Chrysanthemum multiflora planting and care in the open field

Chrysanthemum multiflora, blooming in the autumn, when there are fewer other flowers, can decorate any garden with elegant lush bushes and delight with a variety of varieties. The ideal spherical shape of the plant and a rich palette of colors allow you to create picturesque compositions. Chrysanthemum care is not difficult, but it requires compliance with certain rules.

Chrysanthemum multiflora: varieties

Chrysanthemum multiflora is a whole group of plants, which includes various varieties. All of them are suitable for outdoor cultivation. The varieties are divided into large-flowered and small-flowered. When they are combined, the design of the garden looks especially impressive.

The main varieties of this chrysanthemum are as follows:

1. Branfountain Lemon. The height of the bush is about half a meter. The flowers have a delicate lemon color with a richer palette in the middle.
2. Bransky Plum. Bushes up to 70 cm with deep pink flowers with a raspberry core.
3. Branroyal Yellow. At the peak of flowering, the leaves are completely hidden under large yellow flowers that resemble a ball.
4. Branbeach Orange. The flowering of the bushes begins earlier than that of other varieties - from mid-August. Flowers of a rich orange color are densely located on the stems of the bush, covering the leaves.
5. Brandove White. Flowers resembling pompons have a two-tone color: the middle is yellow-green, and the edges are white.
6. Branchili. Low bushes with small red flowers.

Plants hibernate well, but require shelter. In the northern regions, flowers are dug up for the winter and stored in a basement in a pot of peat.

Chrysanthemum multiflora: the nuances of growing

The plant is unpretentious and easy to care for. At the same time, due to the fact that it is necessary to know some of the features of chrysanthemums and take them into account when growing, an uninformed florist, ignoring them, risks losing the plant.

The main requirement is the shelter of flowers, even in the south, if the winter has little snow, and the temperature drops to -15 and lower for more than 2-3 days per season.

It should also be borne in mind that the chrysanthemum should not be planted near fences and walls, due to the fact that the fence violates equivalent lighting, which does not allow the plant to form a regular spherical bush.

Landing in open ground

Only correct planting in open ground ensures good growth of the chrysanthemum and its rapid flowering in autumn. Mistakes can cause the plant to simply not bloom.

Soil preparation and site

Chrysanthemum needs intense lighting, and therefore it should be planted in a sunny area, which is not shaded even in the evening hours. If the flower does not have enough light, then the spherical shape of the bush cannot be obtained. It will fall apart.

The soil for the chrysanthemum needs moisture permeable, since the bushes require a large amount of water. It should also be light and nutritious. The optimum composition is peat mixed with turf soil and sand in equal amounts. With this mixture you need to fill the hole in which the plant will be planted. It is unacceptable to use pure peat, as it dries out too quickly.

How and when to plant?

In the middle lane, the bushes are planted in open ground in the first days of May. In the south, the planting date is shifted by a month, and the chrysanthemum is planted in early April. In the northern regions, it is necessary to plant the plant in a spacious pot, since in winter it will have to be taken from the street for storage to the basement. You need to take out the chrysanthemum outside from mid-May.

When planting bushes in open ground, the distance must be strictly observed. You cannot plant them closer than 40 cm from each other.

Before planting, the hole is filled with a soil composition, to which a long-term complex fertilizer has been added. Then pour 3 liters of water into it. After that, the chrysanthemum is planted, carefully spreading its roots. It is unacceptable that they were tucked up. Deepen the plant into the soil to the first leaves. 2-3 weeks after planting, these leaves will die off, which is considered the norm.

When growing chrysanthemum multiflora in a pot, the same soil composition is used as for filling the holes. You can also use ready-made soil for flowering ornamental plants.

The first days after planting, flowers need high humidity, and for this they must be covered with a glass or plastic cap.

Chrysanthemum multiflora: care

In addition to proper planting, it is necessary to provide the chrysanthemum with high-quality care. The unpretentiousness of a plant does not mean that it can do without care at all.

Watering the plant

The flower is distinguished by a special moisture-loving nature, therefore, regular and abundant watering is the key to the correct development of the plant. Even if you dry out the chrysanthemum for a short time, it will negatively affect its growth.

Watering intervals depend on the weather. In the heat, in the absence of rain, chrysanthemums are watered daily: early in the morning or late in the evening, so that burns do not form on the leaves due to the sun's rays.

In rainy weather, watering the flowers is not required if the soil gets wet to a depth of 5 centimeters or more. If moisture is present at a shallower depth, it is necessary to abundantly moisten the soil around the plant.

Top dressing and fertilization

If you do not feed the plants, then they will turn yellow and will not give abundant flowering. The first feeding is carried out with nitrogen fertilization 20 days after planting. The second feeding is necessary at the budding stage, and a potassium-phosphorus composition is used for it. You can also apply a solution of poultry droppings in water, prepared in a ratio of 1:20, to the second feeding.

All dressings should be carried out only at the root. If fertilizers get on the leaves, you need to urgently rinse them off with clean water.

Post-flowering care

After the plants have faded, which happens in late October - early November, it is necessary to cut off the aerial part, leaving only 10 cm of the stem above the ground. Without this pruning, there will not be enough new shoots in the spring to make the bush look attractive.

Since in autumn chrysanthemums are often affected by powdery mildew, after pruning, it is necessary to spray the left petioles with a composition containing copper.

For the winter, the plants need to be covered with coniferous spruce branches and then covered with humus. This will be enough so that the bush does not freeze out, and also does not dry out.

Transfer

A plant transplant into a pot is needed if it is planned to place a flower for the winter in storage in the basement. Such wintering of chrysanthemums requires regular monitoring of soil moisture so that it does not dry out. Dig up the flower after cutting the aerial part. Do not shake off the earthen lump from the roots, as this will lead to their injury.

Reproduction of spherical chrysanthemum

The easiest way to breed a chrysanthemum is by dividing the root. For this purpose, an adult plant is dug out of the ground and the shoot with a part of the root is carefully separated from it. After that, the bush is planted again in its place. Division should be carried out only in April.

It is also possible to breed chrysanthemum multiflora and cuttings. For this, the bush from which it is planned to take material for breeding is brought into the heat in March. He also needs intense lighting and daylight hours of at least 14 hours. After the shoots grow up to 10-15 cm, they are cut and planted in wet sand. Rooting requires greenhouse conditions, and therefore it is necessary to cover the cuttings with jars. If everything goes well, then in the fall it will be possible to get high-quality bushes of the correct spherical shape.

Plant diseases and pests

In addition to powdery mildew, which appears in the fall, chrysanthemum multiflora practically does not get sick with anything. To a greater extent, the plant is disturbed by pests.

Most often, chrysanthemum is attacked:

• caterpillars - removed mechanically or by spraying the bushes with a solution of laundry soap and wood ash. It is possible to use the "spark" agent;
• aphids - destroyed with metronidazole tablets dissolved in water (1 tablet per glass of water) or laundry soap;
• spider mite - to get rid of it, it is enough just to water the plants every day so that all its leaves are well wet.

The spherical chrysanthemum multiflora will give the autumn garden a variety of colors and will sumptuously complete the garden season.

Multiflora is a popular type of chrysanthemum. Its distinctive feature is an unusual spherical shape and numerous miniature flowers that cover the tops of bright bushes with a solid carpet.

Appearance

Chrysanthemum is a genus of annuals and perennials of the Astrov family. Among the large number of species and varieties of this plant, spherical varieties with small flowers occupy a special place. Perennial beauties attract the eye primarily with their shape. Chrysanthemum multiflora bushes similar to balls have a very attractive appearance, and most importantly, they do not require special shaping. There are babies with a crown diameter of about 20 cm and giants that reach a height of more than 80 cm.

The flowering period is also different. The first early flowering varieties of multiflora begin to delight with various shades of petals in August, and the later ones bloom in the open field before the onset of frost. Small-flowered chrysanthemums surprise with a variety of shades of white, yellow, orange, red, pink, raspberry, cream, plum and brown.

Reproduction methods

Beautiful multiflora chrysanthemum bushes can be obtained using different methods.

• Dividing the bush

This method requires no additional effort. The division is usually carried out in the spring. The overgrown mother liquor is dug up and divided with a sharp, disinfected knife. Each section should have its own roots and shoots. The resulting young specimens are planted separately and watered abundantly. In the first year, it usually fails to grow a bush in the form of a regular ball, but later the flower takes on the desired shape.

• Growing seedlings from seeds

It is better to use commercial, good quality soil for seedlings.You can prepare the soil yourself on the basis of sod land, sand and humus in a ratio of 5: 2: 3 (it is frozen before use). Sowing is carried out in February or March. Seeds are scattered over the surface of wet soil, lightly sprinkled with sand and covered with plastic wrap. The container is transferred to a room with a temperature of about +24 degrees. Planting is regularly ventilated and watered. A pick is carried out when the first leaves appear on the seedlings. In cloudy weather and early sowing, additional lighting of the plantings is organized, increasing the daylight hours by several hours. At the time of planting in open ground, the seedlings reach a height of about 15-20 cm and have a powerful root system.

• Cuttings

A layer of sand is placed on the bottom of the prepared container. For soil, combine garden soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1. The ingredients are mixed and then poured onto the sand with a layer of at least 12 cm.

Cuttings are harvested from the beginning of March. Cut off shoots about 10 cm long, remove the lower leaves on them and place them in Kornevin's solution for a day. Future seedlings are placed in the ground at a distance of about 9 cm from each other. The plantings do not thicken, since the survival rate of plants is high and they grow rather quickly. The seedling box is covered with foil and transferred to a warm place. Young plants take root after a couple of weeks, after which they are seated in separate containers. Seedlings of multiflora need to be pinched after the appearance of the 7-8th leaf, so that they form a beautiful spherical shape.

It should be noted that when propagated by seeds, the varietal characteristics of the plant are not preserved. When grafting and dividing the bush, all the properties of the mother plant are not lost, therefore, these methods are used to propagate valuable and rare varieties of chrysanthemum multiflora.

Growing features

Caring for a spherical chrysanthemum is not difficult.

• Seat selection

A site for multiflora is chosen closed from strong winds, without drafts and as bright as possible.

• Disembarkation

Chrysanthemum multiflora is planted in open ground in April-May, depending on the growing region. The site is freed from weeds in advance and dug up. Fertilizing the plant when planting is necessary only on depleted sandy soils. The size of the hole is prepared depending on the variety and size of the plant. They try to land on a cloudy day. In the planting hole, the roots are well straightened, gradually the hole is filled with soil. Slightly compact the soil and water abundantly. When buying a chrysanthemum in a pot, they carry out a neat transfer of the flower.

• Priming

The plant will like loose soil with good air and water permeability. In heavy and dense soil, sand is additionally introduced, depleted soil is fertilized with organic matter.

• Watering

Chrysanthemum loves water. The frequency of humidification is adjusted depending on the weather conditions. During the budding period, you need to water abundantly, if there is no rain. On average, they are irrigated once a week during the period of active development; in dry and hot weather, the number of irrigations is increased. Sprinkling is not used, water is poured under the root of the plant: from drops of moisture on the velvety leaves, sunburn or rot may appear.

If the plant is grown in a pot or container, you need to water it more often: in a small amount, the earth dries out faster, and water starvation cannot be allowed - this negatively affects the appearance and health of the chrysanthemum.

• Top dressing

With a lack of nutrition, chlorosis of the leaves can be observed, growth slows down, the number of peduncles decreases. An excess of fertilizers leads to "fattening": the bushes grow green mass well, but bloom poorly. Also, excess organic matter provokes the appearance of aphids.

Organic fertilizing is carried out once a season, at the beginning of the growing season. You can use rotted manure or fermented bird droppings. During the budding period, fertilizers based on potassium and magnesium are used.

• Transfer

The flower is cultivated in one area for no more than three years.After that, it is advisable to dig it up, divide and plant new bushes in another place. If chrysanthemum multiflora does not change its place of residence for a long time, then it gradually degenerates and loses its unique shape.

• Pruning

After flowering, you must wait until the flowers dry. This will give an opportunity to form points of growth next year. After that, pruning is carried out at a level of 15-20 cm above the ground surface. A premature haircut can trigger the growth of dormant buds, which negatively affects the health of the chrysanthemum.

Diseases and pests

Multiflora has a predisposition to fungal diseases. The risk of developing infections increases with prolonged rainfall, over-watering and other maintenance mistakes, especially in combination with thickened plantings.

• The mottling first appears as yellow spots on the leaf blades (usually on the lower leaflets), which darken over time.
• From powdery mildew, the foliage is covered with an ash-gray bloom.
• In case of rust disease, orange spots are noticeable on the underside of the leaves.

Plants heavily affected by fungal diseases lose their beautiful appearance, bloom worse and weaken. For the prevention and treatment of various types of fungus, they are treated with copper oxychloride, Bordeaux liquid or 1% colloidal sulfur solution.

Plants infected with viral diseases, such as mosaics, cannot be treated. Infected specimens lag behind in growth, their foliage turns yellow, flowers become smaller. Such plants are removed from the site and destroyed. It is impossible to cultivate chrysanthemums for several years in the place where flowers sick with viruses grew.

The most common parasites found on chrysanthemum are aphids and ticks. They weaken the plant, feed on its juice. In case of mass defeat, the flower may die, therefore insecticides are used to control pests. Sometimes slugs love to feast on chrysanthemum leaves. They are collected by hand or destroyed by special means.

Wintering

Before the cold weather, the flower is not dug up, it hibernates in the ground. In areas with low winter temperatures, chrysanthemum is mulched with a small layer of soil, and then carefully covered with dry leaves or its own dead wood. In the southern regions with a mild climate, additional shelter is not needed, however, in the absence of snow cover, you need to protect the flower from the cold.

It is not recommended to carry out covering work early if the weather is warm for a long time in autumn. This can lead to overheating and damping of the plant.

In regions with cold winters, the chrysanthemum may freeze out. Valuable varieties are sometimes dug up and transferred to a cool dark room for the period of cold weather, lightly sprinkled with sawdust or soil. About once a month, it is necessary to moisten the bush and regularly examine it for the presence of fungal diseases. At the end of February, the rhizomes are transferred to a warmer room with a temperature of up to +15 degrees, and the amount of watering is gradually increased. In May, they land in open ground. A large bush is divided before work.

Chrysanthemum, which is grown in various containers on the street, is also moved to a cool place for wintering.

Chrysanthemum spherical is used to decorate flower beds and flower beds. It looks great in mixborders and as a tapeworm plant. Multiflora is planted in various decorative flowerpots and containers, which are used to decorate balconies, loggias, terraces. Thanks to long flowering, amazing multi-colored balls will paint your backyard with bright colors for a long time.

author Butrimova S.V., photo by the author

Chrysanthemum multiflora (spherical chrysanthemum), characterized by long and abundant flowering, has gained immense popularity among flower growers in recent years.

Having appreciated all the advantages of a spherical chrysanthemum, many gardeners strive to acquire rooted cuttings of multiflora in the spring for a bright decoration of their garden in late summer and autumn.
Often, varietal planting material of a spherical chrysanthemum is ordered via the Internet, then a parcel with seedlings is received by mail.

I want to share with the lovers of this wonderful plant some tips for the successful cultivation, reproduction and wintering of a globular chrysanthemum.
This article is based on questions about the cultivation of chrysanthemum multiflora, which are most often asked by flower growers.

I must say right away that my advice is not mandatory, but purely recommendatory. Since each grower has accumulated his own experience of growing chrysanthemums in his garden with certain climatic conditions and distinctive features of the soil; there are different physical and financial capabilities.

Caring for seedlings of spherical chrysanthemum after mailing

Having received the long-awaited parcel with spherical chrysanthemum seedlings, which have been on the way for several days, you need to immediately unpack the parcel and take proper care of the plants.

It is important that before planting in the garden, chrysanthemum seedlings quickly come to their senses after a long shipment in the absence of light and fresh air. After all, for cuttings sent by mail, this is undoubted stress: from a bright and warm greenhouse to get into a dark box for several days, and then abruptly - under the sun, under the breeze and into the cool night garden ...

In the photo: cuttings of multiflora chrysanthemum packed in a parcel box

After unpacking the cuttings of the multifor chrysanthemum, it is advisable to hold the seedlings outside in partial shade for a couple of days so that the plants adapt to the new conditions.
If possible, in the morning and in the evening, it is advisable to spray seedlings of spherical chrysanthemum for 4-5 days (with a solution of Epin or Zircon).

When planting spherical chrysanthemum seedlings in open ground, do not forget to build shading for them for the first time, as is done for any planted seedlings.
Alternatively, use old, bottomless buckets or other similar temporary shelters to shade the planted plants and protect them from the wind - at least for a week, until the chrysanthemum seedlings take root.

Planting and pinching of multiflora chrysanthemum seedlings

In chrysanthemum multiflora, the shape of a bush in the form of a ball is genetically laid down, therefore it will be formed without pinching the seedling.
But, due to the fact that it is not always possible to plant a chrysanthemum multiflora stalk in open ground immediately after rooting, it often outgrows and stretches. And then, in this case, a single pinching of the long shoot of the chrysanthemum will contribute to a faster and easier formation of a spherical multiflora bush.

In some varieties of chrysanthemum multiflora, some of the rooted cuttings begin to bush on their own on the crown even before they are planted in the ground. In this case, I advise you to slightly deepen the stalk of the chrysanthemum when planting (before the branching of the main shoot begins).

For clarity, I provide below three photos of rooted cuttings of multiflora in order to guide flower growers in different situations with chrysanthemum seedlings:
- the stalk in the first photo is of normal size, when planting it can not be buried or pinched;
- it is advisable to cut the long handle in the second photo from above (to the level shown by the hand);
- in the third photo, the stalk, which has begun to bush at the top of the head, can be deepened during planting (to the level shown by the hand).

In the photo: different situations with chrysanthemum seedlings

Choose a spacious, open, sunny place for growing spherical chrysanthemums, where they will form dense, beautiful bushes-"balls" and bloom very profusely.

It is necessary to plant multiflora chrysanthemum seedlings in the ground at a distance of 50-80 cm from each other, taking into account the formation of wide bushes.

Chrysanthemums love light nutritious soil, so when planting multiflora seedlings, I recommend adding a mixture of humus and peat to the holes.

Benefits of planting chrysanthemum multiflora seedlings in pots

For those gardeners who have many different flowers growing in their flower beds, including heat-loving summer plants, the option of planting multiforum chrysanthemum seedlings in pots is very convenient.

Plant multiflora seedlings one plant at a time in large pots (3.5-5 liters) with drainage holes at the bottom.
Then these pots with spherical chrysanthemum seedlings MUST BE BURLED into the ground. This will save potted plants from adverse natural factors (from overheating in summer, from overturning by the wind, etc.).

Planting multiflora chrysanthemum seedlings in pots is convenient and rational for several reasons.
Firstly, while the chrysanthemum seedlings are still small and insufficiently decorative, you can temporarily dig in pots with developing bushes, first not in the front place of flower beds, but somewhere on the sidelines or in the garden, where the young plants will be spacious and sunny.
Then, closer to autumn, when the multiflora chrysanthemum already forms a beautiful spherical crown and is completely covered with buds, preparing to bloom, it is time to dig up the pots with spectacular plants and move them to a prominent place in the garden. For example, dig up flower beds in the foreground instead of fading summer beds. At the same time, such a movement of pots with chrysanthemums to a new place will be completely painless for flowering bushes.

Secondly, the advantage of planting multiflora seedlings in pots is that for a small pot volume, it is not difficult to prepare a nutritious and light substrate with the addition of perlite or vermiculite.

Thirdly, the multiflora chrysanthemum bushes growing in pots will not need to be dug out of open ground in the fall and transplanted - before lowering the plants to the basement for the winter. It will be enough just to remove from the flower beds and transfer the pots with treated chrysanthemum queen cells to the right place.

Features of the development of the multiflora chrysanthemum bush

Chrysanthemum multiflora begins to build up the bulk of its spherical bush only from mid-July, and until that time the growth of shoots is small.
Florists who grow multiflora for the first time are very worried about its slow development in the first half of summer - they think that such small bushes will be in the globular chrysanthemum in the fall.

However, in August it is no longer possible to recognize the grown and prettier multiflora chrysanthemum, which becomes very decorative even without flowers. By September, she has fully formed a full-fledged spherical bush, and this miracle is formed from just a single small cuttings planted in spring!

In the photo: multiflora chrysanthemums of the varieties "Corrida" and "Apacho"

Globular Chrysanthemum Care

In the process of growth, the spherical chrysanthemum is very responsive to feeding. At the same time, do not forget to alternate root dressing of chrysanthemum and foliar (spraying on the leaves).

Since spring, chrysanthemum multiflora should be fed with complex fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen, which contributes to the formation of a branched strong bush.

In summer, for a better development of chrysanthemums, it is advisable to use complex fertilizers, in which, in addition to the main components, there are microelements (for example, "Master", "Fertika", "Bona Forte for roses and chrysanthemums", various humates, etc.).

Closer to the budding period, an adult chrysanthemum requires phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (for example, potassium humate).
By the way, spraying multiflora flowering bushes with a solution of potassium humate gives its flowers a more saturated, rich color.

Wintering of the mother plant of chrysanthemum multiflora

In regions with cold winters, chrysanthemum multiflora winters in a cool room or in a garden under an air-dry shelter.

When wintering a globular chrysanthemum indoors, it is important to ensure that the basement or cellar is not too damp. It is also important that the soil with the roots of the mother plant of the chrysanthemum does not dry out completely (if necessary, place a handful of snow on the substrate in a box or in a pot with a wintering chrysanthemum).

It is necessary to lower into the basement the uterine bushes of chrysanthemum multiflora, properly prepared for wintering:
- with cut off shoots (up to a height of 10 cm) and then peeled from leaves;
- with ALWAYS DRY remnants of shoots.

When wintering chrysanthemum multiflora in open ground under an air-dry shelter, the bushes are preliminarily prepared in the same way: they are cut and cleaned of old foliage so as not to create conditions for the development of rot.

The choice of the option for wintering a spherical chrysanthemum under an air-dry shelter must be carried out taking into account the climate of the region of your garden, taking into account the characteristics of the terrain and the microclimate of the garden. For example, if melt water does not leave your site for a long time in spring, then the option of wintering multiflora in the garden is unacceptable.

There are many options for constructing an air dry shelter for wintering plants. The choice of the appropriate option depends mainly on your physical, technical and financial capabilities.
Various options for arranging an air-dry shelter for chrysanthemums can be viewed on the Internet by typing in a search engine "examples of an air-dry shelter for plants."

In the photo: chrysanthemums of multiflora varieties "Branfontaine Salmon" and "Brenbanni"

About limited watering of the overwintered mother plant of chrysanthemum

I want to draw your attention to a common mistake with excessive watering, which many growers make when they take out multiflora mother plants from the basement in the spring, which are already beginning to germinate.

The mistake lies in the fact that overwintered chrysanthemum bushes begin to water abundantly after storage. This often leads to the death of multiflora from the clogging of the rhizome.

To prevent this from happening, you need to water the uterine chrysanthemum bushes only after the earth has completely dried out. And at the same time, do not spill the entire earthen lump, but take literally half a cup of water and splash it over the surface of the substrate in the pot.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum multiflora

In the overwintered chrysanthemum multiflora, young shoots grow from the rhizome. They can be simply separated from the rhizome and planted for rooting in an individual pot (one shoot at a time).
Alternatively, you can wait until the multiflora shoots grow up, and then handwritten them.

In the photo: from a single rooted cuttings from the mother plant of chrysanthemum multiflora by the end of summer, a spherical bush grows, completely covered with buds

Cutting chrysanthemums is not difficult. I cut the cuttings from the mother bush, remove the lower leaves from them. I powder the cuttings with Kornevin, or put them in Kornevin's solution, or dip them in Clonex Gel.
Then I plant the multiflora cuttings prepared in this way one by one in disposable plastic cups filled with a light and loose substrate.
You can also plant chrysanthemum cuttings for rooting in peat or coconut tablets (in tablets, the rooting of cuttings goes very well).

It remains to create a greenhouse effect for the planted chrysanthemum cuttings for successful and quick rooting.
Then, 2-3 times a day, I spray the planted cuttings with a rooting stimulant - Epin, Energen or some similar preparation.

Perhaps someone may find it difficult to reproduce and grow multiflora chrysanthemums. In fact, these processes are not labor intensive. On the contrary, caring for a chrysanthemum is not difficult, it is very simple and interesting. And admiring the blooming spherical chrysanthemums is a lot of pleasure!

In the photo: Branbed Orange and Kilo multiflora chrysanthemums

Purchase spherical chrysanthemum seedlings of the desired varieties with a variety of flower colors for your garden.And then your garden will be colored with bright, abundantly flowering bushes of multiflora chrysanthemums until late autumn!

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Chrysanthemum multiflora: planting and care, growing in the open field

Chrysanthemum multiflora, blooming in the autumn, when there are fewer other flowers, can decorate any garden with elegant lush bushes and delight with a variety of varieties. The ideal spherical shape of the plant and a rich palette of colors allow you to create picturesque compositions. Chrysanthemum care is not difficult, but it requires compliance with certain rules.

Chrysanthemum multiflora: varieties

Chrysanthemum multiflora is a whole group of plants, which includes various varieties. All of them are suitable for outdoor cultivation. The varieties are divided into large-flowered and small-flowered. When they are combined, the design of the garden looks especially impressive.

The main varieties of this chrysanthemum are as follows:

1. Branfountain Lemon. The height of the bush is about half a meter. The flowers have a delicate lemon color with a richer palette in the middle.
2. Bransky Plum. Bushes up to 70 cm with deep pink flowers with a raspberry core.
3. Branroyal Yellow.

   At the peak of flowering, the leaves are completely hidden under large yellow flowers that resemble a ball.

4. Branbeach Orange. The flowering of the bushes begins earlier than that of other varieties - from mid-August. Flowers of a rich orange color are densely located on the stems of the bush, covering the leaves.
5. Brandove White. Flowers resembling pompons have a two-tone color: the middle is yellow-green, and the edges are white.
6. Branchili. Low bushes with small red flowers.

Plants overwinter well, but require shelter.

In the northern regions, flowers are dug up for the winter and stored in a basement in a pot of peat.

Chrysanthemum multiflora: the nuances of growing

The plant is unpretentious and easy to care for. At the same time, due to the fact that it is necessary to know some of the features of chrysanthemums and take them into account when growing, an uninformed florist, ignoring them, risks losing the plant.

The main requirement is the shelter of flowers, even in the south, if the winter has little snow, and the temperature drops to -15 and lower for more than 2-3 days per season.

It should also be borne in mind that the chrysanthemum should not be planted near fences and walls, due to the fact that the fence violates equivalent lighting, which does not allow the plant to form a regular spherical bush.

Landing in open ground

Only correct planting in open ground ensures good growth of the chrysanthemum and its rapid flowering in autumn. Mistakes can cause the plant to simply not bloom.

Soil preparation and site

Chrysanthemum needs intense lighting, and therefore it should be planted in a sunny area, which is not shaded even in the evening hours. If the flower does not have enough light, then the spherical shape of the bush cannot be obtained. It will fall apart.

The soil for the chrysanthemum needs moisture-permeable, since the bushes require a large amount of water. It should also be light and nutritious. The optimum composition is peat mixed with turf soil and sand in equal amounts. With this mixture you need to fill the hole in which the plant will be planted. It is unacceptable to use pure peat, as it dries out too quickly.

How and when to plant?

In the middle lane, the bushes are planted in open ground in the first days of May. In the south, the planting date is shifted by a month, and the chrysanthemum is planted in early April. In the northern regions, it is necessary to plant the plant in a spacious pot, since in winter it will have to be taken from the street for storage to the basement. You need to take out the chrysanthemum outside from mid-May.

When planting bushes in open ground, the distance must be strictly observed. You cannot plant them closer than 40 cm from each other.

Before planting, the hole is filled with a soil composition, to which a long-term complex fertilizer has been added. Then pour 3 liters of water into it. After that, the chrysanthemum is planted, carefully spreading its roots. It is unacceptable that they were tucked up. Deepen the plant into the soil to the first leaves. 2-3 weeks after planting, these leaves will die off, which is considered the norm.

When growing chrysanthemum multiflora in a pot, the same soil composition is used as for filling the holes. You can also use ready-made soil for flowering ornamental plants.

The first days after planting, flowers need high humidity, and for this they must be covered with a glass or plastic cap.

In addition to proper planting, it is necessary to provide the chrysanthemum with high-quality care. The unpretentiousness of a plant does not mean that it can do without care at all.

Watering the plant

The flower is distinguished by a special moisture-loving nature, therefore, regular and abundant watering is the key to the correct development of the plant. Even if you dry out the chrysanthemum for a short time, it will negatively affect its growth.

Watering intervals depend on the weather. In the heat, in the absence of rain, chrysanthemums are watered daily: early in the morning or late in the evening, so that burns do not form on the leaves due to the sun's rays.

In rainy weather, watering the flowers is not required if the soil gets wet to a depth of 5 centimeters or more. If moisture is present at a shallower depth, it is necessary to abundantly moisten the soil around the plant.

Top dressing and fertilization

If you do not feed the plants, then they will turn yellow and will not give abundant flowering. The first feeding is carried out with nitrogen fertilization 20 days after planting. The second feeding is necessary at the budding stage, and a potassium-phosphorus composition is used for it. You can also apply a solution of poultry droppings in water, prepared in a ratio of 1:20, to the second feeding.

All dressings should be carried out only at the root. If fertilizers get on the leaves, you need to urgently rinse them off with clean water.

Post-flowering care

After the plants have faded, which happens in late October - early November, it is necessary to cut off the aerial part, leaving only 10 cm of the stem above the ground. Without this pruning, there will not be enough new shoots in the spring to make the bush look attractive.

Since in autumn chrysanthemums are often affected by powdery mildew, after pruning, it is necessary to spray the left petioles with a composition containing copper.

For the winter, the plants need to be covered with coniferous spruce branches and then covered with humus. This will be enough so that the bush does not freeze out, and also does not dry out.

Transfer

A plant transplant into a pot is needed if it is planned to place a flower for the winter in storage in the basement. Such wintering of chrysanthemums requires regular monitoring of soil moisture so that it does not dry out. Dig up the flower after cutting the aerial part. Do not shake off the earthen lump from the roots, as this will lead to their injury.

Reproduction of spherical chrysanthemum

The easiest way to breed a chrysanthemum is by dividing the root. For this purpose, an adult plant is dug out of the ground and the shoot with a part of the root is carefully separated from it. After that, the bush is planted again in its place. Division should be carried out only in April.

It is also possible to breed chrysanthemum multiflora and cuttings. For this, the bush from which it is planned to take material for breeding is brought into the heat in March. He also needs intense lighting and daylight hours of at least 14 hours.

After the shoots grow up to 10-15 cm, they are cut and planted in wet sand. Rooting requires greenhouse conditions, and therefore it is necessary to cover the cuttings with jars.

If everything goes well, then in the fall it will be possible to get high-quality bushes of the correct spherical shape.

Plant diseases and pests

In addition to powdery mildew, which appears in the fall, chrysanthemum multiflora practically does not get sick with anything. To a greater extent, the plant is disturbed by pests.

Most often, chrysanthemum is attacked:

• caterpillars - removed mechanically or by spraying the bushes with a solution of laundry soap and wood ash. It is possible to use the "spark" agent;
• aphids - destroyed with metronidazole tablets dissolved in water (1 tablet per glass of water) or laundry soap;
• spider mite - to get rid of it, it is enough just to water the plants every day so that all its leaves are well wet.

The spherical chrysanthemum multiflora will give the autumn garden a variety of colors and will sumptuously complete the garden season.

Spherical chrysanthemums: features of cultivation and care

All the secrets of spherical chrysanthemum, its cultivation and care will not take much time and effort. These wonderful plants bloom early, they are unpretentious and give your garden an unusual look.

Chrysanthemum globular or Chrysanthemum Multiflora is a relatively recently bred hybrid. Its height is about 50 cm and amazes observers with its bizarre shape.

The fact is that the inflorescences take the shape of a regular ball and almost do not require pruning. The foliage is not visible at all, which means that wonderful flower balls will appear in your garden.

In addition, they are unpretentious in care and can please the eye for 3 months: from August to October.

Varieties of chrysanthemums

There are several types of plants. Due to the fact that there are several varieties in growth and flowering periods, they remain so popular. Separate undersized, medium and tall chrysanthemums.

The first ones reach about 20-30 cm in height, the second 30-40, and the last 60-70 cm. The most common are medium-sized plants because of their moderate flowering and the ability to plant in completely different places.

But undersized, you can decorate a garden, flower beds, a loggia, rooms and any room.

Chrysanthemums Multiflora are also distinguished by the flowering period. Early flowering blooms in August, mid-blooming in September, and late blooming chrysanthemums in late September and October. With the right selection of various species, you can provide yourself with a blooming flower bed all the time from summer to the onset of cold weather.

Spherical chrysanthemums

Growing chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum cultivation can take place both in pots and in the open field. If you decide to plant this plant, then it is worth remembering several important features of multiflora chrysanthemum when planting and caring for:

1. First of all, lighting is important. If the shrub is planted in a sunny area, it can prevent late and short-term flowering, as well as protect against the growth of long shoots.
2. The soil should be mixed with compost or humus to improve its fertility. It should be light and loose. But do not overdo it - chrysanthemums can grow a lot and bloom a little.
3. Chrysanthemum Multiflora should be planted on cloudy, sunny days, in summer - early in the morning or in the evening. The dug hole is first watered with high quality, then drainage is placed, and then soil. It is not worth planting a chrysanthemum too deep, since its root system is superficial, a fossa of about 40 cm will be sufficient.
4. After planting, the plant is pinched. The growth point is removed from him. The second pinching is done after 20 days, the shoot and a couple of nodes are removed. Some argue that the shape of the ball in the plant is genetically inherent, so pinching needs to be done only once, and the chrysanthemum will independently take the desired shape. Here each gardener decides on his own, but it is worth remembering that additional pinching does not harm the plant. In the early days, chrysanthemum globular needs shelter from the sun. Non-woven fabrics are used that will not touch the leaves of the plant.

Chrysanthemum care

In addition to pinching and a little shading, chrysanthemums need additional care.Flowers are not very whimsical and finicky, but if you take care of them correctly, you can improve the flowering period.

The soil needs fertilization. This is best done in the spring, during the growing season. Humus or mullein work well. But during the formation of buds, superphosphate is useful in a proportion of 50 g per 1 m². This is necessary for a longer and stronger flowering.

Chrysanthemum multicolor

It is necessary to water Multiflora often, as it loves moisture very much. On dry days, keep the ground moist and dry. For irrigation, it is better to use standing water or rainwater with a few drops of ammonia for softness.

Most chrysanthemums can suffer from caterpillars. Therefore, pay attention to the appropriate chemicals and spray periodically to avoid caterpillar infestation.

If you find blackened leaves or bare stems on the bush, this means that the soil of the plant is excessively moist, and the bush itself has too many inflorescences. All this is a sign of powdery mildew disease. At the first detection of this disease, it is worth taking the following steps immediately:

1. Tear off damaged stems and foliage.
2. Get rid of the upper soil, where the spores of the fungus damaging the plant are located, and replace it with a new one.
3. Spray the flowers with a copper-soapy solution. To do this, you need to dilute 10 g of copper sulfate in 250 ml of water and add to 10 liters of warm water, where 100 g of soap was previously diluted. This solution is enough for 5-6 sprays with a break of 7 days.

The plant can get burned if there are high temperatures outside for a long time. You can recognize it if you notice yellowish or brown leaves that have begun to dry out. Such a sheet should be removed immediately. To protect chrysanthemum from root rot, Fitosporin should be added to the water for irrigation. Watering with such water can be used for prophylaxis or courses.

Chrysanthemum storage in winter

If you have spherical chrysanthemums, then how to preserve them in winter is the only thing that requires increased attention and strength. If many varieties of chrysanthemums can easily overwinter in open soil, Microflora is not capable of this.

It can endure the winter only in a warm southern climate, where the temperature drops slightly below 0. In most regions of Russia, they need to be dug out in the fall before the onset of severe frosts.

And in order for them to stand and please the eye longer, they need to be covered with polyethylene in the evening, especially if low temperatures are expected at night.

Digging out chrysanthemums should be started before it gets colder, when the upper part is dry, which means that the bush has retired. To do this, you first need to cut off its stems, and place the roots in a box with earth, sawdust or sand. Such boxes are stored in dark places with a recommended temperature of -3 to +5 C.

Cellars will do, but if they are not available, then the space in the refrigerators for vegetables will do. The ground should not be too wet or dry. At the end of April, the plant wakes up when it is exposed to the sun and warmth without any shelter.

And if the soil warms up, then you can safely plant it again.

Even if the plants grow in a room and are cultivated indoors, they also need extra winter care. For chrysanthemums, the overdried air of apartments will be destructive, so they also need to be cut off and placed in the basement.

But make sure that it is free of fungi and mold.

Check the ventilation and air ducts in advance, and if there are traces of fungus on the floor or any surface, they need to be removed, and this place should be rinsed with a solution of copper sulfate or already used machine oil to prevent the death of flowers.

Plant propagation

The best way to reproduce spherical chrysanthemums is reproduction by dividing the rhizomes, because they do not retain varietal characteristics when planted with seeds.

A few years later, the plant has dense shoots and stops developing, which means it loses its decorative effect. This means it's time to update it. The right time for this is spring, when the bush is ready to plant.

To do this, you need to divide the appeared leaves into several identical parts. Sprinkle the cut area immediately with ash so as not to get infected with the chrysanthemum.

And if you need several shoots at once, then cuttings are suitable for this. Before the plant begins to bloom, it is necessary to cut off the densest branches and lower them into settled water or wet sand.

After a few days, these cuttings form new roots and can be transplanted into fertile soil. Thus, Multiflora also reproduces perfectly. It can be replanted in summer and early fall.

It is only important to give it time to take root in the soil before the first temperature drops. Or immediately prepare plants in the house in special flowerpots or pots.

Benefits of the globular chrysanthemum

Multiflora is a favorite plant of many gardeners for many reasons. It is used in many areas of gardening and landscape design due to its relative ease of care and unpretentiousness. But besides, they are very easy to combine with various colors and look advantageous in almost any flower bed.

Still, it is worth remembering that tall chrysanthemums will look better with neighbors of the same size, and undersized ones with smaller plants.

But every flower bed is a place for experimentation! Confident gardeners can try planting chrysanthemum lines one after the other, bringing smaller species forward, or experimenting with shades to create gradients.

Garden decoration

Multiflora with evergreen trees looks good. The rounded ball, as it were, smooths out the forms of thorny plants, gives a unique liveliness and makes the view more interesting.

Low-growing chrysanthemums can be used to delineate the boundaries of a specific area, beds, roads or curbs.

But as for the color of plants, which is about 4000, then imagination and the desire to transform the site come into battle. Compositions of bright green grass and white or yellow shades will be beneficial.

Do not be afraid of the neighborhood and different types of flowers - bright chrysanthemums will go well with any of the planted plants.

And in the autumn period you will be delighted with the Multiflora of late blooming of saturated scarlet, pink flowers. When most of the species have already faded and are about to overwinter, the riot of colors of such chrysanthemums will not go unnoticed.

If you use them for flowering on the balcony, as a home flower, then perhaps not every bush will bloom so vigorously due to the small space allotted to it.

As you can see, caring for chrysanthemums is not such a costly and complicated business. One has only to adhere to the main rules and do not forget some of the nuances - and your garden or balcony will be provided with a beautiful and long flowering of a delightful flower.

How to grow multiflora chrysanthemums?

Today, a new type of spherical chrysanthemum is widely popular among gardeners and flower lovers. Chrysanthemum multiflora, planting and caring for which have their own characteristics, is not whimsical at all. She can truly become a decoration of any garden or park area. It is attractive for its abundant flowering and spherical shape.

The bushes of this breed are abundantly covered with flowers during the flowering period, depending on the variety, the buds can be either small or medium or large in size.

The spherical form of a bush, completely covered with bright flowers, is used with great pleasure by landscape designers in their works.

Chrysanthemum multiflora has a fairly wide range of colors, flowers can be white, purple, blue, red, plum, orange. This species has almost the entire color spectrum.

It should be borne in mind that this group of flowers has a wide variety of varieties. There is even the smallest species, this is a dwarf chrysanthemum bush. In general, he is no different from his large relatives and is in no way inferior to them in beauty.

Their main flowering falls in September. But they also love multiflora because it blooms early and makes it possible to admire its beauty even before frost.

With the correct location of the plant, namely on the east and west sides, the bushes will be able to bloom by the end of August.

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Today, a new type of spherical chrysanthemum is widely popular among gardeners and flower lovers. Chrysanthemum multiflora, planting and caring for which have their own characteristics, is not whimsical at all. She can truly become a decoration of any garden or park area. It is attractive for its abundant flowering and spherical shape.

The bushes of this breed are abundantly covered with flowers during the flowering period, depending on the variety, the buds can be either small or medium or large in size.

The spherical form of a bush, completely covered with bright flowers, is used with great pleasure by landscape designers in their works.

Chrysanthemum multiflora has a fairly wide range of colors, flowers can be white, purple, blue, red, plum, orange. This species has almost the entire color spectrum.

It should be borne in mind that this group of flowers has a wide variety of varieties. There is even the smallest species, this is a dwarf chrysanthemum bush. In general, he is no different from his large relatives and is in no way inferior to them in beauty.

Their main flowering falls in September. But they also love multiflora because it blooms early and makes it possible to admire its beauty even before frost.

With the correct location of the plant, namely on the east and west sides, the bushes will be able to bloom by the end of August.

Care features

Gardeners grow this breed in pots or special containers, so that later they can be transplanted into open ground. Globular chrysanthemums are now very popular; they can be purchased in special nurseries or in flower shops.

Many present them as a gift option and that is why their cost is quite high. In appearance, a small bush in a pot no more than 25 cm high resembles a houseplant, but for development and lush flowering it will need to be transplanted into the ground.

Indoors, this variety dies, even if it is planted in large flowerpots. This is due to the peculiarities of the wintering of this chrysanthemum.

Growing and caring for this variety requires certain knowledge regarding the time of planting young cuttings, watering and wintering conditions.

If the necessary rules for care are not followed, the plant will not be able to develop and will eventually stop growing and flowering.

But with all this, chrysanthemum multiflora makes it easier for its owners to work, it is unique in its genetics, which allows it to always have a spherical shape without pinching and forming.

Even from a cuttings planted in open ground with one shoot, with proper care, a beautiful spherical bush will grow. But the landing site must be chosen wisely.

Planting a flower

For planting young cuttings, it is worth choosing an open, non-shaded place so that there are no trees and high fences nearby that create shade. This variety is very fond of an abundance of light. In addition, multiflora does not like highly moistened soil; an elevated drainage place is ideal for it.

Young bushes are planted in pre-prepared soil. The soil is initially dug up and a little sod soil and drainage are added, and for better plant acceptance, the soil must be fertilized.

Chrysanthemum is planted in early spring, already in April most gardeners are trying to plant a spherical chrysanthemum.

It is believed that this variety of flowers can perfectly tolerate small flash frosts. In the event of such undesirable changes in the weather, it will be enough to cover the plant with a bucket or other container overnight.

After a long hibernation, the plant must be woken up, for this, a few days before planting in open ground, the mother plant is placed in a container with water and then exposed to a window with good lighting.

This is done in order for the buds to grow.

Many experts recommend breeding before planting, dividing the mother plant into several bushes, but so that each has at least one shoot and this will be enough to grow beautiful spherical bushes. It is better to disembark in cloudy weather and in the morning to avoid burns on young leaves.

The root system must be carefully laid out in different directions and bends must be avoided, they must all be directed downward. It must be borne in mind that the plant will gain strength over time and grow and expand. So that the bushes do not interfere with each other and do not deform their shape, it is worth maintaining a certain distance between them when planting, it is at least 60 cm from each other.

The plant does not need excessive fertilizing with fertilizers.

General recommendations

It is necessary to water the shrub in the morning only under the root system and exclusively with settled water. This variety does not tolerate watering in cool times of the day and with cold water. You should also not flood the soil too much, so as not to overmoisten the soil. Most gardeners advise watering chrysanthemums occasionally and in dry weather.

It is necessary to fertilize the plant 1-2 times a month. The very first feeding is done after 2 weeks from planting, and only if the plant has already begun to grow. Fertilizers are based on potash and magnesium fertilization, which must be reduced over time.

In general, there are no difficulties in caring for this type of chrysanthemum, the main thing is to properly preserve it in the winter and correctly plant it in the ground.

As already became clear, this variety cannot reproduce by seeds; this is done by dividing the rhizome into several bushes with shoots.

Chrysanthemum will begin to delight with lush flowering already at the end of summer and will delight the flesh with its beauty until the end of October. As soon as the plant has faded, it is necessary to cut off the aerial part. This procedure will stimulate the emergence of new basal shoots in the future.

Wintering conditions

Depending on the climatic conditions of the area where the plant grows, wintering can also be carried out outdoors. The bush must be insulated with straw and sawdust.

Chrysanthemum varieties hibernating in the open field do not require reinforced wrapping with polyethylene and other types of insulation.

For them, moderate cover and timely deployment in the spring from the moment the snow melts are enough.

Otherwise, excessive moisture and evaporation can lead to damping of the root system. But in case of severe weather conditions, as well as in regions with severe frosts, the plant must be dug up, the root system must be dried, the remains of the earth must be removed and placed in containers with sawdust. Then the containers are lowered into the cellar.

It is worth saying that for a safe wintering, these plants need a complete lack of light. But even during the wintering period, the rhizome cannot be left unattended, it is necessary to ensure that the container is not excessively damp or, on the contrary, do not allow the roots to dry out.

If the roots dry out, a little melted snow can be added to the container to slightly moisten the mother plant.

Some gardeners prefer to store the mother liquor even in refrigerators, but in this case, the rhizome should be well wrapped in paper and prevent freezing of the processes.

This plant will become an incredible decoration of the landscape near your home or in the country. Do not be intimidated by the difficulties in growing this species. the task is correct planting in the ground and proper storage of the root system in winter.

Otherwise, this flower is not whimsical and difficult to care for.

The spherical chrysanthemum, the cultivation of which will bring only pleasure and joy, with its exuberant flowering and play of colors will only confirm that it is not without reason called the queen of autumn.

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Ball-shaped chrysanthemum multiflora in the garden: from planting to care

→ Flowers → Ball-shaped chrysanthemum multiflora in the garden: from planting to leaving

Chrysanthemum belongs to the Astrov family. Chrysanthemum multiflora or spherical differs from other species of this plant in its short stature, shape and abundance of flowers. Recently, it has become very popular due to the timing of flowering, decorativeness, a variety of colors and an abundance of flowers.

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Structural features

Chrysanthemum multiflora resembles a ball in shape, all covered with rather large flowers. The variety of colors and shades is striking. There are more than 4000 of them. Plants of this hybrid form the crown themselves.

Chrysanthemums by flowering time are divided into:

• Early flowering, which bloom in August.
• Medium, which begins flowering in September.
• Late, the flowering period of which lasts from September to October.

According to the height of the bush, chrysanthemums multiflora are divided into:

• Super short, 20 cm high.
• Medium-sized, up to 40 cm high.
• High, up to 70 cm high.

Due to the fact that the bush has the shape of a ball, the height of the bush is equal to its diameter. The height of the bush depends not only on the species, but also on the growing conditions and weather.

Chrysanthemum is a plant that requires short daylight hours to bloom.

It blooms when night and day are almost equal. The multiflora hybrid is an early flowering hybrid. The first flowers open in August, and flowering ends in October. Plants that grow in the shade of buildings or fences may bloom earlier. The root system of the chrysanthemum is located close to the soil surface. This must be taken into account when loosening and weeding.

Reproduction methods

You can get new chrysanthemum multiflora plants:

1. Cuttings.
2. By dividing the bush.
3. Branch of root growth.
4. It is possible to get new plants from seeds, but there is no guarantee that they will retain the species properties of the parent plant.

It is necessary to grow chrysanthemum multiflora with cuttings at the end of summer so that they take root before frost. If you did not manage to plant young plants in the soil before mid-September, use wide flowerpots. Install them on the street.

Water it periodically. After the cold comes, the pots are removed to a cool, dark room, the temperature in which does not exceed 5 ° C. This could be a cellar or a cold basement.

In such conditions, young plants overwinter well.

Closer to spring, at the end of February, pots with chrysanthemums are taken out into a warm room and watered. They will start to release young shoots. Some of them are cut off after they reach a height of 10 cm, and planted in prepared loose soil. Mix part of the garden soil, humus and 2 parts of sand. Cover with glass or polyethylene.

A month later, when the cuttings take root, they are transplanted into a separate bowl.In the spring, the finished plants are planted in the soil. Before planting, the bushes are separated. One root is enough to grow a bush. But you can plant a part of the bush, consisting of several processes.

Landing rules

Chrysanthemum multiflora is grown outdoors or in containers. Grow it in sunny areas. If planted in the shade, the shoots will elongate, the flowers lose their brightness, the flowering time will change.

Features of planting chrysanthemums:

1. Growing chrysanthemums requires loose, nutritious soil. But you can't overfeed her too much. An oversupply of fertilizer can lead to rapid growth of shoots to the detriment of flowering. You can make the soil lighter by adding peat and humus to it. The composting improves its structure. River sand will serve as drainage and protect the plant's root system from decay. The soil should be neutral or slightly acidic.
2. When planting a spherical chrysanthemum, you need to choose the evening or morning hours. Chrysanthemum transplanted in cloudy weather or after rain is well tolerated. Chrysanthemum tolerates light frosts. But for this she needs to have time to take root. Bushes are planted in April, May or early June, after spring frosts. It depends on the climatic conditions. But you need to plant as early as possible.
3. They dig holes with a depth of 40 cm. The distance between them is at least 50 cm. Water the holes, lay drainage (sand, expanded clay or small pebbles). Prepare a mixture of 20 parts of soil and one part of humus. Do not deepen the root system.
4. Low and medium-sized varieties do not require support. Tall ones are tied up using low supports. To do this, when planting, rods about 1 m long are placed in the hole.
5. After planting chrysanthemum multiflora, it is necessary to shade until it takes root and grows. Use agrofiber or other materials. But they should not touch the plant leaves.

Chrysanthemum multiflora itself forms a crown in the form of a ball. But in order for her to be more magnificent, she needs help. Immediately after planting, pinch the growth point. After 3 weeks, the tops of the shoots with several nodes are torn off.

Care Tips

In order for the chrysanthemum to please with its beautiful flowering, it is gently and correctly to care for it:

• Chrysanthemum should be regularly watered with rainwater. If there is no rain for a long time, you can use settled water. Watering often, but not waterlogging the soil. Such watering will help preserve the decorative effect of the bush as long as possible. If the earthen lump dries up, this will lead to lignification of the shoots. If the soil remains dry for a long time, the plant may die. Spraying chrysanthemum multiflora is not carried out.
• Top dressing can be done once a season, shortly after planting, with nitrogen fertilizers. You can use an infusion of mullein or chicken droppings. Some gardeners add potassium and phosphorus. But this must be done before the formation of buds.
• After flowering, the stems are cut at a distance of 10 cm from the ground. This will stimulate the growth of young shoots. The plant will be more resistant to disease.
• The disadvantage of chrysanthemum multiflora is their insufficient frost resistance. Which, however, is typical for most chrysanthemums. Therefore, it is better to plant them in flowerpots or containers for the winter. They are brought into a cool room - a veranda, a glazed balcony. In this case, the flowering period will last. Chrysanthemums will delight the eye even in winter, until around January. In a warm room, they dry out rather quickly, losing their decorative effect.
• After the chrysanthemum has faded, the stems are cut and the pots are taken out for winter storage. Periodically inspect, checking if the clod of earth in the pot is dry.

For the southern regions, a scheme for growing chrysanthemums without digging is suitable. It is enough just to cut off the stems and cover the bushes with humus or earth. Sometimes they are covered with a cut part of the plant.

But this cannot be done if the plant is sick or has been affected by pests. In the spring, the shelter is removed.This must be done on time, during the snow melting period, otherwise the roots may rot.

The bush must be planted in several, one or more sprouts.

Pests and diseases

The main pest of chrysanthemum multiflora are aphids and spider mites. To prevent damage, plants are regularly watered. Chrysanthemum buds damage caterpillars and leafworms. You can fight them by treating with Aktara or the biological preparation Fitoverm.

To prevent fungal diseases, including powdery mildew, which can spoil the appearance of the plant, the bushes are treated with copper-containing preparations. To prevent root rot, Fitosporin is added to the water for irrigation.

More information can be found in the video:

Heading: Flowers | Chrysanthemum

Proper cultivation and care of chrysanthemum multiflora

A group of chrysanthemums called Multiflora was created for the autumn transformation of parks and squares. Perfect spherical shape, riot of colors and shapes - this is what makes this autumn garden novelty attractive for a private landscape.

Characteristics and description of Multiflora

Chrysanthemum breeding has a very long history, the flower was first mentioned by Confucius in the treatise "Spring and Autumn".

In the east, the flower was eaten, used for medicinal purposes, in perfumery, and only then began to use the decorative properties of the plant.

The Japanese showed a special attitude to the sunny flowerwho considered him royal. Only members of the imperial family could wear clothes with the image of chrysanthemums. The nature of Asia boasts 30 naturally occurring shrub species.

Multiflora was not bred for cutting, like many other large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums. This species is intended for decorating flower beds, has a sharply decorative ball shape, blooms from the end of August until the first snow.

Prefers a sunny, open place for planting, but no drafts. The roots of this plant should not be allowed to flood; avoid planting on swampy soils.

Chrysanthemum forms a healthy bush shape only in a sunny location. She is uncomfortable near trees, even in light partial shade. An oppressed plant will not be able to form a spectacular ball.

Features of the spherical chrysanthemum:

Varieties and varieties of border flower

All chrysanthemums can be conditionally divided into two groups:

• large-flowered (Indian);
• small-flowered (Korean).

Multiflora, a bright representative of the Korean chrysanthemum group, is represented by many interesting varieties, with flowers of various shapes and a wide range of colors.

Consider a few locally adapted cultivars.

Branfountain lemon

Delicate lemon, profusely blooming Branfountain Lemon cultivar forms a bush 50 cm high, flowering begins in early September.

Branfountain Lemon cultivar

Bransky plum

Bransky Plum cultivar muted red color - rather high, bush up to 70 cm. The variety can be interestingly beaten when creating multi-tiered garden compositions.

Bransky Plum cultivar

Branroyal yellow

Another high grade among spherical species - Branroyal yellow, which, during flowering, has absolutely no leaves behind the radiant yellow flowers and buds.

Branroyal Yellow variety

Branbeach orange

Branbeach Orange variety begins to bloom quite early, in mid-August; the height of the ball is 50 cm. The variety is attractive with a delicate orange color of the flower.

Branbeach Orange variety

Brandove white

Bicolor pom-shaped flower, light green with white, typical for Brandove White varieties, very good for creating compositions with brightly colored varieties.

Brandove White variety

Branchili

Undersized Branchili cultivar the color of hot pepper, forms a ball 40 cm high, the diameter of the flower is 4 cm.

Branchili variety

These are covering varieties that overwinter quite successfully.... In northern regions, it is safer to dig up the plant by storing it in a cool, dark place.

When planting, be sure to take into account the size of an adult bush, observe a distance between seedlings of at least 50 cm.

Preparation of undersized globular chrysanthemum for winter, storage in winter

Wintering on the ground

Multiflora is a southern plant, so it is imperative to cover the bushes for the winter. (for example, with your own dead wood), or dig up the rhizome, keeping it in the basement until spring.

To keep the curb flower outdoors (on the ground), in the fall, the bush is cut, shortening to 15 cm.In October, we mulch the space under the bush with peat, sawdust, garden humus. With a wide layer - 10 cm, do not regret it.

Cover the root system generously for the winter. And already in November, after the onset of the first cold weather, cover the plant with spruce branches, or with your own dead wood, turned upside down. You will get a ventilated pyramidal shelter.

Do not rush to cover the bushes too early to prevent diaper rash and rot. Also keep in mind that these flowers are very afraid of icing.

Dead wood chrysanthemums are an excellent covering material that will be useful to gardeners who do not have spruce branches.

How to keep in winter

The second option is safer, it is better to dig up valuable varieties for the winter... Before the winter period, we cut the bush to a height of 10 - 15 cm, put it in the cellar (underground). The plant will need to be watered every month.

Either we fill the pot with the plant with sawdust, or with light soil, slightly moisten the substrate. In winter, periodically check the condition of the bushes.

The main enemy of a dwarf flower when stored in a cellar is fungal diseases, rust and powdery mildew.

What to do with chrysanthemums in winter:

Features of growing and caring for a dwarf chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum is unpretentious, your attention and care in winter is important for it. At the end of February, the plant will start to grow, do not miss.

At this time, a flower pot needs move to a warmer room (on the veranda), where the temperature can be up to 15 ° C.

We take it out, activate watering, gradually accustom it to sunlight so that the plant does not get burned. In the spring (end of May), we calmly transfer flowers to flower beds for further cultivation.

In summer, plants are afraid of drought.... You need to water Multiflora every week, sometimes more often. Some growers, when digging in before watering, add banana peel to the soil, containing magnesium useful for the plant.

Excessive watering can also harm globular chrysanthemums, it provokes diseases. During the budding period (June - July), Multiflora will need abundant watering.

Plants need to be watered only at the root, sprinkling is not applied. During the flowering period, watering is stopped.

Planting and caring for chrysanthemums:

Divide the Multiflora rhizome every 2-3 years, otherwise the spectacular bush will gradually lose its decorative effect.

Do not get carried away with the introduction of nitrogenous fertilizers, this provokes the defeat of aphids. This is especially true for manure and garden humus.

We introduce organic fertilizers, nitrogen, phosphorus in small doses, in the early stages of the growing season, when the buds are just awakening. Phosphorus will help to strengthen the root system, nitrogen - stimulates vegetation.

Later, fertilizing is carried out with potash and magnesium fertilizers, which help the plant at the budding stage.

Take your time to cut chrysanthemums in autumn, the plant needs to form growth points for the next year. Wait for the flowers to dry. This means that the plant is ready for wintering.

Early pruning can affect the growth of dormant buds, which is harmful to the plant.

Reproduction, planting rules in the open field

For the reproduction of chrysanthemums, it is better not to cut off, but to break off the branches... Cuttings can be harvested until flowering.

Break off a twig into 2-3 internodes, remove the leaves and the top. Plant in wet sand under a jar, the cuttings will take root in about 2-3 weeks.

Small shoots can be cut in March (in a pill, or in a pot). At the end of April, young plants can be planted in the ground.

For the reproduction of chrysanthemums, it is better not to cut, but to break off the branches

Do not add mineral fertilizers when planting. By doing this, you stimulate active growth at the very moment when the plant needs rest.

Fertilizers are only needed when planting on poor sandy soils. Be sure to pinch the central sprout after 8 leaves.

If you bought an already blooming chrysanthemum in a pot, planting is carried out by the transshipment method, it is not worth pinching.Don't forget to pinch the sprout next year, in the spring.

When planting, a very effective drainage technique: Add eggshells to the hole. The calcium contained in it will support the growth of the bush during the first 2-3 months, will contribute to its adaptation in the garden, further active budding.

We breed, we propagate spherical chrysanthemums:

The blooming perfect ball is a perfect addition to the autumn landscape, will give a sunny mood to the whole family resting in the country.

The beauty Multiflora, the pride of the owner-grower, can successfully bloom in a container on a veranda or on a balcony.