Chrysanthemums undersized planting and care in the open field

All the secrets of spherical chrysanthemum, its cultivation and care will not take much time and effort. These wonderful plants bloom early, they are unpretentious and give your garden an unusual look.

Chrysanthemum globular or Chrysanthemum Multiflora is a relatively recently bred hybrid. Its height is about 50 cm and amazes observers with its bizarre shape. The fact is that the inflorescences take the shape of a regular ball and almost do not require pruning. The foliage is not visible at all, which means that wonderful flower balls will appear in your garden. In addition, they are unpretentious in care and can please the eye for 3 months: from August to October.

Varieties of chrysanthemums

There are several types of plants. Due to the fact that there are several varieties in growth and flowering periods, they remain so popular. Separate undersized, medium-sized and tall chrysanthemums. The first ones reach about 20-30 cm in height, the second 30-40, and the last 60-70 cm. The most common are medium-sized plants because of their moderate flowering and the ability to plant in completely different places. But undersized, you can decorate a garden, flower beds, a loggia, rooms and any room.

Chrysanthemums Multiflora are also distinguished by the flowering period. Early flowering blooms in August, mid-blooming in September, and late blooming chrysanthemums in late September and October. With the right selection of various species, you can provide yourself with a blooming flower bed all the time from summer to the onset of cold weather.

Spherical chrysanthemums

Growing chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum cultivation can take place both in pots and in the open field. If you decide to plant this plant, then it is worth remembering several important features of multiflora chrysanthemum when planting and caring for:

1. First of all, lighting is important. If the shrub is planted in a sunny area, it can prevent late and short-term flowering, as well as protect against the growth of long shoots.
2. The soil should be mixed with compost or humus to improve its fertility. It should be light and loose. But do not overdo it - chrysanthemums can grow a lot and bloom a little.
3. Chrysanthemum Multiflora should be planted on cloudy, sunny days, in summer - early in the morning or in the evening. The dug hole is first watered with high quality, then drainage is placed, and then soil. It is not worth planting a chrysanthemum too deep, since its root system is superficial, a fossa of about 40 cm will be sufficient.
4. After planting, the plant is pinched. The growth point is removed from him. The second pinching is done after 20 days, the shoot and a couple of nodes are removed.Some argue that the shape of the ball in the plant is genetically inherent, so pinching needs to be done only once, and the chrysanthemum will independently take the desired shape. Here each gardener decides on his own, but it is worth remembering that additional pinching does not harm the plant. In the early days, chrysanthemum globular needs shelter from the sun. Non-woven fabrics are used that will not touch the leaves of the plant.

Chrysanthemum care

In addition to pinching and a little shading, chrysanthemums need additional care. Flowers are not very whimsical and finicky, but if you take care of them correctly, you can improve the flowering period.

The soil needs fertilization. This is best done in the spring, during the growing season. Humus or mullein work well. But during the formation of buds, superphosphate is useful in a proportion of 50 g per 1 m². This is necessary for a longer and stronger flowering.

Chrysanthemum multicolor

It is necessary to water Multiflora often, as it loves moisture very much. On dry days, keep the ground moist and dry. For watering, it is better to use standing or rainwater with a few drops of ammonia for softness.

Most chrysanthemums can suffer from caterpillars. Therefore, pay attention to the appropriate chemicals and spray periodically to avoid caterpillar infestation.

If you find blackened leaves or bare stems on the bush, then this means that the soil of the plant is excessively moist, and the bush itself has too many inflorescences. All this is a sign of powdery mildew disease. At the first detection of this disease, it is worth taking the following steps immediately:

1. Tear off damaged stems and foliage.
2. Get rid of the upper soil, where the spores of the fungus damaging the plant are located, and replace it with a new one.
3. Spray the flowers with a copper-soapy solution. To do this, you need to dilute 10 g of copper sulfate in 250 ml of water and add to 10 liters of warm water, where you diluted 100 g of soap in advance. This solution is enough for 5-6 sprays with a break of 7 days.

The plant can get burned if there are high temperatures outside for a long time. You can recognize it if you notice yellowish or brown leaves that have begun to dry out. Such a sheet should be removed immediately. To protect chrysanthemum from root rot, Fitosporin should be added to the water for irrigation. Watering with such water can be used for prophylaxis or courses.

Chrysanthemum storage in winter

If you have spherical chrysanthemums, then how to preserve them in winter is the only thing that requires increased attention and strength. If many varieties of chrysanthemums can easily overwinter in open soil, Microflora is not capable of this. It can endure the winter only in a warm southern climate, where the temperature drops slightly below 0. In most regions of Russia, they need to be dug out in the fall before the onset of severe frosts. And in order for them to stand and please the eye longer, they need to be covered with polyethylene in the evening, especially if low temperatures are expected at night.

Digging out chrysanthemums should be started before it gets colder, when the upper part is dry, which means that the bush has retired. To do this, you first need to cut off its stems, and place the roots in a box with earth, sawdust or sand. Such boxes are stored in dark places with a recommended temperature of -3 to +5 C. Cellars are suitable, but if they are not available, then the space in refrigerators for vegetables will do. The ground should not be too wet or dry. At the end of April, the plant wakes up when it is exposed to the sun and warmth without any shelter. And if the soil warms up, then you can safely plant it again.

Even if the plants grow in a room and are cultivated indoors, they also need extra winter care. For chrysanthemums, the overdried air of apartments will be destructive, so they also need to be cut off and placed in the basement.But make sure that it is free of fungi and mold. Check the ventilation and air ducts in advance, and if there are traces of fungus on the floor or any surface, they need to be removed, and this place should be rinsed with a solution of copper sulfate or already used machine oil to prevent the death of flowers.

Plant propagation

The best way to reproduce spherical chrysanthemums is reproduction by dividing the rhizomes, because they do not retain varietal characteristics when planted with seeds. A few years later, the plant has dense shoots and stops developing, which means it loses its decorative effect. This means it's time to update it. The right time for this is spring, when the bush is ready to plant. To do this, you need to divide the appeared leaves into several identical parts. Sprinkle the cut area immediately with ash so as not to get infected with the chrysanthemum.

And if you need several shoots at once, then cuttings are suitable for this. Before the plant begins to bloom, it is necessary to cut off the densest branches and lower them into settled water or wet sand. After a few days, these cuttings form new roots and can be transplanted into fertile soil. Thus, Multiflora also reproduces perfectly. It can be replanted in summer and early fall. It is only important to give it time to take root in the soil before the first temperature drops. Or immediately prepare plants in the house in special flowerpots or pots.

Benefits of the globular chrysanthemum

Multiflora is a favorite plant of many gardeners for many reasons. It is used in many areas of gardening and landscape design due to its relative ease of care and unpretentiousness. But besides, they are very easy to combine with various colors and look advantageous in almost any flower bed. Still, it is worth remembering that tall chrysanthemums will look better with neighbors of the same size, and undersized ones with smaller plants. But every flower bed is a place for experimentation! Confident gardeners can try planting chrysanthemum lines one after the other, bringing smaller species forward, or experimenting with shades to create gradients.

Garden decoration

Multiflora with evergreen trees looks good. The rounded ball, as it were, smooths out the forms of thorny plants, gives a unique liveliness and makes the view more interesting.

Low-growing chrysanthemums can be used to delineate the boundaries of a specific area, beds, roads or curbs. But as for the color of plants, which is about 4000, then imagination and the desire to transform the site come into battle. Compositions of bright green grass and white or yellow shades will be beneficial. Do not be afraid of the neighborhood and different types of flowers - bright chrysanthemums will go well with any of the planted plants.

And in the autumn period you will be delighted with the Multiflora of late blooming of saturated scarlet, pink flowers. When most of the species have already faded and are about to overwinter, the riot of colors of such chrysanthemums will not go unnoticed.

If you use them for flowering on the balcony, as a home flower, then perhaps not every bush will bloom so vigorously due to the small space allotted to it.

As you can see, caring for chrysanthemums is not such a costly and complicated business. One has only to adhere to the main rules and do not forget some of the nuances - and your garden or balcony will be provided with a beautiful and long flowering of a delightful flower.

Ball-shaped chrysanthemums were bred quite recently for growing in gardens, and in a short time they managed to gain great popularity. These flowers are distinguished by their exceptional decorativeness and, at the same time, are unpretentious in their care. The flower feels great outdoors and does not cause much trouble with planting.

Varieties and varieties

Recently, spherical chrysanthemums have enjoyed unprecedented popularity.And the number of varieties reaches four thousand hybrids of all kinds of colors, including blue and green shades. Only viewing numerous photos will help you decide on the choice of a variety. Low bushes of chrysanthemums are densely dotted with flowers, which gives them a special charm. These plants bloom from August to the very frost.

The bushes of such a chrysanthemum are in the shape of a ball, densely covered with flowers.

Some of the common varieties are:

1. "Ida" is a ball-shaped bush up to 60 cm tall, dotted with small (up to 3 cm in diameter) flowers. Blooms from September.
2. "Knop" - is distinguished by abundant flowering. A short bush (30-35 cm) during flowering is completely covered with yellow flowers, the number of which reaches 160 flowers at a time.
3. Multiflora is the most widespread variety. Small flowers have a very wide range of colors. Blooms from early September.

Planting a globular chrysanthemum

When grown from seeds, chrysanthemums lose varietal properties, therefore these flowers are planted with shoots. The place for the plant must be chosen illuminated. In the shade, the flower can stretch out and change the timing of flowering. Chrysanthemum prefers nutritious and loose soil. In addition, good drainage will also play an important role in the development of the plant.

Spherical chrysanthemums propagate by cuttings

Planting cuttings is best on days when the sun is out. If this is not possible, then for a few days after planting it is advisable to shade the plant a little, but in such a way that the shelter and the cuttings do not touch. Shoots are planted in pits up to 40 cm deep. The hole must be well watered, a drainage layer should be laid and covered with a mixture of earth and vermicompost in a ratio of 20: 1. It is not necessary to overburden the sprouts.

Advice. If you are planting a tall variety, then take care of the support.

Chrysanthemum care

Often, gardeners recommend a pinching procedure on the 20th day after planting in the ground. To do this, it is necessary to remove the upper part of the shoot, on which several nodes are located. Pinching is done in order to form a spherical shape of the bush. However, there are also such growers who argue that the form is genetically embedded in this type of chrysanthemum, and pinching can be omitted.

Water the plant frequently, but not liberally.

Watering plays a significant role in proper care. Compliance with simple rules will preserve the splendor of spherical chrysanthemums and prevent lignification of young shoots. In the hot summer, chrysanthemums need frequent but moderate watering.

Advice. Chrysanthemums will be grateful if you water them with rain or settled water.

Despite the fact that spherical chrysanthemums are a perennial culture, it is not recommended to grow it in one place for more than two years in a row. This leads to the degeneration of the variety and the modification of the shape of the bush, the shoots are stretched out and turn pale. Therefore, it is recommended to dig up the plant every two years, divide and replant. This is especially true in the southern regions, where the plant is left for wintering in the open field.

Perennial chrysanthemums should be transplanted to a new location every 2 years.

After the chrysanthemums have faded, the stems are cut to 10 cm and the chrysanthemum is prepared for wintering. In the southern regions, flowers are simply left in the ground, without additional preparations. In the middle lane, the plant can be covered for the winter with spruce branches or other covering material, if the temperature in winter does not drop too low. If the winters are harsh and, moreover, snowless, it is recommended to dig up chrysanthemums for wintering and transplant them into flowerpots, which are stored in a dark, cool place until spring.

Attention. If there is fungus or mold in the basement or cellar in which you plan to leave the chrysanthemum for the winter, this can destroy the plant. To avoid the appearance of unwanted organisms, it is necessary to equip good ventilation, and treat the damaged walls with copper sulfate or used engine oil.

You can wake up a chrysanthemum in a flowerpot as early as April, and the shelter must be removed from the garden right after the onset of heat in order to prevent the flowers from getting wet.

Fertilization and feeding

Globular chrysanthemums are among those flowers that are better undernourished than overfed. Therefore, gardeners recommend feeding a one-time feeding - in the spring at the beginning of the season. Most often, organic matter is used for this - humus or mullein. If the plant still looks weak, you can apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, but only before the buds begin to form.

Feed your chrysanthemums with organic fertilizers

Reproduction of spherical chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums can be propagated in three ways:

1. Cuttings.
2. Division of the rhizome.
3. Division of the bush.

Seed propagation, as mentioned above, is not recommended due to the fact that the plant loses all varietal characteristics.

Flowers are transplanted in the spring, when the frost is completely gone. If the plant has wintered in the ground, then during this period it must be dug up and divided. It is recommended to plant the plots in a new place, at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

When replanting a chrysanthemum, give it enough time to root before frost.

You can propagate the plant at the end of summer, but the time must be calculated so that the chrysanthemum has time to take root before winter. If you are not sure that this is possible, it is better to plant young plants in flowerpots, and leave them to winter in a room where the temperature in winter is 4-7 C. Under these conditions, the chrysanthemum is guaranteed to overwinter and in spring young bushes can be planted in the open priming.

Advice. Remember to regularly water your plants that have been planted for the winter.

Cutting is best done in February. At this time, chrysanthemums must be planted in the greenhouse and increased watering. When young shoots appear, you need to choose the strongest ones. The length of the shoots should not exceed 10 cm. Cut cuttings are planted in a prepared mixture of sand, garden soil and humus and covered with glass or foil. After 3-4 weeks, the plants are already enough to root for planting in pots, and when the last frosts have passed, the culture can be planted in open ground.

Diseases and pests

Chrysanthemum is quite resistant to various kinds of diseases, but it does not have one hundred percent immunity. Sometimes growers complain that the lower part of the plant's stem is bare, and the leaves turn black. This is the result of powdery mildew. It appears when waterlogged and too high density of the bush. In addition, large temperature differences can be the cause. In case of defeat by this disease, it is necessary to treat the plants with preparations containing copper. You can also do preventive spraying in early summer.

Collect caterpillars from chrysanthemum bushes regularly

Occasionally, you may find that all the leaves on the plant turn brown and begin to dry out. This means that the plant has been burned. It is recommended to remove such a bush from the garden and burn it.

Examine the plant regularly for caterpillars that can harm the flowers by eating the buds. In case of invasions of caterpillars, spider mites and aphids, it is necessary to treat the plant with special preparations that are sold in gardening stores.

Fitosporin can be added to the water for irrigation for prevention purposes. This will prevent the appearance of root rot.

Globular chrysanthemums in landscape design and in combination with other plants

If you look at the numerous photos of spherical chrysanthemums, you can see that their use in landscape design is quite diverse.

When choosing a place for chrysanthemums, it is necessary to take into account the size of the bush. Tall plants will be better combined with the same tall neighbors, and short ones, respectively, with small plants. But experimenting should not be avoided.You can plant a bed of chrysanthemums of different heights and shades, placing smaller varieties in the foreground.

Spherical chrysanthemums with conifers look great. Bright, rounded shapes smooth and liven up austere evergreen crops.

Spherical chrysanthemum in landscape design

Low-rise varieties of this perennial flower are widely used to create mixed borders. In addition, they can mark the boundaries of the beds and paths.

The variety of colors of spherical chrysanthemums allows you to experiment with color combinations. For example, a green lawn would be the perfect backdrop for white chrysanthemums. And yellow flowers will look spectacular against the background of emerald grass or silver leaves of noble elimus.

Spherical chrysanthemums in combination with cereals, marigolds or cosmea will look interesting.

In autumn, when most of the plants have already faded and are getting ready for the winter, bright flower beds, composed of chrysanthemums of various colors, will delight your eye with festive flowers. Plant yellows, reds, whites and pinks and enjoy a riot of colors.

Chrysanthemums of different colors look very beautiful on the same flower bed

Ball-shaped chrysanthemums are ideal for mixborders. In addition, these lush flowers can be used as a vibrant center of the lawn, along the edges of which cold-resistant plants such as snapdragon and calendula can be planted.

Sometimes gardeners grow chrysanthemums as a home potted flower. Vases with these flowers decorate terraces and balconies. But not all varieties are able to show their full potential in a confined space.

In general, caring for chrysanthemums does not burden and does not require any special skills and abilities. In order for these beautiful autumn flowers to delight you until the very frost, it is enough to follow simple rules. A little attention and patience - and your garden will be irresistible.

Globular chrysanthemum varieties: video

Types of chrysanthemum spherical: photo

It is difficult to imagine an autumn flower garden without perennial chrysanthemums. Their multicolor pleases the eye when the leaves on the trees have already flown, and there are simply no other garden flowers. Planting and caring for perennial chrysanthemums have their own nuances, but they do not present any particular difficulties.

Varieties and types

These perennial plants with flowers collected in baskets differ in both the height of the bushes and the size of the flowers and their color.

Alpine chrysanthemum.

These are low-growing bush chrysanthemum flowers. View for placement on an alpine hill, since the height of the plant does not exceed 14 cm. Its leaves are pinnately dissected gray-green, the flowers look like single baskets with a diameter of 3 to 5 cm. Flowering in the middle of summer. Hibernates without shelter.

Korean chrysanthemum.

It is this chrysanthemum that is most often grown in regions with frosty winters. Despite the fact that she comes from southern countries (Korea, Japan, China), the ups and downs of our climate withstand well, although it needs shelter.

Interesting varieties included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements:

• Altyn Ai. The bush is not higher than 60 cm. It bears yellow double flowers up to 8 cm in diameter on strong peduncles. It begins to bloom in mid-August. Blooms profusely and continuously for more than 2 months.
• Dina. The bush is about 45 cm high. Flowering begins after August 10. The flowers are white, 8 cm in diameter. The flowering is very long - up to 70 days.
• Zemfira. Blooms at the end of July. It blooms for almost 3 months with medium-sized and non-double flowers of light pink color.
• Autumn dreams. It blooms for almost 3 months with yellow semi-double flowers with a diameter of 7.5 cm.

There are also varieties that have not been tested, but no less interesting:

• Bacon. Bright red flowers on a bush up to 85 cm in height bloom in September. They are terry, have a diameter of 5 cm.
• Evening lights. Inflorescences are simple red with a yellow ring.
• Orange sunset. Terry flowers, large (up to 11 cm), orange. The bush is about 80 cm high.
• Malchish-Kibalchish.A low-growing plant, no higher than 35 cm. It blooms with simple pink flowers in late summer.
• Umka. Tall, up to 110 cm, the bush is decorated with large pompom flowers up to 8 cm in diameter, white or slightly pinkish.
• Stranger. Winter-hardy variety, blooming from the end of July. White at first, large flowers are gradually painted at the tips in a lilac color.
• Inspiration. Flowers up to 10 cm in diameter, double, have a scent. Bloom in September. Differ in winter hardiness.

A special place is occupied by border garden chrysanthemums. Their bushes do not grow higher than 30 cm and, without any formation, take a spherical shape.

The best varieties:

• Talisman - beet-crimson flowers;
• Barbara with lilac-lilac flowers.

Perennial chrysanthemums: the nuances of growing

Chrysanthemum is a southerner and few species have been able to adapt to our climate. Fine large-flowered varieties can only be grown in the south. Even the more frost-resistant Korean chrysanthemums can freeze out in snowless winters. The peculiarity of plants is that they do not like wet wintering, so drainage is mandatory for them. Another nuance - the chrysanthemum bush is short-lived and needs to be updated every 3 years.

Landing in open ground

In the open field, you need to grow varieties adapted for frosty winters. Zoned varieties and grown from seeds grow, bloom and winter best.

Soil preparation and site

The place for chrysanthemums is chosen sunny, fully illuminated throughout the day. Even a little shading will inevitably affect flowering, and plant stems will stretch out. It is necessary to provide for protection from the wind. The site should not be dry, but this flower also does not tolerate stagnant water.

The soil for chrysanthemums must meet the following requirements:

• be loose, any mechanical composition is suitable, except for heavy clay;
• it is good to let water and air pass through;
• have a slightly acidic reaction, therefore it is useful to add peat to the planting pit;
• be fertile - flowering will be scarce on lean soils.

Digging for each square. m make up to 20 kg of humus, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 30 g of urea. On heavy soils, sand is added for drainage.

You can not bring fresh manure under the chrysanthemums - the plants do not tolerate it.

How and when to plant?

Usually chrysanthemums are on sale in the fall, it is at this time that their flowering and compliance with varietal characteristics are visible. They are supplied in pots and therefore need replanting. But in the fall, it is better not to disturb the flowers, otherwise attacks in winter are inevitable. The plant gives all its strength to flowering, and there simply will not be any left for rooting. The best time to plant chrysanthemums is spring. In the southern regions it is held at the end of April or in May, while in the northern regions it will have to wait until the end of the return spring frosts.

• Plants are planted in holes 40 cm deep, on the bottom of which drainage must be placed.
• A handful of humus is added to each hole and the soil is shed well. Chrysanthemums are not buried when planting.
• The distance between plants is about 40 cm, between rows - 50 cm.
• It is necessary to provide a support for the bushes in the form of strong pegs, to which the plants are tied.

Chrysanthemum care

For plants to be healthy and bloom well, they need to be properly cared for. The first thing that is done after rooting the cuttings is to pinch the top for better tillering. After 3 weeks, the pinching is repeated, forming a spherical shape of the bush. If the cuttings are received late, this operation is not necessary, such chrysanthemums are grown in a single-barrel culture. During the growing season, regular weeding, loosening of the soil, watering and feeding will be required.

Watering the plant

Chrysanthemums are sensitive to a lack of moisture, from this the stems become woody, and you cannot get full flowering. Excess water is also harmful - it promotes root rot. Therefore, you need to strive for the golden mean and focus on weather conditions. Watering is especially needed in dry weather and during flowering.Watered with settled water and only at the root.

Top dressing and fertilization

Feeding chrysanthemums requires both mineral and organic.

1. Every 2-3 weeks they are fed with a solution of mineral fertilizer. In the first half of the growing season with a predominance of nitrogen, in the second - phosphorus and potassium at the rate of 40 g per ten-liter bucket (this amount is enough for 2 square meters. M plantings).
2. 3 times per season, feeding is carried out with mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:10. Each plant will require a liter of solution.

All dressings are combined with watering with clean water. The next day, the soil needs to be loosened.

Post-flowering care and preparation for winter

This is the time to prepare for winter. In order for the wintering to be successful, a number of activities need to be carried out.

• Plants are fed with phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
• The bushes are pruned, leaving about 15 cm of the stem.
• They sprinkle with earth brought from another part of the site so as not to expose the roots.
• Cover with a layer of dry leaves up to 40 cm thick.
• Cover the top with a material that traps snow - spruce branches or dry branches.

Transfer

Chrysanthemums are short-lived. In the third year, the middle of the bush falls out, and the flowers become smaller.

To renew the bushes and give them new life, the chrysanthemum is divided and planted in a new place.

Transplant time is spring. The bush must be carefully dug out, shaking off the ground a little. Divide the plants with a sharp knife. Each section should have kidneys and roots. Further actions are the same as when planting cuttings.

Reproduction of perennial chrysanthemum

Perennial garden chrysanthemums reproduce by dividing the bush, cuttings and sowing seeds. The latter plants will be best adapted to the climate of the growing area.

1. Seeds for seedlings are sown in early March in a mixture of the following composition bought in a store or prepared independently: garden soil, peat and humus in equal quantities.
2. Drainage is placed on the bottom of the sowing container.
3. Perennial chrysanthemum seeds are sown superficially, slightly pressing them to the ground.
4. The container is covered with a plastic bag and placed in a bright place with a temperature of 25 degrees.

Immediately after the emergence of seedlings, the bag is not removed, but they do it gradually, accustoming the plants to fresh air. When the shoots acquire two true leaves, they are dived into separate cups.

Seedling keeping conditions:

• temperature 18 degrees;
• a lot of light, if necessary - additional lighting;
• top dressing every 14 days with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.

Seedlings are planted in the ground after frost, trying to preserve the roots as much as possible.

When seed propagation, parental traits are not preserved.

For spring cuttings, you need to dig up the plant in the fall, plant it in a pot and take care of it in winter like a house flower. Cuttings are harvested from young shoots 5 cm long, removing the lower leaves. Placed in a container with sand under a glass jar. After rooting, the cuttings are grown and planted in the ground.

Plant diseases and pests

When growing garden perennial chrysanthemums, you can encounter some diseases.

Fungal diseases:

• gray rot (brown spots on the leaves, covered with a gray bloom);
• powdery mildew (white bloom);
• rust (small specks of chlorosis).

All of them are treated by treatment with copper-containing fungicides, and colloidal sulfur is also effective against rust.

Viral diseases:

• mosaic (speckled spots on the leaves);
• Aspermia (misshapen flowers and speckled leaves)
• dwarfism (small growth, not corresponding to the variety, premature flowering).

There is no cure, diseased plants are destroyed.

The main pests of chrysanthemums: nematodes, meadow bugs, aphids. In the first case, the fight against the pest is impossible. The plant is destroyed. As a preventive measure, spill the earth with a solution of phosphamide. For bedbugs and aphids, you can try the treatment with infusions of onion peel or hot pepper.If this does not help, treat the plants with insecticides.

The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums, planting and caring for these flowers in the open field is not particularly difficult, but they require compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and in autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, but to propagate a plant in the fall, check out the main points. If you do not know how to form a beautiful bush with a ball, then remember, you need a pinch and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will only need a single pinching ...

Methods and timing of reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are annual - they are grown annually from seeds, and perennial - they can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, mother plants or by dividing a bush. Chrysanthemums are planted in spring and autumn, each season has its own advantages:

1. Seeds sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow by 10 cm, they are pinched. In the fall, chrysanthemums are already blooming
2. Cuttings Is a very popular breeding method for chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting off a stalk even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in a soil consisting of sand and peat. The box covered with glass is kept in a cool place, not higher than + 15 ° C. When the roots appear, the plants are planted in separate pots and then, with the end of the frost, in the open ground. If you purchased a cuttings of the desired variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring
3. Uterus - this is the overwintered rhizome of chrysanthemum, from which shoots will go, it can be purchased and planted in early spring
4. Dividing the bush - the only way to plant chrysanthemums in autumn, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several specimens with pruning shears and planted. This procedure is supposed to be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.

Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn

Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field differ in spring and autumn - with spring planting, mother plants and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose a flowering bush and not be mistaken with its appearance.

In very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed the oak - this species unites many varieties zoned in the middle lane and the Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of cold weather and easily freeze out.

For chrysanthemums, choose a sunny, preferably elevated place. Flowers do not like stagnant moisture, therefore, the waterlogged soil is drained by adding a layer of coarse river sand to the planting hole. The soil is preferable slightly acidic or neutral, light and loose. Too dense - mixed with peat, humus or rotted compost.

Chrysanthemum plants are placed every 30-50 cm.The pit is dug shallow so that the shoots on the mother liquor or two-thirds of the cuttings are not covered with earth, when dividing the bush - this is about 40 cm.No more than 0.5 kg of humus or compost is added to the hole. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the flowers will be small, and only foliage will be lush. It is recommended to water the roots with a stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin), and then cover it with soil and compact it. After spring planting, it is advisable to cover the cuttings from the sun with a spunbond for a couple of weeks.

When planting in autumn, the chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly, this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, because of which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut and a third of the stems are left for the nutrients to go into the development of the root system.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, feeding, pruning, shelter

Chrysanthemum cannot stand moisture stagnation, but loves watering - without water, the stems become tough, the flowers become smaller. At the same time, the flower does not tolerate sprinkling, it must be watered at the root, preferably with rain or settled water. After watering, the soil is loosened to avoid crusting.

In spring, for chrysanthemums, nitrogen fertilization is necessary for rapid growth; it can be carried out 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of chrysanthemum budding, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthening of plants before wintering. In the fall, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties are tied up, as their fragile stems can break.

The onset of frost is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or foliage. The most delicate varieties are wrapped on top with a covering material and something flat is placed on top to protect it from moisture - for example, a plywood board. Some growers dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar in winter to make sure the variety is preserved.

How to create globular chrysanthemum bushes

For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field is not all that is needed and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.

Chrysanthemums after winter are pruned and pinched to get a beautiful spherical bush. There is a variety in which the bush itself grows in the form of a ball, without needing to be formed - this is chrysanthemum multiflora, a low-growing bush up to 20 cm in height - when two pairs of leaves appear on the shoot, it is pinched, and then the ball forms itself.

Multiflora can be grown not only in a flower bed, but also in a pot. But, at the end of flowering, the aerial part of the plant is cut off and sent to rest - in a dark, cool place, for the whole winter. Periodically dormant chrysanthemums are watered so that the roots do not dry out. In February, the first shoots appear, which means that the plant has woken up, and it is time to get it out of the basement. If a spherical chrysanthemum grows in a flower bed, the stems should be cut to 10 cm and covered with sawdust and non-woven fabric for the winter.

Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers, add more humus and wood ash to the hole when planting. If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil from 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is sod land.

You can also form a ball from other types of chrysanthemums, in small and medium-flowered ones, the main shoot is pinched when it reaches 10-12 cm, then the lateral shoots that have grown to the same length are cut off, they then actively branch, pinching is done until the buds appear.

In large-flowered species of chrysanthemums, stems 15 cm long are cut, in total one or two pinches are carried out no later than June, in addition, they are stepchildren - from mid-July, shoots that appear from the leaf axils are removed daily, and starting from August - every three days, then you can get a spherical bush with large flowers up to 10 cm in diameter.