Chrysanthemums large-flowered planting and care in the open field in autumn

From the middle of summer until the very frost, many homesteads, summer cottages and front gardens are decorated with bright bushes of garden chrysanthemums. The plant blooms even when many flowers have already withered after the first frost. Even the most experienced gardeners are amazed at the variety of flower colors, types and shapes. You can learn about the varieties and characteristics of growing the "Queen of Autumn" by reading our article. And photos of chrysanthemums will help you choose the types of flowers suitable for the garden.

Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums with photos

Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant, the height of which depends on the species and can be from 15 to 150 cm... Currently, a large number of varieties of chrysanthemums are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.

The size of the inflorescences

Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups according to the diameter of the flowers:

• small-flowered;
• mid-flowered;
• large-flowered.

Small-flowered or Korean plants can be simple and double. A large number of inflorescences grow on one bush with a flower diameter of 2-10 cm... The bushes themselves can reach a height of 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant are in the form of oak leaves. Flowers are frost-resistant, undemanding to the composition of the soil and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and continues until the very frost.

Mid-flowered or ornamental chrysanthemums can be grown not only for garden decoration, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can be used to decorate balconies, loggias and terraces.Ornamental shrubs grow up to 30-70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10-18 cm.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are spectacular tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm. They bloom in large flowers with a diameter of 10-25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost well. Only some of its varieties can winter outdoors. Such flowers are intended mainly for cutting into bouquets.

The shape and height of the bush

According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.

Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be very tall and require supports such as frames, metal nets, or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during the planting of the bushes. Plants planted in a group can be used as a hedge. Most popular varieties tall garden chrysanthemums are:

1. "Amber Lady" - the plant is distinguished by golden inflorescences.
2. "Umka" - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
3. "Daughter of Rosetta" is strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers of pink and white shades.

Medium-sized. Bushes growing up to 30-50 cm look very impressive both on a flower bed and along paths, fences, arbors. With their help, you can realize various design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are considered:

1. "Dawn" - the plant has a yellow-brown color, which is just right for the autumn mood.
2. "Dune" is a truly magical variety, the flowers of which can change their color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they turn yellow-gold.
3. "Lily" will help to add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson flowers.

Curb. Small plants grow up to only 30 cm. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Bushes of curb chrysanthemums have the shape of a ballcovered with small flowers. In this group, the most popular varieties:

1. "Barbara" is a plant with delicate lilac-purple flowers.
2. "Evening Lights" - the variety is distinguished by scarlet inflorescences that resemble a festive fireworks.
3. "Talisman" is strewn with bright beetroot-crimson flowers.

Flower shape

Garden chrysanthemums have five different kinds of flower shapes:

1. Pompom flowers are an assembly of tongues that are assembled into a ball that resembles a pompom.
2. Anemoid flowers consist of large petals, which are collected in one, two or three rows. The flowers themselves are small in size and very similar to anemone flowers.
3. Single-row and double-row inflorescences are bordered by flowers that look like tongues. In the center of such inflorescences, small tubular flowers grow. The border of flowers can be arranged in one or two rows.
4. Semi-double flowers consist of three rows of reeds that are arranged around a central flower.
5. Terry inflorescences are similar to semi-double ones, but their flowers are more lush, since they are diverse in appearance and shape.

Garden chrysanthemums - planting and care

It is recommended to plant a plant during the period from late May to mid-June... Until autumn, the bushes will have time to take root and get stronger. And then they will not be afraid of any winter frosts.

Landing features

Chrysanthemums love sunny areas. The plant requires a lot of light to set flower buds. Even in partial shade, chrysanthemums will not bloom.

The soil must be rich in organic matter. Therefore, during digging, one bucket of manure, compost or peat must be added to one square meter of soil. You don't need to add more organic matter, otherwise only leaves will grow rapidly on the bush, and the plant will bloom with very small flowers.

When planting a garden chrysanthemum, it is recommended:

1. For large bushes, the distance between the holes should be at least 50 cm, and for small bushes - 25 cm.
2. It is recommended to add drainage or sand to each hole.
3. When planting, the plant cannot be deeply deepened into the ground.
4. Near large, tall bushes, you must immediately install a support.
5. The leaves of the plant can be sprayed with Epin to help it adapt better. "Kornevin" is also suitable, with a solution of which the bush is watered.
6. If frosts are still expected, then the young bush should be covered with nonwoven material at night.

Care rules

When caring for a garden chrysanthemum, special attention should be paid to watering it, since the plant depends on soil moisture level... You need to water the bushes in a timely manner, otherwise the flower will throw off all the buds.

The amount of water for watering one bush depends on its characteristics. Plants with small, stiff leaves can be watered less frequently than bushes with soft, large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture.

Chrysanthemums respond well to feeding. For this, complex mineral fertilizers containing magnesium and potassium, and organic in the form of humates are used. During the active growth of green mass, the plant is fed with nitrogen.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums involves forming a bush. It is necessary regularly pinch and trim... For the first time, the top of the plant is removed when the central shoot grows to 10 cm. After a while, when the lateral shoots grow up to 10 cm, they also pinch the crown. After that, the bush grows to bloom.

During the period when the chrysanthemum blooms, faded and wilted buds should be regularly removed from its bush. This way the flowering period can be extended.

If you want to get big beautiful flowers, you can make a total pruning of side shoots. As a result, only one stalk and one peduncle will remain on the bush. All the forces of the plant will go to the formation and growth of the flower.

Winter garden chrysanthemum care

In order for a plant planted in the garden to bloom as beautifully and profusely next year, you need to make sure that it overwinters well.

In frosty winters even cold-resistant varieties require shelter... Therefore, after the end of flowering, the stems of the bushes are cut to the ground. The plant hides and covers itself with fallen leaves.

Chrysanthemums with large flowers are afraid of freezing temperatures. Therefore, they need to be dug out together with an earthen lump and planted in a suitable container. Plants are stored before planting in the spring in a room with a temperature of 0-5 degrees. Caring for them consists in rarely watering an earthen coma, which should not dry out.

Diseases and pests of perennial chrysanthemums

With proper care, the plant is rarely affected by pests and practically does not get sick. However, the bushes need to be inspected regularly in order to identify the problem as soon as possible and begin to treat the plant. The threat to garden chrysanthemums is posed by:

1. Spider mite is a pest that sucks juice from a plant. It can be found by the cobweb formations on the back of the sheet. If the leaves of a chrysanthemum turn gray-brown, begin to darken and fall off, then, most likely, a tick has settled on it. The plant must be treated with special chemicals.
2. Leaf nematodes - the disease is manifested by deformation of the leaves, and their darkening between the veins. In this case, you need to change the soil and cut off the damaged areas.
3. Verticillosis is an infectious disease that spreads through the roots. Therefore, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither from the bottom of the bush. In the initial stages, spraying with biological products will help.
4. Powdery mildew first affects the leaves and buds, on which a white bloom appears. The affected parts of the plant are removed, and the bush itself is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Reproduction of bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum can propagate in three ways:

• dividing the bush;
• seeds;
• by cuttings.

Dividing the bush

The bushes can be divided in the spring, but only after the threat of frost has passed. In order for chrysanthemums to bloom better, it is recommended to divide their bushes every three years.To do this, the plant is carefully dug up and divided into several small bushes. The roots of the plant will need to be cut. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered.

Seed reproduction

In open ground sowing is done in May... For each future plant, a separate hole is dug, the distance between which should be 25 cm. 3-4 seeds are buried in one hole. For the first time, chrysanthemums should bloom at the end of summer.

Cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is the easiest way, since chrysanthemums take root quickly and well.

1. A stalk with 3-4 leaves is cut under a leaf pattern. Its length should be 6-8 cm.
2. The container is filled first with peat, and then with sand, into which the stalk sits.
3. The soil is sprayed and the box is covered with glass.

The rooting temperature should be between 13-15 degrees. When the roots appear, the cuttings will need transplant into separate pots... Young bushes are planted in open ground only when frost has passed.

Observing the rules of planting and caring for garden chrysanthemums, you can achieve a beautiful and spectacular flowering during half of summer and almost all of autumn. Any part of the garden where the "Queen of Autumn" will grow will become a luxurious decoration of the garden.

Bush chrysanthemum

For a long time, chrysanthemums have attracted increased attention and delighted people. It is the leading flower crop for the withering autumn garden. A huge number of different varieties of chrysanthemums allows you to choose a plant for every taste.

Large chrysanthemums are especially good at cutting and are used to create colorful autumn compositions. Their huge multi-colored flowers on tall strong stems keep freshness in a vase for a long time. The late bloom and excellent decorative properties make these majestic flowers especially popular.

Chrysanthemums with small flowers usually finish flowering when the heavy frost sets in in October. And large-flowered chrysanthemums in greenhouses are not afraid of cold weather and continue to delight us with their beauty and bright colors. But not all of our readers have greenhouses, so they are interested in whether it is possible to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums in the open field in the middle lane and even in Siberia.

Yes it is possible. We will tell you how to do this in this article.

1. Video: How to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums
2. Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums in the garden
3. Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums
4. Chrysanthemum protection in autumn

Video: How to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums

Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums in the garden

Large-flowered chrysanthemums can be planted outdoors before they bloom. They need to be planted so that then the plants can be covered with foil and frames. This will allow you to grow gorgeous large chrysanthemums without replanting.

Transplanting negatively affects the quality of the flowers. Flowers from transplanted plants are 2-3 times less in a vase than flowers from non-transplanted bushes.

You can also plant chrysanthemums in large pots that dig completely into the soil in the garden. And in September, before the onset of frost, the pots are removed from the ground and transferred to a greenhouse or other room. At the same time, the root system of plants is not disturbed, so they bloom profusely and stand for longer in the cut.

Outdoor care for large-flowered chrysanthemums

In order to get beautiful large chrysanthemum flowers in the fall, in the summer, during their active growth, it is necessary to provide them with proper care, regular watering and feeding. In the beginning, young plants are often watered, being careful not to wet the leaves.

One of the most important nutrients for the development of large-flowered chrysanthemums is nitrogen. It significantly affects the height of the bush, the size and color of inflorescences and leaves. The more nitrogen in the soil, the taller and larger the plants will be, and the more intense the color.

However, a balance must be struck with other nutrients, especially phosphorus. Phosphorus accelerates flowering and increases disease resistance.

It is useful to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: mullein infusion, chicken droppings, vermicompost infusion or fermented grass.

Regularly inspect large-flowered chrysanthemums, remove dead leaves, as they can be affected by diseases and pests.

Cuttings planted in late April and May are grown without pinching. And plants planted in early spring or winter are pinched to avoid blooming too early. The first pinching is carried out after rooting at a height of 15 cm, the second - upon reaching 25 cm.

To obtain highly decorative large chrysanthemums, pinching and pinching are used - side shoots and buds are removed. Usually one shoot and one main bud are left.

Chrysanthemum protection in autumn

In autumn, large-flowered chrysanthemums should be covered with foil. It is also better to stretch the fabric under the film to protect against dripping condensation, which can spoil the decorative effect of some varieties. Water the plants in the greenhouse abundantly, avoiding water getting on the leaves.

Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums cannot winter outdoors in the harsh northern regions. Therefore, for the winter, the mother liquors need to be dug up and removed to storage.

After cutting the flowers, their mother liquors are cut off, leaving shoots 10 cm long. The plants are dug up and placed in deep boxes. The top of the box is sprinkled with wet peat and sand in equal proportions so that only the tops of the layers are visible.

The boxes can be left in the greenhouse or on the veranda until the cold weather, then when the soil dries up, they are removed for storage. A dark room with a temperature of about -1 to +5 degrees is suitable.

Klabukova Tatiana

author Nedyalkov S.F., photo by the author

Chrysanthemums are considered favorites of the withering autumn garden and are the leading flower culture of the late autumn and early winter periods. A large number of bred varieties of chrysanthemums allow you to choose plants for every taste.

Many flower growers around the world classify chrysanthemums as "hobby" plants and collect collections of these wonderful plants. They are especially sensitive to the culture of chrysanthemums in Japan. In Japanese culture, the art of making dolls from living chrysanthemums was even born.

Unpretentious garden chrysanthemums with small flowers usually finish flowering in October - with the onset of significant frosts. And large-flowered chrysanthemums under the cover of a greenhouse are not afraid of bad weather - they continue to delight with their beauty and freshness for a long time.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are good for cutting, they are widely used for composing autumn compositions. Huge flowers of various colors, beautiful foliage on strong tall stems, long-term preservation of freshness in a vase, a combination of high decorativeness of large-flowered chrysanthemums with late flowering - components of the constant and widespread popularity of these majestic and at the same time graceful plants.

Watering and feeding large-flowered chrysanthemums

During the period of active summer growth of chrysanthemums in order to obtain full-fledged flowers in the fall, the main task of caring for plants is watering andtimely provision of essential nutrients.
At the beginning of the growth of young chrysanthemums, they must be watered often, while the root system is not powerful enough. When watering chrysanthemums, I try not to wet the leaves.

The most important nutrient for the growth and development of beautiful chrysanthemums is nitrogen, which affects the height of plants, the color and size of their leaves and inflorescences. With increasing doses of nitrogen application to the soil, the height of chrysanthemums, the size of their leaves and the length of the petals, the diameter and doubleness of the inflorescences increase. Also, the color of the leaves and inflorescences of chrysanthemums fed with nitrogen becomes more intense, and the plants in general are more decorative.However, the positive effect of nitrogen on the development of chrysanthemums is observed only with its optimal ratio with other nutrients (mainly phosphorus).

With a lack of nitrogen, chrysanthemum bushes form weak, with pale green leaves and small irregular inflorescences; they bloom with a strong delay. With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, this nutrient is used by plants again (that is, the upper growing part of the shoots "takes" nitrogen from the lower part of the plant). Then the lightened lower leaves on the shoots of chrysanthemums indicate a lack of nitrogen in the substrate.

Excess nitrogen also affects plants negatively: chrysanthemums grow weak, their leaves become dark green, juicy and fragile; over-fertilized plants bloom too late.

Nitrogen is characterized by a narrow range of optimal doses, therefore, I must reintroduce it in the form of several additional dressings (especially during the main vegetative growth of chrysanthemums).
It is best to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: chicken droppings, fermented grass, mullein infusion, vermicompost infusion, etc.

The positive effect of nitrogen on chrysanthemums is manifested only with a sufficient amount of phosphorus, which is especially important during the period of inflorescence formation. Phosphorus accelerates the flowering of chrysanthemums and increases plant resistance to diseases. With a lack of phosphorus, there is a strong delay in the growth and development of chrysanthemum bushes: plants bloom late, have small inflorescences; the leaves become small, acquire a light green color, and lose their elasticity. In the case of a severe lack of phosphorus, the lower leaves of the shoots dry out.

Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums

During regular plant inspections dead leaves on chrysanthemum bushes must be removed in a timely manner, since they are primarily affected by pests and diseases. It mainly affects chrysanthemums with aphids (most often - the so-called "bloody" aphids). Sometimes Indian chrysanthemums in the garden are annoyed by sparrows.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums, propagated by cuttings in the second half of April and in May, I grow without pinching. And if the cuttings of chrysanthemums were planted early (in winter and early spring, in February-March), then I pinch such plants to avoid premature flowering. Each pinch delays the flowering of chrysanthemums for 2-3 weeks.
For the varieties of chrysanthemums "Gazelle" and "V. Tereshkova ”I do the pinching no more than two times. The first time I pinch a young plant after rooting, at a height of about 15 cm. The second time I pinch a plant shoot when it reaches a height of 25 cm. I then use the cut tops of chrysanthemum shoots for reproduction.

In developing large-flowered chrysanthemums, I usually leave one shoot and one central bud in order to obtain highly decorative, large inflorescences. Sometimes I leave 2-3 shoots on a powerful bush (in this case, smaller inflorescences are formed on them).

The main way to obtain large chrysanthemum inflorescences is the timely removal of emerging lateral shoots and buds - pinching and pinching... If they are removed late, the main peduncle in the upper part of the shoot grows thin, and the inflorescence becomes smaller, which reduces the decorative effect of the plant.
I remove the lateral buds of large-flowered chrysanthemums carefully and as early as possible (as soon as possible, grab the lateral buds with your fingers, so as not to damage the remaining main bud).
Since plants of the same variety often develop unevenly, their buds are not formed simultaneously, with a difference of 10-15 days. Therefore, during the budding period, in order to timely remove the lateral buds, it is necessary to check the condition of the chrysanthemums several times, every 3-4 days.

Planting and transplanting large-flowered chrysanthemums

Large-flowered chrysanthemums of the Gazelle and V.Tereshkova "I grow in the open field until they bloom. Therefore, I plant the plants in the garden in such a way that later blooming chrysanthemums can be covered with a film or frames from the weather. This allows you to get a high-quality cut of chrysanthemums directly from the open field, without replanting plants.
Transplantation of chrysanthemum bushes of the Gazelle variety noticeably affects the quality of the inflorescences. In addition, flowers from transplanted bushes cost 2-3 times less in cut than inflorescences from non-transplanted bushes.

Sometimes I plant chrysanthemums in large pots, which I dig completely into the soil of the garden. In August, I remove the pots with plants from the ground and transfer them to a room or a greenhouse. At the same time, the root system of potted chrysanthemums is not disturbed, they bloom and stand in the cut for much longer than "soil" plants.

Protecting large-flowered chrysanthemums in autumn

When I cover the large-flowered chrysanthemums blooming in the garden with a film in the fall from bad weather, I must also stretch the fabric over the plants (for this purpose, you can use a covering material of any brand). Otherwise, during the wind, when the film "flaps" under its gusts, then drops of condensate flying off the film will fall on the chrysanthemums. Large snow-white flowers of Gazelle chrysanthemums quickly lose their decorative effect and decay from water droplets hitting them, but Valentina Tereshkova chrysanthemums are not so afraid of dripping moisture.
At temperatures below +3 degrees, Gazelle chrysanthemums produce poor flower baskets, and the flowers begin to turn black. Therefore, I warm up the foil greenhouse with chrysanthemums in the freeze.
I water chrysanthemums abundantly in the greenhouse, but at the same time I try to keep the water out of the leaves.

Wintering of large-flowered chrysanthemums

Indian large-flowered chrysanthemums do not hibernate in the open field of regions with a cold climate, since they cannot withstand a long frosty winter. Therefore, you need to take care of their wintering: in the fall, the mother plants of large-flowered chrysanthemums have to be dug up and brought into storage for winter preservation.

If in the southern part of Belarus it is possible to leave large-flowered chrysanthemums for wintering in the open ground (but only with a very careful dry shelter), then in the central and northern parts of the republic it is very risky to do this. In the fall, I dig up the queen cells of chrysanthemums and store them in the winter at a positive temperature.

In order to preserve the existing highly decorative large-flowered chrysanthemums for further cultivation, I select the best plants during their flowering for mother plants.
High-quality mother plants have large flowers of the correct shape, beautiful leaves and a healthy look of the bushes in general; full-fledged plants form many strong cuttings.
The most valuable thing in the queen cells of chrysanthemums is the layers that have grown during the flowering of plants. ... In the future, these layers will be used for propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings.

Winter storage of large-flowered chrysanthemums is the most crucial moment of their cultivation, which requires very precise implementation of these instructions.

After cutting the flowers, I cut off the queen cells of chrysanthemums, leaving the lower part of the shoots up to 10 cm long. I dig out the plants and very tightly put the rhizomes in deep boxes. From above I pour into the box a slightly wet mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions (so that only the tops of the layers remain at the top).

I leave boxes with queen cells of chrysanthemums in the greenhouse or on the veranda until the cold, do not water. I put the plants for storage only after the soil in the box with mother liquors dries out significantly (the drier, the better).

Any room without constant lighting, with a temperature from -1 to +5 degrees, is suitable as a repository for large-flowered chrysanthemums. At this temperature, the rhizomes of chrysanthemums are preserved for sure, the plants do not start growing.Under such conditions, old roots of chrysanthemums do not take root during wintering, valuable cuttings are well preserved.

In winter, I do not water the queen cells of stored chrysanthemums in any case. If during the winter storage of the mother plants of chrysanthemums, the tops of their layers were eaten by rodents that managed to penetrate the storehouse (mice, rats), then there is no need to worry about damaged layers. They will not die from this, just then in the future the need to pinch the tops of the layers of chrysanthemums disappears.

Nedyalkov Stefan Fedorovich (Novopolotsk, Republic of Belarus) skyrider@tut.by
"Floriculture: Pleasure and Benefit"

All about chrysanthemum on the site

Flowers Olga Ravilova

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2017-06-14 Chrysanthemums are beautiful in any setting. Photo: Robin Carlson

Chrysanthemums are popular ornamental plants that bloom from August to November. Chrysanthemums give the autumn garden a special charm, when most of the flowers have already gone to the autumn-winter rest.

Chrysanthemums belong to the Astrovye family. Like asters, chrysanthemum is a perennial plant whose stem stiffens by the end of the season, becoming tough. The most common are Indian and Chinese chrysanthemums. Most varieties of chrysanthemums come from Indian chrysanthemums.

Of course, in our country, chrysanthemum grows as a summer plant, grown in seedlings in the garden, or in pots and greenhouses, as a houseplant. The warm climate of hot countries makes it possible to propagate chrysanthemums by simply dividing the bush, which means that most of the theses of the article are irrelevant for flower growers in Asia and the Far East.

Decorativeness is the fad of chrysanthemum, as well as flowering in autumn. Yes, the vast majority of varieties bloom in October-November.

Chrysanthemum varieties are usually divided into two large groups: large-flowered and small-flowered. More than 1000 varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums are known, they inspire flower growers more than chrysanthemums with small flowers.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are more popular than small-flowered ones. Photo: Presbyterian Senior Care

Basically, chrysanthemums are subdivided by the signs of the structure of inflorescences:

• Anemoid chrysanthemums;
• Decorative chrysanthemums;
• Chinese chrysanthemums;
• Single, simple chrysanthemums;
• Peony chrysanthemums;
• Pompom chrysanthemums;
• Tubular chrysanthemums;
• Japanese chrysanthemums.

Single chrysanthemums have flowers with non-double inflorescences, and the rest are double.

Chrysanthemums are a suitable material for landscape design

Varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums with white, pink, lilac, yellow, golden and bronze flowers are popular. Moreover, large-flowered chrysanthemums are grown in one stem, and small-flowered chrysanthemums are in the form of a bush or in a standard form.

Chrysanthemums even have decorative buds.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums derived from Chinese varieties are suitable for growing in the open field garden, as it is hardy enough to endure the winter.

Reproduction of chrysanthemumsChrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings. Photo: MissingHenryMitchell

To preserve all the hereditary characteristics of the parent plants, chrysanthemums are propagated vegetatively - by herbaceous cuttings.

Cuttings are cut from uterine chrysanthemums in February - March. Mother plants should overwinter at a temperature of +5 - 7 ° C. Healthy plants are selected for wintering, cutting off the stems at a height of 10-15 cm. Mothers overwinter in containers or pots of a suitable size. During wintering, the soil must be moistened occasionally.

Chrysanthemum cuttings continue until May, as the offspring grow on the queen cells. However, green cuttings of large-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums complete 20 April.

Before rooting, it is advisable to treat the slices of chrysanthemum cuttings with a growth stimulant. Photo: Views from the Garden

The cuttings are rooted in a peat-sand mixture or in sand, at a temperature of +12 - 14 ° C, for two to three weeks. When the chrysanthemum cuttings take root, they are transplanted into pots without drainage. The diameter of the pots is 7 cm.The soil should be light - a mixture of humus and sod land in equal proportions. The pots are placed in a bright, cool place.

Chrysanthemum cuttings take root in 2-3 weeks

The transfer of large-flowered chrysanthemums is done in May, in pots with drainage, with a diameter of 11 cm. A mixture of humus and sod land (1: 2), with the addition of shavings, is favorable for chrysanthemums during this period. Small-flowered chrysanthemums do not pass, leaving them in small pots before planting in open ground.

Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums in open groundLarge-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in open ground directly in pots. Photo: Fresh Design Pedia

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in open ground directly in pots, after having made a transfer into pots with a diameter of 12-14 cm, in late May - early June.

If chrysanthemums are intended for cutting into bouquets, then you can plant them in open ground without pots, tying the stems to pegs about a meter long. The length of the peg is adjusted depending on the variety.

It is advisable to plant chrysanthemums in ridges, in four rows, with a row spacing of 25 cm. The pots are installed in recesses so that the edges are flush with the ground.

Chrysanthemum care

Caring for chrysanthemums is simple: watering, loosening, weeding, feeding and pinching:

• Chrysanthemums watered dailyif there is no rain. It is advisable to spray the plants with soft water, humidifying the air. It is not worth overmoistening the soil - chrysanthemums wither from excess water, leaves turn yellow, inflorescences wrinkle and develop poorly.
• Chrysanthemum feeding is performed two or three times per season... Use mineral fertilizers for flowers or slurry, depending on availability. They are fed in the form of fertilizing irrigation, under the root.
• Weeding necessary both between plants and directly in pots. In parallel with weeding, the soil is loosened in the aisles and in pots.
• Chrysanthemums desirable tie to pegsas you grow.
• Plants are regularly inspected for pests. Aphids and spider mites, without pity, are destroyed with drugs - insecticides.
• Pinching the side shoots helps shape the plantChrysanthemum grazing - a responsible operation for the care of plants, performed in June - August. Axillary shoots and lateral buds, near the apical flower bud, are removed with scissors or a sharp knife. The first apical bud is removed in all cases before the first transfer, and the strongest of the new developing shoots is left. The axillary shoots are broken out or cut out with a sharp knife, and the buds growing adjacent to the apical flower bud are removed with a sharp stick.

Back to the greenhouses

As the buds of chrysanthemums develop, when they begin to acquire color, the plants are transferred to greenhouses or greenhouses. Pots, before entering the greenhouse, are cleaned of soil, and plants from dried leaves.

Chrysanthemums of late varieties are transferred to greenhouses in September, due to autumn matinees, with unopened buds.

Greenhouses and greenhouses should be light and well ventilated to ensure abundant flowering. Moisture trapped in the opening buds of chrysanthemums in cold weather, both in open and closed ground, leads to decay.

Dampness and drops in greenhouses are also harmful to chrysanthemum buds, so the buds do their best to prevent moisture from entering.

If autumn is early, and the buds are poorly developed, the plants are installed in deep cleaned greenhouses, covering them with frames. During the day, greenhouses are well ventilated, and on warm days, the frames are removed.

Growing small-flowered chrysanthemumsSmall-flowered chrysanthemums will decorate any fence

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in open ground at the end of May. The distance between plants is 40 - 50 cm.

Caring for small-flowered chrysanthemums is similar to caring for large-flowered plants, with the exception of pinching and a garter to the pegs.

It is advisable to pinch the shoots once or twice a summer so that the plants branch out better.In the second half of August, as soon as a sufficient number of buds are formed, the plants are planted in 16-18 cm pots and set in deep greenhouses.

In the process of growing chrysanthemums, you have to protect them from pests and diseases. Chrysanthemums are harmed by: thrips, green and black aphids, nematodes. Chrysanthemums get sick with rust and powdery mildew. The greatest damage to chrysanthemums is caused by nematodes.

If nematodes attacked your chrysanthemums, then only quarantine and thorough disinfection of pots and growing areas: ridges, greenhouses, hotbeds, etc. will save you. The rest of the pests and diseases are eliminated in the working order.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in open ground at the end of May. The distance between plants is 40 - 50 cm.

Caring for small-flowered chrysanthemums is similar to caring for large-flowered plants, with the exception of pinching and a garter to the pegs.

It is advisable to pinch the shoots once or twice a summer so that the plants branch out better. In the second half of August, as soon as a sufficient number of buds are formed, the plants are planted in 16-18 cm pots and set in deep greenhouses.

In the process of growing chrysanthemums, you have to protect them from pests and diseases. Chrysanthemums are harmed by: thrips, green and black aphids, nematodes. Chrysanthemums are sick with rust and powdery mildew. The greatest damage to chrysanthemums is caused by nematodes.

If nematodes attacked your chrysanthemums, then only quarantine and thorough disinfection of pots and growing areas: ridges, greenhouses, hotbeds, etc. will save you. The rest of the pests and diseases are eliminated in the working order.

Garden chrysanthemum can rightfully be called one of the most beautiful autumn perennials, blooming until the frost and possessing a unique tart aroma. This beautiful flower brings a lot of light joy in the dark days of autumn. However, many summer residents in vain think that in the middle lane it can be grown only as an annual or indoor container plant. Next, you will learn about all the methods of reproduction, timing, rules for planting and caring for bush garden chrysanthemums in the open field.

Varieties and varieties of chrysanthemums

Conventionally, all chrysanthemums can be divided into 2 types:

As a rule, perennial Korean varieties that winter well (but better with additional shelter) are planted and grown in our gardens. And the most popular are spherical garden chrysanthemums (multiflora).

Large-flowered varieties are most commonly used for commercial purposes, i.e. for cutting and making bouquets, because they need warmer conditions, clearly not in the middle zone or the Urals and Siberia, where they simply freeze out.

Video: types and varieties of chrysanthemums

Videos: Indian and Korean

Breeding methods for chrysanthemums

Basically, garden chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing the bush or by cuttings, in other words, by vegetative methods. But often it is also grown from seeds.

By the way! Large-flowered and small-flowered (Korean) species reproduce identically.

Sowing seeds

Perennial chrysanthemums can be sown with seeds, but varietal characteristics will not be preserved when collecting planting material and re-sowing it. If you nevertheless decide to buy seeds, then it is better to first sow them for seedlings (in February-March), dive in the phase of two true leaves, and when the threat of return frosts has passed, plant them in the ground (or a pot). And then by the fall you will be able to get flowering bushes. Alternatively, you can try open field direct sowing in May-June.

Video: how to grow chrysanthemum seedlings from seeds

Dividing the bush

Once every 2-3 years, the root system of the garden chrysanthemum grows excessively, begins to degenerate, the flowers become smaller, so the plant should be rejuvenated, that is, divided.

Dividing the plant is quite simple: you need to carefully dig up the bushes and divide them into several copies (with your hands, pruning shears or even a shovel).Then place them in separate holes and shade them with a non-woven material from the sun (stick 4 sticks and throw a cover over them) so that they do not get burnt while they are being taken.

Video: transplanting chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

Cuttings

It is convenient to cut chrysanthemums during autumn pruning. To do this, you will need to cut, or better break off, 5-8 centimeter shoots (the flowers themselves must be cut off, and only a couple of leaves should be left), which can be rooted either in a glass of water or in a common container in a special substrate (from peat and sand or in a mixture of perlite with the same peat) and cover with a plastic bag to create a greenhouse effect.

When the plant has roots (after 2-3 weeks), they should be planted in separate containers. In winter, young seedlings should be kept in a cool place (+4 .. + 6 degrees) and do not forget to water if necessary. When planting cuttings in spring, it is advisable to shade them for the first time (2 weeks), for example, by making a canopy of spunbond.

Video: cuttings of chrysanthemums in the fall

Video: cuttings in spring

Advice! You can also cut chrysanthemums from the presented bouquet.

Video: how to root chrysanthemums from a bouquet - cuttings and the result

Planting dates for chrysanthemums

Depending on the method of reproduction, the timing differs when it is better to sow, transplant (divide) or cut chrysanthemums.

So,sow seeds chrysanthemums for seedlings optimally in early spring (even in February-March), or in open ground in May, when the ground warms up enough (but then flowering should be expected only next year).

Cut chrysanthemum bushes most convenient in autumn during regular pruning, but keeping them in winter is difficult enough, and they often die, therefore better do it all the same in the spring, survival rate in this case is much higher.

Dividing the bush and the transplant of chrysanthemums can be carried out both in the second half of spring, when the threat of age-related frosts has passed (in April-May), and in late summer - early autumn (in August-September), so that the bushes have time to take root in a new place before the cold snap.

How to plant chrysanthemums outdoors

In order to eliminate all problems with the growth and development of perennial garden chrysanthemums in the open field, you need to remember about choosing a suitable place, as well as soil for planting.

Landing place

To successfully grow chrysanthemums in the garden, it is very important to stay in the right place to plant. If possible, this should be the sunniest area in the country. The plant does not like constant drafts, but it does not like stagnant air either, so the place should be ventilated. It is optimal to choose more or less elevated areas, hills, slopes, since it is impossible to allow the root system to be constantly flooded with water.

Garden perennial chrysanthemum is ideal for creating living borders, that is, for decorating garden paths, as well as creating beautiful compositions around the house.

The soil

This flowering perennial will grow smoothly in loose (moisture-permeable) and fertile soil. In terms of acidity, the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. The optimal soil for planting garden chrysanthemums is well-drained loamy or sandy loamy soil.

If the soil is sandy, then the planting site should be well dug up and filled with compost or humus.

If your soil is heavy, moisture passes poorly (and its stagnation has a very negative effect on perennials), then you should make good drainage by pouring some sand on the bottom.

Direct landing

So you bought a bush (a seedling in a bag with soil) of garden chrysanthemum in the fall (or divided the mother bush, germinated cuttings), chose a suitable day (preferably cloudy), or early morning or late evening. It's time to plant him.

Step-by-step instructions for planting chrysanthemums in open ground:

1. Decide on a place, prepare a landing hole (usually 30-40 cm deep).
2. Drain as needed (put some sand on the bottom of the hole).
3. Place the bush, straighten the roots.
4. Cover with fertile soil and compact well so that the roots are in good contact with the ground.
5. Trim the bush 1/3 or even leave a small stump. Now it is important that the roots take root.
6. Water liberally.
7. Mulch with peat or humus.

Important! If you are planting several bushes at once, then the distance between them should be about 30-50 centimeters. Remember that the bushes are very overgrown.

Video: a method of planting chrysanthemums in the fall

Outdoor chrysanthemum care

Chrysanthemum can hardly be called an unpretentious plant, on the contrary, it requires constant care. Therefore, in order to get beautiful bushes, these perennial flowers must be watered, fed, shaped (cut and cut), transplanted and propagated (divided and cut) and covered for the winter.

Important! And tall, as a rule, large-flowered (but small-flowered chrysanthemums are also tall) chrysanthemums must also be tied to pegs so that they do not lie down or, even worse, do not break off.

Watering

The plant can be called moisture-loving, but it should not be waterlogged (in spring, natural moisture, as a rule, will be enough for it).

Advice! After planting (planting a rooted cuttings) or transplanting (dividing) chrysanthemums in the spring, young seedlings should be periodically watered moderately.

At the height of summer (June-July), a garden perennial requires abundant watering, since the process of bud formation occurs during this period. As soon as flowering begins (usually in August), watering should be reduced. With a lack of moisture, the stems of the plant will become woody and stop branching.

Important! Chrysanthemums must be watered exclusively at the root. Sprinkling the crown is prohibited. Of course, if possible, it is advisable to use rainwater or settled water, and loosen it after each watering so that a dry crust does not form.

Top dressing

Chrysanthemums are fed according to the standard scheme:

1. In early spring, nitrogen fertilizers are used to start the growth of green mass (for example, an infusion of mullein in a ratio of 1 to 10 or chicken droppings (1 to 15).
2. In summer, during budding with potassium-phosphorus (more potassium) fertilizers - for a more intense and lush flowering (for example, wood ash).
3. In autumn - phosphorus-potassium (more phosphorus). Phosphorus has a good effect on strengthening the root system, which is necessary during the preparation of the plant for wintering.

There are special complex fertilizers for chrysanthemums for the entire growing season.

And if you stillgrow roses, then this fertilizer will come in handy.

Note! Top dressing must be carried out exclusively after watering and only at the root, in no case falling on the leaves, otherwise the fertilizer can cause them burns.

Shaping, cutting and trimming

If you want to get spherical bushes of chrysanthemums, then they should do such a haircut in the spring. It is recommended to pinch the top (main shoot) every year after 5-6 leaves, when it reaches 10-12 centimeters. Likewise, the side shoots should be shortened. All these activities should be performed before budding begins.

By the way! Chrysanthemum multiflora grows independently in the form of a ball. It should only be pinched once, when 2 pairs of leaves appear on the shoots, then it will form itself.

If you are growing large-flowered chrysanthemums for cutting (for bouquets), then you should leave 2-3 stems on which large buds and inflorescences will appear. It is also important not to forget to pinch them, timely removing the shoots that appear from the leaf axils.

Video: the formation of a large-flowered chrysanthemum bush for sale

For the winter, in the small-flowered (Korean) variety, of course, the entire upper part is cut off and a small stump is left (about 10 centimeters).

Preparing for winter

Some growers are afraid that even their small-flowered chrysanthemum can freeze out in winter, therefore, in mid-autumn (October), the trunk circle should be covered with a thick 10 cm layer of peat or compost, and already at the end of autumn (November), cover the plant, for example, with spunbond or dry leaves, you can use hay, or even better spruce branches.

Note! It makes no sense to insulate and cover large-flowered chrysanthemums, since they do not hibernate in the open field. They need to be dug up and transferred to storage prior to spring disembarkation.

At the same time, Korean specimens can also simply be transplanted into pots and transferred to the basement or veranda for wintering, or you can also dig in a polycarbonate greenhouse at soil level and additionally cover them.

By the way! Read in detail about the autumn care of chrysanthemums, their preparation for winter (shelter and digging-storage)in this article.

Video: how to keep chrysanthemums in winter: the right shelter

Diseases and pests

One of the most common troubles that occurs with a chrysanthemum is the first appearance white bloom, and then altogether blackening and dying off of its leaves. All this indicates a disease of a garden perennialpowdery mildew... Frequent rains and, as a result, waterlogging, thickened plantings, temperature fluctuations are the most favorable environment for the development of this disease. To restore the plant to its former beauty, it should be sprayed a couple of times with preparations containing copper in its base (for example, copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid).

Often attacks chrysanthemums aphids and thrips, in this case, you will need to treat garden perennials with one of the special insecticidal preparations, for example, "Aktara" or "Fitoverm".

Video: spherical chrysanthemums - planting, care and shelter

If you are nevertheless imbued with the idea of ​​planting and growing a bush garden perennial chrysanthemum in your summer cottage, focus on the features of care and its reproduction. And then you can amaze all your neighbors with the splendor of an autumn flower.

Video: features of the care and reproduction of bush chrysanthemums

The main autumn flowers are chrysanthemums, planting and caring for these flowers in the open field is not particularly difficult, but they require compliance with a number of conditions when growing, both in spring and autumn. Do not break the rules if you want to plant a flower from a bouquet or root a shoot, but to propagate a plant in the fall, check out the main points. If you do not know how to form a beautiful bush with a ball, then remember, you need a pinch and pruning for the winter, or try to grow a special variety that will only need a single pinching ...

Methods and timing of reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are annual - they are grown annually from seeds, and perennial - they can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, mother plants or by dividing a bush. Chrysanthemums are planted in spring and autumn, each season has its own advantages:

1. Seeds sown in open ground in May, and when the seedlings grow by 10 cm, they are pinched. In the fall, chrysanthemums are already blooming
2. Cuttings Is a very popular breeding method for chrysanthemums. You can grow a bush by cutting off a stalk even from a bouquet. How to root a chrysanthemum shoot? A shoot about 6 cm long is rooted in a soil consisting of sand and peat. The box covered with glass is kept in a cool place, not higher than + 15 ° C. When the roots appear, the plants are planted in separate pots and then, with the end of the frost, in the open ground. If you purchased a cuttings of the desired variety in the fall, do not plant it in the ground, but root it in a container and leave it in a cool room until spring
3. Uterus - this is the overwintered rhizome of chrysanthemum, from which shoots will go, it can be purchased and planted in early spring
4. Dividing the bush - the only way to plant chrysanthemums in autumn, in which the plant is carefully dug up, the roots of the mother bush with shoots are divided into several copies with pruning shears and planted. This procedure is supposed to be carried out every two years to rejuvenate the plant.

Chrysanthemums, planting in spring and autumn

Please note that if you decide to grow chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field differ in spring and autumn - with spring planting, mother plants and cuttings take root better, but in autumn you can choose a flowering bush and not be mistaken with its appearance.

In very frosty winters, choose Korean small-flowered hybrids of chrysanthemums, which are nicknamed the oak - this species unites many varieties zoned in the middle lane and the Moscow region. Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums are tall - they grow up to a meter, and sometimes up to one and a half, but they are afraid of cold weather and easily freeze out.

For chrysanthemums, choose a sunny, preferably elevated place. Flowers do not like stagnant moisture, therefore, the waterlogged soil is drained by adding a layer of coarse river sand to the planting hole. The soil is preferable slightly acidic or neutral, light and loose. Too dense - mixed with peat, humus or rotted compost.

Chrysanthemum plants are placed every 30-50 cm.The pit is dug shallow so that the shoots on the mother liquor or two-thirds of the cuttings are not covered with earth, when dividing the bush - this is about 40 cm.No more than 0.5 kg of humus or compost is added to the hole. If you overdo it with fertilizers, the flowers will be small, and only foliage will be lush. It is recommended to water the roots with a stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin), and then cover it with soil and compact it. After spring planting, it is advisable to cover the cuttings from the sun with a spunbond for a couple of weeks.

When planting in autumn, the chrysanthemum bush must be watered abundantly, this will compact the soil, eliminating voids in it, because of which the roots can freeze. In addition, the flowers are cut and a third of the stems are left for the nutrients to go into the development of the root system.

Chrysanthemums, care - watering, feeding, pruning, shelter

Chrysanthemum cannot stand moisture stagnation, but loves watering - without water, the stems become tough, the flowers become smaller. At the same time, the flower does not tolerate sprinkling, it must be watered at the root, preferably with rain or settled water. After watering, the soil is loosened to avoid crusting.

In spring, for chrysanthemums, nitrogen fertilization is necessary for rapid growth; it can be carried out 2-3 weeks after planting. In the second half of summer, with the beginning of budding of chrysanthemums, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to ensure lush flowering and strengthening of plants before wintering. In the fall, you can feed the flowers a little with organic matter. Tall varieties are tied up, as their fragile stems can break.

The onset of frost is a signal that it is time to leave for the winter. The trunks of chrysanthemums are cut in late autumn, leaving 10-centimeter stumps and insulated with sawdust or foliage. The most delicate varieties are wrapped on top with a covering material and something flat is placed on top to protect it from moisture - for example, a plywood board. Some growers dig up the roots and store them in a dark, cold cellar in winter to make sure the variety is preserved.

How to create globular chrysanthemum bushes

For flowers such as chrysanthemums, planting and care in the open field is not all that is needed and simple processing will allow you to create real masterpieces from them.

Chrysanthemums after winter are pruned and pinched to get a beautiful spherical bush. There is a variety in which the bush itself grows in the form of a ball, without needing to be formed - this is chrysanthemum multiflora, a low-growing bush up to 20 cm in height - when two pairs of leaves appear on the shoot, it is pinched, and then the ball forms itself.

Multiflora can be grown not only in a flower bed, but also in a pot. But, at the end of flowering, the aerial part of the plant is cut off and sent to rest - in a dark, cool place, for the whole winter. Periodically dormant chrysanthemums are watered so that the roots do not dry out. In February, the first shoots appear, which means that the plant has woken up, and it is time to get it out of the basement. If a spherical chrysanthemum grows in a flower bed, the stems should be cut to 10 cm and covered with sawdust and non-woven fabric for the winter.

Multiflora loves soil rich in fertilizers, add more humus and wood ash to the hole when planting. If you grow it in a pot, you can prepare the soil from 30% humus and 20% sand, the remaining 50% is sod land.

You can also form a ball from other types of chrysanthemums, in small and medium-flowered ones, the main shoot is pinched when it reaches 10-12 cm, then the lateral shoots that have grown to the same length are cut off, they then actively branch, the pinch is done until the buds appear.

In large-flowered species of chrysanthemums, stems 15 cm long are cut, in total one or two pinches are carried out no later than June, in addition, they are stepchildren - from mid-July, shoots that appear from the leaf axils are removed daily, and starting from August - every three days, then you can get a spherical bush with large flowers up to 10 cm in diameter.

From mid-summer until the very frost, many homesteads, summer cottages and front gardens are decorated with bright bushes of garden chrysanthemums. The plant blooms even when many flowers have already withered after the first frost. Even the most experienced gardeners are amazed at the variety of flower colors, types and shapes. You can learn about the varieties and characteristics of growing the "Queen of Autumn" by reading our article. And photos of chrysanthemums will help you choose the types of flowers suitable for the garden.

Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums with photos

Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant whose height depends on the species and can be from 15 to 150 cm... Currently, a large number of varieties of chrysanthemums are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.

The size of the inflorescences

Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups according to the diameter of the flowers:

• small-flowered;
• mid-flowered;
• large-flowered.

Small-flowered or Korean plants can be simple and double. A large number of inflorescences grow on one bush with a flower diameter of 2-10 cm... The bushes themselves can reach a height of 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant are in the form of oak leaves. Flowers are frost-resistant, undemanding to the composition of the soil and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and continues until the very frost.

Mid-flowered or ornamental chrysanthemums can be grown not only for garden decoration, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can be used to decorate balconies, loggias and terraces. Ornamental shrubs grow up to 30-70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10-18 cm.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are spectacular tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm. They bloom in large flowers with a diameter of 10-25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost well. Only some of its varieties can winter outdoors. Such flowers are intended mainly for cutting into bouquets.

The shape and height of the bush

According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.

Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be very tall and require supports such as frames, metal nets, or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during the planting of the bushes. Plants planted in a group can be used as a hedge. Most popular varieties tall garden chrysanthemums are:

1. "Amber Lady" - the plant is distinguished by golden inflorescences.
2. "Umka" - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
3. "Daughter of Rosetta" is strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers of pink and white shades.

Medium-sized. Bushes growing up to 30-50 cm look very impressive both on a flower bed and along paths, fences, arbors. With their help, you can realize various design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are considered:

1. "Dawn" - the plant has a yellow-brown color, which is just right for the autumn mood.
2. "Dune" is a truly magical variety, the flowers of which can change their color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they turn yellow-gold.
3. "Lily" will help to add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson flowers.

Curb. Small plants grow up to only 30 cm. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Bushes of curb chrysanthemums have the shape of a ballcovered with small flowers. In this group, the most popular varieties:

1. "Barbara" is a plant with delicate lilac-purple flowers.
2. "Evening Lights" - the variety is distinguished by scarlet inflorescences that resemble a festive fireworks.
3. "Talisman" is strewn with bright beetroot-crimson flowers.

Flower shape

Garden chrysanthemums have five different kinds of flower shapes:

1. Pompom flowers are an assembly of tongues that are assembled into a ball that resembles a pompom.
2. Anemoid flowers consist of large petals, which are collected in one, two or three rows. The flowers themselves are small in size and very similar to anemone flowers.
3. Single-row and double-row inflorescences are bordered by flowers that look like tongues. In the center of such inflorescences, small tubular flowers grow. The border of flowers can be arranged in one or two rows.
4. Semi-double flowers consist of three rows of reeds that are arranged around a central flower.
5. Terry inflorescences are similar to semi-double ones, but their flowers are more luxuriant, since they are diverse in appearance and shape.

Garden chrysanthemums - planting and care

It is recommended to plant a plant during the period from late May to mid-June... Until autumn, the bushes will have time to take root and get stronger. And then they will not be afraid of any winter frosts.

Landing features

Chrysanthemums love sunny areas. The plant requires a lot of light to set flower buds. Even in partial shade, chrysanthemums will not bloom.

The soil must be rich in organic matter. Therefore, during digging, one bucket of manure, compost or peat must be added to one square meter of soil. You don't need to add more organic matter, otherwise only leaves will grow rapidly on the bush, and the plant will bloom with very small flowers.

When planting a garden chrysanthemum, it is recommended:

1. For large bushes, the distance between the holes must be at least 50 cm, and for small bushes - 25 cm.
2. It is recommended to add drainage or sand to each hole.
3. When planting, the plant cannot be deepened deeply into the ground.
4. Near large, tall bushes, you must immediately install a support.
5. The leaves of the plant can be sprayed with Epin to help it adapt better. "Kornevin" is also suitable, with a solution of which the bush is watered.
6. If frosts are still expected, then the young bush should be covered with non-woven material at night.

Care rules

When caring for a garden chrysanthemum, special attention should be paid to watering it, since the plant depends on soil moisture level... You need to water the bushes in a timely manner, otherwise the flower will throw off all the buds.

The amount of water for watering one bush depends on its characteristics. Plants with small, stiff leaves can be watered less frequently than plants with soft, large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture.

Chrysanthemums respond well to feeding. For this, complex mineral fertilizers containing magnesium and potassium, and organic in the form of humates are used.During the active growth of green mass, the plant is fed with nitrogen.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums involves forming a bush. It is necessary regularly pinch and trim... For the first time, the top of the plant is removed when the central shoot grows to 10 cm. After a while, when the lateral shoots grow up to 10 cm, they also pinch the crown. After that, the bush grows to bloom.

During the period when the chrysanthemum blooms, faded and wilted buds should be regularly removed from its bush. This way the flowering period can be extended.

If you want to get large beautiful flowers, you can make a total pruning of side shoots. As a result, only one stalk and one peduncle will remain on the bush. All the forces of the plant will go to the formation and growth of the flower.

Winter garden chrysanthemum care

In order for a plant planted in the garden to bloom as beautifully and profusely next year, you need to make sure that it overwinters well.

In frosty winters even cold-resistant varieties require shelter... Therefore, after the end of flowering, the stems of the bushes are cut to the ground. The plant is huddled and covered with fallen leaves.

Chrysanthemums with large flowers are afraid of freezing temperatures. Therefore, they need to be dug out together with an earthen lump and planted in a suitable container. Plants are stored before planting in the spring in a room with a temperature of 0-5 degrees. Caring for them consists in rarely watering an earthen coma, which should not dry out.

Diseases and pests of perennial chrysanthemums

With proper care, the plant is rarely affected by pests and practically does not get sick. However, the bushes need to be inspected regularly in order to identify the problem as soon as possible and begin to treat the plant. The threat to garden chrysanthemums is posed by:

1. Spider mite is a pest that sucks juice from a plant. It can be found by the cobweb formations on the back of the sheet. If the leaves of the chrysanthemum turn gray-brown, begin to darken and fall off, then, most likely, a tick has settled on it. The plant must be treated with special chemicals.
2. Leaf nematodes - the disease is manifested by deformation of the leaves, and their darkening between the veins. In this case, you need to change the soil and cut off the damaged areas.
3. Verticillosis is an infectious disease that spreads through the roots. Therefore, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither from the bottom of the bush. In the initial stages, spraying with biological products will help.
4. Powdery mildew first affects the leaves and buds, on which a white bloom appears. The affected parts of the plant are removed, and the bush itself is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Reproduction of bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum can propagate in three ways:

• dividing the bush;
• seeds;
• by cuttings.

Dividing the bush

The bushes can be divided in the spring, but only after the threat of frost has passed. In order for chrysanthemums to bloom better, it is recommended to divide their bushes every three years. To do this, the plant is carefully dug up and divided into several small bushes. The roots of the plant will need to be cut. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered.

Seed reproduction

In open ground sowing is done in May... For each future plant, a separate hole is dug, the distance between which should be 25 cm. 3-4 seeds are buried in one hole. For the first time, chrysanthemums should bloom at the end of summer.

Cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is the easiest way, since chrysanthemums take root quickly and well.

1. A stalk with 3-4 leaves is cut under a leaf pattern. Its length should be 6-8 cm.
2. The container is filled first with peat, and then with sand, into which the stalk sits.
3. The soil is sprayed and the box is covered with glass.

The rooting temperature should be between 13-15 degrees. When the roots appear, the cuttings will need transplant into separate pots... Young bushes are planted in open ground only when frost has passed.

Observing the rules of planting and caring for garden chrysanthemums, you can achieve a beautiful and spectacular flowering during half summer and almost all autumn. Any part of the garden where the "Queen of Autumn" will grow will become a luxurious decoration of the garden.

Bush chrysanthemum

For a long time, chrysanthemums have attracted increased attention and delighted people. It is the leading flower crop for the withering autumn garden. A huge number of different varieties of chrysanthemums allows you to choose a plant for every taste.

Large chrysanthemums are especially good at cutting and are used to create colorful autumn compositions. Their huge multi-colored flowers on tall, strong stems keep fresh in a vase for a long time. The late bloom and excellent decorative properties make these majestic flowers especially popular.

Chrysanthemums with small flowers usually finish flowering when the heavy frost sets in in October. And large-flowered chrysanthemums in greenhouses are not afraid of cold weather and continue to delight us with their beauty and bright colors. But not all of our readers have greenhouses, so they are interested in whether it is possible to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums in the open field in the middle lane and even in Siberia.

Yes it is possible. We will tell you how to do this in this article.

1. Video: How to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums
2. Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums in the garden
3. Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums
4. Chrysanthemum protection in autumn

Video: How to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums

Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums in the garden

Large-flowered chrysanthemums can be planted outdoors before they bloom. They need to be planted so that then the plants can be covered with foil and frames. This will allow you to grow gorgeous large chrysanthemums without replanting.

Transplanting negatively affects the quality of the flowers. Flowers from transplanted plants are 2-3 times less in a vase than flowers from non-transplanted bushes.

You can also plant chrysanthemums in large pots that dig completely into the soil in the garden. And in September, before the onset of frost, the pots are removed from the ground and transferred to a greenhouse or other room. At the same time, the root system of plants is not disturbed, so they bloom profusely and stay cut longer.

Outdoor care for large-flowered chrysanthemums

In order to get beautiful large chrysanthemum flowers in the fall, in the summer, during their active growth, it is necessary to provide them with proper care, regular watering and feeding. In the beginning, young plants are often watered, being careful not to wet the leaves.

One of the most important nutrients for the development of large-flowered chrysanthemums is nitrogen. It significantly affects the height of the bush, the size and color of inflorescences and leaves. The more nitrogen in the soil, the taller and larger the plants will be, and the more intense the color.

However, there must be a balance with other nutrients, especially phosphorus. Phosphorus accelerates flowering and increases disease resistance.

It is useful to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: mullein infusion, chicken droppings, vermicompost infusion or fermented grass.

Regularly inspect large-flowered chrysanthemums, remove dead leaves, as they can be affected by diseases and pests.

Cuttings planted in late April and May are grown without pinching. And plants planted in early spring or winter are pinched to avoid blooming too early. The first pinching is carried out after rooting at a height of 15 cm, the second - upon reaching 25 cm.

To obtain highly decorative large chrysanthemums, pinching and pinching are used - side shoots and buds are removed. Usually one shoot and one main bud are left.

Chrysanthemum protection in autumn

In autumn, large-flowered chrysanthemums should be covered with foil.It is also better to stretch the fabric under the film to protect against dripping condensation, which can spoil the decorative effect of some varieties. Water the plants in the greenhouse abundantly, avoiding water getting on the leaves.

Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums cannot winter outdoors in the harsh northern regions. Therefore, for the winter, the mother liquors need to be dug up and removed to storage.

After cutting the flowers, their mother liquors are cut off, leaving shoots 10 cm long. The plants are dug up and placed in deep boxes. The top of the box is sprinkled with wet peat and sand in equal proportions so that only the tops of the layers are visible.

The boxes can be left in the greenhouse or on the veranda until the cold weather, then when the soil dries up, they are removed for storage. A dark room with a temperature of about -1 to +5 degrees is suitable.

Klabukova Tatiana

author Nedyalkov S.F., photo by the author

Chrysanthemums are considered favorites of the withering autumn garden and are the leading flower culture of the late autumn and early winter periods. A large number of bred varieties of chrysanthemums allow you to choose plants for every taste.

Many flower growers around the world classify chrysanthemums as "hobby" plants and collect collections of these wonderful plants. They are especially sensitive to the culture of chrysanthemums in Japan. In Japanese culture, the art of making dolls from living chrysanthemums was even born.

Unpretentious garden chrysanthemums with small flowers usually finish flowering in October - with the onset of significant frosts. And large-flowered chrysanthemums under the cover of a greenhouse are not afraid of bad weather - they continue to delight with their beauty and freshness for a long time.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are good for cutting, they are widely used for composing autumn compositions. Huge flowers of various colors, beautiful foliage on strong tall stems, long-term preservation of freshness in a vase, a combination of high decorativeness of large-flowered chrysanthemums with late flowering - components of the constant and widespread popularity of these majestic and at the same time graceful plants.

Watering and feeding large-flowered chrysanthemums

During the period of active summer growth of chrysanthemums in order to obtain full-fledged flowers in the fall, the main task of caring for plants is watering andtimely provision of essential nutrients.
At the beginning of the growth of young chrysanthemums, they must be watered often, while the root system is not powerful enough. When watering chrysanthemums, I try not to wet the leaves.

The most important nutrient for the growth and development of beautiful chrysanthemums is nitrogen, which affects the height of plants, the color and size of their leaves and inflorescences. With increasing doses of nitrogen application to the soil, the height of chrysanthemums, the size of their leaves and the length of the petals, the diameter and doubleness of the inflorescences increase. Also, the color of the leaves and inflorescences of chrysanthemums fed with nitrogen becomes more intense, and the plants in general are more decorative. However, the positive effect of nitrogen on the development of chrysanthemums is observed only with its optimal ratio with other nutrients (mainly phosphorus).

With a lack of nitrogen, chrysanthemum bushes are formed weak, with pale green leaves and small irregular inflorescences; they bloom with a strong delay. With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, this nutrient is used by plants again (that is, the upper growing part of the shoots "takes" nitrogen from the lower part of the plant). Then the lightened lower leaves on the shoots of chrysanthemums indicate a lack of nitrogen in the substrate.

Excess nitrogen also affects plants negatively: chrysanthemums grow weak, their leaves become dark green, juicy and fragile; over-fertilized plants bloom too late.

Nitrogen is characterized by a narrow range of optimal doses, therefore, I must reintroduce it in the form of several additional dressings (especially during the main vegetative growth of chrysanthemums).
It is best to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: chicken droppings, fermented grass, mullein infusion, vermicompost infusion, etc.

The positive effect of nitrogen on chrysanthemums is manifested only with a sufficient amount of phosphorus, which is especially important during the period of inflorescence formation. Phosphorus accelerates the flowering of chrysanthemums and increases plant resistance to diseases. With a lack of phosphorus, there is a strong delay in the growth and development of chrysanthemum bushes: plants bloom late, have small inflorescences; the leaves become small, acquire a light green color, and lose their elasticity. In the case of a severe lack of phosphorus, the lower leaves of the shoots dry out.

Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums

During regular plant inspections dead leaves on chrysanthemum bushes must be removed in a timely manner, since they are primarily affected by pests and diseases. It mainly affects chrysanthemums with aphids (most often - the so-called "bloody" aphids). Sometimes Indian chrysanthemums in the garden are annoyed by sparrows.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums, propagated by cuttings in the second half of April and in May, I grow without pinching. And if the cuttings of chrysanthemums were planted early (in winter and early spring, in February-March), then I pinch such plants to avoid premature flowering. Each pinch delays the flowering of chrysanthemums for 2-3 weeks.
For the varieties of chrysanthemums "Gazelle" and "V. Tereshkova ”I do the pinching no more than two times. The first time I pinch a young plant after rooting, at a height of about 15 cm. The second time I pinch a plant shoot when it reaches a height of 25 cm. I then use the cut tops of chrysanthemum shoots for reproduction.

In developing large-flowered chrysanthemums, I usually leave one shoot and one central bud in order to obtain highly decorative, large inflorescences. Sometimes I leave 2-3 shoots on a powerful bush (in this case, smaller inflorescences are formed on them).

The main way to obtain large chrysanthemum inflorescences is the timely removal of emerging lateral shoots and buds - pinching and pinning... If they are removed late, the main peduncle in the upper part of the shoot grows thin, and the inflorescence becomes smaller, which reduces the decorative effect of the plant.
I remove the lateral buds of large-flowered chrysanthemums carefully and as early as possible (as soon as possible, grab the lateral buds with your fingers, so as not to damage the remaining main bud).
Since plants of the same variety often develop unevenly, their buds are not formed simultaneously, with a difference of 10-15 days. Therefore, during the budding period, in order to timely remove the lateral buds, it is necessary to check the condition of the chrysanthemums several times, every 3-4 days.

Planting and transplanting large-flowered chrysanthemums

Large-flowered chrysanthemums of the Gazelle and V. Tereshkova "I grow in the open field until they bloom. Therefore, I plant the plants in the garden in such a way that later blooming chrysanthemums can be covered with a film or frames from the weather. This allows you to get a high-quality cut of chrysanthemums directly from the open field, without replanting plants.
Transplantation of chrysanthemum bushes of the Gazelle variety noticeably affects the quality of the inflorescences. In addition, flowers from transplanted bushes cost 2-3 times less in cut than inflorescences from non-transplanted bushes.

Sometimes I plant chrysanthemums in large pots, which I dig completely into the soil of the garden. In August, I remove the pots with plants from the ground and transfer them to a room or a greenhouse.At the same time, the root system of potted chrysanthemums is not disturbed, they bloom and stand in the cut much longer than "soil" plants.

Protecting large-flowered chrysanthemums in autumn

When I cover the large-flowered chrysanthemums blooming in the garden with a film in the fall from bad weather, I must also stretch the fabric over the plants (for this purpose, you can use a covering material of any brand). Otherwise, during the wind, when the film "flaps" under its gusts, then drops of condensate flying off the film will fall on the chrysanthemums. Large snow-white flowers of Gazelle chrysanthemums quickly lose their decorative effect and decay from water droplets hitting them, but Valentina Tereshkova chrysanthemums are not so afraid of dripping moisture.
At temperatures below +3 degrees, Gazelle chrysanthemums produce poor flower baskets, and the flowers begin to turn black. Therefore, I warm up the foil greenhouse with chrysanthemums in the freeze.
I water chrysanthemums abundantly in the greenhouse, but at the same time I try to keep the water out of the leaves.

Wintering of large-flowered chrysanthemums

Indian large-flowered chrysanthemums do not hibernate in the open field of regions with a cold climate, since they cannot withstand a long frosty winter. Therefore, you need to take care of their wintering: in the fall, the mother plants of large-flowered chrysanthemums have to be dug up and brought into storage for winter preservation.

If in the southern part of Belarus it is possible to leave large-flowered chrysanthemums for wintering in the open ground (but only with a very careful dry shelter), then in the central and northern parts of the republic it is very risky to do this. In the fall, I dig up the queen cells of chrysanthemums and store them in the winter at a positive temperature.

In order to preserve the existing highly decorative large-flowered chrysanthemums for further cultivation, I select the best plants during their flowering for mother plants.
High-quality mother plants have large flowers of the correct shape, beautiful leaves and a healthy look of the bushes in general; full-fledged plants form many strong cuttings.
The most valuable thing in the queen cells of chrysanthemums is the layers that have grown during the flowering of plants. ... In the future, these layers will be used for propagation of chrysanthemums by cuttings.

Winter storage of large-flowered chrysanthemums is the most crucial moment of their cultivation, which requires very precise implementation of these instructions.

After cutting the flowers, I cut off the queen cells of chrysanthemums, leaving the lower part of the shoots up to 10 cm long. I dig out the plants and very tightly put the rhizomes in deep boxes. From above I pour into the box a slightly wet mixture of peat and sand in equal proportions (so that only the tops of the layers remain at the top).

I leave boxes with queen cells of chrysanthemums in the greenhouse or on the veranda until the cold, do not water. I put the plants for storage only after the soil in the box with the mother liquors dries out significantly (the drier, the better).

Any room without constant lighting, with a temperature from -1 to +5 degrees, is suitable as a repository for large-flowered chrysanthemums. At this temperature, the rhizomes of chrysanthemums are preserved for sure, the plants do not start growing. Under such conditions, old roots of chrysanthemums do not take root during wintering, valuable cuttings are well preserved.

In winter, I do not water the queen cells of stored chrysanthemums in any case. If during the winter storage of the mother plants of chrysanthemums, the tops of their layers were eaten by rodents that managed to penetrate the storehouse (mice, rats), then there is no need to worry about damaged layers. They will not die from this, just then in the future the need to pinch the tops of the layers of chrysanthemums disappears.

Nedyalkov Stefan Fedorovich (Novopolotsk, Republic of Belarus) skyrider@tut.by
"Floriculture: Pleasure and Benefit"

All about chrysanthemum on the site

Flowers Olga Ravilova

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2017-06-14 Chrysanthemums are beautiful in any setting. Photo: Robin Carlson

Chrysanthemums are popular ornamental plants that bloom from August to November. Chrysanthemums give the autumn garden a special charm, when most of the flowers have already left for the autumn-winter rest.

Chrysanthemums belong to the Astrovye family. Like asters, chrysanthemum is a perennial plant whose stem becomes stiff by the end of the season, becoming tough. The most common are Indian and Chinese chrysanthemums. Most varieties of chrysanthemums come from Indian chrysanthemums.

Of course, in our country, chrysanthemum grows as a summer plant, grown in seedlings in the garden, or in pots and greenhouses, as a houseplant. The warm climate of hot countries makes it possible to propagate chrysanthemums by simply dividing the bush, which means that most of the theses of the article are irrelevant for flower growers in Asia and the Far East.

Decorativeness is the fad of chrysanthemum, as well as flowering in autumn. Yes, the vast majority of varieties bloom in October-November.

Chrysanthemum varieties are usually divided into two large groups: large-flowered and small-flowered. More than 1000 varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums are known, they inspire flower growers more than chrysanthemums with small flowers.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are more popular than small-flowered ones. Photo: Presbyterian Senior Care

Basically, chrysanthemums are subdivided by the signs of the structure of inflorescences:

• Anemoid chrysanthemums;
• Decorative chrysanthemums;
• Chinese chrysanthemums;
• Single, simple chrysanthemums;
• Peony chrysanthemums;
• Pompom chrysanthemums;
• Tubular chrysanthemums;
• Japanese chrysanthemums.

Single chrysanthemums have flowers with non-double inflorescences, and the rest are double.

Chrysanthemums are a suitable material for landscape design

Varieties of large-flowered chrysanthemums with white, pink, lilac, yellow, golden and bronze flowers are popular. Moreover, large-flowered chrysanthemums are grown in one stem, and small-flowered chrysanthemums are in the form of a bush or in a standard form.

Chrysanthemums even have decorative buds.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums derived from Chinese varieties are suitable for growing in the open field garden, as it is hardy enough to endure the winter.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums Chrysanthemums are propagated by cuttings. Photo: MissingHenryMitchell

To preserve all the hereditary characteristics of the parent plants, chrysanthemums are propagated vegetatively - by herbaceous cuttings.

Cuttings are cut from uterine chrysanthemums in February - March. Mother plants should overwinter at a temperature of +5 - 7 ° C. Healthy plants are selected for wintering, cutting off the stems at a height of 10-15 cm. Mothers overwinter in containers or pots of a suitable size. During wintering, the soil must be moistened occasionally.

Chrysanthemum cuttings continue until May, as the offspring grow on the queen cells. However, green cuttings of large-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums complete 20 April.

Before rooting, it is advisable to treat the slices of chrysanthemum cuttings with a growth stimulant. Photo: Views from the Garden

The cuttings are rooted in a peat-sand mixture or in sand, at a temperature of +12 - 14 ° C, for two to three weeks. When the chrysanthemum cuttings take root, they are transplanted into pots without drainage. The diameter of the pots is 7 cm. The soil should be light - a mixture of humus and turf in equal proportions. The pots are placed in a bright, cool place.

Chrysanthemum cuttings take root in 2-3 weeks

The transfer of large-flowered chrysanthemums is done in May, in pots with drainage, with a diameter of 11 cm. A mixture of humus and sod land (1: 2), with the addition of shavings, is favorable for chrysanthemums during this period. Small-flowered chrysanthemums do not pass, leaving in small pots before planting in open ground.

Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums in open ground Large-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in open ground directly in pots. Photo: Fresh Design Pedia

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in open ground directly in pots, after having made a transfer into pots with a diameter of 12-14 cm, in late May - early June.

If chrysanthemums are intended for cutting into bouquets, then you can plant them in open ground without pots, tying the stems to pegs about a meter long. The length of the peg is adjusted depending on the variety.

It is advisable to plant chrysanthemums in ridges, in four rows, with a row spacing of 25 cm. The pots are installed in recesses so that the edges are flush with the ground.

Chrysanthemum care

Caring for chrysanthemums is simple: watering, loosening, weeding, feeding and pinching:

• Chrysanthemums watered dailyif there is no rain. It is advisable to spray the plants with soft water, humidifying the air. It is not worth overmoistening the soil - chrysanthemums wither from excess water, leaves turn yellow, inflorescences wrinkle and develop poorly.
• Chrysanthemum feeding is performed two or three times per season... Use mineral fertilizers for flowers or slurry, depending on availability. They are fed in the form of fertilizing irrigation, under the root.
• Weeding necessary both between plants and directly in pots. In parallel with weeding, the soil is loosened in the aisles and in pots.
• Chrysanthemums desirable tie to pegsas you grow.
• Plants are regularly inspected for pests. Aphids and spider mites, without pity, are destroyed with drugs - insecticides.
• Pinching the side shoots helps shape the plantChrysanthemum grazing - a responsible operation for the care of plants, performed in June - August. Axillary shoots and lateral buds, near the apical flower bud, are removed with scissors or a sharp knife. The first apical bud is removed in all cases before the first transfer, and the strongest of the new developing shoots is left. The axillary shoots are broken out or cut out with a sharp knife, and the buds growing adjacent to the apical flower bud are removed with a sharp stick.

Back to the greenhouses

As the buds of chrysanthemums develop, when they begin to acquire color, the plants are transferred to greenhouses or greenhouses. Pots, before entering the greenhouse, are cleaned of soil, and plants from dried leaves.

Chrysanthemums of late varieties are transferred to greenhouses in September, due to autumn matinees, with unopened buds.

Greenhouses and greenhouses should be light and well ventilated to ensure abundant flowering. Moisture trapped in the opening buds of chrysanthemums in cold weather, both in open and closed ground, leads to decay.

Dampness and drops in greenhouses are also harmful to chrysanthemum buds, so the buds do their best to prevent moisture from entering.

If autumn is early, and the buds are poorly developed, the plants are installed in deep cleaned greenhouses, covering them with frames. During the day, greenhouses are well ventilated, and on warm days, the frames are removed.

Growing small-colored chrysanthemums Small-colored chrysanthemums will decorate any fence

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in open ground at the end of May. The distance between plants is 40 - 50 cm.

Caring for small-flowered chrysanthemums is similar to caring for large-flowered plants, with the exception of pinching and a garter to the pegs.

It is advisable to pinch the shoots once or twice a summer so that the plants branch out better. In the second half of August, as soon as a sufficient number of buds are formed, the plants are planted in 16-18 cm pots and set in deep greenhouses.

In the process of growing chrysanthemums, you have to protect them from pests and diseases. Chrysanthemums are harmed by: thrips, green and black aphids, nematodes. Chrysanthemums are sick with rust and powdery mildew. The greatest damage to chrysanthemums is caused by nematodes.

If nematodes attacked your chrysanthemums, then only quarantine and thorough disinfection of pots and growing areas: ridges, greenhouses, hotbeds, etc. will save you. The rest of the pests and diseases are eliminated in the working order.

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are planted in open ground at the end of May. The distance between plants is 40 - 50 cm.

Caring for small-flowered chrysanthemums is similar to caring for large-flowered plants, with the exception of pinching and a garter to the pegs.

It is advisable to pinch the shoots once or twice a summer so that the plants branch out better. In the second half of August, as soon as a sufficient number of buds are formed, the plants are planted in 16-18 cm pots and set in deep greenhouses.

In the process of growing chrysanthemums, you have to protect them from pests and diseases. Chrysanthemums are harmed by: thrips, green and black aphids, nematodes. Chrysanthemums are sick with rust and powdery mildew. The greatest damage to chrysanthemums is caused by nematodes.

If nematodes attacked your chrysanthemums, then only quarantine and thorough disinfection of pots and growing areas: ridges, greenhouses, hotbeds, etc. will save you. The rest of the pests and diseases are eliminated in the working order.

Garden chrysanthemum can rightfully be called one of the most beautiful autumn perennials, blooming until the frost and possessing a unique tart aroma. This beautiful flower brings a lot of light joy in the dark days of autumn. However, many summer residents in vain think that in the middle lane it can be grown only as an annual or indoor container plant. Next, you will learn about all the methods of reproduction, timing, rules for planting and caring for bush garden chrysanthemums in the open field.

Varieties and varieties of chrysanthemums

Conventionally, all chrysanthemums can be divided into 2 types:

As a rule, perennial Korean varieties that winter well (but better with additional shelter) are planted and grown in our gardens. And the most popular are spherical garden chrysanthemums (multiflora).

Large-flowered varieties are most commonly used for commercial purposes, i.e. for cutting and making bouquets, because they need warmer conditions, clearly not in the middle zone or the Urals and Siberia, where they simply freeze out.

Video: types and varieties of chrysanthemums

Videos: Indian and Korean

Breeding methods for chrysanthemums

Basically, garden chrysanthemums are propagated by dividing the bush or by cuttings, in other words, by vegetative methods. But often it is also grown from seeds.

By the way! Large-flowered and small-flowered (Korean) species reproduce identically.

Sowing seeds

Perennial chrysanthemums can be sown with seeds, but varietal characteristics will not be preserved when collecting planting material and re-sowing it. If you nevertheless decide to buy seeds, then it is better to first sow them for seedlings (in February-March), dive in the phase of two true leaves, and when the threat of return frosts has passed, plant them in the ground (or a pot). And then by the fall you will be able to get flowering bushes. Alternatively, you can try open field direct sowing in May-June.

Video: how to grow chrysanthemum seedlings from seeds

Dividing the bush

Once every 2-3 years, the root system of the garden chrysanthemum grows excessively, begins to degenerate, the flowers become smaller, so the plant should be rejuvenated, that is, divided.

Dividing the plant is quite simple: you need to carefully dig up the bushes and divide them into several copies (with your hands, pruning shears or even a shovel). Then place them in separate holes and shade them with a non-woven material from the sun (stick 4 sticks and throw a cover over them) so that they do not get burnt while they are being taken.

Video: transplanting chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

Cuttings

It is convenient to cut chrysanthemums during autumn pruning. To do this, you will need to cut, or better break off, 5-8 centimeter shoots (the flowers themselves must be cut off, and only a couple of leaves should be left), which can be rooted either in a glass of water or in a common container in a special substrate (from peat and sand or in a mixture of perlite with the same peat) and cover with a plastic bag to create a greenhouse effect.

When the plant has roots (after 2-3 weeks), they should be planted in separate containers. In winter, young seedlings should be kept in a cool place (+4 .. + 6 degrees) and do not forget to water if necessary. When planting cuttings in spring, it is advisable to shade them for the first time (2 weeks), for example, by making a canopy of spunbond.

Video: cuttings of chrysanthemums in the fall

Video: cuttings in spring

Advice! You can also cut chrysanthemums from the presented bouquet.

Video: how to root chrysanthemums from a bouquet - cuttings and the result

Planting dates for chrysanthemums

Depending on the method of reproduction, the timing differs when it is better to sow, transplant (divide) or cut chrysanthemums.

So,sow seeds chrysanthemums for seedlings optimally in early spring (even in February-March), or in open ground in May, when the ground warms up enough (but then flowering should be expected only next year).

Cut chrysanthemum bushes most convenient in autumn during regular pruning, but keeping them in winter is difficult enough, and they often die, therefore better do it all the same in the spring, survival rate in this case is much higher.

Dividing the bush and the transplant of chrysanthemums can be carried out both in the second half of spring, when the threat of age-related frosts has passed (in April-May), and in late summer - early autumn (in August-September), so that the bushes have time to take root in a new place before the cold snap.

How to plant chrysanthemums outdoors

In order to eliminate all problems with the growth and development of perennial garden chrysanthemums in the open field, you need to remember about choosing a suitable place, as well as soil for planting.

Landing place

To successfully grow chrysanthemums in the garden, it is very important to stay in the right place to plant. If possible, this should be the sunniest area in the country. The plant does not like constant drafts, but it does not like stagnant air either, so the place should be ventilated. It is optimal to choose more or less elevated areas, hills, slopes, since it is impossible to allow the root system to be constantly flooded with water.

Garden perennial chrysanthemum is ideal for creating living borders, that is, for decorating garden paths, as well as creating beautiful compositions around the house.

The soil

This flowering perennial will grow smoothly in loose (moisture-permeable) and fertile soil. In terms of acidity, the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. The optimal soil for planting garden chrysanthemums is well-drained loamy or sandy loamy soil.

If the soil is sandy, then the planting site should be well dug up and filled with compost or humus.

If your soil is heavy, moisture passes poorly (and its stagnation has a very negative effect on perennials), then you should make good drainage by pouring some sand on the bottom.

Direct landing

So you bought a bush (a seedling in a bag with soil) of garden chrysanthemum in the fall (or divided the mother bush, germinated cuttings), chose a suitable day (preferably cloudy), or early morning or late evening. It's time to plant him.

Step-by-step instructions for planting chrysanthemums in open ground:

1. Decide on a place, prepare a landing hole (usually 30-40 cm deep).
2. Drain as needed (put some sand on the bottom of the hole).
3. Place the bush, straighten the roots.
4. Cover with fertile soil and compact well so that the roots are in good contact with the ground.
5. Trim the bush 1/3 or even leave a small stump. Now it is important that the roots take root.
6. Water liberally.
7. Mulch with peat or humus.

Important! If you are planting several bushes at once, then the distance between them should be about 30-50 centimeters. Remember that the bushes are very overgrown.

Video: a method of planting chrysanthemums in the fall

Outdoor chrysanthemum care

Chrysanthemum can hardly be called an unpretentious plant, on the contrary, it requires constant care. Therefore, in order to get beautiful bushes, these perennial flowers must be watered, fed, shaped (cut and cut), transplanted and propagated (divided and cut) and covered for the winter.

Important! And tall, as a rule, large-flowered (but small-flowered chrysanthemums are also tall) chrysanthemums must also be tied to pegs so that they do not lie down or, even worse, do not break off.

Watering

The plant can be called moisture-loving, but it should not be waterlogged (in spring, natural moisture, as a rule, will be enough for it).

Advice! After planting (planting a rooted cuttings) or transplanting (dividing) chrysanthemums in the spring, young seedlings should be periodically watered moderately.

At the height of summer (June-July), a garden perennial requires abundant watering, since the process of bud formation occurs during this period. As soon as flowering begins (usually in August), watering should be reduced. With a lack of moisture, the stems of the plant will become woody and stop branching.

Important! Chrysanthemums must be watered exclusively at the root. Sprinkling the crown is prohibited. Of course, if possible, it is advisable to use rainwater or settled water, and loosen it after each watering so that a dry crust does not form.

Top dressing

Chrysanthemums are fed according to the standard scheme:

1. In early spring, nitrogen fertilizers are used to start the growth of green mass (for example, an infusion of mullein in a ratio of 1 to 10 or chicken droppings (1 to 15).
2. In summer, during budding with potassium-phosphorus (more potassium) fertilizers - for a more intense and lush flowering (for example, wood ash).
3. In autumn - phosphorus-potassium (more phosphorus). Phosphorus has a good effect on strengthening the root system, which is necessary during the preparation of the plant for wintering.

There are special complex fertilizers for chrysanthemums for the entire growing season.

And if you stillgrow roses, then this fertilizer will come in handy.

Note! Top dressing must be carried out exclusively after watering and only at the root, in no case falling on the leaves, otherwise the fertilizer can cause them burns.

Shaping, cutting and trimming

If you want to get spherical bushes of chrysanthemums, then they should do such a haircut in the spring. It is recommended to pinch the top (main shoot) every year after 5-6 leaves, when it reaches 10-12 centimeters. Likewise, the side shoots should be shortened. All these activities should be performed before budding begins.

By the way! Chrysanthemum multiflora grows independently in the form of a ball. It should only be pinched once, when 2 pairs of leaves appear on the shoots, then it will form itself.

If you are growing large-flowered chrysanthemums for cutting (for bouquets), then you should leave 2-3 stems on which large buds and inflorescences will appear. It is also important not to forget to pinch them, timely removing the shoots that appear from the leaf axils.

Video: the formation of a large-flowered chrysanthemum bush for sale

For the winter, in the small-flowered (Korean) variety, of course, the entire upper part is cut off and a small stump is left (about 10 centimeters).

Preparing for winter

Some growers are afraid that even their small-flowered chrysanthemum can freeze out in winter, therefore, in mid-autumn (October), the trunk circle should be covered with a thick 10 cm layer of peat or compost, and already at the end of autumn (November), cover the plant, for example, with spunbond or dry leaves, you can use hay, or even better spruce branches.

Note! It makes no sense to insulate and cover large-flowered chrysanthemums, since they do not hibernate in the open field. They need to be dug up and transferred to storage prior to spring disembarkation.

At the same time, Korean specimens can also simply be transplanted into pots and transferred to the basement or veranda for wintering, or you can also dig in a polycarbonate greenhouse at soil level and additionally cover them.

By the way! Read in detail about the autumn care of chrysanthemums, their preparation for winter (shelter and digging-storage)in this article.

Video: how to keep chrysanthemums in winter: the right shelter

Diseases and pests

One of the most common troubles that occurs with a chrysanthemum is the first appearance white bloom, and then altogether blackening and dying off of its leaves. All this indicates a disease of a garden perennialpowdery mildew... Frequent rains and, as a result, waterlogging, thickened plantings, temperature fluctuations are the most favorable environment for the development of this disease. To restore the plant to its former beauty, it should be sprayed a couple of times with preparations containing copper in its base (for example, copper sulfate or Bordeaux liquid).

Often attacks chrysanthemums aphids and thrips, in this case, you will need to treat garden perennials with one of the special insecticidal preparations, for example, "Aktara" or "Fitoverm".

Video: spherical chrysanthemums - planting, care and shelter

If you are nevertheless imbued with the idea of ​​planting and growing a bush garden perennial chrysanthemum in your summer cottage, focus on the features of care and its reproduction. And then you can amaze all your neighbors with the splendor of an autumn flower.

Video: features of the care and reproduction of bush chrysanthemums

From mid-summer until the very frost, many homesteads, summer cottages and front gardens are decorated with bright bushes of garden chrysanthemums. The plant blooms even when many flowers have already withered after the first frost. Even the most experienced gardeners are amazed at the variety of flower colors, types and shapes. You can learn about the varieties and characteristics of growing the "Queen of Autumn" by reading our article. And photos of chrysanthemums will help you choose the types of flowers suitable for the garden.

Varieties and varieties of garden chrysanthemums with photos

Garden chrysanthemum is a perennial plant whose height depends on the species and can be from 15 to 150 cm... Currently, a large number of varieties of chrysanthemums are known, which, according to some features and characteristics, are combined into groups.

The size of the inflorescences

Perennial chrysanthemums are divided into three groups according to the diameter of the flowers:

• small-flowered;
• mid-flowered;
• large-flowered.

Small-flowered or Korean plants can be simple and double. A large number of inflorescences grow on one bush with a flower diameter of 2-10 cm... The bushes themselves can reach a height of 25 to 120 cm. The leaves of the plant are in the form of oak leaves. Flowers are frost-resistant, undemanding to the composition of the soil and easy to care for. Their flowering begins in mid-September and continues until the very frost.

Mid-flowered or ornamental chrysanthemums can be grown not only for garden decoration, but also for cutting. They also grow well in pots at home. They can be used to decorate balconies, loggias and terraces. Ornamental shrubs grow up to 30-70 cm, and have a flower diameter of 10-18 cm.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are spectacular tall plants. The length of their stem can reach from 80 to 120 cm. They bloom in large flowers with a diameter of 10-25 cm. This type of chrysanthemum does not tolerate frost well. Only some of its varieties can winter outdoors. Such flowers are intended mainly for cutting into bouquets.

The shape and height of the bush

According to the shape and height of the bush, garden chrysanthemums are divided into three types, each of which has many varieties.

Tall. The stems of this type of garden chrysanthemum can be very tall and require supports such as frames, metal nets, or wooden pegs. Supports are installed during the planting of the bushes.Plants planted in a group can be used as a hedge. Most popular varieties tall garden chrysanthemums are:

1. "Amber Lady" - the plant is distinguished by golden inflorescences.
2. "Umka" - chrysanthemums with white flowers, the shape of which resembles a pompom.
3. "Daughter of Rosetta" is strewn with flat inflorescences with flowers of pink and white shades.

Medium-sized. Bushes growing up to 30-50 cm look very impressive both on a flower bed and along paths, fences, arbors. With their help, you can realize various design fantasies. The best varieties of medium-sized garden chrysanthemums are considered:

1. "Dawn" - the plant has a yellow-brown color, which is just right for the autumn mood.
2. "Dune" is a truly magical variety, the flowers of which can change their color during flowering. They bloom yellow-brown, and after a few days they turn yellow-gold.
3. "Lily" will help to add brightness to any composition with its dark crimson flowers.

Curb. Small plants grow up to only 30 cm. This type of chrysanthemum is considered one of the most beautiful garden flowers. Bushes of curb chrysanthemums have the shape of a ballcovered with small flowers. In this group, the most popular varieties:

1. "Barbara" is a plant with delicate lilac-purple flowers.
2. "Evening Lights" - the variety is distinguished by scarlet inflorescences that resemble a festive fireworks.
3. "Talisman" is strewn with bright beetroot-crimson flowers.

Flower shape

Garden chrysanthemums have five different kinds of flower shapes:

1. Pompom flowers are an assembly of tongues that are assembled into a ball that resembles a pompom.
2. Anemoid flowers consist of large petals, which are collected in one, two or three rows. The flowers themselves are small in size and very similar to anemone flowers.
3. Single-row and double-row inflorescences are bordered by flowers that look like tongues. In the center of such inflorescences, small tubular flowers grow. The border of flowers can be arranged in one or two rows.
4. Semi-double flowers consist of three rows of reeds that are arranged around a central flower.
5. Terry inflorescences are similar to semi-double ones, but their flowers are more luxuriant, since they are diverse in appearance and shape.

Garden chrysanthemums - planting and care

It is recommended to plant a plant during the period from late May to mid-June... Until autumn, the bushes will have time to take root and get stronger. And then they will not be afraid of any winter frosts.

Landing features

Chrysanthemums love sunny areas. The plant requires a lot of light to set flower buds. Even in partial shade, chrysanthemums will not bloom.

The soil must be rich in organic matter. Therefore, during digging, one bucket of manure, compost or peat must be added to one square meter of soil. You don't need to add more organic matter, otherwise only leaves will grow rapidly on the bush, and the plant will bloom with very small flowers.

When planting a garden chrysanthemum, it is recommended:

1. For large bushes, the distance between the holes should be at least 50 cm, and for small bushes - 25 cm.
2. It is recommended to add drainage or sand to each hole.
3. When planting, the plant cannot be deeply deepened into the ground.
4. Near large, tall bushes, you must immediately install a support.
5. The leaves of the plant can be sprayed with Epin to help it adapt better. "Kornevin" is also suitable, with a solution of which the bush is watered.
6. If frosts are still expected, then the young bush should be covered with nonwoven material at night.

Care rules

When caring for a garden chrysanthemum, special attention should be paid to watering it, since the plant depends on soil moisture level... You need to water the bushes in a timely manner, otherwise the flower will throw off all the buds.

The amount of water for watering one bush depends on its characteristics.Plants with small, stiff leaves can be watered less frequently than shrubs with soft, large leaves that evaporate a lot of moisture.

Chrysanthemums respond well to feeding. For this, complex mineral fertilizers containing magnesium and potassium, and organic fertilizers in the form of humates are used. During the active growth of green mass, the plant is fed with nitrogen.

Caring for garden chrysanthemums involves forming a bush. It is necessary regularly pinch and trim... For the first time, the top of the plant is removed when the central shoot grows to 10 cm. After a while, when the lateral shoots grow up to 10 cm, they also pinch the crown. After that, the bush grows to bloom.

During the period when the chrysanthemum blooms, faded and wilted buds should be regularly removed from its bush. This way the flowering period can be extended.

If you want to get large beautiful flowers, you can make a total pruning of side shoots. As a result, only one stalk and one peduncle will remain on the bush. All the forces of the plant will go to the formation and growth of the flower.

Winter garden chrysanthemum care

In order for a plant planted in the garden to bloom as beautifully and profusely next year, you need to make sure that it overwinters well.

In frosty winters even cold-resistant varieties require shelter... Therefore, after the end of flowering, the stems of the bushes are cut to the ground. The plant is huddled and covered with fallen leaves.

Chrysanthemums with large flowers are afraid of freezing temperatures. Therefore, they need to be dug out together with an earthen lump and planted in a suitable container. Plants are stored before planting in the spring in a room with a temperature of 0-5 degrees. Caring for them consists in rarely watering an earthen coma, which should not dry out.

Diseases and pests of perennial chrysanthemums

With proper care, the plant is rarely affected by pests and practically does not get sick. However, the bushes need to be inspected regularly in order to identify the problem as soon as possible and begin to treat the plant. The threat to garden chrysanthemums is posed by:

1. Spider mite is a pest that sucks juice from a plant. It can be found by the cobweb formations on the back of the sheet. If the leaves of the chrysanthemum turn gray-brown, begin to darken and fall off, then, most likely, a tick has settled on it. The plant must be treated with special chemicals.
2. Leaf nematodes - the disease is manifested by deformation of the leaves, and their darkening between the veins. In this case, you need to change the soil and cut off the damaged areas.
3. Verticillosis is an infectious disease that spreads through the roots. Therefore, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither from the bottom of the bush. In the initial stages, spraying with biological products will help.
4. Powdery mildew first affects the leaves and buds, on which a white bloom appears. The affected parts of the plant are removed, and the bush itself is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

Reproduction of bush chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum can propagate in three ways:

• dividing the bush;
• seeds;
• by cuttings.

Dividing the bush

The bushes can be divided in the spring, but only after the threat of frost has passed. In order for chrysanthemums to bloom better, it is recommended to divide their bushes every three years. To do this, the plant is carefully dug up and divided into several small bushes. The roots of the plant will need to be cut. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered.

Seed reproduction

In open ground sowing is done in May... For each future plant, a separate hole is dug, the distance between which should be 25 cm. 3-4 seeds are buried in one hole. For the first time, chrysanthemums should bloom at the end of summer.

Cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is the easiest way, since chrysanthemums take root quickly and well.

1. A stalk with 3-4 leaves is cut under a leaf pattern. Its length should be 6-8 cm.
2. The container is filled first with peat, and then with sand, into which the stalk sits.
3. The soil is sprayed and the box is covered with glass.

The rooting temperature should be between 13-15 degrees. When the roots appear, the cuttings will need transplant into separate pots... Young bushes are planted in open ground only when frost has passed.

Observing the rules of planting and caring for garden chrysanthemums, you can achieve a beautiful and spectacular flowering during half summer and almost all autumn. Any part of the garden where the "Queen of Autumn" will grow will become a luxurious decoration of the garden.

Bush chrysanthemum

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For a long time, chrysanthemums have attracted increased attention and delighted people. It is the leading flower crop for the withering autumn garden. A huge number of different varieties of chrysanthemums allows you to choose a plant for every taste.

Large chrysanthemums are especially good at cutting and are used to create colorful autumn compositions. Their huge multi-colored flowers on tall, strong stems keep fresh in a vase for a long time. The late bloom and excellent decorative properties make these majestic flowers especially popular.

Chrysanthemums with small flowers usually finish flowering when the heavy frost sets in in October. And large-flowered chrysanthemums in greenhouses are not afraid of cold weather and continue to delight us with their beauty and bright colors. But not all of our readers have greenhouses, so they are interested in whether it is possible to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums in the open field in the middle lane and even in Siberia.

Yes it is possible. We will tell you how to do this in this article.

1. Video: How to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums
2. Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums in the garden
3. Caring for large-flowered chrysanthemums
4. Chrysanthemum protection in autumn

Video: How to grow large-flowered chrysanthemums

Planting large-flowered chrysanthemums in the garden

Large-flowered chrysanthemums can be planted outdoors before they bloom. They need to be planted so that then the plants can be covered with foil and frames. This will allow you to grow gorgeous large chrysanthemums without replanting.

Transplanting negatively affects the quality of the flowers. Flowers from transplanted plants are 2-3 times less in a vase than flowers from non-transplanted bushes.

You can also plant chrysanthemums in large pots that dig completely into the soil in the garden. And in September, before the onset of frost, the pots are removed from the ground and transferred to a greenhouse or other room. At the same time, the root system of plants is not disturbed, so they bloom profusely and stay cut longer.

Outdoor care for large-flowered chrysanthemums

In order to get beautiful large chrysanthemum flowers in the fall, in the summer, during their active growth, it is necessary to provide them with proper care, regular watering and feeding. In the beginning, young plants are often watered, being careful not to wet the leaves.

One of the most important nutrients for the development of large-flowered chrysanthemums is nitrogen. It significantly affects the height of the bush, the size and color of inflorescences and leaves. The more nitrogen in the soil, the taller and larger the plants will be, and the more intense the color.

However, there must be a balance with other nutrients, especially phosphorus. Phosphorus accelerates flowering and increases disease resistance.

It is useful to feed chrysanthemums with natural organic fertilizers: mullein infusion, chicken droppings, vermicompost infusion or fermented grass.

Regularly inspect large-flowered chrysanthemums, remove dead leaves, as they can be affected by diseases and pests.

Cuttings planted in late April and May are grown without pinching.And plants planted in early spring or winter are pinched to avoid blooming too early. The first pinching is carried out after rooting at a height of 15 cm, the second - upon reaching 25 cm.

To obtain highly decorative large chrysanthemums, pinching and pinching are used - side shoots and buds are removed. Usually one shoot and one main bud are left.

Chrysanthemum protection in autumn

In autumn, large-flowered chrysanthemums should be covered with foil. It is also better to stretch the fabric under the film to protect against dripping condensation, which can spoil the decorative effect of some varieties. Water the plants in the greenhouse abundantly, avoiding water getting on the leaves.

Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums cannot winter outdoors in the harsh northern regions. Therefore, for the winter, the mother liquors need to be dug up and removed to storage.

After cutting the flowers, their mother liquors are cut off, leaving shoots 10 cm long. The plants are dug up and placed in deep boxes. The top of the box is sprinkled with wet peat and sand in equal proportions so that only the tops of the layers are visible.

The boxes can be left in the greenhouse or on the veranda until the cold weather, then when the soil dries up, they are removed for storage. A dark room with a temperature of about -1 to +5 degrees is suitable.

Klabukova Tatiana