Cabbage planting and care in the open field pest control

Content:

• Seedling cabbage
• Planting cabbage in open ground. Fight disease
• Cabbage pest control
• Growing cabbage

Cabbage is not the easiest crop for the gardener. Yes, she is not afraid of the cold, but keela, powdery mildew, as well as slugs, butterflies and sucking insects can nullify all efforts to grow cabbage. What you need to know about cabbage seedlings, planting it in open ground, fighting diseases and pests?

To the content

Seedling cabbage

How to understand if cabbage seedlings are ready for transplanting into the soil or not yet?

Seedlings by the time of planting in open ground (approximately 30–45 days after germination) should have 4–5 true leaves and a height of about 15 cm.

If the seedlings have overgrown, and they have more leaves than necessary, then it is better to cut off the 2 lower leaves, since they will wither anyway, and they will evaporate moisture until that moment. The stem of overgrown seedlings, as a rule, forms a curved knee. When planting in the ground, it must be covered with soil, without trying to straighten it.

The transplant should be done in the evening. If the weather is too hot the next day, then the planted seedlings should be shaded for a couple of days, you can use a cap rolled from a sheet of newspaper. As soon as a new leaf appeared, the seedlings took root.

Is it possible to grow white cabbage in a seedless way?

Such recommendations are given in many books on gardening, but I do not grow cabbage in a seedless way - because of the cruciferous flea, which hibernates in the soil and can completely devour young seedlings. Covering crops with lutrasil from fleas does not save, on the contrary, under lutrasil, the soil warms up quickly, and the flea leaves the soil earlier than usual (at a temperature of 8 ° C).

To the content

Planting cabbage in open ground. Fight disease

What measures should be taken when planting cabbage seedlings to avoid keel?

Keela is a fungal disease of cruciferous plants that is spread by spores. First of all, carefully look at the roots of the seedlings - are there any thickenings on them. These plants should be discarded immediately as they are already infected with keel.

A week before planting seedlings, the soil must be treated with 3% Bordeaux liquid (10 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), and when planting seedlings, add 1 dessert spoon of calcium nitrate to each hole in the soil, pour a full well of water and after the moisture absorbed, plant cabbage. In the future, cabbage can be watered every 2-3 weeks with a solution of this fertilizer (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

If there is no calcium nitrate, then before planting the seedlings, dip the roots into the Fitosporin solution for 1.5–2 hours.In the future, systematically water the cabbage with a solution of this drug (you can directly on the top of the head; this will at the same time protect the plant from bacteriosis) or once every 2-3 weeks - with milk of lime (a glass of lime for 10 liters of water). This solution must be carefully poured 0.5 liters under each bush.

Why does cabbage get sick with keel and can you get rid of it?

Because your soil is contaminated with keel. Keela lives only in acidic soils, and the easiest way to deal with it is by deoxidizing the soil, constantly maintaining its acidity at a pH of 5.5–6.5. To do this, every 2-3 weeks the cabbage should be watered with milk of lime. A glass of lime (better than dolomite flour) should be diluted with 10 liters of water and pour 1 liter of this talker under the root of each cabbage plant. Top up the remaining lime in the bucket with water and water over any other cruciferous plants. They all dislike acidic soil.

Yellow spots appeared on the upper side of cabbage leaves, and gray bloom on the lower side. What is it and how to save cabbage?

This is powdery mildew. I advise you to pour it with Fitosporin solution. He will save both from powdery mildew and from a black leg. In addition, it is made on the basis of humus, that is, at the same time it is a good organic feeding.

The humus contains a live soil bacterium Bacillus subtilis, which is kept in a state of suspended animation by a special preservative, that is, in hibernation. But as soon as the bacterium enters the aquatic environment, it activates and begins to devour the causative agents of all fungal and bacterial diseases, since it is a predator.

Do not wait for diseases to overwhelm your cabbage. Take preventive measures, that is, at least once every 2-3 weeks, water the plants with the Fitosporin solution, and not only cabbage, but all vegetables. You can use all vegetables and herbs processed by "Fitosporin", as well as fruits and berries on the same day, only first they must be washed with clean water.

To the content

Cabbage pest control

In the evening, the cabbage in the garden was normal, and in the morning - all nibbled. Who is her like that?

These are most likely slugs or snails that love to feast on cabbage. They go out to feed at night and gnaw large holes in the leaves. These pests can be collected and destroyed or fed to chickens. To do this, you need to spread out pieces of slate in the places of their feeding: slugs are taken under them at night, so in the afternoon you just need to turn the slate and collect the pests.

There is an old, old-fashioned method against slugs: dilute 0.25 cups of 9% vinegar in a bucket of water and pour this solution over the top of the cabbage in the evening. You can twist the stalk of the nettle around the stem of the cabbage. Slugs are afraid of nettle burns. True, in a humid summer with a large accumulation of slugs on the site, I saw that they also eat nettles.

Slugs and beer
There is an interesting observation of gardeners: slugs love beer. In those places where pests have gnawed large holes on the leaves of plants, dig in half-liter jars in the evening (the edges of the cans are flush with the soil), on the bottom of which pour beer. The slugs will get into the banks, but they won't be able to get out. In the morning, you will collect them in one jar and fill them with heavily salted water. After death, you can throw slugs on the compost heap, the birds will willingly peck them. All of these methods are suitable for snail control.

If we have treated cabbage against pests, then for how long will the protection be effective and when can cabbage be eaten now?

It depends on what you processed. If you used Fitoverm or Iskra-Bio, then these preparations are absorbed by the leaves and protect the plants from any pests, including ticks, for three weeks. Pests, even sucking, even gnawing, having tasted the treated plant, immediately stop eating, since these drugs cause paralysis of the gastrointestinal tract in them, and die after two days from hunger. After treatment with these preparations, all sprayed plants can be eaten after 48 hours.

How to deal with cabbage whites?

The cabbage white lays yellow eggs on the underside of the cabbage leaf. The butterfly is clearly visible, it flies during the day. As soon as this white (or yellow) butterfly flashed, immediately cover the cabbage with lutrasil or put a nylon stocking or a glass cloth bag from under sugar on each head of cabbage. Just dig it well into the soil, since the butterfly is a sneaky and will climb into any hole.

The cabbage whitewash is a slicker and will not lay eggs on a dirty leaf. It is enough to stain it with ash mixed in water, to which soap has been added for better adhesion. Since the strange smell of the cabbage whitewash also does not like it, you can pour the infusion of weeds on the cabbage during the flight of the butterfly.

Back to content

Growing cabbage

Why doesn't the cabbage tie the head of cabbage?

The cabbage first lays a supply of nutrients in the covering leaves, like in a pantry, so that they can be used when laying a head of cabbage. Usually a head of cabbage begins to set when there are 7–9 cover leaves. For some reason, many take them off, that is, they ruin the pantry, and the cabbage stubbornly begins to build them up again.

In addition, cabbage can simply be undernourished and undersubscribed. Start feeding a heavy dose (at least 2 liters per week) and you will be fine. The reason may also be the dryness of the soil in hot weather. Increase watering. Another common reason is insufficient lighting. Cabbage is very light-requiring and will not tie a head of cabbage in the shade.

The cabbage was planted, watering did not help. I pulled the plant out of the soil, and it has rot on its roots. Why?

The root system of cabbage rots with large amounts of nitrogen in the soil (for example, due to the introduction of fresh manure), with soil moisture above 90%.

x

Did you like the article?

Rate the article

Comment on the article "Cultivation of cabbage, fight against diseases and pests: 10 questions"

Vegetables are popular garden plants. Like any crop, cabbage also requires attention when growing. Planting and care, pest control are the daily concern of the gardener on the site.

In the process of growing garden crops, the gardener encounters insects that harm the plants. Cabbage pests damage crops during the entire growth, but they are most dangerous in the very early period of development. This is due to the fact that young plants have tender juicy leaves that attract insects, but the seedlings themselves are still weak to withstand such an onslaught. Pest control of cabbage is the main task of the gardener if he wants to get a good harvest as a result of his labors.

Planting and caring for cabbage

Planting and caring for cabbage is carried out as follows:

1. Growing cabbage seedlings. Cabbage is a light-loving plant, it requires a large amount of moisture and a temperature of 21 ° C. The optimal time for planting seeds is the end of April, and cabbage is planted in open ground at the beginning of June. For planting seedlings, a special soil mixture is prepared, which consists of half the amount of manure and half of the garden soil. Coarse sand, pine needles can be added to such a soil mixture; it will be very useful to add 25 grams of fertilizers, such as Foskamid or Nitrofoska, to a bucket of such soil. The thickness of the soil for planting should be at least 12 cm.The distance between the rows of seedlings is about 12 cm, in the row between the plants - about 1 cm.Two weeks after germination, the seedlings are thinned out so that about 5 cm remains between the seedlings. Or strong seedlings are selected and plant them in separate pots with a diameter of 7 cm.
2. The seedling is ready for planting when it has 6 true leaves. The planting pattern is on average 60x60, that is, about three sprouts per 1 square meter. Seedlings are planted in open ground in the evening or in cloudy weather. The soil around the sprout is squeezed and watered well, the soil in the aisles is thoroughly loosened.Water the seedlings as needed, the general recommendations are as follows: before the formation of a head of cabbage 3 liters per square meter, and after - five liters for the same area. After a couple of weeks, instead of missing or infected sprouts, stepping back 10 cm from the old hole, fresh ones are planted.
3. With poor growth of cabbage, it should be fed with mineral fertilizer or a solution of fermented mullein, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 6, and one tablespoon of "Foskamide" or "Nitrofoski" is diluted in 10 liters of water. Water each plant, spending half a liter of solution on it. If the soil is very dry, then the same amount of plain water is added after fertilization. After that, the cabbage spuds, this is important in the care, as it leads to the formation of adventitious roots. For the first time, they huddle three weeks after disembarkation with moist soil, and the second time - a month after that. Throughout the season, up to five loosening is carried out and weeded three times before watering or precipitation.

Dangerous cruciferous flea

One of the most dangerous pests for young seedlings of cabbage and other crops of this species is the cruciferous flea. It is a small jumping beetle with a body length of about three millimeters.

After winter is over, this pest can be hidden by the surface layer of the soil, fallen leaves, greenhouse and greenhouse crevices. Beetles wake up in early spring during soil settling. First, adult insects eat cabbage weeds, and then begin to eat cabbage vegetables, freshly planted seedlings. They damage mainly the young leaves of plants. Beetles gnaw small holes on the leaves, which leads to the fact that the leaves dry out, the plant dies.

It is especially important to combat cabbage pests - cruciferous flea beetles - in hot spring weather, when too many of them are bred. At this time, the pest is able to destroy absolutely all seedlings of the planted seedlings in large areas, since it can eat up a volume three times its weight.

Harmful cabbage aphid

Cabbage aphid is no less dangerous pest for cabbage. It is a very small insect, two millimeters long, gray-white. Aphids reproduce in a pathogenetic way, without fertilization, laying small elongated eggs that winter on stumps, weeds, on cabbage testes. In the spring, larvae appear, which develop into wingless insects, which again give birth to larvae. After that, females with wings appear, which in the middle of summer move to the cabbage from the weeds and begin to reproduce there, each giving 40 larvae.

When aphids multiply massively, the leaves of cabbage crops are completely covered with aphids, which suck out the juice and discolor the leaves. In this case, the latter curl up, and the plant stops growing and producing seeds. Pest control of cabbage - aphids - is more effective before July, when winged individuals move.

Cruciferous pest bug

Common cabbage pests are cruciferous bugs. An adult of this insect has a body 5 to 10 mm long. Bedbugs overwinter in thickets of weeds, heaps of fallen leaves, in vegetable gardens. In mid-spring, they begin to eat cabbage leafy weeds and early cabbage crops. And with the beginning of summer, female bedbugs lay eggs, from which larvae are born in a couple of weeks, which grow in a month.

Plants are harmed by both larvae and adult insects. They pierce the skin of the crop and suck the juice out of the leaves. In the wound of the leaf, droplets of bug saliva, containing enzymes that kill leaf cells, remain. At the same time, the leaves curl and die. Adult plants begin to grow poorly, therefore, cabbage pest control must be carried out in order to obtain a good harvest.

Cabbage leaf beetle

A pest such as the cabbage leaf beetle is widespread almost throughout the area.It is a small, 5-millimeter beetle, shiny, egg-shaped.

The insect damages the leaves by eating large holes in them. Insects hibernate in the soil, hidden by warm plant debris, and crawl out in the spring. In the eaten-away pulp of the foliage, female leaf beetles lay eggs, from which larvae appear in a couple of weeks. They also feed on the skin of the leaf. After about 3 weeks, the larvae descend to the ground and pupate, and after 10 days beetles are born from the pupa.

Cabbage scoop and cabbage lurker

Another cabbage pest is the cabbage scoop. The adult insect is a gray-brown moth, up to 5 cm in size. In late spring, females lay eggs, from which, three weeks later, fat, naked, green sixteen-legged caterpillars 5 cm long are born and develop for 2 months. It is the caterpillars that harm the plants - they scrape off the leaves from the underside, and then creep apart and gnaw holes in them. Towards the end of summer, caterpillars begin to eat heads of cabbage. Therefore, processing cabbage from caterpillars is the main method of dealing with cabbage scoop.

Another common cabbage pest is the cabbage stalker. It is a three-millimeter black beetle. Adults hibernate under plant debris; they do not particularly harm the plants. The larvae of this insect, which appear from eggs in the spring, are of great danger. They gnaw leaves and petioles, reach the very root. The foliage begins to turn yellow, the plants stop growing and die.

Cabbage pest control measures

Pest control of cabbage without chemicals is primarily as follows:

1. In order to prevent pests from appearing en masse, you need to regularly weed and remove weeds.
2. In dry sunny weather, seedlings or seedlings are covered with air-permeable non-woven materials.
3. It is also useful to clean up and burn plant waste after harvest and dig up the soil well in the fall.

If the plants are affected in the initial stages, then cabbage pests are controlled by folk remedies. If they have already multiplied very strongly, you should begin to deal with them using chemical methods, which is a less harmless way.

There are biological methods of control, which consist in the fact that insects, which are enemies of pests, are attracted to planting cabbage crops.

Manual pest control also helps: it can be catching butterflies for sweet food or on fire, as well as manually collecting caterpillars and pest eggs.

Cauliflower pests and the fight against them are similar and no different from other species.

Pest Control Chemistry

Often all the efforts of gardeners to combat pests do not give the desired results. The weather also plays a role in this: if there are dry hot days, harmful insects develop faster. At the same time, they also eat plants more intensively. In these cases, you have to look for more effective methods.

Chemicals give a good result in pest control. Cabbage pest control products contain the following arsenal:

• The drug "Actellic". It is used in a proportion of 20 ml per 10 liters of water, for spraying 10 square meters. one liter of solution is required.
• "Bankol" is a biological product obtained from marine annelids and is used in the same way as the first product.
• On large production areas, cabbage processing is effectively carried out using the preparations "Decis", BI-58, "Karate".
• Such strong chemical agents as "Antio", "Karbofos", "Decis extra", "Rovikurt" are recommended only for critical infection of plants with pests.
• Also, with a sufficiently strong attack of harmful insects, microbiological preparations "Bitoxibacillin", "Lepidocid", "Dipel" are used.
• To combat breeding harmful insects, such chemicals as Bazudin, Zeta, Biorin, Karbofos, Kinmiks, Fosbecid, Diazinon, Fitoverm, Intavir are used.

Cabbage pest control folk remedies

Traditional methods of pest control are very popular. This is caused, first of all, by the fact that preparations for fighting cabbage pests can be made independently, they are harmless, inexpensive, and their ingredients are readily available.

Many amateur gardeners use chemicals only in the very last case, when all other methods no longer give effective results. But chemistry is harmful to plants, and even more so to garden crops. Therefore, you need to try hard to postpone the use of these substances as far as possible in time. In this case, the plants will already gain strength, coarse and will no longer be so interesting to pests. And you need to try, using folk methods of struggle.

You can fight like this:

1. The fight against pests of cabbage with vinegar is effective: a glass of vinegar 9% is diluted in 10 liters of water with the addition of 400 g of table salt, then cabbage is watered with this solution against leaf-eating pests.
2. To scare off flea beetles and beetles, you need to pollinate cabbage plants with tobacco dust every day. Or, for the same purpose, tobacco dust and ash or slaked lime are mixed in equal parts. For pollination in the early morning, thirty grams of the drug per square meter should go.
3. And for catching fleas, glue traps are placed. To protect young seedlings, they can be covered with plastic bottle tops.
4. The processing of cabbage from caterpillars is carried out by spraying with an infusion of ash (2 glasses) and liquid soap or tar shampoo (a tablespoon) for ten liters of water, infused for a day. Alternatively, sprinkle the leaves with regular baking soda.
5. Also an effective remedy is the early planting of spring garlic, dill, mint. When their shoots appear, cabbage is planted. The smell of spices repels pests.
6. Harmful insects are also scared by pungent odors, so for watering ten liters of water, you can add fifteen drops of fir oil or sprinkle the foliage with an infusion of chicken droppings.
7. The fight against pests of cabbage with vinegar is effective: a tablespoon of 70% vinegar is diluted in 10 liters of water and the plants are sprayed with this solution. The method helps against fleas and aphids.
8. As soon as the first heaps of aphids appear on the plants, the leaves must be wiped off with a cloth, which must be abundantly soaked in soap solution. For such a procedure, you can also use infusions and decoctions of the foliage of tomatoes, potatoes, henbane branches, tobacco, onion feathers or cloves of garlic.
9. Against slugs and snails the cabbage is treated with ammonia: dilute 40 ml of alcohol in 6 liters of water and pour directly onto the leaves. After ten minutes, repeat the procedure.
10. Butterflies and beetles can be scared away by spraying with infusions of onion husks, tomato tops.
11. To combat pests, you can spread fresh nettles between the cabbage or sprinkle with mustard powder.
12. The treatment of cabbage with ammonia can also be carried out as follows: dilute 10 mg of ammonia in 10 liters of water and pour this mixture over the ground under the cabbage when planting seedlings.

Biological control measures

Wasps living on the site or attracted to it can be of great benefit, because they feed the caterpillars to their offspring. They can be attracted by the smell of diluted old jam, sweet compote or just sugar sprinkled on cabbage.

Treatment of cabbage against underground pests affecting the roots (larvae of scoops, cabbage fly, beetle) can be carried out with the help of black ants. In order for them to come, a sweet jam solution is also left in the container under the withering bush.

Sowing spicy herbs in cabbage, you can attract lacewings, horse beetles, ladybirds by smell - these are good helpers in the fight against slugs, butterflies, aphids and fleas.

Aphids are destroyed by many insects, for example, the larvae of the aphidius wasp parasitize inside the aphids. From this, the body of the aphid swells, turns red and sticks to the foliage. This pest is eaten by ladybugs and the larvae of these beetles, as well as the larvae of lacewing, hoverfly and others. To attract beneficial insects, testes of carrots, dill and other umbrella plants are sown in the garden.

The eggs of the cabbage scoop are destroyed by the trichogramma released into the cabbage.

And cruciferous bugs are threatened by natural enemies in the form of a fly, which destroys by infection of adult bugs, and trisolcus, parasitizing on bedbug eggs.

It doesn't really matter if you grow cabbage in a summer garden or in a winter greenhouse, you will definitely encounter crop pests that will interfere with getting the desired result. That is why the topic of our today's conversation is cabbage pests and methods of dealing with them.

Each of us dreams of growing a good harvest, stable and high quality, which will meet expectations and give us a lot of organic vegetables. To do this, we invest money and energy in the development of the soil, the construction of greenhouses, fertilizers and seedlings, but often we are left, so to speak, with a nose, and pests are to blame for everything. Today we will tell you about cabbage pests and how to deal with them in order to preserve the harvest.

Classic cabbage pests

Cruciferous fleas

These insects cause serious harm already at the seedling germination phase. These are small bugs that hibernate in the soil and survive the winter in plant debris. With the onset of warmth, they leave their wintering places and eat cruciferous plants on their way. First, these are weeds, and then cabbage, which we planted in the ground.

An interesting fact is that cruciferous fleas eat cabbage in dry and sunny weather, but they are afraid of moisture and during rains they simply go into the ground or under cabbage seedlings, where they wait out hardships.

Insects feed on the upper layers of leaf tissue, which is fraught with subtle ulcers on the plant. When the seedlings mature, tears appear at the sites of the ulcers. Mass damage of this kind often leads to wilting of seedlings and plant death. If the attack falls on adult plants, they already have enough strength to survive it and show a harvest, albeit of worse quality.

Also read: Technology for pruning garden blackberries in the fall for beginners

How to deal with cruciferous flea beetles on cabbage?

To save the cabbage crop from pests, it is necessary to understand that early planting in this case is only beneficial, because by the time the parasites are active, the plants are already more mature and stronger.

Increasing the resistance of cabbage to flea beetles can be achieved by feeding with slurry and saltpeter.

In order to prevent insects from destroying the crop, it is necessary to pollinate seedlings with dust. For this, hexachlorane (12%) is used in a mixture with DDT, processing is carried out at the rate of 10-15 g per 10 m2. If there is no dust, you can replace it with other preparations, for example, mix road dust, furnace ash and sodium silicofluoride (1: 1: 1), and carry out the treatment at the rate of 10 g per 10 m2. The first treatment takes place at the time of the appearance of flea beetles, then, several more treatments with a step of a week.

Cabbage fly

The insect is very similar to the house fly, albeit in smaller sizes. The parasite damages cauliflower and white cabbage from the end of May. At this point, the fly lays eggs directly on the soil near the cabbage or on the root collar of the plant. After 7-10 days, larvae appear from small heaps of eggs, which attack the roots of the culture. As a result, the root system begins to rot, the plant nutrition regimes fail and the cabbage dies. The activity of a cabbage fly can be determined by a wilted species or by the color of the lower leaf, which becomes lead-colored.

How to deal with a cabbage fly

To prevent the insect from harming cabbage plantings, we need:

• Pollination of plantings with dust, no more than 3-5 g per square meter weekly;
• If cabbage fly larvae are found, water the culture with a special solution of thiophos (30%), the concentration of which should not exceed 0.03%. Consumption for each plant - about 250 g;
• Water the cabbage with chlorophos (65%), the concentration of the solution is about 0.15-0.25%, the consumption per plant is not more than 200 g;
• If there are no such poisons, the soil is sprinkled with mothballs and sand, 1: 7, or lime with tobacco dust (1: 1), no more than 300 g per 10 m2.

Cabbage moth

This cabbage pest is a small butterfly that starts laying eggs on the cabbage leaf as early as early June. Each butterfly is capable of producing up to 100 eggs, which are clearly visible on the underside of the leaf in the form of small yellow dots. About a week after laying, a caterpillar emerges from the egg, which feeds on the pulp of the cabbage leaf, drilling blind windows in them.

Fighting the cabbage moth

The fight against a cabbage pest like this should be very effective, because during the warm period, the moth gives up to several generations, causing very serious harm. To fight cabbage moth, you should:

• Treat cabbage from pests with calcium arsenate, about 12 g per 100 m2;
• Spray with chlorophos (65%), with a solution concentration of about 0.15%, up to 500 mo per 10m2;
• You can use entobacterin, which is diluted to a solution of 0.1-0.4% and is applied in an amount of 500 ml for every 10m2.

Cabbage scoop and cabbage white

Whitefish is a large moth with black specks on its wings. It rages during the day, when it lays eggs on cabbage leaves in fairly serious portions, from 30 to 100 pieces at a time. After 1-1.5 weeks, a caterpillar is born, which quickly gnaws at the pulp of the leaf, leaving only the veins intact.

The scoop is a nocturnal pest that acts in much the same way. But the caterpillars of scoop eggs appear much earlier, after 5-8 days.

Fighting scoop and cabbage whitewash

Protection of cabbage from pests occurs in the same ways as from cabbage moth. You can use the same products, at the same rates, and you will get excellent results and save the cabbage harvest.

Cabbage aphid

Cabbage aphid is a fairly small parasite, grayish-white in color with a kind of waxy bloom. In spring, with the first serious heat, aphids are ready to appear in whole colonies, but aphids can already suck juice from cabbage, thereby killing it, by mid-summer. Small white and later brown spots, twisted leaves, loss of ovaries can be considered signs of cabbage aphids.

Methods for dealing with cabbage aphids

The processing of cabbage from pests is as follows:

• A solution of 0.2% anabasine sulfate is being prepared, processing is carried out in an amount of 500 ml per 10 m2;
• If there are no chemicals, you can use folk remedies for pests - a decoction of tobacco leaves. To do this, 400 g of tobacco is boiled for 2 hours in 2 liters of water. Further, when the broth cools down, the leaves are strained, and the liquid is poured into a bucket of water, 40-60 g of soap is added and the treatment is carried out.

Pests of white cabbage and cauliflower - serious parasitic insects, at any time ready to destroy your crop, and therefore prepare in advance for the fight and learn all the methods.

How to deal with cabbage pests (video)

Now that you know the description of the pests and the signs of their attack on the crop, and 100% understand how to deal with cabbage pests, you just have to prepare carefully, choose a quality cabbage pest remedy and protect your crop.

Attention, only TODAY!

Reviews and comments

Did you find a mistake in the text? Please select it and press Ctrl + Enter. Thank you!

Rating:

(

estimates, average:

out of 5)

The oldest vegetable, cabbage, was used in food by primitive people in the Stone and Bronze Age.In the ancient period, this useful vegetable was widely cultivated in Greece and Rome, and by the beginning of the 10th century it appeared among the Slavic peoples, taking pride of place on the table of the Russian people. Having appreciated its wonderful taste and useful properties, cabbage was used in the diet all year round, inventing many ways of harvesting and preserving it in the winter. Today, cabbage is the most popular vegetable and plays an important role in a healthy diet.

Due to the huge amount of vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, proteins, salts and organic acids it contains, cabbage is not only tasty, but also a very valuable dietary product and is actively grown in almost every subsidiary farm.

Due to the huge amount of vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, proteins, salts and organic acids it contains, cabbage is not only tasty, but also a very valuable dietary product and is actively grown in almost every subsidiary farm.

BY THE WAY!

In terms of vitamin C content, cabbage is not inferior to such popular citrus fruits as lemons and oranges.

In addition to white cabbage, which is undoubtedly the leader in its family, seven more of its "relatives" are grown in our culture, which have no less nutritional value.

Proper site preparation for planting cabbage

In order to grow a good harvest of cabbage, a planting site is prepared in the fall. The earth is dug to a depth of at least 25 cm and freed from weeds. In the spring, fertilizers are applied at the rate of 1 bucket of compost and 2 glasses of wood ash per 1 m2. Dig up the soil again, and loosen it thoroughly before planting the cabbage. Since cabbage is a moisture, light and heat-loving culture, an open, sunny area is allocated for it, and the land should be fertile, retain moisture well and have a neutral acidity level.

BY THE WAY!

It is undesirable to grow cabbage in one place for more than 3 years, and its best predecessors in the garden can be potatoes, onions, cucumbers, legumes or cereals.

Presowing work with cabbage seeds

A few days before planting, it is recommended to prepare the seeds, which consists of several important stages. To begin with, the seeds are calibrated by sifting them through a sieve with a mesh size of up to 1.5 mm. Then, to identify low-quality seeds, they are checked for density by placing them in a saline solution for 10 minutes. Settled seeds are suitable for sowing, they are washed and dried. The next step is disinfection, for which a solution of 25 g of crushed garlic and 100 ml of water is prepared, the seeds are kept in it for an hour, then washed and dried again. Preparation for planting is completed by hardening, for which a gauze bag with seeds is immersed in hot (+ 50 ° C) water for 20 minutes and cold (+ 5 ° C) - for 3 minutes. Then the seeds are dried until flowable and planted.

Growing quality, good cabbage seedlings

The prepared seeds are planted on seedlings in a loose and nutritious mixture of humus and earth (9: 1), 5 g of potassium chloride, 10 g of ammonium nitrate and 30 g of superphosphate are added to a bucket of soil. For planting, use seedling boxes, individual pots or nurseries.

On a note:

When growing seedlings with subsequent picking, the seeds are sown more densely, since the seedlings at the initial stage of growth have a rather small area of ​​nutrition.

The seeding depth is up to 2 cm. After sowing, the soil is watered abundantly. When sowing seeds in separate pots, the soil is moistened in them, the seeds are laid out in 2 pieces in grooves and covered with a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1).

Before the emergence of shoots, boxes and pots are kept without watering at room temperature, then for 3-4 days the temperature is reduced to + 7 ... 8 ° C. Subsequent maintenance is recommended at maximum illumination and daytime temperatures no higher than + 16 ° C.

The picking of seedlings from boxes into separate pots is carried out after the appearance of the first true leaf, then the seedlings are watered with water at room temperature. After 10 days, foliar dressing is given with a complex mineral fertilizer.

10 days before planting seedlings on the beds, the plants are hardened. In the same period, a second foliar dressing is carried out - with organic fertilizer. In warm weather, the seedlings are taken out into the fresh air for the whole day, and in the last 3 days before planting, they are left overnight.

On a note:

The leaves of hardened plants are covered with a waxy bloom, which allows the seedlings to withstand further frosts down to -2 ... 3 ° C,

Seedlings are usually ready for planting in open ground and usually ready 45-60 days after sowing the seeds. Before planting, the pots are watered abundantly with warm water. The best time for planting is considered to be the afternoon or any time of the day in cloudy weather. Plants extracted from the pots along with a lump of earth are placed in the wells prepared according to the 60 × 30 scheme, sprinkled with soil to the level of the first leaf, compacted and watered abundantly.

For growing seedlings in nurseries, heated soil areas are suitable. They are marked according to the 5 × 5 cm scheme, recesses are made, where several peas of superphosphate and 2-3 pieces of seeds are placed. The depressions are sprinkled with a mixture of sand and compost, watered abundantly with warm water, and the area with the plantings is covered with a film. Before sprouting, watering is carried out daily. With the appearance of the first shoots, the film is removed in the daytime. The seedlings are thinned out after the formation of the 1st true leaf, leaving the two most powerful plants, a mixture of earth with ash (1: 1) is poured into the holes, the film cover is removed. After 7-8 days, the weaker plant is removed.

See also: Frost-resistant cabbage varieties

Cabbage care

The future harvest depends on the growth rate of the cabbage outlet, therefore, 10-12 days after planting the seedlings in open ground, it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Watering during this period should be regular, every 3-4 days, then weekly. The damp soil is loosened in the aisles, the plants are healed and weeds are removed. The second top dressing - organic - is introduced before the beginning of the tying of the heads of cabbage.

BY THE WAY!

Watering cabbage is best done in the morning or in the evening, the optimum water temperature for irrigation is + 18 ... 20 ° C. Two weeks before harvesting, watering should be stopped so that the heads of cabbage do not crack.

The third feeding, also with organic fertilizers, is carried out after 20 days. After it, it is advisable to once again do the hilling of the cabbage to stimulate the appearance of additional roots and better supply the plants with food.

Red cabbage

This is a type of white cabbage. Differs in red-violet color of leaves, smaller size and higher density of heads of cabbage, increased frost resistance and longer shelf life. Red cabbage is grown in the same way as white cabbage. However, to feed it, it is necessary to use a smaller amount of nitrogen fertilizers, since their excess increases the susceptibility of plants to diseases, and also decreases the taste and marketability of heads of cabbage.

BY THE WAY!

Harvesting of this type of cabbage can be carried out even before the very frosts, since low temperatures are not terrible for it, and the taste only improves from a longer stay in cool conditions.

Broccoli

Broccoli is considered a transitional form from kale to cauliflower. Like all types of cabbage, it is cold-resistant, hygrophilous, grows well on fertile soils with a neutral level of acidity. Agrotechnology of broccoli is similar to white broccoli. It differs from other types of cabbage in the ability to give lateral suckling inflorescences after removing the central one. This allows you to remove an additional crop of inflorescences from one plant.Broccoli is sensitive to high temperatures and forms inflorescences very quickly in hot weather. If the heads of the inflorescences are not cut off in time, they will germinate easily and the plant will bloom. It differs from cauliflower in less demanding soil fertility, but the need for nitrogen-containing fertilizers is higher than that of red cabbage.

Brussels sprouts

Brussels sprouts - a plant with a stem up to 60 centimeters high and with long-petiolized leaves, in the axils of which small heads of cabbage weighing up to 15 g are formed. lowering the temperature to -7 ° С.

Another feature of Brussels sprouts is that at temperatures above + 25 ° C, the formation and filling of heads of cabbage slows down and their taste is noticeably reduced. He loves abundant and regular watering, however, thanks to a powerful root system, it tolerates a lack of moisture better than other types of cabbage. In addition, it gives the best yields on relatively light, well-drained soils with a high nutrient content, requires deep tillage before planting, a minimum feeding area of ​​60 × 70 cm and does not require hilling, since it is difficult to form adventitious roots.

For Brussels sprouts, they often use a technique such as growing. The specimens that did not have time to ripen in the fall are dug up together with the roots and grown in a greenhouse or basement, setting the plants tightly to each other in containers with well-moistened soil. For growing, a temperature of +3 .. .5 ° C and diffused lighting are sufficient.

BY THE WAY!

Unlike their more "persistent" relatives, Brussels sprouts are not stored for more than 10 days, so the best way to store them for a long time is to freeze them.

Kohlrabi

Kohlrabi differs from other types of cabbage in that it does not form a head or a head of cabbage. Its turnip-like stem is formed from the lower part of the stem and is surrounded by petioled leaves. Its diameter is most often 10-15 cm. Kohlrabi grows well on all types of soils, requires high soil moisture and medium temperatures. It differs from other types of cabbage in high early maturity, due to which it can give two or three harvests per season.

Reference by topic: Recipes for pickling cabbage

Advice

It is recommended to harvest kohlrabi when the stalk grows 6-8 cm in diameter. Further growth of the stalk makes it rough and hardly edible.

Chinese cabbage

A distinctive feature of this type of cabbage is its rapid growth. It grows well both in protected and open ground, the growing season is 45-50 days. Suitable for consumption already in the phase of 5-7 leaves, which reduces the growing season to 30-35 days. Unlike white cabbage, Peking cabbage seedlings are planted at the age of 25 days according to the 20 × 25 cm scheme. Otherwise, its agricultural technology remains the same as for other species.

By the way!

With a long daylight hours, plants can shoot, but the leaves of Peking cabbage do not lose their taste.

Savoy cabbage (more about growing Savoy cabbage)

Savoy cabbage, in comparison with white cabbage, contains more nutrients and vitamins, but it is not very popular among vegetable growers. Although this cabbage is more cold and drought tolerant, less susceptible to disease and tolerates heavy soils, its low yield, short shelf life and unsuitable for pickling make savoy cabbage less attractive to grow.

Agricultural technology does not differ from the agricultural technology of white cabbage, it is grown both through seedlings and in the open field, responds well to increased doses of organic and potash fertilizers.

Cauliflower (more)

Cauliflower is the most demanding relative in the family.She needs a highly fertile soil with good moisture, intense lighting, especially at the stage of growing seedlings, a stable average air and soil temperature. Increased requirements for moisture and sensitivity to high temperatures are due to the fact that the root system of cauliflower is poorly developed. Growing by seedlings or sowing seeds in open ground, the conditions for keeping and caring for cauliflower are the same as for white cabbage. A specific point in the cultivation of this type of cabbage is the covering of the ripening heads with rosette leaves. To do this, several leaves are broken, at the base of the rosette and fastened above the head. This technique is necessary to keep the heads snow-white and prevent mechanical damage.

Cabbage pests and how to fight them

The beneficial properties of cabbage are known not only to humans. Judging by how many pests want to eat this crop, it can be assumed that they are also aware of the value of a dietary vegetable.

Cruciferous fleas

We have to start the “battle for the harvest” already at the germination stage. As soon as the seeds begin to germinate in the soil, cruciferous fleas emerge on the warpath. These small bugs live and winter in the soil, in plant debris, in greenhouses and greenhouses. In the spring, they get out into the sun and begin to harm. While waiting for cabbage seedlings, they are interrupted by weeds from the cruciferous family, and when the first sprouts appear, they switch to cabbage. The most favorable time for their sabotage is dry and sunny weather. Gnawing the top layer of young cabbage leaves under the hot sun is a real pleasure! And at the first sign of rain and when it gets cold, you can hide under the underside of a leaf or under a lump of earth. It is necessary to fight these pests by spraying seedlings and adult plants with chlorophos (200 mg per 1 liter of water), Iskra, Aktara and others. You can use triple dusting with DCT dust (15 g per 10 m2) or a mixture of sodium fluorosilicate with furnace ash (1: 1) - when flea beetles appear, and then with an interval of 5 days.

Cabbage fly

What the fleas did not have time to spoil can go to the cabbage fly. She especially likes white cabbage and cauliflower. Pretending to be an ordinary fly, this malicious pest already from the end of May begins to lay eggs on the soil next to the root collar of the future bush with cabbage, or on the root collar itself. White larvae, which appear after 8 days, reach the roots, gnaw them first from the surface, and then penetrate inside, eating away at the core. Plants with diseased roots

can be recognized by the wilting of the leaves and their staining in a lilac-gray shade. In the fight against cabbage fly, the same DCT will help us to pollinate seedlings once a week for 2-3 weeks. You can get rid of the larvae by watering the cabbage under the root with a solution of chlorophos at a concentration of 0.3%, thiophos at a concentration of 0.03%, treating the plants with a solution of karbofos (10 g per 10 liters of water).

Cabbage white

An innocent-looking white butterfly with black spots on its wings is a cabbage white butterfly. Together with their colleague, the scoop moth, they lay eggs (40 to 100 eggs) on the underside of cabbage leaves. After 6-12 days, hordes of hungry caterpillars emerge from the eggs, which devour the cabbage leaves, leaving only coarse stems.

Cabbage aphid

After the butterflies, the cabbage aphid appears - a small insect with a pale gray waxy coating. Aphids lead a whole colony of pests, and by common efforts they suck the juices out of the plant. If they are not neutralized in time, the plant will completely die. With cabbage aphids, as well as with hordes of caterpillars, spraying with a solution of anabasine sulfate at a concentration of 0.2%, infusion of celandine (1 kg of chopped tops for 2-3 liters of boiling water), decoction of tobacco dust with the addition of soap (400 g per 2 liters of boiling water).

Harvesting cabbage

In November, it is time to take care of the late varieties; they are usually harvested last. Moreover, it is important to do it on time. If you rush and cut down the heads of cabbage in a warm season, they will fade and during storage they will suffer more from diseases, and if you are late, they will crack at the seams or freeze.

In the middle lane, late cabbage is usually harvested in late October - early November. By this time, the heads of cabbage are fully formed and reach their largest size, dense to the touch, with a slight crunch. The covering leaves on the top of the head brighten and acquire a characteristic shine, people say: "The bald head is lit up."

More precise timing of harvesting is most often determined by the weather, it all depends on how early the frost comes. You need to start harvesting cabbage when the night temperature drops to 0 ... -2 * C, in dry weather, so that the plant has as little moisture as possible.

An air gap between the leaves allows the head of cabbage to tolerate well below freezing temperatures. Late-ripening varieties withstand short-term frosts up to -4-5'С on the root.

So that you know

On the root, cabbage is able to withstand frosts down to -5 ... -7 ° С, but if cut heads of cabbage get under such temperatures, their keeping quality will worsen. During storage, they will deteriorate starting from the stump. Therefore, if the cold weather began before you had time to remove the heads of cabbage, then do not rush to cut the cabbage, but give it a few days to thaw in the garden.

You can calculate the harvest time by adding the number of days it takes for the cabbage to reach maturity to the germination date (this information is usually found on the seed package). However, this method also does not guarantee special accuracy. After all, one cannot discount both the vagaries of the weather and the delay in the time of planting seedlings. And keeping track of the emergence of sprouts is still a task ...

From personal experience

I shoot heads of cabbage in late October - early November, when at least three frosts have passed. Low temperatures, in my opinion, improve the flavor of the cabbage, making the forks juicy, crispy and sweet.

I cut those that are intended for fresh storage a little earlier (10 days), trying to keep the upper green leaves intact. I keep the forks of the one intended for fermentation as long as possible, they make delicious cabbage.

Do not hurt the lady

Those heads of cabbage that are sent for storage must be strong and healthy, without any damage. Cut or chop them down carefully, with the longest stump and green, loose leaves. It is better to immediately put them in a separate heap and let the outer leaves slightly wither. The heads of cabbage should be treated with care: do not throw or injure them.

An important point

Already cut heads of cabbage cannot be kept in the sun for a long time before storage: they quickly wither, lose their juiciness and crunch.

Then, when laying in the basement, the stump is shortened to 3 cm, and excess and damaged covering leaves are removed from the head of cabbage, leaving 2-3 to protect the fork from bruises and dirt. According to my observations, those heads of cabbage that are uprooted are stored longer, and the cabbage stumps are chopped off before laying in the basement.

Spread cabbage strips in advance

The best place for storing cabbages is a dry basement with low air humidity. A week after harvesting, place the cabbage in one layer on the shelves. If there is not enough space, wrap the heads of cabbage in paper, and so on in several rows. Place the stump up on the shelves.

On a note

Cabbage will be well stored if you put dry straw under the heads of cabbage (it absorbs moisture well) and change it as soon as it gets wet. Better yet, use dried fern leaves for bedding, they will protect the heads of cabbage from rot.

I have been keeping my cabbage harvest lately by wrapping it in plastic wrap after drying. For this method, late varieties are better suited, and then only those with dense, like a stone, forks (Gingerbread man, Megaton, Stone head).

Before wrapping the head of cabbage in a film, I cut shortly each stump (up to 1 cm) and remove all loose leaves. I take rolls of film wide (45 cm) and make at least two or three full turns around each, smoothing each one tightly. After that, I put the cabbage in cardboard boxes and lower it into the basement.

If you harvest according to all the rules, cabbage will be stored for a long time.

A proven way to ferment cabbage so that it crunches!

Chop the cabbage, add grated carrots, dill and caraway seeds (if any, cranberries), mix and put in jars. Tamp with your hand, but not hard.

Prepare the filling: for 1 liter of boiled water, take 2 tbsp. tablespoons of salt and sakha-Stir well and pour over the cabbage.

Let stand for 2 days, then put in a cool place for a day, then put in the refrigerator after 3 days. The cabbage is crispy and tasty.

Growing cabbage: sharing our experience

Fighting the block in the wilderness

In recent years, I began to notice that the quality of my harvest depends primarily ... on pests! No matter how prepared the soil for planting, no matter what fertilizers you use, but if you do not take timely measures to destroy various pests, all work can easily go down the drain! The cruciferous flea is one of my rivals for the harvest. Very

she loves planting cabbage, radish, radish and other crops of this family. Inhabits ubiquitous; but! These small pests, during mass reproduction, can completely destroy cultivated plants in a few days: they eat up the leaves, turning them simply into lace "napkins".

I want to share some good ways to deal with cruciferous flea beetles.

Method one - pollination of seedlings with wood ash. It is necessary to process the lower and upper sides of the leaves at least three times and with a break of 4-5 days. Spraying with an ash and soap solution is even better. I do the infusion like this: I pour 3 kg of sifted ash with 10 liters of hot water and leave for two days. Then I filter the solution through a fine sieve or cheesecloth (to prevent clogging of the sprayer of the sprayer), add 40 g of laundry soap, which must be softened in advance in a small amount of hot water. This solution can be applied several times per season in 10-14 days.

You can use a mixture of tobacco powder and wood ash (1: 1). By the way, it is on sale if you do not have the opportunity to cook it yourself. Plants and the ground around them are sprayed or watered and showered with this mixture. I can open a little secret. It is very convenient to use nylon stockings or tights: they pour the mixture there and, shaking them over the plants, pollinate them.

A mixture of wood ash and slaked lime (1: 1, 20-30 g per m2) or black ground pepper works effectively. The aisles are processed. Pollination of plants with pepper should be done in the morning after dew. And in dry weather it is very good to spray the plants with a vinegar solution. To do this, dilute 1-2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. tablespoons of 70% vinegar essence.

You can also remember the "good old naphthalene". Its insect repelling properties have been relevant since my grandmother's days! Row spacing can be sprinkled with mothballs per 10m2 - 30-50 g.

I always have a lot of celandine in my backyard, I dry it both for medicinal purposes and in order to "pollinate" the plants that the flea likes with it.

My neighbor is fighting a flea very interestingly. She has three dogs, she washes them with flea shampoo. And so she spreads 3 caps of this shampoo in a bucket of water and sprinkles the plants! I have to try it too - the effect is obvious.

For the purpose of prevention, I also allow my dill to grow anywhere - the flea does not like its smell, as well as the smell of potatoes, marigolds, caraway seeds, coriander.

Growing cabbage - video

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

Growing white cabbage - planting and care (Tver region): Planting and caring for cabbage ... Cabbage variety Nadezhda - growing: How I grow cabbage in ... Savoy, red and white cabbage-growing and care (Novosibirsk): Savoy,red and white cabbage ... Savoy cabbage (photo) planting cultivation and care: Growing and caring for the Savoyard ... Growing cabbage on spunbond - my reviews and advice: How to grow cabbage on spunbond ... Cabbage seedlings in cups: How to grow seedlings for early ... Growing decorative cabbage - what kind of plant is it: What is ornamental cabbage and ...