Lilies la hybrids planting and care in the open field

Garden lily (lat. Lílium) is the brightest representative of the Liliaceae family. This beauty is well known to everyone. Perennial plant with bulbous root system. The bulb can be of various sizes and shapes. So, on average, the diameter is 10 cm, in natural conditions there are specimens with a bulb diameter of about 30 cm. They are ovoid or spherical in shape.

The stems are erect, from half a meter to 2.5 m in height. In Nepal, you can find a giant lily (Lilium giganteum) with a height of more than 3 m, the diameter of the corolla reaches 18 cm, and the bulb is comparable in size to a soccer ball. The stem is densely covered with leaves. The leafy plates are oblong, with pointed tops. In some varieties, they are collected in a root rosette or are originally twisted in a spiral.

Bloom

Corolla six-lobed, the center is decorated with a large pistil and 6 stamens. They are collected in an inflorescence in the form of an umbrella, cone or cylinder. One inflorescence simultaneously contains 7-16 flowers, and during the flowering period it gives up to 30 flowers, they bloom gradually. Flowering begins from the top, smoothly moving down. The life span of one flower is 3-10 days.

Depending on the species / variety, the shape of the corolla can be tubular, funnel-shaped, opened (almost flat), etc. Traditional colors: white, pink, yellow, orange, exotic looking blue, multicolor.

At the end of flowering, the fruit-box with seeds ripens.

How to cut faded buds

To prevent the formation of seed pods from taking away the strength of the plant, the faded peduncles must be removed.Do it right: the cut should be at an angle, it is good if the leaves are covered from above - this will not collect rainwater (dampness can provoke rotting).

Nature has endowed us with about 80 species of lilies, most of which were widely grown in gardens. Through the labor of breeders, many amazing varieties and hybrids have been bred.

In natural conditions, lilies are common in Europe, Asia, they can be found in North America.

Legends

Lily is a plant-symbol (often used in heraldry), a plant-legend, sung by poets and writers, and artists did not bypass her. In ancient Greek mythology, it was believed that the snow-white petals of a lily are drops of milk of the goddess of fertility Hera. The Christian faith associates the white lily flower with the Mother of God. The name of the flower is translated from Old Gaulish as "white-white".

The benefits of the plant

In addition to its extraordinary beauty, the plant has medicinal properties: alcoholic tincture of lily petals is used for muscle pain, abscesses, cuts; used as a cleanser for the skin of the face.

When garden lily blooms

The flowering period of the garden lily begins in June and lasts almost until the end of September. It all depends on the following factors: first of all, on the type (variety), the age of the bulbs (young ones may not bloom), the timing of planting, the planting site (sunny area or shading), the climatic conditions of the region (in the southern regions, flowering begins earlier - possibly from the end May).

About varieties:

• The fastest in development are Asian hybrids: the period from the awakening of the bulb to the beginning of flowering is 70-90 days. The beauty parade starts first.
• OT and LA hybrids are the next to bloom (at the end of July): they need 80-100 days to develop.
• Oriental hybrids are late flowering. The developmental period is 100-140 days.

Flowering lasts 2.5-3 weeks. Plant multiple lily hybrids in the area to create a panoramic view that blooms throughout the season.

Growing a garden lily from seeds

Lily seeds garden photo

Garden lily reproduces by seeds and vegetatively.

Seed reproduction is an exciting process that allows you to simultaneously get several strong (they are more resistant to disease) specimens. Lilies grown from seeds will bloom in the 3-4th year of life. Ripe seeds have a brownish tint. They are pre-processed using one of the options:

• 1-2% solution of hydrogen peroxide or bleach
• Zinc sulfate solution at a concentration of 0.04%.

Growing seedlings

Start sowing garden lilies for seedlings in February-March. You will need seedling boxes or containers no more than 10 cm deep. Soil mix: in equal proportions, leaf earth and sand or sand, peat and humus. Spread the seeds over the surface, sprinkle with a sand-peat layer about 0.5 cm thick, spray with a fine spray. Cover with foil or glass to create a greenhouse effect. Maintain the air temperature in the range of 20-25 ° C, it does not matter to germinate in the dark or in the light.

Garden lily from seeds photo of seedlings

With the emergence of seedlings from the shelter, get rid of it gradually (first open for several hours). Sprouts need diffused lighting and moderate watering, the air temperature should be within 12-20 ° C. When one or two pairs of true leaves have formed, plant in individual containers. Transplant into open ground at the end of May or beginning of June.

Sowing in the ground

You can sow seeds in open ground before winter. Thoroughly mulch the plantings with dry leaf or needles, in winter add more snow on top. Seedlings will appear in April, carefully free the garden bed from the old shelter, water as the soil dries up. You do not need to break through if the distance between shoots is at least 6-7 cm. Lily from seeds will please with flowering only after 3-4 years.All this time, there is no need to replant the bulbs. Leave them to develop in the place of sowing, and after 3 years in the spring or autumn it will be possible to transplant to a permanent place of growth.

How garden lilies reproduce

Most often, gardeners use vegetative propagation methods for garden lilies:

Bulb propagation

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs children photo

The most popular and easiest breeding method. 3-4 years after planting, the plant forms 4-6 full-fledged bulbs. The bush is dug up, the bulbs are separated and planted.

Reproduction is possible by baby bulbs, which are formed at the base of the stem. The deeper the bulb is planted, the more “babies” it will give. Decapitation (removal of buds) also contributes to this process. You can act more radically: after decapitation, the stem with supra-bulbous roots is carefully separated from the main bulb and planted (shading and abundant watering will be required).

Lily propagation by bulb scales

Reproduction of lilies with scales of bulbs photo

Usually this process is done at the end of flowering.

• Dig out the onion, rinse, separate the scales from the base by pressing your finger (the upper ones are the most productive, they should be without spots).
• The bulb itself can be planted back into the ground (treat the cut with a fungicide).
• Place the scales in a dark pink manganese solution for 15-20 minutes.
• Fill the seedling boxes with the substrate (2 parts each of peat and deciduous humus), pour a layer of small pebbles on top.
• Deepen each flake 2/3 into the soil, the top should be in the pebbles.
• Maintain the air temperature at 20-25 ° C, the soil should be slightly damp.
• Each scale produces 2-3 baby bulbs. The process of their formation takes 4-12 weeks. The flowering of the obtained seedlings will come in 2-3 years.

How garden lilies reproduce with bulbs

How to propagate a garden lily with bulbs photo

Bulbules appear at the end of flowering in the leaf axils of some hybrids (mainly Asian). When the bulbs begin to crumble to the ground, the process of their formation is over. Collect the bulbs and use for propagation.

How to plant lily bulbs garden photo

You can plant directly in open ground: make grooves up to 3 cm deep, place the bulbs at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other, cover with soil, keep a distance of 20-25 cm between rows.When planting in a container, deepen by 1 cm - germinate in a cold greenhouse until next fall.

How to choose quality planting material

How to choose quality lily bulbs garden photo

When buying bulbs, you must determine the variety. For example, for LA hybrids and Asian hybrids, a white bulb is characteristic, pink and yellow blotches may be present. A large yellow (less often purple) onion is an OT and oriental hybrids. For tubular lilies, the purple color of the bulbs is inherent.

Characteristics of a healthy bulb: elasticity, juiciness, no damage, signs of decay. The minimum length of live roots should be 5 cm.

In the fall, you can find a bulb with a sprout on sale - you should know: most likely, they were planted in open ground in the spring, when they are re-planted in the fall, they will immediately grow and may die from frost.

Feel free to purchase seedlings with a clod of earth, even in a blossoming state.

Terms of planting garden lily

The timing of planting garden lilies in open ground is divided into spring, summer and autumn.

Planting in spring is quite popular (planting is started as soon as the soil thaws, so that the bulbs have time to take root and get stronger before the onset of cold weather). This is especially true for late flowering (oriental and OT hybrids). Asian and LA hybrids can be planted in summer.

Experts recommend planting the bulbs after flowering ends (late summer to mid-autumn). Such plantings for the winter should be mulched. Here, too, be guided by the variety.For Asian, Oriental, OT and LA hybrids, bottom peat, sawdust, needles are suitable. Cover snow-white, tubular and curly ones with hay, leafy humus mixed with ash.

Where to plant lilies in the garden

Garden lilies care and planting photos in the garden

The culture is perennial, so as not to bother with a transplant once again, choose a suitable place for growing initially.

Illumination of the site

To accommodate an exotic beauty, well-lit areas with protection from silt gusts of wind and drafts are preferable. Some (curly lilies) feel comfortable in shading. It is good if the lower part of the plant is in the shade, and the peduncles are illuminated by sunlight. This will protect the bulbs from overheating and drying out. For this purpose, plant near daylilies, hosts, bells, cornflower.

Under the dense shade of trees and shrubs, the stems are stretched out, flowering is late and poor, the bulbs often suffer from fungal diseases, which leads to their death.

Priming

The soil needs fertile, loose, well-drained soil. Cultivated garden soil, light loamy and sandy loam soils are suitable.

Flooding and waterlogging is detrimental to the plant - plant it on heights, if the groundwater is close, build a high bed.

Garden lilies grow best in soils with moderate acidity. So, for snow-white and curly ones, a moderately alkaline soil reaction is most favorable, for eastern and Asian ones - neutral, the brightness of the pink color of tubular lilies is fully manifested in slightly acidic soil.

Site preparation

To ensure healthy growth and lush flowering, the preparation of the site must be done in advance. Do this a month before planting (planning to plant in early spring - fall).

For digging to a depth of 35-40 cm, add (per 1 m² of area):

• 1 bucket of rotted manure, compost or humus (the introduction of fresh organic matter is unacceptable - the bulbs will rot);
• 1-2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, urea, nitroammophoska;
• 1 liter of wood ash solution (with the exception of planting candidum and marchon lilies).

Bulb processing

Inspect the planting material carefully. Cut off dead roots, remove rotten scales, rinse under running water. Then hold in one of the solutions for 15-20 minutes:

• Potassium permanganate medium pink
• Special preparation for etching (Vitaros, Maxim);
• For 1 liter of water, 2 g of foundation or karbofos.

Dried onions should be soaked in warm water for several hours.

Planting a garden lily in open ground

How to plant lilies garden photos

Planting a garden lily in spring and autumn follows the same principle.

• Dig holes, pour a handful of coarse sand (about 5 cm layer) on the bottom, level the roots, lower the onion, cover with earth, water abundantly.
• The minimum planting depth of the bulbs is 10 cm (for low-growing varieties), the maximum is 25 cm (the bulbs of tall varieties of lilies are buried 15-20 cm).
• The larger the bulbs, the deeper the planting depth. It does not need to be deeply buried if the soil is heavy.
• Keep a distance of 20-30 cm between individual bulbs. To create a lush bouquet, 5-7 bulbs are planted in one wide hole, reducing the distance by half.

Features of summer landing

The procedure is carried out by the method of transshipment of an earthen coma. Make planting holes with a volume of 30x30x30 cm.Cover the bottom with a layer of coarse sand 5-7 cm thick.Place the seedling together with an earthen clod, fill the rest of the space with a mixture of garden soil mixed with rotted manure or humus, add 1 tablespoon of superphosphate. Water liberally. If the stem is tall, support is required. It is necessary to remove the buds and flowers so as not to take away the strength from the plant.

How to care for a garden lily

Lily curly martagon photo

The beauty lily is unpretentious in leaving.

Watering and loosening the soil

Provide regular watering.Water most abundantly during the growing season and in hot, dry weather. The soil should be 25-30 cm wet (bulb depth). Avoid waterlogging, the plant will better tolerate short-term drought than excess moisture. On hot days, watering is preferable in the morning or evening. Bring water under the root, trying not to get on the leaves.

Oriental hybrids are especially susceptible to soaking. If the weather is rainy for a long time, such a flower should be covered to protect the bulbs from decay. Air out when the sun comes out.

Remove weeds from the site, periodically loosen the soil.

Mulching with humus or peat will cut the work in half.

Top dressing

It is enough to feed a couple of times a season. Use complex mineral fertilizers. Carry out the first feeding in early spring, the second - at the beginning of flowering (focus on the proportion of potassium and phosphorus).

Pruning and preparing for wintering

After the end of flowering, when the peduncle and leaves are completely dry, cut off the stem, leaving a stump of 15 cm in height.In late autumn (about November), carefully remove it as well - this way, you will limit the access of cold air to the bulbs.

Why does the garden lily not bloom

• If the bulb is planted too deep, flowering is delayed or absent altogether.
• If the flowers fade quickly, then the bulb is overheating - soil mulching will be required.

Wintering

The plant needs shelter for the winter. It is good if the soil is covered with peat. Sprinkle additionally with dry leaves, spruce branches.

Eastern hybrids do not tolerate wintering very well - among other things, cover the top with a film or other waterproof material. When the snow melts, be sure to remove it so that the soil warms up and the shoots begin to develop.

Transplanting a garden lily

Over time, the stems are stretched, the flowers become smaller. To make the plant look decorative, not hurt, please with lush flowering, a transplant is required.

The frequency of transplanting depends on the variety. American and curly lilies have been free to do without transplanting for 15 years. OT and LA hybrids, long-flowered and oriental, must be replanted every 3-5 years. Tubular and Asian grow intensively - they are transplanted almost every year.

Transplant features:

• Dig up the plant with a pitchfork (to protect the bulbs from damage);
• Pour water over the root system;
• Separate young shoots and for 10-15 minutes. immerse in a slightly boron solution of potassium permanganate;
• Trim the roots, leaving about 10 cm long.

Timing and farming techniques are similar to planting bulbs.

Diseases and pests

Damage to the following diseases is possible: fusarium, gray rot, rust. This happens when the rules of agricultural technology are not followed, prolonged waterlogging of the soil. Treat with a fungicidal preparation.

Pests: aphids, bulbous mites. An insecticide treatment will be required.

Lilies garden species and varieties with photos and names

More than 3500 hybrid varieties have been bred, they are subdivided into 13 groups.

The main groups of hybrids:

Asian hybrids Asiatic Hybrids

They are very winter-hardy (they endure snowless winters with a drop in temperature to -40 ° C), they easily reproduce in bulbs. The stem is about 1 meter high, there are dwarf varieties (about 40 cm tall). In shape, the flowers can be turbid, cupped or tubular, devoid of aroma, the diameter is 10-20 cm. They bloom from late June to early August.

This group includes some species lilies (Tigrovaya, David).

The most popular varieties:

Lily garden America Lilium America photo

America - flowers are dark red.

Asiatic lily Apeldoorn photo

Apeldoorn - beautiful wide orange petals.

Asiatic lily Apollo photo

Apollo is a snow-white color with a pale pink bloom on the buds.

Asiatic Lily Black Out Photo

Black Out - dark red.

Asiatic Lily White Pixels Photo

White Pixels is a white flower with maroon specks.

Asiatic lily Grand Cru photo

Grand Cru is a deep yellow color with a reddish-brown shade in the center.

Asiatic Lily Gran Paradiso

Gran Paradiso - bright red corollas up to 16 cm in diameter.

Asiatic lily jive photo

Jive is a yellow flower with a red heart.

Asian Lily Dimension

Dimension - glossy maroon petals.

American Hybrids

Garden lily american hybrids photo

Growing in a sunny area is preferable; abundant watering is required. Bloom in July. The diameter of the corolla is 9-12cm. The shape of the corolla is turbid.

Oriental Hybrids

They have large corollas up to 30 cm in diameter. They are tubular, turban-shaped, cupped in shape. Bloom in the period August-September.

The best varieties:

Garden lily Acapulco photo

Acapulco - pink flowers.

Oriental lily Alma Ata photo

Alma Ata - large snow-white flowers.

Oriental lily Angelique photo

Angelique is a snow-white flower with a yellow center and crimson stripes.

Oriental lily Dizzy photo

Dizzy is a snow-white flower with a center and stripes of a burgundy hue.

Oriental lily Deep Impact photo

Deep Impact - purple petals with a white border.

Oriental lily Mona Lisa photo

Mona Lisa is a pale pink shade of petals with a white border.

Longiflorum Hybrids

They are thermophilic, grown mainly as a pot culture. The flowering period is July-August. The colors are predominantly snow-white, the flowers are very fragrant.

Varieties:

Lily garden deliana Deliana photo

Deliana is a lemon yellow color.

Lily Dolcetto Dolcetto photo

Dolcetto - pale pink flowers.

Garden lily Miyabi Lilium Miyabi

Miyabi is a purplish red color.

Lily garden Triumphator Triumphator LO hybrid photo

Triumphator is a white flower with a crimson-pink heart.

Garden lily Lilium White Heaven photo

White Heaven, Snow Queen - white.

Candidum hybrids or Snow White Candidum Hybrids

Lily Candidum Apollo

Grow well in sunny areas. The corollas are tubular or funnel-shaped in shape, reaching a diameter of 10-12 cm, the colors are varied.

Martagon Hybrids or Curly Martagon Hybrids

Lily curly martagon Lilium martagon 'Claude Shride' photo

They prefer partial shade, but grow well under the sun. They winter well in the open field, they are a little susceptible to diseases. Easily propagated by bulbous scales. The shape of the corolla is turbid, 7-8 cm in diameter, with a weak aroma.

Trumpet Hybrids

They grow well in an open, sunny place, are little susceptible to diseases, frost-hardy, but they need shelter for the winter. Flowering time: July - September. Flower shape: turban, goblet, tubular, stellate. They have a pleasant, strong aroma.

Varieties:

Garden lily Lilium African Queen photo

African Queen - orange color.

Lily tubular Golden Splendor Golden Splendour photo

Golden Splendour - bright yellow petals, bronze back.

Lily tubular Pink Perfection photo

Pink Perfection - pink flower.

Lily tubular Regale Album photo

Regale, Regale Album - white flowers.

Groups of hybrids obtained by crossing the above hybrids:

• AA-hybrids (Aurelian x Asiatic) - high resistance to diseases, well tolerate wintering. They have a pleasant aroma that intensifies in coolness.
• LA hybrids (Longiflorum x Asiatic) - hibernate without shelter in the middle lane, have the finest aroma.

Lily hybrid Ballroom Lilium Ballroom photo

Ballroom is a salmon shade of flowers.

Lily Diamond Diamond photo

Diamond - golden yellow color.

Lily hybrid Samur Samur photo

Samur - flower shape: wide bowl, pale pink flower with a silvery shade.

Lily hybrid Suncrest Lilium Suncrest photo

Suncrest - cream colored flowers covered with dark specks.

• LO-hybrids (Longiflorum x Oriental) - the shape of the flower is funnel-shaped or tubular. White and pink colors prevail.
• LP hybrids (Trumpet x Longiflorum) - high winter hardiness. On one stem there are up to 20 tubular flowers, flowering begins in July.
• OA hybrids (Oriental x Asiatic) - a new group, unpretentious in care, begin to bloom in July.
• OT-hybrids (Oriental х Trumpets) or Orienpets (OR) - corolla in the form of a cup or funnel, diameter is 20-25 cm. The flowering period is from July to the end of August.

Varieties:

Lily hybrid Albany Albany photo

Albany is a snow-white flower with a cherry core.

Lily hybrid Altari Altari photo

Altari - stripes of cream shade alternate with burgundy.

Lily hybrid Bonbini Bonbini photo

Bonbini - snow-white corollas with a pink crown in the center.

Lily hybrid Red Hot Red Hot photo

Red Hot - red flowers with yellow edging and specks of a darker shade.

Interspecific lily hybrid - Algarve cultivar

Lily is a decoration of many gardens and is very popular with flower growers all over the world. Everyone dreams of growing lily flowers in their garden, planting and caring for which is not difficult and affordable, but requires preliminary preparation.

Choosing a variety and bulbs of lilies

When choosing planting material, you need to make sure that it will match the selected variety, healthy, and suitable for growing in your area. In the matter of varietal compliance of lilies, one can only rely on the seller's conscientiousness, but the species and quality of the bulbs can be determined by their appearance.

The best varieties of lilies for the garden

The genus of lilies is represented by more than 80 wild and cultivated species around the world. Their varietal diversity is even more impressive - about 8000 varieties and hybrids, each of which is unique in its own way.

Throughout Russia, including Siberia and the Urals, summer residents practice growing lilies of Asian hybrids. These varieties are frost-resistant, grow quickly and are not demanding to care for. Bloom very profusely in June - July. The peculiarity of Asians is the lack of odor in flowers. The most famous varieties of this group are Marlene, Top Gunn, Lollipop, Yeti, Flore Pleno, Daira, Sorbet.

Popular Asian hybrid - Top Gunn variety

Oriental hybrids of lilies are more capricious when growing. They do not tolerate low temperatures poorly, therefore they are preferred to grow in the southern zone of Russia and in greenhouses in the Moscow region. They are distinguished by fragrant flowers of extraordinary beauty, up to 30 cm in diameter. The following varieties belong to the East: Casablanca, Barbados, Cassandra, Mona Lisa, Double Surprise, Magic Star.

Interspecific OT-hybrid of lily Brazil

Lily Kudrevataya (Martagon) is famous for its unpretentious cultivation. Martagon hybrids are widespread in the northern regions of our country, especially varieties such as Bayhouse, Markhan, Hyson, Gay Light. At the base, the leaves of this type of lily are collected in a whorl, and the high peduncle is strewn with many turban-shaped flowers.

The right variety is the key to easy care

That is why summer residents prefer tubular varieties. They are not affected by diseases and are unpretentious, and long, up to 1.5 m peduncles with many large flowers of various colors will become an exquisite decoration of your flower bed.

Determine the type of lily on the bulb

Experienced gardeners know that each group of lily hybrids has its own requirements for the composition of the soil, the illumination of the site and has its own frost resistance threshold. So, the cultivation of lilies in the open ground of the Asian group and LA hybrids is possible everywhere, and the eastern varieties do not tolerate wintering well; slightly alkaline soil is suitable for growing tubular lilies, and slightly acidic soil for OT hybrids.

The appearance of the bulb will help to determine which group the lily belongs to:

• White bulbs, sometimes with yellow and pink blotches, are characteristic of the Asian and Longiflorum (LA) groups;
• Oriental and Oriental (OT) lilies have large yellow, rarely purple bulbs;
• The bulbs of tubular lilies are purple in color.

Choosing a healthy bulb

When buying lilies, it is important to correctly determine the quality of the planting material, since bulbs infected with fungal diseases will cause a lot of trouble and can infect flowers already growing in your flower beds.

Choosing the right lily bulbs

• The bulb must be firm, juicy, free from damage and signs of decay.
• Planting lilies, the bulbs of which are dry, do not have sprouts and root growth, will not bring the desired result. They need very careful care, and it is not known when flowering will come.
• Living roots must be at least 5 cm in size.
• Bulbs less than 3 cm in diameter will not bloom until two years after planting.The larger the bulb, the more luxuriant the lily color will be. The optimum diameter of the bulb is 12-16 cm.

When to buy bulbs

Lilies are planted both in autumn and spring. When choosing lilies, which are planned to be planted in the fall, it is important to consider that they need to be planted as early as possible, leaving a sufficient time reserve before frost for rooting. Lilies, the cultivation and care of which was correct this year, begin to be dug up from the end of August. It is advisable to purchase bulbs during this period.

Healthy lily bulbs in spring have sprout and live roots

Be careful when buying bulbs!

Look out for the sprouting bulbs that go on sale in the fall. Most likely, they were not planted in the spring in the ground, and they missed one life cycle. Once in the ground, they will immediately move to growth and freeze out at the first sub-zero temperatures on the ground.

Buying lily saplings

Planting lilies in summer is possible, especially when it comes to Asian hybrids and Candidum. They are sold as seedlings with a clod of earth, often blooming. It is much easier to pick up a flower in this case - all its beauty is visible to the eye, and there is no likelihood of obtaining non-varietal planting material.

Lily seedlings for summer planting

Don't buy lily saplings after distillation!

Seedlings are often sold in June and July after forcing. In this case, the bulbs have passed the life cycle in artificial conditions. In the open field, they will hurt, and they will be able to bloom only after a few years. The cost of such planting material is not high, which is a temptation for many novice flower growers.

Preparation of soil and bulbs, rules for planting lilies

Choosing the right site, preparing the soil and planting the bulbs are critical to the successful cultivation of lilies. If you approach these stages responsibly, lilies will grow well and delight with flowering in the garden for more than one year.

Site selection

The choice of a site for growing largely depends on the type of lilies and their requirements for certain conditions:

• Asiatic, oriental, and pipe lilies prefer sunny areas with no through-winds. Partial shading will not affect the growth and flowering of these lilies. If the light in the garden is not the same throughout the day, it is preferable to plant the lilies on the east side so that they receive as much sunlight as possible before lunchtime.
• Curly lilies (Martagon) grow well and bloom in partial shade, especially when the leaf rosette is completely shaded and the flower stalks are in the sun.

To shade the bulbs during the summer, it is recommended to plant lilies near low-growing perennials (hosta, daylilies, daisies). In this combination, flowering lilies will stand out and look bright, and the bulb will remain in the shade, protected from overheating and drying out. In shady areas under trees and dense shrubs, lilies are stretched out, their stem is thin, and flowering is scarce and belated. Such plants very often get sick, and the bulbs die.

Choosing a site for lilies in the penumbra of conifers

The best place to plant lilies

Preference for planting lilies should be given to elevated areas or plains. In the lowlands, the bulbs can get wet, be affected by fungal diseases, and in winter they are more likely to freeze.

Soil preparation

Lilies feel comfortable on garden or vegetable garden land, well-drained and without high groundwater. Peat or humus is introduced into sandy soils, and dense clay soil is facilitated by the introduction of coarse-grained river sand.

Preparing the soil for planting lilies

Lilies grow best when planted and cared for in moderately acidic soil.

• Moderately alkaline soil reaction (pH 7.0-8.0) is favorable for growing Snow-white and Curly lilies.
• Asiatic and Oriental lilies grow well on soils with neutral acidity.
• Tubular lily also has preferences - its varieties with pink flowers bloom brighter and more beautifully on slightly acidic soils (pH 6.0-6.5).

How to regulate acidity

Lime, chalk, ash or dolomite flour are added to lower the pH level. Heather earth, peat, acetic acid or colloidal sulfur will help increase the acidity.

The soil for lilies is prepared in advance: in autumn - for spring planting, in summer - for autumn planting. They dig it to a depth of 35-40 cm, turning over the layers. For digging into the soil, fertilizers are applied per m²:

• 1 bucket of humus, rotted manure or compost. The introduction of fresh manure is not permissible, since lilies in such soil will rot;
• 1-2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, urea, nitroammophoska;
• 1 liter of wood ash solution, except for those areas where Martagon and Candidum lilies are planned to be planted.

Applying this amount of fertilizer to the soil will provide the lilies with the nutrients they need for good growth and abundant flowering.

Preparing the bulbs for planting

The pre-planting preparation of lilies is necessary to minimize the damage to the bulbs by fungal diseases. Dried onions are pre-soaked in water at room temperature for several hours.

Preparing lily bulbs for planting

The onions are etched for 15-20 minutes in one of the solutions:

• pink solution of potassium permanganate;
• 2 g karbofos per 1 liter of water;
• 2 g of foundation per 1 liter of water;
• a special preparation for dressing bulbous plants before planting Maxim or Vitaros.

After processing, the bulbs are dried in the shade.

Planting lilies in the ground

Early autumn planting of lilies in open ground is considered the most successful. Planted during this period, they will have time to root well before frost and are guaranteed to bloom next year. The exceptions are Oriental lilies and OT hybrids. They bloom late, by September the bulbs are not yet ready for planting, and during the October planting they will not have time to take root. Therefore, they are planted in the spring when the soil warms up well.

The planting depth of the bulbs depends on several factors:

• Bulb size. The larger the bulb, the deeper it needs to be planted. The minimum depth is 10 cm. Lily bulbs should not be embedded in the ground deeper than 25 cm. Bulb babies are sown in furrows 5-7 cm deep.
• Soil composition. On heavy soils, the bulbs must not be deeply deepened.
• Lily variety. For undersized plants, the planting depth is about 10 cm, for tall ones - 15-20 cm.

Planting lilies in the fall

A distance of 20 cm is maintained between the bulbs. Lilies of the Asian group grow rapidly, therefore, when planted, they stand at least 30 cm between them. Pictures of multi-colored lilies, planted in 5-7 bulbs in one wide hole, look beautiful.

Lilies are planted in autumn and spring in pre-prepared holes, on a 5-7 cm "pillow" of river sand. The roots are evenly distributed, after which the bulbs are covered with earth and watered abundantly.

Spring planting material can often be found with a twisted sprout. There is nothing terrible in this, but you need to place the bulb in the hole so that the top of the sprout is vertically above the ground. The bulb itself will take the desired position as the lily grows.

If for the reproduction of lilies it is necessary to obtain a large number of children, the bulbs are planted "on the side". In this position, the nest of bulbs will form faster and the number of daughter bulbs will increase.

It is advisable to mulch the planting of lilies, but a separate mulch is used for each varietal group:

• Asian, Eastern, LA and OT hybrids are mulched with peat, sawdust, pine needles;
• Plantings of Snow-White, Tubular and Curly varieties are mulched with leaf humus, cut grass, and ash is also added.

Features of summer landing

Asian and LA hybrids can be planted in summer. This also applies to the Snow White Lilies, the bulbs of which are dormant in July-August. Lilies are planted in July using the transshipment method.

Planting lily bulbs in summer

Bulbs must be dug out with a clod of earth. A volumetric hole (50x50x50 cm) is prepared in advance, to which 1 tbsp is added. spoon of superphosphate and mix it with the ground. The bottom of the hole is covered with river sand with a layer of 5-7 cm, after which a seedling is placed and sprinkled with earth mixed with humus or rotted manure. The seedling is watered abundantly and, if it is tall, tied to a support. The existing buds and flowers are cut off so that the lily spends all its strength on rooting.

Planting lilies in summer video

Summer Lily Care

Growing lilies in the country is not burdensome. Caring for them comes down to regular moistening and loosening of the soil, as well as periodic feeding.

Caring for lilies in the summer, at the stage of bud formation

Watering

The soil under the lilies should be moderately moist throughout the growing season. Moisture stagnation will lead to decay of the bulbs, while lilies tolerate short-term drought painlessly. Lack of watering for a long time will lead to wilting of the lower leaves and poor development of the peduncle.

Drying of the lower leaves of lilies due to insufficient watering

The basic rule of watering lilies

Lilies experience the greatest need for moisture in spring, during active growth. In summer, they are not watered so abundantly, moistening the soil to the depth of the bulbs. Surface irrigation will not be beneficial. In this case, the plant will feel thirsty, and a crust will form on the surface of the soil, which does not allow air to pass through well.

Watering lilies during budding and flowering

It is advisable to water the lilies before lunch at the root, avoiding water getting on the leaves. During flowering, the amount of watering can be reduced. It is enough to shed the soil 25-30 cm deep, once every two weeks.

Loosening the soil

Garden lilies, care and planting of which are done correctly, need constant access to air to the root system. Loosen the soil very carefully, taking care not to damage the additional stem roots located at the surface of the soil. At the same time, weeds are removed.

During heavy rains, sand is washed out of the soil, it clogs and hardens. In this case, river sand is poured under the lilies, which, during loosening, mixes with the earth and makes it lighter.

Mulching the plantings with straw or wood shavings will help to facilitate the care of lilies in the summer. Also, you can maintain constant soil moisture and protect the bulbs from overheating by planting low-growing perennials near the lilies.

Mulching lilies with wood chips

Top dressing in summer

If you have an automatic irrigation system set up, as well as planting has been made in the prepared soil, and care for the lilies is practically not required - in the first year the plants need a one-time application of fertilizers.

Complex fertilizing is poured under the flowers during budding, using equal amounts of ammophoska and nitroammophoska, at the rate of 30g / m². Dissolving them in 10 liters of water.

Caring for lilies after flowering

Many gardeners have a question about how to care for lilies after flowering. It was during this period that the plant is most susceptible to diseases, since all the forces went to the peduncles.

Watering

After flowering, the watering rate is increased, trying to ensure constant soil moisture at a depth of 25-30 cm. From the second half of August, watering is completely stopped, since the soil must be dry for successful wintering of the bulbs.

Most of all, this applies to Oriental and OT hybrids. After flowering, the soil is thoroughly dried. In September, the flower beds should be covered with plastic wrap to keep it dry during prolonged autumn rains and thaws in winter. The shelter is removed in early spring after the snow melts, during fertilization.

Top dressing

After flowering, lilies need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used as top dressing at 10 and 30 g per m², respectively.Dilute them in 10 liters of water and water the lilies with this solution under the root, after preliminary watering with clean water.

Feeding lilies with organic

Feeding lilies with organic

Lily bulbs do not have a protective shell, like tulips and other bulbs, so organic fertilizers must be applied very carefully. Nutrient solutions based on manure or slurry are prepared in low concentration: 0.3-0.5 liters per bucket of water. Over-saturation of the soil with organic fertilizers will lead to rotting and subsequent death of the bulb.

For wintering lily bulbs, the same feeding as in summer is done in spring when the snow melts. Fertilizers are applied dry on the crust of thawed ice and get to the roots of the bulb gradually, stimulating its awakening, growth and development.

Pruning

Withered flowers are cut off from the peduncle. It is impossible to hesitate with this, since seed boxes will begin to form on the peduncle, and the plant will spend all its strength on their development.

Caring for lilies after flowering includes pruning the stem. It is carried out only after the leaves and peduncle have completely dried out, since they are a conductor of nutrients to the bulbs. In September, the stem is cut "on a stump" 10-15 cm long. In late autumn, in October or November, this stump is carefully pulled out so that cold air does not enter the bulb through it.

After the stem of the lily has dried, it is cut off

You need to cut flowering lilies for bouquets correctly!

The cut of the peduncle is made at an acute angle so that the remaining leaves completely or partially cover it. An oblique cut is necessary for water to drain off when it rains. If the cut is made even, a large amount of moisture through it will get to the bulb, which will provoke its rotting.

Protection of lilies from diseases and pests

Lilies can be affected by pests, the most dangerous of which are:

• Onion root mite. Prevention and protection - planting healthy material; pickling the bulbs before planting with karbofos (5 g / 1 l of water for 30 minutes); heat treatment of bulbs in water of 50 ºС for 5 minutes.
• Onion leaf beetle. Fighting - timely weed harvesting; collecting beetles; chlorophos treatment (10 g per bucket of water)
• Purple scoop. Fighting - timely removal of weeds and plant residues.

Signs of fungal diseases on lily leaves

Often, lilies, planting and caring for which were carried out in violation of the rules of agricultural technology, are affected by fungal diseases such as fusarium, rust, gray rot. In this case, the bulbs begin to rot, and the leaves become stained and wither. If the development of fungi is allowed to take its course, the plant will die.

To combat fungal diseases, the bulbs are etched with fungicides before planting: Fundazol, Topsin, Euporen, Bavistin. Plants are sprayed with the same preparations during the growing season, if the first signs of diseases appear.

Viral diseases of lilies are much less common, but there are currently no effective means to combat them. Infected plants are removed and destroyed outside the site.

Lily care after flowering video

Features of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals

Today lilies are successfully grown in Siberia and beyond the Urals. Asian and LA hybrids, Martagon lilies and tubular hybrids are cultivated there. Some varieties of OT hybrids and oriental lilies are able to winter in these regions under cover. Planting and caring for the Urals and Siberia is not much different from growing lilies in regions with a warm climate.

Shelter of lilies for the winter in Siberia and the Urals

A feature of caring for lilies in Siberia and the Urals is their shelter for the winter. The beds are insulated with humus, a layer of at least 7 cm, or fallen leaves - about 20 cm. Oriental lilies and OT hybrids are additionally covered with plastic wrap or agrofibre so that the soil remains dry in winter. Curly lilies calmly endure winters in Siberia without shelter.

The lily shelter is removed immediately after the snow melts so that the sprouts do not appear early and do not freeze during late frosts. If, nevertheless, the lilies have sprouted, and the threat of frost has not passed, they are covered with spruce branches or straw.

Transplanting and dividing bulbs

In order for a lily, planting and caring for which in the open field does not require special skills, to develop well and bloom, its bulbs must be regularly transplanted to a new place. Otherwise, their stems become lethargic, and the flowers become smaller. The frequency of the necessary transplant depends on the type of lily grown:

• Curly and American lilies without transplanting are grown up to 15 years.
• Oriental and Long-flowered lilies, OT and La hybrids are transplanted every 3-5 years.
• Asiatic and Tubular lilies can be replanted every year as they grow intensively.

Transplant in the fall

The optimal time for transplanting a lily, the care of which was organized according to all the rules, is early autumn. The bulbs are dug up in August or early September, a month and a half after flowering. By this time, they have accumulated a sufficient amount of nutrients and quickly take root in a new place. With late autumn planting, there is a high probability that the bulbs will not have time to take root and will die in the frozen ground.

Children are separated from the bulbs dug out for transplantation. Often they fall off on their own, but if the daughter bulbs are tightly collected in the nest, they are cut off with a clean knife, making sure to keep a part of the bottom on each bulb. Dividing the bulbs is the easiest and most reliable way to reproduce lilies, in which all the maternal qualities of the variety are preserved.

Dry and rotting scales are removed from the bulbs, and too long roots are cut off. They are treated with antifungal drugs: 1% potassium permanganate solution, 2% iodine, 1% ferrous sulfate, and foundation. Then they are dried in a shaded, well-ventilated place.

It is advisable to plant lilies in a new place within a week after digging so that the bulbs do not dry out. Small daughter bulbs are planted separately for growing to a depth of 5-7 cm and after a year or two, they are again transplanted to a permanent place.

Spring transplant

Oriental and OT hybrids of lilies are transplanted in the spring, since they fade only by the end of August. Their bulbs are dug up in late autumn, dried and stored in a cool place. Place them in plastic bags or plastic containers with ventilation holes and sprinkle with wet sawdust or moss to keep them from drying out. The bulbs are planted in a permanent place when the threat of recurrent frosts has passed.

Dividing the nest of lily bulbs in spring

Spring transplanting is also permissible when growing other types of lilies, before the emergence, or at the very beginning of the development of sprouts. It is important to take into account that during the spring transplant, lilies develop rapidly and the appearance of early shoots can lead to their death due to late frosts.

Transplanting lilies in summer

Snow-white lilies need a summer transplant, the vegetation cycle of which has its own characteristics. They enter the resting phase in July-August, and by September they are already beginning to form a new rosette. When transplanting, you do not need to cut the stem, but it is advisable to shorten the long roots to 7-10 cm. Water the lilies after completion of the procedure should be abundant, stimulating the growth of new roots.

Lily transplant in summer

Dividing and planting lilies in July is also possible when growing Asiatic lilies. The dug nests are divided into separate stems with a bulb and immediately planted in a new place. In this case, the buds and existing flowers are cut off.

Outcome

Growing lilies in the country is possible even for a novice florist, provided that he follows the rules for caring for them. It is important to remember that depending on the species, lilies need different conditions, the observance of which will be the key to abundant and colorful flowering.

Lilies La hybrids appeared when crossing Asian and Long-flowered forms. These hybrids are unpretentious and they are recommended to grow to novice growers who want to plant lilies. Have La hybrids and features in planting and care, which will be considered.

Landing

Lilies are planted in spring and autumn. Spring planting begins in late April and autumn planting in mid-October. The soil temperature should be below fifteen degrees Celsius. In this case, the bulbs take root and grow better. But even at a higher temperature, they can normally take root if you organize the correct, better drip, watering.

La lily hybrids do well in sunny areas. The best option is to illuminate with sunlight in the morning. They can also tolerate partial shade.

Soils for such lilies are required with a neutral reaction, light, good air permeability. Sandy loam soil options are perfect for them.

Prepare the earth before planting, pre-digging it. The digging depth should be approximately forty centimeters. The bulb is deepened by twenty centimeters and roots grow by another twenty centimeters.

Sand should be added to heavy soils. They take not quarry clay, but river washed. For one square meter, you need to add about a bucket of sand. Rotted coniferous needles give a good effect. But they should be disinfected before introduction.

The day before planting, the soil is moistened with high quality. It should be planted in dry weather.

Moisten the bulbs before planting them.

Before boarding the bulbs are thoroughly disinfected. To do this, they are placed in a solution of potassium permanganate, the concentration of which is 0.1 percent. You can use special fungicides designed for the treatment of bulbous plants.

During planting, you should pay attention to the optimal depth. This is a depth of three bulb sizes. First, dig a hole, the depth of which should be about twenty centimeters. River sand is poured into it with a layer of a couple of centimeters. Next, a lily bulb is placed there, the roots are straightened and covered with soil.

Caring for La Lily Hybrids

Mulching the soil surface is an essential element. This helps to retain moisture and prevents excessive soil compaction at the surface.

It is very important for lilies to get proper watering. Moreover, not only during flowering. In the second half of summer, the plants already fade, but they begin to accumulate reserve substances for the winter. During this period, high-quality hydration is also required. The best methods are drip irrigation or plentiful, but not very frequent watering, carried out at the root of the plant. Water should not get on the leaves. The combination of water droplets and bright sun causes burns.

It is imperative to fertilize the plants, but at the same time follow a number of rules. Lilies, including La hybrids, do not like the introduction of fresh manure. If you use manure, then you should take well-rotted manure, which has lain for at least three years.

The best options for high-quality and active fertilization will be complex formulations. In them, minerals are in a chelated form, which makes them more accessible to plants.

The first feeding is carried out in the spring, before the first shoots appear. Then they are fed during the budding period using ammonium nitrate. After flowering, the plants are fertilized with double superphosphate, as well as potassium magnesium. All formulations are brought in dissolved form.

Lilies are one of the most popular perennial flowers that are found quite often in summer cottages. The plant has a rich history. It is mentioned in ancient legends, it is endowed with extraordinary healing properties, but, first of all, this flower differs from others in its refinement and beauty.This article will help answer the question of how to grow lilies.

Views

The plant has about 80 species, from which a considerable number of hybrids have been obtained. The shape of the flowers is different: flat, star-shaped, cup-shaped, bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, tubular, turban-shaped.

Asiatic lilies

The following types of plants are most popular:

1. Asian. These include: Dutch lily, spotted, onion-bearing, tiger, monochromatic, drooping, dwarf, Maksimovich, David. This also includes the lilies of the Fiesta group, as well as hybrids of F. Skinner, I. Taylor, E. Palmer, Mid-Century, S. Patterson, P. Baiyam ,. The latter were bred by Canadian scientists and are not afraid of low temperatures. Their advantages: unpretentiousness, endurance, withstand cold weather, unpretentious to lighting, easily multiply. Disadvantages - lack of aroma. Asian varieties prefer neutral or slightly acidic soils. Propagated by bulbs and seeds. Seed germination - 70%. Plants can reach a height of 150 cm. Flowering begins in late July.
2. Martagon. The curly lily is considered the original of this variety. These hybrids include the following groups: Paisley, Backhouse hybrids, Marhan. The advantages include: frost resistance, unpretentiousness to the soil, durability, not susceptible to viruses. Martagon hybrids are rarely used in landscaping.
3. Candidum. These include hybrids obtained from chalcedony, snow-white and others. Candidum prefer alkaline soils and open, well-lit areas. The main disadvantage is that they are often affected by fungal diseases.
4. American. This group includes: lily Parry, Humboldt, Yuerbanka, leopard, Colombian and others. Because of their capriciousness, American lilies are not very widespread. They grow in soils with low acidity, an abundance of sunlight and with good watering. Do not tolerate transplanting.
5. Long-flowered. The most popular among them are Formosan lily and L. Zalivsky. In central Russia, winters can withstand only with good shelter, in the north they do not take root. Many varieties are predominantly suitable for growing in pots.
6. Tubular. This group is one of the most extensive. This includes such groups as: Sunburst, Golden Showers, Hearts Desire, Golden Clarion, etc. Their advantages: frost resistance, not susceptible to viral diseases, practically not afraid of fungi, easily multiply. They prefer garden soil fertilized with humus. Some varieties require limestone soil. Flowering lasts throughout the summer.
7. Eastern. Lily Henry, golden, Japanese are very popular. The varieties are quite capricious in matters of cultivation, often suffer from diseases, and reproduce poorly. They require good shelter for the winter.
8. LA hybrids (Asian and Long-colored). Grow well outdoors. These hybrids are frost-resistant and practically not susceptible. They prefer neutral soils. It is advisable to insulate with peat for the winter.
9. Oriental and Tubular (OT) hybrids. Used for year-round forcing of flowers. Doesn't require much care when growing.
10. Hybrids of Oriental and Longiflorum (LO) and Oriental and Asian (OA). One of the new groups recently bred by breeders.
11. Hybrid of Longiflorum and Tubular (LP-hybrids, ONGipets). They have high frost resistance. They grow well in the northern regions of Russia.
12. AA hybrids (Asiatic and Olean lilies). They appeared in Russia in the early 2000s. They tolerate frosty winters well.

Lilies OT-hybrids

Reference. OT hybrids and Asian ones are most suitable for the Russian climate.

Buying bulbs

Before buying bulbs, you need to establish their belonging to one or another variety. Planting conditions and agricultural practices depend on this. The main criterion for choosing planting material is quality. The ideal length for living roots is 5 cm. The bulbs themselves should be firm, without rotten or moldy scales.

Lily bulbs

It is not recommended to buy light bulbs with thin scales, as they require special care. In this case, the planting material indicates that the plant went on sale after winter forcing. Having planted them in the spring, you should not wait for flowering in the summer.

When buying bulbs in early spring or winter, they are placed in a plastic bag with moss or dry top peat. Holes are made in the bag, and then put into the refrigerator before planting. If the material is packed, but has begun to germinate, it is necessary to cut the packaging and allow unhindered growth. Storage temperature - not lower than +2 and not higher than +5 degrees.

Dry bulbs can be brought back to life by wrapping them in a thick, damp cloth 2-3 hours before planting. Avoid damage.

Before planting, it is recommended to treat the material with a solution of karbofos (10%).

Soil preparation

The soil is dug up (up to 40 cm deep) and good drainage is arranged. You can add phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or humus. Sandy soils are diluted with peat, and clay soils - with sand.

Acidic soils are detrimental to lilies. To reduce acidity, wood ash (up to 200 g per 1 square meter) or chalk (up to 500 g) is added. The optimum acidity is 6.5 pH.

Wood ash is good for lilies

It is desirable that the soil is fresh, that is, no other plants are grown in it. An artificial substrate is often used to replace the soil.

The soil contaminated with microorganisms is subjected to heat treatment, that is, solarization.

The soil must be moist throughout the season. Increased watering is required for plants in the second half of summer or after the flowering period.

Lilies: planting and care

When planting, it should be borne in mind that it is not recommended to disturb the plant for at least 4 years. It is not recommended to plant one bulb of different varieties, it is better to plant them in groups of 3 or more. Frequent transplants slow down growth.

Mostly planting is carried out in the fall (until the end of September). This is due to the fact that in the autumn period the phase of active growth of roots begins.

It is advisable to choose sunny places for planting, but it is advisable to shade the base itself by planting low annuals. When the sun's rays hit the flowers, they take on different shades.

The planting process is as follows:

1. Planting depth is approximately 2 bulb heights. The distance between them is at least 20 cm.
2. The bottom of the pit is covered with gravel (to improve drainage), and a small layer of soil is placed on top of it.
3. Next, an onion is placed, covered with earth and lightly tamped.
4. A small depression is made on top, where fertilizer is poured.

Planting lily bulbs

Recommendations:

• The larger the bulb, the deeper it should be planted;
• If there are rodents in the area, you should use a metal mesh or special baskets;
• In the fall, the bulbs are planted deeper than in the spring;
• Lilies will multiply faster when planted on barrels;
• To protect against diseases, you can sprinkle the soil with a small amount of foundationol or wood ash.

Most varieties of lilies do not require insulation. If necessary, cover them for the winter, use hay, foliage, old raspberry branches (layer up to 30 cm). The shelter is removed immediately after the snow melts.

Planting lilies in spring is dangerous because at this time the dormant period of the plant ends. Some varieties may start flowering only next year. Unlike autumn planting, abundant watering is recommended in spring. The shoots that appear are buried in the ground completely, otherwise they will burn out in the sun. This method allows you to get more small bulbs for reproduction, and the plant itself - to get more nutrients from the soil. Care for spring lilies is needed more thorough. It is recommended to plant them separately from the autumn ones.

Tubular lilies

Summer planting of lilies is not recommended. Such plants take root less well and are more susceptible to disease.Flowering will begin, at best, only next year. When seeds appear, they should be removed to avoid depletion of the bulb. Closer to autumn, the stem will dry out, but it should be cut off only in the spring. In the heat, regular watering is required. Fertilization is not required for summer lilies.

The main care consists only in loosening the soil, timely removal of weeds and tying up the plants.

Reference. Transit times vary by region. In the south of Russia, the above-mentioned plant is transplanted in October-November, in the middle lane - in October, in the north - no later than September.

How to grow lilies from seeds

This method is safer than growing with bulbs. No disease is transmitted through seeds. When lilies are grown in large numbers, seed propagation is more economical.

Lily seeds

Planting material can be purchased at the store or obtained by yourself. Seeds are collected only from healthy plants, when the seed capsule has already acquired a brown color, but has not yet opened. If tightened with collection, the seeds can spill out from the wind.

When propagating by seeds, it is customary to divide plants into 2 groups, depending on the speed of their germination. Rapidly germinating varieties germinate in the first year. Slow sprouting varieties produce only a small bulb by autumn. Seeds may not germinate immediately, some of them may only sprout next year. Sowing is carried out directly on the beds or in seedling boxes.

For planting in open ground, a place is chosen where no other bulbous plants have grown before.

1. The soil is pre-cultivated and weeded to remove weeds. The recommended bed width is 1 m.
2. Seeds spill out across, each next line - at a distance of 15 cm from the other. Sowing is carried out on a windless day in order to control the density of the spreading of planting material.
3. When sowing randomly, there is a possibility of thickening, which leads to the defeat of plants with gray mold.
4. Before the onset of cold weather, the following varieties are sown: Martagon, Elegant, Concolor lily, cultivation and care of which is carried out in the future as usual.
5. Slow germinating varieties are sown immediately after harvest.
6. The beds are covered with a thin sand layer (5 mm), and they are insulated for the winter.
7. In summer, plants need top dressing, regular watering and weeding of the beds.

Lily seedlings

Seeds are planted in seedling boxes at the end of February or in March. Soil composition (1: 1): deciduous and sod humus, gravel and peat. After sowing, the soil is covered with a layer of sand. The optimum temperature is not lower than +18, but also not higher than +25 degrees. At higher temperatures, the percentage of germination decreases. On average, sprouts appear after 20 days. It is necessary to monitor soil moisture and protect seedlings from sunlight. In autumn, the resulting bulbs are transplanted into open ground. Flowering occurs in the second or third year.

To accelerate germination, the seeds are mixed with sand immediately after collection and stored for three months at a temperature of +5 degrees, after which they are buried in the snow for three weeks. Then they land in the usual manner.

Fertilizer

The first feeding is done in the spring before the shoots appear. Mineral and organic fertilizers are well suited for lilies: nitroammophoska granules, ammonium nitrate, fermented mullein. Fresh mullein is not suitable as fertilizer.

Organic fertilizer for lily

Wood ash is used to fix flowers and protect against diseases. You can add it up to 5 times per season.

In the second half, potassium magnesium and double superphosphate are added to strengthen the stems.

It is recommended to fertilize the soil 2 times per season: in spring and before wintering.

Excess fertilizer leads to various diseases and reduces winter hardiness.

Diseases and pests

The main ailment of lily is gray mold (the second name is botrytis).The disease manifests itself with brown spots on the buds and leaves.

• Botrytis is caused by a violation of the cultivation technology, in particular, too wet soil. Mold can also appear from temperature differences in mid-August.
• Solution: to fight the disease, it is recommended to loosen the soil (so that excess moisture does not linger), arrange a canopy over the garden. Before the onset of the rainy season, the soil is sprayed with preparations containing copper. The affected areas of the plant are removed.

Another ailment is bacterial rot. It appears in early spring and looks like yellow spots on the leaves, later passing to flower stalks. Causes extensive rotting and leaf fall.

• The reason: an excess of fertilizers (in particular - nitrogenous) and too wet soil.
• Solution: do not use fertilizers, reduce the amount of watering.

Root rot, which manifests itself as yellowing of the tops of the plant. The infected bulbs are healthy, but the roots are brownish.

• Cause: poor soil or contaminated planting material.
• Solution: remove damaged areas, disinfect.

Rust infects lily leaves. They become covered with small spots, which subsequently acquire a reddish tint. The diseased leaves dry out over time.

• Reason: carried by diseased planting material (bulbs).
• Solution: diseased leaves are removed, the plant is treated with Bordeaux liquid (1%). For treatment, fungicides can be used.

As a prophylaxis of fungal diseases, plants are sprayed with "Fitosporin".

Among pests, the squeak beetle, thrips, spider mites, aphids, larvae of click beetles, and beetles are especially dangerous for lilies. To combat insects, regular weeding and spraying with chemicals is carried out (for example, "Inta-Vir"). The squeak beetle is resistant to the effects of insecticidal preparations, it can only be dealt with manually.

Squeak beetle or lily beetle

Dangerous for mouse lily bulbs. To protect against them, special nets are used, which were mentioned above.

Features of growing lilies in the northern regions of Russia

Even taking into account the frost resistance of lilies, they do not always survive the cold in the northern regions of Russia. There are the following guidelines for growing these plants in cold areas:

1. It is necessary to study the specifics of growing your favorite variety, hybrid in specific climatic conditions before purchasing seeds or bulbs.
2. For planting, groups are selected that have proven themselves well in the conditions of a particular region.
3. If there is a choice - to buy bulbs from a collector or in a store (at an exhibition), give preference to the former. Collectors only sell varieties that grow well in the region. The exhibitions often show varieties that are not suitable for germination in Russia.
4. Analyze the site and choose a suitable place, prepare the soil.

Russian flower growers, answering the question of how to grow Asian or other lilies, recommend first of all to take care of the quality of the soil. Often, in garden plots, the soil is not suitable for planting lilies due to its composition or fatigue.

Summing up, we can say that lilies are a suitable plant for a summer cottage. They are not demanding, they are practically not affected by diseases and are tolerant of temperature changes. Good growth requires good watering, breathable, well-loosened soil, timely fertilization, and regular inspection for insect or virus infestation. In this case, the lily will delight its owners for more than one year.

Autumn planting of lilies (video)

Growing lilies in the garden (video)