrids. They bloom late, by September the bulbs are not yet ready for planting, and during the October planting they will not have time to take root. Therefore, they are planted in the spring when the soil warms up well.

The planting depth of the bulbs depends on several factors:

• Bulb size. The larger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be planted. The minimum depth is 10 cm. Lily bulbs should not be embedded in the ground deeper than 25 cm. Bulb babies are sown in furrows 5-7 cm deep.
• Soil composition. On heavy soils, the bulbs must not be deeply deepened.
• Lily variety. For undersized plants, the planting depth is about 10 cm, for tall ones - 15-20 cm.

Planting lilies in the fall

A distance of 20 cm is maintained between the bulbs. Lilies of the Asian group grow rapidly, therefore, when planted, they stand at least 30 cm between them. Pictures of multi-colored lilies, planted in 5-7 bulbs in one wide hole, look beautiful.

Lilies are planted in autumn and spring in pre-prepared holes, on a 5-7 cm "pillow" of river sand. The roots are evenly distributed, after which the bulbs are covered with earth and watered abundantly.

Spring planting material can often be found with a twisted sprout. There is nothing terrible in this, but you need to place the bulb in the hole so that the top of the sprout is vertically above the ground. The bulb itself will take the desired position as the lily grows.

If for the reproduction of lilies it is necessary to obtain a large number of children, the bulbs are planted "on the side". In this position, the nest of bulbs will form faster and the number of daughter bulbs will increase.

It is advisable to mulch the planting of lilies, but for each varietal group a separate mulch is used:

• Asian, Eastern, LA and OT hybrids are mulched with peat, sawdust, pine needles;
• Plantings of Snow-White, Tubular and Curly varieties are mulched with leaf humus, cut grass, and ash is also added.

Features of summer landing

Asian and LA hybrids can be planted in summer. This also applies to the Snow White Lilies, the bulbs of which are dormant in July-August. Lilies are planted in July using the transshipment method.

Planting lily bulbs in summer

Bulbs must be dug out with a clod of earth. A volumetric hole (50x50x50 cm) is prepared in advance, to which 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate and mix it with the ground. The bottom of the hole is covered with river sand with a layer of 5-7 cm, after which a seedling is placed and sprinkled with earth mixed with humus or rotted manure. The seedling is watered abundantly and, if it is tall, tied to a support. The existing buds and flowers are cut off so that the lily spends all its strength on rooting.

Planting lilies in summer video

Summer Lily Care

Growing lilies in the country is not burdensome. Caring for them comes down to regular moistening and loosening of the soil, as well as periodic application of top dressing.

Caring for lilies in the summer, at the stage of bud formation

Watering

The soil under the lilies should be moderately moist throughout the growing season. Moisture stagnation will lead to decay of the bulbs, while lilies tolerate short-term drought painlessly. Lack of watering for a long time will lead to wilting of the lower leaves and poor development of the peduncle.

Drying of the lower leaves of lilies due to insufficient watering

The basic rule of watering lilies

Lilies experience the greatest need for moisture in the spring, during active growth. In summer, they are not watered so abundantly, moistening the soil to the depth of the bulbs. Surface watering will not be beneficial. In this case, the plant will feel thirsty, and a crust will form on the surface of the soil, which does not allow air to pass through well.

Watering lilies during budding and flowering

It is advisable to water the lilies before lunch at the root, avoiding water getting on the leaves. During flowering, the amount of watering can be reduced. It is enough to shed the soil 25-30 cm deep, once every two weeks.

Loosening the soil

Garden lilies, care and planting of which are done correctly, need constant access to air to the root system. Loosen the soil very carefully, taking care not to damage the additional stem roots located at the surface of the soil. At the same time, weeds are removed.

During heavy rains, sand is washed out of the soil, it clogs and hardens. In this case, river sand is poured under the lilies, which, during loosening, mixes with the earth and makes it lighter.

Mulching the plantings with straw or wood shavings will help to facilitate the care of lilies in the summer. Also, you can maintain constant soil moisture and protect the bulbs from overheating by planting low-growing perennials near the lilies.

Mulching lilies with wood chips

Top dressing in summer

If you have an automatic irrigation system set up, as well as planting has been made in the prepared soil, and care for the lilies is practically not required - in the first year the plants need a single application of fertilizers.

Complex fertilizing is poured under the flowers during budding, using equal amounts of Ammophoska and Nitroammophoska, at the rate of 30g / m². Dissolving them in 10 liters of water.

Caring for lilies after flowering

Many gardeners have a question about how to care for lilies after flowering. It was during this period that the plant is most susceptible to diseases, since all the forces went to the peduncles.

Watering

After flowering, the watering rate is increased, trying to ensure constant soil moisture at a depth of 25-30 cm. From the second half of August, watering is completely stopped, since the soil must be dry for successful wintering of the bulbs.

Most of all, this applies to Oriental and OT hybrids. After flowering, the soil is thoroughly dried. In September, flower beds should be covered with plastic wrap to keep it dry during prolonged autumn rains and thaws in winter. The shelter is removed in early spring after the snow melts, during fertilization.

Top dressing

After flowering, lilies need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used as top dressing at 10 and 30 g per m², respectively. Dilute them in 10 liters of water and water the lilies with this solution under the root, after preliminary watering with clean water.

Feeding lilies with organic matter

Feeding lilies with organic matter

Lily bulbs do not have a protective shell, like tulips and other bulbs, so organic fertilizers must be applied very carefully. Nutrient solutions based on manure or slurry are prepared in low concentration: 0.3-0.5 liters per bucket of water. Over-saturation of the soil with organic fertilizers will lead to rotting and subsequent death of the bulb.

For wintering lily bulbs, the same feeding as in summer is done in spring when the snow melts. Fertilizers are applied dry on the crust of thawed ice and get to the roots of the bulb gradually, stimulating its awakening, growth and development.

Pruning

Withered flowers are cut off from the peduncle. It is impossible to hesitate with this, since seed boxes will begin to form on the peduncle, and the plant will spend all its strength on their development.

Caring for lilies after flowering includes pruning the stem. It is carried out only after the leaves and peduncle have completely dried out, since they are a conductor of nutrients to the bulbs. In September, the stem is cut "on a stump" 10-15 cm long. In late autumn, in October or November, this stump is carefully pulled out so that cold air does not enter the bulb through it.

After the stem of the lily has dried, it is cut off

You need to cut flowering lilies for bouquets correctly!

The cut of the peduncle is made at an acute angle so that the remaining leaves completely or partially cover it. An oblique cut is necessary for water to drain off when it rains. If the cut is made even, a large amount of moisture will get through it to the bulb, which will provoke its rotting.

Protection of lilies from diseases and pests

Lilies can be affected by pests, the most dangerous of which are:

• Onion root mite. Prevention and protection - planting healthy material; pickling the bulbs before planting with karbofos (5 g / 1 l of water for 30 minutes); heat treatment of bulbs in water of 50 ºС for 5 minutes.
• Onion leaf beetle. Fighting - timely weed harvesting; collecting beetles; chlorophos treatment (10 g per bucket of water)
• Purple scoop. Fighting - timely removal of weeds and plant residues.

Signs of fungal diseases on lily leaves

Often, lilies, planting and caring for which were carried out in violation of the rules of agricultural technology, are affected by fungal diseases such as fusarium, rust, gray rot. In this case, the bulbs begin to rot, and the leaves become stained and wither. If the development of fungi is allowed to take its course, the plant will die.

To combat fungal diseases, the bulbs are etched with fungicides before planting: Fundazol, Topsin, Euporen, Bavistin. Plants are sprayed with the same drugs during the growing season if the first signs of disease appear.

Viral diseases of lilies are much less common, but there are currently no effective means to combat them. Infected plants are removed and destroyed off-site.

Lily care after flowering video

Features of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals

Today lilies are successfully grown in Siberia and beyond the Urals. Asian and LA hybrids, Martagon lilies and tubular hybrids are cultivated there. Some varieties of OT hybrids and oriental lilies are able to winter in these regions under cover. Planting and caring for the Urals and Siberia is not much different from growing lilies in regions with a warm climate.

Shelter of lilies for the winter in Siberia and the Urals

A feature of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals is their shelter for the winter. The beds are insulated with humus, a layer of at least 7 cm, or fallen leaves - about 20 cm. Oriental lilies and OT hybrids are additionally covered with plastic wrap or agrofibre so that the soil remains dry in winter. Curly lilies calmly endure winters in Siberia without shelter.

The lily shelter is removed immediately after the snow melts so that the sprouts do not appear early and do not freeze during late frosts. If, nevertheless, the lilies have sprouted, and the threat of frost has not passed, they are covered with spruce branches or straw.

Transplanting and dividing bulbs

In order for a lily, planting and caring for which in the open field does not require special skills, to develop well and bloom, its bulbs must be regularly transplanted to a new place. Otherwise, their stems become lethargic, and the flowers become smaller. The frequency of the necessary transplant depends on the type of lily grown:

• Curly and American lilies without transplanting are grown up to 15 years.
• Oriental and Long-flowered lilies, OT and La hybrids are transplanted every 3-5 years.
• Asiatic and Tubular lilies can be replanted every year as they grow intensively.

Transplant in the fall

The optimal time for transplanting a lily, the care of which was organized according to all the rules, is early autumn. The bulbs are dug up in August or early September, a month and a half after flowering. By this time, they have accumulated a sufficient amount of nutrients and quickly take root in a new place. With late autumn planting, there is a high probability that the bulbs will not have time to take root and will die in the frozen ground.

Children are separated from the bulbs dug out for transplantation. Often they fall off on their own, but if the daughter bulbs are tightly collected in the nest, they are cut off with a clean knife, making sure to keep a part of the bottom on each bulb. Dividing the bulbs is the easiest and most reliable way to reproduce lilies, in which all the maternal qualities of the variety are preserved.

Dry and rotting scales are removed from the bulbs, and too long roots are cut off.They are treated with antifungal drugs: 1% solution of potassium permanganate, 2% iodine, 1% ferrous sulfate, foundation. Then they are dried in a shaded, well-ventilated place.

It is advisable to plant lilies in a new place within a week after digging so that the bulbs do not dry out. Small daughter bulbs are planted separately for growing to a depth of 5-7 cm and after a year or two, they are again transplanted to a permanent place.

Spring transplant

Oriental and OT hybrids of lilies are transplanted in the spring, since they fade only by the end of August. Their bulbs are dug up in late autumn, dried and stored in a cool place. Place them in plastic bags or plastic containers with ventilation holes and sprinkle with wet sawdust or moss to keep them from drying out. The bulbs are planted in a permanent place when the threat of recurrent frosts has passed.

Dividing the nest of lily bulbs in spring

Spring transplanting is also permissible when growing other types of lilies, before the emergence, or at the very beginning of the development of sprouts. It is important to take into account that during spring transplantation, lilies develop rapidly and the appearance of early shoots can lead to their death due to late frosts.

Transplanting lilies in summer

Snow-white lilies need a summer transplant, the vegetation cycle of which has its own characteristics. They enter the resting phase in July-August, and by September they are already beginning to form a new rosette. When transplanting, you do not need to cut off the stem, but it is advisable to shorten the long roots to 7-10 cm. Water the lilies after the completion of the procedure should be abundant, stimulating the growth of new roots.

Lily transplant in summer

Dividing and planting lilies in July is also possible when growing Asiatic lilies. The dug nests are divided into separate stems with a bulb and immediately planted in a new place. In this case, the buds and existing flowers are cut off.

Outcome

Growing lilies in the country is possible even for a novice florist, provided that he follows the rules for caring for them. It is important to remember that, depending on the species, lilies need different conditions, the observance of which will be the key to abundant and colorful flowering.