Persimmon chocolate planting and care in the open field

Persimmon

(Diospyros) is a member of the Ebony family. It unites almost 300 species, of which are of the greatest interest for our climatic zone

persimmon ,

persimmon virgin ,

kaki and artificially obtained hybrid forms with increased frost resistance.

Persimmon

Persimmon types

Caucasian persimmon (Diospyros lotus)

Natural habitat - the Caucasus. The trees are vigorous, reaching a height of 30 m.

Caucasian persimmon (wild) Frost resistance of the ground part is about -22 ... -24 ° C, and of roots - about -10 ... -12 ° C. Fruits weighing up to 20 g, tart, when ripe - almost black, with small seeds up to 4 pcs.

Seedlings of this species are used as rootstock for cultivars. Their root system is branched, fibrous. Saplings tolerate transplanting well, grow on almost any soil, are sufficiently drought-resistant, do not give shoots in the garden. There are no cultivars.

Persimmon virginiana (Diospyros virginiana)

Persimmon virgin (or virgin) native to North America. The trees are medium-sized, up to 20 m tall, with frost resistance down to -35 ° C. The root system can withstand soil freezing down to -15 ° C, therefore, it is recommended to use seedlings of this type as a stock for the promotion of cultivars to more northern areas.

Persimmon virginiana. Photo: Gphoto, en.wikipedia.org Another valuable quality of virgin persimmon as a rootstock is that it grows well on heavy clayey waterlogged soils, and also has a longer period of natural winter dormancy, which does not provoke a premature start of sap flow of the cultivar from for long winter thaws.

It should be borne in mind that cultivars grafted on it:

• tolerate transplantation worse (due to the peculiarity of forming weakly branched taproots),
• more hygrophilous,
• develop more slowly
• less productive
• less durable.

There are cultivars called in America persimons (English persimmon - persimmon).

Eastern persimmon (Diospyros kaki)

Kaki began to spread from China. By now known more than a thousand varieties with various biological and commercial characteristics. We are interested in varieties with frost resistance of at least -17 ° C, some of which are listed below.

Eastern persimmon in Japan. Photo: Geomr, ru.wikipedia.org In the post-war years in the USSR in the State Nikitsky Botanical Garden, by means of directed selection, A.K. Pasenkov was the first in the world to obtaininterspecific hybrid of oriental and virgin persimmons, and from its seedlings the best was chosen, later called ‘Russian woman '... Its frost resistance is -26 ° C.

Left: fruits of the 'Rossiyanka' variety. Right: 'Nikitskaya burgundy'. Subsequently, an employee of the GNBS, Alexander Naumovich Kazas, obtained the ‘Nikitskaya bordovaya’ variety, which, when tested for freezing, showed even higher frost resistance. The taste of 'Nikitskaya burgundy' is beyond praise.

Persimmon varieties

According to the foreign classification, persimmon varieties are divided into two groups:varyingand constant.
Persimmon fruit

Varying varieties

Varyingcalled those varieties, the fruits of which, depending on how they were formed - after fertilization or parthenocarpic, - have different consumer qualities:

• Fruits formed parthenocarpically and not containing seeds, upon ripening the color of the pulp does not change, and the astringency is lost only after maturation; 
• Fruits of the same varieties, even on the same tree, but formed after fertilization and having seeds already at picking have an impatient pulp, and its color changes to a darker, to brown.

Constant varieties

TOconstant include varieties, the fruits of which, regardless of pollination and seed formation, pulp color do not change... They are divided into two subgroups:tartandsweet.

TOtartconstant varieties include:

• ‘Hachiya’ (‘Hachiya’)
• ‘Tanenashi’
• 'Gosho' (‘Gosho’)
• ‘Saijo’ (‘Soyo’)
• ‘Seedless’
• ‘Tsuru’ (‘Tsuru’)
• ‘Costata’ (‘Costata’)
• ‘Yemon’
• ‘Aizumishirazu’ (‘Aizumishirazu’)
• 'Dream'
• ‘Russian woman’
• ‘New’
• ‘Nikitskaya burgundy’
• ‘Meader’
• ‘John ​​Rick’
• ‘Weber’ (‘Weber’)

The astringency in their fruits disappears only after complete biological maturation in the process of maturation and softening of the pulp.

TOsweetconstant varieties include:

• ‘Jiro’ (‘Giro’)
• ‘Krymchanka 55’
• ‘Find’
• ‘Kiara’
• ‘Meotse saukune’
• ‘Mishirazu’ (‘Mishirazu’)
• ‘Fuyu’ (‘Fuyu’)
• 'The twentieth century'

The fruits of these varieties, regardless of the presence of seeds in them, become sweet after they acquire a characteristic varietal color: already during picking, even hard, without softening in maturation.

Persimmon oriental variety 'Jiro'.

1. tannid(or constant), which corresponded to constant astringent;
2. bestannid(or sweet), which corresponded to constant sweet;
3. varying(orblotches, orchocolate). 

Varieties and forms of oriental persimmon

Among those introduced and obtained by breeders, the following can be distinguished varieties and forms of oriental persimmon:

• ‘Seedless’ - constant, mid-season, fruits are round-quadrangular, red-orange, very sweet, weighing 90-150 g.
• ‘Aizumishirazu’ (‘Aizumishirazu’) - constant, late ripening, flat-rounded fruits, orange, weighing 60-140 g.
• ‘Tanenashi’ (‘Tanenashi’) - constant, mid-season, round-conical fruits, yellow-orange, weighing 80-260 g.
• ‘Hachiya’ (‘Khachia’)- constant, late ripening, cone-shaped fruits with a black dot at the top, orange, very sweet, weighing 60-200 g.

Eastern persimmon, grade 'Khachia'

• ‘Costata’- constant, very late ripening, fruits are conical-ribbed, orange, weighing 40-120 g.
• ‘Tsuru-gaki’- constant, very late ripening, cylindrical fruits with a conical tip, orange, weighing 50-130 g.
• ‘Big Tamopan’- constant, very late ripening, flat fruits with a constriction, dark orange, weighing 150-270 g.
• ‘Dream 459’ (‘Kuro-kuma’ x ‘Fuyu’) - constant, mid-season, fruits are round-flat, red-orange, weighing 45-200 g. Monoecious.
• 'Satellite'- constant, mid-ripening, round-ribbed fruits, orange, weighing 40-100 g.Monoecious is a good pollinator for oriental persimmons.
• ‘Zenji-maru’- variable, mid-season, round, orange fruits, weighing 20-100 g. Monoecious - a good pollinator for eastern persimmons.
• ‘Kuro-kuma’- variable, mid-ripening, flat-rounded, orange fruits, weighing 40-70 g.
• ‘Hiakume’ -variable, late ripening, orange fruits, weighing 60-220 g. Often completely sheds the ovary without pollination.
• ‘Yankin-tsuru’- variable, late ripening, fruits are cylindrical or oval, orange, weighing 50-90 g.
• ‘Shagotsu-gaki’- variable, late ripening, fruits are broadly conical, dark orange, weighing 80-210 g.
• 'Ukrainian'- variable, early ripening, cylindrical, orange fruits, very sweet, weighing 40-100 g. Monoecious variety.
• ‘Dawn 187’- variable, mid-ripening, round-flat, sometimes ribbed, orange fruits weighing 50-200 g.
• 'Chocolate 326'- variable, mid-ripening, round-conical, orange fruits, weighing 45-150 g.
• ‘Daughter of Saburoza’- varying, mid-ripening, oval-ovoid fruits, orange-red, weighing 35-90 g.
• 'Star'- variable, late ripening, fruits are round, orange, weighing 60-120 g. Male flowers are formed in a year.
• 'Excellent' (‘Chinebuli’, ‘Jiro’ (‘Jiro’), ‘Delicious’ (‘Delicious’) - full-bodied, late-ripening, flat-oval rectangular fruits, orange, weighing 60-220 g. Male flowers are formed in a year.
• ‘Fuyu’ (‘Fuyu’)- hardy, late ripening, round-flat, red-orange fruits, weighing 30-110 g. Monoecious variety.

Eastern persimmon, grade 'Fuyu'

• ‘Ishi kick her jiro’- a clone of the ‘Excellent’. The fruits are larger, impatient.
• ‘Krymchanka 55’- hardy, mid-ripening, round, dark orange fruits, weighing 60-120 g, very sweet.
• ‘Find’- hardy, late ripening, round, yellow-orange fruits, weighing 30-150 g. Monoecious variety.

Persimmon varieties virgin

• ‘Meader’- constant, very early ripening, fruits are flat-rounded, dark orange, fragrant, weighing 30-50 (very rarely up to 100) g.
• ‘John ​​Rick’- constant, early ripening, flat-rounded fruits, orange-dark red, small.
• ‘Weber’- constant, early ripening, fruits are round, dark, small.

Hybrid varieties of Nikitsky Botanical Garden

• ‘Russian woman 18’- constant, mid-season, flat-rounded fruits, orange, very sweet, aromatic, weighing 45-60 g.
• ‘Nikitskaya burgundy’- constant, mid-ripening, flat-rounded fruits, reddish-claret, sweet aromatic, weighing 50-150 g.
• ‘Goverla Mountain’- constant, mid-ripening, flat-rounded, orange fruits, of a pleasant peculiar consistency, weighing 60-300 g.
• ‘Mountain Roman Kosh’- firm, mid-ripening, flat-rounded, orange fruits, weighing 70-200 g.
• ‘Mount Rogers’- constant, mid-ripening, flat-rounded, orange fruits weighing 40-150 g.
• ‘New’- constant, mid-season, medium-sized fruits. Monoecious variety, good pollinator for all persimmon varieties.

Ripening terms

According to the ripening period, or rather the removal of fruits, persimmon is divided into three groups of varieties:

1. earlyfilmed (in the south) from mid-September to mid-October;
2. mid-season - from October to early November;
3. late- ripening from the second half to the beginning of December.

Persimmon harvest The ripening time is significantly influenced by weather conditions. The fruits can be removed a little earlier than the required date, they can ripen in maturation, but then the quality will be worse.

Fruits can be removed ahead of time, they will ripen in maturation, but the quality will be worse

Pollination

Persimmon is characterized by the fact that its plants form three types of flowers: female, male and (very rarely) - bisexual. 

Persimmon flowers Other varieties form only female flowers, these are: 'Hyakume', 'Aizumishirazu', 'Sidles', 'Gosho gaki', 'Khachia', 'Tanenashi', 'Tamopan' ('Tamopan'), 'Tsuru', 'Meotse saukune', 'Emon', 'Tsurunoko', 'Kostata', 'Rossiyanka', 'Nikitskaya burgundy' and others.Some of them, under favorable agrotechnical conditions, can produce fruits without fertilization.

Other varieties besides female form and male flowers - annually and in large quantities: ‘Shagotsu gaki’, ‘Nakhodka’, ‘Galey’, ‘Zenji maru’, ‘Dream’, ‘New’, ‘Sputnik’.

There are varieties that form along with female and male flowers, but periodically, after 1-2 years: ‘Star’, ‘Fuyu’, ‘Giro’, ‘Adorable’.

It should be borne in mind that pollination significantly affects the consistency of the fruit pulp and its taste. Seedless fruits are always tastier than seedless ones.... Interestingly, even in the same fruit with 1-2 seeds, the pulp surrounding the seeds is always softer and tastier than in the part where there are no seeds.

Seed-containing persimmons are always tastier than seedless ones For higher yields and high quality fruits most varieties require pollination of female flowers... However, there are varieties that bear fruit well without fertilization, forming seedless fruits. On this basis, persimmon varieties can be divided into three groups:

1. Varieties requiring pollination: 'Hiakume', 'Gosho gaki', 'Zenji maru', 'Tiedimon', 'Aman Kaki', 'Tracta Kaki', 'Huro kuma', 'Tsurunoko', 'Kaki mela', 'Yankin tsura', 'Step otsu gaki ',' Gailey ',' Maru ',' Ezo ichi ';
2. Varieties bearing fruit without pollination: Sidles, Big Tamopan, Tanenashi, Gosho, Kostata.
3. Varieties included in the intermediate group: ‘Khachia’, ‘Adreula’, ‘Jiro’, ‘Aizumishirazu’, ‘Emon’, ‘Soyo’, ‘Nikitskaya burgundy’, ‘Russian woman’ and others.

Trees of the intermediate group of varieties bear fruit even without fertilization. But in order to increase yields, as well as increase the size of the fruits and improve their taste,

pollination required ... Varieties such as 'Khachia', 'Aizumishirazu', after pollination of flowers, form seed

fruits with sweeter pulp than seedless fruits.

Influenced by pollination the color of the pulp changes, in some varieties it takes on a dark brown color: either around the seeds (‘Khachia’, ‘Aizumishirazu’), or throughout the fruit (‘Zengi’ - synonyms ‘Zengimaru’, ‘Zenjimaru’). In the Twentieth Century and Fuyu varieties, only small brown spots appear around, and the main color of the flesh remains orange.

It is noticed that in fruits with immature seeds, the color of the pulp does not change, and only as the fruits and seeds ripen, it gradually begins to darken.

All in all, not only the yield, but also the quality of the fruits depends on the fertilization of persimmon flowers, therefore, when laying a persimmon garden, it is recommended to plant one pollinator for every 8-9 trees with functionally female flowers. If it is not possible to plant a pollinator, it will be necessary to process persimmon flowers, and then set fruits (if they begin to be dropped)aqueous solution of gibberellin.

Persimmon ovaries The concentration of the solution will have to be selected empirically, primarily due to the quality of the phytohormone on sale. With irregular soil moisture, gibberellin treatment is required.

Choosing a place for planting persimmons

When choosing a place for planting persimmons, you need to be guided by the following conditions:

• The best soil for persimmons -alluvial loamy or sandy loamy, quite fertile, with a depth of groundwater no closer than 0.75 m from the earth's surface: the bulk of the roots is located in a layer of 0.1-0.5 m.
• Plant nutrition area - 25 m² for low-growing varieties and before 64 m² - for vigorous ones, with possible compaction with plantings of short-lived fruit, for example, columnar forms or peaches.
• The place should be protected from dry winter winds.
• Persimmon is photophilous, in a shaded place its leaves are deformed, shoots acquire signs of etiolation, fruits fall off.
• Watering should be provided, but waterlogging will be harmful - increased growth of shoots will begin to the detriment of the nutrition of the fruits, which will begin to fall off.

Persimmon photophilous

In more northern latitudes, unusual for persimmons, you can try to grow it

in wall formation planting on the south side of the heated building, but not on the insulated wall. Persimmons can also be formed in a creeping form.

Selection and planting of seedlings

You need to purchase seedlings from the manufacturer. Some addresses are given in the appendix. Remember: only the manufacturer can give you their address and warranty! When buying from dealers in the market, you can buy not even a persimmon, but if it is a persimmon, then wild. Even a seedling purchased at the exhibition may not correspond to the named variety and may not be frost-resistant enough for your climatic zone, that is, it will freeze out in the very first winter.

Young persimmon trees Persimmon seedlings open-rooted should be purchased in the fall, and the less time has passed since digging, the better. Persimmons, with proper digging, should retain thin branched roots, which are very sensitive to both drying (die after 1-2 hours) and waterlogging. If the fibrous roots nevertheless died, but the taproots are healthy, then the seedling is quite suitable for planting, but it will start growing in the spring with a delay, maybe even in July.

In the southern regions in a permanent place, you can plant until November, but it is better earlier, while the earth is warm, the root takes root in the soil.

In more northern areas (and in the south, if they could not plant on time), it is advisable to postpone the planting until the spring after the threat of severe frosts has passed.

Rules for planting persimmon seedlings

1. When planting, it is imperative to install a support stake.
2. The place of inoculation, if it is done on the root collar, deepen 5-10 cm below ground level.
3. In order to avoid the breakage of fibrous small roots during soil compaction, the seedling during planting must be installed not in the center of the planting pit, but placed against the wall, straightening the roots along it, which must be pressed with soil.
4. Immediately after the autumn planting, spud the stem, and when frost sets in, put the box and fill it with insulating material, you can even earth.
5. In subsequent years of growth, in winter, insulate the bole and skeletal branches, and apply a reflective layer on top. In the southern regions, you can limit yourself to whitewashing with a lime mortar, but it should be borne in mind that after a long warm period at the beginning of winter followed by a sharp cold snap, even very frost-resistant varieties of Virginia persimmon have damage to the stem in the form of delamination of the bark from wood with the death of cambium within 20 cm above and below the level of the snow cover.
6. Warm the trunk circle by mulching with improvised material. This is especially important if the rootstock is Caucasian persimmon.

Persimmon is a very early-growing culture: a Caucasian persimmon grafted on a rootstock can begin fruiting in the second year after planting in a permanent place, and virginian on a rootstock - for 3-4 years. ‘Nikitskaya burgundy’ is especially fast-growing.

Crown formation

But do not flatter yourself and get carried away with the primary harvest, it is more important form a crown, otherwise the trees will look untidy, fruiting will move to the periphery and up, and the branches will begin to break off.

The formation of the crown of persimmon is very important for the development and fruiting.As the main shape of the crown, experts recommend changed leader, which is characterized by strength, good illumination and low tree height. The interval between skeletal branches in such a crown is 20-40 cm. Their number can be 4-6 pcs.

• In the spring of the first year growth, the seedling is cut off at a height of about 80 cm.By autumn, an extension of the central conductor grows from the upper bud, and two radially located ones are left in growth from the lateral buds, one at the height of the stem (about 50 cm), the other - 20-40 cm higher from her.Shoots from the rest of the buds need to be constantly pinched or simply removed the buds themselves.
• Spring next year the central conductor is cut at a height of about 1.5 m, and the lateral branches are cut, leaving 40-50 cm each so that the semi-skeletal branches are located as close to the trunk as possible.
• Into the summer stimulate the development of a pair of oppositely located skeletal branches, which should be perpendicular to the plane of the lower two branches. In the same way, another tier is formed, then the central conductor is removed with a transfer to the side branch.

M.D. Omarov (All-Russian Research Institute of Floriculture and Subtropical Crops, Sochi) recommends forming a crown palmetto, which will significantly increase the yield. Such a crown is required in wall cultivation (you can learn more about it from the article Growing fruit trees on trellises).

Most experts agree that a cultivar grafted on a high (over 1 m) virgin persimmon stem is more resistant to low temperatures in winter and avoids frost damage to the stem. For industrial plantings, this may be true, but in the home garden, under the close attention of the gardener, there is always the possibility of protecting the trunk and skeletal branches at critically low temperatures. Moreover, if a cold winter happens, a tall bole will not save the cultivar, and it is possible that it itself will suffer. But if the seedling is planted with a deepening of the grafting site, then from the dormant buds located in the underground part, new shoots will grow, from which it will be possible to form a new crown.

Features of persimmon care

The main criteria for success are agricultural technology, protection from diseases and pests.

Like other horticultural crops, persimmons need to be cared for.A prerequisite is preparation for wintering.like this:

• Stop watering 1-1.5 months before the end of the growing season, so that the shoots ripen;
• Phosphate and potash fertilizers that promote good maturation of wood. They need to be applied in higher doses. in the second half of summer... Especially effective is foliar feeding with 0.5-1.5% 1-3-day water extract of superphosphate with 0.5% potassium sulfate with the addition of potassium permanganate (0.02-0.05%) or potassium iodide (0.02%) ... Spraying begins with lower concentrations at the end of summer and is carried out weekly, gradually increasing the concentration of the working solution to maximum values.

Persimmon plants are able to accumulate in fruits iodine... If in the coastal regions the absorption of iodine comes from the air saturated with it, then in the continental regions the addition of potassium iodide to the solution for foliar feeding is more than desirable.

On the issue of frost resistance persimmon, there are different opinions, and the difference sometimes reaches 3-5 ° C. And indeed: even nearby identical trees growing nearby often differ in frost resistance.

With good preparation for wintering, the frost resistance of the plant can be 2-3 ° C higher. In the northern regions, where there are no thaws, you can experiment with late autumn tree treatment with available cryoprotectants: 0.2% dimethyl sulfoxide solution, 0.05% glycerin, "Mars" or "Vympel" preparations. By the way, treatment with "Vympel" accelerates the ripening of fruits, increases their size, increases sugar content.

In areas with withering winter winds, you can try to treat trees after leaf fall with solutions of latex or PVA glue at a dose of 30-50 ml per 10 liters of water.

Persimmon bears fruit on the shoots of the current year, in last year's buds (as in grape buds) all the information for a future branch with leaves and flowers is laid. Flowers will only come from well-executed buds located at the end and in the middle of the future shoot. The key to a good harvest is getting strong annual growth... Which, in turn, depends on the provision of trees with nutrients and water and on pruning.

Strong pruning is used only when forming the crown. In the fruiting period, they are limited to thinning, removing damaged and drying out branches. Only branches longer than 50 cm and branches with numerous short (less than 10 cm) shoots are shortened. In addition, it should be borne in mind that heavy pruning after laying the crown skeleton negatively affects the durability of the trees.

A vegetative bud is laid in September-October of the year preceding flowering; by the end of winter, it acquires a conical shape. Two outer scales cover it 2/3 of its length, two inner ones are densely pubescent. There are up to 18 rudimentary leaves. In early spring, the formation and development of flower buds begins in the axils of these leaves.

For your information: You can try to stimulate an increase in the number of flowers by treating the trees with an aqueous solution of caffeine. For this purpose, you can use the pharmacy tableted caffeine-sodium benzoate.

Bloom occurs in May-June, less often in July and lasts 1-1.5 months. The life span of a male flower is 1-2 days, they are small, 2-4 pcs. in a bundle. Female flowers are larger, have a pitcher-like shape. They are four-petal, pale green in color, solitary and capable of fertilization within 3-4 days.

Flowering lasts 1-1.5 months. Fruit size is highly dependent on growing conditions. For example, the fruits of 'Nikitskaya burgundy' can weigh 130 or 30 g.

Yield it is different for different varieties, dependence is manifested on the formation, and on nutrition, and on the fertilization of flowers. At the age of four, the tree can give about 10 kg of fruit, at the age of ten - up to 200 kg, with a subsequent constant increase in yield. With a plentiful harvest, apply chat room (installation of backwaters).

The yield of persimmons depends on many factors When the growth of shoots decreases and fruiting stops, a good effect gives anti-aging pruning... In the year of such pruning, the trees do not yield, but the next year they bear fruit on a par with the rejuvenated ones, and then increase the yield.

Soil in the garden recommend to contain under black steam with autumn sowing of siderates, which are plowed in April-May next year or mowed and ground into mulch. When the garden reaches the age of 8-10 years, it is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers based on the active ingredient: nitrogen and phosphorus - 1.5 kg each, potassium - 0.5 kg per one hundred square meters.

Pest and disease control is usually not done, since we did not notice any serious damage by them. Although in fairness it should be noted that persimmon can be affected by scab, gray rot and phomopsis, from which it is enough to spray twice (before and after flowering) with Bordeaux liquid, or better with systemic drugs - at least "Ridomil".

Of the pests of persimmon, the Californian scale insect and ticks can definitely harm, the leaves can be eaten by some types of caterpillars. The root system of the Caucasian persimmon can be affected by root cancer.

Harvesting and storage of crops

Cleaning is done from stairs or stands. Carefully, without damaging the skin of the fruit, cut the stalk with a pruner closer to the fruit.

Harvesting persimmons Placed for storage in boxes on a layer of loose material (sawdust, chaff, shavings) with the stalk down close to each other; the next layer is laid with the stalk up. These two layers are sprinkled with packaging material, on the layer of which the fruits are again laid with the stalk down (third layer), with the stalk up (fourth layer), then again a layer of packaging material - and so on.

Packaged fruits can be stored at a temperature of 0 ... + 1 ° C and an air humidity of 80-90% for two or more months.

If you need to urgently consume tart fruits that have not reached consumer standards a little, you can simply freeze them in the freezer. After thawing, they lose their astringency. Strongly unripe fruits should not be frozen - the taste will turn out to be unimportant.

If necessary, persimmon fruits can be frozen. It also accelerates fruit ripening by pricking in 10-12 places and rubbing them with ethyl alcohol.

Joint storage of persimmons and apples in hermetically sealed bags accelerates the loss of astringency due to the release of ethylene by apples.

Heating fruit tart constant varieties (even those that have lost astringency after softening) up to + 50 ... + 60 ° C (during drying or canning) returns them to their former astringency.

Application

Each garden is rich in fruit crops familiar to the region. In the spring, the gardens are buried in flowers, in the fall - in fruits. But more and more gardeners appear - lovers of exotic fruits, unusual for the region. Their many years of work and time spent are rewarded by obtaining unusual fruits. And although their harvest may be quite small, it attracts with its uniqueness. The mysterious persimmon, a natural storehouse of useful substances, belongs to such exotic cultures.

Origin and distribution area

Persimmon belongs to the ebony family and is allocated to a separate genus - Diospyros. Latin has Greek roots and translated into Russian means "food of the gods", "divine fire". Cultivated persimmons are often called date plums or wild dates.

According to various sources, some consider China to be the homeland of persimmon, where its wild forms are 500 years old. Others consider Indochina as a place of origin, where wild forms live at an altitude of 2.5 km above sea level and withstand temperatures below freezing up to 18-20 ° C.

“Having tried it once, you won't forget” - people say about persimmon. Indeed, this amazing fruit, which forms the taste of the fruit only after frost, is mesmerizing. Today it is difficult to name a country that does not know the fruits of persimmon. The culture is widespread in many countries of Europe and Asia. It is successfully grown in China, Japan, the Philippines, Australia, Indonesia, USA, Israel. This list of states also includes the Eurasian continent of the CIS and Russia. Persimmon comes to sales markets from the Krasnodar Territory, southern Stavropol, Fergana Valley and other warm regions. As a fruit crop, persimmon is cultivated in all countries and regions where there are suitable climatic conditions, in open and protected ground.

Brief description of persimmon

Under natural conditions, persimmon trees reach 10-12 and even 20-30 m in height and in appearance resemble an apple tree. The leaves are alternate, dark green, without pubescence, a lighter shade below. By the shape of the leaf blade - broadly lanceolate, oblong-ovate, by autumn they acquire a red color of different shades and intensity.

Persimmon flowers are located in the leaf axils, singly or in bunches of several on short pedicels. The calyx and corolla are 4-lobed. Corolla petals are yellowish white. The calyx grows to the fetus. Persimmon blooms from May to June. Flowers are formed of 3 types: female, male and mixed. Plants can be mono- and dioecious, when the female and male flowers are located on different trees.

Novice gardeners sometimes cut down barren persimmon trees (male), depriving the crop and the tree with female flowers. Persimmon belongs to insect pollinated crops. Sometimes non-pollinated female flowers develop as parthenocarpics and form seedless fruits. (Parthenocarp - fertilization without pollination of plants).

Persimmon fruit is a berry, the color of which, depending on the species, ranges from brownish yellow to bright orange, bright red, brown, with a tasty slightly tart pulp, unusually sweet in biological maturity. The pulp contains 3-8-10 seeds. The smooth skin of the berry and the shape resembles a tomato. Fruit weight from 100 to 500 g. Unripe fruits have an astringent, bitter taste due to the high content of tannins. Fruits ripen in October-November, remaining on the tree after the leaves fall. It is after freezing that the fruits acquire their unusually sweet taste.

Persimmon tree with fruits

Where can you grow persimmons? Persimmon requirements for growing conditions

Persimmon, according to breeders, has more than 725 species and naturally grows in subtropical and tropical regions of different countries. In other regions, persimmons can also be grown in open and closed ground, creating conditions that meet its requirements. If you decide to try to grow persimmons in your country house in the open field or at home, carefully read the requirements of this culture for environmental conditions and agricultural cultivation techniques.

Temperature conditions

Persimmons require a lot of heat and sun. Therefore, before deciding in what conditions to grow a crop, be sure to use the reference books to find the values ​​of active temperatures and the duration of solar radiation (sunny days during the growing season) in your area. They should be at least + 3000 ° С and 2000 hours per year, respectively. At these temperatures, persimmons can be grown outdoors.

At the nearest station, familiarize yourself with the climatic characteristics of the area of ​​residence: the number of sunny days, precipitation, the temperature threshold for summer and winter temperatures and other indicators. Keep in mind that persimmons are wind-resistant. See if the indicators fit into the optimal for growing persimmons. With other indicators - you can grow a crop in greenhouses with year-round heating and lighting, in greenhouses or at home.

During the growing season, persimmon develops well at temperatures of +25 .. + 28-30 ° C. Loves sunny weather, but no dry air. On such days, the tree needs to be sprayed with clean water to create a humid microclimate (except for the flowering period).

In winter, the root system can withstand frosts down to -6 ..- 8 ° C. Frost-resistant varieties can withstand air temperatures within -16 ..- 18 ° С. With a further decrease (-19 ..- 20 ° С), one-year and partly two-year growth is frozen over. Some zoned frost-resistant varieties can withstand temperatures of -25 ..- 27 ° C, but at the same time frostbite of the crown constantly occurs.

It should be taken into account that sharp drops in temperature to –9 ° C, especially in late autumn (November), can cause frostbite of young seedlings. With such cataclysms of the climate, young seedlings must be covered in the first years.

In regions where the winter temperature does not drop below -5 ..- 8 ° C, persimmons can be grown without winter shelter. In other regions, even frost-resistant varieties need winter shelter. For shelters, you can use any covering, but breathable, material: agrofibre, reeds, spruce branches, etc.

Lighting for persimmon

Persimmons have a very long growing season, but one positive temperature is not enough for normal growth and development. You need bright lighting for a long period. Therefore, for growing in open ground, areas well-lit by the sun, closed from wind and drafts, are chosen. Some gardeners who have been dealing with persimmon for a long time recommend planting it against the wall of the house, thus creating a natural protection.

The number of sunny days with high enough temperatures is very important for this culture. With a lack of bright sunny days, the crown of persimmon becomes weakly branched, the fruits are small, crumbling early.

For example: in the Moscow region, there is not enough bright sun and summer heat for normal persimmon vegetation. In this region, it will normally develop in a partially heated greenhouse, home garden, greenhouse.

Persimmon soil requirements

The best soils for persimmon are forest chernozems (even loamy, with good drainage), soddy. Does not tolerate the culture of swampy, saline, calcareous soils. It does not grow on pebbles, and when grown on sandy soils, it requires increased amounts of humus, mature compost and other additives that increase the moisture content of the soil.

Moisture requirements

Under natural conditions, persimmon for growth and development is sufficient 900-1200 mm of precipitation per year, that is, irrigation is needed during prolonged dry weather. So, in the Krasnodar Territory, about 700 mm of precipitation falls annually, which is clearly not enough for this culture. With good irrigation, persimmon easily tolerates increased dryness of the air and reacts positively to additional shallow spraying. The soil should be moist, without stagnant water in the zone of the root system.

Young persimmon sapling

Types and varieties of persimmons for outdoor cultivation

Despite the wide variety of species that grow in natural conditions, mainly three species are used in fruit growing.

• Persimmon Caucasian, or Common persimmon (Diospyros lotus),
• Persimmon virginiana (Diospyros virginiana),
• Kaki (Diospyros kaki).

On the basis of Caucasian and Virginian, used as rootstocks, hybrid varieties of persimmon with increased frost resistance and fruits, characterized by increased weight, sweetness and lack of astringency, were obtained.

Caucasian persimmon, or common persimmon

The culture is spread mainly in China and Japan. In Russia and the CIS, Caucasian persimmon occupies significant areas in the Crimea and Transcaucasia. The height of the trees is 5-18 m, it is characterized by small fruit and tart pulp. Frost resistance is characteristic. The roots can withstand frosts -10 ... -12 ° С, and the crown -22 ..- 24 ° С. These temperatures for her are the limit of frost resistance.

There are no cultivars, it does not form overgrowths when used as stock. They are used mainly as a rootstock for oriental persimmons. Saplings on the Caucasian rootstock tolerate transplanting well, are drought-resistant, undemanding to soils.

Persimmon virginiana

The homeland of virgin persimmon is the southern part of North America. The trees are no more than twenty meters high and have fairly good frost resistance.

Persimmon virginiana - high-quality rootstock. The root system can withstand frosts down to -15 ° C, the crown - up to -35 ° C. These properties allow the grafted varieties to be promoted to colder areas. Moreover, they are not afraid of the winter thaws. Saplings develop well on heavy loam and sandy loam, waterlogged soils, but transplanting is difficult, due to the formation of weak taproots. Persimmon trees on this rootstock are less durable than on the Caucasian rootstock and form relatively low yields.

The cultivated varieties of persimmon are bred, which in America are called persimmon. In Russia, an interspecific hybrid with an oriental persimmon was bred, called the Rossiyanka and the Nikitsky burgundy variety, which, respectively, have frost resistance of -25 and -30 ° C. The Russian woman brings her first harvest in 2 years. Grows well in Transcarpathia. Of the new varieties, the Belogorye variety is distinguished by its high frost resistance.

Kaki

Eastern persimmon is also called Japanese. Deciduous trees with a loose crown and fast growth. In Russia, persimmon grows in the Krasnodar Territory, Sochi, Sukhumi.

Currently, on the basis of oriental persimmon, more than 1000 varieties and hybrids with different taste and economic qualities have been bred. Varieties of this type are intended mainly for garden plantings. The culture forms large, juicy, very sweet fruits, the shape of which varies from round to elongated-round, and the color - from yellow-orange to dark red. Eastern persimmon trees are single- and dioecious. The flowers are female, single, large, yellowish-white with fused corolla petals. Male flowers are much smaller. Bisexual flowers are usually located in groups of 2-4 flowers, forming colonies on the growths of the current year. The eastern persimmon blooms in the second half of May - early June, pollinated by bumblebees and bees.

The vast majority of eastern persimmon varieties tolerate frosts down to -15 ° С. Oriental persimmons are grown in all regions where climatic conditions are optimal for the crop (see Persimmon requirements for growing conditions).

Young persimmon tree with fruits

Persimmon varieties

Persimmon varieties with sweet pulp

Persimmon varieties with sweet pulp that do not change color during ripening and storage include: Giro, Krymchanka 55, Nakhodka, Kiara, Meotse saukune, Mishirazu, Fuyu, Twentieth century, Korolek, Crimean, Excellent, Triumph, Sharon, Zolotistaya, Nadezhda , Tsyganochka, Urozhainaya, Vostochnaya, Khianume, Ukrainka, Zorya, Zorka, Chocolate and others. The fruits acquire a sweet taste of the pulp after the appearance of a characteristic varietal color on them, even if the pulp itself is still firm.

Persimmon varieties with tart pulp

Large-fruited varieties of Tanenasha and Khachia were obtained from the Virginian Russian woman. Sidles with brownish flesh, medium-sized, Dawn-187 with characteristic flattened fruits. They remain tart until biological maturation and acquire sweetness after full biological maturation and maturation or light freezing. In addition to the above, these include the varieties Gosho, Soyo, Tsuru, Kostata, Adreula, Emon, Aizu-Mishirazu, Dream, Novelty, Nikitskaya burgundy, Meader, John Rick, Weber, Autumn souvenir, Century, Varying, Golden autumn, Izobilnaya, Yalta , Friendship, Zhuravlenok, Adjara.

Persimmon varieties with increased frost resistance

Persimmon varieties with increased frost resistance, the most common among gardeners of Crimea and southern regions, some areas of the middle zone, where persimmons can be grown in open ground without shelter and with shelter, include Rossiyanka, Goverla Mountain and Roman-Kosh Mountain, Vostochnaya, Virginskaya, Kavkazskaya , Meader, Korolek, Nikitskaya burgundy, Golden, Autumn souvenir, Nakhodka, Dawn, Crimean woman, Nikitskaya burgundy, Southern beauty, Golden autumn. They are able to endure short-term frosts down to -20 ..- 30 ° С.

Persimmon varieties by ripening dates

In summer cottages, it is best to grow early varieties of persimmons, large and medium-sized.

• Ultra-early: Ukrainka, Izobilnaya, Yankin-Tsuru. The fruits are ready for harvesting in late August - early September.
• Early: Sputnik, Hyakume, Chocolate, Star, Golden, Southern Beauty. The fruits are harvested in the 2nd - 3rd decade of September.
• Mediums: Yuzhnoberezhnaya, Batumi II, Tempting, Zarya, Dawn, Khachia, Autumn Souvenir, Dream, Zhuravlenok, Kuro-Kuma, Gailey, Pollinator-48. The fruits are harvested in October.

The persimmon varieties listed above are annually replenished with more modern, with increased economic properties. But one must remember: the older the variety, the more resistant it is to frost, drought, fog and other climatic disasters. Therefore, for growing in the country, it is better to purchase old proven varieties.

Virginia persimmon seedling

Promising persimmon varieties

Of the above varieties, a group of the most promising for summer cottage cultivation can be distinguished: Golden, Autumn Souvenir, Nakhodka, Zorka, Krymchanka, Yuzhnaya Krasavitsa, Rossiyanka, Nikitsky Burgundy, Pollinator-48, Tempting, Dream, Zvezdochka, Golden Autumn.

When choosing persimmon varieties for cultivation in the country, be sure to familiarize yourself with the zoned local varieties in advance. Write down their names and descriptions in your garden diary.

Planting dates for persimmon seedlings

In southern regions with early hot spring and bright drying sun, persimmon seedlings are recommended to be planted in autumn. A long warm time will allow the young tree to take root and adapt to the new environment, and in the spring, early regeneration of their root system will begin. In cooler regions, persimmon seedlings are planted in spring. In this case, planting in a sufficiently warm soil (+ 14-15 ° С) will promote better development of the root system, and a moderately warm climate (+18 .. + 20-22 ° С) will ensure the development of the upper part of the plants.

Persimmon seedlings for autumn planting are purchased no earlier than the third decade of October - the first decade of November in specialized stores or firms. By this time, the wood of the seedling has time to ripen. A seedling with mature wood has a brownish bark.Persimmon seedlings with greenish bark are not worth buying. They will not survive the winter frosts and will die. After the autumn planting, the seedlings need to be sheltered from frost and protected from rodents. The frost resistance of the culture increases with age. Therefore, in the first 3-4 years, even frost-resistant varieties need shelters.

For spring planting, persimmon seedlings bought in the fall are dropped in and in the spring in the third decade of March - the first half of April they are planted in a permanent place. It is safer to determine the planting time by the temperature of the soil in the root layer.

Better to buy 2-3 seedlings, one of which should be a pollinator (male variety). You can pick up self-fertile or female varieties, get by with 2 seedlings with a lack of free space suitable for planting persimmons. Please note that self-fertile female and some male varieties bear fruit in persimmons. With cross-pollination, large-fruited increases and fewer fruits fall off in the process of development and ripening.

Rodent-proof persimmon seedling

Rules for planting persimmons in the open field.

In general, planting and caring for persimmons is carried out in the same way as for apple trees and peaches. Planting pits are prepared in advance, of usual sizes. Usually, its dimensions are 40-60x40 - 60x40-60 cm. The distance between plantings, depending on the future variety, is at least 4-5-6 m. The final volume of the planting pit is prepared before planting, according to the size of the root system of the seedling. The depth depends on the type of soil. If it is necessary to install drainage or introduce a large amount of humus, sand, the depth of the pit is increased to 60-80 cm.At the bottom, drainage is formed from rubble, broken brick, pebbles 15-20 cm high, especially if the groundwater is close to the surface or the soil is clayey and passes water slowly.

A day before planting, the root system of the persimmon seedling is slightly shortened and the central conductor is cut to 80-90 cm. The root is soaked in a solution of root or zircon, another similar preparation. The soil from the pit is mixed with 1 - 2 buckets of humus or mature compost. Add a glass of nitroammofoska, you can kemira. The mixture is thoroughly mixed and part of the slide is transferred to the pit. In the center, a support is installed, preferably a wooden one, to which the planted seedling is then tied up with a soft rope through the eight.

A persimmon seedling is placed in the center of a soil mound in a hole. Spread the root along the sides of the hill and cover it with soil mixture to the middle. Lightly crush with your hands and pour out a bucket of water warmed in the sun. Fill up all the remaining soil.

At the final planting, the root collar should be at the level of the soil, which means that the grafting will then be higher. Around the planted persimmon tree, a mound (side) with a height of 5-6 cm, with a diameter of about 1 m, is poured so that water does not spread over the soil surface, but soaks the soil in the planting pit. Pour 3-4 buckets of water. After absorbing water, the soil around the seedling is mulched. Weeds are removed during the growing season. The soil around the seedling should be constantly loose and mulched.

Persimmon tree oriental age 7 years

Outdoor persimmon care

The formation of the crown of persimmon begins the next year after planting. The height of the trunk is left 50-60 cm. The crown is formed according to a sparse-tiered system or in the shape of a bowl, which makes it possible to reduce the height of the tree: this is very important for winter shelter (if necessary) and harvesting.

Watering

Persimmons are usually grown in warm, which means, as a rule, arid regions. Persimmon is considered an irrigated crop. In the first year, watering is carried out 3 times a month (without flooding). With age, their number is reduced to 3 - 4 times during the growing season, including the autumn moisture recharge before the winter shelter. If the year is rich in rains, do not water the persimmon.

Fertilizing persimmons

The best fertilizer for persimmons is organic. Depending on age, they are brought under one tree in the spring from 0.5 to 2 - 3 buckets of humus once every 3-4 years.Of the mineral fertilizers, a year later, a complete mineral fertilizer is applied under the tree in the spring (nitrophoska, kemira, others). Before flowering, adding 1-2 glasses of ash gives a good effect. Fertilizers are applied in special grooves around the crown or in dug holes, closed and watered. Good results in saturating the soil with the necessary nutrients are provided by podwinter sowing of green manure. In the spring, trying not to injure the roots, they are finely embedded in the soil.

Protection of persimmons from pests and diseases

Most often, persimmon is affected by scab. For protection, the crown is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid during the phases of leaf blooming, budding and mass formation of ovaries. Other diseases include gray rot, causing massive shedding of ovaries, and powdery mildew. Under unfavorable climatic conditions, cracks appear on the branches, bark of boles, shoots, through which infection with bacterial cancer occurs, which leads to the formation of ulcers and death of plants.

Of other fungal diseases, the aboveground mass of persimmon is affected by black spot of leaves and shoots, fusarium. Persimmon is susceptible to bacterial burns. A neglected disease even affects the roots of the plant. It is advisable in a small garden to use biological products to protect against diseases (phytosporin, mucosan, gaupsin, trichodermin, glyocladin, planriz, etc.) that do not harm human and animal health. In all cases, biological products should be used only in accordance with the recommendations. An independent change in the concentration of solutions will not give the expected effect.

Of the pests of persimmons, a soft false shield is common, an odorous woodworm, a seaside mealybug. With a high number, pests colonize the entire tree, severely damage the generative organs and young shoots. Over time, they cause complete abscission of leaves, ovaries, create conditions for secondary infection with fungal ("rabble"), which, covering the organs of the plant with a dense black film, impede the passage of metabolic processes. A tree in an advanced form of infection can die.

It is better to fight pests, as well as diseases, when growing persimmons in dachas with biological products, using bicol, boverin, aktofit, acarin. The last 2 biological products are effective against the worm, but only when processed in warm weather (+18 .. + 28 ° C). If the tree is severely affected by the worm, then, in the bud phase and no later than 30-40 days before harvesting, you can use a chemical preparation (which is undesirable in the country) Confidor-extra for spraying. According to gardeners, it effectively destroys worms.

From biological products with double action against pests on persimmons, you can use gaupsin, which destroys not only fungal diseases, but also a number of pests.

Harvesting and storage of persimmons

The fruits are harvested by hand, very carefully so as not to injure the delicate peel. The beginning of the collection is determined by the color of the fruit characteristic of the variety. The crops are stored in baskets and boxes. To prolong the freshness of persimmons, they are stored at a temperature of 0 ..- 1 ° C. Duration of storage is up to 3 months. The persimmon, soft to the touch, is ready to use and will not be astringent. The best way to store persimmons is to freeze them in refrigerated chambers. Quick freezing preserves all the quality indicators of the fruit. In this case, the fruits become sweeter, their astringency goes away. The shelf life is extended to 6 months.

Every autumn, unusual, tasty and healthy berries - Persimmon - appear on our shelves. The value of the fruit lies in the richness of vitamins and microelements accumulated under the warm summer sun, which saturates the human body while eating the berry. Why wait for the fruits to be brought to the shelves, if there is a chance to grow a full-fledged tree in 3-4 years and get the most delicious berries?

Ripe berry - Persimmon

Description

Ebenus Diospyros (Persimmon) is a species of deciduous bushes and trees, a family of dicotyledonous plants (Ebony). Persimmon is translated from the Latin language - food of the gods, divine fire, popular names - date plum, wild date. In a subtropical, tropical climate, with good care, trees live up to 350-500 years. In temperate climates, persimmon cultivation is possible, but often trees die from severe frosts, and the yield is less than in the subtropics. The most frost-resistant type of persimmon is Virginskaya down to -35 ° C.

On average, a tree reaches 8–20 meters, but there are species that reach more than 35 m. From early spring to late autumn, persimmon leaves change their color, in spring they are yellow-green, in summer they are dark green with a glossy surface, in autumn they are yellow. red, orange. Leaves are oval, simple, alternate. The leaf reaches 10 cm in length, 5-6 cm in width, they, like a berry, have useful properties and are often used by folk medicine. There are decorative, wild, cultivated types of trees and bushes.

Persimmon ovary

Begins to bloom in March - the beginning of April, have an inconspicuous appearance - beige, beige-pink, subdivided into male (on the branches formed heap of 3-6 pieces) and female (corolla shape up to 3-4 cm in diameter) inflorescences. Depending on the region, flowering ends in early - late May, forming green fruits.

Color, size, shape depend on the variety of the bush. Berries from bright orange, orange, red, to brown. Persimmon shape - round, oval, flat. Size (weight) - from 40 g to 450 g. Pollinated varieties have up to 10 seeds, non-pollinated ones have no seeds. Fruits ripen, depending on the variety, from September to November. The fruits are sweet with a tart flavor.

Varieties

Every year, breeders from different countries bring out new types of persimmon, now there are about 350 varieties of cultivated, wild-growing shrubs and trees. The following species are mainly cultivated:

1. East - region of origin Asia. Trees, bushes are best acclimatized in other areas. With the help of this species, a lot of varieties have been obtained by Soviet and Russian breeders.
2. Caucasian - the region of origin of the Caucasus. The trees are strong, up to 25-30 meters high. Berries have a specific flavor, dark color.
3. Virginia is a region of origin North America. Trees up to 20 m high are most adapted to frosts down to -35 degrees.

Persimmon varieties are divided into several groups:

1. Pollination:
   • pollinated (Hyakume, Zenjiaru);
   • intermediate (Costata);
   • non-pollinated (Sidles, Tamopan).
2. By ripening time:
   • ultra early (Yankin-Tsuru, Ukrainka);
   • early (Chocolate, Southern Beauty, Zvezdochka);
   • medium (Dawn, South Coast, Dream, Kuro-Kuma);
   • late (Nakhodka, Tanenashi, Zvezdochka, Aizu-Mishirazu).
3. By taste:
   • with a tart aftertaste (Korolek, Sharon, Meotse saukune, Dawn, Triumph, Mishirazu, Tsyganochka, Chocolate);
   • with a sweet aftertaste without astringency (Nikitskaya burgundy, Gosho, Yalta, Kostata, Dream, Friendship, Autumn souvenir).

Domestic breeders in the Crimea in the Nikitsky Botanical Gardens have bred varieties by crossing different species, which have a distinctive feature - resistance to frost up to -25-28 degrees: Russian woman, Nikitskaya burgundy, Gora Goverla, Gora Roman-Kosh and others.

Reproduction

Soil (ground)

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For persimmons, the most suitable soil is black soil, loamy, but it must be well-drained, with an admixture of sand. Then the plant will bear fruit well and grow quickly. In soils where water is strongly stagnant, as well as those that contain a large amount of mineral salts, clay, gray soils are not suitable for its cultivation. In such places, the plant begins to ache, bear fruit poorly.

Frost resistance. Temperature and illumination

The most frost-resistant persimmon variety is Virginsky, which can withstand temperatures up to - 32–35 ° C, Vostochny up to -22–24 ° C, Caucasian up to -17–20 ° C.

Persimmon is unpretentious to temperature extremes (spring and autumn frosts), sometimes you can see berries under a layer of snow, under which young branches retain their vital activity. Branches of seedlings 1–5 years of age are most susceptible to the first frost. For persimmons, choose a place that is sunny or with a little shade during daylight hours, as well as a space without drafts. Planting is carried out from the southern or southeastern side of the infield.

Persimmon is whimsical to the neighborhood of other plants, therefore, other crops should not be planted under it or at a close distance from it. A large, spacious area from 20 to 70 square meters fits a persimmon. m.

Indoor conditions

Growing a tree at home is simpler and cheaper than buying a seedling. But they follow several rules, stages of growing:

1. the stone must be from ripe local berries;
2. the seed is pulled out of the berry, washed and dried at room temperature;
3. the bone is soaked in a weak solution of manganese (fungicide) for 20-30 minutes for disinfection and dried;
4. sharpen the sharp, hard edges of the bone a little with a nail file and place in the refrigerator for 1-2 months (stratification) to awaken the sprouts;
5. remove the seed from the refrigerator, let it warm up to room temperature for a day;
6. the next day, wrap the seed with gauze or a thin cloth, soak it in warm water with a growth stimulating solution. Soak for 3 days;
7. prepare a pot with well-fertilized soil. Add sand, sawdust, wood ash, peat, expanded clay to black soil (to the bottom and a layer in the middle of the pot);
8. the bone is laid horizontally in a pot, sprinkled with soil mixture by 2-3 cm;
9. spray the ground with warm water from a spray bottle;
10. cover the pot with glass or plastic, creating the effect of a greenhouse;
11. as necessary, water the persimmon and air it so that the process of bone decay does not start;
12. the first shoots will appear within a month. Open the pot when the first 2 leaves grow;
13. as soon as the sprout reaches 45-50 cm, it is transplanted into a larger pot for the development of the root system;
14. the soil, the pot is changed as the plant grows 2-4 times a year;
15. In the spring - autumn period, the plant is taken out into the fresh air for hardening. If the weather is damp, cold or frost is expected, then the plant is brought into the room at night;
16. 1-2 times a month are watered with fertilizers;
17. when the sprout reaches 70–80 cm, pinch the top to form lateral branches;
18. at a plant height of 1.2 m - 1.5 m, they are planted in open ground.

The most suitable varieties of persimmons for growing in an apartment and do not require transplanting into open ground: Zenjiaru, Hyakume. During the growth of the shoots, decorative pruning of the tree is carried out to form a beautiful, compact crown.

Ripening berries

Autumn and spring planting in open ground

The most favorable planting for persimmon seedlings is springtime, when the soil temperature warmed up to 15-17 ° C. Over the summer, the plant will have time to get stronger, successfully overwinter. Saplings bought in professional nurseries take root better than those grown from seed.

Ripe berry

A few tips for choosing a persimmon seedling:

1. buy seedlings in professional nurseries with a guarantee of the desired variety and grafted to local conditions;
2. examine the seedling from leaves to roots for damage, rot, diseases and pests;
3. carefully inspect the place where it was grown, if possible;
4. for a temperate climate, seedlings of early varieties are purchased;
5. the roots should be with an earthen lump, and not bare;
6. the trunk of the tree is strong;
7. it is better to plant persimmon on the day of purchase or the next day, but not later.

Having chosen a landing site (preferably on a hill, near buildings that will close it from the wind and blizzards), they dig a hole depending on the size of the root, but so that there is 30–40 cm of free space around it. Drainage with sand and broken stone or expanded clay is laid at the bottom of the pit, sprinkled with black soil mixed with manure, and then a seedling is planted, preferably in cloudy weather or after sunset. They dig in the soil, press down a little. Watered with warm water with fertilizers. For the first time, the tree needs a back up so that it does not tilt. It is important to dig in the vaccination site when planting. In the first 2-3 years, a young tree is covered for the winter with mulch, spruce branches or dry grass.

Autumn planting is carried out in September for regions with a temperate climate, in the subtropics and tropics, October - November. The main thing is to plant it before the onset of the first frost, be sure to cover it for the winter. Persimmon begins to bear fruit for 2-3 years, subject to the rules of care.

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Persimmon under the snow

Diseases and pests

In good conditions, persimmons rarely get sick, acquire pests. Often there are trees affected by diseases, bushes flooded with melt or groundwater:

1. powdery mildew - looks like a white bloom on the leaves;
2. root rot - the leaves turn pale flowers or the ovary crumbles, which means that the roots of the tree rot;
3. gray rot - appears on leaves, flowers, branches, berries;
4. bacteriosis - the leaves begin to dry and fall off, then it affects the bark, leaving the tree naked;
5. bacterial cancer - the bark of the tree becomes brown in the affected areas, the leaves turn yellow due to lack of nutrients, dry and fall off;
6. fusarium - the leaves turn yellow and wither, starting from the bottom, the trunk turns black, the bark falls off and the tree dries up;
7. black spot - looks like spots of black and burgundy color that affect the leaves, and then young shoots, the trunk;
8. Scab - affects leaves and young shoots in the form of black spots.

Diseases of Persimmon

For treatment are used:

1. weak manganese solution;
2. fungicide;
3. Bordeaux mixture;
4. transplanting a tree to a new place with treated soil;
5. other special means.

It is important in the spring and during the flowering period with special preparations (Topaz, Fitosporin, Horus, Copper sulfate, Aktofit) to take preventive measures against diseases and pests.

Pests affect the bark, young shoots, persimmon leaves, from which the yield level decreases, and lead to the death of the tree:

1. mite;
2. shield (soft false shield);
3. fruit fly;
4. larvae of beetle or beetle;
5. worms (hairy lice);
6. butterfly - fragrant woodworm;

To eliminate pests, special solutions are used, mixtures: guapsin, acorin, drug emulsion 30, zolon, boverin, BI-58, bicol.

Care

Watering

In regions with a dry, hot climate, where there is little rainfall, additional watering is carried out. Persimmon is hard to tolerate overdried and flooded soils, in such conditions the seedling will quickly die. In hot weather, 2-3 times a month, the tree is watered abundantly in the evening.

Watering seedlings grown from seed at home is carried out more often than for specimens purchased in nurseries.

Trimming and shaping. Decorativeness

To increase the yield and growth of a strong, healthy tree, it is important to carry out formative pruning of branches in 1-2 years. First of all, crooked, dry, damaged branches are removed, leaving strong, healthy 4-5 branches on the trunk, which will further form the skeleton of the tree. The next year, the main branches are cut so that their length does not exceed 1.2–1.5 m. Lateral branches, excess young shoots are cut with shears. When pruning branches, do not forget about the appearance of the tree and decorativeness.

Fertilizer

Top dressing of seedlings and adult trees is carried out 2-3 times. For the first time in the spring, when young shoots are formed, biofertilizers or a mineral complex for growth are introduced.The second time during flowering, phosphorus-potassium dressing is applied. For the third time in the fall, before freezing, compost, manure or preparations containing nitrogen.

Harvest

Depending on the variety and region of growth, the harvest is harvested from September to December. The berries are removed carefully so as not to break the branches, substituting a ladder. It is better for the fruits to ripen on the branches of a tree or to use the ripening method at home, but then the fruits will lose their taste and will be more tart.

Harvesting

The harvested crop is stored in wooden boxes with sawdust, pouring each row at a temperature of + 1 ° C. In a dark room with an air humidity of 70–80%, no more.

The berries are processed by drying, freezing, boiling jam, compote or jam.

Growing persimmons requires patience, time, which will then delight the gardener with useful and unusually tasty berries. With good care and a properly selected variety of persimmons, a crop of up to 200 kg per tree per season is obtained.

Bright orange fruits, which appear on the shelves only in late autumn and winter, cannot be seen in the gardens of the middle lane. How does persimmon grow? Where is the homeland of this plant, and what are the features of its cultivation?

The habitat, native to persimmons, is the subtropics and tropical regions of Asia. The extensive genus of deciduous trees belonging to the Ebony family includes more than seven hundred species that are distributed from China and the Caucasus to Malaysia.

Where does persimmon grow?

Man has long appreciated the taste of ripe persimmon, and today various varieties of the plant are cultivated all over the world, where climatic conditions permit. Thanks to selection and the emergence of frost-resistant seedlings, persimmon has significantly expanded its natural range. A crop with a long growing season has found a place in gardens in southern Europe, the North American continent, Japan and Australia.

In Russian shops, sweet fruits most often come from Turkey, Israel, the countries of the Caucasus and the North Caucasus, where from time immemorial cultivated trees of a local, rather unpretentious type have been grown.

Since the beginning of the last century, persimmon cultivation has been established in the Crimea. A valuable fruit crop plantation was established in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden. Here, serious scientific work was begun on the development of new winter-hardy varieties adapted for Russian conditions.

Among the achievements of Crimean breeders are the varieties Rossiyanka and Nikitskaya Bordovaya, which successfully bear fruit on the peninsula and tolerate cold temperatures down to –25 ° C without any significant losses. These varieties have made it possible to grow persimmons in Ukraine.

What does a persimmon tree, flowers and leaves look like

The plants that make up the Persimmon genus are fairly large long-lived trees that, in favorable conditions, reach a height of 8 meters and an age of 500 years. Cultivated varieties retain the characteristics of their wild-growing ancestors. The trees have a wide spreading crown with long drooping branches.

The peculiarity of the culture is the presence of male and female plants, which outwardly differ in the shape and nature of the flowers. Therefore, to increase yields, several pollinators are planted near the plantation with fruit trees. You can find out how persimmon blooms from the photo. Female, single flowers are distinguished by wide sepals and a corolla shape up to 2–3 cm in diameter.

Male flowers sit on shoots in a heap, sometimes in small inflorescences of 2–5 pieces. They have a narrower, goblet-like shape and yellowish-white petals. In different regions, persimmon bloom can begin from March to May.

Simple leaves up to 7 cm long sitting alternately on shoots can be recognized:

• oval-heart-shaped;
• by a light green color, which becomes darker as it grows;
• smooth surface with a well-visible mesh of veins.

In autumn, the trees are colored yellow and red.At the same time, falling leaves have practically no effect on how the persimmon tree looks, because all the branches are decorated with orange, yellow and almost red fruits.

Features of persimmon fruits

For those who are interested in how persimmon grows, it will be useful to know a little information about its fruits. In place of female flowers, at the end of flowering, a green dense ovary is formed, inside which there can be up to 10 large elongated seeds. As they ripen, the fruits take on an oval, pointed or rounded heart-shaped shape. There are varieties with flattened berries.

Depending on the variety and species, the color of ripe persimmons also changes, ranging from light yellow to almost brown. Ripening begins in September and lasts until December, so persimmons, when grown in Crimea, North Ossetia and Ukraine, sometimes find themselves under the snow.

Most often, Eastern, Caucasian and American persimmons are grown in the gardens. Varieties with sweet, non-astringent fruits are especially popular with gardeners and consumers.

Anyone who loves the sweet taste of persimmons knows that fruits fall into two categories.

1. The first ones are tasty even when not too ripe. They have soft, without pronounced fibers, the flesh, which becomes jelly-like in ripe fruits.
2. In the second category, persimmon fruits become edible only after falling under the first frost or artificial freezing. The pulp of these varieties is coarser, it contains more fiber.

Both varieties have their pros and cons. Persimmon with soft delicious fruits does not tolerate long storage and transportation. The slightest damage to the skin threatens to spoil soon. Hard, astringent fruits can be stored for up to 30-40 days, and then, after exposure to freezing temperatures, enjoy a healthy treat.

How persimmon grows: requirements for open ground

In nature, persimmon grows in warm regions with a long warm period of the year. Modern frost-resistant varieties made it possible to move the northern border of comfortable growth to the southern regions of Russia. How to grow persimmon on your garden plot?

Observing how persimmon grows in Crimea, on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus and Ukraine, in North Ossetia, you can see that trees in open ground prefer well-lit areas with protection from wind and flooding in the spring-autumn periods.

The culture is undemanding to the type and composition of the soil, while an excess of organic matter can react by dropping the already formed ovary. The main thing is that a powerful root system receives enough air and moisture.

If persimmons find themselves in arid conditions, the quality of the crop deteriorates, and a prolonged moisture deficit causes the ovary and foliage to fall off.

In regions where persimmon grows in natural conditions, trees bloom already in the warm season, and the fruits have time to fill up and practically ripen before severe frosts. To the north, persimmon needs protection from freezing and the danger of spring decay. This applies to both fruit-bearing trees and plants grown for decorative purposes.

So that harvesting from a tree 6-10 meters high does not turn into a risky adventure, the crown of persimmons begins to form from the first years after planting. In addition to limiting growth, pruning of young, too thin branches is carried out, which often cannot withstand the severity of the fruits and are the first to freeze in cold winters.

How to grow persimmons yourself?

It is quite simple to become the owner of your own fruit-bearing tree on the site. To do this, you should purchase a frost-resistant persimmon seedling, plant it and take care of it until bright ripe fruits appear.

Persimmons can be propagated by growing a ripe fruit from the seed. Unfortunately, seedlings do not retain varietal properties, therefore, grafting will be required for abundant fruiting and obtaining sweet berries of the plant.

The best stock is the Caucasian persimmon, which is characterized by increased winter hardiness, undemanding soil and endurance. The tree has a powerful fibrous root, thanks to which the plant can easily transfer transfer to a larger pot. In the spring, when the bole reaches a thickness of 1 cm, a cultivar of any kind can be grafted onto a strong seedling. On a grown tree, it is convenient to make an additional inoculation of a pollinator.

In most of Russia and in the Moscow region, growing persimmons in the open field is problematic. A short summer is not enough for the fruits to have time to set and ripen, during and after flowering there is a high risk of frost, and in winter frosts are too strong even for resistant Crimean varieties. Therefore, it is better to grow persimmons in a pot culture. In this case, it is easy to care for a tree up to one and a half meters high and, with good care, even get a good harvest.

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